In the interior, every detail should be beautiful and harmonious, because an attractive ensemble is made up of little things. It is necessary to approach carefully not only the selection of furniture and finishing materials, but also the choice of decor and lighting fixtures. If you want to bring interesting and beautiful details to the interior, then you should take a closer look at spectacular Tiffany style lamps.

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The history of the origin of style

Amazing lamps "Tiffany" first saw the light at the turn of the XVIII-XX century. in. At that time, they became the brightest representatives of the elegant Art Nouveau style.

Tiffany Lewis came from an aristocratic family and was accustomed to luxurious furnishings. The atmosphere familiar from childhood has become fertile ground for the development of the artist's design talent. He designed many truly aristocratic interiors and luxurious lighting fixtures using exquisite stained glass. Chandeliers and table lamps created by Lewis quickly gained popularity and gained international recognition.

Tiffany's creations delight with their chic design today. The Art Nouveau style, in which he created his fabulous inventions, got his name.

Today, the name "Tiffany" is also called other lamps with stained glass details.. Each chandelier or lamp, made in a similar way, is unique in its own way.

The classic stained glass technique involves applying pieces of glass to the base. Tiffany devices are made by soldering pieces with a thin metal frame. Currently, the turquoise color can also be considered the hallmark of this interesting stylistic trend. The prerequisites for this were the traditional packaging of the company's jewelry, painted in this beautiful color.

Peculiarities

Modern consumers are faced with a huge selection of various fixtures and table lamps. You can choose the right model for the interior of any style.

From all the wealth of lighting fixtures, non-trivial Tiffany-style lamps with a memorable external design can be distinguished.

The main distinguishing feature of such items is their pattern, which is embodied in a variety of stylistic solutions, mosaic patterns or fascinating stained glass windows. As a rule, such beautiful lamps have bronze bases, which are distinguished by their great weight. Some models even have heavy bronze bodies, which are one of the most important elements of the lamp.

Currently, Tiffany table lamps are elite.

They are made using completely new technologies and have acquired new exquisite touches:

• Stained glass in modern versions not only have different beautiful effects, but also differ in light transmission. The traditional transparency of modern products is complemented by spots, matte films and stripes.
• Today, in the manufacture of Tiffany chandeliers, not only traditional stained glass technique is used, but also painting or fusing. Such an unusual technique is to combine elements of different colors using sintering. Thanks to this manufacturing method, a very interesting pattern is obtained that does not require a metal frame.
• Plafonds of simple shapes are often complemented by luxurious forged details, as well as gilding and patinated decorations.

Such lamps, thought out to the smallest detail, can enliven any interior and give it a special chic. Unusual models "Tiffany" successfully combine the aristocracy of bygone years and the unsurpassed quality of modern technology. High-quality fixtures with stained glass details are distinguished by a long service life. They will delight the owners with their chic design for many years, while maintaining their original appearance.

Many people note the originality of the style of Tiffany table lamps. Such a detail can radically change the situation and make it more lively and dynamic.

Models

A beautiful stained glass window from Tiffany is truly unique and unrepeatable. However, according to the sketches of the most spectacular models, similar products are still created. Most popular models:

• "Poppies". In such models there are fairly wide shades in the shape of a cone. The edges of this part are decorated with small bricks. The brightest and richest poppies are decorated with leaves made from miniature pieces of glass.
• "Daffodils". These options look no less juicy and attractive. The domes of such lamps are densely dotted with spring flowers. These stained glass lamps are voluminous and original thanks to competent color transitions. The main colors of such models are: green, yellow and snow-white.

• Salamander. A similar model of a stained glass chandelier will successfully merge into oriental interiors. It is distinguished by rich orange features of the animal on a spectacular and bright yellow-purple background. Also, these options are decorated with patterns that evoke associations with Arab culture, and small pieces of glass, similar to semi-precious stones.
• "Broom". This attractive model is also decorated with natural compositions. Initially, the sketch of the "Broom" was intended for a table lamp with a base imitating a tree trunk. A little later, a beautiful figure also began to be used in the manufacture of hanging chandeliers.
• "Wisteria". The original of this amazing model was sold at one of the auctions for 1.5 million dollars and received rave reviews from observers. "Wisteria" is a real work of stained glass art and is one of the most expensive chandeliers in the world. It is made in the image of a beautiful tropical plant. It contains a large number of tiny glass elements that form spectacular color overflows.

