Small bath bar. Bath from a bar with their own hands: how to build a good bath without a single nail. Obtaining permission in administrative bodies

We offer to build the most simple and cheap, but quite comfortable small bath, the size of which make it possible to place it anywhere in the site, and the available technology and low price allows everyone if you wish to have such a bathhouse. The size of the structure is only 3 × 3 meters, height is 2 meters, the bath has a combined steam room and a washing plate and a lounge. All construction work should be made based on the requirements.

For a small baths, choose cheap, but in quality quite satisfactory materials. What do you need to prepare?

Table of building materials

Materials	number	Illustration
Cement M400.	150 kg
Sawn ram 150 × 150 mm	3.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	25 m / p.
	0.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	500 pcs.
	10 m2.
	30 pcs.

Nails and self-tapping screws of various sizes, metal corners for the rafter system, construction fittings, windows and doors. Windows and doors can be made independently (cheap, but for a long time, and quite difficult) or buy already ready (quickly and in the end will cost cheaper). The insulation will be required, electrical cables and fittings.

All materials we specifically gave with a margin. First, with each construction without unproductive waste, it is not necessary. Secondly, sawn timber and hardware will always be useful in the farm. There is an opportunity and desire - can make water, plums. There is no desire or possibilities - the bath and so will "function", only water will have to be in the boiler installed in the furnace (for hot) and in the barrel (for cold) buckets. We choose the easiest option - we will not engage in engineering plumbing systems.

Stages of construction baths

For simplicity of understanding of technology, we break the entire process of building a cut into several stages:

• foundation;
• logboard;
• roof;
• floors;
• window and doorways;
• electric wiring;
• outer and interior walls.

Foundation

We choose the column concrete.

Step, Nos.	Description
	We do markup on the ground. In terms of the sizes of a bath 3 × 3 meters, the distance between the columns is 1.5 meters. The septum between the rooms is not carrying, the foundation is not necessary under it. Around the perimeter to drive the pegs and pull the rope between them. By ropes, mark the position of intermediate columns.
Step 2.	Drop the pits with a depth of 50 ÷ 60 cm, a width of approximately 40 cm, at the bottom, make a sandy pillow with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 cm.
Step 3.	If the ground is clay - the formwork does not need to do, pour concrete right into the pits. Give concrete time to set up for about two weeks.
Step 4.	You will place the location of the furnace, on our project it will be located between the combined steam room with a wax and recreation room - this location will allow you to warm up two rooms at once. Under the furnace you need to make the foundation of the dealer, it is desirable to the depth of freezing of the soil. But if the furnace is not very complex and massive, then sufficiently depth 1 m, the sand pillow make a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 cm. If you are still afraid that in the winter the foundation can "undergo" - put the foam plates with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 cm in the perimeter. They will perceive the swelling efforts, the foundation will remain fixed under any climatic conditions. How to put the stove is a big and interesting topic, for its consideration you need a separate article.
Step 4.	We recommend not to pour them, but to mule from concrete blocks with dimensions of 20 × 30 × 60 mm. First, focus a little concrete at the base, use a hydroelectric and cement-sandy solution for this. Next, put the extreme column, with the help of cement-sandy solution, align in height and place intermediate columns. At the same time, "Tighten" the foundation for the furnace, it should be higher than the columns on the height of the bars, the beams of the floor and the genital board.

Foundation columnal (with the first crown)

Cutting and logberry

There are many different options for connecting BRUSEV (see photo), we will use the simplest: in the corners in the paw, and end connections in Polterev without a residue.

Step 1. Once again, check the distance between the columns, if there are problems - they hang a little.

Step 2.. It is very desirable to process the first crown (and better and two) antiseptic means. We put them on two or three layers of rubberoid. Place the position of window and doorways on the first crown. We put the first row, in the corners, be sure to be bonded, it is advisable to put and intermediate braided.

In the photo - waterproof columns and laid first crown

Prices for rubberoid

ruberoid

Step 3. Put the beams of the lower overlap, the distance between them is 1.2 ÷ 1.5 meters, the connection in the Poltera without a residue. Take a very carefully to this stage, correct the mistakes will be very difficult, and often impossible. You will have to disassemble and do everything from the beginning. Corners can not be styled, for a small bathing it is optional, just the ends of the bar in these places place in a chess order.

Step 4. For interventional insulation, modern belt insulation or traditional passage can be used. With ribbon, of course, work easier and faster. Each crown must be checked in spatial position.

Step 5. Through a series, we set wooden or metal brazening, the distance between them is about a meter. In the corners of the window and doorways, they must be made at the removal of no more than 20 cm from the edge.

Agel - Photo

It is very important - a hole under the heel drill strictly vertically, the bell must enter it with a gap. Otherwise, during a natural shrinkage and sweeping, the ranks of the bath can be saved. The brace must hold 1 ÷ 2 row of a log.

Step 6.. Install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to put them, not reaching two rows until the end of the church. The approximate height of the bath is two meters, but if you get a little more or a little less - there is nothing terrible, it is not critical. The ceiling beams are flooded in a pollese without a residue, for our small bath it is enough to install two ceiling bars.

Step 7. Put two top rows of timber.

IMPORTANT - they need to be fixed with the brackets very firmly, should be copied to the holes with the effort. This is done so that the rafter system does not "moved" the crowns - the last row will perform the function of Mauerlat.

Step 8.. Severe the temporary ceiling, use for this any boards, grab them only in several places, after performing work on the roof they are removed.

Video - Bath from Brous

Video - Brous Connections

The main task in the construction of any building from the bar is as quickly as possible to bring it under the roof, all subsequent works can be performed in slower. In this way, go and we.

Roof

There are two options: double or single pick-up. For a bath size of 3 × 3, you can use the easiest option - a single-way inclined.

If you stopped at this option, then the ceiling must be done immediately. For the bath it needs to be insulated, you can choose mineral wool (much more and more complicated) or foam (it will cost cheaper and faster). Let's focus on a simple version - foam insulation. It is not afraid of moisture, there is no need to apply various vapor and hydroboirers for him.

Prices for foam insulation

pSB polyfoam insulation

Installing insulation is needed in several stages:

• scroll down the cutting boards to the ceiling beams, the thickness is enough 20 mm;
• place foam plates on them. Place them as close as possible, do not allow gaps. Polyfoam perfectly cuts out a special carpentry knife for a ruler. During the markup period, provide for the size of 1 ÷ 1.5 cm more - the foam during the stacking will be squeaked, the insulation will become hermetic;
• save on top on the beams any boards, it can be different segments, a hill, etc. The main requirement for them is to withstand the weight of people during the roof arrangement. After the completion of roofing works on the roof no one will no longer walk.

If the roof is double, then make a temporary ceiling, and the insulation can be made later. Is everything prepared? Excellent, we build a roof.

