Spinned vases. Vases from the tree - how to make it yourself. Decoration of the usual transparent vase

Large floor decorative vases for the interior are a stylish decoration element. Agree, the handicraft from wooden circles looks spectacular?

We will create it with your own hands with the help of small spikes of the tree - round in cross section. We will not need entire trunks, only branches from about one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as the basis for which we will clipped small wooden parts.

Materials for a vase from wood do it yourself

As I mentioned, we need a weigh branch branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more from its surface area.

You still need something that would serve as the basis of our craft. They can have anything, even a simple cans, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.

It would be better for the tin surface to be so visible, so it is possible to first reorganize it, for example, with a twine or sack paper. Despite the fact that this work is completed too rudely, the flowers in it look pretty cute.

If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or broken - not trouble, it can be useful for us. Breated we first shake. Surfaces and cracks on it will still not be visible - we reorganize it with a tree.

The simplest thing is to find the finished reason for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mache vase, you can utilize a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very easy and better will make it another form, more stable.

Or make it from clay, and insert an ordinary glass jar or a bottle insert, so that the vase can be used not only as a decorative object of the interior, as well as in direct purpose - to put flowers or twigs into it.

Spila is better to carefully clean it with the front side that will be visible for us. Zzabrin and special irregularities should not be, we do not want to scatter. To remove the bark or not - this is your personal business as who likes or what effect you want to achieve.

Still cook good glue, we will stick these small rounds.

Decorative Vase - Production

The tree can be treated with a verse or leave as it is, this is a matter of taste and personal preferences. It would be nice to consider where the decorative vase will be, in which interior. Under the light furniture, sleep is better to leave as it is, do not paint.

If the tones of the furniture are dark, then you can part of the wooden parts or everything is immediately processed to give them a darker shade.

The color is left natural, natural, well visible texture of a tree - circles. I almost forgotten - the sleeves should be all the same thickness so that in the end the vase has a flat surface.

Now proceed to work, actually creating your designer work - a decorative floor vase from the tree. We select in size and glue a speech so that the closed turned out to be as much part of the foundation.

Between big glue small pieces like a mosaic. You can start with anywhere, as you like more. But it is better, I think, start with the most flat (least convex) part.

When everything is glued, you need to give a product well to dry. From above, a decorative wooden surface, if desired, can be covered with varnish.

This is how the outdoor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural natural material, gives the room warmth, creates a style. It will look good for various beautiful twigs collected in the forest, or stems of dry plants.

If inside is a tank of a type of can or a bottle that does not pass water, then our vase can undoubtedly be used for fresh bouquets.

According to a similar principle, vases are made by simpler forms in the photo below. Wooden kreagashi can first treat the veil to give color. Or leave as it is.

An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some bodies of the tree have their own unique pattern on the cut, it adds originality.

Products from natural natural materials, in particular wood, have gained extraordinary popularity recently. You can browse some ideas on sale, and then repeat yourself for the interior of your own home.

It may be not only vases, but also other small decor items, even whole walls, furniture.

You may be interested:

Examples of interior decoration, when natural natural materials are also used. This time the decor is made with the help of slaughter cuts of plants growing near the water, in shallow water. This is all famous reeds, Rogoz, as well as other types of swamp vegetation, Air, Sitnik. The same way can make decorative animal figures.

Another example of creating a vase from natural materials - branches, corping, as well as a small glass container. Very cute and at the same time uncomplicated in the manufacture of wooden crafts for the interior. You can not process the wand at all, you only need to drill several holes in it for the vessel with water and fastening the cords.

Very unusual unique vases can be made on a lathe (who can, of course). I liked it very, I could not pass by, so such a post arose. It can be used both in direct intended, and in decorative purposes to create a unique interior. The more interesting the structure and drawing of wood, the more flaws, irregularities, the better!

We decorate the vase in the technique of a glass mosaic. The base is glass, surface cladding too. In almost any irrelevant form, it will not be suitable for all that is too small, such as a flask for the suspension vase. Inside the article, there is another unusual method of interior decoration - the creation of a decorative inner surface of a wide bowl of wood due to moseline mosaic tiles.

