Let me just say, if it is important for you that there is a Russian bowl in the log house, then you need to chop it "in the cloud", be sure to use a blow-out lock in the bowl.

Yes, it is more time-consuming and more expensive, which means, alas, few people order and few people have "knocked their hand" at this type of felling.

Therefore, 90% of the Russian bowl in Russia is chopped with an ordinary round bowl, which is then blown through and requires caulking. In fact, they repeat the technology of rounded logs ...

If practicality is important to you, then nothing has been invented to date better than a Canadian bowl on a round log or a Norwegian bowl on a carriage (beam). This type of bowl has been formed over many centuries and today is presented as a clear technology that has its own standard in Europe (ILBA). In Russia, over the past ten years, about 70% of carpenters have mastered and successfully use both Canadian and Norwegian felling.

So let's see how these cuttings differ from each other in practical and aesthetic terms?

RUSSIAN BOWL - OURS!

In oblo(bowl in the lower log) - type of felling, which was used in the 16-17th century Russian wooden architecture. Labor costs in this case are less, but the performance of such a connection is low. Firstly, the orientation of the bowl up allows moisture to enter the inside of the bowl, which leads to wetting of the insulation, the same applies to the groove between the logs. Secondly, the inner, flat surface of the bowl, without any transverse, locking elements, is easily blown through, especially after shrinkage and drying of the logs and requires caulking. Now no one cuts like that anymore.

Into the hood(the bowl is selected at the bottom of the log) - the most popular type of felling today, which is offered by most companies. The bowl is better protected from precipitation, however, when the bowl dries out, cracks appear, a caulk is required, the bowl is blown due to the lack of a lock, as when cutting "in a tail" (or a bowl with a notch).

Bowl with ledge - an intermediate peachy and rare variant, when the longitudinal groove and the bowl are cut down from opposite sides of the log.

"Into the tail"

"Into the husk"

In ohryap. When cutting into okhryap, two identical recesses are made on both sides of the log, both from the top and from the bottom. The shape of the recesses in this case is no longer round, but rectangular, with a flat bottom and slightly rounded sides, repeating the radius of the next log. Cutting into okhryap is quite simple to manufacture, but is not recommended for permanent residences, since the connection is not tight enough. Historically, this type of felling was used in the construction of outbuildings.

Oblo - ohlop with a slit. In this cutting method, an unselected quarter remains inside the round bowl - the cut. The bowl can be directed both up and down. On the opposite side of the log, a notch is selected according to the shape of the undercut. The prisec in the bowl is arranged from the side of the inner corner. A bowl with a slit turns out to be more durable and protected from through blowing, but more laborious in execution, which is why it is quite rare.

Hook cutting. Starting to describe this connection, it should be noted that in the specialized literature and in practice, two completely different designs of a corner cut can be called a hook connection. For this reason, we will describe both. The first version of the hook design is a bowl, which is selected only up to the middle of the log (on one side of the log axis). In the upper part of the log, a semicircular groove is selected along the unselected rest of the bowl. Thanks to this joint configuration, the corner is completely closed from through blowing, unlike most of all other cuts. Therefore, the hook connection is very warm and durable. At the same time, the hook connection is very laborious.

The second option for cutting into a hook notable for the fact that it involves trimming (finishing) the logs from the inside and obtaining a right angle with even inner walls. In part, the design of this lock is similar to the above-described bowl with a notch. The difference lies in the fact that the log is hemmed from the inside by about a quarter of the diameter of the log, and the spike-cut is made equal in length to the size of the heel. When assembling the lock, the spike catches on the rough side of the log, giving the connection additional strength, which is how it got its name - in a hook.

This is the most competent and practical type of Russian felling!

In real life it looks like this:

Photo: carpenter A. Karasev, Novosibirsk

SEMI-LAFET. MANUAL PROTECTION.

Log cabin can "Finish" after its assembly, at the stage of grinding and finishing work. This results in a very beautiful and plastic look of the corner. This is the old and traditional way.

