Transformation of the old table. Phased restoration of the old table. How is the restoration of the table in the workshop

People like that houses are surrounded by beautiful things. Over time, the interior of the premises loses the gloss and comes out of fashion. Sometimes it's easy to get rid of the beloved subject, because he witnessed many pleasant events of the past, and the acquisition of new furniture not everyone afford. But you can solve the problem, restoring the old thing. In this case, she does not have to throw out, it will look in the room fresh and creative, and cash on the update will go much less than on the purchase of modern furniture.

Recently, people prefer to restore the old things with their own hands. This process is creative, interesting and completely simple. Especially love the hostess experiment with such interior items as coffee tables, because they can then be shifted to guests. There are many ways to restore these things. How to update the coffee table at home to turn it into a small masterpiece?

Restoration of furniture

People in different ways embellish the old interior items, they are updated by varnishing, painting, processing equipment decoupage, tight leather, tissue, oilcloth, tile cladding.

Thanks to some technicians (cracker, bracking), the tables are artificially aumed, and things whose age does not exceed 10-15 years, look like products of half a century or century ago, giving premises of the spirit of antiquity. Many restoration lovers love to combine several techniques together, for example, combine the decoupage technique with a cracker. By applying these methods for the restoration of the coffee table, the owners will receive an interesting thing that will fit in a new way into the room design.

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Table Update in Decoupage Technique

Since we are talking about the restoration of the coffee table, the most original and beautiful solution will not be covered with its cloth and not a simple varnish coating, but an update in the fashion technique decoupage. Its essence lies in the fact that appliques or whole pictures from special napkins, wallpaper, geographical maps and musical sheets are placed on the surface of the table top, and then cover the products with varnishes. To fulfill this work, you need to take care of the materials and tools you need in advance. In addition to the aforementioned paper and napkins, it will be:

• screwdriver;
• sandpaper 2 types (finely and coarse);
• primer;
• white acrylic paint;
• watercolor;
• acrylic contour;
• pVA glue;
• cabinch furniture varnish;
• ordinary or curly scissors;
• flat brush (flots);
• watercolor brush.

The coffee table before the update will be better to disassemble, separating the tabletop from the frame and driving the legs. It must be done in order to remove the old varnish or paint even with the most hard-to-reach places. Then it should be well treated with all parts of the table first coarse-grained, and then fine-grained sandpaper, the front side of the tabletop is especially thoroughly polished. After that, the piece of furniture is twisted with bolts. The next stage of the work is the primer of the coffee table with the help of flushing and painting it with white acrylic paint. It is advisable to apply at least 2 layers acrylic on all the surfaces of the thing, while drying each layer for 5 hours. Otherwise, paint under varnish can go spots or crack.

Preparation of the surface to decoupage: 1. Selection of drawing; 2. Alignment of the surface; 3. Applying soil.

Then the aerosol varnish easily falls on the surface of the table top. After drying it, it is embarked on the creative process itself - cutting decorating elements from napkins. Do it better with special scissors. To cut the drawing from wallpaper or trim the edges of the geographic map, conventional scissors will fit.

When applications are ready, they should be moistened with water. Wet napkin elements in accordance with the intention are decompressed on the surface of the tabletop, lubricated PVA glue, and smoothed with a flat tassel. But a tight map or wallpaper drawing is better to soak for a few minutes in the water. The surface of the table in places under the application in this case is lubricated with a mixture of PVA and water adhesive (1: 1 ratio). When glue dries, you can draw some parts of the watercolor appliques. To make the images look at volume, use acrylic contour. Finally, the entire surface of the table is covered alternately with two layers of acrylic varnish.

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Tabletop in machinery cracker

You can, along with a decoupage, be a special crochelle varnish, which forms a crack on the tabletop and, thus, will make it "ancient". For work you will need:

Decor process in the technique of cracker: 1. Applying cracks; 2. Application of crochelle varnish; 3. Application of primary color.

• acrylic paint of two colors (brown and white);
• lacquer furniture;
• tassels.

All stages: Grinding and primer surface, the preparation of applications, their gluing and the final coating of the lacquer will be performed, as in the above method. But in the middle of the workflow, changes will occur. It takes a few layers of dark paint on the primer tabletop and give it to dry. The surface will need to be covered with a crockel varnish. You should not wait for his final drying, the lacquer must remain sticky and only slightly hardening. Then the table top is painted with white acrylic and dries. An hour later, the product will begin to be covered by cracks, through them will peel the dark paint. When acrylic is finally driving, it will be necessary to stick appliques to the surface of the table and at the end to cover it with furniture varnish.

