Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. Technology laying ceramic tiles on the wall with their own hands Laying of tile tiles do it yourself

The vast choice of outdoor ceramics does not affect the basic rules of its installation. There are many characteristic features, technological nuances, without knowledge of which you can get at all what you expect.

Absolutely all manufacturers of ceramics insist: it is necessary to start at all from testing the basis for compliance with the regulations, but from checking ceramic finishing and developing its laying plan.

Your primary task is to choose the design and caliber product correctly. As a rule, in stores stands are facing the cafeter of one collection in the optimal, according to plant designers, calculation. Approximate variations can be viewed in professional catalogs on the sites of manufacturers or in the trading halls.

You can change, complement or completely repain the proposed design to your taste. To do this, ask you to provide you with several samples of the main tile, and its components (borders, decors, panels, etc.) and form a suitable layout suitable for your room.

But keep in mind - entering the room, first of all, the center of the room or the area that is completely free from furniture and equipment is thrown into the eyes (the so-called free patch). In small kitchens and bathrooms, this is usually no more than 1-2 m². Therefore, laying the tiles on the concrete floor should be planned in such a way that the center fell precisely on visible square meters of the square. Due to this simple reception in the "empty" region, one-piece elements will be pasted, and the cutting - only around the perimeter. This is especially important if there are uneven walls.

Design planning with displacement.

The next stage is the choice of floors of floor ceramics. There are several basic species:

Due to the wide variety of formats and types of tile (elongated strips, polygonal, oval products, etc.), the installation of floor ceramics can be carried out on parquet schemes (Christmas tree, braid, deck, squares), chaotically or modular (combining variance facing).

If it is assumed to use decorative elements or a combination of colors, then do not be lazy to make a drawing on a scale. The development of such sketches from the ceramics of one series, thickness or manufacturer, you can also claim consultants in shopping centers specializing in ceramic facing. As a rule, plants provide not only relevant computer programs, but also special devices (externally resembling ATMs), on which even an inexperienced user can form its own floor design, and in a two-or three-dimensional version. BUT! If you want to compose the tiles of different manufacturers and calibers, then be sure to make the thickness coincide perfectly, to a millimeter. Otherwise, it is absolutely different to put the tile independently, without flaws it will not work.

The layout is better to think over in advance to acquire the required amount of facing material. The calculation of the required quadrature is made on the basis of:

Surface Square

The specified value should be divided into an area of \u200b\u200bone element, taking into account the interputric seams. If the tile has a complex form or in one design, different format ceramics are used, then it is better to draw a drawing.

Tiles sizes

The number of integers and cropped elements in one row depends on this. To calculate the first magnitude, you can ask consultants to make calculations in special programs (provided by sellers of manufacturers) or to use the formula:

If, in accordance with the perimeter project, it is necessary to lay out the frieze and the seal (a wounded section of the main or complementary tiles), then the overall figure should be designed with such a calculation so that the border stripe is stacked from the integer elements, and full or tropped tiles can be used on an entry border.

Paul from tiles with border frieze.

When buying a ceramic tile, be sure to take a small margin, that is, it is necessary about 10-15% more required. Partially finishing material will go in trimming, a possible fight or will be useful in the future for repairing damaged elements.

Styling techniques

In which cases, the tile is laid with a gap or seamless method, with direct or zigzag seam? It depends not on your desire, but on the characteristics of the floor material. First, the monolithic canvas look, of course, beautifully, but is performed only from rectified porcelain stoneware. That is the most stable and resistant to lining temperatures with edges treated on special machines. Itself put this material without solid work experience is very difficult.

Secondly, almost all ceramic products for the floor should be mounted with a gap. The larger the size of the products, as well as the load, the wider there should be seams, otherwise various defects (cracks, etc.) will appear in the future due to seasonal deformations. Recommended values:

For caliber tiles from 5x5 to 30x30 cm - 1-1.5 mm;
For ceramics with dimensions from 30x30 to 60x60 cm - 2-5 mm;
For products of large formats from 60x60 cm and more - 5-10 mm.

Interputer seams: zero, narrow and wide.

The selection of the seam option is directly or curved, it also depends on the shape of the tiles, design features. Some collections suggest laying the basics with inserts, joining the drawing in a certain order, etc. This information is available on the box.

So, we approached the finish line. Facing is chosen, the layout option is approved, you can start the last step - the selection of outdoor material in quality. When buying, pay attention to the following:

The tiled of higher grades should have a single thickness, width and length (limit deviations, as a rule, do not exceed 0.5 mm), as well as the same shade, without divorce, strips, foreign inclusions, stains, chips, small cracks, scratches, irregularities and other pattern defects.
The glaze should be uniform, without inclination and influx, the surface - as smooth as possible with a minimum of negative (concave) or positive (convexity) deviations from the plane, and the side edges - without sowers, irregularities, shcherbinok. It is easy to check it easily - connect the two tiles among themselves to the ends and the front parties, carefully inspect. Any deviations negatively affect the evenness and aesthetics of the future floor.
The acquired kit must be from one batch and one tone, which guarantees the absolute identity of all elements in color, caliber and other parameters. This information is indicated on the box.
Tiles should be cleaned of packaging and paraffin or wax protective coatings that are applied to the surface of some collections for scratch protection during transport.

