Sub-floor in a wooden house on stilts. Insulation of the floor in a frame house on piles. Floor insulation technologies

A timber frame house on stilts should have a light but warm floor. This norm is due to the need not to overload the base of the building. The structure is created solid, insulated, ensuring comfortable living in the house. The floors are built in a frame house on piles, taking into account some of the features that are taken into account during the construction of the building.

Features of installing floors in a frame house on piles

The foundations of such a structure in Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation have some nuances. An air space separates the lower part of the house from the surface of the earth. The absence of specially equipped cladding, the presence of decorative closure of the perimeter of the piles leaves the outer part of the floors unprotected from the influence of negative temperatures.

Arrangement of a concrete base will require time, additional financial costs. This option will lead to an increase in the load on the piles, which is not always acceptable. The creation of a full-fledged sheathing around the perimeter with the organization of an underground space is also not a cheap option. Often, financial constraints do not allow equipping a high basement.

What to make the floor of

The building material for the arrangement of the structure is wood. For an inexpensive frame, subfloor, ordinary coniferous timber, boards are used. It is better to use aspen, oak, but their cost is higher. The wood from these trees is durable, not subject to decay. For rough floor coverings, the following are used:

plywood;
boards;

The finish depends on the premises where it will be installed. In bathrooms, it is preferable to use tiles. In living quarters, floors are mainly made from the following materials:

solid wood boards;
parquet;
glued parquet board;
parquet boards from solid wood.

Important: It is first necessary to treat wooden building materials with a special composition that prevents rotting, an antiseptic.

An inexpensive option is glued wooden building material, but its service life is short. Optimally, a solid board, which is considered the most wear-resistant material.

Floor supporting structures

The arrangement of the floors begins immediately after the installation of the piles. First, their surface is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. It is laid on the piles, a wooden strapping from a bar is attached, on which logs are installed. To do this, use inexpensive conifers, aspen, oak. The size of the bars is not less than 10x10 cm. Well-dried wood, without defects, is laid. The step between the beams is made 0.5 m.

In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are inserted, on which the subfloor is laid. After its installation, waterproofing is performed.

The waterproofing material should fit the joists and go to the walls. Otherwise, it will not be possible to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.

The following are used as insulation:

film;
special membrane with perforations;
isol, its derivatives.

Fastening is carried out to a wooden structure with a stapler, construction tape. At the joints of the strips, a fly-fishing of waterproofing sheets is necessarily done.

How to insulate the floor

Insulation can be done with several materials. The main ones are:

expanded polystyrene;
foil insulation;
penoizol;
ecowool;
cork material;
mineral wool;
polystyrene concrete.

After laying the waterproofing layer, the selected type of insulation is placed between the logs. Each of them has its own advantages. An inexpensive option is the use of glass wool, mineral wool. On sale they can be in rolls, plates. Laying is done between the lags. Glass wool must be handled with care. After its placement, insulation is made so that dust does not enter the room.

Important! When using these materials for insulation of floors, it is necessary to leave gaps for ventilation.

When arranging the floor, cranial bars are attached to the logs, on which the lower subfloor is installed from plywood, OSB boards or boards. Waterproofing is laid on top of the log with sagging in the gaps. After that, the selected thermal insulation material is placed. From above, the constructive "pie" is closed with a vapor barrier material and the floor is installed.

Warm floor

You can make more effective insulation by installing an additional warm floor. Plywood sheets are laid on the boards of the lower filing. After that, the waterproofing is installed. Expanded polystyrene is chosen as a heat-insulating material.

An important point! The surface of the insulation should be flush with the upper edge of the log. The vapor barrier film is laid with the calculation of the spade on the walls, above the level of the future finish coating.

A reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the vapor barrier, which is poured with a thin layer of concrete mortar. After it has set, a layer of foil insulation with reflective properties is laid. The next step is the installation of heating mats, installation of the system. After checking the performance, a concrete screed is made. After the surface has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the finishing coating.

Installation of floor coverings

After finishing the installation of the insulation, a layer of boards with a thickness of 30 mm is installed. The distance between the boards is chosen from 0.4-0.5 m. The lathing, made along the logs, allows you to provide an air gap and ventilation.

Further installation consists in the installation of the subfloor. To do this, use a regular board or grooved board. Fastening to the crate is made with self-tapping screws. Pre-selected flooring can be installed on the sub-floor.

In the bath, toilet instead of rough boards, OSB, plywood are laid, and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then additional waterproofing is done. After the preparatory work, the tiles are laid. Installation of the floor is not difficult, if you have experience in construction work, all processes can be performed independently.