Disadvantages of the Russian bowl that you do not suspect.

The photo shows a cut into a Russian bowl of cedar with a diameter of 40 cm. 2 years after the shrinkage of the log house, such cracks opened everywhere, although at the time of cutting it was cut down perfectly! The shrinkage of a log of 40 cm will eventually be 7-10% - this is about 4 cm + shrinkage of the bowl itself.

Three years later, at the 35th diameter, a longitudinal groove + a slot in the bowl opened, which required additional unaesthetic caulking.

Therefore, the only way to hide the terrible cracks, protruding moss (or jute) is to close them with rope or sealant.

PAW CUT

Oblique paw A much more complex connection option is cutting into an oblique paw. The shape of the paw in this case is a trapezoidal shape with an inclination in two planes. Because of its characteristic shape, it received the name "dovetail". Thanks to this configuration, the angle is much stronger than the "straight paw", but it requires highly skilled craftsmen and is very laborious.

The oblique paw also has a more advanced version with a spike which further enhances its strength. When cutting into an oblique paw, after the first one is ready, a template of plywood or similar material is removed from it and used to mark all other ends.

CANADIAN BOWL ON A ROUND LOG

Canadian bowl

(America) Cutting into the saddle (variety

Russian bowl)

Canadian felling has some common features with tail-cutting, but at the same time it differs markedly, primarily in shape. If the Russian bowl is round, then the Canadian one has trapezoidal shape and is selected at the bottom of the log. A spike is left inside the bowl, just as when cutting into a fat tail. On the upper side of the log, inclined notches are made, repeating the profile of the bowl of the overlying log and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl, with high-quality manufacturing, turns out to be durable, airtight and, accordingly, warm. But the most important advantage of the Canadian castle over the round bowl lies in its "behavior"

The fact is that in a log house with round bowls, as the logs shrink and shrink log diameter decreases, and the parameters of the bowl change slightly. As a result, cracks form in the corners, which require additional caulking. In turn, the inclined edges of the Canadian lock, in the process of shrinkage, self-jam and maintain the tightness of the cut, preventing the formation of cracks.!

However, it should be borne in mind that the Canadian cabin is not just a special form of the castle, but a whole set of necessary technological nuances, which, only if they are of high quality, ensure the tightness of the structure for a long time.

One of the characteristic features of the Canadian felling is the absence of gaps between the logs, not only in a new log house, but also after its shrinkage and shrinkage, which makes it possible after laying the insulation in the crowns do not carry out repeated caulking at all.

A simplified version of the Canadian spiked felling is the Russian cabin in the saddle. The only difference between this cutting method is the absence of a spike inside the bowl and a corresponding groove in the upper part of the log. Everything else looks exactly the same as in an ordinary Canadian castle.

The Canadian bowl also has many variations. It depends on the taste and skill of the carpenter when working with heels. The photographs show how the plastic of the corners made by different masters differs.

Canadian bowl with top notch

(classic version)

A photo. Canada.

Canadian bowl with top and bottom notch

(diamond bowl)

Photo Canada.

Click on the photo to enlarge!

Diamond groove. Oblique fasteners.

Pine dia. 35-40 cm.

Slots are specially left between the logs for further shrinkage.

Diamond groove.

Parallel fasteners.

CANADIAN. SEMI-LAFET.

On the Canadian bowl, the gun carriage for interior walls can be made directly in the cutting process.

At the same time, the outer walls will be round, and the inner ones will be even! The ends of the cuts will also be round!

LAFET. CUT TO A NORWEGIAN BOWL.

gun carriage- this is a log, hewn from two sides to even side planes. Carriage walls are smooth and have a characteristic aesthetic, and are also convenient for additional interior decoration.

The history of the gun carriage begins in Scandinavia. In ancient times, the cut side parts of the log, called the croaker, were used to make floors and roofs. Thus, significant wood savings were achieved.

