How to make a kitchen set itself. How to make a kitchen headset with your own hands: Useful information. Backlight of kitchen furniture

If you have free time, and you want to use it to make anything with your own hands, then you have discovered the page you need and useful in this regard. Here you can learn how to make the kitchen furniture yourself, using braid tools, manual and electric tools, as well as waste from sawn timber.

Template

In order to make kitchen furniture with your own hands, you will have to do not just cut smooth panels, but to make holes in them for connecting to each other and to install accessories. In this case, accuracy is very important, and do similar measurements every time with the help of a roulette or caliper for too long and uncomfortable, besides there is a high probability in errors. To avoid similar troubles, you can purchase or make a template for marking and drilling holes.

For the manufacture of such a template, you will need two ordinary school wooden rules for 20 cm long and school transport. Now these rules need to be glued in the form of the letter T, just be sure to ensure that the angles exactly correspond to 90⁰. Now on the riser, from the beginning of the intersection you need to make a mark at a distance of 8 mm, 16 mm, 32 mm, 50 mm, 70 mm, 100 and 120 mm, drilled in them 2 mm for a pencil diameter.
And now, let's see what these distances are needed: 8 mm Millimeter is needed for end drilling for euroschauses or confirm (EVRIKA); 16 mm Mark, it is the thickness of the part itself, and 32 mm is the thickness of two parts. The remaining holes are needed for marking canopies and retreat from the edge of the part. As you understand, the price of such a template will be purely symbolic, but it will function not worse than professional.

Roller guides and dimensions of boxes

You can learn how to make the kitchen furniture with your own hands only if you can accurately install roller guides for drawers. Modern cabinets do not cost without such fittings, so let's try to bring the general formula to install them. In addition, without accurate calculation, you will not be able to properly install boxes in the closet, and therefore the furniture will be defective even in the presence of a strong and beautiful frame.

We continue to consider the topic, as you have to make furniture for the kitchen and take for example the usual endboard for different kitchen utensils, which is usually in the shuffles. So, suppose that the height of the sidewalls in our cabinet 734 mm with four box facades, h (height) of the base of 70 mm and the gap between the facades 3 mm (3 × 4 \u003d 12 mm). Now we can calculate the height of each facade - 774-12-70 \u003d 652 mm and divided by the number of boxes - 652/4 \u003d 163 mm.

Considering that all drawers should be interchangeable in this case, it is necessary to take into account the extreme position of the shuffling and the facade of the box with a frame of the couches. The extreme position here will be at the upper and lower shuflda, where the lower facade should overlap the bottom, and the top is a bundle under the table top.

The distance between the axial line and the bottom of the guide is 18 mm, as can be seen in the drawing photo and this bottom will coincide with the bottom of the box. The head of the screw is from the strength of 1.5 mm thickness, but we will add 4 mm, in case the facade is not from a 16 millimeter, but an 18-millimeter plates. So, the height of the fastening of the first guide will be 18 + 4 \u003d 22 mm, and if on the floor, then 22 + 16 (bottom) +70 (base) \u003d 108 mm.
Now, having in stock These calculations can be removed permanent, 22 + 16 (bottom) \u003d 38 mm. Calculate another value - the distance from the bottom facade end to the bottom of the shuflda - 38-18 \u003d 20 mm. We remember that the constant for the guide - 38 mm (this is the distance from the bottom end of the facade to the axis of the guide).

Continuing to discuss how to make kitchen furniture yourself, let's calculate the height of the drawer and fastening to them the facade and begin with the top. Pay attention to the photo at the top, and you will see a jumper under the table top, which serves for the rigidity of the design, while holding the sidewalls at the same distance. Now we need to calculate the height of the boxes of the box, but so that it does not rest in the binder and, given the fact that all the facades we have the same - shuflads should be interchangeable.
If the facade is obtained 163 mm, then, in fact, it is quite enough sides with a height of 50-60 mm - the retractable mechanism will function excellent. But if with a low side, hurry in the shuffling of all the little things, then the items simply will fall out.
The minimum distance between the binding jumper and the hoody body should be identical to the diameter of the roller on the guide, that is, 18 mm. In order not to have problems with the swelling of the chipboard (suddenly it will happen) add another half of size - 9 mm and in the end we get 27 mm gap.
Place in height For each box, we have 163 mm (facade) +3 mm (clearance) \u003d 166 mm, and the distance from the bottom edge of the facade to the bottom we have already been determined earlier - 20 mm. Now we calculate the distance from the top edge of the facade to the top of the drawer - 16 mm (jumper) +27 mm (provided by the gap) \u003d 43 mm, but from here we remove 3 mm, which we leave on the gap between the facades and get 40 mm.
Now we calculate the universal height of the side - 163 mm (facade) -20 mm (lower intake) -40 mm (upper cassette) \u003d 103 mm along with the bottom. The side of the drawer will fall to the end to the bottom of the Fiberboard, which has 3 mm thickness, it means that the silent height of the side will be 100 mm. From here you can withdraw formula - H (Box Box) \u003d H (facade) - (20 mm + 40 mm) (lower and upper pisces) -tolemn Fiberboard for the bottom of the shufland.

Council. Sometimes in the kitchen, the lower box is made with a facade, half higher than the rest and you too can make the same tumb. Simply separate the distance for the large facade (taking into account the gap of 3 mm), and the remaining distance is divided into the desired number of boxes.

I will try to tell about how I did a simple kitchen furniture with my own hands. Let's start ...

The client wanted such a kitchen

Those. Total need to make 3 mounted cabinets, washing and wardrobe with drawers and work surface.

Built 3D models, drawings and cutting to the baseman. I advise everyone very much. When drawing out such standard things, an indispensable complex!

Cabinet number 1 - worker

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs
Horizontal 1100x510 - 1 pc
Horizontal 1068x150 - 2 pcs
Vertical 688x510 - 1 pc
1100x100 base bar - 1 pc
Side Bolder 500x80 - 6 pcs
Rear wall drawer 310x80 - 6 pcs
Side Bolder 500x195 - 2 pcs
Rear wall drawer 310x195 - 2 pcs

Cabinet number 2 - washing

When assembling, transverse strips were deployed on 90Gradus and shifted to the wall and doors, respectively.

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 800x510 - 1pc.
Horizontal 768x150 - 1pc.
The base bar is 800x100 - 1pc.
Horizontal 768x80 - 1pc.

Cabinet number 3 - big attached

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 768x385 - 2pcs.

Cabinet №4 and №5 - Small attached

We will produce 2 identical mounted cabinets. It would be better to do one by 400, and the other is 700 to withstand the line with the bottom cabinets, but decided to do so

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 518x385 - 2pcs.

Facades will be purchased, ready. Therefore, they are not in the lists of panels in the schemes.

148x386 3pcs.
257x386 1pc.
299x706 1pc.
405x706 1pc.
715x396 2pcs.
396x796 1pc.
396x546 2pc.

The facades of the upper boxes will be with plug-in glasses.

But with furniture facades for small drawers - flew a bit. Toli where in the order I did not indicate, some who took the order, or at the factory - somewhere, someone invaded everything. As a result, that's what I got

On the lower facade there were two horizontal milling. And it was necessary to do the ODU on the lower facade at the bottom, one on the top facade - at the top. The first major coast of the project - now I will know to the future.

Cutting plates chipboard

Cutting chipboard ordered where I bought the chipboard itself.

DSP size laminated - 2440x1830

Here is an exemplary cut. Check.

I must say, we bated this time terrible. We will hide and mill :)

In addition to blanks with large chips, such instances came across.

It happens that or does not finish the part or will not drink the same size, or sip with the wrong direction of texture. Therefore, when he brought home chipboard, checked the size of every detail, glued to each piece of paper tape and wrote the size of the part on it. That's like this.