№№	Illustration	Description and explanations
Step 1.		Check the vertical position and size of the upper crown. The dimensions are normal - excellent, there are significant deviations horizontally - not a problem, align the horizontal rafters.
Step 2.		Determine the angle of inclination. We recommend an inclination angle of about 20 °. Another important point - in which direction rainwater will die, consider the features of the site, the location of the entrance doors and the features of already standing buildings.
Step 3.		Make the stop for the rafter at the calculated height. To make it easy - install vertical supports from the bars of the specified height, put a horizontal bar on them. The distance between the supports is approximately 1.5 meters. The design can be collected without stamps, it is enough to use metal corners and screws. In order for the emphasis to withstand the angular efforts to secure it with the help of corner boards to overlapping beams.
Step 4.		Measure the length of the rafter with departure. For our case, 3.2 meters is enough. For a rafted, use 50 × 100 mm boards, a 3 × 3 meter bath is enough 6 pieces.
Step 5.		Set the extreme rafters, pull the rope between them and put all the others. For fixing to beams, there are more reliably to make scubons, you have no desire or skill - use metal corners.
Step 6.		As a roof cover, we chose Ondulin - one of the cheapest and quite quality materials. Use various advertised hydroborals is not worth it. First, if you correctly place the roofing material - there will be no leakage. Secondly, if they are, then no barriers will help: they will be saved under the severity and will be bored with time.
Step 7.		Obsek. Ontulin is in many ways similar to the ordinary asbestos slate, the difference is less physical characteristics for the perception of vertical effort. This means that the crate should be placed more often, each sheet of ondulina must rely on four rails. The distance between the rails is 35 ÷ 40 cm. It is possible to use narrow unedged boards instead of the rails, according to the cost, they almost do not differ, but during the navigation of the ondulin, it is less likely that the nail "goes nowhere".
Step 8.		Carefully align the first row, do not hurry to immediately arrive sheets, it is advisable to lay out the whole range and check its position, and only then take the hammer and nails. Ontulin can be attached to ordinary slate nails, fixation is performed in the upper wave. The lower the angle of the slope, the greater there should be overlap of sheets. In our case, sheets should be overlapped at about ten centimeters. Be careful not to overdo the scoring effort, do not damage the wave. There is a desire - set the drainage system.
Step 9.		Drink spaces of space between the rafters and the wall of the bath from the elevation of the skate, install the wind boards.

All, urgent works are made, the log house can be left for the winter. During this time, the bath will give shrinkage, relative humidity stabilizes to natural values. If there is a desire to quickly wash in your own bath - continue construction work.

For a small bath lags, it is not necessary to establish. The distance between the floor overlap beams within one meter, take the boards to the thirty, they will not be fed.

Important note - do not press with a lot of effort the floorboards, during wetting they can take.

It is extremely desirable to make a small floor clone towards the rain racks for water drain. You can install the grille in this place, and you can leave and so - the water will still find the slot and leave. There are no special taps of water. First, the columnar foundations will allow water to absorb without any problems. Secondly, a small bath means a small water consumption. For the tilt of the floor, it should be put on the beams of overlapping wooden lining, the tilt of the floor do small, arrange 2 ÷ 3 °.

Video - How to make the floor with insulation in the bath

Wiring

The main requirement is strictly performing PUE positions (rules for installing electrical equipment). Let's give several practical advice.

Video - Wiring Bath

Video - Lighting in the bath

It is difficult to make the windows and the doors to make the windows, you need not only to have experience, but also special equipment and machines. It is more convenient to buy ready-made products, including metal-plastic. To install them, you need to perform several consecutive operations.

Step 1. It is necessary to align existing openings in size, no one embedded each bar during the masonry of the cut. Mark the linear dimensions and gasoline or electric saw on the wall or a electric saw protrusion protruding outside the dimensions of the ends of Bruusyev.

Step 2. 50 × 150 mm boards make boxes for windows and doors. It is not necessary to collect them in the spike, it is enough to drive ordinary nails along the ends. It is very important - leave the distance of 3 ÷ 4 centimeters between the top bar and the box on the shrink shrink. No longer needed, the bath has a small height.

Step 3.. Insert the prepared boxes in the openings and nails or self-stakes to fix them. The slot at the top of the box will be warm, you can use a pass or mounting foam.

Video - Features of the preparation of openings in the house from the bar before installation of windows / doors

Video - Planning, Okosyanka window openings in a wooden house

Windows and doors are inserted by an ordinary method. Now you can proceed to the trim in the inner and external walls.

Let's start with the internal. For wage and washing, it is necessary to apply only natural lining, you can use any other materials from plywood or osp to plastic lining. Test technology Consider on the example of lining, with all other materials it is easier to work.

This is an important operation, requires great care. For the frame, use 20 × 50 mm rails, pre-mark up. The wall should be smooth, all large bulges must be eliminated.

Step 1. Speak at the corners of extreme rail levels, pull the rope between them and install the remaining rails, the distance between them is 40 ÷ 50 cm.

Step 2.. Check the distance between the floor and the boat corners. If there is a difference - eliminate it with the first and last rows of lining. Leave small slots (1 ÷ 2 cm) between the clapboard, floor and ceiling. The gaps will be closed by plinths. Ceiling plinths (baguettes) are nailed to the clap, and not to the ceiling, otherwise, during oscillations of the wall dimensions, the trim deformation is possible.

Step 3.. For fixing the lining, use nails with a length of 1.5 ÷ 2 cm, you need to drive them into the lining groove.

Fastening lining kleimer

For external sheat, you can use any materials, the stages of the work of the usual. If the bath is small and cheap - choose inexpensive materials. Modern building technologies allow them to do beautiful and with good quality. Windows and doors are trimmed with platbands.

Finishing direction	Illustration	Basic information
Vertical		The vertical mount of the panels has a big drawback - at the length of the board, it is unevenly warmed up, which is negatively reflected on the service life. Vertical covering is optimally suitable for paired, operated mainly under conditions of high temperature and low air humidity, i.e. In the sauna mode. To ensure more efficient air circulation in the space between the insulation and the clapboard, several holes are usually drilled in the trim.
		In the case of horizontal location, the temperature deformations of the material manufacturing material will be much less noticeable. Horizontally oriented finish allows you to visually expand a small pair. With horizontal mounting of the panels behind them, more efficient air circulation will be provided - in such a situation, the covering will be attached to a vertically-oriented frame, as a result of which the gap will also be vertical. In addition, with such an orientation of the rodent frame, it will be much more difficult to get into the space behind the trim. Horizontal lining is attached noticeably faster and easier than vertical. Important! If you decide to orient the finishing panels horizontally, control the groove "watched" down.

Video - Bath from Brous do it yourself

How to make a bath with your own crashes, because it is built, it's a serious and time-consuming. So as not to get to be asked to arm yourself well, the knowledge and advice of the experienced builders.

Wooden Bag

First you need to decide on the choice of material from which the structure will be erected. You can build a bath with your own hand from the bar. This material today has won the recognition of numerous fans and flatly respond to him.

Why build a bath from timber is preferable? For a beginner of a carpentry case, the option of building a bath by this material is most appropriate.

In addition to low prices, it has a number of undoubted advantages in relation to brothers, both completely and dialed:

• Build from this material is much easier. In the presence of an assistant, there is no need to attract hoe specialists, since the cutting technology of baths from a bar is simple and does not require carpentry skills.
• During the construction of bar baths, there is an opportunity to buy material as the buildings are erected - it does not suffer from this. This is a big plus, as during sorting and further preparations, a certain amount of material can be discarded.
• Build a bath from a bar to get much more economical, in contrast to the construction of a log bath or the build of finished log cabins. Docylted log cabins are not recommended to acquire, since they are not durable and after a few seasons use a number of hidden defects are detected.
• The timber is also easy to ensure that it allows to design complex buildings. Sizes can be the most varied. When using various ways of mating parts, it is possible to build not only small buildings, but to execute both grand projects.
• On the shrinkage, wooden baths from the bar give a significant order to their counterparts from Breus. It constitutes only 5-10 cm. So that you will not be surprised because the bathhouse has become below half meter.

