Create imitation of water in the country area. Materials and tools Simulation Designing from what to make water imitation If there is no epoxy Object type Glue How to make artificial water for compositions

Water and liquids in MAY 7TH, 2011

source: http://women-on-line.ru/publ/kukolnaja_miniatjura/imitacija_vody_v_kukolnykh_miniatjurakh/59-1-0-514

Imitation of water in puppet miniatures

Usually, miniaturists use epoxy resin to simulate water and other liquids. If you have seen various drinks, shiny food sauces, raw eggs, soups or other liquids in puppet miniaturesAlso saw beautiful water effects in rail or landscape scenes, you may have looked at epoxy resin products.

When you prepare such a mixture, it hardens, will become shiny and durable. It can be poured into several layers to create an effect of deep water.

Only a layer of 3 or 6 mm of material can be pouring at a time. You will not be able to pour one thick layer of this material. For example, deep water can be made only in several layers.

What is a two-component transparent epoxy resin?

Two-component transparent epoxy resin is a glossy coating obtained from a mixture of epoxy resin and a hardener. You can buy it in business shops and building supermarkets. The main use of the material is resistant and strong glitter, after it hardens. A two-component epoxy resin is sold in a set (two jars: one with a hardener, and the other with epoxy resin). When these two components are mixed in equal amounts, the mixture is heated, then becomes gel, and then fully solidifies.

Paints, dyes and fillers can be added to the mixture in order to simulate colors and textures. Paints must be suitable for operation with epoxy resin. Other dyes can react with epoxy and destroy its normal properties.

Safe work

It is necessary to work with epoxy resins only in a well-ventilated room. You must avoid inhalation of vapors (a pair of epoxy resin is much easier than a pair of other chemicals, which are used to simulate water), and also desirable to wear when working with epoxy resin gloves and safety glasses to protect hands and eyes from random splashes. The product is implemented with accessible instructions for safe use.

This is not the product that children can use. Therefore, bottles with epoxy resin and the hardener should be kept away from children.

Medical or ordinary alcohol can be used to remove a spillable liquid resin from surfaces and tools.

Mixing

Two components must be completely mixed together in one container (which after work must be discarded). The material from which the container is made should not be reacted with epoxy. Good to work with miniatures Little plastic cups with measuring marks are suitable (for example, such are sold together with cough syrup), in which two components of the resin can be mixed. If you have nothing at hand, you can use one-time syringes in order to measure the desired amount of material.

Epoxy resin need to be mixed, thoroughly measuring the exact number of resin and the hardener (1: 1). This option is also possible: you measure the right amount of epoxy resin, pour out into a one-time cup, and then add a hardater to another cup to the same level.

When you have two equal portions, you will pour the epoxy resin into a cue with the hardener and thoroughly mix these two components with a wooden wand.

Then, when the components are well swept in the container, you overflow them back into the container, where there was an epoxy resin to make sure that you used the components in equal amounts, and what remained at the bottom of the first ass.

Removing bubbles

Mixing epoxy resin and the hardener will result in the formation of bubbles. If you are on the mixture, bubbles are filled due to the fact that carbon dioxide is present in your breath. If you fill out small bottles, jars, glasses, or jugs, leave epoxy for a few minutes so that gases come out of it before passing it into the one, in which it will harden.

Working conditions

Most epoxy producers indicate the time of approximately 30 minutes to the instruction until the resin becomes gel (this time depends on the room temperature). Most two-component epoxy mixtures solidify approximately 8 hours at 21 ° C. But they cannot be used with a room in the room about 50%, otherwise they can bother. The material has an expiration date, at least a year, if it is stored in a tightly sealed container. Products from epoxy resin yellowed if they are put up to direct sunlight.

Imitation of fluid with a two-component transparent epoxy resin

Epoxy resin settles in a flat surface. She slowly stretches down the walls of the ass. To make imitation of fixed water, you will need to apply the final alignment for its surface to remove the "protruding" edges that are formed after the mass flow through the walls.