When building houses from a gun carriage, a special corner joint is used - "Norwegian castle". Its difference is high strength, tightness and rigid fixation of the beam in the corners. At the same time, over time, in the process of shrinkage, the strength of the log house only increases. This is due to the wedge-shaped design of the lock, which ensures the self-jamming of the bars under their own weight. At the same time, the "Norwegian lock" is one of the most labor-intensive connections and requires high manufacturing precision.

Canadian technologies for the construction of sustainable and ecological houses have gained a lot of popularity in recent years. This is partly due to the naturalness and energy-saving function of such buildings. Prefabricated structures are also popular due to their economy with simplified assembly techniques. Against this background, the North American logging technology deserves attention. Despite its relevance in our time, the basic principles for the implementation of such houses were laid back in the middle of the last century. Another thing is that the Canadian technology of cutting log cabins has been significantly improved in our time. Among the advantages of this approach to construction, the same natural design, energy-saving advantages and, most importantly, reliability and durability stand out.

General information about technology

This method of forming a house is also called cutting into a bowl. According to the general features of construction, the technology can be attributed to varieties of traditional Russian felling. Moreover, it comes from Russia with its roots, but it has not taken root in our country, and Canadian masters have improved it and have been using it for more than a decade. Also, modern builders from Russia took a different look at the advantages that felling of a log house using Canadian technology has, and are increasingly using this technique in their work. Among the features of this cutting method, one can note the complexity of the design. If classical log cabins are mainly formed according to the technique of simple laying of elements, then the installation configuration according to the Canadian method is highly accurate and thoughtful. Of course, it is painstaking installation that ultimately makes it possible to obtain high-strength houses that are not subject to biological destruction processes.

What is the difference from the Norwegian felling

Similar climatic conditions in Scandinavia and Canada led to a lot in common in approaches to construction. Therefore, the two technologies have more similarities than differences. For example, both methods make it possible to form a dense self-locking frame. Canadian felling, like Norwegian felling, is carried out without the use of nails, so the responsibility of architects designing such a house also increases.

But there are also significant differences. The main one is the use of large logs, the diameter of which can reach 50 cm. In the case of a Norwegian log house, a well-prepared gun carriage is more often used. Another distinguishing nuance lies in the technique of forming corners. North American builders use saddle cutting, which just ensures density in fitting logs. Largely due to this feature, Canadian log cabins are more popular. A photo with an example of fitting logs is presented below.

Markup execution

During the construction process, you should use a special tool that will improve the accuracy of the formation of the log house. This is a hammer, which has two sharp rods, with the help of which the contours of the future bowl are outlined. Carpenters call this tool a trait, but there are other names. The marking itself should be strictly guided by the terms of reference, which will be implemented by the Canadian felling of the log house. Projects, except for layouts, may take into account different parameters of the bowl. Of course, for buildings of a large area, these dimensions will increase - and vice versa. Markup should begin with determining the parameters of the logs. Next, you need to number each whip, which will eliminate the possibility of errors in further laying.

Creating a "saddle"

The base of the "bowl" is the "saddle" in which the logs are placed. It should also be noted that each joint must initially have a special spike. Outwardly, it may seem that the classic thorn-groove mounting technique is being implemented, but this is not entirely true, since the joint is performed by bringing together rounded planes - that is, through “saddles”. If you do Canadian felling of log cabins with your own hands, then you can make calculations according to a simplified scheme. For example, in determining the depth of the “saddle”, one should focus on the radius of the log, which will subsequently be laid in this niche. This forms an organic masonry with a tight connection of logs. In this case, it is necessary to retreat from the edge of at least 25 cm, and the marking of the “saddle” itself should be done with a sharp nail or since ordinary pens and markers are easily erased.

