Hingers for boxes do it yourself. Master class Materials and tools Simulation Designing MK on a loop for a casket Metal fabric. Video: An example of finishing for a wooden or cardboard box

Those who are passionate about creativity may need loops for the box. It seems that there are no problems in this. Nowadays, the loop for the caskets can be purchased in different specialized shopping fittings.

But if the box is made with your hands from cardboard or from thick paper, then it is practically impossible to choose the right loop.

In this case, the loop for the box can be made with their own hands. Many for this will not have to go anywhere. All materials can be found at home.

After all, in order to make loops for the boxes with your own hands, just two pieces of wire are needed. Yes, yes, it is two pieces of direct wire and nothing more.

One piece of wire should be about twice the long sideways. A longer piece of wire is wound on the middle of a short piece of spiral, the coil to the turn, close (Fig. 1).

After winding the ends of the short piece, the wire bend at the right angle in one direction, as if forming the letter P, on the crossbar of which the dense spiral is wound (Fig. 2). This helix should rotate freely at the crossbar.

So that everything happens neatly, you can use the passage to cover the coils and fill the entire product (Fig. 3).

Do not forget that the Passatages are not only for sanitary or plumbing works, but also small - jewelry. Well, that's all, the loop for the casket is ready and installed (Fig. 4).

The diameter and material of the wire can be the most different, it all depends on which loops you need. You can take a copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm and make miniature loops for a paper box, and you can also take an aluminum network wire with thick cores, free these veins from isolation and make a more durable loop for a plywood box, or even from chipboard. In fact, the thickness of the wire in Fig.4 is not thicker thread, however, the loop copes perfectly with its function.

The number of spiral turns is also selected depending on your goals and wire diameter. Machining loops for small wire boxes, you can wind up the turns of eight. From thick wire you can make 3-4 turns.

Wire can be both copper or aluminum and from other metals. The main thing is that you can carefully make a spiral and bend the ends, not breaking the wire, i.e. It should not be fragile or too rigid.

You can use copper wire in a varnish insulation. Such a wire can be "mined" from old radio or telecommunications, releasing it with transformers. Wire in isolation from varnish pleasantly looks and does not oxidize. The coating can be from light yellow to dark brown.

If you need a silver wire, the lacquer isolation can be removed using sandpaper and fill, coat with a roller with a soldering iron. Such a coating is also not oxidized over time. It all depends on the design of the casket, because the loops should be harmonized with the material from which it is made.

I can not say that the described method of manufacturing the caskets can be repeated at home on the knee. But read, I think it will still be interesting.

I found a lot of pieces of oak boards in the dacha in the village, which sawed in the summer, even before the organization of the Materian. By the way, a cubic meter of dry oak costs from 40 thousand rubles. It is impossible to disappear such good. The stool of such pieces, of course, is not enough, but for the manufacture of oak boxes - just right! In the light of the coming New Year holidays - a great way to save on gifts, without hitting the face.

Before handling such boards on machines, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface from the ground and sand. At the same time, no leaving metal bristles on the boards. For any cutting tools, sand and metal inclusions are worst enemies. Cut off is all too much receiving excellent oak blanks for the box.

From the resulting bars chose the widest and sawing the blanks of the future walls of the caskets in thickness.

When sawing the blanks, the height of the disk was not enough to cut into one pass. The disc, the regular, supplied with the saw, was fully entered into the oak harvest. It can be seen that the saw was hard and had to reduce the feed rate. But despite the difficult conditions, the task was solved successfully.
The next step is fugging. It is needed to align the surfaces of the blanks. Without it, the blanks can have a hollow and deepening on the surface or twist "screw". In addition, Fuganok eliminates scratches and jackets that can stay after saw.

After the fear of the workpiece goes to the reysmaus. This machine makes the second dress precisely parallel to the first, and also makes the workpiece of an accurate specified thickness. In this case, all the walls of the caskets have a thickness of 8 mm.
If we were not aligned with one bit of the workpiece, and waves or "screw" would remain on it after the reysmus the same waves and the "screw" would also be on parallel plastic.

Caskets begin to gain shape.

The next step is a sample of grooves in the side walls for the lid and the bottom. The grooves chose on the milling table. The groove has a depth of 4 mm and indent from the edge of 5 mm. Used the direct bosch mill of 7mm. The edges of the skins are poured at an angle of 45 degrees.
For a more accurate saw dug at an angle of 45 degrees gathered a special carriage. At the beginning, two bar saws from plywood with a suitable thickness such that they are tightly entered into the groove for the transverse stop in the saw table.

