The bathroom is being installed. Bath installation. Reinforced fastening of the acrylic bathtub

It is difficult to imagine a comfortable home without a bath.

There was a time when bathtubs were even made from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.

A steel bathtub is considered the most durable and has its advantages:

light weight (ease of transportation and installation);
heats up quickly, since it has a metal base;
cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
the enamel coating is durable.

The most serious disadvantages are:

cannot keep warm for a long time;
not stable enough;
makes a lot of noise when filled with water.

Disadvantages can be easily eliminated by using polyurethane foam for this. It is enough to turn it upside down before installing the bathtub, moisten it with water and foam - it looks like a thermos.

After the foam dries, cut off the excess with a knife. To make the steel bathtub more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick pillow (or used in place of the legs).

Room preparation

It is better that the bath is installed on metal supports with adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safer when installing the bath.

In the corners of the bath, you can use timber supports by attaching them to the wall. Such a technique will strengthen the bath, it will become more stable in case of stress on the corners.

Before installing the bath, first clean the place of the intended installation:

plumbing fixtures are removed;
a siphon is disconnected from the sewage system (the hole is closed with a plastic cover);
the old tub is removed (if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
the walls are aligned at right angles.

Installation steps

Bath installation includes several stages:

the bath is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
when installing the bath, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
when the bathtub is in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
joints are sealed with polyurethane foam;
additional supports are installed (a bar of the required size is attached to the wall);
with the help of fasteners, a plastic panel is installed that covers the bath.

Possible ways

You can install a steel bath on your own using two methods:

installation on legs;
installation using brickwork.

Installing a steel tub on legs it should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the life of the bath will be shortened. In this case, hooks are used (they are usually used when installing water heaters) and a brick pillow is laid under the bottom of the bath.

The bath is placed on legs and level. The outline of the bath is marked on the walls and the bath is removed.

Holes are drilled in the marked places into which the hooks are twisted (directed to the side or downward).

The bath returns to its place, is level again and the hooks are twisted - the bath is pressed against the walls.

When using a brick pillow a row of bricks is laid under the bottom of the bath (you can fasten them together with foam, and so that the foam does not "lift" the bath up, it is better to fill it with water).

When installing a bathtub using masonry, you need skills in working with such masonry. Pillars are laid out of bricks on which the bathtub will lean. A brick pillow is also required under the bottom of the bath.

The main difficulty that people can face when installing a steel bath on their own: the pillow and posts should be at a certain height from the floor. For this, the posts, if they are low, can be plastered with a solution.

Required tools and materials

To install a steel bath yourself, you will need tools:

a rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bath) is required to level the bath;
fork wrench (to tighten the release parts);
rubber hammer (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bath);
drill;
screwdriver;
spanners;
building level;
polyurethane foam;
sealant;
siphon;
fasteners.

Step-by-step instruction

After the place has been prepared for installing the steel bath, you need to follow these steps:

How to avoid installation errors?

There are rules to be aware of when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands:

only the upper edge is set according to the level, since the design provides for an inclination towards the drain;
do not use the corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
do not overtighten the screws that attach the legs to the bath (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may chip off);
do not use rubber pads for the legs or the bottom of the bath (the bath can spring on them and a crack forms between the wall and the bath);
for a steel bath, grounding is required;
usually the bath needs to be raised higher than the factory adjusting screws allow. It is impossible to use stands made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
leave access to the tub piping (to clean the siphon).

Watch a video on how to install a bathtub with your own hands and what you need to consider:

We will analyze the installation of a steel bath step by step. We will securely fix it on the legs, learn about installation tricks that increase the service life and characteristics of plumbing, make a niche for a bathtub made of moisture-resistant plasterboard and Knauf metal profile.

Step 1: Installing the feet

A steel rectangular bathtub of the Spanish company Roca of the Contesa series with dimensions of 1700 × 700 × 400 mm was selected for installation. The volume of the bath is 185 liters and the thickness of the steel is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of a steel bath is lightness. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person can easily cope with its installation. But it will not be easy to install a cast-iron bath alone. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. We'll have to connect an assistant or even a brigade.

The installation of the bath begins with attaching the legs. In order not to damage the floor covering, we put something soft under the bath. You can not remove the factory cardboard for now, it is a reliable backing from scratches. We turn the bath over. Self-adhesive structures, as in our case, that follow the contour of the bottom are considered good legs for fastening. They have height adjustment, prevent distortions and unevenness of the floor. To install the bath on legs, we first try on the U-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, ensuring reliable adhesion. We attach the structures with double-sided tape. We fix the supports exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding skewing. There are also bolted feet, but we do not recommend using them. They can not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage the enamel.