Plan your job carefully. You may need to glue the items before pouring a resin into the bank. And also, may have to add details with each layer (for example, to make a realistic medium with fish or tadpoles at different levels, jars with fruits or vegetables that do not fall on the bottom).

If you have conceived to simulate a melting jelly, ice cream or spilled drink, allow epoxy resin to become gel, before pouring it. Thus, you will get a thicker layer than if you poured it immediately after mixing.

In order to make a wet trail or a puddle effect, but with that condition that then it will be necessary to remove this effect from the surface, pour the resin on the bent plastic surface. Restore the plastic from the "puddles", and then place the "puddle" on the floor in a dollhouse without pouring the resin to the floor.

There are other products that are suitable for the effect of running water better, and most of them can be combined with a solidifying two-component transparent epoxy resin.

Tips and prompts

Epoxy resins will not be easy to lag behind. Do not use them in order to make puppet jelly or other things that will need to be extracted from the molds.

Improper mixing will lead to the fact that the epoxy resin does not harden. Measure well before you mix.

When you fill a container with a small neck, fill it up drop from the tip of the pin or toothpick. Either use a disposable pipette or syringe.

Avoid working in a cold and wet room, otherwise the resin can be bold.

Use special paints to work with epoxy resin. Compatible paints are transparent or translucent, and colors can be mixed.

Some plastic parts can be dissolved in epoxy resin. Check if the paints or bases from the resin will not be ruled before working with them.

After in my blog, almost spontaneously laid out just liked the beautiful diorama turned into a permanent topic and work on the marine theme began to appear in it, readers are increasingly asking for water modeling technology. One of the ways suitable for small battleships, I have already been described. Today it was the second queue - for marine diras, as the same U-96 presented above. The master class holds Alexander Blokhin aka alex-goblin from the site vif2ne.ru.

The sea attracts his eyes. Pictures of great artists, photographs transfer to us only a short, almost elusive moment of all dynamics and endlessly changing beauty of the sea. But I want to constantly feel this moment. Funny, but the most thirsty of this spectacle - shipyards. After all, what is the model of the ship (aircraft, tank, etc.), if not the moment of the original life? And diorama? The most complex and more time-consuming aspect of models in all respects. It is necessary not only to "revive" the model, but also harmoniously arrange its diorama.
Manufacturing, or literary to say - imitation of the water surface on the marine theme diorama, often is a stumbling block from most models. And the case is not in the skills - just the materials themselves and their combination cause many questions. In the model literature and network there is a mass of tips. But in my opinion, most of them are quite labor-intensives, require certain skills in working with materials used and, which is important - no cheap in cash ...

My method is originally built on this last aspect. But, closer to business. For example, I chose work over the destroyer USS Leutze. The model on the waterline assembled from the cardboard and glued to the wooden board. (See Fig. 1-2). The surface is desirable not to handle. This is important for further operation. Given the "Line Layout of the Sea", I stick the body to the cardboard with a reserve of 4-6 mm. Borders Burn in the color of the Waterlinia.

Fig.2

Made a solution of plaster. It should be not too liquid, but not thick. Small spatula or stick I "smear" it on the surface of the board. Already initially submitting the general and desirable view created by the sea, I try to give the texture of small waves. Edaku Ryady. Pay attention - for the feed, this ripple must be more frequent. This is a kilvater trail. (See Fig. 3-5).

After drying gypsum - about an hour, painting begins. I usually use gouache and acrylic paints. (cm. Fig. 6-9). Morre is no single-color. From dark - blue with black additives, I turn smoothly to brighter shades. I add a little green.

In general, my advice is more often kept before your eyes while working photos or pictures with the image of the sea. Aivazovsky, for example. After painting, let me dry about 1.5-2 hours.

Then the most basic and responsible stage comes. For imitation of water directly, I use transparent silicone. Or, as it is called - "transparent building sealant".

Gradually, slowly, "smear" it is not thick - from 1mm to 3-4 mm on the surface. To do this, I use a small flat brush (see Fig. 11). It should be noted that the smears are not even uniform, but not chaotic! This is primarily due to the flow, the movement of the ship, the excitement - shorter the conditions in this task.