And get the first skills necessary for this, renovate the old table to start. If there is no such good on your attic - not a misfortune, you will find a lot of ads for the sale of tables at the lowest prices from people who dream of getting rid of them.

Of course, it is better to choose a table that has a small, but still artistic value. With such furniture to work much more interesting and more pleasant. In any case, the end result will delight everyone. If you doubt, make a photo "to" and "after", - and you will see how with your hands the table received a new life.

Tear patience and get ready for what you make a couple of mistakes. Do not hurry to upset about this. Consider that this is your training project.

You got the table and we we can proceed to restoration.

You will need such materials and tools:
- The perpetrator of the celebration is the old table;
- paint;
- water-based varnish;
- solvent for degreasing surface;
- putty;
- sandpaper large and fine grain;
- self-tapping screws and furniture bolts (as needed);
- rubber spatula for putty;
- brushes for applying varnish and paint;
- roller for applying paint on the worktop (you can use a brush);
- clamps;
- Grinding machine (you can do without it).

1. Inspection, defect defects and repair
Start with the fact that inspect the table and appreciate its general condition. Find defects, the old furniture is always there. On our table, for example, cracked and scratches were discovered. In addition, in some places lacquer, others crap. All this will have to fix.

With legs lucky more. They do not stick and do not hang out, and therefore we do not have to disassemble the whole table. If you are lucky less, so even better - by correcting the situation, you will get useful repair experience.

Inspect the foot mount. If it is a screw connection, you just need to tighten the screws and watch the table. Starts again - replace the screws.

If the leg is attached to the table with the help of glue and it breaks out, it means the glue deal. To correct the situation, disassemble the table, thoroughly clean the surface of the connection from the remains of the old glue and according to the instructions, apply a new layer. Fasten the leg with the clamps and leave until complete drying per day. If the design allows you to attach it additionally with self-draws, and even better with furniture bolts.

2. Grinding
Repair is over, and you can proceed to grinding. To do this, use the grinding machine. If such is not, take sandpaper large and small grain grain and grind manually. However, depending on the tree breed and the degree of damage, such manual work can take a lot of time and effort. But there are here and their positive parties. For example, without having the necessary skill, you will not be able to spoil the product in the process of work, and manual grinding will allow you to feel the material and get the concepts of some properties.

We used grinding. At first, walk on the surface of the table by a nozzle with coarse papers. Grind carefully, without push and special efforts. To begin, feel the material. Now go to lesser grain paper to make the surface as smooth as possible. Remove varnish and paint residues.

Grinding curly parts are carried out solely manually to damage the relief. Only in cases where the design does not allow it to use power tools with suitable nozzles.

After grinding, be sure to remove all dust from the surface of the table and workplace. Use the vacuum cleaner.

3. Puckuckle
All deep defects, whether scratches or dents that failed to eliminate during grinding, should be sharpened with a special putty on the tree.

Take advantage of this rubber spatula and apply putty on damaged places. Wait for complete drying and thoroughly stick the surface.

4. Coating
We will proceed to surface treatment with paint and varnish materials.

You can combine the coating on different parts of the table. We, for example, decided to paint only the bottom of it, and the worktop to handle the verse and open with varnish.

Start from the table top. Cover her by the verse of your chosen tone and leave to complete drying to correctly evaluate the resulting shade. If the tone does not suit you, apply another layer and wait for drying.

Now you can start painting the bottom. Turn over and install the table in such a way that you can work comfortably and in the course of work I did not have to shift it off the place.

Surely, you have already decided on the color gamut of your future table, and we have picked up white matte paint of warm tone.

Color one element and only then go to the next so that the coating falls uniformly. Give the first layer to dry completely and pass the surface with shallow sandpaper to achieve the appearance of micro scratches. Apply the second layer of paint, wait for drying and get enough.

Let such procedures be at least three, and even better than 4-5. Grinding helps each new paint layer penetrate the previous, without forming thick layers. Thus, at the output, we get a very durable coating, which will last another decade and protect the table from mechanical damage and other kind of external influences.

To secure the result, apply water-based varnish. It will quickly dry, relatively safe and does not have an unpleasant smell characteristic of other types of varnish. Apply a brush with a tassel, every time gaining it a bit, so as not to be formed.