Cutting methods

In the process of cutting, it is necessary to use a high-quality tool, which can be a sharp cleaver or a chainsaw. Professional companies use special equipment for this task, which also makes it possible to form the contours of the “bowl” that are almost ideal in size. However, even in the homeland of technology, Canadian hand felling is more often used. How to make the base of the log house in this way? In the lower crown, a spike should be cut down along the central part of the “bowl”. A groove is made in the upper part in the same way. Further, during the assembly process, a heat insulator will be laid in these places. The fitted crowns are again dismantled in order to complete the overlay circle. At the final stage, the crowns are assembled so that the “bowls” are oriented downwards.

Tightness as a feature of the Canadian log house

In the process of designing and building a Canadian log house, it is important to be prepared for the fact that the technique of its formation itself will not provide an adequate level of airtightness. In other words, increased tightness excludes even the slightest ventilation in the walls. In this case, the dignity of the house in the form of high density turns into a disadvantage. The only way to remedy the situation would be to introduce forced ventilation equipment into the log house. Loose fit of logs immediately after construction should not be embarrassing - the shrinkage process eliminates the smallest cracks and seals the log house. Canadian felling, like most technologies for the construction of wooden houses, involves the implementation of additional thermal insulation, which also reduces the opportunities for natural ventilation.

Types of logs used

Do not think that the technology is a solution of the same type with no possibility of making adjustments. The largest space for individual choice is precisely the variety of the main material - logs. Or rather, methods of preparing wood. I must say that Canadian technology requires considerable investment in building materials, so there will be an opportunity to save money. However, you should start with the optimal solution for those who do not want to save on quality. In this case, it is worth preferring a cycled log. Such material retains the natural shape of the surface, which increases the aesthetic value of the log house. Drawing crowns in this design is performed with minimal tolerances, duplicating the complex shape of the elements.

No less attractive is the option of planed logs. All external flaws and defects of the log are smoothed out, which simplifies the drawing process. This is a durable and high-quality processed log, which is inferior to the scraped log only in aesthetic merits. If Canadian felling of log cabins is planned with minimal investment, then it is worth using a planed log, in which the drawing is performed in one approach. However, the tolerances of the "bowls" with grooves in this case increase, which may require caulking.

For beginners in working with log cabins, professional carpenters recommend using a saw for notches in the process of processing logs, and then remove the excess with a chisel. Be sure to have a ready-made log with a correctly made "bowl" in service - this will be an example that you can focus on in your work. In the absence of a reference log, in some cases tin templates are used, which will reduce the risk of inaccurate processing. But in any case, each crown must be additionally checked by level. There are other subtleties in Canadian felling that should be kept in mind. So, if an extra layer was removed during processing, this does not mean that the log becomes unusable. To replenish a few millimeters will allow a layer of insulation that will lie between the logs.

Benefits of Canadian felling

All the advantages of technology are revealed already during the operation of the house. Among them, one can single out the lack of reliability of a dense structure, durability and decorative qualities of a log house. By the way, outwardly the joints look unusual and even resemble patterns. Close mixing of wooden elements also affects the energy-saving function of the house. Heating costs are minimized if high-quality insulation was also performed during construction.

Disadvantages of Canadian felling

The construction process cannot be classified as easy, so inexperienced craftsmen often have problems. This applies to both marking and the process of laying logs. The construction itself requires serious costs if high-quality wood material is to be used. If you use cheap raw materials, then the operational advantages that such a log house should have are more likely to be leveled. Canadian felling allows you to provide good protection from the cold, but only due to the tightness of the structure. As already noted, this nuance does not have the best effect on the ventilation of the house. Structurally, it is impossible to get rid of this drawback during the construction process, therefore, they solve the problem by additionally supplying ventilation systems.

Conclusion

There are many construction techniques. Many of them have many common technological methods, thanks to which a durable, economical in maintenance and simply beautiful log house is obtained. Canadian felling, in turn, has its own unique features. They are mainly expressed in achieving a high degree of joint density, which ultimately ensures both the durability of the house and the optimal microclimate in its premises. At the same time, the technology does not exclude other advantages of wooden structures. These include environmental friendliness, a variety of planning configurations and undemanding maintenance.

