Druple. Drinking how to properly insert a pylon in hand jigsaw

Electrolzik -universal tool. It is able to replace the hacksaw, a grinder, a mill and even a circular saw. They can handle a wide variety of building materials - wood, metal, ceramics, laminate, glass, plasterboard, tile, plastic and many others. However, it is important for the correct functioning of this device to know how to properly insert the pylon into the electric bison. For each specific case, a certain pedal or canvas is selected.

How to fix the pink

Any wizard faces that he will replace the saw blade. There are different situations: either the cloth is short-lived, or it is necessary to produce various operations.

The easiest way to fasteners is the use of locks, secure which you can use the key. The optimal option for such an attachment is an electrobrice, having one screw side. This is a reliable way to fix crafts of any thickness and type.

At the moment, there are many models that attract their available cost, except that the pedel is pressed with a special block with a slot. For tightening such a pad, two screws with frontal arrangement are provided.

However, during the installation of the canvas may occur certain difficulties. For example, the cutting part in the jigsik can be inserted correctly, but it will be offended by unevenly - as a result, there will be a skewer during operation. The second situation - the lock can be jammed when removing the web. Another possible problem is to break the screw threads or the result of the front pad (it happens if the pylon is incorrectly fixed, which during operation will be fed to the material being processed).

The most convenient that jigsik, in which the fastening system is quick-release. But in this case there is a certain disadvantage, which consists in the fact that the thickness of the clamping canvases is strictly limited.

Feature of the quick-swap mounting of the canvas

To implement such a clamp there are many ways. The difference with the "classic cartridges" is that there is no versatility. That is, the pill must have the same shank. In addition, there will be a backlash. As a rule, it is not particularly important, as you can choose the optimal canvas. If you fix the pot between the axes of the electric jigsaw, the backlash will not interfere with efficient operation, since it is usually a longitudinal shape.

The pink itself is very simple. It should be noted that the electrolovka with an unbroken web can make quite complex variants of bends. This is achieved in the following ways:

In the process of sawing, it is better to turn the tool or the board to the same side.
Some electrolovics are equipped with a scroller - a special device that allows you to rotate the saw in the process (the position of the tool itself does not play the roles).

The scroller on the electrolovka looks like a handle located on top of the housing. The blade can be inserted into the tool in four positions. When the blade turns, it is necessary to pay attention to one nuance - the pressure on the canvas should only be on the rear edge, especially in the process of rotation. If you do not take into account this moment, the pedel after time can be distorted and deformed that ultimately lead to it.

In a word, the Pillet is quite easy to put in the jigsik, and even a novice worker can cope with the replacement. However, there are several ways to establish a drink in an electric jigneus, which depends on the tool itself with which to work.

Lobzik is a tool familiar to many men since childhood, from school lessons of labor. Its electrical option is currently one of the most popular hand tools that greatly facilitating the work of homemade masters. Unlike a manual saw, this electric device needs more close attention, especially the most important element is a movable node with a removable saw.

What could be a pilkey holder?

The filling rod of the fuel jacket is joined by a pilkey holder - one of the most vulnerable parts of the aggregate. It is the holder for the blade that is experiencing the greatest load in the process of operation of the device, especially suffering this device when using a linen with faded teeth that inexperienced masters are allowed.

The material for this detail is supposed to be the highest quality, but not all manufacturers think the same way. Often it is the pilch holder first requires repair or replacement. Modern manufacturers of power tools are constantly working on improving this node.

This led to a wide variety of pilkey holders used for electrolls.

The earliest design is a clamp-block on bolts. Although many firms have long gone from such an option, the model where this archaic mount is still found. Bolts on such a pad two. One clamps the canvas, and the second allows you to adjust its position.

When installing or disassembling the saw blade, unscrew or twisted both bolts. Their heads are made under a flat screwdriver or under the hex key. For such pads, the shape and thickness of the saw shank often does not matter. There are models and with one bolt. You do not need to regulate such a retainer, the pink is simply clamped by turning the bolt.

Flexible fastening is installed on most modern models of electroballs. Pressing the special key releases the clamp, and the canvas easily leaves the mount. The same manipulation will allow you to easily insert the pink into the slot. Such a device does not need to be adjusted, it is devoid of bolts. This type of fasteners is divided into two subtypes, along the position of the movable key: side and frontal.

Radial clamp is a type of quick-sample fastening.In the aggregates, equipped with such a node, insert the pink even easier. The device must be rotated 90 degrees, insert the pink into the slot and release, under the action of the spring, the clamp will return to the initial position and automatically captures the shank of the canvas. All speed fasteners have a strict restriction on the thickness of the canvas and the form of its shank.

Some craftsmen prefer to make this node with their own hands, trying to increase its work time. Indeed, it is not always possible to buy a detail of the same quality. Make a pilkey holder-block can be from the steel bar with a length of the face no more than 2 cm. For work, the following tools are needed: drill, hacksaw for metal, Bulgarian, vice, precise roulette, calipers.