The legs are supplied with long adjustment pins. They must be inserted all the way into the plastic tips. We do it smoothly, making sure that the threaded connection is not broken. We adjust the hairpin with a rubber mallet.

We proceed to the installation of the studs. We pre-screw the nuts to the plastic tips and screw the stud into the designated hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bath in height and horizon.

Step 2: collecting the drain fittings

After installing the legs, turn the bath over. We install the drain system. We unpack it and study the instructions. We start the assembly from the bottom drain.

We install the drain socket in the technological hole under the bottom of the bath. This element consists of two parts - a tube with a funnel-shaped extension and a bowl-shaped chrome piece that prevents large debris from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additional silicone for reliable sealing.

Let's move on to connecting the overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in the upper hole under the bath rim, and the other - to the lower drain leading to the sewer. When purchasing a kit, select a corrugated overflow tube. It is easy to install, has a larger outer diameter clearance than a rigid tube, which means that the likelihood of water overflowing over the edge is minimal.

The modern market offers two bath waste systems. A well-known kit with a plug on a chain and an automatic stopper. In the second version, the opening (closing) occurs using a mechanism that is mounted on the overflow, like ours. In this case, there is no need to bend over and pull out the plug, just turn the lever.

This is how the final installation of the drainage system looks like.

Step 3: Calculation of the bath height and installation of the stop

We calculate the height at which the bathtub will be installed. Correct measurement will ensure not only a good fit with the facing tiles and the supply of the plumbing unit, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. In this case, the likelihood of extraneous odors leaking out is minimal. The additional raising of the bathtub by only 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and debris in the siphon and the metal mesh of the drain.

To strengthen the bath against the wall, mount a support, the main thing is that it is stable. We used a Knauf metal profile.

We fix the profile with the dowel-screws, we choose the step ourselves. It is advisable to mount the mounts as often as possible.

This is what the metal stop looks like after attaching to the dowel-shurops.

Step 4: Installing the bathtub on bricks

We return the bath and put it in place. Since the drain hole in the wall is too high and the length of the legs is not enough, you will have to install the bathtub on bricks to level the level. In addition, the metal legs are not strong and heavy enough, they can easily be wrapped around under the weight of the body or water. Beauty is not the main thing here, since in the future you will close the niche under the bathroom with plasterboard and cover it with tiles. When marking the bricks, do not forget to leave enough space at the siphon so that you have free access. Laying bricks is carried out on a cement-sand mortar.

Draw a line against the wall and move the bath aside. Apply silicone sealant to the screwed profile, and below the marked line. After applying the silicone, we put the bath in its original place.

We set the bath exactly on the level using the adjusting bolts.

We seal the joints between the bathroom and the wall with silicone sealant.

To firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen them with brick fragments, and the joints are sealed with cement mortar. The legs should be especially firmly sealed when installing a heavy cast iron bath.

After we pulled the back corner of the bathtub and securely attached it to the wall, attach a file from the ends for rigidity, set it on tile glue.

Step 5: Connect the siphon to the drain and check for leaks

When the silicone sealant and glue are dry, we proceed to connect the siphon to the sewer drain.

The connection will be made using a rigid structure. To divorce the system, we use corners at 45 ° C. Unlike corrugated tubing, this system is easier to operate and clean. If a blockage occurs, it is enough to open the shut-off valve and clean the drain.

This is how the system should look after connecting the hard siphon to the sewer.

Install the bottom drain plug and the swing arm to open and close the side drain.

To check the quality of the installation of the drainage system, open the tap and fill the bathtub with water. When the plug is closed, no leakage is observed - the upper neck is assembled correctly.

When the bath is half full, open the plug, check all other connections for the likelihood of leaks.

Everything is dry, the bathroom can be used. If leaks are observed, it is most likely that you have not tightened the nuts tightly, have become skewed, or have not secured the adapters firmly enough. Tighten the nuts and guide the structure in the desired direction.

Step 6: Blowing foam and lining the bath niche

Despite the advantages, the steel bath has two main disadvantages - the water in it cools down quickly and creates increased noise when water is drawn. A budget option for eliminating these problems is blowing with polyurethane foam. Installation of an acrylic and cast iron bath does not require this procedure. These materials have good sound insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve their quality characteristics, no one forbids you to blow these baths. It is better to apply polyurethane foam on a damp surface than on a dry one, in small areas. Leave a small gap around the technological holes, about 2 cm. Excess foam can be easily removed with a sharp blade.