Logging methods. Manual felling. Russian cabin VS Canadian cabin. Pros and cons in discussion

From the article you will learn:

1) What are the ways of felling log cabins

1) What are the ways of felling log cabins?

There are a huge variety of ways to cut log cabins, and today, very often, more and more new methods appear, and often this is still a modernization of existing ones, which are used as donors for new ways of cutting log cabins. And to save your time, in this article I will focus only on time-tested ways of cutting log cabins.

The main ways of felling log cabins:

Russian cabin "into the bowl" (with the remainder), which in turn is divided into a cabin with a classic semicircular bowl and a cabin with a hidden spike, is also called with a fat tail. And both the classic cabin and the fat tail can be performed both with the upper bowl (a more modern version) and with the lower bowl (a more traditional version, the roots of which go deep into the history of Russian wooden architecture, almost all monuments of Russian wooden architecture, including the famous Kizhi are made exactly in the Russian felling with a lower bowl)

Russian cutting "in the paw" (without a trace), a colder version, and that is why it was not widely used either in the Russian North or in Siberia, but was used as light buildings, although now log cabins and bathhouses and houses are being cut "in the paw" , not really understanding the purpose of this technology. The most common locks in the cabin "in the paw" are the "dovetail" and the classic rectangle

Canadian cabin - has a wedge-shaped lock - a bowl, which, with careful calculation, taking into account the properties of wood and high quality workmanship, during shrinkage, the upper log is mounted and wedged, thereby preventing cracks in the bowl. And such a connection is considered more reliable, although not proven in practice.

2) What is their main difference. Advantages and disadvantages

Each method of felling log cabins has its pros and cons, its own character, which it is desirable to get acquainted with even "on the shore", in order to avoid surprises. And at the beginning I want to say that today, a perfect method of interventional connections has not yet been invented, and they will not come up with it, because the building material is wood, a natural material that has not only positive and well-known qualities, but also its own features, such as changing sizes, twisting along the axis depending on external factors, on the season, and the only thing that log cabin cutting methods should cope with is to minimize the adverse effects of these changes, namely, the appearance of large cracks, the slope of the walls of the log cabins, the distortion of corners, etc. . Therefore, the bowl must securely hold the log in one place and prevent movement in the bowl itself.

The classic Russian felling with a semicircular bowl is a good option, but in terms of its reliability it is inferior to the Russian felling into a bowl with a fat tail (with a hidden spike), because. this most secret spike (thorn groove) keeps the log from moving along the log. The Russian felling with a lower bowl has an advantage over the Russian felling with an upper bowl (cutting in the oblo), since the bowl itself does not allow the cracked and open longitudinal groove (fossa) to open much, and it is a much more proven option, as I wrote above, almost all the monuments of Russian wooden architecture, and many of them have been exchanged for 300 years, were cut into a Russian felling with a lower bowl. The cutting "in the paw" is cold, due to the characteristics of the wood, they have an increased heat loss along the fibers, and the length of the log is not enough to stop the cold, therefore, the corners freeze through. Canadian felling for Russia is completely new, there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it correctly, in connection with this, a large percentage of defects, Canadian felling today is fashionable, and if it’s fashionable, then you can make money on it, that’s all horrible and they climb to saw it , and in the end it's scary to look at.

