Homemade body armor of plastic from a knife. Making a body armor do-it-yourself (28 photos)

Good day, mozharrosia! Today I will tell you how to create Easy and comfortable costume-armor from ordinary sheet foam.

Materials:

A sharp knife (ordinary carpentry or for cutting foam, maybe even jigsaw)
Computer and printer
Adhesive gun (I like a gun with power setting)
Paper, handle, line, etc.
Liquid rubber
Aerosol paint.
Dremel and nozzles for it
Sheet foam of various texture

Step 1: Creating a Model File

In an excellent program for creating paper models, create 3D and 2D models of your future suit and print the resulting patterns. I think this link will be useful. By the way, if you are not sure that you can figure it out in the program settings, there is a lot of useful literature, and of course bragoforuma.

Step 2: Cutting and creating layouts

Of the printed sheets gradually, not all at once, cut out the templates and glue the details of the layouts. Not everything is immediately because you can get confused, where that, where what part is, so better in order.

When three-dimensional paper layouts crafts Ready copying them from foam. We take a sheet foam and sharp knife Cut from it the items of suit identical to paper templates. On the paper layouts themselves there are points that can be transferred to the foam, yes, we simply measure the dimensions on the layout and lay them on the foam. So it turns out quite accurate details, the time saves and of course foaming.

Step 3: Improve the Small Parts

When all the details of the costume are made in the foam, it came to these details to modify, namely, to cut various grooves and grooves on them. We place on the details of the place to select the grooves, take the knife of the hot cutting or joinery knife and, actually cut out, choose these grooves and grooves. The hot-cut knife is well obtained straight lines, carbon knife, and remove the material from the grooves is best densem, but you are focusing on your capabilities and mosigon. The main thing to produce large suit details, make them more realistic.

Step 4: Bonding parts

Now we proceed to gluing parts into more massive elements of the costume. I think after all manipulations you already know what to glue, not looking into the computer. So, first try the details to each other, if you are not suitable in thickness, then you cut them up, and then glue them. That is, we apply glue into a smaller detail and press to a bigger place in the place put it, slightly compress and keep the glue can be captured. So do it with all the details requiring gluing, while trying so that the glue is not visible on Selfie.

Step 5: Finish study

On the this moment The costume corresponds to the model created on the computer, but you can still modify it. On the Internet we find pictures from the movie, from the game, etc. And we study them, notice any interesting details, "damage", accessories, "chips" and carry them on your armor costume. To do this, use a thin sheet Material, wires, LEDs, etc. Dremel can drill art holes, add to selfie Bolts, nylon belts can be connected to the costume details, so they will look better and stay strong. Show braguntzia And ingenuity!

Step 6: Staining

Before painting costume you need to cover the details liquid rubber From the can, since if this is not done, the paint will be absorbed by foam, and the surface will be rough, matte, boring. Therefore, first spray tires, let it dry, and already paint the costume-armor into the selected colors. To improve the quality of staining, do not forget to use the malarious tape, and if there is, the airbrush.

Step 7: Armor Ready!

Self-timer Made, check it if you need to refine somewhere. Optionally, install fans, backlight, distinctive signs, etc. The main thing is not to be afraid, and the method of trial and mistakes to create and create your own unique brainjets!

Photo from Ok.Ya1.ru.

The body armor is one of the means of protection against a criminal armed with firearms, cold weapons. It is a special adaptation to protect vital organs.

There are various modifications depending on the purpose, circumstances and use points. Is a moto vest with inside protective plates from different materials: Titanium, special plastic, special. Ceramics and other materials. There are body armor, which protect and legs and legs (used by the US intelligence services, France, England), as well as special impenetrable wigs, shoes, and even socks, gloves, caps and helmets.

Bulk articles that are at our militia and internal troops, two species: heavy and lightweight. Heavy weigh up to 10-15 kg, cover the chest, back and lower abdomen; Lightweight - 4-5 kg, cover the chest and back. Withstand the blow with a knife, shot of a pistol (TT, PM) from a distance of 50 to 1 m (when shot of a machine or automatic rifle with close distance - 3-5 m, it is possible to break through the body armor and the wound or fracture of the ribs from the blows of the bullet). Protect from the shot by a fraction of hunting rifles and homemade pistols.

Heavy body armor strongly drains movements, lightweight body armor are also not very easy to handle. Experimental samples of body armor, manufactured in the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the RSFSR, correspond to the best samples of foreign models, but they still exist in single instances. Bulk armor produced in the West, weigh from 1 to 3 kg, are convenient when wearing and more difficult it.

In our country there are no established mass production of body armor for the population. Standard body armor produced by our industry and commercial enterprises provide protection against all pistol systems, as well as from the lesion with cruise-cutting items: knives, sharpening, peaks and blunt objects (stones, batons, reinforcement, etc.). Some types of body armor are protected from shots from machine guns and rifles.

