Automatic curtain opening with your own hands. Roll curtains with electric drive - beauty and convenience. We now turn to the details, in all senses

Automatic blinds today were distributed not only in office space. They are increasingly used in private cottages and apartments.

The possibility of remote control allows you to more accurately adjust the level of illumination, saves strength and time, improving the comfort of use.

The need for electric drive

Automatic electric shutters on the windows are especially necessary for large premises, conference rooms or balconies.

Installation saves time to regulate the system.

Setting up a specific program makes it possible to manage all windows by adjusting each of them independently.

The advantage of automatic models is also a slow wear of the material of the blinds, since the same effort is spent on their adjustment.

The need for automation also occurs:

when installing blinds on ventilation grids in hard-to-reach places;
on air intake lattices that are mounted high on the facade;
on heating radiators.

At the place of installation, blinds with electric drive are subdivided:

on external - they are mounted on the external openings of windows and doors to protect against direct rays or the penetration of other people;
electric internal blinds are used in everyday life for doors, windows or partitions;
technical devices are used for ventilation lattices, usually at industrial enterprises.

Self-making device

The cost of electrical blinds is high enough, however, it is possible to make such a system with your own hands.

The design of the device consists of three parts:

carrier shaft;
main canvase;
electrical block.

To construct automatic blinds with your own hands, it is not necessary to be a specialist with technical education. You can install the system, having certain skills and using step-by-step instructions.

Required measurements

At the initial stage, it is necessary to determine the size of the product that depend on the parameters of the window frame. Curtain can be slightly longer, but its width should not go beyond the window.

Standard allowance is usually no more than 2 cm. The structure of the material from which the blinds are made, does not affect the ability to automate them.

Therefore, the choice of material is mainly determined by the interior of the room, the windows form, the installation site. More often use high density material.

The process of manufacturing curtains is simple:

on the size of the sizes, taking into account the allowances, two identical details are cut;
they neatly fold the front side inside and stitched;
the resulting bag is turned off;
next stalls the top edge of the bag.

Shutter is ready. However, there is no need to sew it yourself. You can use old blinds with a plastic rod existing ones.

For installation of the electric drive, any kind of blinds are suitable. For the convenience of manufacture, the rolled curtains are most often choosing, but they can only be used indoors.

Engine selection

At the next stage, it is necessary to correctly pick up the electric drive for the blinds with your own hands.

Engines can work:

from battery voltage 12 V;
from solar battery;
from 220 V.

You can use a motor with a gearbox as a drive, choosing it taking into account the rotation speed of the shaft. In this case, according to the calculations of specialists, the rotation speed of the engine shaft must be above 15 rpm., And the voltage is not lower than 12 V.

Engine selection depends:

from the installation site of the system;
weight of the whole design;
type of blinds.

In horizontal structures with the width of elements from 1.6 to 5.0 cm, the drives are selected with a voltage of 24 V to 220 V. It is mounted inside the eaves and program on remote raises, lowering and turning curtains.

For vertical blinds, a 24 V voltage engine is used, which is installed behind the cornice. Lamins can be remotely moving or rotated.

Installation of rolled models is much easier. The shutter drive is fixed in the tube for winding the curtains, which ensures the cost of space.

At the same time, you can mount the radio receiver of the radio signal. In the design of the type of plize, engines are used with a voltage of 24 V.

Selecting a control device

There are different ways to control the shutters with an electric drive.

Radio signal

When the remote is remotely programmed in a certain way.

At a specified time, it gives a timer signal on the device, after which the blinds are adjusted.

Switch

With a stationary method near the window or in another convenient place, a button is mounted, with which the entire mechanism is started.

Smartphone

A special program is installed on it, allowing you to remotely manage the entire system.

Blinds on photoelements

The most expensive management way. Responding to the lighting intensity, the photocells start the device when changing the power of the light flux.

Universal way. Makes it possible to manage automatic blinds on windows by any of the possible ways.

ARDUINO connection

Automation for blinds can be constructed using the Arduino module. A program specifying certain functions is recorded on it.

Depending on the sensors installed, the system will react:

to change the temperature regime;
illumination rate;
timer installed at a certain time.

The use of the Arduino platform is especially convenient to control two and more windows. The module allows, if you wish, press the change button to change the speed or rotation of the elements, as well as program additional functions.

The security regime is especially important, in which the owner is in a timely manner about the emergence of failures in the system.

Advantages and disadvantages of automation

Blinds on the windows with an electric drive are installed, first of all, for the convenience of their operation (compared to manual control).

Among other advantages of their use can be noted:

the ability to simultaneously manage all the curtains in the house;
reducing the wear of the cloth of the curtain;
ease of managing panoramic windows;
the possibility of applying a programmable timer and and;
the ability to integrate the device in.

In addition to advantages, electrical blinds have disadvantages:

the quality of components - cheap components quickly fail, the purchase of high-quality parts leads to the rise in the cost of the entire design;
the use of batteries requires regular recharging;
if the network voltage is used, installation of additional outlets near windows is required;
it is worth considering the additional electricity consumption that will be required for the system.

Conclusion

Installation of automatic blinds with your own hands is a simple and affordable way to enhance the comfort of living.

However, even high-quality installation of the structure does not exclude the probabilities of failures in the control system or breakage of any parts.

Therefore, along with automation, it is desirable to leave a manual way to control the curtains, as a spare. It will come in handy for the repair of an electrical device.

Video: Automatic Blinds on servo drive and Arduino

The idea was born for a long time and long revealed. It all started with moving to another apartment, the windows of which go to the east. In winter, nothing else, but in the summer, the brazen sun gets up when I only fell asleep or did not even go to bed. Brightly shine straight in the eye, says that I do not sleep summer. It, of course, the right, not to sleep in the summer, but not to sleep at all somehow it does not work. From the sun, the curtains have already come up with a very long time, and they even have me. Pretty dense. But not enough. The bright light is pierced, not straight rays, but still brightly. And the main thing they must not be forgotten to close from the evening, open the day when I woke up. Someone makes a smart home, someone is plentiful. Well, I have a lazy house, all in me. The owner should not bother with such a serious difficulty as the engine curtains already twice a day. Let the curtains fit smoothly for a while before the alarm clock (or even instead of it). The sun should wake my majesty, but do not interfere with him, so?

