Making tiles at home. We find the territory near the house, or how to properly put the paving slabs with your own hands. Production of square tiles using plastic form

Laming - very popular building material. However, natural stone is quite expensive because it is difficult to process. Therefore, often natural mineral is replaced with artificial stone based on cement binders. Such material is more often called the sidewalk tiles. You can buy it in many places, for example, the paving slabs manufacturer /Mos-Bruschhatka.ru is characterized by an attractive price and good quality.

And you can make paving slabs with your own hands. It is so easy to make it that it is capable of doing almost everyone that some is done, making tiles from artificial stone, including for sale.

This requires only a room, a type of shed or garage, and the simplest vibrationtol. It is good to have such a luxury as a concrete mixer, but the shovel with the trough is also suitable. Raw materials - cement, sand, plasticizer, and if necessary, dye.

The most important additive in the formulation of paving slabs - plasticizer. It has the following effect on the technological process and the quality of the final product:

Eliminates cracking tile when drying;

Increases plasticity and prevents decrease in cement mixture;

Increases the frost resistance and strength of the finished tile;

Gives the product some water-repellent properties.

In addition, with a plasticized mixture, it is sometimes possible to work without vibrostol.

These additives, as a rule, are on sale in companies specializing in the supply of raw materials for the production of reinforced concrete structures. The most famous brands of plasticizers for concrete - "Superpalaist C-3" or Chinese brands A, B or C. But instead of industrial preparations, some detergents are quite suitable. For example, cheap liquid soap, which is sold in business stores by 5 liters canister, crushed outbuilding soap, shampoo or dishwashing liquid.

One of the following substances is often used, the amount is given by 12 kg of cement (bucket):

2 tbsp. l. (with a slide) washing powder,

2 tbsp. l. liquid soap;

2 h. L. dishwashing liquid.

Not bad as a plasticizer, a greased lime works. Its proportions are selected approximately from the calculation of 1 part on 6 parts of the cement, but the optimal ratio is preferably selected by the experimental way. Such a additive protects products from cracking, makes them smooth, smooth, resistant to sharp temperature differences. It should, however, consider that lime is incompatible with other types of plasticizers.

There are also semi-medal additives, such as egg protein, used allegedly ancient builders in the construction of structures with special strength. Now it does not apply, but no one prohibits experimenting if there is such a desire.

Forms for pouring paving slabs.

They can be purchased in the store. Here are the estimated durability of forms by the number of castings depending on the material from which they are made:

Polyurethane - up to 100;

Plastic - up to 250;

Rubber - up to 500.

Note: Despite the fast wear, polyurethane is good in that it is easy to formulate, so designers creating their own products is most interesting. And two-component polyurethane compositions now do not purchase a problem. But do not forget that for casting a sufficient number of tiles, you will need not one dozen of the same forms, otherwise this process will delay quite long.

Before filling the cement mixture, it is advisable to lubricate the frozen casting from them easier to pull out. Special emulsion for these purposes is on sale, but it is easier to prepare it yourself in accordance with the following recipe:

3 liters of heated water;

A glass of engine oil or workout;

50-60 ml of liquid soap.

A well-stirred tool is applied with a brush thin layer on the inner surface of the shape, trying to prevent the puddles at its bottom.

Approximate recipes for paving slabs.

The components of the simplest solution:

Sand - 30 kg;

Plasticizer - 100 g;

Portland cement is not lower than M-500 - 15 kg;

Water is about half the volume of cement.

Solution using granite crumbs:

Portland cement is not lower than M-500 - 10 kg;

Sand - 15 kg;

Small granite crushed stone - 15 kg;

Plasticizer - 100 g;

Water to half from cement volume.

Instead of granite, small gravel is quite suitable. In addition to these components, it is possible to add up to 1 kg / m3 solution of special reinforcing polyamide, basalt or glass fibers used in the manufacture of foamybrobeton. The painted tile is obtained by adding pigments, according to the instructions on the specific view of the dye. To obtain a uniform painting, the solution must be mixed thoroughly.

Casting paving slabs with their own hands. Step-by-step instruction.

First, the forms are poured to half, then 3-5 minutes are sealing on the vibrotole. It is necessary so that the bottom - the front side of the tile spilled well, and it does not have shells from possible air bubbles. During the operation of the vibrostol, the solution is attached to the top.

The flooded forms are moved to a pre-prepared smooth surface, covered with a film and leave at least a couple of days. After hardening, the tile is taken out of the form and the next 10 days are stored under the film. Further, in order to gain strength, withstand at least less than a month.