And topped the base of the carriage

Bilateral Scotch has been needed for accurate positioning guides based on. Now you fix them with self-draws.

I exhibit and fix the crossbar of the carriage. Preparation will be relying on them, so the accuracy of their installation is very important. I exhibit the saw blade under the desired angle and do the cutting in the carriage. Ready.

Such a carriage allows you to accurately predict the place of cutting. This is important when working with small details.

Pucked from the inside of the lid and the bottoms with a red velvet

And cleaned the first of the box. Because I have only two clamps, the caskets had to glue the box.

The gluing process takes 10 minutes and a few hours to dry.

The sticker on the lid and the donyshko of the velvet turned out to be justified. The velvet is included in the groove with the bottom and getting a smooth neat seam.

Fuling ends on the carriage turned out to be effective. The plank is adjacent to each other tightly along the entire length.

Finally, the caskets are glued, which means you can continue.
The design provides special decorative reinforcing inserts. Such is convenient to strengthen the compounds on the Us. Special slots are made to be made of such inserts in the corners of the caskets. For this, another carriage was collected.

The position of these slots is regulated by special lining. For each new box box, your lining set.

After cutting the grooves, you can finally separate the covers from the box

And inside velvet

For the manufacture of inserts it was necessary to find contrasting wood. I had only oak and pine. Pine somehow Nomomalfo, so the bamboo cutting board decided as raw materials. And use the light part.

And for cutting triangles gathered another carriage

Her together with the previous one can be used in the future in the manufacture of photo frames collected on

Solving one task with the boxes got a whole fleet of carriats

Already at home when gluing tabs it turned out that some are not included in the grooves in thickness. I solved this problem as follows: I pushed them between the sandpaper and grinding and poked for a couple of minutes. Triangles flew into different directions, had to be periodically assembled on the floor, but the goal was achieved.

Inserts are incurred. The next stage is the most vigorous and uninteresting - putty and grinding

Cutting triangles and grinding them in a closure with the surrounding board. Here, no one else reads, but only watch the pictures, so we make a transformer core from a tree

After pre-grinding, the box starts the final appearance.
Ahead is still putty and coating

Already prepared loops and locks. Fasteners - screws 2.5x8.

At the grinding stage, putty and again grinding, I realized that the main tool of the joiner did not drink, and not the chisel, but sandpaper. I didn't want any other tool as much as sandpaper. Especially when fitting the covers to the boxes after the coarse cut of the saw. In addition, it turned out that the usual construction spatula is not the most convenient tool for such work. You need to look for something more compact.

To protect the long-suffering barhal from the lacquer with glue on the edges of the raw tape. Barhahat from grinding a little. In the sense of dust. I cleaned the rag.

Well, the crown of the entire Bashing Epopea - varnish

Skyushka is still.

This is the same stage that can cross all the work done at once.
Laches drying, loops and castles are inspired. Basic epic can be considered completed. Hooray.

1. Hello! Today I have promised MK on the loop. First a lot of text))) And then too))))) If you are used to buying accessories for boxes or use the billets in which everything is there, then this MK is not for you :) MK for those who for any reason loves to do everything possible With your own hands, puts yourself the goals "and I want to do it myself," it does not have the opportunity to buy a suitable looping to a loving made box, well, and a little more mad (like me))))). So, you have a casket and no purchased loop is suitable for it - they are either big and bulky, or it seems small but the lid hangs out of the side to the side (I had it with the first box: the lid with a mirror is heavy, small loops It looks neatly, but the cover throws, I had to urgently invent the replacement). You can go to the construction of a piano loop to buy a piano loop there, cropped under the size, scout and here it immediately matches the question: a cascade cardboard, already ready, the loop was assumed to be glue, it's not to fix it from the opposite side - it means that it will fall off to hell. Hence it does not fit, you need something that will not be cumbersome, it will be able to stick and not fall off and! Most importantly! It will keep the lid as much as possible. As a result of several experiments (and I think about their continuation))) appeared quite simple in the manufacture of the loop.

What will be needed for its manufacture:

1. Pencil (better mechanical - it is more convenient to draw).
2. LINE
3. Macate knife (or stationery)
4. Scissors.
5. Material for loop. I have a crankcore, but you can on any other: dense fabric (which does not succinn), leathesum, leather, maybe even thin plastic.
6. Copper wire (about 1.5 - 1.3mm diameter, it is not worth it too soft), I think it's also possible to replace another material here, it will depend on your fantasy))) I haven't go to the wire .
7. Kusachki
8. Kruglogs
9. Glue "Moment Gel" - It is good for the fact that multiply grapples the glued surfaces do not need to wait long.
It seems to have forgotten anything if I add it along the way.