Spoiler:

I began to think the Duma how to automate this matter. The first idea is obvious, the cable, the engine and hang it all on the curtains. While I thought out how to implement it, consolidate how the sensors are ending to attach, then Syu, while I tried to overcome too lazy and do, the three things have passed. But never did. And this is good. Because by that time another thought was completed. What to move the curtains that move not so easily and not enough block the light, it is better to use blinds. Well, when I climbed to google about them, I learned about such a cool thing as rolled curtains. Somehow did not come across them before.

Rolled curtains are the average between the blinds and the curtains. A piece of fabric, which, when not needed, turns into a roll at the top. They hang on each window separately. On opening - directly to the sash, you can open at any position of the curtains. Of course there are different colors, patterns and light sources. And what I needed, there are options for "Blackout", that is, the blocking light is almost completely. In the usual version are controlled by a hanging loop with a chain rope. There are different widths, but if necessary, it is possible to cut around the place. Prices are also different, somewhere from 600 rubles (~ $ 10). Here, for example, in. If you need simple, without delight, it is quite acceptable, as it seems to me.

Bought, hung - excellent! It remains only to automate. There are no problems with the engine, the curtain is light enough, nothing powerful needs. Manual cord management I decided to remove. Without it, the motor shaft can be rigidly connected with a bottle. It simplifies the design. The case, if there is a 3D printer, the problem turns into a design question. But the electronics ... There are many options for solving the problem. A detailed analysis, why I chose such a hiding under the spoiler.

Options, thoughts, compromises

First you need to decide whether we want to control the curtains from the button, the console, the smartphone, as long as. Or immediately for any. And directly or integrate into any lazy house. If integrate, how to tie, wires, wi-file, bluetooth, radio channel or some more perversion. Here everyone has their own preferences. I chose Wi-Fi as a pretty universal option. Wire wires - unnecessary. IR / Radio Consoles make no sense, it is better to have one ring, to rule everyone, oh, that is, one smartphone for all home automation. Moreover, if you wish, redirect the commands from anything in Wi-Fi are quite simple. I have an IR receiver in a computer, Gasha light and manage the music with a remote control from TV. It will be necessary (and if I find another unoccupied button) - there will be a curtain control from it.

Well, once wi-fi, then of course ESP8266. The modules built on this microcontroller are inexpensive and are quite suitable for the task. I know about ESP32 (almost the same thing, but moreon and also with Bluetooth), but has not yet applied.

And then it is brewing a compromise on which you have to go. Power to drag with wires. Because to twist the motor a couple of times a day - a battery, for example, 18650, is enough for a long time. But continuously feed ESP8266 - no.

On a fluid attacks, the engine consumes in the area of \u200b\u200b220mA, take the battery 18650 to 2500mach, we obtain from it 5 volts to the upgrade, 2500 * 3.6 / 5 * 80% \u003d 1440Mach, it means to twist it can be 1440/220 \u003d ~ 6.5 hours. Raise or close it takes about 2 minutes (from the height of the window and speed depends). About 90-100 cycles "there + back" on one charge. For 3 months would have enough. And if you use 2 batteries, and an increased container is more than six months. Acceptable. But in addition to the engine there is electronics.

ESP8266 has several energy saving modes for such cases. But if we want (and we want), so that the command to open-closing the curtains can be sent at any time, then Wi-Fi cannot be disabled, and without it will not save much. My experiments did not led to anything at least. The average consumption remained somewhere 5-10mA, which is clearly a lot for autonomous food. It is worse, I have an ESP "WATM periodically stopped saving energy, it was worth only to propening it 10. HZ what kind of glitch did not work. Well, let me be crucial, it can really squeeze 2-3ma, no longer an option. Change batteries once in Monthly (and this is still in good case) - too. Include Wi-Fi occasionally only for timing synchronization, not an option. You never know when you need to close the curtains, suddenly the movie will look at the day, but the bright light of the sun interferes. So far Low-voltage, currents are small, easy to pave between the frame and sash, behind the window plinth, on the side of the balcony or how to disguise. But I did once and forgot, and not the batteries change each time. You can go to batteries if only work on schedule + Manual control wired button. I'll think about this option for giving. Either changing Wi-Fi on BT, RF, IR, or something else two-letter-buggy. By the way, Rungeless Googling says what is on sale (even straight We, sellers of these curtains) and rechargeable drives with a remote remote control, who needs. And I will collect me as convenient for me. With wires. Hide them real.

Another question gets up, here we have a number of 2-3 (well, it is specifically 2) windows (I mean individual windows. The deaf opening or the balcony door, in one window open) in the room, the curtains are the same, the engines too, and how many "brains"? In general, of course, the computing power of the ESP is enough for more than, we do not have Rocket Science here. But, on the other hand, then besides nutrition, it will be necessary to pave the wires and to control the motors, for step items it is 4 pins, if directly. The most common and cheap Chinese handkerchief on ESP also the number of conclusions is limited. And if you stuff these scarves directly to the motors, one for each, then everything is simplified. So I decided if the gun and shells are a penny, then you can shoot it from it. Simple, modular, easily repaired, compact solution outweigh savings on matches. The electronics breaks at one drive, so the second will allow you to open the window and I will not die from lack of lighting (yes, I am also a vegetable).