Many factors should be taken into account. Silicone coating is not worth tightening. After coating the first layer, I take a small piece of cardboard and, having dipped into machine oil (you can also use other types of those. Oils), "Smooth" unnecessary irregularities. The oil can be removed after the silicone froze.

You can start working with the second layer. In it, I try to give the main outlines and waveforms. Before applying it, I partially tapping a weakly divorced acrylic paint with the first layer. The sea must be multi-layered, so I try to give this effect. Again, a small flat brush "smear" waves wave (see Fig.14-16).

Then let me dry. White acrylic paint on the crests of waves rice foam. Also, then there is there, slightly give her the same bright strokes on the whole surface. (See Fig. 10 and 13).

Getting finished. Thin brush makes the addition of silicone. Especially carefully worrying Burun from the Forstevnya. As a rule, this is the "face" of the walking ship. Again, constantly crying with photos of the original or other images of ships. Silicone makes it possible to make it translucent and most reliable. On the crest of the rain, neatly tweezers "I mix" a piece of synthetic. Wats (see Fig.17).

In principle, everything. I do not give a specific instruction on working with instruments and material. It's like anyone it turns out. At the example of my work, I only tried to transfer my way of modeling the diorama of the marine theme.

Mix Instructions:

Before stirring, measure or weigh each component. In case of violation of proportions, the material is not polymerized

The ratio of components:

• by volume A100 - B100
• working hours: 12 hour
• full polymerization 24 hours

Application area:

To create decorative compositions (Icaban, aquarium), architectural layouts (water bodies).

The quality and stability of the color of the synthetic colors varies. Some stems can over time to "blees", creating, green or brown shades in the product. Clear Elegance is made to reduce this color selection. You can test the color stability of your stems, making a small product and watching the color change within a few weeks. If you are using the stalks about which it is assumed that they will allocate the color, you must be covered with a pre-transparent film. Give the film to dry before use in the product. Most aerosol coatings will work, for example, the clin. Also cover with a film all porous materials like a tree, stone or dried flower stems. Fitting air or moisture can cause bubbles when frozen.

• Make sure all containers and storage devices are clean and dry. Water, lubrication, wax or other foreign substances can cause reactions leading to the formation of bubbles or cracking. Use only metallic, plastic or rubber storage devices. Moisture in wet wooden spatulas will cause bubbles. Do not use paper glasses, there is moisture in paper and it can lead to bubbles.
• The substance in Clear Elegance is very sensitive to temperature. Do not climb the product if the product itself or temperature in the room is lower than 18? C or higher than 25? P. The warmer system or room temperature, the faster the product solidifies. Conversely, low temperatures slow down the hardening time. Do not exhibit in the sun when stirring or frozen. High humidity atmosphere can slow down hardening or lead to bubbles. Clear Elegance sets are packed with accurate proportions of components A and B (equal).
• Do not expose the product to extreme temperatures and do not leave in the sun. The substance will expand and decrease with extreme temperatures and can destroy the container and spoil the product. Do not leave Clear Elegance sets or finished products in places without temperature control.

Before the beginning:

Collect the necessary materials:

• Clear Elegance components. A (liquid rubber) and in (harvesting);
• Your flower combination;
• Plastic or metal spatula for stirring;
• Pure, dry vase;
• Clean glass or plastic container (large enough for mixture A and B and for stirring). Do not use foam or polystyrene glasses;
• A funnel (not obligatory, but useful for long narrowing VAZ);
• Rags or newspapers in order not to get dirty workplace;
• Film to keep the product together during solidification;
• Paper towels;
• You must be dressed in protective clothing, have rubber gloves and eye protection when working with this product;
• Means for washing windows, alcohol or mineral oils for cleaning.

Begin:

Step 1. Choose a workplace that is not in the sun, away from heat sources and cold and where the product will not touch within 24 hours. Protect the workplace by ripples or newspapers. The climb and dry the vase carefully, as small water drops can contaminate the product, or change its action.