This then helps faster find the desired detail.

Scotch I try to glue the part to the part, where the smallest number of chips. This will then help correctly install the item in the product, to hide from the eyes of the chip. Although it is not strictly - all the same when installing the item Ten times you twist choose the best half.

Cromaging

The next stage of the manufacture of our kitchen is the shape - the processing of the ends of the finished parts by the edge of PVC.

I always glue the edge all the details, and then I start assembling. I smack the work into several stages. This makes it possible to prepare more convenient for a specific stage and minimize the amount of tool and material in the workplace. It is more practical and more convenient, especially if the whole process of manufacturing furniture occurs in a small kitchen - like me :).

I always stick the edge all the ends of every detail. To whom lazy or consider it excess - only visible ends can be placed in the edge (you do in all firms manufacturing companies). I process all the ends without exception, as it minimizes evaporation harmful to health formaldehyde resins. Secondly - you never know where water can appear. There was a case with a hidden champagne bottle. She decided to open itself in the closet. After that, I had to change 2 shelves, as they all swollen from moisture. I do not know would save the regiment from such a fate edge - I think that yes. Therefore, I recommend everyone when ordering furniture - insist on the shaft of all the ends. Yes - it is more expensive. But health is more expensive - although this is a matter of person personally.

What I use for the shafts of the ends of the details from the chipboard in the manufacture of furniture ... ..

Let's start in order:

Iron. Preferably without any coatings, with a flat, solid sole and light. We will have to work a lot on weight. I have an old (about 8-9 years old there is definitely to him) Philips brand iron - well, very light. I have not met anything easier. The only minus is the Teflon coating. True, after a few years of the shaon of them - the coatings almost left :)

A sheet of ordinary, white, clean paper. Through it, I stroke the edge. So that someone else wrote about paper - did not see. But I use. It seems to me so hard to overlay the edge - smooth heating, does not scratch the edge and not dumping (after all, I have a Teflon on the sole :))

Two clamps and smooth guide. In my case - Tabletop trim. Guide presses to the table with clamps. When sticking the edge, I will rest in this guide. This makes it possible to free your left hand. I am aiming the edge when sticking and sticking a sheet of paper.
The bay of the edge with the applied glue. I put on a clamp screw. It is very convenient to unwind and does not fall anywhere.
Stationery knife with a wide blade and a large and comfortable handle. They can carry out all edge sample operations. But I use it only for trimming end overhead edges.
Comfortable longitudinal double-sided edge of the firm of the company Wegoma. The tool is pleasant but not indispensable. The usual stationery knife can perform all his work and makes it no worse, although longer.

Well, the leading process itself

I put the item on the table and rest in the guide. I pull along the entire end to the edge and slightly fix it at the beginning of the end of the iron touch. I do not thank the edge at one edge, but I give skes evenly on both sides.

After that I impose a sheet of paper and start stroking the whole end through it. Gray along the entire length evenly. I do not stop, otherwise the edge is quickly overheated and swollen with bubbles. Without paper, this happens much faster. The process control over the state of glue on the outlet of the edge. I try to catch the moment when the glue begins to flow, but not yet bubble.

When along the entire length of the end (of course, if the item is small) glue in such a state, I raise the spacing of the iron and the heel soles spend with pressure along the entire length of the part. It is necessary to follow, so that the heel touches all over the end, and not only one of the edges. At the same time, the edge is very tight pressed to the chipboard, which means it is well glued.

While the glue is not completely frozen, I turn the part and put the end with the glued edge on the table. I pressed on the item from above and slightly shaking it. Pressing and swaying the part on a flat surface is achieved good adjacent edge on the sink lines. In addition, there is a heat removal from the edge (glue) to the table. Adhesive fastest fastest. It is necessary to cut the edge only after it is frozen glue.

In this position, I immediately form the end skes of the edges by the stationery knife.

Do not cut anything, tormenting the edge. You only need to install the blade and press it stronger. I usually do it, putting the strip of fiberboard polished side up.

It remains to take advantage of the longitudinal coat of wegoma. Cut at once from two sides, I did not adapt. Therefore, cutting with one side at a time. Fortunately detachable detachable. To achieve the best result, I first cut a slight edge a little from one end (otherwise there are chips and brooms at exit), and then lead the cutter from the opposite end. This is how the process occurs - easily and without tension. Random laminate sections with this method are excluded (but when "grinding" the stationery knife is).

After that, you can put it in the assembly, the details that will be attached in places where access to the seashed edges will be limited, i.e. The probability to hook the edge is minimal. Although I still advise you to walk with a cloth, to remove the glue. Here is a photo of the edge after trimming. Do not be afraid, white is not chips - this is glue.

But we strive to ideal. Therefore, we go through the shallow eye shook wound on the bar. I wipe the excess glue. And get such an end !!

For example, trimming the edge using a conventional stationery knife.

I put a sheet of paper and put forward to the entire blade of the stationery knife. I press the left hand of the knife, right hold the knife knob. It is important that the piece of paper lay in a dense to the brake edge. Then hand lying on a sheet of paper and pressing a knife with a knife - pulling a sheet of paper on yourself. It turns out that the knife lies on a sheet of paper, and the paper slides along the edge. In this case, the knife breaks to the Laminate of the chipboard and its scratch.

There is no left hand on this photo - she holds a camera. In general, it must press the nodge's spout and pull the paper sheet along the edge.

Here you can not really try and do not worry if the edge cuts into the waves. The main thing is to not remove the laminate. In the photo below, it was specially chosen a plot of worse - after trimming the furniture edge with a knife.

Next, clean the sheet of paper, put the knife straight to the laminate and cut the residues of the edge. The remnants of the edge are small - more often it is the thickness of the paper, the poet they do not create such resistance when cutting, so that the knife crashed into the laminate. Therefore, putting a knife with the whole line of the island to laminate, cut off the remnants.

It is also desirable to press the knife's sprinkle - just I have a camera in my left hand.

We go through the ace on Broke, holding it under 45 degrees (we make a fake), we wash the ribs of the remnants of the glue and get such an end.

Assembly

Well, now about the assembly ...

Here in general and tell me especially I do not know what.

When assembling, I use corner clamps.

I climb the fastened parts from above and below. Laying sheets of paper, otherwise it is a great probability to form a laminate or tear the edge.

I look at the pencil first, and then the drill on a tree (nail) the place of drilling. I kill and do not understand by screwing the Jews.

When choosing a place of drilling, followed by the following rule. From the edge, departing 60 mm. If the length of the connection is more than 400 mm - I put 3 Evrogin. Although it is necessary to look at the place of course.

For severity under the EuroBrints, I use a special drill with a cutter. Very convenient - at once all 3 diameters.

Under the cups of loops for the facades, drill a special cutter with an emphasis. The emphasis does not allow to fly deeper than that the cups of loops require. Very comfortable thing. Prior to that, I had to look for the drills of the phostoin and carry out the guide spike to a minimum. To monitor the depth of the depth. Now everything is much easier and faster - I recommend it.

I'll tell you how the suspended boxes did on the example of the largest. With dryer for dishes. Low cabinet. The dryer for mugs and plates could not stick - little height. I decided to divide into two departments. In one dryer for mugs, another - plates. Bought a long dryer for 800 mm. Then cut under the size of the departments. The separation wall hangs on the lid - it does not reach Niza. Therefore, put the standard pallet from the dryer at 800mm.

