No matter how paradoxically sounded, but repairs in the most small apartment of the apartment - the bathroom can cost more than the trim of a huge room. To a large extent, this is due to a fairly high price for high-quality plumbing. Yes, and the work of the Masters-Tilenikov will no longer. Significantly reduce costs by making the toilet repair with your own hands. Of course, in this case, the already long-term process will delay even more, but the final amount in the estimate will greatly decrease.

Preparatory work

Where to begin? First of all, it is necessary to remove the old plumbing and finishing materials. To do this, we will need some tool:

• Several screwdrivers of different sizes and sections;
• Screwdriver;
• Gas key number 3 or number 2;
• Perforator;

You can proceed to work. First, dismantle and endure the old plumbing - washbasin, bath, toilet. If the bathroom has a washing machine, start with it.

Important! When planning to live in the apartment during repair, take into account the fact that without a bath and washbasin, it is still possible to do without a toilet, and without a toilet bowl. Try to dismantle it last. After replacing pipes, it can be put back, but not to be attached.

Dismantling washbasin

Whatever design washbasin you have stood, the principle of its dismantling is the same:

• Overcoat cold and hot water;
• Open the mixer's valves and allow the drain of water;
• With the help of an adjustable or gas key, disconnect the flexible hoses;

Important! Disconnecting flexible hoses, remember that water can remain in them. Take care of where it will flock.

• Unscrew the mounting nuts of the mixer and remove it;
• Under the siphon substitute the water collection container and unscrew the glass of the siphon. Drain the water and install the glass into place;
• To disconnect from the sewage system, unscrew the nut under the bottom of the sink, holds the glass of the siphon;
• Unscrew the nut at the top of the siphon and disconnect the drain pipe;
• Remove the wedge-shaking washer and nuts on both sides of the pipe and remove it;
• If the connection of the sewage siphon is cemented, armed with chisel and hammer. Posing the chisel at a right angle to the pipe, take off and remove the solution;
• Remove the siphon from the sewage hole and close it with a special lid. If there is no covers or a non-standard opening - plug up with a cloth so as not to block the flow of water.

Now we remove the sink. "Mojdodyr" simply take out of the room, and we unscrew the sink on the bolts, holds to not fall.

Dismantling bath

Considering the size of this subject of plumbing, they will have to be somewhat longer than with a washbasin:

• We turn off and drain the water;
• Unscrew the siphon nut and remove the drain grille;

Important! If the bath is very old and the nut "Zakipel" will have to break the drain grille. The easiest way to do is from the inside of the bath with a hammer and a small chisel. Remove the funnel segment and bend the remaining part so that it passes through the drain hole of the bath.

• Disconnect overflow;
• We take out the tap tube from the sewage pipe;
• Now it remains to be disconnected by the grounding bar and you can end the bath.

Dismantling toiletza

If you do not plan to use this subject plumbing during repair, you can delete it completely. If there is a need for it, postpone disassembly until the replacement of pipes.

So, proceed. As in the previous cases, overlapping water and drain the remains of the tank:

• We unscrew the supply hose on the water supply;
• We remove the tank from the toilet, after reloading the nut under the shelf. If you have a suspended tank, simply disconnect the tube from the toilet and remove the tanks from the mounts;
• We remove the toilet fastening: unscrew the dowels or twist the nuts with the studs;
• We take out the rubber sockels from the sewer pipe, pre-substituting the tank for the connector. If the toilet is mounted on a cement solution, we again take the hammer and chisel;
• We close the sewer hole with a lid or rag;

We merge water from the toilet and ready.

Cleaning walls and floor

Of course, before making repairs in the toilet, you must decide with the type of coating for walls and floor. Combined bathroom is recommended to be separated by ceramic tiles, and a separate toilet can be saved with washing wallpaper or tinted with plastic. Great looks in this room and lining.

Before laying ceramic tiles, the wall and floor must be cleaned from old finishing materials. It all depends on what they were covered.

If it is a ceramic tile, knock it off. Make it is the easiest way as shown in the video.

If the walls were saved by wallpaper - we remove them and check the strength of the walls. In places where the plaster has moved a little, you need to repel it completely. If the layer of plaster is quite durable and smooth, it can be left.

Important! Quite often in old houses plaster on the walls are imposed unevenly. In this case, it is better to delete it. Otherwise, equalizing the walls you significantly reduce the already small toilet area.

Keeping needed to wash off. If the layer is thick, use the spatula. Wet the surface with warm water using a cloth or from a sprayer, and then remove the entire layer of whitewash.

