Electric drill for earthworks with their own hands. Electrical equipment for earthworks: the advantages of modern devices. Modern borants - what to choose

I will tell my experience. Elmotor 2kW with gearbox. On the shaft of Dr. Tiese. Tight clay. Two long handles on the motor / gear to keep (as a mustache), each about 90 cm. 1 turnover for 2,3333 seconds.
In short, if it comes across a stone or a large root to hold it impossible. Many relics.

Well, his nafik manual Elbur)

Helpful information. Thank you.

What kind of shine?

Again, what kind of savings? What thickness of steel?

And the same brown what is impossible to do the extension?

Ah, yes, cut off the handles from the essence of the bura tees do not need. Comfortable they. I just welded an adapter from above to the center of the handle ..
Successes ..

You can not cut off the tees of the tees of the bora, if the space allows it to spin in such a radius (this is in case of not with a manual motorhur, but with a frame or how else can be called).

This is a very interesting idea for discussion.
What is the same drive to choose - stationary or light mobile.
Stationary drilling rigs are also hard to hide, even with wheels, even without.
I chose a mobile version.
Firstly, elmotor with the gearbox should be low weight. He must be mobile / dressing on the borough (any).
Secondly, high speeds on the main shaft will wake a driller and it will work in constant fear. Low turns will reduce the risk of worker's winding (wrapped). But too low is not needed - to keep long (the person is still tired).
In third - yes, it's just easier to design and, accordingly, cheaper!

And for money - so you can hire any drillers ..
... make an unnecessary crap.Azart Adnaka. Something suffering this ...

And further. Please hear me. Mobile drilling (when you hold hands) - this is a dangerous thing! I saw on the video as a 2kwn rebuilder with a tees drill did not hold in my hands. Too high speed! And he himself did not have time for rotation. It's not far to injuries! The turnover should be competent!
In short, I'm against the 2kw recurrence to make long handles and drill with comfort. It is dangerous! .. With standard handles, you will release a drill, and then it is that and it. The graph should be a drive-lightweight and comfortable turnover! something like that...

Something I did not understand you - you still for mobile (hold hands for the handle) installation or stationary (installation on the frame)?
I personally, I am for the stationary, because I will be alone, the maximum half + raise, omit the device itself at the mobile installation + to core, .. and at the hospital, it does not need to worry about the center, you do not need to keep yourself in fear, That right now as the Kamen will come and the handle on the head or something more more important. And at the hospital, if in a stone or something else, it will be prevailed, it will cut the key (nail or the like), which is between the adapter and the Bura's shaft.

As a fisherman, you learned how to carry Russian iceworks to the place of Klev, when on -20 ° C. As the owner, you experienced a sense of a person who had uploaded 20 yam shovel when building a fence.

Domestic ice rolls no longer attract you with their availability and disproportion. You come to the store for the sale of means of small mechanization in order to buy imported products.

The numbers on the price tag are significant, but the scope of work on your site does not correspond to them. Buy an expensive tool for seasonal work - an irrational solution. And you bought chainsaw once, and it was not so necessary.

This chainsaw can be turned into a presentable moto motor. Thanks to its ingenuity, you will receive two tools and save well.

Characteristics of Motoburov

If you doubt whether the homemade tool of time and effort is worth it, you don't know which volume of small earthworks can be completed literally per hour.

You can drill poles for pillars, lanterns, for trees disembarking, build foundations, make up a plot in accordance with your aesthetic taste and needs, without resorting to rent special equipment and manual digging.

If an earthen burner copes with some solid types of soil, the ice is more than a meter thick. In winter fishing, you will catch the fish, and not engage in driving.

Criteria that has a good motobur made by hand:

• Power. For household needs, at least 3 horsepower. The power of engines of some modifications reaches 6 liters. with., But it all depends on the operating conditions.

  You can manage the compact and light brown yourself, the more powerful will require the presence of another operator.

• Engine volume Plays the same role as power. The larger the cubic centimeters of the fuel mixture holds the engine, the wider the possibilities of the motorcing.

  The main landmark when choosing the volume is the nature of the soil. Alumina, sand, frozen soil require different engine characteristics.

• Functionality, Drilling ability. What auger "pulls" the engine? What will be the diameter of the auger in millimeters? Is it easy to pick up a screw in the store, or do difficulty delivery arise?

  Does the equipment of the screw extensioner include whether it is provided for a specific model? Having answered these questions, the user will be able to determine which tool he needs.

If you are interested in the independent manufacture of high-quality motility, you need to add that the fruit of your efforts will depend on not from talent. The process will require trial in turning and awareness of the principles of action of simple mechanisms.