The second important condition for the safe work of the small-year-old chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e., to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually performed at 30 °. This operation is very convenient to conduct

with the help of a special device that I did for sharpening deep-shaped chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without faces. This device will be described later in another article, and now it should be clarified that instead of the small-minded chisel to form a vase profile, it is possible to apply a deep-shaped with a less-burnt character that I often do.

In the photo 6, the finishing bag of the sharpened outer surface of the vase with the pills of the fine-tempered chisel, which is conducted under 45 ° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can be performed with the help of a jammy chisel, as presented in photo 7. True, it is distinguished by a very angry character and even represents danger, since when a burrow can fly out of the hands and damage to the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing to pull almost everything, but only with the equity arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with the cross-sharp turning, the co-ssychki chisel is absolutely not applicable. By the way, her blade is sharpening at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the girlfriend.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and aligning it with the surface, as well as applying small ornamental brownies and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel (photo #) I spend the wet grinding of the product with the sandpaper R220 grainy. For which dipping "skin" into a plate with water, and spraying the surface. This grinding is preliminary. And in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the thin cutting chisel the support protrusion on the Diax Vase (photo 9) and squeeze the bottom in the cartridge with the back of the product with the backstone (photo 10) for the dense fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be the drilling of a deep hole in the throat of the vase, but since it has a big length, then for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in Luntney (photo 11), the use of which has-practical practices for the sharpening VAZ.

Lunets for small lathes are not sold, they have to make themselves. My three-wheeled lunet (such devices are still two- and four-wheeled) made of plywood with a thickness of 40 mm. The diameter of the opening for the workpiece is 220 mm, and the wheels for roller skates with precision bearings provide relative silent operation. Only installed Lunet, as I needed to interrupt the job: I had to take a roll of the food film and wrap it with a vase (photo 12), otherwise the product from damp wood of an apple tree (extremely "trressing" of the breed) would definitely cracked during my absence. I, by this film, also wrapping semi-prepared bowls from weak, strongly fired wood to prevent them from spooling into pieces with a boring of the inner cavity. The vase conceived by me should have become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and living flowers. In the latter case, water should be pouring into any suitable small vessel, for example, a glass tube with a length of 200 mm and a diameter of 20 mm, placed inside the vase (photo 13).

I did not find a suitable long drill (type of Spiral Levis or first with grooves for shavings removal) to do the hole in the throat of the vase. I had to plant a simple flat "pepper" with a width of 22 mm from a set of production of still Soviet times on a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling cam patron with a cone Morse (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow to insert the cartridge in the Pi-zero of the back of the grandmother, and the thickness of the rod created tool did not give the opportunity to fasten it in a 10-mm cartridge of the usual drill (9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of the rotating vase, it was necessary to hold the cartridge in his hand with great strengtheps, laying the rod to the girlfriend. Photo 15 and 16 show the initial and final stage of this process. By the way, for the convenience of further use, the test tube inserted into the throat of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the finishing stage of the Donette, i.e. eliminating the dents from the cam and alignment of the end, it was necessary to deploy an almost ready-made vase on the machine. Previously, I pulled out the supporting tablet with a deepening under the diameter of the neck (photo 17). Placed her back and behind the bottom of the Donette center, which inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When later I pulled out other vases of approximately the same form, then simply carefully pushed the neck in the cartridge using small fists of type F, laying a strip of plastic with a thickness of more than 1 mm. A segment of a coaxial (antenna) cable will also be consolidated as a softening gasket.