More and more often, the foundation of a frame house is being erected on screw piles. This is a convenient and simple option that has a low cost. However, it requires reliable thermal insulation, otherwise it will be cold in the room in winter. That is why it is better to make the base of the floor from wood, it is more natural and retains heat better.

I will tell you more about the individual arrangement of floors in a frame house on stilts.

What is the complexity of the floor device in a frame house on stilts?

Such a foundation is notable for its low cost, short installation time and versatility, i.e. the ability to use it on all types of surfaces (floating ground, difficult terrain, etc.).

However, no one is immune from shortcomings, in this case - a blown underground. To avoid this, you will need serious insulation and vapor barrier. This will help solve the following problems:

Prevents the formation of fungal deposits and decay of the floor.
Will increase the energy efficiency of the floor.
Will relieve the appearance of moisture on the floors.

Also, I will immediately note some points that can improve the quality characteristics of the future floor:

I always treat the lower harness with an antiseptic. For this, it is better to use a special composition of deep penetration;
I place the heat seal between the underlay beams;
I make a padding for the supports, which helps to reduce thermal conductivity, in order to prevent the soil from freezing under the building.

Features of the device floor on piles

Usually I use a pile foundation in the case of:

work on aggressive soils (stony, swampy, etc.);
with an uneven ground surface;
limited construction periods;
the impossibility of bringing the soil base into a condition suitable for construction.

This type of foundation is a metal pipe, along the edges of which a metal tip is installed. The cone-shaped point is inserted into the earth and firmly fixed in it. If the soil is loose, then I additionally compact it with soil.

To evenly distribute the weight of the structure on the foundation, the tops of the piles are cut at the same level, the heads are installed, and a circular winding is arranged on top. They combine the pillars into a solid structure.

Keep in mind that screw piles are not driven into the soil, but screwed manually or mechanically!

Any strapping material: steel, wood, concrete. The quality of the strapping and the selected material is the basis for the flooring of the first floor of the frame house.

To protect the floor structure from excess moisture, I attach waterproofing protection to the top of the piles before starting the piping.

The structure of the floor of a frame house

Determining the necessary material for the flooring of a frame house, I pay great attention to its strength and weight. In order to prevent the load on the building's supports, the weight of the product is chosen to be minimal. Ideally, the material is selected from wood (aspen, oak, pine needles, etc.) must be dry and without visible damage ..

Having prepared the base and the grillage, I begin to install the floor structure. To carry out wooden strapping, I recommend using beams, 10x10 cm in size. It is better if they are made of coniferous materials, which are distinguished by wear resistance, durability and reliability.

The harness must be strong, therefore, for large areas, where there are more than three meters between the supports, I strengthen with additional posts.

In order for the tree to last a long time, the structure must be protected. I do this with the help of special anti-fungal treatments. Then, at the bottom of the underlay material, I fasten the sheathing of boards measuring 30 by 30 mm.

In order to increase the strength of the floor, I use jumpers. I stuff them on top of the forged base at a distance of 150 cm from the latter. This technique should be used when using a jellied floor with heating in the house.

Frame house floor cake

The foundation on screw piles has a distinctive feature, namely, the presence of a strapping from the beams of its supports, which simultaneously serves as a lag. Thanks to this step, the construction cost becomes several times lower.

The floor cake in a frame house on stilts is:

The subfloor in a frame house on stilts is the basic basis of the entire building structure. To create it, I use wood material, chipboard, OSB or plywood.
Waterproofing layer - it is best to use a perforated membrane. Even ordinary film will do.
Insulation layer - the best material here is basalt wool, expanded clay or expanded polystyrene. They are durable and high-quality materials with increased density, which is very important in floor insulation.
Vapor barrier - prevents moisture from accumulating and prevents the insulation from getting wet.

The substrate for the finishing of the floor is selected based on the finishing material, i.e., when laying parquet or laminate on the floor of the first floor of a frame house, I lay plywood underneath. Decorating in the future with tiles or linoleum, I use a dry screed. If the floor is water, I pour a screed under it.

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At first I was engaged in roofing, but for more than 12 years I have been building frame houses

for 17 years there was only 1 warranty case (corrected within 2 days) You can safely look for reviews about me on the Internet by the name of the site or by Stepanov Mikhail

Features of choice floor material

Observing the quality and reliability of the floor overlap of the first floor of a frame house, one should be sensitive to the selection of building materials. When choosing the load-bearing parts of the structural cake of the floor, you should select the wood depending on the weather whims of the area, weight loads, aggressive room conditions (bathroom, kitchen, etc.).

Most often, the following is used for the floor of the first floor of a frame house:

Needles are a cheap, persistent species. I use this material in small rooms.
Aspen and oak are expensive materials with high durability and long service life. The quality of the material allows it to be used in other rooms.