Tools and materials

To mount the tile with your own hands, prepare the desired set.

Including tools:

roulette and metal ruler;
rake and moisture meter;
levelier and the Galnik;
marker for applying marking on facing elements (basic and complementary tiles, decors, borders, etc.);
marking cord;
electric cutter on a tile or manual tiles, special saws for ceramics for the formation of curly cuts or a drill with cups-nozzles for drilling round holes for pipes;
plastic and mixer bucket for kneading glue;
stretch and toothed spatula for applying a solution. The choice of the last tool number depends on the dimensions of the tile, and the more the facing element, the larger the size of the teeth of the spatula;
passatia;
kiyanka and spatula for stamping seams;
sandpaper for processing tile sections;
mounting gloves and knee pads;
bucket, sponge and soft fabric to remove spokespring adhesive composition.

Materials will be needed:

Ceramic tile with a complete set of shaped elements;
The adhesive mixture is cement or polymer corresponding to the specificity of the base (mineral screed, wood, plywood, etc.), as well as the conditions of operating cladding. That is, allowing putting the tile on the floor in heated or unheated space, to the heated base, in shower or pools;
Primer emulsion;
Waterproofing of a suitable type (in wet rooms);
Grout cement or polymer and water-repellent impregnation for seams;
Silicone sealant. It will take in order to handle joints, internal and external angles;
Crossings for interputric seams or tile alignment system (SVP).

Since the internal work is used mainly not frost-resistant ceramics, manufacturers recommend installing at a temperature in a room at least +5 ° C and no more than +30 ° C with a humidity of 40-60%. Outdoor decoration, including facing facades, steps, is carried out only in the warm season.

Phased instruction

The quality of installation works depends on the service life and ease of operation of floor ceramics. This axiom, unfortunately, is often neglected, and in the end, it turns out a fragile, ineterial or defective coating. Therefore, we recommend complying with all the rules from the preparation of the foundation to the exposure time of the grout.

The process can be divided into 6 stages:

Preparation of the foundation

The quality of the draft floor should provide the possibility of creating a layer under a tiled coating from a glue cement solution with a thickness of 2-15 mm, under mosaic - up to 20 mm. Therefore, the following actions are necessary:

The base should be;

By the beginning of the work of pipelines and other types of communications, laid in overlaps, must have issues in accordance with the design of the premises. Do not forget that on large areas you need a uniform device of expansion seams to compensate for temperature and hygroscopic base deformations. When laying the tile on a concrete or mineral tie indoors, it is recommended to arrange thermal places every 20-25 m² of area, with an external facing - 16 m².

In small rooms, the role of temperature-shrinking seams plays a gap of 4-5 mm wide around the perimeter between the ceramic coating and the walls.

Recall once again that the floor should be monolithic. Many masters believe that irregularities are easily leveled by tiled glue - the layer will turn out to be thicker. However, this is forgotten that the cement-polymer solution gives a shrinkage, so it will not work perfectly smooth. All recesses, cracks and bugs of more than 5 mm need to be eliminated - fill in with repair mixtures or to rush, and remove dust and trash. The surface is treated with primer means with the required properties - hardening, adhesion, etc.

Applying primer on a concrete base.

If you think put the tile in the shower, bathroom or bathroom, use special attention to waterproofing. To create a reliable hydropacker, it is possible to use polymer painting, coating penetrating agents, impregnations, membranes, or any other material available to you. The main thing is to correctly form a layer with a wall center for 10-15 cm in height and thorough sealing of corners.

Marking

When placing the basis, the axial lines of the room are served. Connect the middle of the closer walls to obtain the longitudinal axis, and the central points of the distances to calculate the transverse line. On the walls, make the level of the future of the Floor Floor. This will help fix minor shortcomings in the process of laying tiles. Marking drawing is better to apply an alcohol marker or by painting cord.

First, check the accuracy of the geometry of the room. This will correct the facing plan with ceramic floor tiles and significantly speed up the work.

To make sure in the mutual perpendicularity of the walls, pull the diagonally from the opposite corners of two cords, measure them with a roulette. If the angles do not correspond to the ideal 90 °, and the sides have different lengths, you can use various tricks for visual leveling effect. For example, shift the drawing or lay out around the perimeter of friezes, and between it and the wall - the background tile with trimming.

The principle of laying formation depends on the selected design.

Standard styling "seam in seam" or angular

If the room has a smooth rectangular shape, then the laying starts from the angle. The first element is mounted in the corner of the room, the rest - in different sides of it.