3) Which manual felling is better. Russian cabin VS Canadian cabin

Theoretically, the Canadian felling has a slight advantage over the Russian felling into a classic bowl, but still inferior to the Russian felling with a fat tail. What is the basis of my conclusion in favor of the Russian felling into a bowl "with fat tail"?
- The presence of fat tail in the Russian cabin does not allow ventilation of the corners, while in the Canadian one, at the slightest mistake of a carpenter, there will be drafts, besides, I have already said that this cabin is new for us, and there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it
- Kurdyuk keeps the log from moving along the log itself, thus the distortions of the walls are minimal, in the Canadian one nothing keeps the log from moving along the log itself
- The price, my friends, if someone says that the price is not important for him, I will not believe him. As I said, Canadian felling today is a trend and a way of earning, and therefore the price of Canadian felling is inadequately high, on average in Russia it is 20-32 thousand per cubic meter, while Russian felling of a log cabin into a bowl with fat tail will cost from 14 to 20 thousand, the difference is noticeable

Output:
If it is important for you to be in the trend, and there is free money, order the Canadian felling method, but if reliability and time-tested manual cutting technology are important to you, don’t hesitate and order the Russian felling into a bowl with fat tail.

Thanks for attention

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo).

Types of angle chopped joints

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of cabins, in turn, has different design options, which differ in manufacturing complexity, details and efficiency.

Corner chopped joints with the remainder (output) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this method of construction, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure of a wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics depend on the quality of the felling.

Cuttings with residual or with release

Oblo felling

The cutting method leading in simplicity with the remainder and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another such way of cutting is called cutting into a bowl. An interventional longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least laborious, since the log does not have to be turned over - all the necessary operations are performed in the upper part of the log. But, it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, decided by the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet, and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl is easily blown by the wind due to the absence of locking or transverse elements. Especially the situation worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.

chopping

The felling into the okhlupen is also known as the Siberian bowl or okhlupen. It is an inverted version of the connection in the bowl. Its design feature is that the mezhventsovy groove and the bowl are now in the lower part of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. The felling into a flake requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned felling into a wrap, since the log has to be turned over several times in the process of fitting. As practice shows, cutting into a flail can be called a cutting into a flail, therefore it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.

Cutting into a fat tail

The felling in a fat tail differs in an improved bowl. In the design of the bowl, a special additional spike is created, called a fat tail. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the spike of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is remarkable in that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of the corners, since in this case direct blowing is nullified.

When cutting into a fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complicated than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance, fat tail felling is widespread. This type of felling is often referred to as a felling with a cut or with a spike. In camom, however, this is a completely different kind of connection, which is described below.

Hook cutting

Talking about this type of chopped connection into a hook, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature two completely different designs of a corner cut can be called a cut into a hook. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.

The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is chosen only up to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected rest of the bowl. Unlike many other cuts, thanks to this method of connection, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The method of cutting into a hook is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that hooking into a hook is a very laborious process and requires great skill.

The second option differs in that it involves cutting the inner side of the logs and achieving a right angle with even inner walls. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this cut resembles the bowl with a notch mentioned above. The only difference is that from the inside the log is crimped by a quarter of its diameter, and the spike-cut is created equal in length to the value of the heel.

Canadian felling

Canadian felling, despite the presence of common features with fat-tail felling, differs significantly from it in form. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian felling is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected in the log in its lower part. Just like when connecting to a fat tail, a spike is left inside the bowl in the Canadian felling. On the log from the upper side, inclined notches are created, repeating the outlines of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and, consequently, warmth. The most basic advantage of the Canadian lock in comparison with a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.

In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. On the other hand, the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, on the contrary, becomes wedged even more under the influence of shrinkage. All this guarantees excellent tightness and the absence of cracks.

It is worth noting that the Canadian felling consists not only in the non-standard form of the lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which, only in the case of impeccable execution, provide excellent tightness of the structure for many years.