Painted oil paint walls need to be cleaned especially carefully. Paint residues can significantly reduce adhesion. You can do this with a special tool or manually. These videos will help you master both ways.

Toilet repair with your own hands - video of the process of preparing walls.

Clean the walls from the paint manually.

In recent years, chemicals have appeared on sale, corrosive paint. Although the reviews about them are contradictory - from enthusiastic, to sharp negative - you can try.

Mounting work and finishing

Waterproofing

If the toilet is combined with a bathroom, good waterproofing is necessary. Yes, and in a separate toilet, where, as a rule, undergo central risers of water supply and sewage, it does not hurt.

There are several types of waterproofing materials. The most popular of them are coating and everlastic. The first are produced in the form of mastic and applied to the surface with a brush or roller, and the second represent a self-adhesive film. Using the latter requires careful preparation of walls. So, the surface drop should not be more than 2mm. Caution waterproofing can be applied to unprepared walls. The main thing is that they are clean.

In the combined bathroom, it is recommended to isolate the entire surface of the walls and the floor. Sometimes for the purpose of economy, only areas around the bath, shower and washbasin are protected. This approach makes sense only in sufficiently large rooms. In small bathrooms, the savings of the material turns out so insignificant that it is not worth the "vegetable garden" - it is easier to isolate the entire surface.

In a separate room of the toilet, you can only do without waterproofing of the floor:

• Sleep the surface;
• Get it;
• If there is a crack between the wall and the floor, it must be smeared with cement mortar or tiled glue;
• Corners and joints between the plates (if any) are sampled by a specially sealing ribbon;

Waterproofing material, regardless of the type, it is necessary to apply not only to the floor, but also on the bottom of the wall - about 20 cm.

Replacing pipes

Most often, the repair and sewage pipes are also replaced during the repair of the toilet. In most apartments, central risers pass through this room. If the pipes in your house are old, try to negotiate with your neighbors on top and bottom and replace them. If it is not even possible to replace the entire riser, change the cut pipe passing through your apartment. In this case, the connection place must necessarily be in the apartment where old pipes remained.

Of course, the inner layout of the water supply and sewage should also be replaced. In recent years, the pipes made of polymer materials in recent years can be hide in the walls.

To do this, it is enough to make a stroke in the wall, put pipes and close the stroke with a solution. It should be noted that if a riser passes through the toilet, it makes no sense to hide the rest of the pipes in the wall - the riser to hide anyway will not work. It is much easier to close all pipes with a box.

"Hide" pipes

Agree, even modern pipes crossing the floor from the floor to the ceiling will not add to him aesthetics. So, they must be hidden. You can do this with a box of drywall or plastic with a window for accessing pipes.

To ensure free access to pipes, rollers are sometimes used as shirms. This method will allow not only to hide the pipes, but also to arrange several shelves for economic trifles.

Entering into any search engine Request "Bathroom toilet photo repair" you can easily find dozens of variants of such structures.

Alignment of walls

In order to make the perfect toilet repair with your own hands (the photo of the ideal can choose for yourself on the Internet or numerous thematic magazines) it is necessary to thoroughly align all the surfaces. Let's start with the walls. First of all, with the help of a level, plumb and a corner we measure the curvature of the walls. If it is insignificant, and you chose a tile as a finishing material, it is enough to arm a spatula and tiled glue. In this case, the leveling process is very similar to the process of putty.

If the walls are very curves, you have to plaster. It should be said that the process of this time consuming and for a beginner may be quite complicated. The next video will help to understand all the subtleties of this process.

Thus, equal all the walls.

Paul alignment

A layer of waterproofing on the floor must be covered with a concrete tie. At the same time, a polypropylene fiber polypropylene fiber is better in the solution. This will help avoid shrinking cracks. In addition, floors in our apartments are rarely smooth. So with the help of a screed, we solve two problems immediately - hide the waterproofing and align the floor.

Important! If you decide to arrange a warm floor in your toilet, lay it before pouring a screed.

Fill the screed is the easiest of the "lighthouses". In a small room, it is enough to establish only two guide strips - along the walls. The distance between "lighthouses" should be 1-1,3m. Special plaster beacons are sold in stores, but if you want to save, you can use the trimming of a wooden bar or a metal profile for these purposes for these purposes. The cost of repairing the toilet can be slightly reduced not only by performing all the work itself, but also standing in to send as many residues of building materials into a landfill. Here the main thing is not to rearrange - sometimes excessive savings leads to very deplorable results.