Corner laying scheme.

In displacement or displacement

For tiles produced in the form of extended slats, use a simple angular method is incorrect. Installation should be made from the center of the room. The method is rather time consuming, requires care and accuracy in work.

First, the reference point (central) is calculated, the first row laying is carried out, then the subsequent lines are formed as shown in the figure below.

Laying scheme with offset or from the center.

Scheme of laying from the center of tiles of different calibers.

The displacement coefficient of each subsequent series relative to the previous one depends on your desire - on 1/2, 1/3 or more. Because it is not a laminate or parquet board, it is not required for the binding of the seams. It is rather a decorative effect that allows you to create a deck flooring, brick or typical for laminate.

On two perpendicular rows

To put the tile in the room with an irregular geometry of the walls (including different protrusions, booming zones, etc.), this method is used. We celebrate the center of the room, install the first element from it. Regarding this cladding, we apply two perpendicular central lines, along which the floor covering is stacked. From the ready-made ranks of the remaining ceramics. It is very convenient for the formation of panels and various decorative or accent inserts.

Diagonally

In addition to the finished axial lines, you need to spend more diagonal from opposite angles. The statement is carried out or from the center, or from the long corner of the room. The pattern at the same time can be any.

Scheme of diagonal styling tiles.

After the necessary marking lines are applied, lay out ceramics on the dry surface of the floor. This is necessary for accurate fitting of the overall layout scheme, as well as trimming of the tiles of extreme tiles or shaped elements (including for the formation of curly cuts for various plumbing devices, water supply pipes and other communications).

Instrument-technological map for facing work, developed back in 1973 and updated in 2003 by the design and construction and technological institution of industrial construction, recommends to make masters for themselves on large landmarks: either from a moor cord stretched between extreme reference points (for example , along the long wall or diagonally) or set the so-called lighthouse tiles. These are single ceramic elements or a series of facing laid along the extended surface, which allow you to control the level of finishing and the correctness of the formation of the strips.

Preparation of glue mixture

The solution should be perfectly homogeneous and sufficiently fluid so that it can be easily applied to the surface and distribute. The dry mixture is indulging in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, thoroughly mixed with a mixer to form a homogeneous mass without lumps. Remember that the finished glue can be used for a certain time (20-60 minutes), so with large areas of laying the solution is better to prepare portion.

Elastic polymer mixtures for ceramics are single and two-component. They are thoroughly mixed well before use, and apply to the toothed spatula.

Installation of facing begins from the reference point located in the corner far from the entrance, or from the center of the room. The floor finish is recommended to produce strips or small squares, gradually moving towards the doorway. If the design assumes the presence of frieze and panels, then the laying should be started with decorative elements.

Laying from the corner and from the center of the room.

Some types of tiles with a strongly porous structure are recommended before applying soak. This is done so that ceramics does not "pull out" moisture from the solution to its polymerization. But most of the products on the market does not require such an operation, so before work carefully examine information on the package.

If we put an outdoor finishing material with a thickness of more than 12 mm or with a side of more than 50 cm, then carefully refer to the manufacturers recommendations. The adhesive solution should be applied not only for the base, but also on the outflow surface of the tile with pre-moisture.

It is impossible to lay ceramic cladding on the floor with the heated or when the room heating is running. It should be included only after the complete "setting" of the adhesive solution.

Apply the adhesive mixture on the base with a spatula with an average of 2-5 mm thick (polymer-layer 2-3 mm) and distribute over the surface in 1 m² or in an amount covering one row. Next, lay out the tiles in accordance with the selected scheme, align them, slightly catch up with the image or pressed with your fingers. Clean the seams from the excess glue and insert remote crossings or SVP. Next, apply glue to the surface as needed and install the lining, periodically checking the smoothness of the hydrorem, as well as the geometric installation of the laying - horizontal, drawing, laying scheme.

Application of the adhesive mixture to the floor and the installation of tiles.

If required according to plan - at the end, mount the wall plinth from curb elements or cutting the main background tiles using dividing crosses.

Shutkish seams

Filling the gaps can be carried out only after the coating is fully laid, and the glue composition hardened. As a rule, enough 24 hours.

Dry cement grouting will get water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, apply a spatula and fill out all the joints without exception. After 15-30 minutes, collect the remains of the colored mixture with a damp sponge. After an hour, rinse the surface with a wet cloth again, and the next day we treat the seams with water-repellent impregnations.

Cleaning coating

Flooded by ceramics Paul after the completion of the core works has a whitish flare, which needs to be removed with a solution of special detergents for acid-based ceramics (Pramol Ceracid, Pufas glutoClean acid, Italon A-CID), then rinse with clean water until completely removing all extraneous liquids and dirt. In the future, it is recommended to use neutral detergents or a weak soap solution, and to eliminate stains or severe contaminants, purchase professional concentrates that do not damage the surface and do not leave the divorce (Litokol Colored Stain Remover, Bellinzoni Mangia Macchia, etc.).