Usually, making lazy automation, it is necessary to consider backup control options, as it will ever break it. And if it does not break, then the light will turn off. Or Wi-Fi will hang. From mechanical manual control, I refused, the chain at the window does not hang. So, with meals with meals, we can not do anything with curtains. Okay, somehow survive. You can power from the uninterrupted or make a 5 volt uninterruptible. Another thing if everything works, but fell Wi-Fi. On the board there is a free pin where you can enjoy the button to manually start the curtains. The drive is high, the button can be lowered down to hang out on the lace. But I did not do that. The router is powered by UPS, it is not buggy, aptime, and more, rebuilds only when updating the firmware and replacing the batteries. And in the case of a fire in the house, as recently it was. He burned the drive cable channel, there was no light for a couple of hours, the smoothness quickly surrendered. But it is rare. In general, someone can be comfortable as another control channel.

We now move on to detail, in all senses.

Engine. Here, the choice was obvious to me. Widespread . Price 1.5-3 bucks, depending on the quantity, configuration of the driver and greed of the seller. Sold at every corner of the Chinese Internet. There are 5 and 12 volts, I used the most common, pasty. It is a stepper motor (i.e. it can be twisted in small "steps" to the desired angle or the desired number of revolutions) combined with the gearbox. Due to this, with very modest weights (~ 30 g) and dimensions (~ 3x3x2 cm), it develops a good power, about 300 grams-forces on a centimeter. It's not so much, but it is enough to wind the curtains. The gearbox also provides efficient braking of the shaft in the absence of nutrition. You can scroll through your hand, but with a decent effort, more worker. So the curtains will not spontaneously operate when the power is turned off. And plus - he is very quiet. It is almost not heard in the meter from the ear. When attaching to the solid surface of vibration, when working slightly increases the noise, it becomes slightly audible in a quiet room, but it is unlikely to wake anyone. I certainly. In general, as I understood, they are often used to control the curtain of air conditioners. And she can move all night in Swing mode (I do not know how it is in Russian, shorter Cogda waves there and there). The gearbox is plastic, but here we do not think the disadvantage, the load is small, the wear is unlikely to affect the "curtain" mileage, in Conde, he lives somehow? Someone at all on such mini 3D printers did, and there is a non-stop movement. The main thing is not too often to twist him for the shaft, that may be easy to kill it. He also has a rather significant luft shaft, both axial and radial. Pretty essential. But again, this application does not play values \u200b\u200bat all and does not have a role. So it has a minus, I think, only one, again the consequence of the gearbox, the engine is slow. 15-25 RPM, i.e. One turn in 3-4 seconds. You can, faster - no. But the curtains are the case, the hurry is not required, on the contrary, they need to raise them slowly and majestically. So suits.

The engine can rotate the curtains to a specified number of revolutions. But it's all, in Einsteinsky, relatively. And we need, in Archimedovsky, the point of the support, from which the countdown. If you have two such control points, on top and bottom, you can generally use the usual engine and twist "until the stop". But it is inconvenient to do it from below, but on top you can put a micrik. (I saw the implementation on the Internet at all without terminivists, the curtains studied at the first time. But this is not my way, the position can be reset when the power is turned off, if you do not save it every time in flash memory, raping it. The engine can skip it for some reason Steps. Little.) The microswitch will be pressed with a completely raised curtain, and down we will unwind the length to the length specified when setting up. In fact, it would be possible to even better use the germ and magnet at the bottom of the curtains. But I did not think before. Kamrad suggested me when they discussed this topic in smart curtains from Xiaomi. I left the micros, but nothing interferes with the use of Herkes, if desired. Microcks stand a little more bucks per bunch. Search by Micro Limit Switch, for example. We need the smallest, 13x6mm, better without a roller. Although the roller is always a mona circumcision to do.

The mechanics remains a housing and a couple of M3 screws to collect together. Corps draw, we will live to print. The case ideally make the most compact, from aesthetic considerations. Yes, and then extra plastic spend. So we do the fee at first, there is already a building.

Electronics.

It means a heart ... although not, brains, we will have ESP8266. This microcontroller requires an external memory, antenna and other difficult to work at home. So we take the finished scarf. There are many different options, from very small to almost Arduino-like. My choice is ESP-07. One of the most compact options, with a ceramic antenna. There is even a connector under an outer antenna, but within the apartment it is not needed. ESP-12 slightly more because of the "drawn" on the antenna board. The price is 2 bucks, plus-minus how shit.

Driving the engine these brains cannot directly. Went. I do not remember how much the current of Pin at ESP is precisely allowed, it seems 12 mA, and it is necessary in the region of 200-300. We need transistors for amplification. The easiest way to take a chickemb with keys, ULN2003. In it, at the same time there are all the diodes necessary for controlling inductive load. Often fees with this microcircuit are sold complete to the motor. Only there she is in the Dip of the building, which is overcome bulky. Such shawls are good to have wires for pavement, and in the finished product, put ULN2003ADR in the SO-16 case. It is even in a retail chip and dype only 19 rubles, Ali is at least less than a dozen dollar.

The engine requires 5 volts nutrition, brains need 3.3. So we put the chip-stabilizer. Here the choice is huge. I took the most pop - AMS1117-3.3 in the SOT-223 housing. The price of a dollar in a dozen, for $ 3 will send a hundred at once. For food ESP "Shek from lithium, they are not suitable, the voltage drop is about 1 volt, but from 5V to nourish just right. I often use them for ESP and STM32.

We still need resistors 0805 with a nominal 10kom, plus-minus. Troika capacitors, also 0805, 1MKF nominal or more. Less is not desirable, it can be buggy. And pins for connecting everything so as not to get tight. The most ordinary, single-row straight, step 2.54. Color to taste.

Food from 5 volts of the source. Current consumption up to 0.4A to the speed. Honest 1 amp block should be enough for two curtains. If you do not raise them at the same time, even 0.5a is enough, probably. But it is better not to risk. If possible, it is better to overcall the power supply to 6 volts, it compensates for the drop on the wires and keys of the motor driver. Especially for widespread heavy curtains.

For the initial firmware, you will also need a USB-TTL adapter. Any. You can use any Arduux with a USB port as it. The adapter is a penny, but you can also ask for someone for a while, further updating the firmware, if necessary, you can already do through the air.