Using the old item, you need to try to copy it, making improvised bar from bar. If there is no skill in such a job, it is better not to spend time, and the old pilkey holder and the workpiece to show the experienced master. If nevertheless decided to do on their own, bring patience and just in case you cook another pair of blanks.

When replacing the pink in the electrolybiz, you should pay attention to the state of the attachment node - the most vulnerable part of the entire instrument. Over time, lights may appear, the beyon of the canvas, the displacement of the cut from marking.

All these signs indicate a brewing problem with fastening and it is better to find out their cause at an early stage.

How to insert a drink in an electrolovka?

Electric jigsaw - tool is not so old, it is about 30 years old. Little changed constructively, he rather far away from the prototype in terms of convenience and power. The most upgrades were the restraint of the mounting attachment. Krappling - the knot is quite simple and insert a pink into it is usually not difficult, especially since its shape of its shank and thickness for such attachment absolutely do not matter.

To put a drink to the block, you need to slightly weaken counterclockwise both mounting bolts. The canvas is inserted into the teeth forward, then alternately, the bolts are evenly tightened. It is necessary to monitor that there is no breakdown. Tightening needed quite strongly.
If one screw is on the saw-container, then it will also be easy to change the pinks, you need to pull up only one bolt. To properly install the cloth, you need to check its position from time to time, slightly adjusting your hand. Tightening to failure is not recommended, it creates an excessive vibration and can affect the quality of cutting.

In the quick-release devices, replace the pink is even easier: by pressing and holding the key, insert the shank of the corresponding saw, release the key. If a click will be heard, the shank was fixed with a pilkey holder.
Radial mount is no less simply in circulation. If the electrolybiz has such a fixation option, then when installing the saw blade, it is very important not to confuse the shape of the shank. Currently, the industry produces a filling with two types of shanks: T-shaped and U-shaped. The first version of the pyline is currently most common. The U-shaped shank has an additional hole for fixing the canvas.

The electrolovka canvas are divided into several basic types, which can be defined in the form and size of the teeth, as well as with the help of marking. Different milks make it possible to successfully cope with cutting wood (boards), plywood, chipboard, plastic, metal, tile, drywall, glass.

Wooden blanks are sawing with a long sheel with a magnitude of teeth from 3 to 5 mm, with a noticeable divorce. On such saws, HCS marking, as well as additional - T101D, indicating the large size of the teeth.
The metal can be cut by a shorter saw with a teeth of 1-1.5 mm and a wave-like wiring, the HSS marking and the T118A index will also help in choosing a saw.
For laminate, the canvas with a counterclothing are developed.

In the marking of such a pink there will be the T101BR index, the last letter indicates the opposite position of the teeth.

Plastic saws with canvas with an average magnitude of teeth (up to 3 mm) having a small wiring.
Special canvas for ceramics do not have teeth at all, they cause a carbide spraying.
There are universal caps, cutting basic materials, but, of course, such products are not suitable for any work.
Models for figure cut have a small width and index T119BO.

When operating the saw blades, it is impossible to forget that this is the consumable material and spend time to make the fascinated teeth, it makes no sense. Introducing the pylon must be replaced.

How to insert into manual junk?

Manual jigsik - a tool for a long-mastered joiner, its design is honed for years of operation and has become the most simple as possible. Problems with its use and, accordingly, the replacement of the pilel is significantly less than with an electric disease. Silent canvas for this tool, as well as for the electrolovka, is a consumable material. It is not repaired and not sharpened.

The most problematic place is, of course, fastening the peel. It must be installed without skew. When fixing the web must be provided with a dense clutch with a clamping bar. Teeth of the saw blade when installing must be directed to the instrument handle. Replacement or installation of the canvas in the manual jigsaw is required quite often.

In order to install the Pillet into the Lobzik holders, it is necessary to fix the edge of the pink on one of the ends of the handle. Then, slightly compressed the edge of the handle (sometimes you have to lean on them weighing your body), insert the second edge of the peel.
The carriage is inserted with one hand, the other at the same time need to screw the lambs. For a more durable connection, if there is not enough muscular strength, it is necessary to use pliers, in which case the main thing is not to thread the thread.
You need to change the pink in the reverse order. If the cloth broke, clamp the edges of the handle, of course, do not need. Having looseling the carrying fasteners, it is necessary to pull the linen fragments alternately.

Sometimes after a long operation, it is necessary to replace the mount. Remove this node from the jigsaw is easy - all the same las are turned away.

There are manual jigsaws not with flat, but with a tubular handle. Get the Pillet from such a tool is extremely harder. For such jigsaws, a simple device is invented. Two holes are drilled on the surface of the workbench or epippler table.

The edges of the handle are inserted into them, and the pink is tightened with clamping straps.

Installation in the Lobzic Machine

Stationary jigsaws (frosic machines) - the result of the natural development of electrical hand tools. When working with such an aggregate, both hands of the wizard can carry out manipulations with the material, which significantly improves productivity and facilitates work with dimensional blanks.