Do not use abrasive cleaning products that can lead to the appearance of scratches, especially on polished, laptic or glossy ceramic coverage.

You can load the finished coating of furniture and other items in 48-72 hours.

Tip! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the works that you need to perform and offers to you in the post office with prices from building brigades and firms. You can see the reviews about each of them and photos with examples of work. This is free and does not oblige anything.

When there is a need for tile coating in a new apartment or house, and also if you need to update the walls and floor in the kitchen, in the bathroom or in the corridor, the idea immediately comes to learn the tile with your own hands.

If you take on the laying of the tile, you can not only save money and thanks to the difference in price to purchase the best quality tile, but also get creative freedom, and get rid of hassle about marriage when laying, because sometimes the owner of the house and apartment has or go to the alteration , or humble with not aesthetic species of your sex and walls, masking flaws with shelves.

Not only a variety of tiles, but also a rich choice of tools and gluing solutions make this idea more attractive.

Even if there is no need for major repairs, tiles and brooms and ascertain on concrete coatings in front of the house or in the garage.

Methods of laying tile

All variety of patterns when laying tiles on the floor or walls fits in three main ways:

Traditional way: tiles are placed in parallel walls and semi, butt into the joint. In this case, the method is important not only surfaces, but also seams.

Even small deviations in the sizes of tiles will require adjustments and special selection when laying.

The dressing method involves the location of the tiles with a displacement of the middle of the series, or by a special pattern, while the tiles of various sizes can be used. With such a laying, minor deviations in the width standards and the length of the tiles are easy to disguise.

Diagonal masonry is the most complex and time-consuming method in which you need to show special skills to preserve clear perpendicular lines and geometrically verified adjunctions at the joints and corners.

More vividly laying tiles are depicted in the photo.

Stages of laying tile

The result of the work will be due to the way the tile is placed on which surface. Before proceeding with the process of laying, you need to take care of the preparation of the surface, which should be perfectly smooth and purified.

The traditional way to obtain a smooth surface under the tile is a concrete band screed and plaster walls. You can also use different modern materials, such as plasterboard and various mixtures for alignment of floors.

We will analyze the whole process in the form of a brief step-by-step instruction:

Step 1

SERMORD AND CALCULATION OF MATERIAL. This simple stage includes a measurement of the area, which will be covered with tiles and the calculation of the amount (in pieces) necessary for laying tiles.

Special attention is required niches and angles, for the design of which you need a pleasant design solution and special pruning tiles.

Step 2.

Creating layout layout. This stage is especially recommended for beginners.

Note!

When creating an accurate, while maintaining the scale of the pattern on paper, you can test your calculations and finally decide exactly how to put the tile on the color, size and styling method.

Step 3.

Surface checking. When checking the level and plot, the differences should be no more than 2 mm. Luggage, wrinkles and pits can be dissolved with grinding or putty.

It is also necessary to catch a surface to check the strength of the covering layer. At the final stage you need to clean the walls and floor of oily spots, dust and sand.

Step 4.

Landmarks. Depending on the selected pattern, at this stage, it is laid out without gluing the approximate rows of tiles (in the center or from the middle, vertically or horizontally) from which further masonry will go.

To preserve smooth horizontal and verticals, just above the alleged masonry surface, thread stretches about 5 mm. You can also prepare special racks with plumbers that will help to check the smooth masonry.

To preserve the standard width of the gaps when laying the tile, homemade simple devices called cross are used.

Note!

Step 5.

Printing beacons and masonry. Tiles beacons are glued in the center or at the beginning of the rows and serve as a benchmark to determine the height and adjustment of the row line. When laying the tile on the floor, you need to apply a gluing mixture to the surface, then put the tile and catch a rubber hammer over it.

When the walls are coated, the gluing solution is applied to the tile, it needs to be crushed with putty and press to the surface.

Usually, the floor tile is stacked from the center to the walls, and work starts from the wall opposite to the door. The tile is laying up with horizontal rows.

Step 6.

Filling (grout) of seams. It is necessary to apply a special solution in the area of \u200b\u200bthe seams, and after uniform distribution and filling of the recesses, remove the extra mass.

In order not to leave the stains on the tile, especially if a matte variety of tiles was used, you need to process the surface with a sealant before filling the seams.

Note!

The newcomer in this business will be needed not only understandable instructions, tools and materials of good quality.

When laying tiles will never prevent a friend's help, you also need to find an opportunity and practice on small areas.

Photo laying tiles do it yourself

No need to access the services of expensive masters for laying tiles. With proper approach and preparation, you can minimize cladding costs. Given the average rates for laying tiles, savings may be significant. It is necessary to strictly follow the rules if it is supposed to lay the tile with your own hands, in order for the result to be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, the laying of the tile implies the following steps:

surface preparation (screed formation, wall shrewing);
marking of the location of the first row and the installation of reference limiters;
laying of the first row or several multidirectional rows on the markup;
filling out the entire area of \u200b\u200bsolid tiles;
cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
shutdown seams (fuging).