Pay.

The scheme is simple, the connection is typical. Drew and then drank a fee in DipTrace.

Here to make a fee turned out to be a little more difficult. I wanted to make the most compact, but not refusing to 0805 small things, as the most common and comfortable for soldering. And the tracks are 0.4mm, quite acceptable for the manufacture of a melt. Bilateral fee. It was possible for a millimeter or even two to reduce the length, throwing out the optional R5 resistor between DTR and GPIO0, but I thought about it later.
Cards can be ordered in China. On jlcpcb, it seems an action with free shipping for the first order. Then 2 USD for a dozen (or even much more, if then poured manually). With delivery already worse, over the top ten rolls. But you can search for options, there are many of them. I myself have never ordered it, I'll go around the photoresist.

Case.

In the process of work, the case passed a long evolutionary path, starting with a simple bracket bracket for the engine.

For a while I broke my head, how to fix micrik and how to press it. I tried the options for attaching a fork to him, between the teeth of which I passed the slope, so that the weighting agent at the bottom of the curtains pushing this plug during the rise. All this was uneatetic and impractical. But the beautiful decision in the end was found. You just need to slide the plastic strip, so that it rests on the drive body. The bottom wall of the housing is flexible, and micrik hide inside.

The advanced strip tip can be closed with a vertical P-shaped profile pasted on the window frame. Then the curtain will lay down to the glass even on the winding windows. For symmetry, the plank is cut in half and put forward on both sides.

The case is designed for fastening to the base, which goes complete to the curtains. There is a rather rich choice of ways of fastening, on the editor for the edge, on tape, screws. Stupid to refuse. For other curtains, the size of the attachment bar may differ, the model will have to rule. But it is not difficult, I painted in OpenScad, well, as I painted, everything is set to the text there. So it is not difficult to fix it, a few numbers change. But there can be difficult there in my shockode to figure it out. Who will need to be prompting where and how.

We print. The task of the printer I am preparing in SLIC3R "e. I try to fit so that only perimeters is printed, without filling. The number of upper and lower layers put so that the bottom (when printing) the wall is completely filled.

My settings are such. Printing a layer of 0.25 mm, the first layer of 0.3 mm, 3 perimeters (for the lid is better to deliver more perimeters, 5-6), solid layers: 4 upper, 4 lower. I printed and ABS "Ohm (a little hard is printed, it is better to print with a protective perimeter for all height) and PLA. But he stopped at PETG, they are the easiest. On the printing of the case 17 grams take place, on the lid - about 6. Print time - 45- 50 minutes and 15 minutes, respectively.

After printing, you can handle the skin and solvent to obtain a glossy surface, but I'm too lazy, so I decided that [s] and so it will not be seen from afar.

We also print an adapter to the axis. It should also be adjusted under a specific chart, if it has a planting diameter. My mine is 15-16 mm.

Soldering.

I usually make cards with a photoresist. It takes it a little longer than the lute, but a little better in quality and less marriage.

The bad manufacture of boards at home, jumpers will have to drive into the transition holes. On factory boards, the holes inside are covered with metal and this ensures contact between the parties of the board. Well, I make jumpers from the vein of the multi-breeding wire. I put the fee on the odor, I insert the core, I bite off in a millimeter above the board and squeezing with a hammer. The board before the blow is better to lift slightly, so that it has been cut on top and bottom evenly. It turns out quite reliably, and if it is also more late - generally perfectly. And it does not stick out anything, you can move directly under chips.

Sold down the detail. Please note if you suddenly repeat. Resistor R5 - 300 Ohms (designation 301), and not 10k (103), like the rest. Do not confuse. It is generally optional, you can pour a jumper. He just in case, not to hit the DTR line when experiments with firmware. From the reverse side, there is also an optional R7 resistor (in the photo above), nothing to solder there, it is for experiments with a deep sleep only.

Some pins also serve as interlayer jumpers. So you need to solder them on both sides. First we sear the bottom, then we raise the plastic skirt and carefully, using not too much solder, pecking from above. Ideally, the skirt gets almost in place, there is a small deepening. I sold so myself, do not pay attention. I am generally a master on all curves hands.

Initial firmware.

If you have already installed Arduino IDE, it is easiest to flash from it. If you have not yet set the package to support ESP8266, then you need to add it (Tools - Board - Boards Manager, ESP8266 by ESP8266 Community - Install, version 2.4.1, at the moment. In 2.3.0 I had glitches and brakes). Next, set the parameters.

In order not to install Arduino IDE, you can use the free utility from Espressif, the developer of this chip. Download and run. In the settings, we put everything on the screenshot, in the first line only select your path to the download bin-firmware. In the address "0x0000" is X, and not ha, if that. And, it is important, select the correct memory size. For ESP07, usually 8 Mbps (\u003d 1 MB). For other boards, there can be 32 Mbps (\u003d 4 MB). Otherwise, the error in the firmware will be.

In both cases, you need to select the correct COM port for your USB-TTL adapter. You can see it in the device manager, in Windows. And the linuxers themselves will understand. Port speed can be put any, but it is better to start from 115200, for reliability.

Connect as follows.
Board - USB-TTL
GND - GND.
RX - TX.
TX - RX.
On the board we connect DTR and GND (the one is used for the confusion, it is still free). It is necessary that during the power supply of the ESP8266 board moved to the firmware mode. Then, for ordinary work, the DTR will need to be turned off, otherwise it will hang, waiting for the firmware.

Well, last time I give food 5 volts to contacts in the corner of the board, GND (minus) and Vin (plus). And do not confuse. Everything is ready, press START or UPLOAD. If everything turns out the first time - throw everything and run to buy lottery tickets. Otherwise, we check everything again, most often the problem with the choice of COM port or confused RX-TX (you can try to change them in places). We check the soldering, pray to Ktulhu, try again.