If desired, even more increase strength, the tile is reinforced with an iron grille stacked in shape before filling. In addition, there is an ironing process that increases the surface hardness, for which the non-dry, but already solidized tiles sprinkle with dry portland cement and evenly rub.

Production of paving slabs (blocks), all the procedures for video.

Make such a facing material as a ceramic tile, with your own hands possible. Production of ceramics at home can be organized using plastic and silicone forms. They are sold in a wide enough assortment in garden and building stores.

Modern housing is impossible to imagine without tiled cladding. And ceramics, with their own hands made and painted, will become a real decoration and in the kitchens, and in the bathrooms, and even as an element of decor in the rooms. Those who are not afraid to independently make the required number of ceramics, the technique of making such a coating at home is coming to the rescue.

Decorative tile can be done under stone. Imitation is subject to any variety of natural stone. Such material will be most realistic to remind the natural analogue. How to make a tile imitating a stone? In the simplest embodiment, a gypsum powder is used with the addition of fillers and dyes, which form a unique picture for each finished product. But it will not be ceramics.

What is this article

Why make ceramics do it yourself

The tile in the form of an artificial decorative stone can be ceramic. The homemade tile has advantages over finishing with natural materials. The main plus of decorative ceramics made under the stone is its value, which is significantly lower than the cost of natural analogues. The components used in the manufacture make the tile are lighter than natural material. For decorative decoration, ceramics made under the brick is perfect.

In the question of how to make a tile for their needs, there are no restrictions for fantasy. It can be decorated as you like. For example, the kitchen can be decorated with ceramic finish with the image of still lifes. In the bathroom you can "settle" the marine inhabitants, and in the nursery there will be a bizarre patterns or fabulous motifs. The tile under the stone will look great in the living room, hallway, around the doorways. This finishing material will perfectly complement the design everywhere where its use is appropriate.

Such a universal finishing material made by their own hands will not only enrich and diversify the interior, but also will ensure significant savings. Despite the fact that the tile made with their own hands is less durable than factory products, with proper care, it is capable of listening to more than a dozen years, pleased with the original, absolutely unique design. These grounds are enough to ensure that it is desirable to independently make ceramics to cover small sections of walls, tracks, openings, etc.

What kind of hand made is different from the factory

For many, the idea that the manufacture of the tile is possible only using complex technological equipment, and therefore, in domestic conditions, it is unrealistic to make its tile. But this is not true. Of course, with independent manufacture of ceramics, the technology differs from the factory.

The stages of the handicraft manufacturer of tiles include:

1. Clay clay.
2. Shaping.
3. Drying.
4. Firing in a special oven.
5. Application of glaze.
6. Re-burning.

How to make ceramic tiles in the right amount? In domestic conditions, a sufficient number of forms will be required. The more forms will be purchased, the faster the process of manufacturing material for coating will go. It is important to take into account that the production of one tile will take about 2 days. The feed tile can be extracted from the form only after this period. Thus, the shape use cycle provides one product obtaining every 2 days.

How to choose clay

Tile tiles can not be made from any clay. It is fundamentally taken into account the plasticity of the chosen raw materials, because it will not be possible to make high-quality tiles without it. Clay can be lowlastic and plastic. It can also be called skinny and fat. To determine how much clay is plastic, it is enough to take a little piece, roll out the sausage from it and stretch it out. If it is good, it means that the raw material has sufficient plasticity.

For the manufacture of the tile, it is recommended to choose clay with an average plasticity indicator or not very "fatty" raw materials. The best option will be the average glorustful clay from which the strong tile will turn out. In the roasting process, such a tile will not "break." Clay must be wet. Before use, it needs to be given to be searched in the bag, eliminating the evaporation of water. In the structure of the uncomfortable clay there are pores with air, which reduces its plasticity and impairs binding properties.

How to mold the tile

Step-by-step instructions for self-making of the tile is not distinguished by complexity. Production of ceramic tiles start with molding:

1. Clay is laid in forms and tightly tamper. It is necessary to do so that the edges of the shape and the product coincide.
2. The excessive amount of clay should be removed, otherwise the decorative tile after drying will have very sharp edges. When you try to repel them can occur in the tile.
3. The drying of clay should take so much time as needed for its complete solidification. It is possible to determine this by changing the color of the material: a sufficiently angry clay will become significantly lighter, which will be a sign of evaporation excess moisture from the tile. As soon as it happened, it turned out a semi-finished product called raw.