In photo 18 shows the search for the center on the Donets when it for some reason was not scheduled or disappeared. The black felt-tip pen marks the beating, then it is necessary, tapping on the Xiankaya celebration, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the formation of the Donets is carried out using a deep-shaped either small-minded chisel (photo 19)

Upon completion of the sharpening, the vase must be dried without cracking. In the air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by a large thickness of the vase at the bottom (the thinner of the wall of the product, the higher the chance to avoid cracks, as well as some warns). I dry my products from raw wood with one of two ways: either I lay in a paper craft package, filled with wet chips of the same tree (photo 20), or filling the product itself, which then wrapping in two layers of the newspaper and put on the shelf in Saraj. The latter method is particularly convenient and effective for cups and plates with walls with a thickness of 4-8 mm, which without cracks and steaming dried in summer in summer.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thicker part of the vase from the apple tree could not be avoided even after a two-month drying in the kraft package, and the circumstances did not dry longer. It was necessary to close the cracks by gluing the thin plates of the same material chopped on the ribbon saw and then treated with a rhochop grinding machine with a carbide disk and the Black & Decker electron. Plots turned out to be almost invisible, but this additional work made me reconsider the method of sharpening VAZ in order to make their lower parts with hollow to reduce the probability of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I was bred by doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited by the simple drilling of the narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to reassuate the cavity in the lower part of the VAZ, but at the same time there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely did Vaza. In the summer, I made a series of vases close form, and it was necessary to solve the problem drastically. From the very beginning at both ends of the cylindrical billet, it is pulled out on the performance. Having formed the external profile of the lower part of the vase, it is necessary to immediately begin the boring of its cavity with the use of Lune, holding the workpiece in the cartridge behind the ledge on the place of the neck. With the help of deep or small-rough chisels, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is reset. Those who can further enter some of the curved chisels - a hinge, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by a kroncyrkul.

Upon completion of the process of the boring process, it is necessary to separately roll out of the same wood material plug of a suitable diameter and glue it into the opening of the protrusion (dona). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of the protrusion of the cap inside the cavity so that the test tube, which in the future it will rely on it, went out on the aforementioned 5 mm. If the test tube fails in the neck, an additional fruit will arise with a piece of wood on the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

That part of the inclised plug, which protrudes outside, I cut off on a ribbon saw. Next, the Donace will be finally processed by the method described above.

If the vase has a different form with a significantly wider neck, then

the tag as a vessel with water is not suitable here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-jammed birch suwel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and pulled out a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm from it. Further in its stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of a bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off from it on a ribbon saw a piece of about 160 mm long, deciding to turn it into the desired vessel. First, with the help of gas microgorelka, I was convinced that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e. it will not be able to cook from it. I had to turn to gluing, to start scolding from the source tube, another small piece and making an additional dual dolk on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I gotten a segment to a soft condition. Deployed into the plane, put under the press, and after cooling the aligned piece of plastic plastic, the circle struck the circuit on it, which will play the role of the bottom in the vessel from the tube. Next I am quite right, albeit on the eye, led him

the size in accordance with the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using the Black & Decker electronage (photo 22). I drove the circle into a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and flooded outside the thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superclone "Master" based on copolymers of vinyl acetate, which I have been kept for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed to me with vulgar, and I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. The subsequent exposure with water for a month has shown the tightness of the made vessel, and the total aesthetic properties of an accurate vase with a lively branch of the golden river can be estimated in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to notice that the most diverse plastic water pipes are sold in stores, of which you can easily make any vessels for living colors and put inside the accurate wooden vases. In photo 25, a number of such products created by me were shown in summer from various wood breeds by the method described above.

Wooden vase with their own hands - Photo

Photo 1. Cross sawmill on goats. Photo 2. Sharpening of the rimproy chisel on the electric coil. Photo 3. Chernovaya processing of the workpiece by a rimpted chisel. Photo 4. Forming the protrusion at the end of the cylinder under the cartridge with the help of a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Formation of the outdoor profile of the vase with the help of a fine-tempered chisel. Photo 6. Cleaning the surface of the fine-skinned chisel's surface. Photo 7. Pure surface treatment with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative colors and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support protrusion by a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10. Clamp of a vase form in a cartridge with a backstop of the backstone. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in homemade lunet. Photo 12. Sealing vase with food film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade pepper
Photo 15. Start drilling a deaf hole under a glass tube.