After successful firmware, we turn off the DTR and the adapter, only power remains. Turn off, we turn on again. Consumption must be about 80 mA, it is so, for control (in firmware mode or incorrect recording, consumption is usually less). We give the board of seconds 5 to launch and see the available Wi-Fi network. A new unparalleled network should appear.

Connect and go to the address. Must see something similar to the interface. We climb in and configure.

In the settings, you can select the Russian language if English does not suit. I prefer English in technical things. But, I suspect, not everyone shares my tastes and, so that there was no accusation of me in hatred towards the native language (although at school, I really didn't like him very much and got troops), I decided to give the choice of the owner.

I still finish the firmware, at the moment version 0.02 Beta still does not support anything. For example, it is impossible to set a static IP, only a DHCP machine. To begin with, you should come up with a network name and specify your Wi-Fi network. It is advisable to specify the NTP server to get the exact time. After rebooting, find out the router, which IP he issued our drive. If desired, consolidate it in order not to change. From Mobile, in theory, you can log into the browser by the name that specified in the settings. From the computer it may not roll, for example, in Win7, the default is no MDNS client. You can put Bonjoure from Apple, and maybe it is already if you are an apple fan. But this is a separate topic.

Further update firmware supports by air. As from Arduino IDE directly (MDNS support is needed in the system), and directly fill the BIN file to HTTR: // IP / Update (Admin login-password: admin, while it changes only in the firmware, then I can endure in the settings) .

In general, I immediately want to say, the firmware is written in accordance with all security standards taken in IoT (Internet of things). Those. As hit. However, if someone connected to this device, then he already knows the password from your wireless network, and it may fail to harm the curtains there. However, at least one should not be given on the router access to the curtains from the global network directly. In the future, it may come up with password access, although I don't see any meaning in this.

Regarding the writing of the firmware, it would not be honest not to express the gratitude to the Camrade and his cat for their ESP8266, which helped deal with this chip. And for it for Sonoffled, from the sources of which I learned a lot. So, Alexey, thank you!

So, they started, the network was set up, you can collect together. We solder the wiring to the microca, crimp the connector. Or we take two wiring with a connector and solder them. You need to solder to extreme conclusions, normally closed. If suddenly the terminal falls off from the board, it will be equivalent to a constantly pressable state, less chances to kill the engine.

We screw the motor to the case. Insert Micrik. For reliability, it is better to fasten it with a bit of thermoclause from the contacts. Connect to the board and tamper inside. I did not shorten the wires from the motor, I, of course, was lazy. Just soared and stuffed inside. I justified this by the fact that it would be so easier to change, if you suddenly need. The board enters the density, if correctly unpown. Candle if necessary. It did not need to fix it, sits reliably. The wires of the power can be spoken into the slot over the mount, then they will be unbounded. We snatch the lid. Does not work. Seal wires, try again. I managed. Times from the third. Serving option:

The power supply from Ali, B.U.Ch. from some kind of equipment, is quite decent, as far as I can judge with my education (graduated from the advanced training courses in the reviews from Kirich "a). Standed 10 watts by 5 volts, we are not so much power It is necessary, so with a large margin. I only slightly raised the output voltage, in a battle somewhere, changing the resistor. If necessary, change the output capacitors to more voltage. It will be installed on a glazed balcony, almost under the ceiling, but still stuffed it In the IP55 dispenser, with a Schnayderovo brand. They like me. Connecting wires on fakes under WAGO, but the currents are small, on the line of the balcony, I have a C6 machine at all, if that (I do not want to provoke Wago-srach in the comments).

We pave the feed wires along the inside of the sash. We make a loop in the place where it turns, so that it is not greatly overtaken. And connect to the power unit.

Time to set up the motor. For a stepper motor, it is important to include windings in which sequence. With an incorrect connection, it will spin in the opposite direction or at all to twitch as an exhausted epileptic. I kind of when I did a fee and wrote Soft, lay a straightforward order. But, apparently, somewhere withdrawal, as always. As a result, the settings made a choice of any connection option so as not to bathe in the future. Suddenly, the Chinese on the engine connector will change the pinout. I am suitable option "A-B-D-C". We try different, click the TEST buttons. We choose the direction direct or reverse, so that the "test up" cumshots. You can experiment at speed. Default 1500, this is a microseconds per step. The smaller the number, the higher the speed. It works for me somewhere up to 900, 800 is already stopped twist. It is better to leave the stock. You can slow down even more, it is possible to slightly reduce the noise from vibration, if somewhere resonance is manifested at a certain speed.

Configuring the motor, you need to configure the length of the curtains. Raise completely up, before the sensor is triggered, then lowered down to the desired length. You can use the test button, and it is possible to expose the value of the length of the curtains, gradually increasing it. Having learned the desired length, save.

Ready! You can open and close windows through the browser from any device. It works quietly, smoothly, slowly (eye such a movement does not even immediately catch, well, that is, you do not jump from an unexpected sharp movement). I have a glass in a balcony door in full height, Curtains to Niza does not reach Niza, but there is not so much light, the balcony is shielded. It is possible to build a chart, I do not need. So the full length of 1.70m passes minutes for 2.5 at speeds in the settings 1500.

I did not deal with the web layout a long time ago, since then a lot has changed, for example, it turned out that the tables no longer refine. And you still need to somehow make that on mobile devices it looks decent. It turned out so-so, but you can live.

Integration with something smart.

And here it will be briefly.
Already now you can manage the network by a simple query by HTTP.
HTR: // IP-Address / Open
HTTR: // IP-Address / Close
There is also a service link, it is convenient to use it with AJAX
HTR: // ip-address / test? Up \u003d 1 & reversed \u003d 0 & pinout \u003d 2 & delay \u003d 1500 & steps \u003d 300
All parameters are optional, returns after the operation is completed, the current position of the curtains.

Where to score these HTTP-links depends on which system of smart home use. I have my own, on the basis of what I did at work for more serious things. But I'm sure you can fasten to anything without much effort. You can find examples on the Internet.