Tools for tile work

The tool required for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and performance technologies. Directly for laying will require the following:

stretch, Kelma, toothed spatula, rubber spatula, level small (30-40 cm), middle level (60-80 cm), plumbing, rubber hammer, solution container. In places where the whole tile does not fall, it will be necessary to cut it and cut, for this you will need: plates (mechanical or electric), pliers or nippers, large-tip or sandpaper, Bulgarian.

Calculate the number of materials!

In order to properly evaluate the required amount of tiles, it is necessary not only to measure the square of the surface for the facing, but also to evaluate the number of tiles to be cut into parts. All this depends on the complexity of the walls and gender and the presence of all sorts of obstacles in the form of pipe output, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows over the estimated number of square meters to take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.

For sticking tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesive compositions. This is especially true for the facing of the bathroom and the kitchen, where moisture-resistant compositions are required. Moreover, with proper preparation of the surface, the solution consumption is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.

Read more about calculating materials for tile work.

Step 1. Preparation of the surface

In order for a tiled surface to be perfectly smooth and durable, it is necessary to qualitatively prepare the surface. In no case should not expect that small irregularities on the floor or wall can be closed by using more solutions under the tile. A qualitative result can be achieved only when all the material is placed on a uniformly small layer of adhesive composition.

Before laying tiles to the floor, you should form a screed. In the bathroom and toilet, a layer of waterproofing is formed. The screed can be produced and the wet method, adhering to the relevant technologies. It is best to lay a tile on a concrete base, that is, on a wet tie. If the old coating is replaced, then it is aligned with cement mortar.

In order to bind the wall tiles, it is necessary to get rid of the whole old coating and shook the walls with a mandatory reinforcement of the construction grid. Best do it. It is not worth using a putty, how to achieve an ideally smooth surface, it may worsen adhesion adhesive composition.

All plinths are dismantled, platbands on the doorway and threshing. Prepared surface must be cleaned about dust, dirt and progress.

In case you are confident in the reliability of the layer of old tile or simply want to save time - check out. But in any case, this practice is suitable only for sealing lazy people.

Step 2. Marking and installing support

options for non-standard laying coating on the floor

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare marking and stops for the first row for which the tile will be installed.

Walls

On the bottom itself, a plastic corner is fixed or a wooden rail, which will rely on the first row. With the help of a plumbing line to control the vertical styling. In the case of the use of multi-colored tiles or various types of mosaic styling, it is best to mark the places of laying places other than the mass of tiles.

Floor

The line of the outstanding edge of the first row tiles is written. Place the location of the tiles that will differ from the bulk in the formation of the pattern. The laying of sex tiles starts from a long corner. At the same time, if necessary, shifting the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment was laid without the need for its trimming. The calculations takes into account the size of not only tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying whole tiles

traditional Tile Work Schemes

Prepare markup and guidelines, you can start laying. For this, the tile adhesive solution is applied to the wall using a toothed spatula to the depth of the teeth. The tile leans first on the support or on the cross below, after which you need to gently put the tile with your own hands. Press it not necessarily. Lightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements, the maximum adhesion of the product with a solution is achieved.

Remember that you will already be problematic from the surface after laying on the solution, so you should immediately have it as correct as possible. You can only slightly move it to the sides. Check the facilities of the installation follows with the help of a level in all directions and with respect to the already laid rows. If you need to deepen the tile somewhat, the rubber hammer is used. In the corners there are crosses for compliance with the gaps. After that, you can proceed to further laying.

It is impossible to make a tile very much so that the solution performed at the edges. All gaps between them should be the most clean. In the future, the grout will be used, which will prevent the moisture and dirt from entering the tile and give an aesthetic look of the entire surface.

When the hand is already naked, you can apply a solution with the laying of several tiles at a time. At the same time, after the distribution of the solution, the tile is installed to its locations and small circular motions sitting on the solution. After that, crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and with the help of the level are attached in various directions the entire laid row, causing it under the overall level.

After completion of the filling of the first row, it is best to wait until the glue under it will quit normally. After that, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if after laying the next series it was decided to take a break in work, then it is necessarily removed all the solution is not under the tile, but along the edges. If this is not done, and it dries up, then before the continuation of the work will have to chop out the frozen solution, which will affect the strength of the connection of already laid tiles. Also removed all excess solutions in places that are left under the laying of the cut tile.

Step 4. Filling the remaining sections

Having postpone all the space where one-piece tiles are used, you can start cutting missing pieces and their installation. It is possible and glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric stovetur, in extreme cases, and the Bulgarian is suitable. In the last version there will be a lot of dust, so trimming is better to spend on the street. The tile markup is made according to the gaps from all sides.