Step 2. Pour the same amounts of components A and B in a clean glass or plastic container for measurements. Close immediately containers with component residues to avoid contamination. Do not use paper glasses. Stir carefully for 3 minutes. Careful stirring is necessary. Screw from the walls of the container when stirring. We recommend that you pour a mixture of Clear Elegance to another pure plastic container and stirred for the second time before pouring. This ensures that there are no unstable substances. Close the partially used containers tightly. As soon as factory containers with Clear Elegance are open, we recommend using them as quickly as possible. Frequent opening and closing of containers will lead to moisture contamination and will cause bubbles.

Step 3. Slowly pour Clear Elegance from the container to the Vase Center. Do not spray the mixture and do not leak along the walls of the vase. Slow and evenly leuta to avoid the capture of air bubbles. For large products, you can attach a transparent plastic tube to a funnel to facilitate pouring. Fill out until the required level.

Step 4. Put the product to a safe place and secure the film from above, if necessary. As soon as the product hardens, it will be constantly fixed.

Any changes in the composition must be made immediately after the air of Clear Elegance in the vase.

Step 5. Do not touch the product within 24 hours. Your composition is ready.

Cleaning: Clear Elegance is forever as soon as it hardens. Do not pour out residues in the sink. The remains must harden before they can be thrown out. Use paper towels, soap and water, alcohol, tool for cleaning windows or mineral oils. Wipe all the puddles and wipe all the ingredients. Wash your hands thoroughly.

A warning: Store materials in place inaccessible to children to avoid accidents. We recommend protective clothing, rubber gloves and safety glasses. Whether the work surfaces. Immediately wash your hands with soap after use. Store in a dry cool place, far from high temperature or open fire.

Good day!
I have long been trying to find materials and techniques for creating an aquatic surface, while trying to look for public materials
(including not expensive) and simple technologies available to modelists of any level. Over the past six months, I spent a small experiment and that's what happened.

Many modellers used to use, and many epoxy resins, including EDP (Dzerzhinsk), and similar analogues as imitation of the aqueous surface. For swampy or river water, they can come up, but for a transparent marine or running river, there is no, the whole thing is that these resins turn yellow and darken.

To simulate the surface of the sea or ocean, Vallejo produces color and transparent gels, they are applied with a brush. The price of these jars is approximately 500-600 rubles. Even buying one jar in Barcelona (Spain) the price turned out to be the same as in Yekaterinburg.

Here is an exemplary result of their use. The base is epoxy resin EMP, the coating of Vallejo gels. As we see the resin after 3 months began to darken, although at the stage of curing was transparent.

And I wanted to find the material for transparent water. It seems my dream came true - the company "Andrea Miniatures" releases a set of "Artificial Water"
- The same resin, but transparent, although for the year she slightly gave a yellowish tint, But it is not so critical.
Price for 250 gr. I cost 1,500 rubles - I think it is expensive for our brother modelist.
So I continued my searches and came across such resins as optical epoxy glue - compounds for bijourishing brand PEO-510 KE -20/0. There are several varieties, but I took this brand and Czech production to Epoxy 520 at the company. Both two-component (resin and hardener), transparent and sold in any container from 250 gr. up to 200 kg. Price in the area of \u200b\u200b1000-1300 rubles per 1 kg.

After examining on the company, samples of products made from these resins, I made sure that they do not darken and do not yellow. There are also plastic litea,
Including transparent, but according to the consistency, it is very thick and according to managers of the company, the bubbles without a vacuum chamber will be problematic. For figures, it can and will go, but for the water surface I think there is no.

Arriving home I began to make the layout of the water surface. He took the packaging from the cell phone and used it as a bath. On the bottom laid out a small marine pebble, a few stones and all this sat down with small marine sand. Under the stones put some drying grass, which was supposed to imitate algae. Heat resin up to 40 -50 degrees on a water bath began to add a hardener and a little bit of oil paint, to give the appropriate shade of seawater. After the thin first layer of "painted resin" began to harden, flooded to the edges of the bath already transparent resin without additives. That's what happened:

For more than three months have passed, but the resin remains transparent. I think for standing water this version of the experiment is suitable.
Further, I wanted to try to reproduce light waves on the surface, for these purposes in the art cabin acquired two types of transparent gels, one IDEA Midium production Italy, another Kristall Gel produced by Germany. Both gel are in one price Basket 350 - 370 rubles.