For such electrical appliances, special canvases are used, although the craftsmen sometimes fit the canvas of the hand jigsaw. Pintthews have a special pin at the end, which makes the fastening more reliable. Peremtypta, respectively, special devices do not have and remain flat. The canvas can be with a divorce of teeth and without it.

Install the pylon in the machine is actually quite easy.

The saw blade is fixed in special grooves, first in the lower, and then in the top. The teeth of the canvas are directed down and toward the pillet. Tightening the canvas need a lever, the stretched leg should be ringing off.
Beschaft peckings need to be tightened especially carefully, they tend to popping out of the clamping device, however, remain popular, thanks to the wide use of products for sawdust in the form of products.

Possible problems

The electrolovka is a fairly reliable electrical device, all its nodes during normal operation can work for quite a long time without any interference or interference. But the holder of the pellets, even with the most careful handling, is doomed to breakage and ultimately the replacement, not to mention the saws, the replacement of which is the natural and necessary event.

The electrolybiz came to us from Germany (from him. Laubsage). Initially, it was a hand-held tool with a replaceable saw blade, intended for curvilinear sawing, progressive movement, plywood and thin boards, etc. Materials on an internal, closed contour. There were many types of jigsaws. Mostly junk was used on a fleet.

Today, the jigscription is a highly technological hand tool that uses a pneumatic or electrical drive. Modern technologies have improved the electrolybiz by adding built-in protection tools, electronic speed adjustment, vibration and noise levels. As a rule, the electrolybiz has a touch protection, installed above the support plate, protecting from random touch of a saw blade.

Electropolitanzik It is a saw with a reciprocating movement of the saw blade (working body). It has a ski for the direction of the working body when moving along the surface being processed and performs reciprocating movements with a frequency of up to 3000 oscillations per minute.

Electrolzik is perfect for direct, curvilinear and mortise propyl, To cut the circles of various diameters (with a radius of at least 15 mm) as well as for rectangular cuts and saws. It allows you to handle any material - wood, stone, plastic, steel sheet, ceramic tiles.

Depending on the fashion fastening saw The electrolybiz can be three types: for saws with a cruciform shank, with a smooth shank and with a shank having a hole.

When ", pay attention to its characteristics: if the lowest frequency of the chapels of the saw blade is less than 1000 per minute, then plastic, for example, it will not be able to saw. Also, the electrolybiz is characterized by its power electric motor. Other parameters affect the performance are dependent on the capacity - the maximum depth of propyl, the cutting speed of various materials. Because when operating the electrolovka is kept by one hand, its weight is important. Electrolzik can have adjustable electronics, ensuring the constancy of the installed frequency of moves at different loads and cutting of various materials.

Modern electrolybiz - Very democratic and universal "assistant." With a large or less success, this modest worker, created to solve only one task (curvilinear cutting of thin materials), is able to replace:

mill - curvilinear drinking, inserting uncomplicated elements, open joints of the type of spike-groove;
manual knob - cutting and fit on the site not too massive sawn timber;
sabelnaya Pill - fitting the mounted lumber near the joints, at the height and in other cases where the manual hacksaw is inconvenient;
corporal Machine - cutting not too massive blanks made of metal, cutting of tin, tile, sheet materials based on cement;
circular saw - longitudinal cutting of sawn timber, plywood, chipboard (including laminated);
chain saw - cutting on wood waste and latitive branches / stems.

In the preparation of this article, the Material and Technical Base served us by the Moscow Tulcenter company TTS Tultehnik System, representing the Festool and Protool technique.

Purpose

The above-mentioned "non-core" operations are performed by a jigsaw with a number of restrictions, sometimes very significant. However, when there is no listed arsenal at hand, such reflections are unlikely to be relevant. Talking about the methods of application Let's start still with those work to which the tool is originally designed.

In modern construction, leafy materials are very popular: plasterboard, acel, laminated panels; Often there are artificial analogues of "Wallowing" - panels from vinyl, MDF or metal. In these cases, emptiness remains behind the finish layer, which makes it possible to use in large numbers all sorts of built-in elements (lamps, switches, sockets, etc.). Place them more convenient when the material is already mounted. This is useful to the jigsaw - with it carefully and quickly drink holes of any shape.

With similar problems, collectors of kitchen furniture are faced: they often have to cut holes in the tabletop under the sink, mount the blocks of sockets on the decorative panels, to make "moves" for eyeliner and flow.

The elements of the interior and the details of the furniture also require rounding, and if there will help a tempryer with a template and / or a band saw, then a homemade craftsman or a novice master without a jiggy cannot do. When it comes to work on the road, the temptation is greatly replaced by a circular saw - in some cases it is successful.

Acting a jigsaw, no templates are used, mainly relying on marking. This has its own "plus" (less preparatory actions) and its "minus" (above the responsibility of the operator). However, the most serious danger that seesing the user is not connected with the "coursework resistance", but with a cross-lifting of the canvas from the vertical. For an inexperienced person, this is often a surprise: from the upper side of the workpiece, the cut is accurately along the line and it is difficult to find fault in quality, whereas the "wave" appears from the bottom instead of a straight line (characteristic of circular cuts). Another problem is relevant only in some cases - chips on the front surface of the workpiece. These two tasks are solved by similar methods: the selection of the pink and the operating mode. Let's start with the second.