In order to form an uneven slice, either manual tiles-pads, or an electric machine with a diamond circle. Read more about how to do it is written below.

Step 5. Grout (Fougaling)

After full laying of the tile on the wall or the floor, it is necessary to wait for the drying of the adhesive solution. After that, all the cross between the tiles are taken out, and the fug in the seams. To do this, it is possible to use cement-based grouts, silicone or epoxy. Selecting the appropriate grout primarily stands according to the color decoration of the selected coating itself. According to characteristics, they are not much different between themselves, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout applies in dry form and it is necessary to breed with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready for use in hermetic packages.

Before fogging, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After that, if a silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tile are additionally wrapped with painting scotch. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to consider from the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, is applied on top of the seam of a small amount of grout and deep into the depth. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and spending over it with pressure, surplus. At the same time, the seam is a little deepened and compared.

Clean the greasy tape and the remnants of the grout follows it complete drying. Cleaning and washing away the entire tiled surface, you can read the work completed.

Note: A similar way is to lay a ceramic tile. Differences partly relate to only nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.

A little about cutting tiles

Practically no work on facing tiles will no longer be without the need to trim. It is possible to produce this in various ways: ranging from glass cutting and ending with modern machines with a diamond cutting circle. If a mechanical hand tool is used, the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel is carried out on the markup on the glazed side of the tile. After that, it is performed in the layer. Outdoor tiles are more massive and it will not work beautifully cut with glass cutter. In all types of tile cutters, the split wheel has a significantly larger diameter of 1.6 cm for the formation of a deeper end.

For example, consider the variant of cutting with a mechanical machine plate:

Such stovetosis has a platform for placing a tile with limiters on which the line marking is applied. This facilitates the process of cutting a number of tiles of the same size. Configure limiters to the required distance, so that the scheduled cut line has accounted for a line in the middle of the tool.
At the top of the tool on two guides, a carriage is equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding focus, whose petals are located at an angle to each other, as well as the lever. We assign the carriage to the far from yourself. The wheel is attached to the edge of the tile and with pressure is carried out along its surface along the line of the cut.
After that, the focus on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the slight pressure of the tiles are made.

A complex point becomes not a direct segment and not diagonally, as figurous cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends to output wires, bypassing the sockets or the output of the water pipes. In this case, the shape of the cutter is planned on the glazed side, and the line is carried out with a neatly cutting wheel of manual stoveturis. After that, you can bite the unnecessary part of the tile in pieces until only the necessary part in the form remains. The resulting edge will be sufficiently uneven, a file or sandpaper is used to solve this problem.

When using an electric machine, the whole part that should be removed on the tile to markup is cut into thin stripes and blessed, the edge is also compared with the file.

Well, if the length of the row holds the tile without the need to trim the extreme. If it is not so, then the styling row should be shifted so that the last tile is the whole. If, while the remaining gap will require a fragment segment in 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted so that over two edges put wider pieces. This will eliminate the need for labor-intensive cutting of narrow clips of tile.
The same applies to the marking of the position of the ranks in height, especially when the styling is made not under the ceiling, but to a certain level, for example, the tile is often fitted in the kitchen. It is necessary to distribute the rows so that the first lower row is formed from pieces, and the top of one-piece tiles. Stacking to start better with whole tiles, while lifting the initial support bar to the required level.
Stopping the tile in the corridor is best, ranging from filling the space along the long walls, leaving in the middle or from one of the edges of the gap into one tile. Be sure to make marking lines in order to not be knocked out and do not make the remaining opening already than the tile.
If various laying options are used in the form of a figure building or using a tile of various colors, it is necessary to designate the location of the tiles excellent in advance, direction or design. It is often used to divide individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern using the distribution of the joints. In this case, the place with the installation of cutting tiles is better to leave for fill in the last place.
Be sure to familiarize yourself with the instruction of the tiled adhesive used. Some options imply moisturizing the surface of the tile, before it is installed on the layer of glue solution applied to the wall.

Video: Laying tiles on the floor

Video: Laying the tile on the wall

Laying tiles on the floor can be performed by any homemade master. It is only necessary to clearly comply with the recommendations of specialists and produce all actions in a strict sequence.

The tile (is the most often called tile products from ceramics) is a very popular material. It is characterized by excellent external data, durability during operation in various conditions, high strength and resistance to abrasion. It is also important that care for ceramic tiles is truly simple.

With competent installation, the tile has already been operating with all its special qualities from the first days of operation. Most often it is placed in the kitchens, in the hallway and bathrooms.

And here you need to know that the tile products for these premises should be chosen different. Each type of tile has its own special performance.

A variety of ceramic tile

For kitchens, for example, it is recommended to purchase and mount with your own hands the tile attributed by the level of abrasability to the third class. This is due to the fact that floor coverings in such premises are subjected to (and constantly) the effects of different negative factors.