There is nothing complicated in the manufacture of Motobur with your own hands. If you understand the gearboxes, you can disturb the sleeve of the desired diameter and build a high-quality mount.

Without some abilities, do not do here. Enjoy the support of a familiar lockster, if you do not own practical skills to work with the details.

Motobur from chainsaws

Faced with a similar question for the first time, you may be surprised that the chainsaw is used not only to saw wood. This is just one of the applications.

From chainsaws there may be a chic petrosis, winch, boring, motor for boat, deboker, device for dissolution logs on the boards, etc.

Functionality is provided with constructive features chainsaws:

• unpretentious and reliable engine;
• hermetic feeding of the fuel mixture, the leak of which is possible only if the chainsaw is flip over;
• the main thing is understandable for all power take-off system. The output shaft of the chainsaw allows you to hang any nozzle.

Therefore, it is precisely chainsaws to take as a basis for a new device. It is not necessary to sacrifice it for the sake of Motobur: You disconnect the drilling nozzle, put the saw and cut the logs.

The engine chainsaw is designed for long-term and intensive operation, so you do not have to worry about breakdown or poor-quality execution of the task.

Theoretically, you can make a similar motorcing from trimmer, lawn mowers or grinder.

In practice, it is quite difficult due to the unusual gearbox. There may be problems due to insufficient power take-off or irregular rotation of the drilling auger.

Progress

So, how to make Motobur do it yourself from chainsaws?

Prepare chainsaw. In most cases, the Soviet Saw Pille "is used.

The auger should rotate at low speed. It is necessary to find a way to reduce revolutions so that there is as much as necessary to safely work with the Motoburn. Therefore, in order to make a motobore with your own hands, a gearbox will be required.

Klinorenny and worm gearboxes perform the same role, despite the constructive differences. But in this case, worm is preferable.

Note: worm transmission efficiency is lower than that of clinorem. The worm gear is heated faster, but it can be installed directly to the shaft of the base mechanism. No connecting couplings or mechanical gears do not need.

The big gear of the clinorem gear gear should lead to the movement of the auger!

You figured out the gearbox. But where to take it? It is better to buy. In the network you can find stories about brave, which, armed with a grinder, screwdriver and hammer, disassemble old tools and remove gearboxes from them. Also an option, but unreliable and barbaric.

Reducer and motor chainsaws should be copped. At this stage, you may need a locksmith. Usually the sleeve of the required diameter is mounted - it serves as a connecting link.

Need extra fasteners. You can not buy it anywhere. This is handmade, for each device the mount is selected individually.

Left pick up the bur and knives to it. Drill and auger should coincide in the direction of rotation if the device is a national team. The most popular - "tonnar", "Mora", "Hitachi". The cost usually does not exceed 5000 p.

Knives are desirable to pick up "relatives" and not Chinese production, especially if the motobur you will use for drilling holes on winter fishing.

Chinese burst, fall off, crack and they can not be restored by welding.

The homemade motorcing can be drilled well with a maximum diameter of 150 mm. What, how and how to boot, the best practice will prompt. Each chooses an optimal use option.

Motobur from drill

Making a similar device from a drill is much easier. High power - mandatory drill characteristic. It is better to take advantage of the perforator.

The process will be less laborious, because the gearbox does not need to look for - it is included in the perforator design. In addition, the borants belong to those devices that are aggregated with a drill without additional details.

The safety clutch is installed between the output shaft and the shaft of the drift drift. It prevents additional load on the gearbox and auger, so it will not get stuck.

Perforators are always equipped with a reverse, unlike a drill.

Make a Motobur with your own hands from a drill a little more difficult:

1. Need to pick a drill with a capacity of at least 2 kWhaving a receiver. Mark and year of release do not matter.
2. Buy worm gearbox (can be used) with a gear ratio of 1:25. You can purchase coaxial, but its use can bring inconvenience.
3. Auger - either buy, or cook yourself.
4. Creare all the items in a technologically completed design. Perhaps at this stage you will have to seek help, although if there is tools, materials and logic, you can construct fasteners yourself.

   The main thing is that it be durable, careful and did not prevent the normal operation of the Motobura.

The advantage of chainsaws before the drill is its autonomy. The drill is running from the network, which narrows the spheres of its use, and the "chainsaw" Motoburn can be used in winter fishing conditions.

The advantage of the drill: the fuel mixture is absent, oil too. Drill can operate at minus temperature, and chainsaw freezes. It is necessary to spend time on its heating.

Memo driller

Creative inventors can mount motorcycles on the cart. If the tool is often used in the economy, it will be convenient.

Before independent manufacture of motorcing, calculate possible costs (gearbox, boring, auger, knives).