In general, everything is clear with the assembly. Bottom and lid contributions. Fix the parts with the help of corner clamps from above and below. We deplorable and twist with Eurovints. When the frame will be assembled, screw the rear wall (rear) from the fiberboard. In the store, the rear walls are increasingly navigating, or even just shoot the stapler. I still prefer to fasten. Clean thin screws with a length of 20 mm in 80-100mm increments. You can use the usual fiberboard, not laminated. But it is strongly visible spots that appear from moisture and fat. Therefore, I advise you still laminated DVP - it is possible to wash it.

It is worth staying on the installation of loops - frogs. I set the usual overhead loops Boyard. Same cheap, what were there. In general, they work normally - well, over time - let's see.

From the edge center for the loop cup, I mark 21-22 mm. I try to withstand 21.5mm. In the height of the drawer from the top and from Niza, the center of the box is scheduled for 80-100mm. It is necessary to watch it. Look carefully so as not to drill in the venue of the milling !!! I have a milling facade of the milling facade from the edge. Therefore, I moved a loop to 110mm.

After the loop is drilled under the loop cup, I set the loop, put a metal corner, align one of his side along the edge of the facade, and the other side of the corner sets the loop to the desired position. Introducing holes for the screws. After that, I kill the non-cut holes and screw the loop. So as not to drill the facade through I use one very simple reception. I take the drill and wind at the desired height strip of paper scotch. Now it is very convenient to control the depth of drilling.

A special metal corner was chosen as a suspension. The closet is fastened to a bolt through a large washer. Adjusts adjustment and easy to mount to the wall.

Now I'll show you how I install the facade with screwed loops on the closet.

I open a loop, we translate the support platforms into the middle position and put the facade on the desired surface of the cabinet. I swing the facade and catch the moment when the loop platforms lay down completely on the closet surface. Only in this position we note the place of drilling under the fastening of the loop platform.

Do not mark when the nose or heel of the loop platform is raised above the chipboard (as in the photo below). In this case, the likelihood is not possible that it will not be able to adjust the loop at all - it does not have enough adjustment limits.

It remains to sew and fasten the facades. After that, it is necessary to adjust the loops so that everywhere there were the same gaps and the facade lay clearly around the perimeter of the cabinet.

Kitchen sink.

In the manufacture of kitchen sink there are several nuances. Initially - here are the pictures of the collected washing. True door handles are not yet installed.

The countertop in the depth of the cabinet should be selected (cut off) so that the kipplesampler went out for the facades. The kapellable is a special groove of water-repellent material or a shallow groove, which are located on the bottom front side of the table top. If you get to the tabletop of water, the kippler does not give her to fly inside the kitchen cabinets, forcing water to fall on the floor, bypassing the facade piece of the kitchen.

In general, on the packaging of stainless kitchen miles there is already a template for marking. But 2 last washing that I installed, went with the wrong templates. Therefore, I advise you to check the template first. Cut it and just try to wear it on a stainless kitchen sink. On my first template was 1 cm less than you need on all parties. In the second side lacked 1 cm.

Now - as I passed the sink in the worktop. At first I trained the borders of the free square on the table top. Those. On the left and right lines at a distance of 16 mm from the edge are the sidewalls. Rear 2mm (stiffery stiffeness 16 mm + 5 mm - canopy over the wall from the fiberboard). Front, ranging from the railway line - 34 mm (16mm - the facades + 16 mm stiffery bar + 2 mm - the gap between the facade and the sidewall). Now there is a rectangle on the table tops, in which you need to enter a wash. I measured the washing and the resulting rectangle. I needed to be washing in the center. Therefore, put the sink on the table top, leaving the same distances from all sides of the washing to the rectangle received on the table top and lined with a pencil on the tabletop, washing. Then he retreated from the resulting circuit 15mm inside and drawn another contour just from hand. On this line and sawed by an electrolybik. To introduce the pubsik pink, I first drilled through a hole of a 10mm drill. In him put the Pillet Electrolovka and then went on the markup. It turned out that when installing washing, it covers a tabletop by 15 mm.

After drinking, it is necessary to take the countertop to protect against water. External ends pasted with a wide furniture edge. The resulting inner cut and the lower plane of the table tops are not sparing, rubbing well, transparent sealant.

Before installing the sink, it is necessary to fix the worktop to the cabinet itself. Since the washing is big - I had to wise. In the corners screwed metal corners - the photo below.

In the middle of the sidewalls and rigidity planks set cropped corners. In the place of bend drilled the hole and screwed the screw at 45 degrees in the worktop.

After that I installed the sink and pulled it with regular fasteners. Need to follow the screw screws. In some places at a certain coal of spinning, the screw with full twist may move into the stainless steel and squeeze it.

I put a coming sink compaction. It is on a self-adhesive basis. Proves along the edge of the washing. Maybe I could not - but I could not pull over the entire surface without a clearance. The gaps are minimal - the nail will not climb. But the hole is a hole. Therefore, everything was unscrewed, additionally delivered the washing throughout the perimeter, in front of the braced regular seal, the strip of transparent sealant. In general, some masters throw out a regular seal and set the sink only on the sealant. They squeeze the sealant "sausage" on the edges of the sink, turn over and attract. At the same time there are no gaps, the sink is well adjacent, and it is also well sealed with silicone sealant, which can be antiseptic.

Additionally, the side ends of the countertop closed the polished plank. It is screwed with screws. Before installing it, I missed the silicone sealant. This plank prevents the descent of table tops from the likely side shocks and additionally protects against water.

Desktop with drawers

Now I will tell you how I made the next piece of furniture for my kitchen. This is a desktop with drawers. To begin with - photos of my kitchen desktop - the end result.

And the sink and the desktop are installed on adjustable supports 100mm. It is mounted at the front of the ground clips to them.

For small drawers applied ball guides Boyard with a carrying capacity of up to 25 kg. For large roll-out boxes used wide ball guides of the same firm, with a carrying capacity of up to 45 kg.

What other features when building a desktop - no. The table top is screwed through the planks of screws. Subtleties only in the installation of facades.

Fucked facades with screws. 2 screws on the facade. At first pasted small pieces of bilateral tape on the box. Then carefully brought the facade, holding the knob for a pre-attached handle. Top and on the side substituted pieces of fiberboard (for installation with the same gaps). Pressed. After that, the facade turns out to be quite well fixed. Installed all the facades. If I crawled it - boldly pierced the facade and glued again - very convenient. When the location of the facades fully satisfied me, he climbed the thin drill and screwed the screws. That's all the trick.

That's what happened in the end

COST COST COST - Cost

Position	Price, rub
2 sheet chipboard laminated 1.83х2,44 16mm
Cutting DSP
Adhesive
Facades
Fiberboard - 1 sheet
Pens
Glasses
Elevators (6pcs), guides (13 pcs.), suspensions (6 pcs.), supports (12 pcs.), loop-frogs (10pcs.), Stacks of table top (4pcs.), Eurovints, screws, glass holders (18 pcs.), Wide edge for countertops (5 m), washers for suspensions (6 pcs.), Metal corners (6pcs),
Washing
Drainer
Total	11580,72
A small amount of screws, evrohns, silicone sealant, double-sided scotch, plugs, was already not bought. Plus consumables: Pilking for the jigsaw, the skin, drill for the European innovints (the cutter is fastened quickly). Therefore, the real costs are a bit, rubles for 300-400, more.

Today the kitchen is the place where the whole family is most common. For a long time, there were those times for a long time when the entire population of the apartment was going to the living room in front of the TV. The fact is that it is now more convenient to find all movies and programs to your liking on computers or tablets. Nevertheless, a common breakfast, dinner, and just the evening gatherings with tea remained, that is, the importance of this room is impossible. Naturally, all of the above does not apply to those people, in whose apartments there is a separate dining room. In addition, cooking and storage of all utensils are also very important, and in this regard cannot be neglected convenience and comfort.