We want to offer you to make a protecting jacket from the undergraduate means, which can protect you from shocking with a knife, seer, sharpening, a battle and reduce possible harm from the shot from firearms (see Figure).

For the manufacture of this "home" body armor, you can use the explosive material in your home, various waste production. With its manufacture, connect your familiar tracksters, turners, mechanical engineers. General principle The manufacture of such: the helpet, old jacket or t-shirt takes. On her in places of vital organs, on the chest and back, are nasty sewing machine or hand pockets various size, depending on what material you have. In these pockets, plates are inserted from metal or other durable material, the upper part of the pockets is sewn.

Between the pockets are formed by joints, which are desirable to cover, nasty pockets, since during a blow to a knife or seer, the tip can get into this joint and cause damage to you. The best constructive option - this is the strengthening of the plate on a solid material; As the scales are located on the fish, that is, the bedding. Drilling for this in the plates of four holes, susht them to a velocity leaving with a wire or a durable fishing line so that in places the plates laying on each other holes on them coincided. If there is an opportunity to handle the plates, - make them a little convex, on top of the "scales" by our fabric. Choose the length of homemade body armor themselves, it can be to the belt and below the belt.

You can use this homemade body armor in cases where meetings are possible with criminals. To add an improvised body armor, you can make a cap or helmet with an iron bowl or a plate inside. Of course, it is better to have a standard body armor produced by the enterprise. These body armor armor are more elegant, their weight is small and we can wear them in any situations without attracting attention.

We warn that the homemade body armor does not guarantee complete protection, but attaches confidence and reduces the risk of injury.

(According to the materials - G. Gurov Yu.V. Veshek A.N. Ivanov A.V. Chezhuti "ABC protection against criminals": MCP "Association-Olympus"; Moscow; 1992).

This booking is designed for men of medium physique.
On the heroes, he looks somewhat comic. Those. sizes of all parts, including steel liner, for very large men Need to be customized individually.

In the first picture, we have the front part of the body armor ("PUZIK")
Soft Piece of Velcro (Peels), lines of sewing pockets, straps with a metal frame for staging on shoulders.
FROM back side Lining part. If I painted her, you would only see the incision for the pocket, closed on the velcro fastener.

In the second picture - the back.
Seams of sewing pockets, clashes on velcro (hard part - "hooks"), which we are simply "ears"
Straps for igniting on the shoulders (at the bottom of the velcro-hooks, at the top of the velcro-loop) and the rigid velcro response just below the shoulder seam for better fixation of the straps.
The lining side is similar to the shelf.

To calmly meet, according to my estimates, you need a cut of fabrics two meters with a half-meter width.
Material: rubberized fabric as for backpacks.

The details are cut out as much as painted on the layout.
Punches on the seams \u003d 0.7 cm is quite enough (do not forget when sewing to stick to exactly those points with which the details were carved).
Pushes on the fastener in the lining of the shelf and the back - 1 cm.
The only variations that are allowed is a way of cutting straps for shelves (item 1.5.) - They can be carved them from one piece with a fold or of two.

I. Cut the velcro (6 segments of the soft part of the velcro width of 5 cm, 15 cm long), 3 velcro on each side.
Singing 3 cm down and away from the upper point of the side cut, and begin to adjust the velcro. First, each, then everything is diagonally and the cross will cross. I adapted to lay the second line, moving from one diagonal to another, from the abdomen - that site will be more often subject to checking "on the gap" when unplugging.

II. Pocket
1) Adjust the gain.
2) With a short side, we sweep at 0.7-1 cm - it will be the entrance to the pocket.
3) We fold the pocket face up so that the entrance to the pocket is obtained below the untreated edge of 4 cm, laying the lines along the edges of the pocket by 0.5-0.7 cm, remember the scores in strategically important places!
4) We apply a pocket with the wrong side of the shelf, we pretend how to sew it so that the bottom of the pocket is higher than the straight nose somewhere on a centimeter. We make markup on the shelf at the sewing place of the pocket. We make markup on your pocket (approx. 1 cm from the untreated edge) with the front side of a longer part of the pocket.
We fold the pocket into the tube inlet in your pocket down to fit under the sleeve of the machine ("tube" of pocket and shoulder sections will be on the one hand), make up the lines of sewing pocket on your pocket and on the shelf, passed. We deploy the pocket input into your pocket, we lay the finishing line somewhere 0.7-1 cm.

III. Standing side of the shelf
1) Pinds for a fastener of the Velcro are dragging for 1 cm.
2) Velcro is customized by a zigzag. From the side of the Proucy, we make indents somewhere on 1 cm so that the velcro does not interfere with the end assembly.
On the flutter of the lipoper hooks, facing the wrong side (looks down). On the main part of the velcro-loop, facing the front side (looks up).
Waste velcro. The lining is ready.