Compare with the cost of the new auger. If the difference in favor of homemade will be significant, it makes sense to make efforts to its manufacture.

The gearbox is not in vain is considered the most important element of Motobur. The number of revolutions at the output must comply with the requirements of the comfort.

The high number of revolutions will keep the driller in voltage, and the auger will continue to rotate even after the device is turned off. This is dangerous.

On the other hand, low revs lead to the lengthening of the time segment, which is required to perform a specific task. Hands and back will be tired.

Properly selected gearbox - the key to your "friendship" with a motoroburn.

Do you know how to choose a two-row in three criteria?

Of the interesting technical characteristics of the tower crane KB-403.

At the following address, an article is prepared for you to determine the choice of a hand-held cultivator for the cottage.

Do not run to the tool in the drilling process. It is hard to cope with it, especially when the auger gets on a stone. Be prepared for this and keep the distance.

Failure to comply with safety techniques threatens the same consequences regardless of whether you work with the factory or homemade tool.

Before work, break the hands of the hands - you will be more resistant to Motobur whims.

If old chainsaws, manual drills, drills, Bulgarian, are intense, do not rush to get rid of them on your attic.

These tools will help make it possible to make a new expensive device that will open up extensive opportunities.

Information obtained while watching video can be applied in practice - when creating a motobroad with your own hands:

The modern market is saturated with different kind of construction tools and devices. Take, for example, Yamobur: Today you can easily find a device, the cost of which is quite accessible, and the stated characteristics are fully satisfied with the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But do not always hurry with such acquisition. The fact is that budgetary equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, and it is not at all capable of performing functions entrusted to it: the brunt does not hurry to enter the ground, even with a strong press, the engine turnover falls from a large load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of building or garden work - not always appropriate. Rent - too, pleasure not cheap. Therefore, the craftsmen to apply the equipment already available at their disposal to create compact drilling installations.

Earth Drill

In most cases, the mechanized yamobur is a power plant (a powerful drill or gasoline engine), which, using a simple mechanical drive, is connected to a conventional manual brown. Bur can be made independently.

Drill from drill do it yourself.

You can find a ready-made boring car.

skyle User forumhouse.

Many say that they bought just such a screw and secured it is a powerful low-robust electric drill.

Engine characteristics

Recommendations relating to the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the brown both directly and through an additional gearbox. The need to use the gearbox each determines for itself. As practice shows if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need for the reducer of the gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and in the process of work it is necessary to keep it).

jumper_at_home. User forumhouse.

At first, the gearbox was planned, but after the field tests with the scheme - "Drill - Auch" was decided from the gearbox to refuse. The moment is that the operator does not notice at all (if you drill with your hands).

Power index - 2 kW - not happened by us. It is such a drill most often use the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized yamobur.

Tri.dr.e. User forumhouse.

There is experience in building a column foundation with painter. Used a 2 kW and auger drill, calculated on the diameter of the pit - 30 cm (the diameter of the boosa is somewhere equal to 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling used an extension from a conventional steel pipe. The ground in me on that place is not sugar: the earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth -1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order for the units of the required depth in the land, the user had to build a compact drill unit (with a bed, winch and other auxiliary devices).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the presented description it is easy to understand what a drill is capable of a rated power of 2 kW (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the shaft of the borax, it is determined by the following dependence:

• N - Power (W).
• M - torque (NM).
• n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 - Special coefficient.

Theoretically torque on the working shaft of such an installation during revolutions of 500 rp should be 38 nm (64 nm - at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to consider the losses that define the efficiency of the device. The fact is that most of the manufacturers of the power tool indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) by 1/3 ... 1/4 less consumed. Accordingly, less and torque. A 2 kW dry drill at 300 rpm will create a torque on spindle, equal to 64 nm, and approximately 48 nm.

Choosing a power unit for his yamobura, you can view devices with a power consumed less than 2 kW. But then seriously will have to think about the introduction of a lowering gearbox in the construction of a drill unit.

uVL77 User forumhouse.

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows, without changing the power, proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque. That is, reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And in this case the power remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on a torque that creates a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose a suitable device for your yamobura. In other words, knowing the drill power, the number of turns of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the torque value that you get at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the speed of the rumble can not be greatly reduced.

uVL77 User forumhouse.

The optimal frequency of revolutions during drilling is from 60 ... 100 to 200 ... 300 rpm. Mode Depends on the type of soil, the method of drilling, varieties of drilling nozzles, the well diameter, etc.

In the above quote, drilling methods are mentioned. There are all two: continuous drilling and drilling with a constant removal of soil. For continuous drilling, the installation should ensure a large torque.