How to choose a crash forest

During the construction of a bath from a bar, with their own hands, it is assumed that it will serve for a long time, and will not be a crafty for several years. Therefore, choosing raw materials for the material is needed with all seriousness. If possible, raw materials should be harvested in winter and take no less than a year.

This is explained by the following arguments:

• Wood resistance directly depends on the concentration of resin and natural antiseptics. In the "winter" raw materials of such substances and elements an order of magnitude higher than in the "summer".
• Easily-friendly organic substances in the raw materials collected in summer or autumn, more, so it is more vulnerable to various microorganisms that cause rotting.
• In Tsarist Russia and before the beginning of the Second World War, the forest was gone only in winter, he was left to be detected at least one year and only then sent him to recycling.

It should be noted that the preferred selection of pine raw materials for the construction of a wooden bath from a bar is due to the fact that it has less heat transfer compared to larch. As for the latter, in the former times of the ancestors used it instead of the foundation or laid out of her crown in unheated buildings.

Sorting and calibration of material

In order to build a bath from the bar built by their own hands, several decades also used her children and grandchildren should be checked to sort the material. It is necessary to carefully discard unsuitable timber. Of course, there is nothing eternal in the Middle Kingdom, but following simple rules, you can increase the life of the structure at as much as possible.

Next material is not used:

• Wood with deep cracks is excluded because it is the first candidate for posting in the near future. Such wood is better to use for other purposes.
• There are clear traces of rotting on the surface of the bar, even if small. Recognized visually. The presence of a tree on the tree is a clear sign of the start of rotting. It should not withdraw the blue, such a method only briefly removes this external sign.
• If the wood is attacked by insects, there are traces of vital activity of various bugs: worms or holes leading inside the tree - this means that the tree is infected, and the lime of pests can hardly work.

Who faced working with a tree, knows that the perfect material in this area is quite difficult to find. In most cases, either the production technology is broken or storage conditions - all this imposes its mark. If when the material sorting the material comes across a sparkling instance, it should not be used in the construction - the cracks in the steam room are not needed.

End locks and livelists

Connection of design elements is the main thing in wooden buildings.

Variants of the mating of parts, called in the people of wrinkles and locks, there are more than two hundred. Nodes are the following types: end, angular T or L-shaped, cross-shaped.

• The end is called the connection at which the part is expanded in length. The mating in this case is done with smooth lining or gear, using spikes. For additional hardness is treated with glue, bolts, wedges or spikes.
• T-shaped nodes are obtained when one end of the bar is connected to the middle part of the other.
• Crusades call parts connections under oblique or straight corners. Typically use knats with a straight line in drapery and landing into one socket;
• Corners are called such compounds in which the binding is carried out by the ends of two parts. The ends of the bars are processed through and non-through spikes. Also can use the lining in the trip.

Complex nodes for mating bath parts use no need. For it, simple options are suitable, easily performed by chainsaw. To speed up and simplify the cooking process for their markup, use patterns.

Practical part - Takes and ways of performance

After the foundation is established, it must be prepared for waterproofing. To do this, apply waterproofing mastic on the surface, for example, bitumen. I lay the strips of rubberoid or any other analogue. This operation is recommended to repeat.

Now the most important thing begins - we build a bath from a bar. We go to the installation of the crown - the first two of its series will consist of a bar of the size of 200x200. Subsequently uses a ram 150x150. In the details should be made in advance. The lower row of the crown is pre-treated with machinery or other antiseptic.

You need to handle only the side of the bar, which will lie on the foundation. Fix the lower row to the foundation is not necessary: \u200b\u200bunder the weight of the constructed design, the crown will be reliably fixed. In addition, if it is necessary to replace it in the future, this task will be easier.

The first row of the crown is stacked by the insulation. Special strips for these purposes are sold in construction stores - ribbon jute. You can also use the materials used by our ancestors: Pack and Moss. Put the insulation with nasupus, so that it hung a little, more than 10 cm. Noise should not be done - in the future this surplus will be used for cacopa.

After laying the second row of the crown, it is necessary to fix it with metal pins or wooden brazers. For this, the planting holes under the diameter of the fastener are drilled. You can drill both in advance and place.

Subsequent rows are stacked and fixed in the same way. Fasten the two top bars with pins or brazys do not need, it is done only after the building shrinkage.

Windows and doors - do the moves

Operations for windows and doors are performed in two ways:

• First method It provides for the installation of door and window boxes during the cutting of the cut. This method is more time-consuming. Laying Bruus is conducted taking into account the size of the boxes. For the installation of door boxes on the bars are made on the spikes.
• Second option It provides for the execution of openings after the construction of a church. This method is more rational, since drinking is produced after the log house will give a shrinkage. To fulfill this option, it is necessary to provide feedback in the bar facilitating the cutting of door and window pasumes.

The choice of method is individual, however, when using the first option, negative consequences are possible. When shrinking the baths door and window boxes can squeeze.

With the second version, the movements are made after a shrink shrink for the next year and the distortions in this case are no longer scary.

Crop the gaps, only erected construction, is not required because the log house must first give shrinkage: stand out for six months

After the log house is ready, it is prepared to "wintering". To do this, thick boards are placed on it and rubberoid, slate or other similar material are placed on them.

Wooden bathing

After the log house made a shrinkage, the construction of a bath continues. The next stage is to hide the gaps.

For this process, you need a hammer and caulking (wooden or metal). Work is made with dry material if the paklet is wet, then work should be postponed for its complete drying. If a panel or moss performs in the role of the insulation, they are twisted into the harness and with the help of the tool, it is stuffed into the slots between the bars. In the case of using a ribbon jute, no need to pure. His ends are attached to the woods stapler.

The construction of the bath bar is almost completed, it remains only to raise the roof, install the necessary equipment, perform the finish and you can wash.

Bath from a bar with her own hands: construction, how to build, build a log house of a wooden bath, how to make

Bath from a bar with her own hands: construction, how to build, build a log house of a wooden bath, how to make

Bath of bar 100x100 or 150x150 do it yourself

Most people in construction preference preferences are precisely natural materials, namely a tree. The bar at all times enjoyed in great demand among connoisseurs bath, it is safe for health, practical when collecting and elegant. This article will help to understand the features of the construction of the building from the profiled bar with their own hands, and also tell about some embodiments of this design.

How to choose a bar

Before buying a tree for the construction, you need to know certain features that you should turn your attention before purchasing material.

• You need to thoroughly examine the tree. It should not have cracks, the bar can quickly spoil.
• It is unnecessary to acquire a material with dark spots. Spots often testify about the process of rotting.
• It is possible to refuse from logs with traces of a koroeda, the presence of wormworts.
• Low material cost may indicate its low quality.

Quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in a short time. When building, it is necessary to do everything in stages, do not rush so that the result justifies all expectations.

How to prepare the timber independent

The tree is a natural and expensive material, the price in Russia on a ram of 150/150/6000 ranges from 7,000 to 9000 rubles. You can harvest the log house yourself, mostly in winter.

After heothed, the tree should be sealing for some time, one month is enough. After that, it is necessary to thoroughly inspect the trunks and select high-quality, without black spots (rot), traces of a core.