So, proceed:

• I exhibit guides in terms of level and secure them into small slides of the solution;
• Be sure to check the location of beacons relative to each other;
• When the solution is dry, proceed to the fill. We start from the long corner of the room and move towards the door;
• I pour out a few buckets of the solution in the far wall and "stretch" by its rule as shown on video to equalize the walls;
• If deep "pits" turned out, add a solution to them and take place to them again;

After the entire surface of the floor is covered with a screed, let me dry. Usually this process takes several days. Do not try to accelerate it due to the high temperature indoors - this will lead to a significant decrease in the working qualities of concrete. In especially hot days, it is necessary to cover the concrete with a polyethylene film and moisturize once a day.

Important! The term of complete drying of the concrete screed is about a month. It is so much that you need to wait if you laid an electric "warm floor" tie.

Laying tiles

When all communications are replaced, the box is installed, and the floor and walls are aligned, you can start laying the tile. Fortunately, the variety of colors, sizes and textures of this material will satisfy even the most demanding consumer, and the ideas of repairing the toilet can be spacing everything in the same magazines.

First of all, we put the tile on the walls.

• Measure the height of the wall and divide it to the height of the tile. Thus, you will receive the number of entire rows. Then calculate the height of the circumcision tile.

Important! By producing the calculation of the height of the circumcision tile, be sure to take into account the gap between the rows. It is usually equal to 2-3mm.

• Measure the distance equal to the height of the cropped row and at the level of attaching a flat wooden bar or metal profile;
• At the corners of the wall, using a plumb, fastened vertical strips - they will serve as a vertical level;
• Cooking mortar. To do this, in the prepared container, we pour water and small portions sup the adhesive composition. We stirrate the construction mixer (special shock for a drill).

The required proportion is usually indicated on the package. But the final decision must be taken on the consistency of the solution: it should stay on the wall and do not flush, and at the same time be enough elastic and smeared.

Tile laying technology on the walls and the floor is perfectly shown in the next roller. In addition, from it you will learn how to cut the tile and rub the stitches. In the video, experienced masters do not use vertical levels, but those who took the tile laying for the first time better to be reinforced.

Toilet repair - video instructions for laying tiles

Ceiling

The ceiling in the bathroom can be almost any - plastic, tension or drywall. The latter is less preferred, but if you really want to do it from moisture-proof GLC. In this case, it must be borne in mind that such plasterboard sheets are heavier than ceiling, which means that the supporting structure must be enhanced.

Installation of sanitary ware

You can start by installing plumbing already in a day after the stamps of the seams on the tile. A variety of models of toilet bowls, washbasins and shower cabins do not allow us to provide general recommendations on their installation. As a rule, in the delivery kit there is an instruction that will help you cope with the last stage of repair.

That's all. Now you know exactly how to make the repair of the toilet: where to start, what to pay special attention to how to save as much as possible. As you can see, the repair process in this small room takes a lot of time and strength. I am glad only what it is done quite rarely. Of course, if all the work is performed correctly, and the materials are selected with taste.

After the new beautiful apartment is purchased, you will need to repair. Repair in the new building is inexpensive, quickly and efficiently. Excellent masters will always help you.

Now I want to save everything, including repairs.

And if, entering your own toilet, you finally understand that it requires at least cosmetic repair, it is not necessary to hire builders.

You can get together with the forces and make repair toilet do it yourself. And if you do not imagine where to start, the most correct option will be visited by relatives, close friends and neighbors to fold for themselves the picture, how your new toilet should be. At the same time, pay more attention to technologieswhich were used during repairs.

Now in the building materials market exists lots ofvarious primers and lubricants that improve. Therefore, you can easily choose the material suitable for you.

If there are slots and dents in the walls, they must be predetermined cement solution. After its complete drying, the walls and the ceiling must be thoroughly projected.

Installation of pipes

Of course, you can replace the whole riser, but it is better to call specialistand agree with the neighbors.

If the replacement of the riser is not included in your plans, you can stay on the segment of the pipeline passing through your apartment.

However, if you are not sure about your abilities, it is better to leave the pipe replacement for later. It should also be borne in mind that they can hidein a special decorative box or locker.

Paul alignment

FirstlyThey are cheaper. BUT secondly, have excellent sound insulation, durability, and they are very easy to mount.

Initially, you need to decide how much you buy.

Depending on the perimeter of the toilet and the presence of shelves and boxes, calculated square. m. panels occupied. You also need to purchase plinths and metal profiles to which the facing panels will be attached. It is advisable not to buy very thin plastic because it is less durable. Prefer materials with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

So, initially need to make up framefrom metal siding with mandatory use of a plumb. At the same time, the profiles are desirable to fasten to the ceiling so that it does not rush over time.