The Idea Midium gel when applied with a tassel gives a thinner layer (good for 350 and 72 scales) than Kristall GEL, which is more suitable for waves in 48 and 35 scales. Although with successful use of them, I think you can come to a good result. The photo shows how the gel on the glass lies.

So at first cover the surface of the Idea Midium gel, so that there would be a light marine ripple:

After 24 hours, we see this picture:

After covering the Kristall Gel with a thick layer, due to the fact that the layer turned out to be a really big gel dried throughout three days. In this case, I wanted to see how the gel behaves, if you try to imitate splashes from the rocky waves:

Trying white

One of the most nontrivial tasks in modeling railway layout is the imitation of various reservoirs: lakes, rivers, streams, waterfalls, sea coast, etc.

To create realistic water use a wide variety of methods. Unfortunately, many of them give very mediocre results. Perhaps there is nothing worse than using a simple piece of corrugated glass in the layout. In most cases, this will not imitation of water, but only its designation.

Many firms produce special materials for imitation of water, like a liquid for creating artificial reservoirs of the NOCH brand. However, the lion's share of such specials materials brings more harm than good.

Many of them do not frozen completely after applying to the surface, and remain sticky even a few days later. As a result, your artificial rivers and streams are assembled on their surface of all flies that flew to admire the layout.

There are no better things with materials that require warming up to go into a liquid state. You can imagine what they will turn into when hot summer days will come. In this case, it will take a well-conditioned room with direct sunlight protection to save the layout. Not every modelist can provide such conditions, and whether it is necessary to fuss so because of unsuccessful materials?

Another common problem is that dust accumulates quite quickly on the surface of miniature reservoirs, the initial gloss fuses and the characteristic brilliance of the water surface is lost. If "water" is made of solid material, you can simply clean it from time to time with a small brush or a bruster with a soft pile. But, from time to time, it will still have to update the glossy coating so that the water looks "wet."

As you know, the natural color of water is light blue. His she borrows at the sky, which is reflected in it. However, its appearance on the layout largely depends on the type of local soils and various reflections. For example, a plurality of rivers does not have a blue, but a very exotic shade. Traditional example - Huangh, yellow river. An equally bright example is the River Platt, which is located on the territory of the American states of Colorado and Cancer. Local residents say that it is too dangling for drinking and too small for shipping. Water in it has a characteristic green-brown shade.

There are often cases when the main part of the river is relatively clean, but in some areas, such as, for example, in the place of draining wastewater, some factory or at a merger point with another river, water changes its painting, and there are various color effects.

All these nuances should be considered when you develop a layout and plan to decorate with realistic reservoirs characteristic of chosen area.
To model such water bodies, you can use a number of effective techniques that give a very realistic result and allow you to avoid many problems that have been mentioned above.

Real Water.

Most models believe that real water is poorly suitable for the creation of water bodies, and in most cases it is difficult to disagree with them. However, this rule has rare exceptions. A bright example of the successful use of the real water is the famous Layout of the German Rügensche Kleinbahn Railway on the scale 009, which received a lot of awards at various exhibitions.

This diorama includes a rail ferry ferry, which is carried out according to the real water. The whole layout looks quite realistic, and water only adds to him attractiveness, not to mention the functionality.

The main nuances that have to take into account when working with real water are the correct coloring of the bottom of the river, as well as the tightness of the whole structure that does not allow water leakage. If everything is correctly organized, it may turn out a very interesting layout. The main thing is to provide a drain system in advance. In the same layout of Rügensche Kleinbahn, the bottom of the reservoir is equipped with a small rubber plug. At the end of each exhibition, water merges through it in a special container.