Photo 16. Cork in the holes of the vase. Photo 17. Cutting the supporting plate with a hole under the throat of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and the center search on the Donets. Photo 19. DOAGEMINE OF THE INTERNALLOGE-OBLASHED ENTERNAL.

Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually done on the lathe. But 90% of the tree turns into a chips.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat shield.

That's what it turns out:

Long chose the material for the sample. On the one hand, I want something interesting, on the other - so that it was not sorry to ruin.
As a result, I stopped on the nut, with inserts from oak and wenge.

Walnings 75mm width and 15mm thick cut into 3 parts.
Oak 4mm veneer must be cut to 15mm dice.

How to do it, if there is no circular saw, but there are a pair of clamps and cutting saw?
This is how - the pist is clamped between walnut dies ...

And sawing.

As a result, it turns out a smooth cry of the required thickness:

Blooming the nut into the shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them a thin veneer wenge. (who saws on the same technology)
Spent scratches from saws. Small inaccurability, plus solid oak, which saws along the fibers.
It is not scary, still the shield will have to grind to align the stroke errors.

And again gluilding with spacers, leave for the night:

Ribbon grinder Align the shield, remove the remnants of the glue. Probably, it was worth making a wenge continuous:

It turned out a 14 mm thick shield. Each side left 0.5 mm.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, an angle and step is selected:

Print the drawing, with the help of sewing combining the centers of the shield and drawing, sticking the drawing:

I drink a small rake at an angle of 38 degrees:

Fixing the shield by clamps on the table Lobzik and using the rail as a guide, drill a 2mm boring bormer at an angle of 38 degrees:

I felt in the hole Pilk:

And go!
Slap the first ring:

And here it is donyshko!

Wood very firmly, drank slowly, slightly flink - the carriage bursts. To replace the peel, you need to return the table into a horizontal position, unwind the fastenings of the sawmill, to make the shield, set up 38 degrees again, adjust the tension ... and the pedel is almost always rushing, when 3 cm remains until the ring is completed.

The second ring, the picture begins to emerge.

View from below:

And after the fourth rings, the pinks ended. Spent one and a half packs. No more, I postpone on tomorrow.

I drove the store, bought 8 packs of pylons (so that I certainly had enough), sawed:

Shift rings:

Agility of hands and no fraud, rings fold in a vase:

You can combine with a shift. You can make inserts between layers. Options mass.

I start glued until without the bottom, so that it is more convenient to grind the inner surface:

Checking the alignment of the layers:

Leave for the night under load:

Result. The surface is rough, but alignment of lines without serious disorders.
Damage - traces from drying with an ultra-thin sawdow (41 inch tooth), which was tone in sawdust and the tree was burning.

It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempting number one is a steel rod with a twin-sided scotch flap.
Not an option, too flexible.

Attempt number two, grinding drum on the same spindle.
Also does not fit, the machine is easy (as I thought about it). Does not hold, plus it is inconvenient to work.

Attempt number three. Grinding drum on a bending sleeve.

The drum is small, sawdust fly to where the least needed, but you can work:

For thin grinding, we collect petals 400 sandwits:

But it does not grind. I continue my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from the ideal.
I detect an error - the penultimate ring is inclined with a displacement of 180 degrees.
Well, will be a reminder ... In the end, it could be much worse. Let the charm give - it will be a cut. The main thing, spacers are normally combined.



The sweat, pouring eyes and falling on the vase.

The respirator was once snow-white:

Insert the Donets. To accelerate the process as a press, I use my weight with dumbbells in your hands ... Vase is withstanding more than 100 kg without a screet, despite the lightness and thin walls. Now I think, and what would be if the Vaz had scattered?

The history of wood processing on the lathe has more than 2 millennia. Progress does not stand still, the tools and the machine itself will be enhanced. Instead of 2 people, as at the very beginning of the turning case, it is serviced by one master, and the rotation of the part is set with the help of electricity. Still, wood has a creative process, which allows the masters with their own hands to create original elements of the interior decor, souvenirs, wooden dishes, carved furniture and much more.