I dry thoroughly before laying wood flooring. If this is not done, cracks and cracks appear over time.

I buy wood of the 1st class (no more than 20% moisture content). To calculate consumables, I add 10% to the area of the house. It is better to buy boards two meters long. In order to avoid discrepancy in color, texture, I select the material from the same batch.

It is best to purchase a flooring from edged grooved board, it does not require additional grinding work, and this significantly saves time and reduces costs.

Waterproofing materials

To protect the coating from moisture, many use glassine or roofing felt. Glassine is notable for its low cost, but it is short-lived. The reason for this is the composition, the basis is cardboard, which, under the influence of aggressive factors, is destroyed. From sudden changes in temperatures, cracks appear on the roofing material, its protective properties are lost.

The best means for waterproofing the floor in a frame house on piles is a single or two-layer membrane material consisting of synthetic fibers or fiberglass.

To make the job easier, I use bitumen mastics when waterproofing. Such mastics, according to the method of their application, are of two types - hot and cold. The first consists of mineral fiber, gypsum, asbestos, etc., the second of lime.

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Step 1.
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Warming principles

For a bundle of screw piles, I almost always use wood materials. You need to know that the supports cannot be overloaded, which is why the sheathing by weight is chosen as easily as possible. The structure must be protected from external factors (wind and moisture, etc.).

I use the following material for the bottom sheathing:

OSB is an affordable, durable material, but it does not tolerate exposure to water. Before installation, it is necessary to treat the tree with a special compound, and cover the connecting seams with a sealant.
Chipboard is an easy-to-assemble material, but it collapses when moisture gets on it. Unlike OSB, it is more environmentally friendly.
Multi-layer plywood - I use only materials marked FC and FSF, their structure contains formaldehyde resins. Thanks to them, the casing is resistant to external destructive influences.

You can also use material from ordinary wooden boards with a cross section of 5 * 10 cm. This is an expensive option, but more durable and environmentally friendly.

The wood must be pretreated with special compounds.

When choosing an insulating material, it is necessary to carefully study its capabilities when using rooms with high humidity, or when it gets on it. The best option would be:

Mineral wool - I mainly use basalt wool. It is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable, deformation-resistant material. When properly laid, it practically does not shrink.

Extruded polystyrene foam is the best material with stability and hygroscopicity. Among the minuses are high cost and flammability.
Expanded clay is an inexpensive and fireproof natural material, but the thermal insulation qualities are lower than synthetic materials.

Sometimes foam can also be used, which is characterized by high thermal protection and low cost. The downside is high water absorption and deterioration in quality characteristics at low temperatures.

Installation of the floor of a frame house on screw piles

I use antiseptics and fire retardants to protect the wooden elements and also to extend the life of the building. These are special compounds that protect wood from rodents, insects, as well as decay, mold, etc. This must be done even before the installation of products.

The floor is set up in the following sequence:

1. To begin with, I make four holes on the supports of the screw foundation, then I lay a layer of waterproofing and fix it. I spread the beams around the structure and connect them together.

2. With the help of self-tapping screws, I install the beams to the heads, fasten the rest of the beams to the heads. I take steel brackets and connect the harness parts together.

3. With a building level, I check the evenness of the installation of the beams.

4. I install a crate from the bottom of the beams, it will serve as the base for fastening the base.

5. Then I proceed to the rough finishing and laying of thermal insulation:

First, I cover the base of the floor with a waterproofing film, which will prevent moisture from getting inside the insulation.
I put thermal insulation between the lags. On each side, I provide a margin of 0.5 cm so that the material fits snugly together.

I put a vapor barrier on top of it. It should be overlapped to prevent cold bridges.

The pile-screw foundation provides for the mandatory driving of the basement. You can do this in one of the following ways:

Brick - the base here is a bed of crushed stone and sand. Then I put the hammering itself into a half-brick; it is not necessary to use fittings here. I will advise ceramic and clinker bricks.
From corrugated board - the basis for installing the profiled sheet is the spans, which I attach to the bored posts.
From chipboard - I mount the material in the same way as corrugated board.

We must not forget about natural ventilation, which does not allow moisture to form in the structure. I lay out the blind area from paving slabs or paving stones or pour a concrete screed. It is important to maintain an angle of inclination of 4 degrees from the house. I seal the junction of the cladding and blind area with a sealant, this prevents the accumulation of moisture and other precipitation under the base of the house.

Thermal insulation of the first floor

To insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles, I use a water circuit or heating mats. After installing plywood or OSB boards, as well as waterproofing, I start laying polystyrene foam. For the convenience of work, this material is best purchased in sheets.