How to make the kitchen with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Now we will not disassemble the situation when the room intended for the kitchen is generally not prepared for this purpose - that is, there are no pipes, electricity and other things.

It will be best to take the reality room with which you can work. It has already built walls, the floor covering was laid, the ceiling was made and communications were carried out.

Planning

First of all, on paper, you should draw the room plan. First, a general is created, since it will be necessary to measure the height and width of the walls, any simpleness, gaps of the windowsill and other (the latter, by the way, can be subsequently used as part of the table top). In addition to the above, household communications should also be included in the plan. You should specify where there is a wiring where the gas pipe is coming out, as well as note the water supply line and other.

But before wondering how to make the kitchen with your own hands, you need to decide on its shape. It can be linear, that is, built along one wall, M-shaped or angular, or P-shaped. The last species is usually chosen when the kitchen highlighted a room with a separate entrance.

Already, decide where you will store dishes, where to put the fridge, where they place the work surfaces, plate, sink, and also how lockers will stand. Naturally, the slab must be placed closer to the gas pipe, a refrigerator or an electric stove - to outlets, and the sink is closer to the water supply. It is logical, so you can avoid unnecessary costs.

Drawing of the future kitchen

Here you need to display all products that will be used. That is, each bedside table, locker and sink should be drawn. Dimensions also need to be stailed - it allows you to avoid confusion. Particular attention should be paid to the height of the tabletop. It is determined by the growth of the person who will most often work in the kitchen. You also need to correlate the sizes of future bedside tables, boxes, tables and stoves with a worktop.

It should be displayed in the drawing, from which materials there will be future furniture items, not only their facades, but also frameworks. Again, the countertop need to pay special attention. Then, separately, choose household appliances.

There is a way to facilitate your choice. It will come in handy, because on a two-dimensional drawing it is not always possible to determine how those or other devices, surfaces and so on will look. Therefore, you can use fashionable magazines, or ask familiar whose existing design options you like how to make the kitchen with your own hands. Photos from magazines will help you deal with many difficulties. Suitable design is accurate. In addition, today there is a sufficient number of programs, working with which, you can create a volumetric, even interactive, drawing of the kitchen. Special skills are not required here (if you have enough adult children who disassembled in computers, instruct it. Thus, it will be possible to save time and give children to understand what they trust them).

Furniture manufacturing materials

How to make a kitchen with your own hands so that it turns out a durable, comfortable and high-quality? In fact, nothing complicated here. The easiest way will be with cabinets, which, in fact, you need to do yourself.

The sidewalls are best made from 16-mm MDF - it is suitable for both lockers and shelves or a tumb. The side walls of the boxes can be made from the half-channel Fiberboard. The main thing is to purchase a laminated version. The rear walls can be performed from plywood - they are the most unused, and indeed remain almost invisible. In addition, if any problems occur, they are easy to remove or replace. Doors, if you do not have good experience, it is better to buy separately - they are sold in construction supermarkets, and therefore it will not be a special problem (and it is better to pick up the doors first, and then make cabinets, instead of customized all at the last moment).

Separate question - countertop. It is also best to purchase it separately. There will be a natural stone or close to the composition and properties of the material. If you want to do it yourself, you can use a thick chipboard, approximately three centimeters (but better a little more). Before installing, you need to cover it with several layers of protective agents so that the tree does not damage due to excess moisture.

In addition, you will need any fittings - the list is quite long. Here and the Eurovints, and hinges with handles, balls or roller guides, legs for cabinets, edges, as well as poders, and, of course, corners. The most important thing here is not to forget to buy something. It's all the little things, but they can become defining on how to make a cozy kitchen with their own hands.

More importantly, only the acquisition of household appliances is here - to make a washing or slab on your own, with a little people, and therefore they must be bought separately. It is better to start choosing immediately, since the size of the same slabs must coincide with the rest of the working surfaces, otherwise it will look pretty funny.

Required tools

These tools will be needed not only to those who are going to make the whole room from beginning to end on their own, but also people who annoy small defects and other troubles. How to make repairs in the kitchen with your own hands? This question is found much more often than the above. But "Assistants" you need here are quite different - from the power tools this drill and a surnupture, as well as an electrolybiz (the latter - for those who will cut the purchased tree itself). In addition, you will need a roulette, pencil, construction level and a square. The construction knife will also be unnecessary, wood hacksaw, as well as sandpaper. In addition, there is still an important point in the form of screwdrivers and spanners - doors, as well as some other details must be carefully screwed to the walls or semi.

How to make an angular kitchen with your own hands?

In fact, the action plan, which is described above, is suitable for an angular kitchen. But they are spread more linear simply because for small spaces it is the only way to build a comfortable and large working surface.

Differences begin exactly where you thought - in the corner. It is this place that will have to think more carefully than the others, simply because if you do just a straight angle, most of the working surface will be unavailable. So you have to rolling and work on these places longer, making a smooth transition from one surface to another. In addition, it should be done in the same way with hinged, as well as with outdoor cabinets.

Summer kitchen

Naturally, in the country, she will be a little different from its city analogues, but not so much that the work plan becomes completely different. So the usual country cuisine will be almost the same as that that stands in your apartment, and therefore you just need to follow the plan described above. But the summer room is something completely different.

So how to make the kitchen in the country do it yourself? It is usually distinguished by the lack of walls, as well as what stands right in the yard, on the plot. There is not hot, and therefore such a design is ideal for a period of time from the end of spring and until the middle of the autumn. Naturally, both building and layout will differ significantly.

The first difference here is the foundation. It must be reliable enough to withstand weight not only design, but also all people. Sometimes this quantity can reach a dozen or even a dozen, which together has a considerable weight. Therefore, the foundation is better to do from stone. The construction itself is erected from the tree - it is easy and when processing protective compositions can withstand both weather and climatic conditions and working features like heat and abundance of moisture.

Walls, even if they are erected, closed the kitchen not from all sides - usually from three. In addition, they are solid somewhere before the middle (this is done to cover the furniture), and then you can already equip the wooden grid or use the columns, leaving the open space. From above, a duplex light roof is usually fitted with appropriate supplements in the form of water and other effluents.

With furniture here, too, it is not necessary to do places for storage of utensils. So everything will consist of a working surface, a plate (more often electric), a mangala, which can be removable, as well as in extravagant versions, furnaces. In addition, if the summer room is large enough, it can also perform the functions of the arbor and the external veranda.

For kids

How to make children's cuisine with your own hands? In fact, it is difficult to realize the relationship between the real and children's cuisine. Nevertheless, it is. Children are developing, and therefore they have new interests. If you want to attract them to cooking in the future, it will be wisply to give them children's cuisine. In addition, such a toy will take them for a while.

So, such kitchens are on sale, but with their own hands it is best to make them from an old chest or a large class. Doors need to be removed here. Everything else depends on your imagination and ingenuity.

For example, you can make something resembling a reduced version of the kitchen. That is, take as the fact that the presence of a large chest. The doors have already been removed, and all the shelves are removed - you can proceed to work. It is necessary to put one central shelf somewhere at a height of a third of the general height of the chest. On the right will be plane - you will need to make curly switches, similarity of the burners, the door for the oven, and so on. Left we have the sink. Between them remains the surface where you can make a locker. All this is painted, decorated and driven into a divine appearance. If you have a daughter, and you wonder how to make a kitchen for dolls with your own hands, then the same plan will fit. Only in the reduced version, naturally.

Hood

Well, in this matter you need to understand that it is quite difficult to make an extract yourself - here we need certain special skills that most of us have no one. Therefore, an exhaust installation option will be considered. It is not so easy - the main part is located above the slab, and it is it that works, pulling the air. The air duct itself is usually done from corrugation in the form of a pipe. It is he who removes the air to the street through the ventilation done in the outer wall.