We start assembling the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you are again using the Knauf profile. We start by marking the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and fix them with dowel nails. We install the profile on the sides, deepening it into the niche by the thickness of the sheets of drywall and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22-24 mm, taking into account that the thickness of the drywall sheet is about 12-13 mm, and the tiles with glue - 10-11 mm. Better to take the distance with a margin. If the niche is slightly recessed, no big deal. But the bulging of the plate will look ugly. We connect the side strips with a wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bath, foaming the gaps. We fix the vertical profiles in the middle with self-tapping screws.

We proceed to the cladding, we use moisture-resistant Knauf drywall. The standard sheet size is 3000 × 1200 × 12 mm. A bath up to 170 cm long will require no more than one such sheet. For an inclined niche surface, we measure a rectangle of the required length and width, cut out and fasten. Sewing up the rest of the niche. The resulting space between the inclined and straight parts is closed with drywall triangles cut to size. We do not pay attention to small cracks, these errors will not be visible under the tiles. After sheathing, we make a window of the required size and install a plumbing hatch. The final stage is the application of glue and tiling.

Step 7: Sealing the joints with silicone

The missing tiles between the bathroom and the wall have been laid, the seams are worn out, now we proceed to the last stage of finishing - sealing the seams. We clean the seam between the bathroom and the wall, wipe everything dry. For sealing, we will use white silicone, which will prevent water from seeping through the side of the bath.

To prevent the silicone from smearing the tiles and the bathtub, we glue a fence in the form of masking tape around the entire perimeter. It will prevent the sealant from getting on the cladding and plumbing.

Fill the cleaned and prepared joint with white silicone sealant.

We make the seam even, spread it gently with your finger, a plastic spatula or a spatula. Wipe off excess sealant with a wet cloth.

When the silicone dries slightly, carefully remove the masking tape.

After the silicone has completely hardened, the bath is ready for use.

When carrying out repairs in the bathroom and self-replacement of plumbing, such a problem as the correct installation of the hot tub necessarily arises, since aspects such as comfort during the adoption of water procedures and the service life of the entire structure depend on how well this operation is performed. The correct installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands consists in the exact sequence of actions, which include the assembly of the structure itself, the preparation of a place for installation, and of the installation itself. In this article, we will look at options on how to properly install an acrylic bathtub.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, which favorably distinguishes them against the background of outdated metal models, is their low weight, this quality makes it possible to independently install acrylic bathtubs without resorting to the help of professionals. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is a rather complicated process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. Also, do not delay the installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property during improper storage, or it can change its original shape for a long time.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bathtub

Before you install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bath itself for installation, remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom, dismantle the old equipment, prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

bath;
legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
hammer;
Bulgarian;
puncher;
assembly sealant;
level;
adjustable wrench;
insulating tape;
assembly tape (construction tape);
corrugated pipe;
spare parts for fixing the acrylic bathtub to the wall or floor.

Before installing a new acrylic bathroom, you need to do some preparatory work:

first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
then dismantle the old bath;
then hack or cut out the old drain;
clean the sewer hole;
insert a new corrugated pipe into the sewer socket;
grease the joint of the corrugation and the sewer hole with sealant;
level the floor for the acrylic bathtub.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of new plumbing.

Installing a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

on a metal frame;
on support legs;
on brick supports;
on a brick podium;
combined installation method.

The rules and instructions for the installation of plumbing products made of acrylic allow any of the specified methods to attach the bath to the wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if there is a metal frame in the kit, then it is better to install the font on it, while using the attached instructions. And if special legs are sold with the bathtub, then the acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the zones of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub using each of the 5 listed methods.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub on support legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method, which does not require a set of tools and special skills. The assembly of the bath with legs is easy if you use the instructions that come with the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at slow speeds. Fastening to support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

Screwing on the legs. There are special seats on the lower part of the bath body, marked with stickers or corresponding symbols. To facilitate self-assembly of the acrylic bathtub, some manufacturers supply products with pre-drilled holes. And if they are not there, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load is not evenly distributed and the bath will quickly fail.
Support adjustment. Almost all bath legs are designed with adjustable support feet to attach the bowl to the desired slope using a level. First, the bath is installed against the wall, and then the legs are twisted, setting the desired height. After that, proceed to horizontal alignment, when the level is set on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, the legs are twisted up or down with a wrench.