3.
To begin with, we need our loop to spread. To begin with, it is better to try to make just out of paper. To understand it is suitable or not.
I have a length of the casket 13cm, respectively, the loop should be slightly less, to remain where the copper rod remains. I stopped on a long loop of 11cm. The slots in the center (on the white squares scheme) 1x1cm, the width of the loop 2.2 cm.
For your specific box / boxes, the sizes will differ. I hope the diagram will help in building: O)
I repeat: draw on paper, see if the loop is suitable.

4.

If we all cut out from the material)

5.
Cut the same white squares with a bold knife and scissors. I'm not even simple in the photo, but manicure))
We fold both sides of the loop in half. There must be such gentle structures. The upper and lower should be either in one in one.

6.
Next, we will deal with the preparation of the rod that will hold both parts of our loop. This will probably be the basics of Wirewrap technology))))

1. We bite the desired piece of the wire, I have somewhere 13cm (11 in the loop + 0.5 to fold from two sides + 1 a bent piece), we consider that if the wire beat a little slightly in size (width and length in a broken place).

2. Using a dumping or stationery knife, we clean the wire from the braid.

3-4. If you need to beat off the wire: the metal bar (polished, so that there are no traces left for the wire) and the hammer - slowly beat the edge of the wire (1 cm of the bend). Especially strongly not spilling and the copper will be very thin.

5. Bending the wire with the help of the roundheads. Attention! If you beat the wire from two sides right away, it will be difficult to wear the resulting rod in the loop. Bend one part first, put a loop, and then bend the second tail of the wire. And you need to trace to ensure that both tails of the rod have bent parallel to each other.

7.
The loop dresses in a checkerboard. Lower / top / lower / top.
We get an almost finished loop of this kind. It remains to cry a loop so that it is not going anywhere. And can be glued to the box.

8.
We glue to the box, the rod must be approximately the center between the bottom and the lid of the box. The curved ends of the rod are also glued to the lid so that they do not hang out.

Of course this method has its pros and cons. The technology is not brought to mind) But it works quite well.
I hope this MK will not scare you) it seems to me that everything is simple, but I started writing what it seemed that much and difficult. I hope that at least someone all this will be useful and will push to new thoughts, inventions or a little inspire for creative feats))))

P.S. If suddenly someone wants to overpower the MK in a blog or yet where - specify authorship.
MK I also duplicate in my blog (you can enlarge photos there, so if that Welcome!)

Thanks for attention:)
Waiting for reviews, comments, questions

Hello everyone!
Today I have promised MK on the loop. First a lot of text))) and then too)))))

If you are used to buying accessories for boxes or use the billets in which everything is there, then this MK is not for you :)

MK for those who for some reason love to do everything possible with their own hands, puts themselves the goals "and I want to do it myself," it does not have the opportunity to buy a suitable looting to a loving box made, well, and a little more crazy (like me))) )).

And so you have a casket and no purchased loop is suitable for it - they are either big and bulky, or like small but the lid hangs out of the side to the side (I had it with the first box: the lid with a mirror is heavy, small loops It looks neatly, but the cover throws, I had to urgently invent the replacement). You can go to the construction of a piano loop to buy a piano loop there, cropped under the size, scout and here it immediately matches the question: a cascade cardboard, already ready, the loop was assumed to be glue, it's not to fix it from the opposite side - it means that it will fall off to hell. Hence it does not fit, you need something that will not be cumbersome, it will be able to stick and not fall off and! Most importantly! It will keep the lid as much as possible.

As a result of several experiments (and I think about their continuation))) appeared quite simple in the manufacture of the loop.

What will be needed for its manufacture:

To begin with, we need our loop to spread. To begin with, it is better to try to make just out of paper. To understand it is suitable or not.
I have a length of the casket 13cm, respectively, the loop should be slightly less, to remain where the copper rod remains. I stopped on a long loop of 11cm. The slots in the center (on the white squares scheme) 1x1cm, the width of the loop 2.2 cm.
For your specific box / boxes, the sizes will differ. I hope the diagram will help in building: O)
I repeat: draw on paper, see if the loop is suitable.

If we all cut out from the material)

Cut the same white squares with a bold knife and scissors. I'm not even simple in the photo, but manicure))
We fold both sides of the loop in half. There must be such gentle structures. The upper and lower should be either in one in one.

2. Using a dumping or stationery knife, we clean the wire from the braid.