If you still worry the question of how to make a hood in the kitchen with your own hands, then you will need the same corrugated pipe and several fans. In addition, it will be necessary to carefully cut holes for the pipe, because everything should be tightly.

Ceiling

How to make a ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands? Before switching to work on it, it will be necessary to determine quite a long time with what type is best to choose. It is not easy because there is simply no ideal option. The problem here is that humidity and temperature in the kitchen fluctuate in a rather wide range. In addition, it is necessary to take into account as much as easily the ceiling will be laundered - at least several times splashes and there. Yes, I also need a material that minimally absorbs odors.

The first option here is plaster. It is possible to do with a pair of workers hands. Wash the plaster can be quite often, it does not burn. True, when flooding such a ceiling, you will not protect you at all: at best, it will be stains, and in the worst - the falling parts of the finish. Next comes the suspended ceiling. Here you need to remember that the wooden doom is not suitable. If you use a cassette structure, then moisture and temperature can not be afraid. In addition, you can install convenient lighting. There are also disadvantages - there will be nothing to die from such a ceiling. But the undoubted plus here in a light replacement, so the question of how to make repairs in the kitchen with your own hands, will not arise at all. It will only be necessary to purchase several panels and put into place spoiled. Latest view - stretch ceilings. This is a very good option - they do not burn, but only melted, which increases fire safety. In addition, such ceilings will protect you from flooding - if it is not very large. This can be considered a closed question about how to make the kitchen repair with your own hands. The photo presented in the article will help you deal with this issue.

Conclusion

In general, you have already had to understand what is really realistic to make the kitchen, let it be very simple. The emerging issues can be solved with our article.

The most important thing when repairing the kitchen is careful planning. This avoids multiple problems and resolve the question of how to make the kitchen with their own hands.

The question of the independent manufacture of a kitchen headset often occurs after repair in this room. It often happens that it seems to be suitable for the cost and decoration, the kit does not fit into the real sizes of the kitchen. Very much in our time of proposals for the manufacture of headcards to order, but the cost is very considerable. Evaluating the prices for furniture, as well as their financial capabilities, some owners come to the conclusion that you can save a decent amount if you build a kitchen (here and then it is in mind that its furniture filling) on \u200b\u200btheir own.

If there are at least minimal experience in working with carpentry tools, in the processing of wood-based materials, then the desired design of the desired design itself is a completely realistic task. With your own hands, it can be collected from the finished parts made by the workshop on a specific drawing, or made "from scratch" from natural wood and furniture panels of various types.

Why better make the kitchen independently?

Objective reasons to independently make the kitchen on their own sketches and drawings are concluded in the following moments:

The possibility of creating furniture cabinets and shelves, ideally suitable for a particular room by its parameters and configurations. In addition, creating a sketch of the kitchen, you can immediately determine the convenient location of all kitchen accessories, the number and shape of furniture items.

A lot of savings are achieved, since the finished headsets will cost much more expensive, although it can be made of the same material that can be selected independently. Everything is explained - in addition to the material, it is necessary to pay for the work of masters, transportation costs, a whole list of all other taxes and deductions known only to accountants. All this is included in one degree or another on the vacation value of the kit.
The exclusivity of the design of the furniture kit is ensured.
There will be probably an exaggeration to argue that for the majority of this owners (we will not take into account the pathological lazy people) such an independent manufacture of furniture becomes a very exciting occupation, the ability to show their skills and creativity. Well, the finished kitchen atmosphere, performed by itself - is an immutable subject of pride.

As you can see, the reasons for the manufacture of a kitchen headset with their own hands - quite enough. Well, their totality should and in general dispel all doubts. Naturally, if the owner is not a perfect cornfang in these issues.

Creating a project of a future kitchen

First step - sketch

Start creating a kitchen headset follows from a project that is best done in the form of a sketch, and then - and an accurate drawing. A sketch will help visually imagine how the kitchen will look, and the drawing with the samples removed from the location of it will become a guide to both when ordering a material for further work and for the assembly of parts into a single design.

The sketch takes into account the features of the kitchen room and the possibility of placing furniture in it. If a project is being developed for a standard kitchen of a multi-storey building, then the most popular options are or a kitchen wall installed in one line.

Conduct measurements and accounting of design features

In order to comply with all the necessary requirements when creating a project, careful measurements of the kitchen installation zone should be made. When they are taken, the following premises parameters take into account:

Length and height of walls, along which it is planned to install a kitchen set.
Wall length from the front door to the angle of the room.
Distance from window opening to the wall.
During measurements, it is necessary to separately designate, at what distance from adjacent walls there are communication - pipes of sewage and water pipeline, as well as a gas highway.

Knowing, these parameters, you can move to the definition of the size of furniture cabinets, which must and fit into the allotted zone, and be convenient during operation.

Example of a sketch-project corner kitchen with populated sizes

The following parameters are standard for the kitchen headset:

For floor cabinets:

- height - 850 mm;

- the depth may vary from 500 to 600 mm;

- Width - from 300 to 800 mm.

Mounted cabinets can be somewhat in size, since their parameters depend on the height of the ceiling and the preferences of the kitchen owners:

- Their standard high is 850 mm, but it can be increased to 900 mm if it is planned to raise them under the ceiling, or reduced to 800 ÷ 700 mm;

- depth of cabinets - 300 mm;

- Width, as a rule, corresponds to the width of the floor Tumb, planned under mounted cabinets - so they look more beautiful in one "ensemble". Although this requirement is optional.

In addition, when drawing up the drawing, the following factors must be taken into account:

The location and size of the sink, as well as the fact that it will have to provide a separate tube or table top.
On the wallpaper, the sinks should be the cabinets (free areas of table tops), having a width of at least 300 mm. Their surface will add comfort when operating washing, and the couch themselves will serve for storing kitchenware. In addition, one of the Tumba can be used to install a washing or dishwasher.
The top of the headset should include at least two sections.
Above the hob need to be provided for a place for.
When drawing up a plan, it is also necessary to immediately designate the location of the refrigerator if it is installed in one of the headset lines.

The optimal distance between the sink and stove

It is very important to observe the distance between the sink and the hob, since it should be at least 450 ÷ 500 mm according to standards.

The distance between the cooking surface and the extract should be 750 mm for gas and 650 mm for the electric stove. It will provide a good removal of rising vapors, and proper safety of operation.

The sketch of the kitchen can be painted on a sheet into a cell that will help comply with the proportion of real size zone of the placement of the headset. More "advanced" option - use one of the computer programs of 3D modeling, for example, "Pro 100". In the latter case, it will be possible to take into account every millimeter of the reserved area.

On the network you can find a lot of interesting applications, allowing and planning furniture accommodation, and get ready-made drawings of each of the details.

If the sketch is made manually, it is additionally necessary to make furniture drawings. In these graphics documents, the exact dimensions of the structure are affixed, since all its components will be manufactured.

In the event that the drawing is drawn by an impracticable task, it is possible to use one of the options presented on the Internet. Surely, if you wish, you can find options for both typical kitchens of the main series of high-rise buildings and for non-standard kitchen premises.

Choosing a specific project, it is necessary to immediately take into account its capabilities of manufacturing individual structural elements. For example, shelves that have curvilinear forms, as this will require not only a special tool, but also sufficient skills to work with it.

Card cutting chipboard

Based on the drawing of the drawing, it is necessary to make a card cutting a chipboard. It will help to determine the amount of necessary material, reflect the distribution on the sheets of all the workpieces required for the headset.

To create this graphics document, you need to know the standard parameters of the chipboard slabs, which will be projected by the parts of the kitchen headset.