When the optimum values are established, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are strictly horizontally mounted in advance along the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed in to the wall cladding.

Mounting on a metal frame

The most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to strictly follow the assembly instructions for the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

First of all, you need to assemble the frame, according to the instructions, using the long self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
The product is turned on its side or upside down, so that it is convenient to fix the frame.
Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bath in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
Then the legs are adjusted to the same height so that the height of the bath does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
After that, the product is turned over, the building level is checked whether the bathtub is level.
Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
If necessary, the hot tub is attached to the wall using hooks or metal corners.
Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible, when the frame with legs is mounted directly on the floor, and then the bathtub is mounted on the fixed frame from above. Most often, the installed frame does not require additional fasteners, but if it does not seem reliable to you, then you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.

How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

In the event that the metal frame is not available, the installation of the acrylic bathtub is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the structure is particularly durable, due to the fact that it requires a huge amount of bricks. Moreover, an excessive load on the floors is created, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the floor, it is recommended to install an acrylic bathtub on brick posts. To create such a structure, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Without removing the protective film, the bath is brought into the room and installed in the place of future installation, after which the location of the posts is marked.
According to the length of the bath, they mark where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bend of the bath.
After they take out the bath, they start laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bath above the floor level is not more than 60-65 cm.
The masonry is allowed to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bathtub and, by pushing it tightly against the wall, is installed on the posts made earlier.
With the help of silicone sealant, the gap between the posts and the bottom of the container is filled.
Using metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bathtub are attached to the wall.

Experienced experts recommend applying polyurethane foam to the bottom surface of the acrylic bath before installation, this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonating ability of the material. Also, the use of foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub with brick supports.

Method of mounting on a brick podium

In the event that there are no metal supports for a particular model, the installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous version, the only thing that makes it different is that this method requires more time and is somewhat "dirtier" than the previous version. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on the podium is done using a saw, polyurethane foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done observing the following technology:

The bath is temporarily located in place, while the protective film should not be removed from it, after which they mark the place where the drain hole will be located. This operation is needed in order to leave a gap in the podium to connect the drain.
Under the entire supporting part, using mortar, brickwork is made to such a height that the sides are at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to take into account that there will still be 2-3 cm of foam between the masonry and the bathroom.
Around the brick podium, a frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled. It should be borne in mind that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the layer of polyurethane foam.
Evenly fill the podium made of bricks with one layer of polyurethane foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
The bath is turned over, mounted on a podium, after which, using a building level, it is checked how evenly the bath is placed.
The bath is filled in half, closing the drain, this is done to evenly solidify the foam. The drying period of the foam is 12-24 hours.
The bathtub is connected to a drain with an overflow, mounted on a podium and attached to 3 walls using hooks and a metal corner.

It is worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic bathtubs have a sloping bottom, which accelerates the outflow of water into the drain, so during installation it is not necessary to install the bathtub with a slope.

The most famous method of fixing acrylic bathtubs is a combined method, when the installation is carried out on a metal frame made of an aluminum profile, and in order not to bend or deform the bottom, ordinary bricks are used. In order to build such a structure, you will need:

bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
for the manufacture of the supporting structure, a metal or aluminum profile will be required;
in order to fix the brickwork, you will need a cement mortar;
it is recommended to use a sealant to seal the seams;
in order to assemble the frame, self-tapping screws will help;
for stirring the cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

It is worth remembering! Care should be taken when working with sharp or heavy objects, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby ruining the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to properly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, you need to note what its future height will be, starting from which we will form the height of the brickwork. We measure from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bath itself, and what happened will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bath will be mounted.

It is recommended to start the installation of an acrylic bathtub to the wall by mounting a metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bathtub. Then, along the lower level of a part of the edge of the bath rim, you need to install a metal profile with dowels along the entire perimeter, where the bath will come into contact with the wall. It is on it that the bathtub will rest on the sides. Further, before installing the acrylic bath, we make a brick pillow along the bottom of the bath of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing the acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything should be calculated so that during installation it exactly lies with the sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom is slightly in contact with the brickwork along it. Attachment to the wall in this situation is done with the help of a sealant that is applied to the profile, and at the same time acts as a sealant preventing water leakage.