After proceeding with the cleaning of Bruusyev. First of all, you must remove the bark, but not all. From both sides, leave approximately 15 cm of the cortex, it is necessary to prevent cracklers. The billets must be folded on the elevation, so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance from each other at least 5 cm.

Before choosing a material, your attention should be paid on both deciduous trees and conifers. Lady tree logs are better stacked on the lower rows during the construction of the bath, and above the coniferous - they have better thermal insulation.

How to make a project of a future bath

Bath construction technology should begin with the preparation of the project. The project will allow you to calculate the characteristic nuances of this premises to the smallest details.

Example of a banner project

The exact plan allows you to save finances, thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the number of all materials that may be needed for construction.

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

• The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time, per person should have at least 4m 2;
• The location of the construction plays an important role if there is a lake or river nearby, it is better to design a bath near the reservoir;
• What materials, in addition to the timing, you will use for construction. They should be harmless (natural) for the body: stones for steam room, moss, hemp hemp for caulking logs.

Construction of foundation

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build the foundation on your own without resorting to the help of professional builders.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the material of the foundation base, when choosing which is taken into account:

• Groundwater level on the site;
• The type of soil;
• If possible, it is necessary to calculate the load as accurately as possible, which will affect the foundation. This includes the weight of the most built, equipment inside the structure, the total weight of people who can be in the steam room at the same time;
• Important is to determine the depth of the soil freezing in the winter season.

When building a bath, several species of foundations are often used:

Ribbon base

This type of foundation is a classic option, it is used to build a bath and other structures.

Ribbon foundation happens:

The first is a ribbon of monolith, it is located all over the base of the perimeter of the future bath with jumpers in the middle of the supporting wall supporting walls. The process itself of this foundation is a digging of trenches and laying the flat. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay metal reinforcement.

The collection belt foundation can be erected in such cases if there is an access road near the future bath. Mobile blocks of concrete weigh quite a lot, for this use lifting cranes.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas, for the purpose of saving - as it does not require the use of a large number of materials.

To build a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig up at least 6 identical pits around the perimeter of the future facilities. After the concrete solution is poured mainly with the impurities of the stone, thereby elapsed poles. The distance between the supports should be at least 1.5 meters.

A columnar foundation evenly distributes the weight of the structure and can hold the building with several floors. Foundation pillars prevent water from falling during flooding.

Pile Fundam

Piles are often used locally with a slope slope.

If there is no time and the ability to correct the slope on the site, screw piles come to help. It is possible to install them without difficulty, several men just for 3 days.

Screw the pile, externally similar to the rod, it is hollow and it is made of durable metal. The top layer of the rod is covered with a special anti-corrosion agent, so that when screwing (when scratches are formed), there were no corrosion.

Bookmark first crowns

After the construction and complete drying of the foundation, you can proceed to the bookmark of the first crowns, it is easy, the main thing is to use the construction level.

First of all, it is necessary to check the first log on evenness, for this it is necessary to use the level (not on the eye, how many do it). The perfectly smooth bar at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire design.

The first crown, should be more thicker than all the next, it will hold all the next. Experienced builders argue that the first crown should be with sections of 20/20 cm, and all the others will be laid above, with sections 15/15 cm, not less.

The first crowns are not necessary for the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden rei, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent the occurrence of dampness and rotting and increase the service life of its use.

Before folding the tree, you should know that it is impossible to do it tightly, over time it will take place and will swell a little. It is unnecessary to fix the lower bar - the pressure of all higher rows provides him with good fixation. If the bottom log cabin will need to be replaced, then the disassembly of the entire design is not required, but only the bottom row is needed to withdraw.

Walling

If the bars for the walls were not previously processed, it should be done, for this tree is covered with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing a log, you should prefer to give logs without bitch, since it may be necessary to need additional processing of the material.

Before collecting the walls, everyone should know - this can be done in two ways:

The laying of bars with the residue implies the approach ends of the logs for the horizontal surface. No residue logs closely without protruding ends. We will consider step by step.

The bath without remnants of protruding logs requires less costs than with the residue, the log is needed to the second more half-meter long, rather than in the laying of the first method.

In construction practice there are several ways to connect a cut from the residue:

First option It assumes the cutout of a round bowl of the upper log, after it is stacked the next transverse log.

Second option It looks like the first, only the bowl is cut on the bottom of the log.

Third way It has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, the grooves of the rectangular shape are made on both sides by about a quarter of length.

It is necessary to put the insulation to the first row, it is often used moss or a pass. After laying the second row, make the fixation, it can be produced in two ways using metal pins, wooden brazing.

Setting all the crowns, you should know - the last few are not fixed, as they will give styling over time. The ceiling beams are stacked on top.

Konopka slot

Building the bath suggests a pantry of the gaps. Experts argue that it is not necessary, as wooden structures, the more baths, swell, smoothing the gaps. If you do not block the walls, then if you don't use a steam for a long time, then the logs in it dry, thereby decrease, so it is still necessary to careen.

The material for the helms canopate must have such qualities:

• Well absorb moisture;
• Save heat and pass air;
• It should not form mold, insects;
• The material should be perfectly transferred to temperature fluctuations;
• It should be environmentally friendly.

Very often for the cacopa of gaps in facilities from the bar, materials such as linen panel, swamp moss, panel, sphagnum or hemp hemp are used. All these materials are well absorbed moisture and protect the building from heat loss.

The roof for the wage can be a single and duplex. For a bath from a bar of 6x6, a duplex roof is often used, it is great for the weather conditions of our country (can be placed under it - attic, attic).

For a small steam bar of 6x3, you can use a single roof, before installing it, you need to think about warming in advance. Warming can be performed in two ways, namely using mineral wool or foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult in the installation plan. The foam is much cheaper, its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

The installation of doors and window frames can be carried out in parallel with the construction of the walls or after. Do not forget when building that the bath will fall over time, so the installation of windows in parallel with the construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, then you can start installing window frames. If the places, early left under the windows turned out to be less than the frame, they can be cut through with chainsaws.

The windows for the steam room use plastic or with wooden frames. As for the door, it is necessary to give preference to the tree and when installing it should be remembered that even the treated surface of the tree, with elevated moisture swells, and is insufficient compressed.

Under the door of the tree, there must be a small threshold, which will prevent the heat loss. The handle on the door from the steam room should be wooden, you can get a burn from the metal.

Erecting the construction of a bar with professionals of a construction company. What is better to do or hire professionals yourself?

Natural shrinkage, internal work

The trim of a bath from a bar inside, should be made as soon as the construction was satisfied. After laying upper side bars, the construction should be covered with slate and leave no less than half a year without operation, it is better in winter.

After half a year, the coating is removed, then covered with a constant roof, put windows, doors and carry out internal works.

Useful tips for building a bath without the help of specialists

If you do not have practices in construction, then in this case, the preference is worth paying to small baths, sizes of 3.5 / 3.5 meters, a family of 3-4 people may fit in it, while its equipment may consist of a pre-banker, washing and Of course a steam room.

If your private plot is small, then in this case the bath can be combined with the utility room, very often the steam room is attached to the summer kitchen.

It is better to have such a design in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors would not interfere with your rest.

The inexperienced builder is better to give preference to a belt foundation if it allows the soil.