Still water

Getting Started to create a reservoir with standing water, you should first prepare its bottom, an arbitrarily coloring the surface with brown and green shades. The shores are modeled. For this, various water plants are suitable, such as coastal overgrown reeds and various types of moss. As mentioned above, we do not recommend using special materials for imitation of water. They, as a rule, require the mass of time for complete solidification, and most often remain soft and sticky.

It is much better to use a transparent two-component epoxy resin for these purposes, having a solidification period of about an hour. Epoxy resin is often part of the sets for aircraft modeling and is very reliable and durable material. A good alternative to epoxy resin is epoxy varnish. It is easy to find in building stores. For example, epoxy varnish Tikkurila, freezes a little longer resin, but it looks no worse.

First of all, fill the main volume of epoxy in the water. So far, "water" has not hardened, it needs to be carefully distributed and smoothed with the help of improvised tools, bringing to the desired shores. It is necessary that the surface is smooth, smooth, does not contain visible curvatures.

Next, we will need additional layers of epoxy to give the reservoir feeling of depth. In the process of laying the layers, it is necessary to ensure that bubbles are not formed in epoxy resin. It is desirable that each new layer is in a thickness of no more than 1 mm.

To demonstrate this method in practice, we apply it to the modeling of the old sea margin.

Pier modeling

The wall of the pier was modeled using materials from Wills Kits designed to create a step. Brickwork dock is very worn, as it is constantly used to unload coal. The top edge of the wall is at the level of the rail head. On the surface of the brickwork, you should schedule a tide line. However, seaweed and middi seashells should be applied only after mounting wooden beams.

If you want to ensure that the beams look really old and darkened from time to time, you can use a special enzyme ligninase for these purposes - it removes the lignin, which is the founding of wood, and contributes to its rapid rot. After careful treatment of wooden parts by an enzyme, rinse them well in water. After a while they will acquire the desired view of the old, half-grieving tree. If you use Balz as a material, we strongly recommend using an enzyme cellulase, which is actively destroying cellulose. Both of these enzymes are sold in specialized chemical reagents stores.

To increase realism, we recommend pre-done in the workpieces of wooden details of large cracks. You can also process their surface with a wire brush to make the surface of rough and achieve a characteristic effect of worn.

After the enzyme treatment, wooden parts are painted with matte black paint, and then treated with dry pigments of suitable shades. The tree is worth paining, mostly in brown shades, except those fragments that experienced the influence of wood creosote.

After the design is assembled, in a wooden trim, they are done with the help of a dental hook of holes from nails. Then the traces of rust are applied to the surface of the beams. On our layout, one belt belt broke, and the nails remained in a vertical patch.

Next to the surface of the pier are seaweed. Here you can use a thin strip of green ulv, passing around the border between water and land, coastal algae fucus (Fucus vesiculosus), as well as red algae (chondrus crispus) that are glued slightly below the level. So that the algae looked on the wall of the pier is realistic, you need to place brown algae slightly above the water level.

First we appline a thin strip of PVA for green seaweed. In order for the strip to be smooth, you can attach a brush with glue to a piece of wood appropriate height and navigate when applied to the edge of the pier. No need fatty layer of glue - several good smears are enough. Next, lay the foundation on the side and apply the mixture to simulate the Blended Turf from Woodland Scenics. In our case, this is the most suitable shade.

As soon as the previous layer is driving, cover arbitrary fragments of the wall with a thin layer of PVA. We apply a small-sulfuric gray foam on it. We return the basis into a horizontal position and gently recall the Mix of PVA and the gray foam using a soft wet tassel. At the same time, unprocessed fragments should remain on the wall, in order not to disturb realism.

After complete drying, the surplus of the upper layers can be removed using a dental hook, and then handle the surface of red-brown paint in detail. In some places you can use various shades of gray. Also brown is suitable for the color of the "seabed".

If you want to imitate the seashells of mussels, we recommend using a small round grain, partially painted in a matte black and glued in the right places.