One of the advantages of Canadian felling is the complete absence of gaps between logs. This characteristic feature is observed not only in newly erected log cabins, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, it is enough to lay the insulation in the crowns only once and no longer remember about the caulk.

felling into the saddle

Cutting into the saddle - is a simplified way of Canadian felling with a spike. The only difference between this option is that a spike is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to a Canadian castle.

norwegian felling

Norwegian cabin - almost identical to the Canadian cabin. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian felling is the gun carriage. The Canadian felling is made from a log, and the Norwegian from a gun carriage. Norwegian felling is made from a gun carriage, this is the so-called oval log. At the log, two parallel layers are cut or cut down from two sides, which makes the log oval along the entire length. The corner of the lock with serrations and a spike is similar to the Canadian lock. The walls, thanks to the smooth surfaces of the gun carriage, turn out to be even, and the volume of the room increases. The appearance of a Norwegian log house made of a large carriage is very impressive, the unique pattern of each carriage, the power and color of the house.

Cuttings without residue

Paw connection

This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means that construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside, the corners look perfectly straight. However, this connection method also has significant drawbacks. The main disadvantages of felling in the paw are the lower strength of the structure, increased windage, exposure to the negative effects of precipitation. To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log cabins in the paw must be additionally veneered from the outside.

There are two options for felling into a paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.

straight paw

With this type of felling, a small distance recedes from the corner and the log begins to be hewn from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must necessarily fit perfectly with identical neighbors. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of cutting is that to create the first “paw”, you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure with a large diameter log, you won’t be able to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.

As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw from its inner corner with a rectangular root spike. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. A spike is created on the upper face of the paw, and a groove for it is selected from the bottom side.

Koca paw

Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex way of connecting. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified, now it represents a trapezoid, the two planes of which are sloped. Features of the form formed the basis of the name "dovetail" (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than the "straight leg". However, this type of connection is very laborious and only highly skilled craftsmen can do it.

The skew paw can have an even more advanced configuration option - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. During construction using the “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked on it.

When cutting into a slanting paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002 to select the correct connection options. In GOST, geometric dimensions are established for the paw, due to the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or a rounded (calibrated) log is used.

DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS

Despite the fact that wooden architecture has a long history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, acquiring more and more modern features. This also applies to wooden log cabins. The traditional structural units used for the construction of log walls since ancient times are gradually supplemented with various technical details that improve the performance of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to the shrinkage of logs.

Connecting logs along the length

When constructing large wooden log cabins, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs must be butted with each other. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connection of the logs is made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all joined crowns in a row in height. At least through three rows of joined crowns, a solid log must necessarily go. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done through each row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short pieces of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.

To connect logs along the length, the dovetail configuration with a spike is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple in execution, but due to the shrinkage of logs, its strength may decrease over time.

Another method is often used for joining logs in the cut. With this method of joining, the logs are attached to the dowels. For each joined log, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. In the adjacent perpendicular log, this hole is continued. Joined logs after installation of dowels are carefully connected with perpendicular cut logs.

Another very common way of joining logs is a screed with threaded studs. In this way, grooves are created at the joined logs from above at a small distance from the ends, and a cut is laid from them to the end. Then a stud with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. For the durability of the connection, the grooves (ideally logs) should be antiseptic with special wood preservatives.

Undercut

One of the most important components of the structure of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the moon. To achieve a flawless connection of logs, the interventional groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log adjoins its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and interventional insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has one more significant advantage. Logs due to the shrinkage of wood are covered with cracks from the bottom side. The log literally "sets" when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the log house, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after the occurrence of a crack, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs, which will need to be caulked.

In this specific design of the lunar groove lies the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, tow or moss was traditionally used to insulate interventional joints, the log joints were repeatedly caulked. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, for example tape jute, serve as interventional heaters, the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.

Compensation cut

The use of a compensatory relief cut at the top of the log is another modern refinement of centuries-old technology. The name itself already eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to remove excess internal stresses in the log. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely closed by the next log, which eliminates the penetration of moisture into it. The cut in the process of shrinkage expands, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly, their depth and size decrease.

A cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude at their ends and does not pass through the locks. The absence of cuts at the ends is a very important point. After all, the indents from the ends and cuts are not created for decoration, but to avoid the penetration of cold air from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which goes into the house, and the outer end onto the street. In this case, the creation of a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to a through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for its additional sealing.