Then start collectdirectly plastic panels, sage them on a dowel. It is necessary to do it very carefully, because plastic, even despite its thickness is quite fragile.

After the end of the joints of the corners is desirable obtainsilicon glue, so that moisture does not get there. The plinths, located on top, can also be glued with silicone, the bottom is screwed up with dowels.

It looks great, it is convenient for him and just to care.

Repair toilet Oboyami

it the most budget from existing options. For repair you need certainly washablewallpaper of good quality based polypropylene or polyester.

Walls should be good preparedThey should not have paint residues or plaster, because your new wallpaper can simply fly from them.

The surfaces are processed by waterproofing and primer in order to avoid the appearance of fungus and the best surface hitch. Also when using primer, you will save a little on the glue.

Wallpapers are glued using plunderand thorough strokes of the seams. Plus such repairs is his budgetand simplicitywallpaper sticking. However, such a toilet will not be very practical, and in a few years you will again have to take for construction tools.

Thus, it is not so difficult and expensive. You can always choose building materials for your wallet and preferences. What is just not to save, it is plumbingand tile. And in general, a bit of the power of will, smelting and desires, and in a couple of days you will brag that we have mastered the new profession of the builder.

August 5, 2016
Specialization: Professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewage to electrician and finishing), installation of window structures. Hobbies: Watch Column "Specialization and Skills"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing works, then the repair of the toilet will be with your own hands for you excellent training: a small area of \u200b\u200bthe room will significantly reduce the temporary and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice the fulfillment of a variety of operations.

Of course, the repair and design of the toilet can be implemented according to the most different schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, taking into account both the preparation for finishing, and facing the floor and wall tiles, and the installation of the suspended ceiling, and the installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in a 137 series of typical apartments, the toilet size is 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option using the materials available and not too complex materials.

Solving where to start repairs in the toilet, it is worth assessing its original state. And if it becomes obvious that to bring the room in a decent view, a complete reconstruction is required, first of all we will delete the old finish. For this:

1. We dismantle the toilet disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing from the stand fixing the product to the floor.
2. Inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement - dismantle them.
3. We remove the old finish - tile, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, apply either a perforator or a drill with a nozzle in the form of a rigid wire brush.

1. When complete reconstruction is planned, dismantle and old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep strokers, then they can not be removed - it is enough to de-energize the branch and crop conductors close to the wall.
2. After removing the construction waste, we proceed with an antiseptic surface. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after completing the finish.

We deploy communication

At this stage, we need to pave all communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply system pipes and wiring.

In the Typical Building panel house very often it is in the toilet running vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a comprehensive reconstruction, it is here that the distribution unit should be laid, hiding all the taps of pipes in a special cabinet or box.

Performing toilet repair, I usually do this:

1. First, laying the sewer pipe connecting the toilet with the riser. Usually, this segment is not distinguished by a significant length, therefore it is possible to lay it with a minimal bias toward the drain. Pointing for direct connection I choose with such a calculation so that it corresponds to the configuration of the unitary release - direct or inclined.
2. At the same stage, laying drain pipes connecting the sewer riser with a bathroom and. Pipes fix on the wall of the clamps, following the slope of about 2 cm on the traffic point meter.

1. In the riser of cold water, we cut a tee to which we connect a drainage tank. If the bathroom is planned to install a school (such options are implemented in visits to the larger area) - I do two separate removal with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be done hidden, so under the pipes will have to cut individual shoes.

Think out in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need (let you not plan to install it right now) - immediately lay the pipe wiring for its installation.

1. Wiring to install the outlet for the water heater laying in the stroke. For lighting on the ceiling I carry a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which fixes wire suspensions.

1. From a wooden bar, impregnated with antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box for masking of risers, pipe wiring and other elements. It costs to sneak directly before finishing - so we will not damage the gyroxes during other works.

Actually, on this preparatory operations end. After that we turn to the finish.

Finishing toilet

Ceiling

Thinking on how to make repairs in the toilet, we must first approve the order of finishing work.

The masters practice a variety of schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - it is minimized by the probability of staining or damaged the "finishing" plot, and I do not have to spend time on the masking of the already decorated surfaces with film, fabric newspapers, etc.

It is based on these considerations, I prefer to start with the repair of the ceiling:

1. On the perimeter of the room at the top I cut off the smooth line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the overlap.