In the green and gray tones "Sea bottom" can be painted even before drying the previous layer. If you plan to use a transparent coverage for water, you should consider that the depth of water in this place is very small, and the ships constantly rub the bottom of the bottom, leaving deep markings. Some of them can be well distinguishable by representing a killeprint or a track from the steering wheel. Where Kiel conceded the bottom along the entire length, it is worth applying more dark lines.

The water itself is imitating using a two-component epoxy resin. It freezes to a solid state for only two hours and serves as an excellent basis for the following layers. You can smooth it, applying a little epoxy to algae to imitate moisture. On top of the base, we recommend putting three more layers (each 1 mm in thickness). You can also imitate sea ripples, processing the upper layer with a brush until the resin starts to stick.

Fast rivers

Simulation of rapid flows We will look at the example of a small English river, East Lin.

East Lin is a very pinch river, especially in the rainy season. During the spring spill, the riverbed is filled with trees trunks and large boulders. Some of the shores carry traces of destruction. Pebbles accumulates on the bends of the bed.

First, the river bed is covered with a layer of PVA. On top of it, we smell a layer of rubble from the Woodland Scenics set. Crushed stone placed directly in the river bed, pressing the pebbles into the glue.

Next, stain in the car in authentic tones (the shades of brown with small splashes are recommended) and let him dry. Then there is the first layer of "water". To do this, use a transparent two-component epoxy resin. The shores and pebbles should be applied until the epoxy resin has not dried yet.

The shores are simulated using a putty (we recommend using the Polyfilla putty), and the vertical surfaces are sprinkled with rubble and sea moss, which imitates the roots of trees and shrubs.
After all the components are placed in their places and painted, the upper layer of the river can be provided with various irregularities to achieve the impressions of the rapid flow.

In the sets of Woodland Scenics there are a number of different "water effects", but, in our opinion, most of them do not provide realistic gloss. Therefore, we will also consist of a two-component epoxy resin for the last layer. As soon as it starts to stick, the surface can be treated with a dental hook, adding a white gloss, imitating foam and movement. Alternatively, a transparent silicone sealant is suitable, which is easily molded according to your preferences.

The rapid stream can be imitate using a mixture of PVA and a small amount of liquid white paint. With its help, you can imitate foam in those places where the water rushes on the boulders.

Waterfalls

Woodland Scenics sets have their own waterfalls. See how they look, you can fly on the following video:

However, we will try to make a realistic waterfall on their own.

To do this, take a transparent silicone sealant and mix it with a small amount of liquid white paint. Then we stretch a small piece of food film on a smooth level surface, we applied to her painted sealant and begin to smooth it into length. Further, the resulting strip of sealant to achieve the desired effect. You can experiment without fears, since this material is very cheap. You can even prepare several options. After that, we give sealants to dry carefully (it will take about 12 hours).

Now neatly glue the frozen sealant from the food film and attach it to the desired surface with several drops of liquid sealant. As soon as the waterfall turns out to be in the right place, cover its upper part with a thin layer of liquid transparent sealant with the addition of white sealant. Further follows the stage of artistic processing, during which we imitate realistic splashes and foam at the bottom of the waterfall.

As soon as it can dry, you can apply the additional layer of two-component epoxy throughout the surface of the river. In this case, it is possible to use epoxy varnish, overlapping it with a smooth layer from the beginning of the river - through the waterfall - to its very end.

Sea or waves on the lake

The sea is attended on railway models not too often, and its imitation is associated with some difficulties.

For modeling the sea coast, the texture coating for walls and ceilings is best suitable (for example, "Teraflex"). This material is usually used to create decorative coatings of any texture, including with different patterns. Tell articles on construction topics are devoted to texture coatings. Therefore, we will not describe working with them here.

The textural coating is superimposed on the layout with a spatula and then shape to achieve the effect of the surf. After the base is frozen, it can be painted in its taste, and then cover with glossy varnish.

So, we made sure that the modeling of water is a very interesting task, which is easy to decide, guided by simple methods. We hope that this article was useful to you.

Successful to your practice, and to new meetings!