Today, the chipboard plates with a polished and laminated surface, having different thicknesses and linear dimensions.

Example map of cutting chipboard sheet under the size of furniture blanks

DSP plates can have a standard thickness of 8,10,12,16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 32 and 38 mm. For walls and shelves of the floor part of the headset, the material is most often selected with a thickness of 16 ÷ 20 mm, and DSP is suitable for mounted cabinets. If you wish, you can choose a greater thickness of the sheets.

Chipboard sheets of various thickness

The linear dimensions of grinding plates usually constitute 2440 × 1830 or 2750 × 1830 mm, and laminated material - 2800 × 2070 and 2620 × 1830 mm. Plate parameters are designed for standard furniture blanks, so you can choose options that will be revealed with a minimum amount of waste.

Sample tabletop from laminated chipboard for desktop

The table top for the working area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen is purchased separately. The choice of consumer provides different models for external design options and thickness. The recommended thickness is 38 mm, especially on the plot where the ripping of the cooking surface or washing is planned. However, judging by the reviews and masters, and the owners of the kitchens, then cheaper quality countertops with a thickness of 28 mm quite successfully serve for years, without requiring any replacement.

But to make a decision (in a rustling of rampant savings) to make a tabletop simply from a regular chipboard sheet, even if it does not plan to be much loaded, irresponsibly. Features of the operation of this site requires a special wear-resistant coating and a special configuration of the front edge that does not allow the accumulation of moisture from droplets flowing from the table. A qualitatively manufactured fully closed from all sides, and it remains unprotected only the end sections, which should also receive the necessary processing, but already when assembling furniture.

The drawing of the carding cards can be compiled independently or apply a computer program for this purpose. Many companies engaged in the implementation of the furniture chipboard (MDF) provide a free service for compiling such cards, on the basis of which is then cleaned.

Both attachments and floor cabinets may have separate or common walls, depending on how they are located in the headset.

The bottom, installed on the floor part of the headset, the common walls are most often used that share cabinets for departments. Thus, this part after the billets becomes non-separable. However, if it is planned to maintain the ability to perform the permutation of kitchen furniture, then each cabinet should be collected separately. But in this case, it is clear, the cost of material for the workpieces will increase.

So, in the map Cutting chipboard or MDF, according to the designed drawing and size of the design details, the following parts of the structure should be placed:

Side walls headset.
Separating walls that delimit the total outdoor and attachment on separate cabinets.
Billets for shelves.
Rear walls. They are best made from a lighter material - it can be fiberboard or thin 3 ÷ 4 mm plywood.
Facade doors.

On the map, the cutting is best to put it, except for the size of the parts, their numbering or name. So it will be easier to navigate when cutting plates and when assembling.

The countertop is selected separately. Its length should correspond to the length of the outdoor part of the headset, as the cooking plate and sink are usually crashed into its surface, and the washing and dishwasher is installed under it.

In addition to furniture blanks, you need to purchase the following details for assembling the design:

The edge of the corresponding chipboard color, which is drawn up the front ends of the walls and the shelves of the headset before its assembly.
Furniture elements: loops and handles.
Masking plank for the shock of two parts of the table top and end linings.
For drawers, it will take uses (retractable mechanisms).

Furniture metal fasteners and wooden sewage.
Metal or plastic corners for fixing perpendicularly located parts.
Adjustable legs with which it will be possible to set the floor part of the headset strictly horizontally.

If you plan to make doors opening in a special way, for example, uplifting up or folding, they will need special mechanisms - there is no shortage of such products in our time.

Now, knowing which details and materials will be necessary for the manufacture and assembly of the kitchen headset, you can go to a specialized store of furniture materials, where you can usually order a cutting board on the cutting map presented. If desired and the presence of a special tool, cutting and processing edges can be made independently. But it also needs to be able to have a corresponding high-quality tool. That is, it is better not to risk and entrust this process to professionals working on high-precision equipment.

Installation-assembly operations

Tools for work

To build blanks to a single design, instruments will be required, some of them are in every home, others will have to buy. But they will subsequently be useful for other repairs or construction work.

So, from the tools you need to prepare:

Electric drill and a set of wood drills, including confirmable under furniture screws.
Bits of different sizes for the screwdriver, including hexagons.
Construction solo.
Level.
Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
Pliers and hammer.
Scissors.
Pistol-syringe for applying glue "Liquid nails" and sealant.
Iron for sticking edges.