The indent depends on the dimensions of the embedded lamps. If you plan to use low-size lamps, then 40 mm can be enough.

1. On the line I set on the walls or the starting profile of galvanized steel, or a wooden bar.
2. At the ceiling using metal suspensions, the guides fastened: they also do either from the bar or from metal profile. The fixation of all parts to the bearing surfaces is performed using a dowel for express installation.
3. After completing the work on the framework, we bring the wires to the places where it will be installed.

1. To the profile fixed around the perimeter, fasten the special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. For fastening to a tree, I use galvanized brackets that score with the help of a construction steppler.
2. The most inexpensive, but at the same time, the practical option is the ceiling cover with plastic panels. Cutting on PVC cut into size, after which I install it on the ceiling: the ends need to be started in the packing grooves, and the edges of the locks are fixed on the bars of the frame with a steplera.

1. In the selected location, I do a hole in the plastic panel through which the wires displays to connect the lamp. I usually put the device at the very end of repair, so that the lighting uses a temporary design from the incandescent lamp with a cartridge, accumulated to the wires with a tape.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I turn to the walls. The optimal option here will be a facing of a tile: a small area significantly reduces the cost of purchasing and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

1. Checking the walls using a level, and if necessary, perform a rough alignment. For high-quality cladding, it is important that the drops along the plane are not exceeded 5 mm per 1 m - everything that is less can be compensated by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When aligning, it is desirable first to try to knock down all the protrusions by a perforator, and then stabbing concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, and even in such a room, as a bathroom is difficult, long and expensive.

1. Walls processing antiseptic primer: It not only improves adhesion of adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tile.
2. Frames of the box with pipes we cover moisture-resistant plasterboard.
3. Tile tile is soaked in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows many times to improve adhesion to glue, which is important, especially if you do not have sufficient experience and work slowly.

1. I am preparing an adhesive mixture, spreading a dry component in cool water. Glue thoroughly mixed with the help of a drill's nozzle: to do it at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now proceed to the facing:

1. I take a level and nano on the wall markup, conducting lines at the bottom edge of each row. Between the rows I make indents: the thicker tile, the wider there may be seams.
2. With the help of a grater, we nano on the wall of the glue layer. The toothed edge of the tool form a furrow for a uniform distribution of the composition.
3. It is important not to apply glue to too much plot. Focus us in the speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not be filled!
4. On the markup I apply the tile to the wall, pressed and align. Spatula Gently remove protruding excess glue.
5. To preserve the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic remote crossbars.

Tile on the walls are laid by rows, top down. To obtain a beautiful pattern, it is possible to place elements with a displacement - while tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 width. The accuracy of laying is checked using a level and plumb, if necessary, the position of the tile is adjusted and the adhesive composition is added / removed.

After completing the facing, I give surfaces of 12 hours on the polymerization of glue, and then suture the seams. Grout is a paste, which is filled with gaps between the tile: so we not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from the penetration of moisture.

When the grout dries, I will remain the last, purely cosmetic stage: wash the tiled cladding and wipe it with a clean dry cloth. If we were sufficiently neat and removed from the surface of the excess glue and the grout mixture from the surface, then this task will not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before repaired with your own hands, the floor in the toilet, I usually appreciate its condition. In most cases, the restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, because the first part of the work on the floor is performed before finishing the walls.

1. To begin with, the base is once again cleaning from dust and garbage and impregnate the penetrating primer.
2. Then with your own hands we nano waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the overlapping and placing the places from leaks, because here it is worth forming the so-called "trough" - not only the floor, but also the walls at a height of about 15 cm are covered with waterproofing.

1. On top of the waterproofing, pour the leveling screed with a thickness of up to 50 mm. For the fill, I use self-leveling formulations with a rapid hole: the price is higher than that of the standard cement-sand mixture, but they are also saving time, and at times.

1. After drying the screed (at best, it will take three or four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, you will have to wait for two or three weeks) processing the surface of the floor with soil.
2. I choose only the floor tile: it is also stronger, and less slippery. Attempts to use a cheaper wall tile will lead to the fact that after a couple of years, the floor will have to shift.

1. On the base with the help of a grater, we nano tiled glue on a cement basis. Equally distributing the glue composition over the surface of approximately 1m2 and proceed to the facing.
2. Tile laying either by rows, or alternating in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, performing cladding in black and white.
3. As in the case of decoration of the walls, I preserve the width of the gaps using remote inserts.