For making your own hands, cans from a tree under the bulk products, cylindrical boxes under jewelry, matretory and other souvenirs are used wood with various density characteristics, fragility and humidity indicators. Before starting the sharpening, it is necessary to calculate the load that the type of wood can withstand to work. In many respects, success will be dependent in production, especially if a sharp narrowing of the part of the tree is assumed, for example, for a carved thin leg. Small miscellane with the pressure of the cutter on the workpiece processed, and you can start everything first.

On the turning table with manual type of processing, much depends on the skill of the master - the fidelity of its hand and the accuracy of the character. The sharpening can be conducted both along and alternate wood fibers. In the manufacture of wooden utensils, the drawings are not mandatory. The beauty of deep bowlers often depends on the choice of wood. Coniferous trees have smoother thighs of annual rings, which allows for uniform in wood, when combining the center of the trunk with the axis of rotation, create products with repeated patterns in the period. Deciduous rocks depend on dryness or humidity of the year, so annual rings can be very different. True, for the storage of vegetables and fruits in a fresh form, wooden containers are less effective than coniferous due to smaller resins.

So that the capacitance with the lid closed hermetically, should not be neglected with drawings. To make your own hands a whole set of identical tanks, the easiest way is based on the drawing and repeated recalculation of the size of creating a stencil. You can work with the template only if there is a device on the turning machine for mounting the cutters and a copier. On this machine, you can not just create single products, but also put on the flow of sets of objects of wooden home utensils.

The sharpening of such products as balusters for decorating the porch and stairs, arbor buildings, better so that the copier is more reliably on the lathe than hope for your own eye. No matter how skillful was the master and how well did not keep the cutter, more reliably than on the copier, reproduce the previous product will not be able to reproduce. There are no obstacles to the masters with a perfectly owned cutter to create a multi-layer thread on the lathe, which will become a decent decoration of furniture - the backs of chairs, headboard beds.

A separate type of art can be considered to look at paintings and saints - it is capable of making a high-end master, capable of thinking volumes and create multi-layer copiers. It is less difficult in terms of transferring a planned pattern to a wooden workpiece using machine tools equipped with CNC. For the release of a single product, you will need a lot. The accuracy of the carved painting on the CNC machine is different from the manual carving of the tree in the lack of physical effort from the Master. Unlike a person, the machine "Hand" does not get drogle - all elements will be made in accordance with the laid by the program.

For playgrounds, even in cities are increasingly installed not metal playgrounds, but wooden. The tree gives a greater flight of fantasy to the masters. Making a swing for their children and grandchildren, many will remember horses on bent polls. On the home turning machine, you can make the sharpening of individual elements of such a rocking toy, after which with the help of joinery glue collect the toy together.

You can make it yourself from the tree on a conventional lathe with an additional fastening - a tableby, a carved casket. By selecting a suitable pattern or ornament, it must be transferred to flat blanks of the lid and walls using a pencil and a copy paper. Cutting ornament is carried out by a hand tool. Applying decorative threads to round or cylindrical boxes is also made by a manual tool, only the blank can be attached in the spindle without a clips of the backstone, which will be interfered when applying the vertical elements of the pattern to the part horizontally fixed on the machine.

The peculiarity of the manufacture of souvenirs on the lathe is that they first perform all actions to create an external and internal silhouettes of the product, adorning carving is applied, only after that the finished item is separated from the total volume of the workpiece.

All photos from the article

A tree is not only a material for the manufacture of bars, boards and other construction elements, this is also a space for creativity, since this material is processed quite easily, so everyone can try themselves as a sculptor. Wood artistic processing allows even from the usual at first view of the bores to get a real masterpiece.

Ways of artistic wood processing

The sharpening is far from the only way of wood processing.