Walls both from the inside and outside do not require a special coating, as a last resort, it can be done by varnish, an antiseptic agent

Many believe that the bath is expensive pleasure, besides from a double bar, that is, a natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks on your own on your own, and after we build the steam room itself, thereby having received a full-fledged Russian bath from a natural bar cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

How to build a bath from a bar with your own hands: video, technology, step-by-step instruction

How to build a small bath, for example, 100x100 or 150x150 do it yourself from a bar? Consider the entire process: from choosing materials, before the construction of walls

Construction of Bruz Bath: Benefits of Material and Firing Stages

In this article we will look at the construction of a bath from a bar. Why this material? Because the tree for many centuries perfectly proved her championship in this matter. And the bar is most convenient in construction, but let's consider it in more detail its advantages:

Stock Foto Sauna made of timber

Dignity of material

1. Popularity. Thanks to this quality, it is easy and easy to find and most importantly choose a suitable project. The presence of many schemes and drawings will significantly simplify the work of work with their own hands.

Example of a sauna drawing from a bar

1. A light weight. It means that a powerful foundation is not required, which makes it possible to save significantly.
2. Easy installation work. This building material is lung in the assembly. And unlike logs, it can be collected immediately on the basis of it, and not separately on the prepared platform, followed by transportation.
3. High heat saving quality. Very important moment in the functioning of the steam, which should be fine with high temperature. Otherwise, there will be very high costs of fuel materials.

Poor thermal insulation will result in greater consumption of firewood

1. Minimum shrinkage. That is, the deformation changes under their own pressure will not be almost.
2. Affordable price. Wood although expensive in itself, but there is a very big difference in prices between products with different treatment levels and between different rocks of trees. So you can always pick up something under your budget.
3. Environmental purity. The wellness effect of the steaming will be even more significant if you are surrounded by completely natural materials.

Harmony with nature

Thanks to the combination of all the above qualities, the construction of a bar from a bar is very popular among owners of their own country sites.

Construction works

The construction of a bar from a bar starts not from earthworks, but from sorting. Because the entry into the design of poor-quality material can lead to the most undesirable consequences.

Sorting

To protect yourself from unpleasant surprises in the future, it is necessary to postpone products with the following signs:

• Cracks of considerable depth. Such a bar may soon split at all.

Fish in wood

• The presence of fungus, traces of rotting and insect pests. The resulting process will bring his job to the end.

Blue stains on wood

• Deformation along the longitudinal axis. The timing must be even with a smooth surface. Otherwise, in the masonry, it is formed sluts, which is absolutely unacceptable.

Tip: Products hit by fungus or insects, immediately burn. Otherwise, there will be a threat of damage to the rest of the material. The deformed samples can be used to be used at the base after careful processing.

Waterproofing

Instructions for mounting log on concrete involves high-quality waterproofing to protect wood from humidity.

• We apply a melted bitumen using a brush or roller on a cement surface.

Foundation, Bituminous Bitumen

• From above, after frozen bitumen, cover the rubberoid layer.

Ruberoid coating for waterproofing

Training Bruus

The most common and simple construction technology of a bar from a bar is to combine products using the method "in the paw", that is, without the outgoing part on the reverse side.

Variants of various ways of connecting timber

For successful work, you need to create templates and make appropriate cutouts on all wooden products.

Enhanced attention to the details adjacent to the base. They should be treated with an antiseptic, can be used for savings.

Construction of Sruba

Building a bath from a bar - it's a responsible, especially the construction of a log, and passes as follows:

1. Put on the surface of the foundation wooden rails. This will prevent the bruse dock with the base and create the necessary ventilation holes. What will significantly extend the service life of the material, protecting it from the spread of mold and rotting processes.
2. Mount the first crown:

• Install the timber on the rail.
• Carefully check its horizontality. If there are the slightest deviations - correct them. Since the evenness and reliability of the rest of the design depend on this element.
• We connect the bars of the base.
• The space between the tree and the cement we blow the mounting foam.

Tip: Fix the fasteners of the lower crown is not worth it. It will be enough for her stability of the severity of the whole building.

Lower warehouse

1. On top of the crown, create a layer of insulation.

For this, the following materials are quite traditionally suitable:

Pacle Between timber

Moss as insulation

At the same time, the pass and moss should be laid with the release on the sides of 10 cm so that in the future it is tightly tumped by the material in the slot between the beams. Jute is sprinkled with a width of the product and nailed with a construction staple brackets or steel nails.

1. Next, we install brushes with a cross section of 15 by 15 cm by analogy with the first. Fix them using brazen or iron pins, through pre-prepared discharge holes. In this case, the more precisely the correspondence of the diameters of the holes with the diameters of the pins, the stronger will be the design.
2. The last top of the crown is not fastened. Construction of bar baths involves the possibility of their removal for the arrangement of ceiling beams.

Ready wooden walls

Arrangement of door and window openings

Installing window frames and door boxes in two ways:

In this case, you include the holes in the process of laying the bar, and then squinter the chainsaws. Such a building technology is easier and safer.

Saw can be achieved perfect result

1. During the construction of a church.

This is a more time-consuming and dangerous occupation. The fact is that after the construction of the construction, it will definitely give a shrinkage. And in the presence of built-in window frames, the wall may be a story.

What will lead to the need to repair immediately after the end of construction work and will significantly increase the final cost of building a bath from a bar.

Final stage

After the construction of the whole construction of the stele on top of the bar, the forty-chalmere boards and cover the rubberoid. In such a state, the framework should stay at least six months to give the necessary shrinkage and acquire its final form. After that, flooring is carried out and roofing work.

Build a bath from a bar with your own hands

If you used moss or pass as a insulation for a bath, then immediately after the shrinkage should be processed all the walls. The process is that with the help of cacopa, tightly drive the protruding edges of the insulation material in the slot between the bars.

Seal Paklya Konopathic

When using jute in this process there is no need. Since it creates a sufficiently dense layer and with a simple imposition.

The tree has always been the best building material for the construction of a bath. This contributes to his peculiarity to keep warm, environmental purity, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

So that work went easier, and the building was more reliable, it is recommended to use the bar. Smooth smooth products of the right forms are easy to install. It is also easy to calculate how much it costs to build a bath from a bar in advance when purchasing material.

Ban from a bar ready to use

Construction of Bruck Baths: TECHNOLOGY Building, video instructions for installation with their own hands, photo

Construction of a bath from a bar: how much it costs to build, technology buildings, cost, video instruction on installation with your own hands, photo and price

Bani construction technology from bars do it yourself

Choose a bar for building a bath

Bath of profiled timber

As we have already said, the bar for the construction of the bath can be profiled and glued. And the one and another version of the sawn timber has its advantages and disadvantages that we now consider.

Profiled bar

The profiled timber is made from a log or a pre-harvested faucet. In the first case, the log on four sides is processed to the desired section using a special machine. The profiled bar, drunk from the log, has high quality and immediately harvested bruises (usually this is the connection "spike in the groove"). As for the manufacture of a beam from a faucet, the technology is practically no different, because The boat is a lumber, which has two opposite faces flat (they are cut on a special machine).

It should be noted that very often dachensons for the construction of the bath are used non-rounded logs or a timber, and the boat, which is conveniently stacked and has high strength properties.

As for the advantages of the profiled bar, they include:

• Ecology material
• The lower cost of the material, and, accordingly, smaller construction costs (saving about 25%)
• Attractive Exterior View of Bruus
• The durability of the material (the treated bar will serve over 20 years)
• High thermal insulation properties
• Fast and simple installation of the bath (because the plant manufacturer immediately cuts special fastenings of the bar of the design of the designer)
• Profiled timber can not be separated by decorative material
• The bar has a little weight, which involves the construction of a light foundation (and this is again saving time and money)

The disadvantage of the profiled timber (compared to the glued bar) is a longer shrinkage (about 6 months) and more susceptible to the negative effects of precipitation.