Thus, the fabrication of the frame can be considered complete, but it is possible to create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will make it possible to hide the inside and will be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, as well as make it possible to make a special hatch for the repair and maintenance of the siphon. You have learned how to properly install an acrylic bathtub on a do-it-yourself frame.

The bathroom is an essential attribute of a modern person. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, immersed in your thoughts for a while. That is why it is worth taking very seriously the choice of the bathtub, as well as its installation, since not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners will depend on these two factors.

Do not forget about saving, since installing such a product is a costly business, and sometimes it is better to do all the work yourself.

The very first step when changing a bath is choosing the type to be installed. It is from the choice of the material from which the product is made that the durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. At the moment, the market offers several types of bathtubs, which differ in material:

1. Steel- an ideal option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to its low cost, it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when collecting water. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can easily cope with the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to select the bath itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.

Steel baths have a high level of heat transfer. In order to fill a bath of standard volume, you will need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal heats up quickly.

2. Cast iron- with proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to cope with the weight of the product yourself, so several people will have to deal with the installation. If a steel bath can be connected to an already installed siphon, then a cast-iron product, due to one awkward movement, can break part of the communications. Another drawback is the level adjustment of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with fixed-sized legs, you will have to go through a lot with its leveling. Adjustable legs in cast iron bathtubs can also be found, but they are rather flimsy and can break from a certain effort.

In order to take a cast-iron bath, you will need about 100 liters of hot water. The metal heats up for a very long time and quickly gives off heat. From the point of view of economy, one step will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bathroom.

3. Acrylic bathtub- lightweight, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). Installation requires at least two people. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about a large wash with the old - good methods). For the price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast-iron ones, but they can still hit your pocket.

The most economical type of bathroom in terms of its intended use. The material gives off heat very slowly and heats up quickly, and for one intake, 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough.

Acrylic bathtubs have recently become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. Such popularity is due to the presence of a large assortment, as well as the simplicity of its installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only the classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities in interior decoration.

Preparing the bathroom for installation

Wall covering

It is best to install the bath directly during the renovation of the room, but before the cladding. Since at this moment you can achieve the maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during the laying of the tiles, you can effectively treat all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.

If we are talking only about replacing the bath itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. The part of the tile with which the old container was in contact did not burn out, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.

Floor work

Before installing the bath, you need to make sure once again that the floor is perfectly flat and strong, especially when it comes to installing a cast iron bath, which is heavy even when empty. Tiles for heavy bathtubs should be installed using the indentation method, which eliminates the voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.

To distribute the load that the bathtub will create when filled, you can use wooden logs. The most suitable tree is larch. Lags are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with linseed oil or PVA putty.

Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem of appearance, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow, which prevents the penetration of sewage waste in the opposite direction. Also, due to the additional lift of the bath, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.

Drain fittings

When choosing drain fittings, you must pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Material. There are products made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene on the market. The second option is more durable, but it will also be more expensive in price, but a number of advantages fully pay off the product:

the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during the installation of the bath;
does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
has a smoother surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
has a higher efficiency, since the friction of water against the pipe walls is much less.

2. Drain. Most of the drains on the market come from China and a bolt is used in the installation process. Over time, these bolts corrode, rust and oxidize regardless of the material. Even if you separately purchase a stainless steel bolt, as a result of its contact with the mesh, a solder is formed, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repair to zero.

3. Grid drain. The most economical option is a net consisting of two crossbars that form a cross. This look is the perfect hair catcher. A more practical look, in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable type - the holes in the mesh are oblique, profiled.

4. Cork chain- it is advisable not to use those products that come with drainage grids, but to purchase a separate one. The best option is to use a chain designed for fishing and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against the negative effects of water.

5. Overflow pipe. Although most older tubs use rigid tubing, it is best to use corrugated tubing that has a larger flow and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of overflowing water.

Bath dimensions - nuances

The dimensions of the bath will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before buying the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the presence of additional equipment, such as washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that externally identical bathtubs can have different volumes.

The most common sizes for different types of baths:

1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, 65 cm - height, width - 70-85 cm.

2. Cast iron are available in several standardized sizes:

small: length - 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
large: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.

3. Acrylic bathtubs are available on the market in the widest range, from 120 to 190 cm in length and 70-170 cm in width.

Small-sized bathtubs are suitable for small spaces, but the bathing process does not cause any pleasure at all. Also, do not count on a lower cost, since compactness is a need and in order to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.