Assembling kitchen headset

The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because the masters who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. When the first actions are made, then the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of "designer", from which it is necessary to collect the kitchen.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	The first thing to be done is to understand the billets, decomposing them in size, focusing on the drawing of the project, on which all the parameters of the headset are also affixed. After the details are distributed on the stacks, they are recommended to sign, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory activities will significantly simplify work.
	After cutting, the ends of the panels overlooking the facade, as well as intended for the door of the cabinets, it is necessary to leave a special edge ribbon, having a color harmonizing with the main tinge of the headset. Fixation of the tape is made using a preheated iron. When the tape is heated, it must be somewhat on the edges of the panel. After cooling the material, this surplus is required immediately cut off with a sharp knife. For this purpose, an ordinary stationery knife with a new blade is suitable.
	The process begins with the assembly of the outdoor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the design, and immediately fasten the adjustable legs on them if they are provided by the project. To do this, the panels are marked by installing such supports. Then the legs are applied to the outlined points, and through the holes provided for fasteners, points are noted on the pencil pane. Next, they drill uncork holes for fasteners. The legs are best to put on glue, and then additionally fasten with self-draws. The fastening of the legs can occur differently - this depends on the selected part model. The legs should be fixed to all lower panels.
	The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. So that they get at right angle to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal with a thickness of 2 mm, so the compound must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to first check these corners - how perpendicular to their shelves. You can come up with a different "conductor", which will help to set two pair-panels exactly at right angles. Corners are fixed on top and bottom at the junction of panels using clamps.
	Then, the fastened walls must be twisted with the screws for which hole-jacks are drilled using the Komfirm drill. The drill is calculated on the formation of the hole, which has various diameters needed at different levels necessary for this Evrovint. Thanks to this configuration of the nest, the screw will hold the two panels tightly, and its hat will enter the chipboard flush with the surface of the wall. You can certainly apply conventional drills, but you have to constantly rearrange them, and work will go much slower. And the special drill is not so expensive, especially since his work in the assembly, the headset will be abused.
	The panels must be copped at three points, drill the nest with an indentation from the upper and lower edges of 50 mm, as well as in the middle of the stocking blanks. To accurately outline the location of the opening, 8 mm should be retreat from the side edge, with a chipboard of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw the furniture screw to the screwdriver, a hex nozzle-bit is installed. Similarly, all chipboard panels are fastened.
	To be clearer, in the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular details of confirmates.
	The bottom panel of the couch is also first fixed with the side walls of the clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws.
	Another way of mutual fixation of the panels can be wooden choppers - dymechats with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in the drilled one and the edge of another nest panel. The specks are neatly clogged into these holes, pre-missed glue. This installation method is more complicated and requires ideally accurate marking of holes for drilling holes.
	In order for the markup to be accurate, after gluing the wigs into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift to the bottom panel, align and tighten with clamps. After the etogon of the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed seasons, mark the points along which holes, diameter and depth, corresponding to the size of the fasteners are drilled. Then, the holes are filled with glue and docking the side wall of the couch. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at a right angle, on them the same as in the first embodiment, it should be fixed with clamps to fix metal corners. It can be removed after drying glue.
	After the walls are fastened with the bottom panel, it is nailed with small cloves, stapler brackets, or fastened to small screws. Rear panel made of fiberboard or thin plywood.
	In the upper part, the side walls are associated with each other two narrow boards, which will give stiffness to the stands and will be the basis for fastening the table top. They are installed on the inside of the walls and also fasten with furniture screws confirm. They will be required 2 pieces for each of the fixed parties.
	If the cabinet holder is assembled, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, their inner surfaces are placed, and retractable mechanisms are installed on them (they can have a different design). It is clear that the installation of these guides on the opposite walls should be strictly symmetric. Of course, this process can be carried out in the already assembled cabinet, but it is inconvenient and difficult to do it - and dark, and closely.
	If the facade doors are planned on the closet, then under the installation of the loop in advance it is necessary to place and equip the landing sockets for them. A special cutter of the desired diameter is used to drill the seating holes. When marking, it is necessary to observe the distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the planting socket - it should be 5 mm.
	So that the loops were installed exactly, and the doors were not overwhelmed, the wall and the door are stacked on a flat surface, and the markup to arrange the landing sockets and the mounting holes is made at them at the same time. The socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, the corresponding part of the loop is installed in it. Then, focusing on it, the places of attachment of the response fastener on the door are placed. Markups drill holes for self-tapping screws. After that, the hinges are screwed, and their work is checked. Next, they can be temporarily dismantled, and installed on an ongoing basis after the cabinet assembly.
	This photo shows the installation of collected Tumb into the overall design. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but a variant is possible when the walls perform the role of partitions in the overall design. However, it must be borne in mind that in the latter case, a higher load will fall on the partition, so there are not recommended a lot of shelves and drawers. The collected design is exhibited by level, if necessary, adjusting the height of the support legs.
	Further, the front doors can be finally fixed on the walls of the Tumb (cabinets). It will be easy to establish them, since the necessary holes are already prepared for their attachment. The door knobs are screwed.
	The next step on exactly exhibited and bonded cabinets is installed in the worktop. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - smooth or diagonal, depending on the planning of the kitchen headset. Prepare and subside the parts of the table top, make marking areas where the sink and the cooking surface will be embedded.
	The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the table top or flush with it. The illustration shows the embodiment of a mortise kitchen sink. The windows markup for it is best done on the pattern, which manufacturers often include with a sink. If there is no cutting circuit, then it should be done independently: put the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and circle its contour with a pencil.
	The opening of the kitchen sink is cut with an electric jig. First, the cross-cutting hole is drilled on the markup line in the table top - it is necessary for the fail to establish a jigsaw. From the external markup line, some masters prefer to fix the greasy scotch, which will prevent the chips of the edge and will be a good guideline during work. In the same way, it is placed and the hole for the cooking panel is cut.
	An important nuance. In the cut-off opening of the sink or cooking panel, the end walls are completely defenseless against the penetration of moisture. And the water leaving the chipboard and penetrating into its structure can cause his swelling and deformation. Therefore, experienced masters strongly recommend to perform another operation. A strip of silicone sealant is applied to the cut ends, and then it is distributed so that the whole slice is densely covered with this composition. After that, it is possible, without waiting for the cooler of the sealant, go to the installation of a washing or a cooking panel.
	Fixing the kitchen sink in the table top window can be produced differently, depending on its model. Most often, such washers are attached to the back of the table top with the help of special adjustable brackets, which are included.
	On the bottom side of the supporting sides of the washing, before it is installed in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply the sealant layer, which will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop, and will prevent the water flow.
	Before the final installation of the countertops, its trimmed ends must be closed with special aluminum linings, precisely repeating the cross-sectional shape of the panel. These linings are left and right. Before installing the lining on the end, a strip of silicone sealant is applied ...
	... which is then distributed over the entire surface to the smooth layer. It is easy to make your finger moistened in the soap solution.
	After that, the pad is set, it is set exactly at the edges and is fixed by self-drawing - for this it provides holes. Everything, the end is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the table top.
	Further, the countertop is installed on the headset assembled outdoor design and is fixed with self-draws from their inner side through the planks-cross, which was discussed above.
	Of course, the countertop always strive to make a solid, that is, consisting of one detail the length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows it. In the straight line, it is best to do without junctions. But if the headset has an angular configuration, you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between individual parts of the countertop closes a specially intended plank for this purpose. Setting the plank - by analogy with the end. But in this case, this connecting part has a few name configuration that docks the root side with a cut-out end.
	It is possible to arrange the edge of the table top, which adjoins the wall in different ways. Some prefer to fraward the working surface with a special plinth, the other side of the strip of the same material from which the tabletop is made (as shown in the illustration). Third and at all as apron are installed fix on the wall a whole panel of the tabletop on the curly edge up, I joking it with a horizontal surface.
	For the installation of wall cabinets, special adjustable suspensions can be used, on which the cabinet can be moved along the metal profile, and also attract it closer to the wall, removing unnecessary clearance between the surfaces.
	To secure the suspensions on the closet, it is necessary to cut for them in its rear wall of the groove-socket. Brackets are inserted into them and are screwed at behind to its side wall.
	The brackets fixed on the closet are inserted into the profile, which is fixed in advance to the dowel to the wall along the entire length of the headset and, naturally, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at one level, and they can be slightly moved, if there is a need for the final installation of the entire headset.
	The assembly of drawers of the table occurs on the same principle as outdoor Tumb and mounted cabinets. The difference is that four wall structures are fasten between each other. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the blanks, that is, on the fastened items, mark their joint their joint, setting one of them to the edge to the edge of the other, and then cut a pencil line.
	Further, in the marked area, a thin drill must be outlined two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the battered line, retreating from the upper and lower edge of the workpiece of 20 ÷ 25 mm. The same process must be made with another detail of the box - it will be anterior and rear walls.
	Further, the parts with drilled holes are pressed to the end of the side walls, and through the drilled holes are fastened with each other furniture self-sufficiency.
	When all four walls of the cabinet are interconnected, the bottom of the design, made of Fiberboard or plywood, is nailed using nails. At the same time, it will be "automatically" the resulting box is aligned strictly in the form of a rectangle. If you plan to store enough heavy kitchen utensils in the box, then the bottom can be screwed up with a 3 × 20 mm with a step of about 50 mm.
	Guides of retractable mechanisms are usually attached along the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other structures of such polozov. In any case, they must be combined with the response parts of the mechanism, fixed on the walls of the cabinet chassis.
	The first is the lowest box. After the operation of the retractable mechanism is verified, the box is removed from the housing for mounting the front panel and handle on it. The width of the facade lining must be equal to the width of the cabinet of the cabinet. First places the location of the handle, then the facade is fixed on the front wall of the drawer using clamps, and through holes are drilled through both panels.
	Next, the inner side of the box drives two holes that should be located at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from the side edges. In the wall of the box, the holes must be through, and in the front panel are deepened by 8 ÷ 10 mm. The diameter of the holes should be 8 mm. Then, glue poured into the hole, and wooden wars are carefully clogged. The last step, to the box with screws from the inside, the handle is screwed, which pulls the wall and the facade among themselves. Clamps are best removed after drying the glue.
	When the bottom box is fully prepared and installed, the same process is made with a box that will be located above it. But the facade panel, understandable, is fixed on it, taking into account the height of the facade of the lower box. In the same way, installation and other retractable parts of the structure are carried out.

* * * * * * *

As can be seen from the description, when assembling blanks into a single headset, you will have to face a fairly large number of small difficult nuances. But at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.

In addition, making the kitchen independently, you can save a family budget to save. To make sure that it is necessary, just for the sake of interest, learning the cost of all necessary for independent work and calculating the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of a ready-made headset.

Learn how to do in a special article on our portal.

As a bonus, we offer to see an interesting video. It shows completely simple, even for the master of the master, the process of independent manufacture of the original kitchen headset, which uses exclusively natural sawn timber.