Despite the fact that the raw on the view is quite durable, when tapping it can crumble. At this stage, you can still change anything. It is enough just to throw raw in a container with a wet clay so that it screamed the water, sphuming and again became suitable for use.

The next step is a firing, which changes all the physical properties of clay and no alterations will already be possible.

How the root is held

If it is planned to manufacture floor tiles at home without glazes, then just one firing will be performed. If after the first firing it is assumed to cover the plates with icing, then the second firing stage will be required.

Facing tile is burned at a temperature not exceeding 1000 ° C. The first firing is called biscuit. Its result will be obtaining a porous structure of the material, which will ensure the absorption of the desired number of glaze at the second stage. That is how basically make tiles on the floor with your own hands.

The second firing is performed at a similar temperature, which will ensure a sufficient degree of crying the glaze. When creating an outdoor tile with your own hands, it is better not to make a glaze, as it is very slippery, which is unsafe, especially in the bathroom. Tile on the wall most often make with a glassy coating.

In the hiring process, the tile gives shrinkage. It can be essential. That is why the tile at home must be made with a quantitative reserve so that the finished material is enough for cladding a certain surface. The number of spare products can be defined by eye, because it will be difficult to make an accurate calculation. In addition, it is necessary to provide for possible slaughter and cracking of products in the process of cladding.

What to use for firing

Some skeptics argue that in domestic conditions it is impossible to reach a temperature close to 1000 ° C. But for the manufacture of ceramics may well be enough and 900 ° C. And such a value can provide a muffle furnace.

For biscuit firing, the temperature must be from 850 ° C. It was then that the remnants of moisture evaporate from the tile and it becomes a small-cut, like a biscuit.

At this stage you can stop if the tile is designed for laying on the floor. After such firing, the tile becomes sufficiently solid and strong. When creating a tile on the wall with your own hands, when it is required to obtain cladding in the form of a tile with a smooth surface that imitates a natural stone or some drawing, additional processing will be required. Past one step of filling ceramics without glazes is referred to as terracotta. If you need to get a majolica, then the second firing of ceramics will be required to form a catering.

How to paint tiles

Making a tile is not all. It should externally match the planned design. To do this, you will need to master some additional decoration techniques so that the drawing itself is done unique.

How do ceramics with a pattern?

One way is the painting on ceramics. This is a fairly simple method, allowing the original appearance to give tiles. For tile design, you can also use decoupage technique.

The tile is rarely made without drawing. Coloring self-made tile can be taken with decoupage technique. If you correctly choose the materials, it will turn out a fairly strong coating that will be able to resist damage. Such a tile will serve for a long time.

The phased plan of action consists of several steps. First of all, you need to choose a suitable napkin motive. What makes it choose from? For example, for the kitchen, it can be a fruit basket, wine or floral motifs, a landscape, etc. The appearance of the tile, made with their own hands for coloring, will be better if the motive covers the entire surface.

If multi-layer napkins, then only the top layer is required for decoupage. When wetting napkins are stretched, so it will be necessary to process them with a certain method. The napkin should be laid out the pattern up on a flat surface. After that, it must be covered with hair lacquer, cover with parchment and stroke a warm iron. Such a procedure will allow the napkin to preserve the form.

How to apply drawing

At the next stage, the prepared tile is degreased with alcohol or detergent. Then the processed motive lay onto the stationery file face down and shake to a thin flowing of water for wetting. After this excess water merge, and the napkin is spreads. Next file plays on the tile. A soft rag is taken and with a slight pressure, the surface is smoothed. The file is neatly removed, the napkin should remain on the surface of the tile.

If bubbles and folds were formed, they should be removed using a fan brush, moving from the center to the edges. It is important not to press too much to not break the paper. After a few minutes, the napkin should be secured by PVA glue. To apply glue, again, you should use a fan brush. Finished work should be cooked until it does not dry.

Then the aerosol can with a car lacquer and the surface of the tile is covered with a thin layer of means, which must then be completely dry. If during operation the napkin was accidentally reliated, it is possible to prevent the corresponding section by acrylic paints. Similarly, you can proceed in the event that the motive of insufficient size was used. In such a case, you can grow the transition from the pattern to the rest of the surface or to draw shadow in gray tones. After graduating, the surface is also covered with a layer of varnish.

Colorful facing for the kitchen or bathroom is ready.

The paving concrete tile today is very often used to lad out garden tracks, sidewalks, for paving areas, car parks. Promotes the attractive appearance of the tile, its high quality and strength. How to make paving slabs at home?