The top of the styrofoam should be flush with the harness.

On top of the thermal protection, I install a vapor barrier with a margin (the height coincides with the level of the finished floor). Then I install a reinforcing mesh, it will prevent the formation of cracks in the cement.

I fill in a layer of mortar consisting of cement and sand. I leave it to dry, then lay the substrate, lay out the underfloor heating mats, then pour concrete.

In the process of pouring concrete, it must be periodically moistened so that cracks do not appear.

The device of a warm floor in a frame house on piles is not difficult. The main thing is to follow all the rules and nuances of installation, as well as choose high-quality materials.

I am designing a one-story frame house on screw piles with an area of 100 sq. Estimated floor cake: fine mesh for mice, PPS 25-200 mm, edged board 25 mm, vapor barrier layer, PPS 25-50 mm, concrete screed 50 mm with mesh, warm floor.

The fact is that the subfloor board will be purchased in winter and will lie under a canopy until installation in the summer (already when the house is under the roof). It will dry out, I think, up to 20%. I plan to pour concrete two months after the floor.

Tell me if there are any pitfalls here, in particular:

1. Will the PE shrinkage affect the screed?
2. Will the teaching staff help to minimize the changes in the state of emergency.
3. Will the given floor option rot (on the heat calculation it seems to be the norm).
4. Whether the sound insulation will suffer greatly from the use of PPP.

The "pie" you described on the ground floor on the ground floor, which you plan to arrange in your own home, is at least irrational. As a maximum, in a year the other floor will have to be disassembled and redone. We strongly advise you to abandon this design and here's why:

You yourself have doubts whether the wooden planks located between the layers of airtight insulation will rot. We confirm your guess: they will definitely rot. Moreover, regardless of how well you dry them and what you saturate them with. Without ventilation, the wood will be attacked by fungus. Biodegradable building materials must not be placed in structures where moisture can not be removed. And one more thing: it is completely incomprehensible why you need this layer of 25 mm boards at all. Indeed, without a frame or a lag (there is no mention of their presence in your letter), boards of a bearing function will not perform and are not a black floor. Moreover, if they are not attached to the base (we repeat, you do not have a frame), the wood will "twist" over time. You cannot pour the screed two months after laying the lower layers of the floor according to your scheme, the boards and insulation will already be deformed, the structure will have to be disassembled. Even if you manage to initially pick up even boards and pour the screed immediately, until they are warped, it is not a fact that reinforced concrete (in fact, a cement-sand mortar) will withstand deformations and will not crack someday.

The mistake is that for some reason you are trying to invent a hybrid structure: combine wooden load-bearing elements (in fact, the flooring without a frame will not hold the load) and monolithic concrete. Don't come up with know-how, you don't need to. Benefit from expertly developed and proven technologies.

"Correct" designs, reliable and durable

There are two options, wireframe and monolithic:

Let's take a look at the layers sequentially, starting at the bottom and moving up:

The base - it should be as flat and strong as possible. We do not know what kind of soil you have, so see for yourself what to add: crushed stone, ASM, sand and in what layer. In any case, the base must be well compacted. Perhaps it makes sense to make a foundation.
As a base, you can use compacted soil with seeded sand, which is easy to trim in place.
Insulation from moisture in the base is required. On a footing or compacted soil, you can lay a roll of bitumen waterproofing by gluing the panels together and be sure to put them on the wall. Or it is good to spill it with molten bitumen, mastic. You can save money by using an inexpensive vapor barrier film instead of waterproofing. But it should not be laid on the ground (it can break), but between the layers of insulation.
Insulation. What the layer should be, we cannot say without knowing the climatic conditions of your region. In any case, the more, the better, especially considering that it is necessary to prevent the thermal energy of the heated floors from leaking down into the ground. Any sufficiently tough non-hygroscopic and non-rotting effective insulation will do: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), polystyrene foam. Probably, by PSP (this is a common abbreviation for expanded polystyrene), you meant inexpensive PSB-S-25 foam. But not the fact that it will suit you. There are no unequivocal rules on what the brand of foam should be for the installation of monolithic floors. Much depends on the load: for example, in the place where the piano or a large aquarium will stand, it is better to put not foam, but strong foam glass. For heavy furniture - PSB-S-50 maximum density or EPS. In monolithic floors, we would not recommend using expanded polystyrene with a density below 25 kg / m3, with a lower resistance to compression, the density may be insufficient, there is a possibility of floor deformation.
Note! The number 25 in the designation of the PSB-S-25 brand means not the real, but the limiting (highest) density. In fact, in accordance with GOST 15588-86, a manufacturer can sell products with a density of 15.1 to 25 kg / m3 under this brand.