Hanging corners

This technology applies to all compounds with a residue. The technology of curtaining the outer corners can significantly reduce the appearance of intervent cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology lies in the fact that the interventional grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little stronger, so as to achieve a 5-8mm gap between the logs. As a result, the releases of logs freely stick out in the air, without leaning on each other.

The advantage of this constructive solution is that, being in the air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log shrinks, the gaps gradually decrease, and the ends, in turn, fit more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to hanging logs on the outer outlets. In this case, cracks would form on the inner parts of the corner, since the inner diameter of the logs would slightly exceed the diameter of the outlets in size.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE LOG

Under the first crown, during the construction of the log house, horizontal waterproofing is laid. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the plane of the foundation, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.

The laying of the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged round logs are then laid. Laying the first crown is given special attention, all operations must be carried out with the utmost accuracy. It is placed in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to carry out antiseptic first crown.

Between the rows of logs, an interventional sealant is laid. So that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to fix it with a furniture stapler.

For joining logs, pins (dowels) are used, placing them from each other at a distance of 1.5-2 m. Nagels used in wooden housing construction are round rods (shank) made of wood of more durable species (oak, birch) than a log house, their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, installations simultaneously drill a through hole in three logs. The length of the dowel must be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel's macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the entire log house, logs and beams, rafters are cut, then the draft floor and roof are mounted. The roof is made temporarily, covered under roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is mothballed for a year, because. the log house should shrink within a year.

After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the truss system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house at home, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which today there is a huge amount. The truss system is re-tightened and the roof is mounted, and then all the necessary internal finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are inserted.

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Finishing materials made of wood - the best for life. With the complex stages of planning and building your home behind you, you are on the cusp of perhaps the most creative stage of the job—furnishing your home. And if a wooden house, as a rule, does not need external decoration, then internal, even the most minimal, is necessary.

Any structure made of wood will be durable and warm if you choose the right type of corner cut. For a long time, real wood craftsmen did not keep their production a secret, so the technology has come down to our days. Due to modern technologies, extensive experience, craftsmanship has improved significantly. In wooden construction, different methods of cutting are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. One of the most popular ways of cutting is cutting into a “tail tail”.

Features of the logging process

For the construction of any wooden structure, two methods of connecting corners are used:

• With the remainder
• without a trace

The first type includes many types of felling: in oblo, in okhlop, in a bowl, in okryap. This also applies to felling in the "Kurdyuk". This type is ideal for those who want to make the log house strong and durable, as well as get rid of blowing through the structure and drafts.

In order to cut into a “fat tail”, the design of the bowl needs to be slightly improved - to cut through an auxiliary spike in it, which is called a fat tail. On the other side of the log, you need to cut a groove into which the spike will enter. This type has some differences from other types of felling in that it gives higher reliability, strength and sealing of corners.

With this type of cutting, the location of the bowl can be any: both above and below the log. This method of cornering logs is much more difficult than other types, but due to its advantages, it is very popular.

Cutting into a "tail tail" is considered a more modern and elaborate version of the "Canadian bowl" technology or.

If during classical felling, battens are used to fasten the logs, then when cutting into fat tail, a special spike is used. It not only adds strength, but also ensures that there are no gaps.

A groove is cut in the upper part of the log, and a spike is cut out in each next material below, and they are connected. This method is quite difficult to manufacture, despite the fact that it looks quite simple.

Today this type of felling is referred to as a tenon cut or undercut, although oblo felling is a completely different way of joining corner logs.

Advantages and disadvantages

This type of felling, like any other, has both its advantages and
and disadvantages. There is only one main drawback - this is the complexity of the process. Not every master will take up cutting into a fat tail due to the fact that the spike and the groove for it are quite difficult to perform. Any careless movement, and the spike can break and you have to start all over again. To do everything right, you need mathematical calculations, a quality tool and experience with it.