Adjustments

Modern jigsaws are usually equipped with three adjustments. First - tilt sole - It is used extremely rare, because where the use of the electroll bias is most appropriate, there is no need for oblique cuts in most cases.

Second adjustment - frequency moves - Need to adjust the material. When working on wood in the overwhelming majority, it must be maximal. Only sometimes it is reduced when it requires too narrow canvas, inclined to overheating, or when it is convenient to the master. When acting with ceramics or thick metal, the transition to medium and low speeds is inevitable.

The third setting is responsible for the amplitude of the pendulum stroke of the canvas. Once lobzika rod I made strictly vertical movements, and for a long time it satisfied users. Later, the kinematics of the instrument was finalized by adding longitudinal, small amplitudes to vertical oscillations. As a rule, the supporting roller and the return spring corresponds to the "podachka". If the mechanism is turned on, the web will be slightly fed down when the up and slightly move back to the down. This contributes to the best removal of sawdust from the area of \u200b\u200bthe cut and more productive "turning" of the teeth at the work course. At first glance, such modernization seems not too significant. However, our experiments show that this statement is true only for the case of the most subtle billets (plywood, MDF, tin). When sawing thick, performance varies several times. It is worth surprising that at the moment the models without a pendulum movement on the market almost left.

But no good without loud. With the slope of the web forward, it is experiencing additional loads that provoke lateral bending and departure plane from the vertical. In addition, solid materials (ceramic tiles, thick metal) require a strict vertical stroke of the peel. Therefore, the "swaps" mode always turn off, moreover, in most cases, the amplitude of the longitudinal oscillations is stepwise adjustable from zero to maximum. The last property is often presented as important advantage, but experience shows that it usually has two extremes.

Sales adjustment of pendulum stroke Usually does not affect anything, but not in the case of import tools of the lowest price class. They have a defect that leads to a spontaneous transition from the upper positions (the fourth and third stage) to the lower (third and second). Check the tool is easy - it is enough to turn on the "podach" to the maximum and drink a thick blank with a decent pressure.

So, how to set up a jack? First you should make sure the soles are perpendicular. It happens, the clip does not provide rigid zero fixation in general or with sufficient accuracy. Next, it all depends on the material and tasks: wood - maximum frequency of moves, tin - maximum or slightly lower, thick metal - medium or low, ceramics - low or minimal. If it is necessary to qualitatively cut a massive (10-20 mm) blank or laminated plates, as well as when working with ceramics or thick metal, the zero amplitude of the pendulum movement is set. If you need to perform not very responsible cut, the amplitude of the swaps put a maximum - so it will go faster.

However, the adjustments help only partly, the nuances are of great importance. lobzik designs And, of course, the masters skills. For example, it is quite realistic to improve the quality of the cut and avoid chips on the front surface, if you do a jigsaw top, and the leaf below. It is not so comfortable, but it is possible to control the verticality of the saw. In addition, chips will be off the inside. By the way, it is precisely such a way of work that we are obliged to the appearance of the mushroom form of the handle: to act like a "brace-shaped" junk is extremely difficult.

Nuances design

The most common jigsaws arranged as follows: the rod inside the gearbox is fixed in the guides providing some freedom of longitudinal movements, and springlane (seeks to take a vertical position). If you delay it behind the bottom of the barrel, it will lean forward. The plug of the support roller is as low as possible (as far as the geometry allows). The roller gives the design an additional side rigidity due to the groove, where the feet is located. In the "swap" mode, the fork through the pusher acquires a reciprocating movement and, acting through the roller on the canvas, causes pendulum fluctuations in the system of the web rope.

The advantage of such a design is simplicity (no settings when switching from some pylons to others are not needed). In mode with "swap", such jigsaws provide a good quality of the cut, since the support roller presses to the canvas in the best possible way.

There are several flaws. First of all, the roller does not guarantee a really high transverse rigidity to the canvas. Both fork, and roller - moving parts and therefore have transverse backlats (by the way, when buying a tool, be sure to pay attention to their value). The groove profile is fixed and cannot be optimal for cloths of different thickness and geometry. Finally, the round roller implies that the lower point of fixing the pink is at a certain distance from the surface.

Increase the characteristics of such logs - the task is solved. The main attention is required by a roller and fork. First eliminate all of them cross backlash, picking up the washers and fading the details. An additional low-locked point of attachment of the canvase is obtained in two ways. The first - the jigsaw is fixed on the table equipped with a guide fork (not always feasible, because it is often not a machine, but a mobile tool). The second is made and installed an anti-slip liner, which is exactly the applied by the canvas. It is clear that it is not able to resist wear for a long time - the liner quite quickly loses the ability to maintain a pylon in the transverse direction.