1. After the facing I give glue to dry, I sink sutures, drying the grout, my and wipe the floor.

Installation and Connection Plumbing

The toilet repair itself is ends, but we still have to install the equipment. Here, special difficulties are not expected, but to work, especially, except the toilet, the Russian man also needs to be needed, there will be quite a few:

1. Toiletz install on the floor in the selected place, using either a special rubber lining, or a wood board impregnated with moisture protection.
2. On the site of the mounting holes, we make the mark, remove the toilet and the perforator, try the nests for fixing the product.

1. In the nest clog the dowels, we set the toilet to the place and fix the anchor bolts. At the same time, the release of the toilet or we bring directly into the sewer tube, or connect with it using a flexible corrugation.

1. We set the tank from above, which is fixed on the base with screw nuts.
2. To the tank side or bottom we attach cold water hose.
3. We apply the sink to the wall and mark the place of attachment.
4. On the markup drill holes, in which, as in the case of the toilet, score plastic dowels.

1. Next, either fastened to the wall of the brackets, for which we install the Russian Federation, or the sink itself is fixed on the basis of anchors with cape nuts.
2. We connect a siphon to plum a siphon, which is flexible corrugation with a sewer pipe.
3. We establish a mixer, putting flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
4. After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the performance of the system and control the absence of leaks.
5. Then we take the prepared embedded lamps, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps into the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready, and they can be used!

Cost of consumables

To answer the question, how much does the repair of the bathroom cost, you need to know and its area, and what materials will be used, and will we finish independently or refer to the specialists. However, even with the most accurate estimates, the estimates tends to increase, so that the budget should be embarrassed by about 30% more than it is possible on the calculations.

To facilitate budgeting, we advise you to use a table containing the estimated prices for materials used in the repair of the bathroom. Of course, this information is exclusively reference in nature (prices were taken as the basis of online stores), but the idea of \u200b\u200bthe order of numbers is fully:

Material	unit of measurement	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
CM 9 tile glue	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tile	5 kg	600 – 1200
Primer penetrating with antiseptic	5 L.	250 — 500
Self-leveling mixture for floors	25 kg	280 – 750
Tile for walls budget	m2.	45 — 90
Tile for the walls of the middle price category	m2.	250 -500
Tile floor ceramic	m2.	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for internal works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for plasterboard	panel 3 M.	50 — 150
Suspension for plasterboard	pC.	5 — 25
Bar wooden for frame	panel 6 M.	80 — 200
Lining PVC for ceiling cover	m2.	150 -250
Sewer pipe for outdoor operations 110 mm	1 m.pog.	125 — 200
Pipe sewer for internal works 50 mm	1 m.pog.	75 — 150
Pipe Watering Metalplastic 16 mm	1 m.pog.	70 — 120
Fitting crimp for metal-plastic pipe	pC.	250 — 500
Mixer with short spout	pC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive Santeri Waterman	pC.	900
Unitaz-compact Santek	pC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, hoping how to make repairs in the bathroom, you need to consider that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealant, gaskets, etc. So the budget voiced above will not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of polygon for "running" the skills of a novice builder, a decorator, plumbing and an electrician. Focusing on the recommendations given, tips in comments and videos in this article, you can lay the foundations of your skills, and in the future it is successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016.

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Budget repair of the bathroom and toilet with their own hands.

Good day, gentlemen and ladies! I want to tell my story of the bathroom and toilet repair, separate. With the purchase of an apartment, the bathroom repairs was postponed for 3 years, as there were other rooms with priority. That came the right time, just on vacation with the whole family in another city, spontaneously decided to come home a month earlier until the end of the holidays. It was at the beginning of 2016, all the materials were therefore bought in the city of Mirny, if it was planned in advance, it was possible to order from the mainland and would have received substantial savings. The budget turned out in the region of 150 thousand (approximately, more + -30 thousand), purely on materials. The main amount is recruited with bath, tiles, plumbing. All the work was mostly done by himself, if they did other things to the amount of materials, you can safely add 150-200 thousand for the work (probably). In our city, all prices are very overpriced, this is a fact.

We have a house of 1996, the square is small, the bathroom toilet balcony is very tiny. But the prices of the apartments are standing in Yakutsk, and in squares it turns out less.

Probably post in the form of a photo report with notes. A lot of photos turned out.

Go. Housing problem.

On the floor lay old Soviet square tiles, which were glued or with a concrete or super glue, hammered 3 days 3 nights). Neighbors sorry again. The walls were glued on the walls that were painted.

A good semi-professional assistant in the affairs of repair and cleaning carpet.