The tile has gained great popularity due to high quality and attractive appearance.

Equipment for the production of own tiles

To independently make paving slabs, you need to prepare all the desired equipment in advance:

1. Concrete mixer is needed in order to highlight the solution, since its composition does not allow you to do it manually. The volume of such a concrete mixer, allowing the tile itself, depends on what amount of solution will be required. For the summer cottage, the volume is usually required no more than 300 liters, but if manufacturing is planned for sale, you should take care of large volumes.

Remember that, the greater the volume of the concrete mixer, the smaller the cost of the liter of concrete will be.

1. Vibrotol is a special equipment that resembles an ordinary table with a tabletop on springs. When the motor is turned on, its surface begins to vibrate, allowing concrete to acquire the necessary properties. The solution prepared independently is stacked by the forms, after which it is processed on the surface of this table.
2. Today you can purchase forms for casting various configurations, preference is better to give products with thick walls.

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Preparation of forms

To make paving slabs, you need to use special forms that can be the most varied. If you make a paving concrete only for yourself, you can do with simple homemade forms. They can be done by itself using a wooden formwork or silicone. Such forms do not differ in exquisite attributes, but if you try, their quality will not give up purchased.

If you need that the tile takes the specific dimensions, and there is no time and experience with the manufacture of forms, you can purchase special plastic forms offered today in a large assortment. The cost of such products is small, so they will not cause a strong impact on the budget. Concrete itself in such purchased forms will dry faster, its surface turns out to be smoother and smooth.

Immediately before working for casting form, you must smear them with your own hands using a special composition. This is done so that the surface of the product is smoother and tile easily came out of the form. If during vibrating a solution is properly distributed over the surface, then the tile is high-quality.

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Composite ingredients

Even independently at home, you can make a very high quality and incredibly beautiful color concrete tile, with which you can lay out a garden track and platforms near the house. We are accustomed that the surface of concrete has a rather boring gray color, which is not distinguished by attractiveness. But with the help of special dyes, you can even make a bright and attractive tile of bright red, yellow, blue, green colors.

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Proportions and secrets of manufacturing

The number of ingredients must be selected very carefully. The proportions of water will still touch slightly lower, but the amount of plasticizer should not exceed half a percent of the total mass. If 40 liters of the concrete solution independently prepare, then it will have to take 20 g of such a plasticizer. But it is impossible to add it in a dry form how it is sold in stores. Plasticizer should be dissolved in water.

A pigment dye is used to dye the future tile in the desired color. It is necessary only to take specifically for this dyes, their content in the composition should be from two percent of the total ingredients (only in a dry form).

It is with a dye that one trick of manufacture is connected. The fact is that pigments are very expensive, and many are trying to reduce the production of material by adding the minimum amount of dye. But in this case, the result will be dubious. Such a tile after a couple of years will completely lose its color, it will become unattractive and dim. And adding a large number of pigments will significantly increase the cost of products.

You can solve such a problem and increase the strength of the tile by one very simple method: casting is produced in two layers. At first, concrete is poured with a large dye content, immediately after that, the usual colorless concrete fills up to the edges. Thus, a two-layer product is obtained, the strength of which is higher than the rest of the concrete, but the cost is lower than for monolithic colored tiles.

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Production by vibration

You can start the production of tiles for paving, after all forms are prepared for work, that is, lubricated. The surface of the concrete mixer is also recommended to be slightly moistened before mixing the ingredients, but the amount of water for the solution should be carefully monitored. It is worth adding about thirty percent of the liquid more, as a concrete mix will lose its strength that is so necessary for tiles.

The solution itself should be wet only by half, reminding consistency wet soil. Even if it seems to you too dry, it is impossible to add water, because when you get a mass in the vibrationtole, it will acquire all its necessary characteristics. It is this circumstance that is a feature of the manufacture of vibrating methods.

So how much water should be? Experts recommend to take about thirty percent of fluid less than the total volume of cement. So, three buckets of the selected cement should take only two buckets of water. It is such a composition that the walls of concrete mixtures are moistened: mixed thoroughly very hard, so do not even blow it to do it manually.

The process of preparation of a mixture for tiles with their own hands is as follows: Equipment turns on, after which water is poured without plasticizers and dyes. After that, a portion of cement is added, the solution must resemble an emulsion, the so-called cement milk with stirring. At this time, the screening is added, after stirring to homogeneous mass - plasticizers and dyes. The solution is required to mix until the mass becomes homogeneous and attractive to the appearance. After that, you can turn off the concrete mixer, spread the concrete in the mold and start processing on the vibrationtole.