Another type of design does not have such widespread and in our market is presented with jigsaws Festool (Germany), Rebir. (Latvia), " Fiolent."(Ukraine) and" DOLD"(Russia, Smolensk). Their kinematics is generally similar to the above, the difference is only in the method of transverse fixation of the canvas. The supporting roller is installed here in a normal place or on the rod and meets only for the longitudinal position of the peel. The lateral rigidity gives the stationary attached plug (Festool and Dion - on the case, in the rest - on the sole). Of course, in all respects, the Festool design leads: the plug is equipped with carbide attacks, its width is precisely regulated by tightening or loosening only one screw, and the mounting to the body allows you to tilt the sole without knocking down adjustments. Dion is formed by two steel pins, not regulated and needs lubrication. The remaining two tools are inconvenient to the complexity of the accurate setting, which is also knocked down and is required at each slope of the sole. However, any of these logs with due regulation is able to show high quality cut. To achieve this on the instruments of the first group is real only by painstaking refinement and preparation for the operation.

Mansion stand, for example, electrolovka Kress. – CST 6286 E. and 650 SPS.. The peculiarity of their mechanism is that the two rod guide sleeves are rigidly mounted in the part axis, the lower part of which serves as a fork of the supporting roller. Thus, the rod, the canvas and roller swing absolutely synchronously. At the same time, the pedel is experiencing smaller than usual, the load in the "paging" mode of the canvas, because in the remaining described designs of oscillations per rod (spring-loaded and rather inert) transfers it. The lack of a mechanism is that the mutual location of the lock and the roller is fixed, and some canvases will be worse than maintained. The main advantage is durability and durability.

Talk about O. lobsikov without pendulum There is no way of meaning - there are practically no market. In addition, even the most high-quality models of such tools often can not qualify for the title "Successful purchase". Let us dwell only at one of the differences: in some cases, the plug of the supporting roller is attached to the case with the same screws as the sole. It is bad because the position of the roller will have to configure with each adjustment of the plate.

Pon briefs

Best anti-slip liner - The one that exactly corresponds to the thickness and position (depends on the tilt plate) of the peel. For Festool jigsaws, specially supply blanks, allowing you to make an ideal option for each canvase. The presence of such a part completely eliminates the chips and at some time increases the resistance of the peel to the lateral injections.

Fastening the Piller

From the features given above, key tool properties depend - accuracy and performance. Now let's talk about others affecting the convenience of use. During the operation, you will most likely have to change the canvas.

This is not due to their non-dedication, but with the need to perform differential operations.

Let's start with a simple case - locks clamped by the key. The most optimal, but, alas, not the most common option is one screw on the side. In such a "patron", the canvases of almost all thicknesses are reliably fixed, and in some cases - and types, moreover, it is simply (the screw is only one).

Most inexpensive models Pink presses pad with a slottightened by two front-aligned screws. Compatibility from a similar system at the height, but with the rest worse: for example, the unevenly clamped fasteners cause distortion. (Paradoxically, but sometimes it turns into dignity. Let's say if the rod twisted or was the curve "from birth", some degree of freedom allows to correct the situation.) For such locks, there are no uncommon cases, when the web cannot be removed by the "easy hand movement". Blowing the face of a blank appeal, sometimes result in the front block breaks into two parts or a thread of screws is broken.

Most comfortable jigsaws - with fastening fastening system. Implementation schemes are a huge variety. The lack of versatility is distinguished from the "key cartridges" (suggestion with a shank of only one firm) and the presence of some backlash. In most cases, this is insignificant, since the deficiency of the canvas is not observed. As for the backlash, it is usually longitudinal and does not affect the work of the jig.

Laptop locks have only one disadvantage - a constraint of the thickness of clamping canvases. However, if the purchased "spending" does not "exist", the position is easy to correct, "Schlifanov" the shank is suitable for this tool. Clamps, similar to the fact that Festool is much less common. Their dignity is universality (there are no restrictions on the thickness of the shank). On the other hand, they have lower fixation stiffness (at least Festool).

Methods of fastening the pink

Festool Lobzik



	4. Rotating the adjusting screw, adjust the cloth fixation plug. You can act, controlling the process visually, and you can - tightening the screw to the end, and then slightly weakened

Lobzik Kress.



	4. The thickness of the shank, clamped with a caliper - 1.7 mm. It was not possible to establish it, but another file (1.5 mm) was mounted without problems

Pilk

Their correct choice is sometimes crucial. They differ in teeth (shape, step and wiring) and material.

Teeth: The greatest degree of the quality of the cut depends on the teeth step and their wiring.

For work requiring a particularly clean saw, without saclis of the facial surface, use the canvas with a reverse toe (they are "bungled" into the workpiece when the down).
The tasks of the opposite character are coarse, but fast sawing - solved with the help of "spending" with large and widely divorced "cutters".
Similar appeals, but without wiring, are also produced and will be comfortable for thick blanks - they will lead them less from the vertical.
Complete the speed and quality of the cuta allow the blade with variable teeth. From above, closer to the front surface of the workpiece, the step is small, and it is enlarged by the book.
When it comes to thin sheets, it is important to consider the following empirical rule: the teeth should be such that in the gearing simultaneously there are at least three. It is especially important to observe in the case of metal blanks.