Naturally, many are trying to save on raw materials. We recommend that you buy PSB-S-35 expanded polystyrene for a monolithic floor, the density of which should be 25.1-35 kg / m3, or try to find an "honest" PSB-S-25, the density of which would be closer to the maximum. You can determine it by weighing the required amount of material.

The insulation should be laid in such a way that the joints of the foam sheets overlap, the slots can be filled with construction foam.

Insulation sheets are laid with overlapping joints
Reflective foil. The reflective foil surface reflects heat radiation and saves you up to 2.5% of thermal energy, reducing fuel costs. If you decide to install not just foil, but a layer of foamed polyethylene foam (additional thermal insulation), the reflective surface should be directed upward into the room.
Reinforced concrete screed, thickness 50-60 mm. Concrete, even with fine aggregate, should be laid between pipes and mesh, and it will be difficult to grind, most likely, you will prefer to use a cement-sand mortar. Brand - not less than 150, better than 200. We recommend adding a plasticizer to it during the preparation of the solution, the screed will turn out denser and it will be easier to smooth it. If you order a ready-made solution, you can ask to add a plasticizer on the mixing unit (delivery by a dump truck) or pour it into the mixer tank (delivery by a concrete mixer). During the manufacture of the screed, the underfloor heating pipes must be filled with water or compressed air under operating pressure. Floor heating can be turned on no earlier than a month after the screed is made, the temperature is raised smoothly for three days.
Do not forget that the floor screed, if necessary, is separated by expansion joints: the maximum size of a whole section should not exceed 40 m2, and the length on either side should be 8 m.

Expansion joints must not cross the underfloor heating contours; only supply lines can pass through them in the insulating casing

Also, along the perimeter of the premises along the walls, a damper (coastal) tape must be laid - a strip of elastic material (we recommend using expanded polystyrene foam) with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
Optimal from a thermotechnical point of view, options for covering a heated floor are facing with ceramic, porcelain stoneware tiles, natural stone. These materials transfer heat in the best way and do not deform. Tile adhesive should be specially designed for underfloor heating and have increased elasticity. We do not recommend using parquet and solid wood boards, they will dry out. Acceptable options: laminate, linoleum, not very thick carpet.

Another very important question that you will certainly encounter is the thermal insulation of the basement. Since you have a frame house, on screw piles, you will have to figure out how to make a strong and aesthetic pick-up. There are many options, it can be a frame (wooden or steel), sewn up with siding or asbestos-cement slabs.

The easiest way is to arrange a frame around the house, sheathe it from the outside and insulate it well from the inside.

Vinyl basement siding is expensive, but beautiful and requires no finishing or maintenance. Both the siding and the frame must not be lowered to ground level, in cold weather it can rise. The gap can be closed with a steel apron

Asbestos-cement sheets are much cheaper

You can lay the basement with small-sized concrete blocks, rubble or brickwork.

Under the stone foundation, you will have to make a concrete base

The main thing is to insulate the outer perimeter well and prevent the soil from freezing under the house. The best option is to insulate not only the basement, but also the blind area, as they do everywhere in the cold Scandinavian countries.

The diagram shows how the joint warming of the basement and the blind area changes the nature of soil freezing. The ground under the building (if it is heated) never freezes, which eliminates frost-heaving deformations and helps to reduce operating costs. Use EPS as insulation

And finally. Monolithic floors can be made not only after installing the box at home, but also before, immediately after installing the screw supports and tying them into a common grillage with horizontal elements. With the right approach, it is faster and cheaper.

In countries with a developed construction industry, monolithic floors on the ground are usually arranged before the walls are installed, it is easier. In the photo there is a strip foundation, but the technology is also suitable for a pile foundation. Before starting work, you need to have a detailed project for the placement of communications

About soundproofing

If the floor is monolithic, the upper concrete layer will absorb all noise and vibrations. In the case when the floor is frame and covered with a laminate, you will hear a "clatter" when walking in shoes with a solid sole. Perhaps mice living underground will be a little noisy.

The construction of buildings for any purpose is impossible without fundamental structural elements. A number of such components primarily include the foundation and floor, which are the basis of the entire house.

Peculiarities

The device of the frame structure also includes a set of works on the arrangement of the floor. A properly designed base, made with the use of high-quality building materials, in the future will help eliminate the loss and release of heat through the floors, and as a result, will maintain a comfortable temperature for home owners.

Based on the features of the technology for the construction of frame houses, the foundation of buildings can be of the following types:

a structure erected on screw piles - this option is ideal for soft soil where construction is planned;
concrete pillars, the installation of which should be carried out in harder soil;
strip-type foundation;
a structure created from a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is laid on a solid sand cushion.