Always scattered on the kitchen floors, falls, sheds. Therefore, they are simply obliged to resist such physicomechanical and chemical influences. Specialists, in addition, do not advise you to buy a tile with a porous or textured surface into the kitchen. It is very difficult for her to care.

For bathrooms and bathrooms fit the tiled products of a small class of abrasion. In these rooms for hygienic procedures, passability is not as high to spend money on the purchase of expensive ceramic tiles. Do not stop your choice on glossy products - they are truly slippery, and do not suit the bathroom. It is better to choose a tile with high levels of resistance to moisture and a variety of chemical compounds.

But on the floor in the hallway it makes sense to purchase the most durable tile (4th grade). Laying of such an expensive material fully justifies itself to long-term trouble-free operation in difficult conditions. It is in the hallways of apartments and residential buildings there is always a high passability of people.

To prepare an outdoor base for installation on it, tile products should be approached as responsibly. First you need to remove the old coating. This operation is carried out by a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a blade, or with a chisel and an ordinary hammer.

Performing your own hands dismantling of an old tile or other coating, do not forget to put on gloves. They will save your hands from injuries and serious wounds. Also there will also be glasses and a special mask, protecting the respiratory organs from dust. Instead, you can use the respirator.

Tile laying solution

High-quality laying of the tile with their own hands is impossible on the curve and oblique floor. The base must be absolutely even. Align it according to the following scheme:

I exclude the likelihood of drafts in the room where the tile laying will be made on the floor (just carefully close all windows and doors).
We sweep the floor base, remove all traces of oils, fatty connections, varnishes, paints, washing and vacuuming, then dry. Installation of the tile on the dirty and wet floor is not allowed.
Laser level (in the absence of such - ordinary), determine the curvature of the base (all available concubuses and bulges). The maximum possible high-altitude differences - 0.5-0.9 cm.
With the help of a mixture consisting of water, four parts and one part of the cement M400, close all potholes. If there is no desire to prepare this solution, just buy a special composition for alignment in the construction store. Divide it in accordance with the instructions and make the floor even.
Wait until the mixture dries (10-12 hours).

Laying ceramic tiles on a prepared base is performed after that after 48-72 hours.

Wooden floor coverings are not aligned with sandy cement compositions. They are prepared in another way. Putting the floor with oily special paint, perform the installation of the waterproofing layer, on which the fine crushed stone and the reinforcement thin mesh are placed. From above, such a "pie" is poured with a liquid solution of cement. Then there is a complete frosting of the base.

The amount required for the work is easy to calculate. This is done like this:

Measure the width and length of the room.
Alternate the figures received.
Share the amount calculated on the geometric indicator of one side of the tile you want to purchase. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the width (about 3-5 mm) of the interlocking seams.

Installation tiles in the bath

On this calculations are over. You know how many tiles you need to purchase. But this accurate digit is recommended to add another percent of 12-15 material. Laying the tiles does not always go smoothly. Piece of tiled products crackle, some of them you will have to trim. It is better to rebuild and take a tile with a small margin.

Put the tile with your own hands is easiest than one of two ways:

From the middle of the room to its edges.
To the door from a long-range corner.

The first technique is considered more complicated. It is usually used when laying tile products on the floor is carried out in spacious rooms. To put the tile, you need to divide the outdoor base on equal sections (four sectors). To do this, you need to hold in the middle of the same wall line (straight) down, after which it is perpendicular to the first one line. From the point of their intersection, markup is made.

Laying the tiles after that can start from the corner you like in the center of the room. Moreover, the trimmed tile is identical to the geometric parameters with such a technique will always be mounted around the perimeter of the room.

The second way is better to apply for premises with original geometry and for rooms in which the floor has a relatively small area. This technique is always used by beginner masters who first decide to put ceramics with their own hands.

Whatever way of mounting the tile you have not selected, first execute the sample. Just decompose the tile on the room, take the place of its location, leave the place for intercutric seams. It will save you from serious mistakes, and therefore from excessive consumption of material, and from tightening installation work.

Acquire glue. It is sold in the form of dry compounds that need to be breeded with water, as well as in the ready-to-use form. Dry mixes are cheaper, and it is completely easy to breed them (all the information is in the instructions for glue). It is recommended to prepare a small amount of composition so that it does not have time to stick if the installation process is not very good.

Laying tiles in the bathroom

It is also necessary to stock special. It is with it that you will install the tile. Spatulas may have U-shaped teeth, V-shaped or square. The tools of the last type are ideal for you to qualitatively put tiled products of medium sizes. And for a large tile, it is better to use a spatula with cloths in the form of Litera U.