MATERIAL: For most works are well suited homogeneous canvas, but in special cases used heterogeneous. The most popular of these - bimetallic. They are pretty expensive, since it is more complicated in the manufacture, but they have a number of unique qualities. Their teeth, made of solid metal brands, are able to cut not only wood, but also steel, plastics and other materials of high strength. Interestingly, the carrier strip in bimetallic canvases, on the contrary, is militant than usual. This reduces the likelihood of breaking the pink (if necessary, it can even be bend, that in some situations it turns out to be quite by the way).

For work on ceramics, glass and other similar materials use the canvas with diamond spraying and carbide attacks. Such militants easily cope with wall tiles, but especially strong varieties of outdoor (as well as porcelain stoneware) them "not on the teeth".

Sole

Next subject description - soles And their adjustments.

In low-cost stove models, usually stands out of a latitive sheet, because it is not too tough. In the process of sawing, when the platform is great, this can not be noted. But at the very beginning of cutting, when only front paws are involved, you feel certain not a convenience.

A truly good feeling of the instrument occurs when the logs is working with cast sole. The main material is aluminum, but it is a rather soft metal and in its pure form, of course, not used. Additive additives (MR and MD) give the alloy hardness, but simultaneously fragility, so when operating it is necessary to exercise caution.

Regulate tilt plateAs already mentioned, it is infrequent. But this does not mean that the level of execution of the mechanism is secondary. If the mount is performed "Ababa How", the selected installation will be knocked down. The overwhelming number of the stove models is attracted by screws. Two or one - it is not important, it is important that in the zero position there were additional, accurately performed fixators. Often they are also provided for other provisions (15, 30 and 45 degrees). The logs of a professional class plate screws to the metal gearbox body, less often - to the plastic drive casing. The second option is worse (by the way, it is also characteristic of the overwhelming majority of household models).

At any level of the implementation of the node, regardless of the presence of "hard" fixators, Before responsible works, it is necessary to control the position of the slab by the coated or transport.

Electronics

Another common adjustment - frequency moves. This parameter is installed by a wheel located on a housing or handle.

Lobsikov domestic production there are smokers with function p protecting speed. They are good in that they allow not only to install the upper limit ("twilty" on the button), but also seamless to it smoothly, changing the degree of pressing. The disadvantages of such models are unreliability (buttons tend to break) and some inaccuracy in the operation of the upper limit limiter, especially with the positions close to the minimum. Rare imported jigsaws allow you to adjust the maximum frequency of the wheel of the wheel on the body and smoothly reach it by pressing the trigger. From the above disadvantages they are delivered.

Depending on the level of the e-filling, the jigsaw react differently to the load change. In low-cost models, the first three or four speeds (of six-eight possible) do not give stable operation - the frequency of the stem moves strongly depends on the resistance of the material. The first and second position is often not functional at all.

The tools of the middle and high price level are much more stable and sometimes difficult to perform from models with " constatim" Under the latter, the electronic regulator is implied, equipped with feedback (sensor measuring engine revolutions).

Top models sometimes occurs a starting current limit system. It makes the start smooth, helping with accurate operations and interfering in some other cases (for example, when you often turn on the tool to perform rough work).

Examples of using jigscription

	To cope with the work shown in the photo, I had to remove the sole and install a slightly curved canvas (bent and broken bimetallic)
	You can cut on an arbitrary depth (it is not necessary that the canvas passed wood through). True, it is worth mentioning that in this mode the tool is faster

Curvilinear drinking For curvilinear drinking, it is better to use narrow canvas. In this case, the radius of the rounding is small, so our pink is almost no different from the "standard". However, and completely narrow canvas "contraindicated" - they are worse resist the side
	One way to start the cut - drill a hole for the saw. It is done on the line of cut or aside from it.
	When working on low radius, it is necessary to navigate the position of the web. Keep in mind: Landmarks that help with rectilinear cuts ("flies" on the liner or stove) will inevitably searcate from the right course
	Sometimes you can do without scratching: we rest in the edge of the sole as that the future will not intersect the lines of markup, and turn on the logsik. We carefully tilting it to contact with the workpiece and then increase the angle before the appearance of a pass-through slot. Turn off the jigsaw, wait until the web will stop, remove and install in the working position
	Smoothly sprawling the cut line, go on markup. Moving along it, we guide the tool turning it around the axis of the canvas. No lateral efforts are unacceptable, push the logby forward is practically not required

Saw table Making a saw desk will not be a lot of work. For some jigsaws you can buy it; Universal tables are also sold.





	Work on such a machine is more convenient than the jigsaw. In addition, quality increases - it is possible to control the structures of the web, and the chips will not be on the facial, but on the involving side

Shine guide High-quality logsik, capable of sawing exactly, makes sense to equip the guide bus. It is quite realistic to make it yourself; For some models, they are sold complete with a pad to install the jigsaw. Some firms offer universal sets for marking blanks and sawing through a line of different tools.