IV. Stamps can be sewed from one long part (7 to 46 plus allowances), it is possible from one wide (14 to 23 plus allowances), from two (7 to 23 plus points) - the main thing is that in the end you have two straps in size 7 23 cm.
1) We are wearing from three sides, cut off the allowances in the corners, turn, we deploy the finishing line.
2) two segments of the slings (18 cm) we melt around the edges, bend in half, put the steel frame into the fold, adjust the sling on the strap (we combine the melted rafters with a raw stalling cut), first under the frame and at the edges, then the cross will (under Frames I, as a hereditary paranoid, passed three times).

V. Assembling the shelter (in the pictures there is no).
1) At first I sewed straps. We apply straps to the shoulder sections of the face of the shelf (face to face) and sew 0.7.
2) Then we fold both parts of the shelf (facial and lining) face to face, it is possible to make pins in strategic points for convenience, and we are wearing 0.7 cm from all sides. Passing around the fastener, it is advisable to make leaving.
3) Cut the surplus in the corners, wait in the places of bends. Soak through the fastener with velcro, we are sprawling the corners.
4) We pave a finishing line from all sides. ATTENTION: In particular "thick" places (where there are straps, for example), we slow the typewriter in order not to break the needle.

I. We make pocket, customize it on the back. Technology is similar to pocket shelves.

II. Clashes- "ears"
1) Cut the velcro (6 segments of the rigid part of the velcro width of 5 cm, 15 cm long), 3 velcro for each ear.
Circled Ear Beginning in half, celebrate the middle, place the place to sewing the lipuchkuch, taking into account the allowances (on the front side). Customize velcro - every edge.
2) The ear again bend in half, this time the face and velcro inside, we are cutting around the edges, cut the corners, turn out.
3) We pave a finishing line along the edges and crosswise over the sewing site of lipuchk.
4) Apply the ears with an untreated cut to the side cut of the back, face to face (velcro top), sew 0.7 from the edge.

III. Lyamki.
- 2 segments of slings 33 cm (width 5 cm), edges
- Segment of soft velcro 20 cm (width 5 cm)
- Cut of rigid velcro 10 cm (width 5 cm)
- 5cm rigid velcro segment (width 5 cm)
1) To the top of the straps close to the edge, we adjust the soft part of the velcro, below - the rigid part (the bottom of the seam should remain downstairs without any lipuchka). Locate along the edges, then the cross will cross.
2) A small piece of rigid velcro is facing the front part of the back, in the middle of the shoulder, approximately 1 cm from the shoulder seam.

IV. Assembling the back is similar to the shelf assembly.
We join the finished back and a shelf - the straps of the back are fed into the frame, fasten on the velcro, fix the tail.

Plates
Material: 3 mm steel.
spin - 39 by 30 cm
before - 36.5 per 28 cm
To give plates anatomically proper form For 4 cm from the edge, the ribs are bent at a small angle.
Ready-made plates are preferably immersed, paint and wrap insulation.
In pockets, steel plates are invested through the entrance to the pocket on the velcro from the wrong side.

Something like this. If something is incomprehensible - ask.
Pictures in greater resolution can be sent to e-mail.

Patterns and video master class in Ribe.

So, in connection with the unstable situation in the country, it was decided to buy a body armor in case of any different riots. I glowing on the sites of our beloved Runet, it became clear that my salary would not be enough to buy even the easiest body armor (kevlar). And then I came to mind, and why would I not drink it myself? I glowing a little bit in the same Runet, many articles were found about how and from what the body armor do. Everywhere it was said that body armor makes from Kevlar and Titanium or aluminum and steel. But since neither Kevlar nor Titan had me, and it was not possible to buy it possible, then the choice fell on steel and aluminum.

To begin with, it was not clear where the aluminum was bummed. Bought on ordinary metal supplies. Aluminum thickness Discount 1.5 mm. And with him I bought and steel.

Aluminum brand, I do not know his name. She walked like sheets. May be removed from the old aircraft ....

Next, it was necessary to buy a material that would be good to stroke the blows, to restore the form and necessarily very light. Searching for shops and cods, this material was found. Polyesterol something there ... It is used as a lining for the parquet. He is fragile, but at the same time it is shy-durable.

So even closer.

Aluminum sheets cut in half. One sheet was obtained, on one side of the body.

In fact, the sheets were as follows: polyesterol, aluminum, gray polyesterol fantasy, steel, gray polyesterol fantasy, aluminum and again polyesterol. There are no green sheets on this photo, they simply glued on top.