I caught a tile. We no longer remember how much they cost. Wallged cost 110 rubles / tiles. Russian production. Quality for 3 with a minus. Even in one box, the size in length and width differ, so when glue, the level begins to play. And if you ordered in advance from the mainland, then for this money it was possible to order branded imported tiles, they have no such jacket.

Simple toilet, for 7 thousand carl. Big mistake.

Acrylic bathroom, I like, volumetric. Length 150 cm.

The old bath was metallic. quickly cooled.

We follow the preparation of the base of the floor. Applying primer deep penetration. Then a concrete screed.

Neighbor's neighbor Lyuba did customs from time to time, soft delicious buns!

Works on the replacement of old metal pipes. Called Plumbers with housing and public utilities, they blocked the water, made from the risers of DHW and the rh3 of the transition to plastic, and also installed 2 counter, 1 heated towel rail. Having devastated my wallet for 10 thousand.

This photo shows how old metal pipes are clogged.

For a complete replacement of pipes, another 15 thousand rubles were asked. This is still without strokes. And the wife had an interesting idea. Looking at YouTube, the video on the installation of polypropylene pipes decided to do. Bought a welding machine for 2 thousand rubles. In principle, nothing complicated. The main thing is not to reap the pipes in the welding machine.

I did not like paint on the wall. To remove paint made from a 5 liter bottle. Here is a design with a compound with a vacuum cleaner. The result was not particularly pleased, because For a very long time, dust and noisy. I will say in advance, it's easier to do how to do: paint that leaves itself - we clean, then we pass the scraper or a chisel in paint again, then we buy a solution - Betonacton, we apply it all. The surface becomes drunk, like a rude sandpaper. Tiled glue calmly on it.

Here on the wall traces from the Bulgarian.

Since the floors are not very smooth, the tilt is 3-5 cm per meter, it is necessary using the so-called beacons (green points on the floor) to make a flat level. Then you throw a solution of concrete between the beacons and connect beacons. According to these lines, we will fill in the inner squares.

As a result, we get a smooth floor. On the right there will be a bath, so there I decided to save concrete, level with the help of legs.

Glue tiles, between the tiles we make a distance of 2mm, with the help of crosses. In the future, the interlocking space fill in a special grout.

Install the bath. Behind the bathroom launched the wall and put the pipe from the mixer there. When you switch the mixer mode on the shower - water will go from above. This is the idea of \u200b\u200bhis wife.

On the left of the stroke for an email, they connected the washer and made outlets. Right to the shower. Red is a layer of concrete contact.

2 mixer)) The bathroom is filled 2 times faster))

On the wall we begin to glue the tile from the bath level. First we pass 1 horizontal line, then 2 row of tiles. How to glue a tile can be viewed on the Internet, I watched YouTube)). There you can find the entire technological process of repair.

By the way, we have, very curves, then a propeller with a slope ... nightmare. And no one could smoke the walls and could not have time. The most difficult areas were corners. More glue, time and nerves. Now the walls are not curves at all.

My mistake. Printed the mirror on the tile glue. The mirror is old since the former owners.

Here it is very clearly visible. From above, the angle goes backwards, and the bottom begins to disperse. The question decided grouting and more glue)).

The ceiling has already been made. Lighting - 5 point diode lamps, grabs the eyes. The shower is installed, it works well (China), bought in Yakutsk, I do not remember in which store.

Floating glue spoiled reflective layer.

Dismantling with your favorite perforator.

I bought a countertop usual, we have nothing in the city in addition to ordinary things. Or in Tornogoga will make the order "type cool".

Found a bedside table just in size.

Not a single centimeter between the washing table and the bathroom. Iniquit My perfectionism is buzzing. The worktop set to the corners into the wall and on the bedside table. Keeps hard. Although jumping.

Voila. The junction was smeared with white sealant.

Here is the final result.

Dear members of the forum and not yet defined guests! That made cosmetic repairs of the bathroom and the toilet and especially for you fell all the process. I will be glad if my modest photo report saves someone from you some time, money or nerves
We are talking about a separate bathroom in a typical trip of the house of the series and (209) a.

With a huge bathroom (150x140) and majestic toilet (110x70)
All this is enclosed in a box of asbetic sheets height 230.
Immediately make a reservation - initially it was decided to make a modest cosmetic repair without transferring the walls and installing the jacuzzi. Just that it was nice to go there, no more.
So, proceed.
Here is what was:

A creepy spectacle, isn't it?
To begin with, knocking up the old tile.