	By installing the jigsaw to the block, and the last - on the tire, we combine the markup and the "fly" tool at two points, positioning the tire
	Securing the guide, proceed to work. Now everything depends on the accuracy of the jigsaw - if the canvas leads to a significant angle, the cut will be spoiled. However, when working with thin billets from derived wood (plywood, chipboard, MDF thick 20-30 mm) is unlikely.

Parallel emphasis

Almost all the jigsaws have in the sole fastening holes For a bar parallel stop. In some cases (in domestic and inexpensive import tools), such an emphasis is standard. Acceptable quality of working with this accessory is achieved only in rare cases and with the required compliance with the following requirements:

the jigsik must provide resistance to the side of the pink when working with this material;
the reference plane of the stop must be exactly parallel to the plane of the web;
the rod rods and the shoe, as well as the density of its adjustment to the edge of the workpiece must provide straight cut.

Thus, the emphasis can be recommended only for high-quality models and for cases of cutting fine material near the edge (the maximum removal of the cut line from the edge approximately corresponds to the length of the support shoe).

To high quality and easy to cut the tin, it is necessary to securely secure the workpiece. We put the sheet to the edge of the workbench or on a solid substrate - the line of the cut should be at a minimum distance from the support. We press the blank bar, having it, if possible close to the line saw, but so that it does not interfere with the free movement of the tool. Podkachock mode of the canvas - zero or first stage, the pedel is special for metal. If the material is thick (from 2 mm), it will not be superfluous to smear the place of the upcoming cut. The frequency of the moves is lower than the thickness of the material (ranging from the top to the middle level).

To improve the quality of the cut (that is, to reduce the size of the burrs), it is placed between two sheets of organic or fine plywood. This method allows you to work at a large distance from the support line, which is necessary with curvilinear discharge.

It is important not only to know how to properly insert a pylon into an electrolybiz, but also learn to choose it for your instrument. After all, for each material it is necessary to pick up your own option.

When working with various materials requires a frequent replacement of pylbles. There is no universal model, which will equally efficiently work with metal, and with wood.

When replacing the saw, it is important to know what and what are you Going to change. Even if you work only with wood, then the replacement of the saw blade may be needed due to the wear of the old or changing the thickness of the bar.

All saws have their own designations. Those that are used for wood work are marked with HCS abbreviation, and those that the metal has a HSS marker.

Choosing a saw for workload, you should know which material it will be processed. For soft materials, high carbon steel tools are suitable.
If you need to get a straight speaker, you should choose a straight saw with wide teeth.
For sleeping in the form, thin models are applied.
Laminate is recommended to cut special devices that have a return tilt.
But the tools for metal, as a rule, are not straight, their teeth have different size.
For steel it is recommended to use a tool in the form of a wave.
For ceramics, pills are suitable, which do not have a teeth at all (with a carbide spraying), but for plastic, medium teeth are needed.
Do not choose short models. According to the rules, the saw should leave the sawing material.
Do not use tool with too large teeth, it can damage the material.

Saws made of bimetallic material are the highest quality and durable. In replacement, they need less frequently than other models.

Pillet for an electrolovka from bimetallic material

Instructions for replacing saws

How to replace the Pillet in the Electrolzik? The universal method does not exist - the instruction will differ depending on the type of fastening. Consider the instructions for each type.

Electrolovka with a quick-release system:

Such a tool is equipped with a special lever, freeing the pink, so removing the protective casing is optional.
Pull the lever, by this you will open the lock, feeding the rod forward.
Insert the shank of the header into the jigsaw and release the lever.
Using the adjusting screw, lock it in the correct position.

Electrolovka with lock mount:

Open the instrument's protective shell.
Check the lever on the rod to install the saw.
After releasing the lever, move the pink to the climb.

Electrolovka with screw system:

Remove protection (casing).
Using a special hex key, loosen the screw.
Insert the cloth into the special hole in the teeth forward.
Tighten the mount.
Install protection.

Understanding in detail how to install the pylon correctly. It should not be clamped it too much, otherwise the slice will turn out uneven.

In order for the electrolovka to serve you for a long time, you must comply with several recommendations:

Do not forget to check the tool settings before work.
In order to avoid the routine of the material during operation, use special liners.
When replacing the saw blade, show attentiveness and caution. Do not drag fasteners, but do not leave them too free.

Pellets for the electrolovka there is a great set. They may vary in length, thickness and shaped teeth. Replace the Pilka itself is not difficult, the main thing is to know how to do it right.

The electrolovik is not a guest, but the necessary tool in the house. Working with wooden blanks and details, metal, plastic - not the entire list of operations performed by the tool. Lobzik himself long-lived, what you can not say about the cutting equipment. The saw blade accepted and requires replacement. Another option is reducing the cutting tool when processing different materials.

The tool is a reduced copy of the saw with a mechanical drive. The principle of work, like a manual junk, familiar with childhood, is moving the peel in the vertical plane. Difference from the analog, another cutting tool.