Also patch the worktop. To achieve a more resistant coating, do the same as in the case of paint. Apply, thus, at least a couple of layers.

In fact, the work is over. Pretty dry the table in a ventilated place or ventilated room to get rid of the specific smell and admire the creation of your own hands.

The old table, breaking and quicken, and even, besides, a creaky, like a non-shy cart, and itch your hands send to the fire or landfill. But if you work a little over it, you can get a very good furniture accessory, such as a coffee table (if you shorten the legs up to a certain length), or a TV table. In my Saraj lay on the shelf, forgotten by everyone, the usual kitchen table. In disassembled state. Four legs on bolts, wooden base bonded by metal brackets, and three fragments of table tops.

Having inspected this rarity, I first decided to send it to the trash machine; From long lying, fragments of countertops, made of chipboard, were swollen under the influence of moisture, and after drying, it is already not returned to the original form. Yes, moreover, they became fragile and the opil, from which they, in fact, were fraught with ...

The wooden basis, on the contrary, was shuffled to the fact that he went to the chance, as a lively, it was worth it to take her! Thinking a little, I decided, after all, try to "reanimate" him. Anyway, I will not lose a lot, in case of failure.

Need

• Hacksaw.
• Gas key or pliers.
• Adhesive universal (you can "moment").
• Adhesive composite (cold welding).
• Cyan Cyan Acrylate (super glue).
• Marker.
• Drill and twisted for 4 and 9.
• Long line (or level with line markup).
• Four thick furniture screws under the hexagon.
• A small sheet of chipboard for a new table top.
• Decorative self-adhesive film for tabletop cladding (with a picture of your choice).

Restore the old table

First you need to disassemble the wooden basis. Unscrew all existing screws, remove metal brackets.

The table we will have twice as smaller than the former, and therefore the crossbars that were used to be a width of the table - now they will become long.

The width of the new table can be selected independently, to your taste. You can do it at least square! To do this, take the remaining long crossbars, and shorten them to the width of the future table you need.

Just calculate the width of the future table to be at least half of his long, otherwise it will be unstable! Now, on the unpacked ends of the crossbar, we will make a hacksaw groove for metal brackets, as before.

Next, we get holes left from the screws after disassembling the table. Most of these holes will again be in the former places, and that they keep screws that hold metal brackets well, we use matches and universal glue. Makazy match in glue (or dripping glue into the hole), pushing it until it stops into the hole, and climb.

It turned out a peculiar CHEKL card. Now in this hole, the screw will be well held, and the table will not be fused. Well, so that the "new" table does not creak - drip on a drop of machine oil to the places of contact of all individual fragments of the table, both wooden and metal. Now we will deal with legs. If the threaded compound is twisted in these legs, it is desirable to unscrew it from the leg. To coole the thread with composite or universal glue, and screw it back.

Before the stop. If the connection is dangling, but it does not get out (it happens when the thread pin has inside the legs "T" -ny end), then you will have to use Cyan acrylate (super glue). We drip it into the gap between the connection and wood until it stops to go inside. We leave the knocked legs to dry. For a couple of hours, so that I manage to grab composite glue. (By the way, the legs can also be shortened, to the height you need, overshadow the plane, to narrow them down the book, if they are square, and cover the mournicle.) During this time, you can collect a wooden foundation; We fasten the cooked crossbars using brackets and screws.

After the time allocated to frozen the composite glue, we screw the legs to the base. As before to the old table.

Now we take a prepared sheet of chipboard (I took the end wall from the old cabinet for this purpose), cut the required area of \u200b\u200bthe worktop and the sandpaper, or a wooden file, dumping edges.

We put the table top on a flat surface, facial (the most smooth!) Side down. We put on top on the table top the base, legs up and mark the marker of the corners of the legs.

We remove the basis and drill holes by 4 millimeters in every corner, with such a calculation so that the holes fall into the centers of the legs. Now we put the foundation on the legs, put onto the worktop on it, and look at the bottom to come together marker made earlier. Now on the holes available in the tabletop, drill holes further - inside the legs, on the length of the screw.

Well, by a drill on eight millimeters, we will make a small deepening-sweep over holes, for screws of screws and screw the screws.

Mind screw screw with composite glue, so that the countertop should have a smooth surface. You can pre-lubricate the surface of the deepening, and the screw screw in it, machine oil, then it will be possible to easily dig these reversed plugs to dismantle the table, if necessary.