Use in the interior

Original Tiffany lamps can come in a variety of styles and designs. Modern consumers can choose for themselves the most complex or the simplest and most concise option.

The main thing is to inspect the room in which you want to put the lamp. Try to mentally build the stylistic and color design of the room that you would like.

Pay attention to all the elements of the decor and decide for yourself if you want to make the interior more colorful and artistic.

If your answer is yes, then the luxurious Tiffany lamp is perfect for you:

• For the living room, the most successful will be the paired sconces "Tiffany", created in the traditional stained glass technique. It is recommended to combine these lighting fixtures with hanging chandeliers designed in a similar vein.
• Forming a beautiful bedroom interior, it is better to stick to soothing ensembles. A classic-style ceiling chandelier will look harmonious in an ensemble with a high floor lamp and stained glass table lamps.
• Stained glass lamps "Tiffany" can bring magical notes to the interior of a child's room. Also, in such conditions, a night light made in stained glass technique will look harmonious.

We collect the lamp with our own hands

The method of creating exquisite stained-glass windows from pieces of multi-colored glass allows you to form objects of various shapes. You can make your own Tiffany style lamp. To do this, you need to stock up on patience, diligence and desire.

When making stained-glass windows using the Tiffany technique, there are many small multi-colored pieces of glass that have not been used for years. High-quality Spectrum Glass is very expensive, so even a small piece wants to be used. I offer options for making pyramid lamps at home from the remnants of Spectrum Glass with my own hands.

Making stained glass windows using the Tiffany technique is an addictive hobby. Each new piece is a real joyful event. And if you have purchased expensive tools, then they will serve for a long time, you will only have to buy additional materials and chemicals used in the manufacture of Tiffany stained glass windows.

Stained glass requires special cutting, certain fragments of glass are selected for the drawings, and as a result, many small multi-colored pieces remain that have not been used for years. High-quality Spectrum Glass is very expensive, so even a small piece wants to be used.

I offer options for making pyramid lamps at home from the remnants of Spectrum Glass with my own hands. It is believed that the pyramid harmonizes the space, and when illuminated, it shines and envelops the room in a fabulous twilight.

Lamp "Rhombuses"

To make Tiffany stained glass, I use tools and equipment:

• grinding machine "Crystal"

• soldering iron with temperature controller Weller Profikit, 100W
• glass cutter, machine for cutting small parts, tongs for breaking glass; zag-zag nippers, small scissors
• brass profile (broaching), foil (folio) and fixture for it
• flux, patina, POS-61 solder, finishing oil

We draw a triangle on whatman paper, taking into account that a lamp with a stand freely enters the pyramid. It turned out to be convenient for me, the length is 22 cm, the height is 26 cm. We cross out the same rhombuses, 6 triangles are obtained from the bottom. Since the figures are the same, only 2 templates need to be prepared.

We take a small piece of glass, apply a template and circle it with a felt-tip pen. Then we cut out the figure, if necessary, bring it to the desired size with the help of zag-zag pliers and lay it out on the sketch, choosing the most pleasant combinations.

From the lower left corner, we begin to grind the parts on a grinder so that the joints are perfectly even. For convenience, along the outer lines of the sketch, rhombuses and triangles are fixed with carnations. After assembling several parts, the figures are wrapped in self-adhesive foil, while the corners are necessarily straightened and carefully ironed.

For easier assembly, I solder the assembled figures in several stages.

After the entire sketch is filled and tacked, I cut out the “legs” of the lamp, somewhere 2 cm long, 1.2 cm high with a slope according to the model, wrap it with foil and solder it on the sides below. After that, I smear the seams with a flux with a brush and begin to solder the stained-glass window itself, retreating from the sides by 0.5 cm. The more convex the seams are, the more beautiful the finished lamp will look.