It is difficult to imagine a household plot without tracks laid out by concrete tiles, which has been becoming increasingly popular lately. Paving slabs with their own hands can be made by any person, not even possessing skills in construction work. The manufacturer's algorithm is quite simple and does not require expensive equipment and materials. Pavement tile, made with your own hands, as a material for tracks, alleys and parking spaces for cars, is finding favorably from asphalt, concrete or gravel.

The bulk (gravel) tracks are not very comfortable in use, asphalt requires the use of special equipment, and the concrete involves the use of reinforcement and pre-prepared formwork. The production of sidewalk tiles at home will allow you to significantly save money and give your site a unique appearance.

Required tools

During the production of concrete tiles, two methods are used: vibrating and vibratingressing. The latter method requires the use of expensive equipment (vibropress) and is acquitted mainly for commercial purposes. The production technology of paving slabs by vibrolying is most suitable for home production. In this case, you will need:

• Concrete mixer (mechanical or electric), which is often already available in the farm in many homeowners.
• In the absence of a concrete mixer, you can do with a construction mixer or an electric door with a special nozzle and any capacity (pelvis, a trough, part of a plastic barrel) suitable volume, which will be needed for the preparation of the solution.

• Vibrotol, which can be bought or making yourself.
• Forms for tiles.
• Taste or selection of blades, brush and bucket.

Important! How to safely make paving slabs at home - for this you need to use individual protective equipment: rubber gloves, safety glasses and respirator!

Making vibrostol with your own hands

How to make a device for vibrolying yourself? The easiest way to manufacture vibrationtola is the use of an old washing machine, on top of which the sheet of chipboard, fiberboard or MDF suitable size, with racks or bars fixed along the edges. Include a typewriter in the "Fat" mode and the vibrotol you make already functions. Safety will not allow billets to fall from the table during the vibration. The efficiency and productivity of such an installation is quite suitable in order to make paving slabs at home.

Its vibrationtol can be made from the usual sharpened, which, as a rule, is always available in the farm, or any other electric motor of suitable power. Wooden shield is made, it is placed on several car tires. With the help of bolts in the center of the shield, it sharpened at the bottom. We install a heavy metal disk with a displaced center (easy to make the desired size from the cover from the pans). The photo will help you figure out the details.

The device for the vibration process to make paving slabs with your own hands, ready to use. The process of dismantling the design will not be a lot of work and does not take much time.

Manufacturing technology

The entire process of manufacturing paving slabs can be divided into several steps, each of which is equally important and affects the quality of finished products. The production of tiles is not too laborious and tiring, and perhaps even gives you pleasure.

Preparation of forms

How to make paving slabs and while saving money? You can make shape with your own hands at home from wood, polyurethane or sheet metal.

Wooden forms are manufactured on the principle of formwork. For the bottom of the container, it is convenient to use wooden bars for sides. Billets are bonded with each other with metal corners and screws. But this method allows you to make forms only in the form of simple geometric shapes.

To make the sheet metal form you will need a welding machine. If you already have it, then such a way will create the most durable containers for casting a paving.

A very economical solution is to use food containers of suitable sizes and volumes. Plastic drinking water bottles (5 or 10 liters) can be successfully used for self-making square, rectangular and round forms. Gently cutting off the bottom, we get a finished shape.

Making a polyurethane forms for paving concrete tiles homemade is quite difficult and a lot of time will take it. A sample is taken as the basis (ready tile or paving, a piece of boards, plaster or metal blank). A formwork is manufactured from the undergraduate material (plywood or solid cardboard) greater than the sample sample by 10-15 mm. A two-component polyurethane compound is poured into the formwork and sample falls there. Drying process usually takes about 24 hours. Then the sample is neatly retrieved, and then the finished form is also removed from the formwork.

But if you do not have time and the desire to independently make forms for paving slabs, then you can purchase them in building stores. There is a wide variety of product data from plastic, rubber and polyurethane of various configurations.

In order for further work and the process of the platform, it is difficult to fill the form of a form of a form containing fat, with a brush or spray gun. A vegetable oil, a solution of economic soap or a special liquid can be used as a lubricant (for example, Tectol SuperCast ES 100).

Important! It is impossible to apply a liquid with a thick layer - this can lead to the formation of irregularities, pores and shells on the surface of the finished product.