We are waiting for the composite glue and, in conclusion, we glue the countertop with a sticky decorative film.

Plug by self-adhesive wallpaper should be as accurate as possible; The second chance will not be to cross. To do this, I had to dismantle the table (good, it is not long - unscrew the four screws and unscrew the four nuts!). I moistened in the room the air with a sprayer, so that the dusting does not lie down on the surface placed, and have not formed irregularities and bubbles after the work done. The surface of the surface with alcohol, and carefully, starting with one of the corners, smoothing the film in different directions from the angle of a dry cloth, for each item in turn, pasted the film. If bubbles could not be avoided, pinched them with a thin needle in several places, put an ordinary kitchen napkin on the bubble and put a mug with a flat bottom filled with boiling water on this place. For one or two minutes. After this procedure, the bubble will disappear. And one moment; Ploying the countertop, I changed my mind to hide the screws of the screws - I really liked it, how the shiny metal caps are looking, recessed in the texture of "stone".

But this is the case of each individual. If anyone does not like it - you can hide the hats. It is also smeared with glue and stick on top of the patch cut from the same film ... This table was (in size!):

And so became small and compact:

He will fit well in the interior of some small room in the country house. I think it turned out well. Even very good!

Hello, decided to write about how we (I and my wife) restored the old table. I write the first time, so do not judge strictly. And initially, we did not think to post, so some pictures lack. But still I hope that you will be interested.

So what was and what happened:

1. That's just the first pictures unfortunately not. But to imagine what was, I will describe. The table was painted paint to nausea familiar from school years, he was the colors of the Soviet sex. And painted in 3-4 layers of paint. The table top was wooden, massive, too, in this paint. When a dyskch's implanted bottom, then found 8 mummies of red cockroaches. :) Nails, dirt and stuff also attended. The countertop was removed and began to skip paint. Actually, after parted part of the paint, began to fix the process.

2. Pilot the paint with a drill with an iron nozzle. This process is dusty, boring, and generally extremely unpleasant. To get the fact that below in the photo, I left for 3 weeks, so in the light in the evenings and on weekends at the rains.

4. After the putty dried, the table is once again thoroughly. We repeat the procedure depending on irregularities and cracks. On the photo, as you can see, putty different color. Just we have a white one, paint will close everything))

5. Now a slight digression. Countertop. We made her quickly and immediately. From her, I sorted paint in a matter of seconds with a grinder with a skirt (well, such a disc). Then the electrolake removed the top layer of the tree, it turned out uneven, but the result was set up :) The countertop was painted at the tabletop, pasted the napkins along the edges, and covered with two layers of ordinary parquet varnish (before applying the second layer).

6. We try ... :)

7. Further Kras. At first, it happened, painted with ordinary acrylic paint (on the table top is also the same only with the collabo) for ~ 150r., Then, extinguished again (in general, the more often it is better;)). Then the paint has ended and I bought an expensive white acrylic enamel on a water basis, ~ 350r. worth it. When we painted her, they realized that she was not for lack :)

8. The following step applying a pattern. As with the worktop, everything is done simple. Beautiful napkins are taken, separate the upper layer with a pattern, glue carefully with PVA.

9. Now we do the bottom. We decided to make from MDF panels (stayed after repair). At first I instilled just on the screw from the bottom, but the edge was visible and portilate the whole look. Therefore, inside I screwed the drowboy and the panels already put on top. In the hole, where apparently there was a box, screwed furniture magnets. Decided that there will be a lid on magnets :)

10. Cover. From plywood (scurrine, primed and painted), a piece from old curtain (improving), and glazes for magnets.

11. That's the end result! Thanks to everyone who read to the end.

Photo
The restoration of the coffee table on its own is quite painstaking, but not very difficult matter. If you familiarize yourself with technology, take into account the advice of specialists, will acquire high-quality materials, you can give your favorite thing to the second life.

The painting of the table is a very complex and long process, but only a sketch, marker or paint, as well as varnish is required.

The alteration of furniture consists of several stages: removal of old varnish, wooden surface restoration, painting or toning, varnish coatings (wax).

How to get rid of the old coating?

It will take:

• cycle or grinding;
• sandpaper;
• wood putty;
• putty knife.