In addition to it, you can highlight:

• inlaid - at the same time, pieces of other wood are inserted into the wooden basis due to which the pattern is formed;

• pyrography - the usual burning on the tree. With a thorough work with the device with a subtle pate, you can achieve outstanding results;

• sharpening - In order to make an accurate product from wood, you will need a lathe and at least minimal skills to work with it;
• hand carving - Skills to work with cutters can not do with hard rocks to work hard even experienced masters. But manual work is very highly appreciated;
• also, the methods of artistic processing can be attributed. Often, painting is combined, for example, with threads.

Note! The use of the machine at times increases the speed of operation compared, for example, with manual carvings. All accurate products offered in retail are obtained just when processing the workpiece on the machine.

Turning at the machine can also be carried out in several technologies. For example, segmental stimulation involves gluing the workpiece from individual fragments of wood and subsequent processing of it on the machine. Due to the combination of different wood species, it is possible to achieve interesting effects.

As for the list of what can be made on the lathe, it is large enough. You can start with simple accurate handles for the tools (the same chisel), but to finish with massive long products. Also, dishes can be made from wood and other little things useful in the farm.

Types of sharpening

If you try to describe the process of dry technical language, it can be said that the process of sharpening is to obtain a detail from the workpiece having a body shape. Since, in the case of wood, our goal is also that this item looks attractive, the aesthetic component is achieved by changing the diameter of the workpiece, combinations of different shapes, etc.

As for the classification, it is possible to stripping on the wood turning machine to divide into such types:

• longitudinal - while the billet rotates around its axis, and the cutter gradually moves to it parallel to the axis of rotation;
• transverse - differs from the longitudinal fact that the cutter moves in the plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the workpiece;
• angular (tangental) - while the cutter moves at an arbitrary angle to the axis of rotation.

The classification can be brought to the purity of processing. Thus, with rough processing, the tolerances are very large, but the speed of removal of excess material is high. Finishing processing provides for the finishing of the workpiece and removal of the thin layer of the material.

Subtleties of choice

If working with a tree is only a pleasant hobby and at your disposal there is no workshop with a complete arsenal of all tools, the choice of the machine is critical. There are a number of parameters, paying attention to which the probability of an unsuccessful choice will decrease at times.

What should pay attention to when choosing

Most often, very compact devices desktop lathes are purchased to satisfy the creative ferry. Of course, in terms of accuracy and engine power, they will not be equal to powerful industrial analogs, but the price of such devices is acceptable.

When you choose, attention should be paid to such parameters of the machine as:

• maximum permissible dimensions of the workpiece processed. The documentation for the machine necessarily indicates the diameter of the feeding (the maximum size of the workpiece in the transverse direction) and the length of the bed (the maximum permissible length of the workpiece);

• power - roughly speaking than the device is more powerful, the better, but with increasing power, the dimensions of the machine are growing. So you need to find a golden middle;
• the material from which the bed is made, as well as the frame material. From the point of view of stability, the optimal models can be considered with steel frame and cast iron bed. True, the weight of such machines is quite large, so if its frequent relocation is planned, it is better to choose a easier model;

Note! Machines in which the bed and the hull are made of light alloys can easily be transferred from place in place with their own hands without help. On the other hand, they do not have such stability as steel.

• rapid adjustment range per minute. All modern machines can adjust the frequency of revolutions so that attention is worth paying to the upper and lower limits of this range. So, low speeds are suitable when it is necessary to handle the workpiece in the form of a parallelepiped, and high will be used with finishing when you need to get a smooth surface.

As for the device, the key elements of the lathe can be called:

• cutter holder - allows you to securely fix the cutter and while working in 2 directions (along the workpiece and in the transverse direction);
• front grandmother - in conventional machines it is located on the left (if the turner turner). It includes such elements as a drive mechanism and spindle, the center of which is rotated when working, forcing the rotation and harvest.

Note! Instead of the spindle at the end of the grandmother, a tablebuck can be installed - the device that is necessary in the case of an end value.

• rear grandmother - used to fix the second end of the workpiece, the end of it freely rotates, so that the rotation of the workpiece will not interfere.