Cooking mortar for filling forms

According to the technology of manufacturing concrete paving slabs at home for the production of 1 m² of about 4-5 cm thick, you will need:

• 20 kg of cement M500 brand (in extreme cases, M400);
• 30 kg of sainted sand;
• 30 kg of fine rubble or gravel (the size of fractions from 3 to 8 mm);
• plasticizer (for example, MasterGlenium 51; 0.6% of the mass of cement), which increases the frost resistance, facilitating the mixing process of the mixture and accelerating drying;
• 0.3-0.5 kg of reinforcing fiber (polypropylene fibra), which significantly increases strength, and as a result of service life;
• 700 grams of powder dye (quantity depends on the desired color saturation) if you want to make paving slabs of various shades;
• 15-17 liters of water, with a plasticizer dissolved in it.

The sequence of preparation of the mixture is as follows:

• carefully sifting sand;
• we mix sand with cement;
• add small gravel and fibrovolok;
• in small portions, we pour water, continuing to constantly mix.

The consistency of the mixture should be quite thick, but at the same time easily spreading in shape. The sidewalk solution is completely ready for use.

Attention! If you are strictly observed the technology and the proportions of the preparation of the mixture, the paving slabs will not give way to the factory samples with its high-quality characteristics.

If you wish to make color tiles, powder dye should be added at the initial stage, mixing it with sand. You can make staining and on the finished tile with the help of a collapse, since it allows you to evenly apply paint.

Tampering mass and original drying of products in forms

We place the prepared and blurred forms on the vibrotole, fill in them with a ready-made mixture (excess can be removed by a trowel) and begin the process of vibration, which lasts exactly as much as it is necessary to completely remove air (emptiness) from the solution (approximately 5-10 minutes).

After the concrete mixture was rambling, the products in the forms we remove into a dry place under the canopy and cover the polyethylene film to prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture. Preliminary drying of paving slabs takes 1-2 days, provided that the air temperature is at least 15 ° C.

Removing products and final drying

After the initial drying, the finished products carefully knock out the rubber hammer of the forms on the pre-prepared soft surface (for example, a tourist rug or an old blanket). To facilitate the formation process of the form for 2-3 minutes, it is possible to omit in the container with hot water with a temperature of about 45-50 ° C.

Then put the workpiece into the dry and sun-protected space for one or two weeks (the longer, the better).

The whole cycle is repeated repeatedly until you make the required amount for your project. Now you understand that the manufacture of paving slabs at home, the process is fascinating, simple and low-budget.

In custody

The quality of the work produced will depend only on the materials applied and strict observance of the process sequence. For decades, the technology of the manufacture of paving slabs by decades allows the owners of country sites not only to significantly save money during the arrangement of paths, platforms for recreation or parking spaces, but also to give the site the uniqueness in accordance with personal tastes and preferences.

POST Views: 6

Concrete tiles for tracks and sites today is used everywhere. However, its price does not always correspond to quality. Purchased specimens often do not withstand multiple frost cycles and after 2-3 years later cracks. To provide yourself with a high-quality pavement, you need to learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands. The process does not require the acquisition of expensive equipment and materials. The main thing is to understand the production technology, pick up the shape and knead the "correct" solution.

The technology of manufacturing paving slabs is quite simple. However, there are many nuances that need to be considered by planning to organize the production process.

Facing section paving slabs

Vibrolite or vibratingressing: the choice of method

The process of creating paving slabs has two main directions: vibratingressing and vibrating. Technologically, they are characteristic of some differences, which affects the characteristics of the finished product.

The first method provides for the use of expensive equipment - vibration press and thermocamera. The solution with a small amount of water is supplied to the mold, compacted, exposed to pressure and vibration. After that, the workpiece is entered into the drying chamber. At elevated temperature and high humidity, the slabs are gaining strength sufficient for laying in places with intensive load.

The vibration technology assumes the sealing of the working mixture under the vibrational effect - the solution is evenly distributed in shape and compacted. The filled molds move on racks for drying, and after two days the ready-made tile is extracted.

Vibropressing paving slabs

The manufacture of paving slabs at home is possible only by vibration. For work, you can use inexpensive tools and equipment, and the vibrotole do it yourself.

The production cycle consists of the following steps:

1. Preparation of molds.
2. Concrete mixes.
3. Molding on vibrationtole.
4. Exposure and drying in forms - about two days.
5. Tile platform.

Important! The tile made in "vibrotechnology" is optimally suitable for the formation of garden tracks and paths. It is not suitable for parking, as it gives way to the strength characteristics of pressed products.