Ceramic tile laying scheme as follows:

Apply primer to the floor base (it will increase the adhesion and protect the floor from the fungus). We are waiting for it drying, slightly moisturize the surface.
Proceed with a toothed tool section of an outdoor base, inflicting the adhesive composition on it. At this stage, the glue should be very thoroughly (the maximum smooth layer must be obtained) by floor.
The reverse side of the tile is also handled the adhesive mixture (a little solution is thrown on it, and then smear the spatula).
Moving the ceramic product, apply it to the floor and attach. Distribute the pressure of pressure over the entire surface of the tile as evenly as possible.
The accuracy of mounting tiles horizontally control the bypass thread or level. If the tile protrudes over the required level, remove a little adhesive composition from under the tile, if the product is overly deepened - throw it into it another portion of glue.
Each tiled square after laying wipe the rags to remove the glue mass from the surface.

Between the tiles around the perimeter of the room you need to leave small (3-5 mm) slots. They are mounted with suture plastic separators in the form of crosses. It is not done for beauty. Such crosses do not allow the Kafel to crack, bend and removed after the installation is completed.

After drying the glue, remove all the fine garbage from the seams and process them with grouting with moisture-proof characteristics. Apply such a composition desirable rubber spatula. Then you need to wait a few hours and thoroughly wipe the laid with a soft cloth.

After a day, perform wet floor cleaning. You were able to independently put the tile. Congratulations!

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor and walls is the most popular way to finish in rooms with an increased moisture degree. This type of finishing work is used both in residential buildings and in the respective places of administrative and commercial buildings.

The tile represents the final finishing layer and creates a smooth surface, a smooth, beautiful view. At the same time, it creates conditions for normal functioning, gives premises with such quality as moisture resistance. Gives them strength and durability.

Attractive face of facing

One of the advantages of the process is to conduct it independently. Laying tiles on the floor and walls with their own hands, the process is time consuming, but at the same time interesting, allowing you to work both physically and creatively.

It is necessary to use internal potential and show design abilities. Undoubtedly, this entertaining process. Calculate color, drawing, develop layout schemes.

Independence is good for the development of skills and manifestations of creative abilities. First of all, this is the economy of finance. The waste of money on the material does not avoid the owner. But for work, if you have to hire masters, solid amounts are laid out.

Are you all ready to do? Of course not. Therefore, it is also such a high interest in tiled processes, in particular to the order of their conduct.

Search for sources of information

Get information on how to put the tile correctly, easy. Today, anyone can use the Internet services and find all interested in the data. And not only on the device of a home tile, but also by other varieties of work, lies in a similar category.

It will be quite interesting to explore one of the stages of improvement and in connection with this to get acquainted with one of the videos called "put the paving slabs with your own hands."

It is best when information is supported by colorful illustrations. Visual accompaniment of the topic gives a chance to grasp the material faster. For those who decide to apply their own strength, carrying out repairs in the house or apartment such assistance will be as impossible by the way.

Technology of work, supported by various photos of laying tiles with their own hands, is one of the best training options. The main thing is carefully viewed and read.

Preparation to the main stages

Starting a business, you must first check the condition of the surface on which the tile will be laid. If these are floors, it is worth determining their evenness. The differences found at the time of inspection are eliminated by knocking out the influx and device of the screeds in the fields.

In the houses of the old type on the floors in the bathrooms, it is usually a small hard-driving tile. In such cases, the primer is used concrete contact. The composition is covered with the surface, and after drying, the tile glue is carried out.

When finishing the draft walls and floors, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with such processes as the installation of beacons, wall plaster and leveling screed. Step-by-step masonry tile means familiarizing with all associated processes.

At the same time, it will be nice to learn how to determine the consumption of the material: tiles, solutions and adhesive mixture per square meter. The accurate calculation also contributes to the economical flow rate.

Preparatory work before laying tiles are required. Do not neglect them, trying to reduce the complexity. Subsequently, ignoring the preparation will surely turn into repairs.

Use of detailed instruction

Even professional tilers sometimes require advice on arising problems. Especially this is required to the amateurs that came for the first time for such a job. To prevent errors, they need a detailed instruction how to put the tile.

The use of the instructions is difficult to challenge. The phased decomposition of the general process, ranging from the very first stage, which includes a list of necessary tools that need to be purchased and ending with the grout of the seams, it is best to contribute to the proper compliance with technology.

Once again it is necessary to recall that it is important to observe the entire order of cladding, including training. Since everything is interconnected and accurate following the instructions are the best option for obtaining a qualitative result.

Methods of device tiles on floors

It is easier to use the traditional method of laying a tile. However, it is often necessary to diversify the interior design of the room, so more complex options are selected and at the same time more interesting options.

Interested in which there are ways of laying tiles, it can be found that, to create a beautiful tile flooring, many are used by the use of a diagonal method or with a displacement. It looks very beautifully the modular location of the tiles with small inserts or a slightly similar to her device of the tile with a shift.

If desired, you can use in any way. But at first, it is necessary to make a layout scheme.