The choice and work on the construction of one of the types of foundations for a frame house are the primary stage in the construction of such a building. Experts recommend that you carefully consider the selection of wood to create the frame of the house, taking into account climatic conditions, as well as a number of other important points, since such houses are a capital structure that can be fully exploited for a long time.

Most often, coniferous wood is preferred for flooring in a frame house due to the fact that the raw material has high durability and low cost. Logs made of aspen or oak are expensive products due to their higher quality characteristics.

For work with the base of the floor, it is necessary to purchase well-dried raw materials, since moisture contributes to a decrease in the size of the products, which leads to the appearance of gaps between the laid products.

The base in a frame house is made by installing a rough and final floor. You can make a rough floor using OSB plates, which are fixed to the lower parts of the strapping and log. After that, the rest of the materials responsible for creating the floor in the frame house are laid on the created surface. It is with this technology that the constructional base cake is created.

The subfloor is laid according to the following principle:

over the strapping of the building foundation, the logs are laid, pre-treated with an antiseptic. It is worth choosing raw materials that are more moisture resistant, for example, larch, since it is least susceptible to the decay process;
the section of the board is selected based on the distance between the walls. If it is quite large, then it is worth increasing the cross-section of the products or making additional support from concrete or brick pedestals;

the main task is to achieve such a solid foundation that wooden logs do not sag from loads when people move along them or under the weight of installed furniture;
the step frequency when laying wood should be determined based on the dimensions of the laid OSB boards;
a bar is nailed to the lower part of the lag, on which the edged board is laid;
all sections of the subfloor must contain waterproofing in the form of a film;
in addition, the gaps between the lags are filled with insulation, which is covered with a vapor barrier material and moisture-resistant plywood.

On top of the subfloor, the finishing base is installed. It is a topcoat that can be in the form of parquet or parquet boards, ceramic tiles or laminate.

Kinds

The floor in a frame house can be equipped in several ways. The choice in favor of this or that option will be based on the frequency of residence in it. So, in a country house, the issue of creating a sub-floor is approached somewhat easier, and in frame-type buildings that are being erected for permanent residence, it is most often necessary to do additional insulation, which consists in installing a floor heating system. Taking into account the configuration and type of the existing foundation, as well as financial possibilities, several types of flooring can be distinguished.

Monolithic floor

Such a base is made on a concrete screed. The following positive qualities are inherent in the design:

long service life;
the base is ready for the arrangement of the underfloor heating system.

The concrete screed is carried out after a number of preparatory measures, such as:

work on leveling the soil;
creating a sand cushion;
laying a layer of crushed stone on a sand cushion.

The screed is poured in such a way that no voids remain on the resulting surface. Typically, it takes about 3 weeks for a black base to cure completely.

After the work on creating the screed, the cut of the pie can be represented as follows:

a pillow made of sand and a layer of rubble;
screed with waterproofing and insulation;
vapor barrier material;
underfloor heating construction;
fine screed and floor covering.

Frame floor

Such a structure is erected on a columnar, pile and strip foundation. Its features are in the creation of the construction of load-bearing and intermediate beams and lags. Work on the arrangement of the frame type of floor begins with the preparatory work associated with the installation of the bed. They are boards that are laid on a foundation with waterproofing material. In addition, anchor bolts are attached to the products.

The method of laying the beds makes it possible, at the end of the work, to obtain a rigid and durable structure on the surface. In the logs, cuts are additionally made for the logs. The cross-section of products for each room and floor can be different. Experts recommend using beams with a section of 100x250 mm for the first floor, 70x200 mm for the second, and material with a section of 50x150 mm for bathrooms and shower rooms. Boards are attached to the logs, on which the rough floor is subsequently equipped.

The cross-section of the floor pie on piles is as follows:

OSB boards 6 mm thick;
waterproofing and soundproofing;
insulation;
OSB shield;
extruded polystyrene foam.

For country houses, the frame cake of the floor consists of the above components, including such additional elements as:

foamed foam backing;
gypsum fiber sheets;
any finishing coating.

For the bathroom and kitchen, as well as any other premises where the humidity level in the room will be high, and heating is also required in winter, the cake will look like this:

vapor barrier material;
reinforcing mesh;
underfloor heating contours;
waterproofing;
screed;
a layer of foil-clad polystyrene foam;
finishing base.

In buildings where permanent residence is planned, the arrangement of a warm floor is mandatory. In this case, the floor structure will be as follows:

aluminum plates;
underfloor heating system;
foamed backing and gypsum fiber board;
any kind of finishing base.

Installation

A frame floor can be equipped on its own only if all the necessary tools are at hand, and there is also a clear understanding of the recommended norms and rules for performing work. The flooring is made from materials that are selected based on the individual preferences of the owner of the building.