MQTT protocol can be screwed. Probably add the firmware in the following versions.

This is what I do not know how to solve it better - synchronization with alarm clock. I did not find how to do it in Androidapi. So that I put the alarm clock at 14 o'clock in the morning, and the curtains received the team to open at 13:50. You can use an alternative alarm clock, as an option.

If someone interested this part more than all - I apologize. But the topic is too extensive. Here and Tasker under Android with voice control, and Siri, and Domotixes with Broadinki and Mi-devices. All this can be applied, but describe in one review - no. I also spent the text bytes more than last three years.

Another version of execution.

Well, who has a desire to repeat yourself similar? If you want to repeat, but you have nothing to print anything, there is no desire to ride the fee, the soldering iron lent a familiar cryptoanalyst, that is, I have a recipe for you from cubes.

We are looking for in China any debug board on ESP8266, so that with soldering Pins and USB connector. There are all sorts of WEMOS, NodeMcu and the like, to your taste and cheaper. It is not very expensive than naked Esp07, in fact. Next, connect it with the driver board, which goes complete with a motor (sometimes does not go, look for the necessary lots). We flash the USB cable, as well as written earlier. Only Flash coppe is on the board or even work itself. All is ready. Affairs for 5 minutes, really. That's how then the motor is fixed specifically to your curtains - these are no longer my problems :)

Connect simple. 4 Inputs on the driver board (IN1-IN4) connect with Pimi D1, D2, D6, D7 (they can be signed like ESP, GPIO4, GPIO5, GPIO12, GPIO13). We connect strictly as hit. Then in the settings exhibit as it should. Plus and minus drivers Connectim to Vin (M.B. designated as 5V) and GND, respectively. Here already, if you confuse, do not fix in the software. Everything.

Plans.
To start finish the firmware. This process is eternal, so it did not pull the overview further. Plans to add MQTT, static IP, offline work on schedule. Something else, I do not remember. Then there are thoughts for the cottage to make autonomous food, there you can stupidly on the schedule of sunset sunset work. Or on photo passchik. There is also a thought to adapt the development for the projector screen. A more powerful motor will be needed.

But I'm already satisfied result. I hope someone else will come in handy. Much, for sure, I forgot to write. So in the comments I will try to answer.

Boring video. Removed for a mobile phone, sharpness constantly sailed, but I can not better :(

Update.. From the moment of publication, the firmware was significantly improved. Sources and binaries are still available on GitHube. Gradually completes separate. Whoever wants, can buy ready-made blocks. Add to favourites Liked +240 +439

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Roll sunscreen systems are often installed in residential areas. They perfectly protect the room from the penetration of sunlight, create an airbag, delaying cold air, while taking a minimum of space.

Designs look quite aesthetically and are appropriate almost in any interior. Roll curtains with electric drive are very easy to operate. Their kinds, features and mounting methods will tell the article.

By purchasing curtains rolled with electric drive, you can:

Rollpolig press buttonlocated on the wall block or on the remote remote control.
When installing in one room, several rolled curtain systems, arrange synchronization and centralized management process.
Use a timer. In this case, the rolled carriers can be configured to protect the room from overheating, when sun rays appear in it.

Regulate illumination and save electricity, with bright light lighting.

Roll curtain with an electric drive from a conventional rolled curtains in its design is not fundamentally different. The electric drive does not violate the appearance of the product and its design.

Features of automatic curtains and their types

Rolled blinds are installed in small rooms and in spacious premises of private houses, which is especially convenient when there is no need to spend time for manual adjustment of multiple systems. After programming, the device can be controlled in the complex by all windows or each separately.

Such constructions with electric drive have several more benefits:

The effect on the canvas, when controlling it with the same force, reduces the wear of the material and the fasteners.
The installation price of the system is not too high, especially when it is conducted.
Often this option is the only possible to control sunscreen filters mounted in hard-to-reach places: ceiling or mansard windows.
The mass of rolled curtains closing the overall windows is quite large. Manual adjustment is quickly tiring, it is better to initially acquire the design with an electric drive.
For swivel - folding plastic windows, a mini-row system has been specially developed.
The box and guide structures are painted or manufactured from laminated aluminum.
There are no control chains and other extra details.
Easy installation, without drilling a frame.
The built-in electromotor runs from voltage 12V. This is a reliable mechanism with a lithium battery.
For 5-6 hours, a complete charge of the battery is carried out from the 220V AU network.
Modern multichannel control panel.

Tip: Order adjustment of rolled curtains with a control panel, should be thought out in advance. It is easier to immediately mount a centralized system than to add the necessary functions then, which can lead to an increase in the risk of technical failures of the system.

Automatic rolled curtains can be controlled in two ways. Their features are presented in the table:

Management type	Features
	Curtain control is performed through a specially programmed remote. You can put a timer that gives the command to the command at a specific time. The system works on the principle as an alarm clock.
	To close / open the curtain enough, press the button installed next to the window, as in the photo.

A very expensive rollers with photocells, which very sensitively react to artificial or natural light, dropping or rising at the right moment are made.

Principle of operation and methods for managing rolled curtains with electric drive

All declared functions of automatic curtains performs a special engine. It leads to a movement pipe, which serves to wind the curtains cloth on it.

Tip: Before making the installation, it is necessary to carefully estimate the mass of the panel used. With too heavy tissue, covered with a small diameter of the pipe, it is possible to deform its walls, which will lead to a violation of the operation of the entire installation.

Models are produced where the motor is installed from the roll on the right or on the left, it eliminates the part of the technical risks.

When you click on the stationary button or on the control panel, the motor starts. It provokes winding curtains, or lowering the panels.

Tip: If automatic curtains create a lot of noise when working, it only testifies to the poor quality of the installation. The correct assembly of the design works quietly, not a disturbance of its owner.