Glued bar

The glued bar for the construction of the bath is created in several stages. First, the lamellas (wooden boards) is checked for defects that are immediately removed. After that, the lamellas are dried to the moisture content of the material not more than 15%. Further, the material is glued together with each other, pressed in special machines and fasteners are cut into the finished glued bar.

The glued bar is of different quality, which is represented by homogeneity / heterogeneity of the tree, the presence of defects and the type of glue. We need to talk more about the latter, because The glue to create a glued timber can be of different quality. The durability and strength of the material will depend on the quality of the adhesive. If a melamine or resorcine glue was used during the harvesting of the bar, which means that the bar will have high quality, which will affect its price. If a polyurethane adhesive was used during a bar, most likely a lumber during bonding had a high humidity, so after you build a bath, the glued bar can start flaws.

It should also be noted such a type of glue as "EPI". This adhesive material is represented as a hardener and adhesive, which have high adhesive properties and are increasingly used by manufacturers of glued timber.

The advantages of glued timber are:

• No shrinkage material
• High durability of material
• Fast mounting bath
• Low weight and attractive type of timber

The disadvantages of the glued timber are a higher price of the material and the presence of many low-quality products on the market.

We draw your attention to one significant disadvantage of both glued and a conventional profiled timber - in the bath from these materials it is impossible to make a reconstruction (that is, to carry the walls or to complete the superstructure in the bath).

Construction Baths from Bruus

Construction Baths from Bruus

The construction of a bath from a bar is a relatively simple process compared to the construction of a brick bath or a bathhouse. It should be noted that the manufacturers of the bar can immediately provide you with the construction of the bath by the specialists of their company for a fee. It is impossible to say that this is a bad option, because The bath will be built quickly, efficiently, and most importantly in the project you have invented.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the process of construction of a bath from a bar can take a lot of time. This is due to 2-3 weeks the frosting of the foundation, as well as with the shrinkage of the bar, after which it is allowed to separate the interior of the bath with decorative materials.

The technology of construction of a bath from a bar is not very convenient to provide in writing, because Visual information is easier to perceive and remember. That is why further we will provide you with a video lesson on the self-erection of a bar from a bar with your own hands, and now we will tell you some tips that will be useful when building your own bath.

Bath construction tips:

1. Choose the foundation correctly. Although the bath bar is a light construction that can be built on a column or pile foundation, a lot depends on the properties of the soil. For example, if the soil is on your portion, then even for a light bath, the construction of a slab or ribbon foundation will be required.
2. If you decide to independently lay a timber, do it with an additional insulation of interventorespace with the help of materials for a cutting of a cut (jute or flanite).

Video lesson Building a bath from a bar

We provide your attention a visual video example of building a bath from a bar with your own hands:

That's all that I wanted to tell you about choosing a bar for a bath with your own hands, as well as about the construction of a bath from this material.

We will help go to you, with a landscaped design of the household plot, and the construction and arrangement of the country house as a whole.

Building a bath from glued and profiled timber with their own hands

Choosing a bar for the construction of the bath with their own hands. How to independently build a bath from a bar? Video lesson construction Bath Bruck.

Bath of a bar of 150x150 do it yourself - the perfect option for the middle climate! But it should not be in a hurry with the implementation of the project - it is very important to choose the problem correctly to avoid problems in the future!

Lay out the decent amount for specialist services or make a log house from a bar with your own hands - to solve you! But even the surface counting of all expenses in case of independent work you will be surprised - savings in this case can be equal to the value of all materials! What is not a reason to take up the work itself. And from what to build a bathhouse, like not a tree!

The advantages of the wooden design are obvious - this is the minimum shrinkage at the end of construction (if the tree is dry), and much less cost compared to the same log structures, as well as much more simple construction technology. Savings also occurs on the foundation, which is made with a tape or column, since the design itself is not so heavy as during construction from brick or stone. Of course, the timber is far from all regions the most economical material, it is possible that after calculations you will find that it will cost you cheaper.

The first rule when choosing a material for a bath is only a coniferous tree of wood! Imagine only how you are soaring in a bathhouse, inside which air is saturated with essential oils, extremely useful for health! Is it worth refusing to themselves in such a pleasure if we take into account that there is no fundamental difference between coniferous and other wood species in the price plan.

All bars are divided into materials forced drying and natural humidity. Exceeded artificial material is much more preferable because it does not give a tangible shrinkage. Determine the quality of the BRUSIEV offered to be sufficient simply - first, they must be laid in the stack, secondly, polished and packed. If the blanks are welded into a bunch, go around them.

You can save on wood with natural humidity. Just keep in mind that it should be applied in construction immediately after purchase - no need to wait until the tree dry. However, and dry billets cannot really be able, because if the upper and side bars will faster, then those that in the middle will maintain humidity up to their use. In addition, cracks and splits will begin to appear when drying, wood can be significantly deformed. Independent drying will take about a year, and there is a lot with this business.

The dimensions of the blanks should be selected based on climate. Brux 150x150 - by no means the only option, it is just the most suitable for the middle strip of climate, Where even in cold winters, the temperature does not fall below -30 ° C. If the climate is still warmer, then the bath 100x100 is suitable, but for the northern regions, the preparation of 180x180 is preferred. Partitions are performed from the option that is acceptable for price and quality. Calculate the desired amount of material is quite simple - we did these tasks in the first school classes.

It is important to buy a full volume immediately, and better - with some reserve, especially since the big party, for sure, there will be a discount. The bars left after the construction will not lie without affairs - of which there will be excellent furniture! When the bars are ready for transportation, prepare on the site a good "pillow" for their storage - put all sorts of boards and logs to the ground with an interval of at least one meter. When the bars are folded, the rails and subtle boards should be laid between them so that the tree should be carried out, not mold.

Since wood is a sufficiently lightweight material, on solid soils can be put on a bar foundation. However, the most versatile and reliable is still a ribbon foundation, which is applicable to any soil, and its arrangement is under power even far from the construction of a person. The only minus is big labor costs, but nothing prevents you from calling for friends and relatives who are the first to bathe in your bathhouse!

Little trench, keep in mind that it should be deeper by a layer of freezing no less than 20 cm, with a total depth of 70 to 80 cm.

The width of the foundation should be greater than the sizes of bars at least than 10 cm, but to rise above the future deficiency must not less than 15-20 cm. The foundation is done on traditional technology - the sand layer is first laid, which eliminates the seasonal soil movements under the foundation of the house. The flooded sand is watering with water and after the sediment also tamper. On top of it you can put concrete blocks or pour it with a concrete solution.

For blocks, you will need an additional technique, which, moreover, it does not always be possible to drive up to the right place. Therefore, it is easiest to put a formwork, lay the walls by the rubberoid so that it does not take place anywhere and pour the mixture. When pouring, the arm of the reinforcement is installed, to which the first row of Bruusyev will be attached. Next, do not forget to lay a burlap or sawdust layer, thanks to which you can easily maintain the desired humidity.

After two weeks, and the best and only month of drying the foundation, you can start installing the so-called strapping crown. Use the most durable and strong bars for him, better if they are greater thickness than others, for example, 200x200. It is recommended to exclude the touch of wood to the foundation to protect the bars from rotting, for example, pave the same ruler.