Homemade vibrolyed bruster

Equipment and tools for the organization of the process

The feasibility of acquiring a particular equipment depends on the estimated scale of the production of paving slabs at home. However, it will be necessary to work:

1. Forms. The construction market offers a wide selection of molds for home and mass production of blocks. Form material determines the convenience and durability of its use:
   • silicone models - the creation of complex structural surfaces, the form will withstand 50 cycles;
   • plastic - simplicity of ornament, strength and durability - calculated on 800 production cycles;
   • polyurethane forms are well held by "geometry" of tiles, service life - 100 cycles.

1. Shellage and canopy for drying. The place for "setting" concrete must correspond to a number of requirements:
   • the horizontal of racks - the bottom of the base of the forms is not allowed;
   • finding the site in the shade - the ingress of sun rays is fraught with cracking of finished products;
   • the presence of a canopy protecting against rain.

Important! The minimum permissible temperature for the natural drying of the paving slabs is + 10 ° C.

Difostern forms for the production of tile

Additional inventory will be needed for work: bucket, shovel, level and rubber gloves.

Instructions for creating forms under the tile

At home, create a form for paving slabs with your own hands from wood, plastic, plaster or remedies.

Option 1. Production of a wooden form from boards and plywood:

1. From the board, cut two parts whose length is 3 cm above the ribs of the tile itself, and height is 2 cm more.
2. Two more details must accurately match the sizes of tiles.
3. Boards to gripe with iron corners - you need to screw the screws that it will be easy to remove after the concrete is frozen.

Council. When pouring a solution in a wooden form, it is desirable to lay the reinforcement grid in the middle of the thickness of the tile.

Wooden removable molds

Option 2. The easiest way to create a mold is to trim the bottom 5-liter plastic bottle.

The height will determine the thickness of the paving slabs. In addition, unnecessary plastic containers and packaging are suitable as simple forms. If you put a patterned mesh or leaf before pouring to the bottom, then the front side will find the embossed surface.

Plastic forms for paving slabs

Option 3. Creating a plaster template:

1. Prepare a gypsum mixture and an exemplary cladding element, for example, textured ceramic tiles with a protruding pattern.
2. Make a formwork from a tree in shape of the workpiece and insert tiles into it.
3. Pattern treated with fat - it will prevent the gypsum sticking.
4. Gypsum breed with water, adding a little plasticizer.
5. The resulting mass pour shape.
6. After a day, remove the formwork and remove the tile.

Homemade gypsum pattern under the tile

Lack of plaster template - fragility. When you hit or fall, the likely is that the form splits.

Option 4. Having skills to work on the welding machine, it will turn out to make a metal design of a simple form from plugs of fittings or rails. Metal stripes 5 cm "Cut" according to the size of the future tile and weld them with each other. For ease of use, provide handles.

Metal hexagonal shape

High-quality solution - the basis of the durability of plates

The composition of the sidewalk tile includes:

• cement;
• large and small filler;
• dye;
• plasticizer;
• fibrovolok;
• water.

High-quality cement does not contain lumps

Components are combined in a strict dosage, and certain requirements are presented to each component.

The technology of manufacturing paving slabs at home or production implies the use of portland cement Mark M 500 (minimum - M 400). Important condition is the quality and "freshness" of cement. When buying, you need to check the production date (each month the composition loses 5% of its properties), the absence of lumps and ramp.

Council. Express test will help determine the quality of cement. On alkaline mineral water, knead the cement dough and roll it in the form of a thin disk. Good cement will dry in a few minutes. If for drying it took about an hour, and the disc was covered with cracks, then the composition was supplemented with outsided impurities and poor-quality binding.

Sand and crushed stone - solution fillers

Clean granite drops, pebbles or slag are used as a large filler. Small filler - career or river sand without clay and impurities. If, after compression in a fist, the sand holds the form of a coma - this indicates the large content of clay components.

Selection of plasticizer for the manufacture of the mixture

Plasticizer for paving slabs, due to the high dispersed ability, adjusts the viscosity of the mixture, increasing strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance of the product. Experts recommend adding stamp components to a solution: Plastimix F, Master Silk, Component. Excellent proven to "Superplastic C-3".

For the reinforcement of the concrete solution, fibrovocals are used. Polypropylene Fiber Micronix 12 mm, crushed fiberglass or basalt Fiber MicronixBazalt 12 mm.

Important! The length of the fibrovolock should not exceed the size of the large filler in the concrete mix.

Varieties used fibrovolokna

The optimal proportions of the solution for sidewalk tiles are shown in the table.