Choosing a decorative covering made of grooved boards, you should take into account the technology of its laying, which includes the following steps:

the material is laid across the floor logs;
fixing products is done with nails;
at the end of the installation, the floor is cycled;
the final stage of work is varnishing the boards.

Important: in addition to boards, they often prefer to make the flooring from plywood.

The sheet mounting technology is made according to the following scheme:

marking and arrangement of products is carried out in such a way that the joints of materials will be on the logs;
the logs are treated with an adhesive, plywood is laid, the sheets are attached with self-tapping screws or nails. Processing with glue will eliminate the formation of squeaks during the operation of the house;
a small ventilation gap should be left so that the base does not deform with an increase in the humidity level;
where various communications and pipes pass, special holes must be made in the plywood sheets;
the alignment of the edges of the material occurs along the strapping board, marking and trimming of products is performed.

At the end of the work with the arrangement of the floor in the frame house, work begins on the creation of the frame of the walls and roof, followed by the cladding of the house.

To complete the arrangement of the floor on the second floor of the frame structure, you should adhere to the recommendations for performing work, which are somewhat different from the technology for creating the floor on the first floor.

It should be noted that the main task of the floors on the second floor will be to create high-quality sound insulation. Therefore, instead of the usual insulation in the interfloor overlap, it is necessary to use a sound-insulating layer. The most suitable raw material for such work will be sand, which meets the required characteristics, and, in addition, is an excellent heat accumulator. A high level of floor stiffness is also important.

To ensure such qualities, the base, in addition to the beams, should be strengthened with lags, which will add strength to the structure.

Floor mounting technology on the second floor involves the following works:

installation of a rough base to the interfloor beams;
laying waterproofing and vapor barrier;
insulation and raw materials are installed in the gaps between the beams, which provide sound insulation. In some cases, expanded clay is used instead of sand;
floor joists are installed on the beams;

the distance that exists between the lags is carefully filled with raw materials for insulation. For such purposes, mineral wool or any other building material with high incombustibility is usually used;
a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which will exclude the formation of moisture leakage to the first floor in case of unforeseen situations, for example, the formation of a leak in the roof;
the pie is sewn up with a board, plywood or other material suitable for further work on laying the finishing flooring.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house on piles should be carried out, taking into account the design features of such housing. Only in this case you will not face the problem of lack of indoor comfort. When a house is installed on pile supporting elements, it usually has either a basement. This can be considered an advantage, which slowly turns into a disadvantage, which consists in the blowing of the lower part of the house from all sides.

Features of insulation

Such buildings are erected on marshy soils, so the space under them is characterized by a high level of humidity. In order for the house not to be negatively affected by natural factors, its floor covering must be equipped in several layers.

Thermal Insulation Pie

Insulation of the floor in a frame house presupposes the presence of a supporting skeleton, which is combined with. Next comes the wind protection, which is characterized by vapor permeability. It is required to protect the used insulation material from weathering. The next layer is a heat insulator, covered with moisture and vapor barrier layers. The final will be the final floor, which is covered with boards.

How to eliminate errors

When choosing an insulating material for such a "pie", it is necessary to be guided by the fact that it must be of high quality. It is recommended to use good steam and waterproofing products, which will reliably protect the premises from moisture. If the floor insulation in a frame house installed on piles is not performed according to all the rules, then you may face an increase in heating costs, the presence of condensation above the underground and the appearance of mold and mildew.

It is possible to insulate pile structures using several technologies; the main requirement in this matter is the need to use materials that could be operated in humid conditions. Thermal insulation of the floor in a frame house with foam is one of the best and most rational approaches. But at low temperatures and high humidity, this material breaks down into individual elements. If you want to use this thermal insulation, then you should make sure that it is reliably protected from moisture.

Mineral wool is also widespread enough to solve this problem. It is inert to biological influences, has high heat-shielding characteristics and is not afraid of fire. But when water penetrates inside, the protective properties of the insulation are lost. With appropriate measures, you can use any type of mineral wool, among them:

stone;
glass;
slag.

This heat insulator is sold in rolls and plates, but experts recommend using the latter option, since it has a more impressive density compared to its roll analogue.

Floor insulation with penoplex in a frame house is also carried out quite often. This material is polystyrene foam made by extrusion technology. It has low moisture absorption and high strength. These features give the material many advantages over its cheap counterparts. If we compare it with polystyrene, then penoplex will be more reliable.

Alternative solutions

Warming the floor of a frame house with expanded clay is also quite common. It is easy to use this material, and there is no need to resort to outside help. Expanded clay is distinguished by fire safety and low cost. But when compared with the materials mentioned above, expanded clay is inferior in terms of heat-shielding properties.