The tile is riveted easily, it was glued for 20 years ago it is unknown to what. But the old glue remains on the wall and it must be removed. Otherwise, the new tile does not put normally. The old glue is removed along with the paint, to which it has been applied using a thermal gun (construction hairdryer) and a spatula.

Deleted easily. But the work is tedious and not interesting. Along the way a tile is knocked down on the floor. In the toilet, I shot it down, because She held it bad there, and in the bathroom she kept firmly, so there I left it as a base for a new tile.

Along the way, replaced the eyeliner to the washbasin.

About adventure, with this related, see section "On errors learn"
Also in the interruptions between cleaning the walls, I change the plums in the bathroom

It is naturally no longer unscrewed, so it remains only to cut.

That's what your inside the pipes are actually going on

It is not to break through anything, so put the removable plastic pipes of 50 mm, which can always be removed and cleaned. What I did.

To be continued...

We continue to repair.
Drain-overflow was bought as:

The cast iron tube in the toilet was also not removed, so it was broken with a hammer (a few neighbors hanged himself)

And the flexible corrugation is inserted through the rubber gasket.

This in the future helped the toilet could be moving there and here when laying tiles on the walls. Otherwise it would be uncomfortable.

Since it is impossible for a long time without a toilet bowl, immediately put the tile on the floor and put a new toilet (with a guarantee of the Neponnyukoknobol, without screwing it until the floor.

Then removed old doors with the box. And here it stalled.
The boxes for them were previously made specifically for this configuration of the bathroom, and to insert new doors to be pretty perplexed with new jambs. The fact is that insert a standard box in such an opening with thin walls, and so that the size under the door canvas is fully problematic. Open:

I had to turn the jambs with an additional bar (in the photo - white)

Then he joked the doors, cut the handles and locks and glued the platbands outside.

Before this, there was an electrician between the doors, replacing the wires for copper and cut the place under the mortise switch.

To be continued...

I removed the flexible wiring in the riser and put filters for a split. Pipe pressed the bars.

Metalplastic decided not to put. Many of the way to start it over the wall, and live in this apartment (I hope) has not been left for a long time.

Now the heated towel rail.
The wife wanted instead of a curved pipe ladder with a shelf. No sooner said than done. The eyeliner there, naturally, is completely different. To begin with, he called the Jansk Plumbing, which blocked the water, told the jumper, cut the old heated towel rail and put the taps. (For all-about everything - 5 tyr.)

The pipe hid between the walls, making feeding with a grinder

All, you can put a tile ...
The tile was purchased 10x10 cm, slightly different from each other and with uneven edges. The uneven edges are very helpful to inexperienced tiles (such as me). They forgive small shifts in the masonry - as if so conceived.

After a long study of the market (the main technologist "Knauf" was already ready to give me a chemical formula), glue and primer were chosen "Lugato", these are:

Ideal for applying on a flexible surface (asbetic sheet). True, expensive, infection. By 12 sq.m. walls and 2 sq.m. Floor left exactly 3 bags of 25 kg.
Without plastic cutter - nowhere, I had to buy

But without Bulgarian - too. Cutout cutting outlet for a hair dryer and a light switch above the mirror in the bathroom:

The glue can be applied to the wall, and on the tile, where it is more convenient. You can put on top down - does not slip.

Since the bathroom itself and the sink green, bought a bit of the same tile, but a green shade. Its amount gradually reduced bottom up. Tile in the bathroom on the floor - also greenish.

The mirror bought almost all over the wall - 120x60 and decided to hang it on the tile, but to make flush with tiles. To do this, stuck behind the two-way tape 3m rubber of the desired thickness

Also, the rear surface pasted scotch, so that fragments did not scatulate, if suddenly disassembled. And hung.

Now the ceiling.
Since the ceilings and so low, and the task was put to make a suspended with the built-in light, I screwed up a thickness of only 2 cm, and the holes cut into the lamps right in the asbetic ceiling. There are 20 cm of empty space.

And put the plastic panels, cutting in them the pre-holes under the lamps and fans. Fans are turned on simultaneously with the main lighting. The lamps are energy-saving, that is, they do not bask, which is important for the bathroom.

Then put the seams. Here I came to the rescue my best friend - Wife

Installation of the towel rail:

And shells. The holes under the sink drilled by a special drill:

The mixers bought "Damixa".
Plinth and flags in the bathroom and toilet made from tile

Now you can glue the platbands from the inside:

Well, all sorts of baubles

Well, it came out something like this:

Although, not still completed ..
I want to hide into some plastic box the sewer tube from the bathroom and sink. And still not invented how it is better to make the back wall and the door in the riser.