Video: Kitchen with your own hands - no chipboard, only board and timber

At home.

Furniture for the kitchen can almost any man can do

It is worth determining the materials from which furniture is performed. Tools are prepared in advance, and executed. When planning the design, dimensions are taken into account.

Furniture headsets to design and collect from the finished details to any person who has carpentry skills and knows how to use a screwdriver. Let's find out how to make kitchen furniture.

What tool will need?

Simple furniture with your own hands is performed using special tools. Measuring devices, drills and other tools are prepared.

With the help of a screwdriver, furniture fittings are fastened, and screws are tightened. This tool will save time on the assembly. To twist the confirm, the hex key is used. It is recommended to purchase a reverse screwdriver that is equipped with several nozzles.

Separate drills of different diameter. With the help of sewn, a fear of drilling is performed. For measurements, the kitchen and roulette is selected. Grinding ends of chipboard is performed using sandpaper.

Drilling holes are made using a chipboard. We make furniture yourself with your own hands for the house using a manual milling and electric jigsaw. The rubber cosyan and the stationery knife is selected.

Female instruments - these are standard, which almost everyone has home

Material prepares in advance. MDF is used for the facade. As the basis. Home furniture is made with wood with wood. This material is considered expensive.

What is the project from?

Before making furniture for the house, you need to sketch and drawing. With independent creation of the design, the features of the room are taken into account and high-quality materials are selected.

We will help create a project special programs that are applied even non-professional.

This designer allows planning the appearance of the product and estimate the design.

Making in which the following parameters will be taken into account:

Selection of style option.
Select color, shapes of facades and materials.
Additional elements are selected: decorative parts and countertop.
Placing the dryers, baskets.

Measures of the room for drawing drawing

To measurements, take away with full seriousness

We make the cabinet with your own hands, starting with measurements. The height, depth and width of the product will be determined. Measured levels of walls and flooring. If the corner headset is created, the depth of the angle is intensified.

Distributes of the room and the size of future furniture are applied on the paper sheet, taking into account the manner.

After executing the drawing, the design headset and color palette is selected.

A preliminary drawing will allow you to make a kitchen headset with your own hands.

Features of cutting material

The magnitude of the facade and the size of the main parts are taken into account: covers, bottom and walls.

Circling with wood stove, loops for kitchen furniture are purchased.

You can glue the edge tape on the DSP yourself. To do this, you will need a melamine edge, roller, knife, skin and iron.

First iron heats up, then the edges are processed with sandpaper. Then the sickness is performed. After the iron, the part is pressed with a roller.

The edges of the edge are then cut.

Electrolzik is very simple and pleasant to work with furniture

Selection of facade elements

If you do the furniture yourself, the facades are ordered in special organizations. The value is the value. Facades are offered standard sizes, but can be performed on individual requests.

It is important to pick up the color of the facade structures. Colors are selected that mimic natural wood species.

Fasteners and fittings

Wooden fittings for furniture and fasteners details are selected. The calculation of the details is carried out. As a fastener, you will need self-tapping screws, metal corners, nails and eurovints.

The fittings are selected. When choosing a loop, it is worth considering which way the doors will open. A template for a furniture loop is used. Inside the cabinets provide ventilation and lighting methods.

Aluminum accessories are applied for doors. For fasteners, shelves use corners and special bars.

Must with dowels or nails. Used, which are lifting mechanisms.

Guides with closers differ in high cost.

Here on an amateur, choose what you know

How to collect furniture?

After the preparation of all parts is performed furniture for home with your own hands. The edge is glued on the end parts of the elements. Holes in the case are drilled on the markup. Holes on the facades are carefully formed so that it does not work through holes. The depth of holes depends on the thickness of the material.

Cabinets are assembled on the principle of boxes. The horizontal surfaces are mounted vertical. After assembling the cabinet, it is filled with shelves and drawers.

Using the level, the roller guides and furniture gas lift are screwed.

Then the fastening of the guide shelves is made. The door canvas mounted on the loop.

Make cabinets using door adjustment. Tips on the topic :, recommend installing the facades last. Doors are mounted in the open position. This procedure is made in a pair. One person supports the facade, and the second drills holes. Then the loop is placed on the self-tapping screw.

The process of assembling the installation of outer handles is completed. This produces through holes.

The legs are mounted on the assembled and inverted product.

Assembling furniture should be a neat occupation, the main thing is not to damage the appearance of the headset

Special attention is required by the tabletop and the connection of the parts of the kitchen headset.

Make the furniture with your own hands is not so difficult. The tabletop is mounted after the assembly of the bottom row. This detail is mounted using self-samples. On the surface of the countertops, holes for washing and stove are cut. To do this, marking a pencil.

After installing the lower tier, the upper one is installed. The distance from the countertops to the bottom of the upper cabinet should be at least 600 mm.

What option to choose?

From high quality materials make kitchen furniture. Attention is deserved countertop. This is a functional and decorative element that is performed from various materials.

Operating surfaces from granite are characterized by wear resistance and resistance to hot conditions. This material is not demanding of care. Products are suitable for any interior.
Marble products have a smooth surface on which it is convenient to roll the dough. It is considered one of expensive materials.
Furniture made of artificial stone is distinguished by reliability and hygienicness. The surface is resistant to high humidity. Countertops consist of 90% of quartz and not and pollution. When installing the bayonets are grouped and become inconspicuous.
Standard acrylic countertop thickness - 12 mm. Material is distinguished by durability and low weight. Crackers on this material are easily polished and processed by protecting adhesive composition. This material is combined with plastic, metal and wood.

The table top looks good when it is massive

From stone countertops it is better to use the variants of light shades, as scratches can be seen on a dark table.

Countertops made of artificial stone have many advantages. From this material make, as it is considered environmentally friendly, plastic and durable.

Tree surfaces have an attractive appearance and a flat working surface. From this material, embedded furniture is performed with your own hands. Rights on wood are easily corrected. They are processed by special oils and are cleaned. The trafficphone meter for the kitchen of this material will cost 2000-6000 rubles.

Laminated tabletops are popular. The surface of the product is characterized by resistance to damage. No special care.

Laminated products mimic marble and wooden products.

Countertops from chipboard have the following qualities:

possess moisture resistance;
the composition of formaldehyde does not exceed the permissible level;
the decor is like simple, and is distinguished by the originality;
affordable price, the countertop will cost 500-1000 rubles per stranded meter.

Cakes from concrete are painted, polished and grind. The material includes beautiful pebbles or shells.

Tabletop from concrete to do just at home

Products from ceramic tiles are different design. Such material is not resistant to chips.

Working surfaces made of stainless steel have a smooth surface. These products are used in modern interiors. The advantages include resistance to high temperatures and dirt. Such material is simply cleared. In addition, steel is hygienic and can serve for a long time.

What nuances of the installation of the furniture headset should be known?

Installation of the furniture headset is performed by its own. Knowing the nuances of the installation work, you can make it easier to work.

Before editing, finishing work in the kitchen should be completed. Furniture is installed on a smooth floor, next to dry walls.

The following knowledge will simplify work:

Furniture is mounted with an extreme element. The lower row is installed using a level. The surface must be smooth - it will facilitate the mounting of the table top. The cabinet is attached to euro articles.
The tabletop is attached using self-tapping screws.
After installing the lower row, the upper tier is set.
A canopy is mounted to the back wall, on which cabinets are attached.
If the exhaust is supposed, it is fixed last.

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Each element is marked and stacked next to the installation site. This approach will not get confused and not losing the items.

The use of high-quality materials and special tools will facilitate installation work. The headset made by their own hands will perfectly fit into the interior.