One of the responsible nodes is the mechanism for fastening the saw blade. The market presents a number of tools equipped with different locks:

Side threaded clamp. The mount is carried out by means of a screw, clamping a pink shank in the slot mechanism. It is characterized by the simplicity of the installation of the saw blade and reliability of fixation.
Blind mount. It is used in low-cost household tools. The threaded tool is placed in the slots. Fixation is made by two screws with an inner hole in a hex key. The main advantage is the ability to work with all kinds of shanks, different sizes, and regardless of the appointment of the peel.
Quick-mode mechanism. The most convenient, from the presented ways. No additional key or fixture is required.

The saw blade belongs to consumables, - in the process of work it is stupid, stepping. Deformation is possible due to unpretentious loads. The main division of the cutting tool - by type of material being processed:

Wood and products based on it. The cutter is characterized by increased thickness. Tooth size up to 6mm. Wiring within 1mm. Length of the cloth 60 ~ 150mm. HCS abbreviation labeling. On the side surface, the inscription "Wood" or "for Wood" is performed.

Increased accuracy contributes to a decrease in the value of the tooth to 3mm, a small divorce to the parties. The inscription "Clean for Wood".

Metal. They differ from "wooden" pylons length (~ 50mm), small tooth (up to 1 ~ 1.5 mm), wave-like layout. The inscription "Metal" or "Metal". HSS marking.
Plastic. Medium tooth (~ 3mm), a small wiring. The inscription "Special for Acrilic".

Produced pinks on ceramics, glass, plasterboard and other materials. They differ in geometric parameters and cutting part, - instead of the teeth appraged the abrasive coating. Presented universal models working with wood, metal and plastic. Figure cut is carried out by narrow saw blades.

The only design part combining the pinks is the shank designed for fixing in the power tool.

Types of shanks

Initially, 5 ~ 6 species of the end portions of saws were represented on the market. Over time, the most popular remained:

U-shaped shank. Or, in other words, the American fastening type. Used for jigsaws developed by North American manufacturers. By his name, according to geometry, owes an arcuate recess at the end of the peel. An additional fixation element is a hole on the shank.
T-shaped (cruciform). European type of fixation. Pioneers - designers of the German company Bosch. In the form, the end of the filling resembles a cross.

Pinks with similar shanks are widely represented on the market, so there should be no problems with the choice of cutting tool.

Fixing the saw blades, as mentioned above, carry out three types of fixing mechanisms:

Quickness. From the name it is seen the main advantage - a quick change of the cutting tool. But the shortcomings are noted:

The mechanism works only with "native", especially for it developed, types of the shank. Other types will not fit.
There are restrictions on the geometric parameters of the pyline, - width and thickness.

Fastening order:

the mechanism is the plastic knob-block (lever), pulls inside the jigsaw, the rod is released;
pilka is inserted until it stops, the shank into the slot;
the block is released - the saw blade is fixed.

Council. From practical experience: Pilking clamps occur due to abnormal cutting modes (an application of excessive effort, curvilinear reserves with a wide web). Kolotnoy, apply pliers and other "brutal" techniques are extra work and risk to damage the tool. It is easier to carefully disassemble the jigsaw himself and unlock the naked fixation mechanism.

2. Bold screw mount. By the way, it should be noted - all types of shanks are suitable for this system. Plate installation order:

the locking screws must be loosened - the protective casing is shifted and the keys are unscrewed (two or three turns) threaded elements;
in the groove (slot), the cutting part of the jigsaw, in the direction of the cut, the pedel is installed;
screws (located frontal, tool below) are tightened with a hex key (must be included);
the casing returns to the place.

The main minus, manifested immediately or over time, is inaccurate fixation in the direction of cutting. The canvas takes away. Another minus, - breaking the thread with excessive tightening efforts. The third negative factor is the failure of the support pad. It is almost always impossible to find it for replacement, you have to pull yourself.

3. Side screw mount (on locks). It occupies an intermediate position by the convenience of changing the pink between the boom fixation and the quick-inspection mechanism. Stages of work:

side screw is spinning;
the shank is installed in the revealed groove;
visually and to the touch is set by the canvas;
screw twists back.

The accuracy of the installation depends on the initial factory assembly. Over time, individual elements wear out, the backlash appears, the feet starts to walk.

In addition to the main tactical and technical characteristics, the attachment assembly in the electro-box is a mechanism affecting the accuracy of the cutting blank. From here, with visual inspection of the tool selected, you need to look at the operation of fastening elements:

Check the availability of the backup, - insert the pink and move, should not be free.
Turn on the tool and try to determine the presence of the beyon of the web. Minimal displacements are difficult to notice, but noticeable by the eye, indicate a poor-quality assembly.
Perform control crook (if the seller is allowed). The cut must match the markup, the feet follows exactly the trajectory of the cut.
Certificate of reliable fastening, - During test test, the cutting tool remained in its place and did not fall out of the fixation mechanism.

To master the method of installing the saw blade to the power tools will not be made, it is sufficient to carefully examine the instructions attached to the product. With further operation, the jigscription closely monitors the state of the attachment attachment node.