The lower wheel should be previously treated with antiseptic, some masters are treated with machine oil. The construction of the bath is possible by different scenarios - and the location of the bars nails and cut the grooves. With a fresh wood, it is better not to use nails - when drying, they do not give to the bars, as a result of which the gaps are formed. Pages are considered the most reliable clutch method.

The bath from the bar is an extra building on the plot, which is not as easy as it may seem at first glance. In the presence of professional construction skills, special knowledge and experience, the preparation and implementation of the project really will not take a long time. However, it is quite dangerous for such a business for such a thing: the design may not be served long. In any case, it is worth familiar with the features of projects and their incarnation.

Preparation for construction

Before building a small bath, you need to perform preparatory work.

Selection of space for location

Any design, regardless of the area and destination, should be started to plan, following certain standards and rules. A place under the bath must be chosen taking into account a number of requirements.

The structure should not:

1. To be too close to the residential building.
2. Harm the communication system.
3. Check the closest plot to it.

It is necessary to take into account the distance to other structures in order to avoid problems with civil servants and neighbors. Snip rules regulate, at what distance it is necessary to build a bath from other structures. According to the rules established by the state, from the bath to other structures and buildings should be:

• 3 meters - to a residential building;
• 4 meters to medium trees, and 5 meters to large;
• 1 meter to other shrubs;
• 4 meters from buildings where animals are contained.

Selection of material for walls

Yes, the bath can be built from any materials. But the same brick, polystyrene and foam block is preferably not used. They are heated too much, and then they cool for a long time. In such structures, a strong humidity is created, and during ventilation, the room dries very quickly.

Bricks and blocks, if desired, can be used, but they must have a multi-layer cladding for such a variable thermal regime.

The best option is the timber. It does not require any facing. In addition, it is a tree that gives a useful and healthy couple when warming up.

Drawing up project documentation

The creation of the Bani project consists of:

1. Opports of sketch and drawing.
2. Draw up the schedule of work.
3. Calculation of estimates.

With the help of the drawing, you can:

• make the right orientation on the sides of the world;
• plan doors and windows;
• competently carry out wiring.

It is necessary when drawing up a project to take into account the climatic conditions and location of the object:

1. Windows is desirable to put from the west and south.
2. Doors put on the side of the house.
3. If it is possible, it is better to build a bath on any elevation. Thanks to this, the storm waters will bypass it.

On our site you can find contact with the construction companies that offer the construction of a bath from a profiled bar. Directly to communicate with representatives, you can visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-rise country".

Obtaining permission in administrative bodies

If you build a bath without claiming it in the relevant structures, according to any complaints of neighbors, it can be demolished.

Therefore, it is necessary that the project is approved. To do this, he must include:

1. Floor plan, even if the bath consists of one floor. The plan should include detailed drawings, cuts and explication.
2. Approximate estimate for materials.
3. Type of foundation with drawings.
4. Written agreement of all the nearest neighbors on the construction of the bath.

Obtaining permission - mandatory procedure.

Bath layout

In order for the project to be complete and allowed the first time to get permission in administrative bodies, it is necessary to know the bath device well. This will help make the right drawings.

Baths consist of 4 parts:

1. Pregnant.
2. Shower.
3. Pair.
4. Tambour.

Typical Bath Planning with Tambour

Tambour

After the entrance, the person falls into the tambour. Tambour simultaneously is the hallway and protecting the pre-air from getting cold air. It is sometimes used as a locker room. The size chooses the future owner.

Pregnant

Behind the camps there is a pre-banker. This is a room where people are resting. Because of this, it should be made comfortable, comfortable, and most importantly - spacious. This room is also used as a place for cooling, so the presence of the window is necessary.

Important! Many make the floor slightening. This is a gross mistake. After leaving the feet of the feet can be wet, which will directly lead to injury.

Shower

Pair

At the very end of the bath there is a steam room. The main thing is that you need to take into account - the doors should not go to the vestibule! This error will constantly reduce the temperature in the steam room, which will reduce its efficiency.

Stages of construction baths

Below is a step-by-step answer to the question of how to build a bath from a bar.

Foundation

The construction of a bath bar begins with the construction of the foundation. From the quality and reliability of the base will depend on the strength of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to take this stage with full responsibility.

1. In addition to the material, choosing the type of foundation, the type of soil and relief should be taken into account.
2. Given that the facilities from the bar are not heavy to equip the base with a flat relief, the belt foundation will be an excellent choice.
3. If the relief drop is more than one meter, it is better to choose boronobiling piles.

If it is decided that on a particular land the bath from a bar with a belt foundation will be erected, it is necessary to start work as follows. The first thing tolerate a ready-made plan for the terrain. It will help in this theodolite. In the absence of this construction instrument, it is proposed to use pegs and cords. Using them, you can also hold straight lines.

As soon as the markup is ready - the construction of the foundation begins. The first thing is rolling trenches. Their depth is determined by the type of soil and the depth of the freezing in this area. If the ground is poured, the trench must be 17-20 cm more maximum drainage depth. Depending on the climatic belt, the last indicator may vary.

A layer of sand is poured into the finished trenches, the minimum thickness of which is 13-15 cm. Next, wooden formworks should be installed. In addition to the wooden shield, for this use any sheet materials:

• slate;
• boards;
• plywood, etc.

Then you should lay a layer of waterproofing for the foundation. To give the stiffness of the structure, the foundation can be reinforced using a frame of 14 mm rods that are connected by wires. After that, they prepare a concrete mix to pour the trench. A week after 4, the formwork is cleaned.

Choosing and purchase of timber

Further stages are directly dependent on raw materials from which it is necessary to build a bath from a bar. It is only required to prepare a high-quality tree needed to build walls in the bath.

Bar - one of the most popular and best building materials for the bath:

1. It gives a minimal shrinkage.
2. Does not require fitting.
3. Mounted on a small foundation.

But at the same time, its quality directly depends on the chosen raw material. Therefore, at the procurement stage, you need to be extremely careful.

When the site is found in the moderate climate strip, it is not recommended to use logs, the thickness of which is less than 20 cm. Otherwise, the walls will be too small and thin. Consequently, heat will be held inside very badly.

Small brices are often used in an attempt to save, but this is a cancer. It will only increase costs, because it will be necessary to svew all heat insulating materials.

Important! It is necessary to find and buy a good timber. Do not spend money on material with defects. If there are cracks, axial deformations or lesions should be refused and search in another place.

During the purchase, you should pay attention to the thickness of the stems. If you have the opportunity, it is better to buy those logs, the difference in the thickness between the ends of which does not exceed 3 cm. Timber is cut along the bath length. In most cases, the size of bath complexes are 6x6 or 6x3.

Laying series

1. The first row is called a bustling crown. It is desirable to use the thickest brices and put them on the foundation base. Prior to that, it is necessary to pave waterproofing. After that, they collect lower strapping. Lags are made on it to collect the floor in the future.
2. Then there is a horseshoe crown. The window row is placed on it, and then - Nadokon. How many people will be, calculated during the creation of the plan. The height of the building depends on this factor.
3. In the last stage, when all the crowns are already installed, the log house is left for a while. He must be asking and take his final look. The best time for this procedure is up to 700 days.

The main stage in the construction of the bath is the laying of a mortgage crown:

• Brux 20x20 is great for the first row.
• Be sure - all the bars should be cut so that their length is the same.