Cleave and looked. in order

Hole in the first sheet of aluminia

he fell into Steel

Bullet outlet

The 2nd sheet of aluminum did not give fragments to fly out and kept the bullet

more for comparison

This sheet was thrown. Steel was twice as thicker, and everything is new. The same aluminum and polyesterol. Unfortunately, the photo of the second option is not left. A cover from Soviet burlap and conventional fabric was sewn.

Well, the final version:

Well, final. Thanks to those who will treat the topic with understanding) there were no drawings, everything was only in my head)

The intense situation in our country makes many think about the means of protection, I mean the bodyroom. Here I will tell you about your experience in obtaining medium-sized body armor, the class of protection of it is about the third.

It all begins with a case, a cheap but quite a suitable case of thick Cordura of average quality will cost somewhere in 265 hryvnia. I bought a cover, similar to the 3-95m shell. Temp-3000, but naturally, not "firm", and not particularly necessary, the cover for the body armor can be sewn independently or order a seam.

With plates the most difficult. You want a body armor to give at least some kind of protection from Kalashnikov machines, the most common weapons on both sides of the conflict copes perfectly with light body armor, so you will not have a light body armor. Although if you can afford the American MTV body armor with branded Esapi and Side-Sapi plates, the following infomation is not relevant for you.

If you can purchase certified armoflastines - take it, life is more expensive. If there is no such possibility then turn out. From what is available and can be done by having moves for machine-building plants for body armor, the most suitable construction steel HARDOX 400/450 (Hardox) production swedish company SSAB. The same company also produces Armox 500T bronzer used by Kiev Temp-3000.

Test plate plate HARDOX 500

Experimentally confirmed that 6 mm of steel Hardox according to broncences correspond to 4 mm. Give the third security class With a chance on the fourth. That is, do not make your way with 50 meters with standard cartridges. New Russians were not checked.

The size of the plates in the body armor is regulated by American standards SAPI and ESAPI

In the theory, the spinal plate should be more breastless, but I took two EXTRA LARGE plates (cheaply - 500 UAH each), standard dimensions:

Extra Small - 184? 292 mm
Small - 222? 298 mm
Medium - 241? 318 mm
LARGE - 260? 337 mm
Extra Large - 280? 356 mm.

Anticooked coating of body armor

The plane of the body armor must have a corresponding coating. In branded body armor, this is solved for example, a packaging plate from all sides of felt. There is also the front of several layers of Kevlar, and from the inside of the insole is no thick 4mm.

An example of a ricking fragments of bullets is very unpleasant if they bloom in the neck, and in their hands and on the legs - also not a gift

I decided to simply take and get rid of all lying flasks and sew two contradictory pillows in half a hundredsantimeter. That ragside was from the HB of tissue bunk and diagonal - what needs to be avoided. The size of the pillow was chosen on the plate plus 2 cm, that is, 30? 37 cm. Sheltered by the caprony thread, when the needle stuck in the fabric pulled it out with the pliers. In general, everything is simple, though somewhat laborious.

The plates themselves are not painted, and covered with a scale after being in the furnace. They can be left and so, but it is better to protect against rust. I lacquered. The brand of varnish is not fundamental, the main thing is to clarify the seller that it is intended or suitable for metal surfaces, such a varnish will dry over two days. Wooden varnish on metal surface It will dry the weeks, verified.

The anticillary pillow is fixed on the plate with the help of super-glue, although it was easy to put it on an unlucky varnish.

Now back to the cover, he has two pockets, naturally rear and front, the plate should be invested in them. And then there was a small problem - pockets are not enough, the benefit of the fabric is easily allowed them to expand.

Protection of sides

We are protected from the front and rear side, and from the sides? Twed four titanium plates in size 105-119 mm. 1.25 mm thick. To protect the sides, pockets sewed for small plates to pockets for large so that small titanium plates slightly visited large. Everything is very simple, see photos.

The shock-absorbing lining, in the smart - "damper".

Suppose the steel plate will stop the bullet, the opposite pillow will not give fragments to operate in all directions. But there is another very unpleasant phenomenon as a prohibition of bullets. That is, even through the plate, you will feel a blow from Vitaly Klitschko, indirect sensations and serious injuries are provided. A good damper can be ordinary isolon, which is sold in construction stores. In the cornsary's body armor, which our organization handed over the military to armor-plastic was attached to the double layer of isolon, a total thickness of 8 mm. The plane with the damper is easily inserted into the corporate camp of the body armor. The inner side of the branded body armor has a lining that allows you to quite comfortably carry a body armor, as far as possible for such things.

But how to be woods? We can handle the body armor over the sweaters, over the insulated booster or on top of the vocabulary. Cleaver can be bought in Voentorga. And you can sew a jetty yourself, especially if the reserve of the old wool fell. And there is such a cover-unloading in which Iodno pack something, the pixel - for example.