The restoration of the coffee table begins with the removal of old varnish. The easiest way to apply a grinding machine, but in this case, maximum caution should be observed, since the tool can damage the wooden surface. You can use special solvents. It is important to calculate the thickness of the layer: the tool should only dissolve the varnish without reaching the tree. If the solvent is absorbed into the surface of the coffee table, then this will complicate all the subsequent stages, the materials can "do not make friends" among themselves, as a result of which bloated, detachment or cracking of the paint and varnish.

The main materials and tools for decorating the coffee table are: acrylic paint, brushes, glue and pictures.

If the old lacquer has a lot of cracks and erased, it is easy to remove with the help of ordinary sandpaper. Take a medium paper, moisturize it, wrap around the bar, go through the surface. When emery paper breaks dust, rinse it in water and take again for work. Under the influence of moisture, the old varnish softened and easy to fit. After you remove the varnish, pass the surface of the coffee table with small grain with small grain. You can consider the old coating with a cycle or a piece of broken glass. In this case, do not do without workers gloves. The varnish gradually spawns from the surface, while it is necessary to follow, so as not to damage the tree. All these methods have their advantages and disadvantages. Which one to choose, solve only you.

After the old varnish is removed, all cracks, chips and scratches are needed to sharpen. The putty is applied using a spatula, they roll up in such a way that it does not perform above the surface, leave until complete graze, then grind fine emery paper. If you plan to tint the table with a veil, then it is better to purchase a putty to the color of wood.

Toning and painting of the coffee table

It will take:

Decorating the table mosaic allows you to hide the emerging cracks and stains.

• primer;
• acrylic paint or veil;
• furniture wax;
• brushes;
• sandpaper.

Restoration of the coffee table involves painting or toning the product with the help of the veil (wax). First, it is necessary to progress the surface: use a special primer for wood, apply the composition with a 1-2 layer with a mandatory intermediate drying. If you use the veil, then the priming stage can be omitted.

The paint is applied with a brush, for the table top it is more convenient to use a roller or painting blade. Inaccessible places are crossed with a thin tassel. It is important to apply a paint with a subtle uniform layer - then you can avoid the influx. After the first layer is dry, it is passed by fine sandpaper. The second time the paint is applied in the opposite direction. All colorful layers are definitely polished by sandpaper - then the surface will be perfectly smooth, and the bands from the brush will be invisible.

Restoration of the table can occur with the help of a simulator or colored wax. The simulator occurs on aquatic and alcohol basis, the first gives a softer tone. The veil is applied with a wide flat brush (flots). You can mix the colors among themselves, apply one tone to another, to evil the center, darken the edges - it all depends only on your imagination. Instead of the verse, you can use colored wax, which, when restoration, the surface performs several roles immediately. With it, it is toned and secured the result at the same time. When using bitumen wax, the color depth can be achieved on top of the veil.

The wax is rubbed with a soft cotton cloth with a very thin layer, and it is impossible to return to the processed place, otherwise dark places may turn out. Some manufacturers are recommended with a large amount of work to extract the wax in the water bath, in this case it is applied with a brush. After the first layer is dry, polished with a woolen cloth, then apply the next one. This is done until the surface becomes perfectly smooth. If you painted the acrylic paint table, then it is better to use transparent furniture wax to secure the result.

Decorating the coffee table by gilding method

It will take:

• golden or silver potal;
• shellac;
• stencil;
• flat brush.

It is possible to decorate the coffee table with help, for example, make gold butterflies or silver dragonflies. For this purpose, you must purchase a finished stencil or make it with your own hands. Draw the dragonflie contour on the tight film, then cut it out with a blade or a thin knife. Attach the stencil to the surface of the table by painting tape. Apply Shellac, leave it for a while. Varnish must dry out a bit, but at the same time stay sticky - then Potoli will well stick.

Attach the sheet Potted to the stencil, carefully segregate it with a tassel, leave until a complete burden, then remove the brush the remains of gold, remove the stencil. You can muffle the bright gloss with the help of an antique bitumen, which is applied by a thin layer of a foam sponge. The result is fixed by shellac.

In no case cannot be covered with acrylic varnish, otherwise it will oxidize over time.

Materials for gilding - cheap pleasure, if desired, they can be replaced by transfer foil for nails and special body glue. Application technology is almost the same: first they attach the stencil, they wash the surface with glue, leave for about 5 minutes (the exact time is always indicated on the attached instruction). Then applied foil with a side of the book, stroke the nail, cut down sharply. The result is fixed with aerosol varnish - then the foil will not doubt. Repair of the coffee table with your own hands is completed!