Important! Even a small accuracy cannot be allowed. In most cases, choose "in the paw" as a connection type.

When placing the bath on lining, and not on the foundation base, it is desirable to build a temporary roof over the structure.

It is necessary to spend a lot of effort for the perfect location of the rows and the most smooth laying. After the end of the first row, the remaining place between the base and materials fill foam. In fixation of the first wine, there is no need - overall stability guarantees the weight of the structure.

As soon as the grazing assembly process ends, they put window and door boxes.

Installation process: Additional factors

It should be done to make waterproofing between the base and the first bar of the bar. The surface is covered with bitumen, then lay a layer of rubberoid. As soon as the first layer cools, the second and rubberoid are superimposed.

Mortgage rows should always be treated with antiseptics:

• Special attention should be paid to the surface adjacent to the base.
• Machine oil is perfect as impregnation.

Most professionals use exactly this oil, because it is inexpensive and sold almost everywhere.

1. Lack of contact with the foundation.
2. Improve ventilation.
3. Protection of trees from mold and fungus.

All of the listed will increase the shelf life of the tree.

Roofing, screed and finishing - final stage

1. Welsh floor.
2. Make a small finish inside.
3. Emboss the roof.

The roof is done very simple. You should choose between single and duplex. Their main difference is in the slope. The duct is made of 2 planes, which together form a horse.
Single bed is one canvas. It is chosen for garages, sheds and other non-residential structures.

It is from the installation of lags begins flooring. Boards are laid on the lags. It is advisable to do from pine or larch. Be sure to need a sex board!

Further work directly depend on which gender is built. In the baths do not flow or flowing floors. When choosing a second board, just put as close as possible to each other, slightly zooming the angle. At an angle, water flows into the groove or siphon.

Further finish is a completely question of the taste of the owner. Bar is an interesting and designer favorable material that does not require great efforts in the design after construction. Leaving him in pristine form, it will be possible to create an atmosphere of the classic Russian bath.

Video Description

Interesting interior design ideas - in this video:

Those who intend to build a sauna or a bath from a bar, and even from scratch, you need to gradually solve quite a few tasks. Select the project and material, explore the video and tips on the construction of a church with your own hands. Detailed instructions are in this article.

Bath bar: how to choose

Defined with what to build a bath, many owners are not accidental preferring to Brus. In his favor, such characteristics testify:

• the ability to keep warmly well;
• aesthetics;
• minimum shrinkage;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

As in the log, in a bar from a bar smells like a tree, resins - as if in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who accept bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper to build such a building cheaper and more quickly than its analogue from the logs: the log cabin can be installed immediately on the foundation, and the finish should be carried out without waiting for a long shrinkage.

Perhaps the most significant flaws from the bar are only two: a tendency to rot and high fire hazard.

Council. The bar can be gluing and profiled. The first is more expensive, but it is distinguished by strength and is not deformed. The profiled timber is, in fact, the log that attached a certain form. Due to the presence of spikes and grooves it is easier to connect. But the shrinkage of such log cabins can occur for quite a long time.

The choice of material is more than responsible task. It is believed that the construction is most suitable for the construction, which spilled from December to March. For all the rules, it is stored on the substrate and dries about a month under natural ventilation. By buying a bar or getting it out of our own stocks, pay attention to such nuances:

1. The presence of cracks is a serious defect. Even small gaps will expand over time, becoming the cause of wood rotting.
2. Little holes - a sign that bugs settled in the bar.
3. Blue stains say that the material began to refuse. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Design and fill foundation

What a sauna should be - depends only on the preferences of its owner. Convenient if after the steam room you like gatherings with a kebab in the fresh air. In a bath with an attic, you can equip an extra room and accommodate guests there. But the glazed veranda is a great place for summer kitchen or billiard room.

If you are planning to build a two-story building, make a durable tape foundation. Otherwise, you can do the simplest columnar. The ribbon is laid at a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

1. I dug the ditch, on its bottom, embark on sand or gravel (layer thickness - 15 cm).
2. Make a wooden formwork.
3. Inside, equip the frame from the reinforcement.
4. Make the fill with concrete.

For columnar foundation:

1. Around the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bath, dig a pits to 40 cm deep. The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
2. In each of the channels, make a 15-centimeter sand pillow.
3. Install the brick columns in the pits. Their height is about 0.5 m.
4. When bookmarking the foundation for greater strength, reinforce the poles.

Attention! In any case, do not forget about waterproofing. To do this, on the surface of the foundation, apply a softened bitumen and cover it with a layer of rubberoid. When everything freezes, repeat the same again.

Walling. Bruz connect in corners: ways

For the first row (crown) of the bath, experienced masters are recommended to take a bar having a section 20 x 20. For all other crowns, the material is suitable with parameters 15 x 15. The main thing is that the length of all instances is the same. Construction of walls consists of such steps:

• Laying on the foundation of the rail at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is an additional insulation for timber. Reiki must have a thickness of no more than 0.15 cm and be treated with an antiseptic.
• Location of the first row of Bruusyev. Previously, they should be treated with special antiseptic solution or conventional machine oil. Before the connection, make sure that the surface is strictly horizontal. Use for this level.
  3. The wedding of the first row bars and filling the space between the rails of the mounting foam.

Council. For the first crown (sruba series), take the timber from larch or oak. These breeds are well tolerated humidity.

• Laying over the first crown of the insulation layer, for example, from a pacular or moss. This is relevant for all subsequent rows of Bruusyev.
• Location and consolidation of the second crown. For connection, use wooden brazers or metal pins. For them, holes must be drilled in advance. If you take nails - it is better that you can "drown" in the wood, because on the surface of the hats rust and the cause of the rotting of the bar.
• Laying the remaining rows. You do not need to customize them. The last two crowns are better not to connect, because you have to remove them during the roof mounting.

Brussia can be connected to each other longitudinally, as well as in the corners. The first option is used when instances are shortened in order to put them in full length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter bar is used for a bath 6 x 6). In other cases, you can resort to the angular connection. It happens with the residue when the speakers of the bar remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a designer point of view. It has 3 mount options:

• 1-bit;
• 2-bit;
• 4-bit.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut into the bar. The optimal compound is obtained as a result of a 4-sided clutch, although this work is the most time consuming. Fastening without a residue, which makes a jack, on the keys or spikes, is considered less reliable for the bath, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in the bath. Roof construction

Placeing the bars, you can make a small gap in the ranks - where windows and doors are planned. After the log house is ready and takes place for shrinkage, you should cut the openings with chainsaws. But there is another option: to make windows and the door immediately, in the construction process. For this, they will need special grooves and instances of bars with an endless word. The second method requires more time, and as a result of the shrinkage, the finished windows and doors can be deformed.

The roof on the bath can be a single - quick and inexpensive. It is mounted from transverse lags that are harvested at an angle. In this case, the precipitate will not linger on the roof. Diva roof is a good option, if you need to equip a attic or a rest room under it. Installation of rafters and coatings from Oberesatin is more convenient to do on Earth, and then put the finished design on the log house. It can be covered with metal tile, rubberoid or ondulin.

Council. Different materials for the roof are optimal for different angles of inclination. For example, 5 ° is suitable for runneroid, and for ondulina - 30 °. Take this feature when choosing a coating.

Bath from a bar do it yourself: video

Construction Baths from Bruus: Photo