I turn over, solder the seams on the reverse side without tubercles, beauty is not visible there. I cut brass profiles according to lateral dimensions, taking into account the legs, apply, clamp with tongs, coat with flux, solder the seams on both sides and apply a thin layer of solder to the profiles.

Thus, we collect 4 walls of the pyramid, changing colors based on the remaining suitable glass. By the way, you can assemble the last, fourth wall from triangles by dividing the rhombuses in half in the sketch.

We collect the lamp. You can fix the sides, or you can involve friends or family members in the creativity to hold the parts while you grab the ribs with tin. On the sides, you can apply a large amount of solder and make waves on it or whatever you can do. It doesn't matter, any drawing looks beautiful.

Then, using a powder and a sponge, we wash the glass and seams with washing powder. Apply the patina with a sponge (do not forget to wear gloves!) and rinse again generously with running water. It remains to apply a finishing oil with a new sponge, which will give your lamp shine and a festive look. I repeat the procedure with oil in a few days, and I wipe the glasses to a shine in a week so that everything is absorbed.

I install the light source on a square made of chipboard. The source can be attached to the stiffeners of the lamp, but when replacing an energy-saving light bulb, it is difficult to get close to the base, so I just put the light source under the pyramid.

Lamp made of triangles

The easiest and most economical pyramid to manufacture, but this is in no way inferior to other models. I immediately draw a triangle on plywood, collect all the small pieces in a flat box and choose those that match in color, texture, and transparency. I apply the first one, cut out the triangle to the maximum size, select the second one, and assemble it not according to the sketch, but according to the “opportunity”.

Perform the entire process and sequence of work as described in the Rhombus lamp.

And even after these lamps, you will have very small pieces left. Don't throw away. After all, there is still a mosaic. I am sure that creativity is a way of life, a state of mind. I wish you wonderful new products!

Each Odyssey system kit includes a template on which numbers, letters and arrows indicate the direction of the glass, leaves, bud or border, etc., which helps and facilitates the assembly step. Each form of the Odyssey system is assigned a number. At the beginning of the number, the letter "T" indicates that the design of this form is an exact copy of Tiffany. The letter "N" indicates a more modern design. What the "S" stands for we don't know, but the shape S121 - "Blossoming Chestnut" is a bestseller from the Tiffany era!

The kit includes cardboard - durable and not afraid of water. It can be colored to help identify what the individual parts of the pattern are.
Forms "Odyssey" are completed without a cable, tops, caps and old rings.

The Odyssey system is always made with high quality, the legs (bases) are cast from solid brass, patinated with copper, they also have a natural green, brown coating. The templates for these bases were taken from original Tiffany designs. The integrity of the originals made it possible to transfer everything to the smallest detail onto a copy.

download CATALOG - shape for lampshade d: 11.5cm - 38.1cm

downloadCATALOG - shape for lampshade d: 40.6cm

downloadCATALOG - shape for lampshade d: 45.7cm

downloadCATALOG - shape for lampshade d: 50.8cm

downloadCATALOG - mold for lampshade d: 55.8cm

downloadCATALOG - shape for lampshade d: 61cm - 71cm

downloadPRICE Forms OdysseusPrice on request!

downloadPRICE - Cardboard - Template Price on request!

Forms "Worden Systems"

L a lightweight and durable form for creating a Tiffany lamp from a unique material that is used as a packaging and even electrical insulating material, Styrofoam.

It is non-toxic material, lightweight and durable.

Per styrofoam ol was made in France in 1928. Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of fine-mesh granules sintered together. The main advantage when working is the use of pins to secure your sketch directly on the form.