If the bathroom is quite spacious, it is worth stopping at a cast iron or acrylic product. It is the assortment of the latter that is the most diverse: angular, with decorative trim, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.

When you don't want to spend money on an acrylic bathtub, you can purchase a plastic product. As a rule, they are purchased from Chinese manufacturers and do not differ in special quality, and installation requires additional effort and adherence to subtleties.

Do-it-yourself bath installation: a step-by-step guide

Installation of all types of baths is carried out in several stages, but in the process you may need special tools and materials.

The rule is an even bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bath. As such a tool, you can use any long and even bar on which the level is placed.
A fork wrench is needed to tighten the drain mechanisms, which are most often made of plastic.
Rubber hammer - may come in handy when the tub legs are shrinking. The use of metal products can choose to deform the surface of the product, as well as damage the enamel.

Additional materials: silicone based sealant and "rag" tape. The latter is only needed when installing an acrylic bath.

Bath alignment and drainage connection

The leveling of the bath is carried out using a level, and the main principle is to raise the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important for us.

The complete connection to the sewer is carried out after the complete installation of the bath, since in the process the siphon can be damaged. When choosing drain fittings, first of all, you need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. With sufficient width, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. There are two ways to level the bathtub: diagonally and along the sides.

In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level on top. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat the twisting of the legs. When finished, repeat the procedure again.

In the second case, the level fits on the side of the bathroom, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move on to the other. Alignment along the sides is performed several times, since the side opposite to the measured one can get lost. The method of leveling along the sides is more laborious, and especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.

We prepare the sewage system

First you need to make sure that the sewer pipe and the pipe itself are completely dry. This will maximize the tightness of the connection. It is best to shut off the water supply throughout the dwelling, and, if possible, completely shut off the water supply to the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn the neighbors that there will be no water on the flight for several hours. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hairdryer.

After the workplace is prepared, it's time to move on to the direct installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.

Installing an acrylic bathtub

In the set of each such product there are special guides, on which the legs are subsequently attached. They are installed across the tank. Legs are screwed into the lodgements (the correct name of the guides).

The guides themselves are attached to the bathroom using special self-tapping screws, which can also be found in the kit. So that the self-tapping screws do not damage the integrity of the shell, you need to drill holes for them in advance. It is necessary to use a drill with a stop, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the self-tapping screw.

After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bath to one side and connect the drain fittings. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed externally only! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.

All threaded connections should not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.

During installation, place the bathtub close to all walls, at the same time make sure that the outlet of the bathtub is docked with the sewer pipe. Next, level the bathtub using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with a sealant.

While the sealant hardens, it is necessary to tighten all screw connections that were in a semi-relaxed state with a fork wrench.

When the sealant finally hardens, check all joints for the possibility of leaks and if none are found, you can treat the cracks between the bathroom and the walls with the same sealant.

Steel bath installation

A steel bathtub is installed in the same way as an acrylic bathtub. The only difference is in the way the legs are attached. They are secured with bolts, studs or wedges. Tighten the bolts gradually and alternately. You should not immediately be zealous and tighten them to the limit, since in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustment.

To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of car rubber between the mount of the leg and the surface of the bathtub.

Subtleties of installing a cast iron bath

Recall that cast iron products have an incredible weight and a bathtub made of this material is no exception. It is advisable to carry out all work on connection and adjustment in the bathroom. Moving a product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage to doorways and other interior elements.

Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of linings as the level is adjusted, will negate the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs should be filed at the base, but this is a job for the masters of their craft.

For the installation of the drain, unlike the previous types, it is advisable not to turn the cast iron bath once again on its side. It will be enough to raise the front part to create additional space, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.

All work must be done very carefully and do not pull the bath again.

Installing a plastic bathtub

We did not separate this type into a separate category, since plastic bathtubs are a cheaper substitute for acrylic products, and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow that will relieve the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made either from the same larch or from cement. Plastic bathtubs also require special care and careful use. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.

Bathroom screen

There is a wide variety of screens for the bathroom. Moreover, you can not limit yourself to buying a finished product, but do everything yourself. Perhaps this approach will not be the most correct, but the most economical - for sure.

Installing a bath without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task that not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various tools, but also to know all the subtleties of the process. You should also take special care when working with cast iron products - they are heavy and during the transfer process you can easily injure your limbs.

Video lesson: Bath installation. Important points

If you doubt your abilities, invite specialists to help you, who will perform all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, companies or firms involved in the installation are obliged to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for additional materials that were purchased directly through them.