The most popular control panels of rolling curtains with electric drive are presented in Table:

Brand of console	Features
	Works in a pair with a chip embedded in the device. Can transmit a signal through the walls, operates at a distance within a radius of 35 meters. Has a touch screen.
	The device has traditional buttons. On the blinds, the signal is transmitted by radio channels, which can be from 1 to 15, which depends on the radio character model.
	Roll curtains are triggered by pressing such a switch. In this case, no wiring is required - automation of the blinds is triggered at a distance.
	This is a classic version for the locale.

Installation of curtain with electric drive

Before proceeding with the assembly of blinds with an electric drive, it is worth looking at the video. Here you can get acquainted not only with the sequence of installation of finished products, but also the order, how to make an electric drive for rolled curtains yourself. This will help to avoid unpleasant consequences, due to improper installation, and unjustified costs.

Instructions for installing ready-made curtains with electric drive offers:

Unpack the blinds, cutting carefully, so as not to scratch the product, packing sleeve.
Attach the product with brackets for its attachment, to the place of installation and perform marking of the alleged points of fixing brackets.
The hole for one bracket is drilled, located on the side of the electric drive. Insert, if necessary, dowels. The bracket is screwed by screws.
The top pipe is inserted into the bracket side, where the electric drive is located, and aligned horizontally.
The second bracket is inserted into the pipe and placed the place of its installation. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a dense fit of the brackets to the pipe.
Pipe is removed.
The holes for fixing the second bracket located on the side of the sleeve, the dowels are inserted, if necessary.
The top of the bracket is not completely screwed.
The top pipe is inserted into the top tube side, where the electric drive is.
The sleeve is inserted at the opposite end of the pipe into another bracket, turning it a bit relative to the pipe.
Screw the bottom of the bracket is screwed.

Self-making design

The procedure for holding work is as follows:

The dimensions of future curtains are determined and the blanks are made. For this:

The window frame is measured - the length of the future curtains should coincide with its size. At the same time, the curtains can be large sizes. But no more than 12 cm.
The width of the frame should coincide the width of the blind. A 2 cm should be left for attacks.
Cutting material is performed on two patterns: one of them will be face; Another is invalid.
Patterns fold inside the face and stitch. The resulting billet turns out. The remaining hole is sewn in the bag.

Tip: When using ready-made curtains, they should be upgraded, including a rod of plastic into the mechanism.

Blinds are attached to a wooden bruus. Their width should be larger than the bar for 1 cm. Next:

The material for the curtains is sprinkled with an isolated.
At the top of the material, a minimum indent is made.
The prepared bar is stacked.
It is fastened to it tightly stapler.
It is necessary that the rake pulls the chart to which a small pocket is performed: the material must be wrapped at 3 cm; In the resulting pocket, the timber is done.

The electric drive is purchased in the store or going to do it yourself.. This will require: a bits extension, an electric screwdriver, feeding from three batteries.

Disconnect the battery compartment.
The feed wires are extended by 2 or 2.5 meters.
Reducer and electric motor are being finalized. This is necessary to install an electric drive in a limited space. The revision is to reduce the body of the mechanism.

The drive joins the blinds. The bits fastening extension is provided in a special seal. The regular plug is removed. In the end, the winding housing is installed, tight enough, the gland.

A special bracket is attached to the frame to fix the device. Installing the curtains is performed after mounting the engine, in a horizontal position. A reversing switch is mounted on the power supply, which manages the work of the collected design.

Tip: If the electric drive is made with a motor and a gearbox to find the desired model, it is necessary to take into account the speed and force of the shaft rotation. The power of the unit should be at least 12 W, and the rotational speed of the shaft is more than 15 rpm.

The engine is put in the plastic box. Cable is conducted. Installed buttons for controlling the design.

Several Councils of specialists for the correct installation of a curtain with an electric drive:

Purchase the Arduino module. The device can be operated by the module after installing a special program on it. This is especially convenient when installing systems for 2 or more windows. Light pressing the buttons allows you to set the desired closure / opening speed, raising the curtains in whole or in part, to carry out other necessary manipulations. In addition, the Arduino module allows you to program additional functions, such as security mode, which promptly notifies the module failures.

Leave the design control function manually. This will allow when the balance is violated to synchronize the operation of the system or use the curtains when disconnecting the motor, to replace it or repair.
It is necessary to take care of the mechanical part of the curtains from dust and moisture entering the room through a window or soot and a pair, for curtains in the kitchen.
Electric drive with time requires repair, it is impossible to glue plastic boxes where moving elements are located. To bind them to each other, you need to use brackets that can be deleted if necessary.

Curtain roller with electric drive is a step towards comfort and comfort in any house. The electric drive is spent significantly less forces and energy than when opening / closing the curtains.

The desire to equip the house is not always connected with the need to save at the work of a specialist or finished product. The craftsmen drives the desire to exceed professionals. And often they succeed, even in such difficult cases as independent manufacture of an electric drive for rolled curtains. new key for dough

What is the electric drive?

Installation of automatic shutters is recommended in large buildings, residential or non-residential buildings. This is necessary in order not to spend time on adjusting the entire system. Programming the device, you can manage all windows. In this case, each single window is adjustable regardless of others.
Automatic models have another undeniable advantage. Design wear is much slower, because when adjusting is always spent the same force. The electric drive curtains can cost much more expensive. In addition, it is necessary to pay the work of the master who will establish them if the buyer cannot do it independently.

Views

Linding 2 methods of control of automatic rolled curtains:

Remote. Curtains are controlled using a specially programmed panel. You can set the timer on the device, which will give the ability to give commands at a certain time. Such a system works on the same principle as the alarm;
Stationary. To bring such a mechanism to action, you need to click on a button that mounted next to the window.

The most expensive blinds are equipped with photocells. They persistently react to natural or artificial lighting, climbing and dropping at the right moment. There is an erroneous view that automatic curtains create too much noise when working. In fact, the presence of noise may indicate only low quality editing. If the design is installed correctly, the curtains will not disturb you.