Styrofoam molds are ideal for designing and assembling Tiffany lamps.

download INSTRUCTIONS

download CATALOG-PRICE form B-7 from 24.01.2016

download CATALOG-PRICE form B-24 from 24.01.2016

download CATALOG-PRICE form С-16 from 24.01.2016

download CATALOG-PRICE form С-20 dated October 17, 2015

download CATALOG-PRICE form С-234 from 24.01.2016

download CATALOG-PRICE form G-7 from 24.01.2016

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download CATALOG-PRICE form G-19.5 from 24.01.2016

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download CATALOG-PRICE form L-18 from 24.01.2016

download CATALOG-PRICE form P-20 dated 01.24.2016

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Greetings to all needlewomen and craftsmen) Do you want to know how to make an original ceiling for a lamp, without any cutting, fitting and polishing of glass? Then come in) I suggest you create a stylish Tiffany-style lampshade made of colored glass. Below I post a detailed photo master class, from which you will understand that everything is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Good luck)

A small digression from creating a lampshade for those who would like to buy and install air conditioning in Kiev. I invite you to visit the Comfort online store, here you can purchase air conditioners, humidifiers and air purifiers, split systems, chillers, mobile air conditioners, air curtains, water coolers and much more from the best manufacturers, including: Daikin, Mitsubishi HI , Toshiba, Panasonic, Samsung, LG, Mitsushito, Hitachi, Cooper&Hunter.

For work, you will need ready-made glass pieces - cabochons. A cabochon is a method of processing a glass or stone product when the bottom side is flat and the outer side is convex, smooth. They are usually round in shape. Such glasses are sold in the departments of goods for decoration. There are different colors, interspersed, pearlescent, transparent and colorless. Diameter from 10 to 25mm.

We will fasten them using tin-lead soldering according to the technology first proposed by Lewis Tiffany in 1885. The essence of the Tiffany technique is as follows: the glass pieces are edged with copper foil, tinned and soldered together at the ends. In Copper foil - foil is sold in rolls of 30 meters and comes in different widths: from 3 to 15 mm. A foil 5-6mm wide is suitable for us. The inner side of the foil is covered with a layer of adhesive and protected by thin paper.

After separating the protective film, with the adhesive side to the glass, you need to carefully wrap the cabochon along the end, overlapping the ends of the foil by 3-5 mm.

Press the foil tightly with your fingers and smooth out any wrinkles with a wooden stick.


Then the foil must be irradiated, i.e. create a tin edging firmly holding the cabochon inside.
As a flux, it is better to use modern soldering gels. They are less toxic to humans and are easily washed off with water. The solder should be with a high tin content, as it is more durable. The fact is that, unlike a conventional stained-glass window, we will solder the glass not around the entire perimeter, but only at individual points of contact of the parts, which requires increased mechanical strength.

To save electricity, I purchased a special economical 18-watt light bulb. It shines like a 75 watt incandescent lamp and almost does not heat up. Next, about how to make a template shape for the size of the lampshade ...
To connect glasses with each other, giving the finished product the necessary shape, you see, without some kind of base-support is not an easy task. The old lamp shade of my lamp had a rounded shape, in my opinion the only acceptable one for this lamp design. The upper part of an ordinary balloon has approximately the same shape. I used it to make the template.

Having inflated the ball, to a diameter slightly larger than the lower base of the lampshade, I placed it in a plastic bucket for fixing.
By papier-mâché, he received a durable cardboard cast. In this case, I did not use crumbled paper pulp, but pasted over the surface with pieces of old newspapers, layer by layer.

The last layer was made of white paper to give an aesthetic look 🙂 After drying, it remains to pull everything out of the bucket and lower the ball.

The form is ready. You can start soldering ... I did not apply any markings, I picked up cabochons along the way.

It is advisable to do at least half of the work at a time, and preferably all 🙂 Then you will have the opportunity to remove the product from the base without the threat of breaking and wash off the flux residues. flux left on the solder for a long time begins to corrode the surface.
It is also important to qualitatively solder all the joints on the inner surface of the ceiling. Without this operation, you will not achieve the required mechanical strength of the product.

Also solder copper wire from the inside to give additional rigidity and fastening to the fittings of the lamp. Over time, under the influence of the environment, the shiny tin will fade. To give the initial shine, you can wash the lampshade with a metal cleaner. You can immediately cover all soldering with a tinting solution - patina. Patina is sold as a ready-made solution. If there is no possibility or desire to buy a patina, then you can rub all the tinned parts with a saturated solution of copper sulfate, rinse, dry and polish with felt to a copper sheen. Which is also very beautiful.