The ratio of components in solution

Nuances tinting homemade paving

Mineral and organic pigments are selected for tile staining. Artificial cakes based on minerals have a high coloring ability, resistance to chemical reagents and temperature drops. Natural pigments make it possible to achieve muffled natural shades.

Before making paving slabs, you need to decide on the way it's a tinting:

• painting on the finished product;
• adding a dye into the crude mass.

Tinting paving slabs

The first method is quite laborious, as high-quality painting requires a lot of time. To speed up the process, you can use the paintopult, but in this case it is difficult to achieve uniform staining.

The second method is more costly. Dry dyes that provide water-repellent coating are expensive, and to achieve persistent and rich color, you will need to add about 7% of the mass of concrete. Therefore, many masters and manufacturers use the fill method with two layers.

The prepared form is filled with color concrete, and from above - colorless. It is important that the gap between the fills is not more than 20 minutes. In addition to saving, this method increases the strength characteristics of the paving.

Step-by-step tile manufacture of vibration

We will analyze in stages, how to make paving slabs at home using vibrolying technology. For the manufacture of paversing, you will need to build a simple vibration table.

Vibration table manufacture

Wombostola construction from undergraduate

Vibrostol has a simple construction and maintenance design.

For its creation, the following materials will be needed:

• sheet steel with a thickness of 5-10 mm - under the tabletop;
• metal corner 5 * 5 cm - to create sideboards on the table;
• channel with holes for fixing the motor;
• pipes 4 * 4 cm 2 mm thick - reference racks;
• pipes 4 * 2 cm - for the manufacture of upper crossbars;
• metal plates - Opportal soles;
• springs providing vibration;
• bolts and washers for locking engine;
• electric motor (IV-99E, IV-98E) with a capacity of 0.5-0.9 kW;
• electric cable, switch, socket.

Production sequence:

Preparation of shape and mortar

Before filling, the form must be smeared with a special emulsion ("Lirossin", "Emulsol") or use their substitutes:

• soap solution;
• vegetable oil;
• motor oil.

Council. It is undesirable to lubricate the shape of the salt solution - it leaves divorces on the surface of the product, and the pattern itself will quickly deteriorate.

The solution is mixed in a certain sequence in compliance with temporary recommendations:

1. First stirred sand, plasticizer and dye. Zack time - 30-40 seconds.
2. Crushed stone and cement is added to the dry mix. With such a composition, the concrete mixer works another minute.
3. Then the water is gradually introduced until a sufficiently dense consistency is obtained.
4. The final stage is the addition of fibrovolock and re-kneaded for one minute.

Adding components of a solution in concrete mixer

The mixture for tile, made with your own hands, should not block the trowel, but at the same time it is easy to fill out the form.

Vibrating and drying paving slabs

Molding technology paving:

1. Lubricated forms to put on the vibrotole and pour into them the solution.
2. Enable vibration mode for 5 minutes.
3. When the white film appears on the surface of the mixture, turn off. Excessive shaking can provoke a bundle of solution.
4. Billets rearrange on racks, cover with polyethylene film and leave for 2-3 days. Be sure to control the smooth surface of the racks. If the tile dry under the slope, it will not be able to put it evenly on the track.

Boating homemade paving slabs

Forming finished product and cleaning forms

When concrete clings, the tile can be removed from the form. To facilitate the extraction, the press form with the pouring is lowered into the container with a heated to 60 ° -70 ° C. Five minutes later, the finished product is knocked out with a rubber hammer on a soft surface - you can disseminate the old bedspread.

The "raw" tile sucks on the same racks for another 7 days, then it consists in pallets and dials the final hardness a month later. Only after that the material is ready for lining tracks.

Exhaust forms pour with salted mortar (per 1 liter of water 30 grams of cook salt), clean, rinse and put it on drying.

Paving tile with river pebbles

Decorative tile with stone: master class

On the country site, it looks beautifully paving landscape styled with river stones. Simple technology for making paving slabs with their own hands, the available composition of the mixture and natural materials allow you to embody the idea at your own cottage.

1. When the composition is ready - the stones are pressed into the solution.
2. Forms to cover the cellophane and leave for four days for drying. Twice a day of the workpiece water water.
3. When the tile begins to move away from formwork, the product can be removed and dry without a mold.

Creating a composition and tamping stones

Manufacturing with their own hands paving slabs - a fascinating process. Guided by step-by-step instructions, it will be possible to create an original and high-quality product, calculated for a long service life in the yard or garden. If there is no confidence in success, it is worth a deeper to study the topic, consulted with specialists.