There are other classifications for electric shutters, for example, at the place of installation:

Ventilation. They are installed in the ventilation system. Such curtains are often used in industrial enterprises to protect the room from extraneous noise or unpleasant odors;
For generators. We are needed in order to protect the generator from dirt and dust. Despite its name, this variety of curtains is actively used in everyday life. There are built-in and overhead models. This design is necessary where there are particularly high requirements for security;
External. The main function is to protect the premises from the penetration of unauthorized persons, that is, hacking. In addition, the model protects against low temperatures and direct sunlight.

In the manufacture of blinds at home, you can focus on the types of roll curtains with an electrical drive, the above. However, we should not forget that it is desirable to purchase ready-made designs for outdoor use. Roll curtains of their own production are suitable only for indoor use.

Do you need to be a professional?

Describing the automatic system with your own hands, not only a specialist with an appropriate formation can. The technique of collecting and installing is much easier than it seems. Master classes presented on thematic resources, and books on construction subjects indicate step-by-step actions. Nevertheless, the presence of certain skills is still necessary. If you have never had to carry out repair work, you should contact a specialist. This will avoid unpleasant consequences associated with improper installation, and unjustified costs.

Material for curtains

In most cases, high density fabric are chosen for the manufacture of blinds. However, other materials can also be used.

If the interior of the room allows, for the manufacture of the curtains will be used non-working floppy or CDs. Such an idea is suitable for a teenager's room, where excessive rigor will look inappropriate. In the interior involving informality, calendars or postcards can be used. Even the skin strips can come up.

First stage of work

If the decision to create a design with your own hands is already accepted, first of all, you need to decide on the size of the future curtains. To do this, measure the window frame, as the length of the future product should coincide with its parameters. Curtains may have large sizes. But the difference usually does not exceed 12 cm. The width of the blinds should coincide with the width of the frame. About 2 cm must be left for attacks.

When the material is cutting, you need to cook 2 patterns, as one of them becomes invalid, and the other face. Patterns fold the face inside and stitch. The resulting workpiece is turned. In the bag it is necessary to sew the remaining hole. If you wish, you can pick up different materials for each of the parties. But according to specialists, both billets must be made from the same material.

It is not necessary to make curtains yourself. You can upgrade ready-made, including a plastic rod into the mechanism.

The second stage of work

At the next stage, blinds need to attach to a wooden bruster. The width of the curtains should be 1 cm more than the length of the bar. Material for curtains should be spread up. At the top of the workpiece you need to make an indent of at least 5 cm. After that, the prepared bar is stacked. It is tightly attached to it. To secure, you can use the stapler. The rail must stretch the chart. In order for this to become possible, you need to make a small pocket. Material must be wrapped by 3 cm. In the resulting pocket, the timber is done.

Third stage of work

The electric drive can be bought in the store. However, some prefer to create it with their own hands. In order to assemble it yourself, you will need a bits extension and electric screwdriver. The last element is powered by three batteries. First you need to disconnect the battery compartment. Power wires need lengthening. They are increased by 2 or 2.5 m. Reducer and electric motor should be modified. The need for this appears due to the fact that the electric drive will be installed in a limited space. The essence of refinement is enclosed in reducing the case.

Fourth stage of work

Drive attach to blinds. The batch fixing extension is provided in a special seal. It is necessary to remove the regular plug. The first element is installed in the end of the winding housing. It is necessary to ensure that the gland in the end is reinforced tightly.

You need to attach a special bracket to the frame, on which the device will be fixed. For the initial fixation of the electric drive to the blinds, screeds are needed. Subsequently, the elements used for fasteners must be replaced with brackets. Installation is carried out in a horizontal position after the engine is mounted on its place. A reversing switch is located on the power supply. With it, it is managed by the work of the entire finished design.

The electric drive can be represented as a motor with a gearbox. To select the desired model, the shaft rotation force should be taken into account and speed. You need to purchase the unit, the power of which is at least 12 W. The speed of rotation of the shaft, according to experts, should exceed 15 revolutions per minute.

Next, the engine is installed in the plastic box. Then you need to hold the cable. The next step is to hold the buttons, which completes the process of manufacturing a curtain with an electrical drive. You can add the finished design using automation and stationary nutrition. The models that include such elements can move to the right / left, if it is a vertical model, or up / down, if the horizontal option.

Professionals are advised to purchase the Arduino module. Experts highly appreciate this device. With its help, control is not only the blinds, but also the gate, heaters and some other devices and devices. You can adjust the operation of the device using a module after a special program will be written for it. This is especially necessary in cases where the system will be installed on 2 or more windows. Lightly pressing the buttons you can set the necessary speed of closure or opening, raise the curtains in whole or in part, as well as carry out other necessary manipulations. The Arduino module makes it possible to program additional functions, among which the security mode should be noted. This feature is necessary in order to promptly notify that certain failures appeared in the module;

Leave yourself the ability to manage the design of the blinds manually. No matter how high-quality an electric drive mechanism, sooner or later, a failure may occur. Possible breakdowns for which a new drive will have to be installed. Manual control allows in the event of a balance disruption to synchronize the design of the structure. No dependence on the electrical drive allows you to use the curtains at a time when the motor is disconnected for replacement or repair;
Take care of the mechanical part of the design from dust and moisture that can fall into the room through the window. In the kitchen, the electric drive is subjected to adverse effects of soot and steam, which are allocated when cooking. The mechanism will be able to fail sooner or later. However, the period of his work can be significantly stretched;
curtains alone
Since the electric drive will in any case require repair, do not glue the plastic boxes in which moving elements are located. To bore them with each other, use brackets. You can delete them if necessary.

Curtains offer independently for test

Roll curtains with an electric drive - this is another step towards comfort and comfort in your home. Take care of their installation, you get the opportunity not to spend time on adjusting the mechanism. In order to make and install curtains yourself, it is not necessary to have a new key for the dough just be careful and pardon with patience.