My lamp was left unfinished. I planned to insert colored balls into the middle of the “flowers”, but we don’t have the right size for sale yet ..

Tools and materials for soldering

COPPER TAPE Used for framing various segments, stained glass, profiling the edge of the U-shaped. It happens in different widths, with one self-adhesive side. Copper tape can be glued either manually or with a special device. The electric grinding wheel allows you to better process the glass and make the edge smoother.

SOLDERING IRONS 5 colored stained glass sheets in different shades, each about 25 x 25 cm scissors solder (rod) with 50% tin content Thus, go from one piece of glass to another, cutting out templates from cardboard, and following them from glass, and laying them out on paper. From turquoise glass, cut out the central rhombus and small triangles. Break off pieces of glass with your hands or use tongs. Always keep the desktop clean, remove the fragments with a brush. The stained glass will begin to play with different shades. Cut out the pink and yellow glass pieces. Cut out the details from the green glass. To ensure that the stained-glass window does not differ in size from the original project, the size of each detail must be carefully checked. When the glass is fixed, you can proceed to the final soldering. Solder the copper edging with soldering liquid, starting from the central diamond, break off a 1 cm long piece from the tin rod. Wait until the tin begins to melt, and stretch it, following the line of the copper tape. Break off another piece of tin, heat it and stretch it, continuing to cover the copper. In order for the first and second lines of welding to connect, run the tip over the bumps, heat up and wait for the surface of the tin to straighten itself. Sequentially process the central part of the stained glass window. Connect all the finished blocks. Before each soldering, do not forget to apply soldering fluid. After soldering the central part, go to the side windows. Every time one line meets another, pause to bring them together. The solder seam should be slightly convex so that the copper tape does not show through from under it, and so that it does not go beyond the edges of the stained-glass window, leave a few millimeters from the edge. Wipe the stained glass window with a cloth dampened with soapy water. OVAL STAINED GLASS WITH CURVED LINES GLASS CUTTING Start working with glass for the background, cut out templates from cardboard, remembering to remove the double line. These glasses are cut from the smooth side. Make cuts on the glass. When working with curved lines, use only tongs. Remember that you can only get closer to the desired shape of the part by making many cuts in the same direction. For leaves and stems of flowers, use different types of green glass to get a chiaroscuro pattern. The flowers are carved in white opal glass, while some other segments are in pink. Cut out the template from cardboard, make cuts on the glass and scratch it to get as close as possible to the desired shape. The pestles are made of yellow opal glass. EDging WITH COPPER TAPE Before you begin edging, wipe the glass. Place the glass in the middle of the copper tape, making sure that the tape fits snugly against the concave surface. Press firmly with your fingers. Correct the solder lines with a cutter where the stepped irregularities are. Arrange the parts according to the drawing and prepare for soldering. SOLDERING Once you've applied soldering fluid to the copper, secure the various pieces of glass so that they can't move. Apply soldering fluid with a brush, break off a piece of tin rod 1 cm long, heat it and stretch it over a copper tape. Start in the center of the stained glass window. To solder the outer edge, take a piece of glass, place it on the stained glass window and circle the outer contour with a felt-tip pen. Make a scratch with a glass cutter following the drawing. Turn the stained glass window over and solder the glass on the reverse side. Apply soldering fluid and solder. When finished soldering on the back side, turn the stained glass over. Check that the soldering has been done well, correct any irregularities with a soldering iron and wipe the stained glass window with a cloth dipped in soapy water. Irregularities along the edge of the stained-glass window can be trimmed with a file for soft metals. Position the stained-glass window so that it protrudes slightly from the edge of the table, and, pressing lightly, sand it. BOX 1. Enlarge the drawing on the copier and transfer it to life size on paper and cardboard. 2. For glass of other shades, make color selections on the sketch. FROM TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: mirror measuring 15 x 15 cm for the bottom of the box solid yellow glass sheets 15 x 15 cm for the sides blown clear glass 20 x 20 cm for lid and sides yellow blank glasses of four shades measuring 15 x 15 cm for butterfly wings gray glass for body glass cutter tongs, scissors solder with 50% tin content copper tape soldering liquid soldering iron