In the role of waterproof and windproof membranes on a pile foundation, vapor-permeable moisture-windproof membranes should be used, which are easy to install. However, you must be prepared that the cost of such substrates is quite high. As a vapor barrier, you can use a simple plastic wrap, which is laid directly on the insulation layer.

Features of floor insulation with expanded clay

The first, when insulating the floor with expanded clay, is a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is especially relevant, because the insulation absorbs moisture well, which can cause unpleasant consequences. To achieve uniformity, before backfilling with expanded clay, it is necessary to set guide beacons that will determine the level of the future floor.

To securely fix the insulation, a screed layer is used, as well as an upper waterproofing. Before applying the final top layer of the screed, an intermediate fixing layer must be poured in. For this, cement is mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous suspension. It should be poured with a layer of expanded clay. After drying of such a layer, you will be able to get a monolithic expanded clay floor that will not be afraid of moisture and high loads. This design is able to withstand even a small earthquake. The final layer will be a screed, with which it will be possible to finally level the floor.

Step-by-step instructions for floor insulation

At the first stage, the rough floor is equipped, for this a wooden beam is attached to the logs, which is also called cranial. It will act as a support for the finishing planks. The used wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic; at the next stage, you can proceed with the installation of the boards.

If you decide to use expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, it is recommended to install a mesh instead of the subfloor. It is fixed to the lags so that it is able to withstand the weight of the heat insulator used. Overloading the piles with excess weight is not recommended. After completing the arrangement of the subfloor, a vapor barrier is laid on its surface. All moisture from the outside will remain outside, and it will not affect the insulation layer. This area can be vaporized with plastic wrap, which is often replaced with roofing felt.

Thermal insulation of the floor in a frame house at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. On top of it there should be a layer of vapor barrier, which excludes the penetration of condensate and internal moisture into the "cake". When laying a vapor barrier, you should get rid of the gaps that may remain between the sheets of materials. Otherwise, they may arise that are dangerous for thermal insulation, because they will soon destroy the structure of the material.

At the next stage, you can proceed to laying the finished floor using chipboards, floorboards, plywood sheets or other products. Insulation of the floor in a frame house must be accompanied by the protection of the piles with a stationary plinth. In this case, snow will not fall under it. But if you do not intend to build a warm space or you do not have the opportunity for this, then the supporting elements should be covered with a decorative plinth, which is fast and low cost.

Insulation of the floor through the base

When the floor is insulated in a frame house, you can close the basement with your own hands using one of the existing methods. What is a brick or frame imitation of a basement used for, the last of which allows you to equip an analogue of a ventilated facade. If you decide to use masonry, then the pick-up must be built using halves of bricks. The first row should be placed on a pre-fitted sand cushion that is well rammed.

The fence must be waterproofed using roofing material. Correct insulation of the floor of a frame house necessarily presupposes thermal insulation of the basement. For this, its imitation can be used. This technique allows you to complete the work as soon as possible, saving money. The frame is made by installing lathing from wooden beams or galvanized profiles. They must be installed directly on the piles. At the next stage, this structure is sheathed with roofing material, PVC sheets are installed on top, which imitate stone or brick. Polyvinyl chloride products are strengthened with nails or universal screws. The first option is suitable for wooden lathing, while the second is for a metal profile.

Double thermal insulation

Double insulation of the floor of a frame house involves the use of double floor technology. From the name it is clear that the plank flooring will have to be done twice, but the planks will be different. The sub-floor will be made of rough planks that fit well together. A layer of roofing material is laid on top, which will protect the wooden floor.

The next layer will be sand, the height of which should be a limit of 3 to 5 cm. Next, the sand is covered with plastic wrap, reinforced with nails or a construction stapler. The next layer will be thermal insulation, which is pre-cut into pieces. Chipboard slabs should be laid on top, on which the finishing floor will be laid.

Features of Cross Insulation

Cross-floor insulation in a frame house is also used quite often. When the basement floor is equipped with beams with the following dimensions: 200 x 500 mm, the thickness of the insulation should be 200 mm. The upper layer of thermal insulation should be located perpendicular to the lower layers, which gives the name of the technology.

Conclusion

Insulation of the floor in a house with a foundation on piles can be carried out thoroughly, however, if you want to experiment, then thermal insulation can be carried out even with the help of carpet. This method is great for those owners who have not yet decided to open the floor.

To do this, you should use a material that is similar in characteristics to ordinary carpets. The carpet should be laid over the entire floor area of the room, affecting the perimeter. This approach will close the gaps in the concrete and wood floors through which cold air enters from the basement.