During drilling with a constant removal of the soil of the auger, driving into the ground to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also extracted out.

The operation is repeated until the drilling system reaches a given depth. The process is time consuming, but it does not require large torque.

As we said, choosing a power unit for a drill unit, it is better to focus on a low-definite drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, to the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews of Forumhouse users, these devices managed to prove well. Power of gasoline engines should also comply with the specified indicator.

Reducers for Yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characteristic of the use of primary materials, devices and nodes that have long been idle, because they are not worthy of a worthy application. The experience of our users suggests that the reduced mechanical transmission can be made of a wide variety of details: from the spare parts to the moped person, from the uncomplicated chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, which accidentally closed on the old shelf in the garage and so on.

Ensuring drilling gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal turns of the borax and that it is necessary to ensure a sufficient torque on its working shaft.

Mehanik020. User forumhouse.

My broken moped was lying around, I took the rear gearbox from him. Sawned the gearbox to the Turbine (the back of the aluminum case with the gearbox), then across the gear gear fixed to this gearbox, the electric motor from the old electropulum with a capacity of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave the ratio - 13: 1 (at the output it turned out about 300 rpm).

About the chain transmission: possessing the famous fraction of the smelting, it is possible, without making great efforts, to build a completely reliable yamobur with sufficient power. The idea presented is not new, and many successfully apply it in practice (if there is a need for this).

jumper_at_home. User forumhouse.

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to manufacture from the GHM chain of the VAZ 2101 and its same asterisks. Transmission number - 1: 2. Tests showed that it is not needed. Is that at all solid soils to use it, but we have no such.

The application of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the build of a drill unit. If you have a small serial reducer (or it is possible to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, the photo of the gearbox shown by the user Melomandk.

Melomandk. User forumhouse.

Here is such a gearbox. That's just a gear ratio large - equal or even a little more than 1:40. Sizes (by body) - somewhere 15 x15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di Griz User forumhouse.

My Yamobur based on such a gearbox. While I am very pleased. Engine - Bulgarian (3000 revolutions at the exit). Bulgarian power - 2 kW. Claine did not try, but a tough rammed land with the inclusions of the rubble and rotten roots of Yamobur took. A screw diameter - 160 mm, self-made knives on it - from the springs.

Stanina

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to keep the installation in the hands, then the equipment can be fixed in a special bed.

Constructive execution at homemade stanis, as well as under low mechanical gears, may be the most diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the overwhelming majority.

Lifting mechanism

As a lifting mechanism, you can use a chain transmission installed inside the central rack. Lifting and lowering is carried out either using an additional electric motor or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home.).

jumper_at_home. User forumhouse.

Major plunged by 1.8 m (auger + extension cord). I did not need deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the stove with the main electric motor without moving freely along the vertical tube, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another lift design involves the use of steel cable and winch with an additional electric motor.

Mehanik020. User forumhouse.

On the square tube up and down the main electric motor of the drill rides. He moves at the expense of the winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the boring of the ground from the well.

For convenience Mehanik020.made a remote controlling the winch and rotation of the boraxy during operation.

The drill, along with the soil on it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At a great depth, it will work on the principle of the piston, creating a vacuum and exacerbating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

Dmitryevg. User forumhouse.

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the polyspaster). Power - 1kW.

Lower support for the bed

The bottom support of the bed can be equipped with two wheels (for convenient movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, the installation by a simple tilt of the bed will be translated from the transport position in the working.

It is desirable to install adjusting screws on the support elements of the bed, which will help to put the car in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of beds are chosen due to considerations of strength. Independently performing a complex calculation of the design of the structure is far from everyone, but anyone can take advantage of the experience of the participants of our portal.

So, user. Tri.dr.e.made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. Vertical supports and upper transverse bar are made of two bonded corners of the specified size.

User jumper_at_home. Lined in the design of the bed different metal profile with a thickness of the walls - at least 3 mm. The plot under the power plant was made by it from a steel sheet with a thickness of 10 mm.

But the installation photo that was created by the user Pwrww."From what was" (as he himself says).

Pwrww. User forumhouse.

The most difficult thing was to find two smooth solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they were not, I would buy a profile pipe for 80 or 100 mm. Below used a piece of channel 80 and a corner of scrap metal. Also among the scrap found 4 P-shaped plates of suitable length.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that, if necessary, the drill installation operator was able to become. It is especially important to comply with this condition on solid soils.

jumper_at_home. User forumhouse.

This is what was used to protect against drill turning: a stubborn corner of steel - 6 mm is screwed to the hole under the handle, which is available on the drill case. Everything is pulled by bolts with a sufficient plane of surfaces. If you want even more reliable - Provide a clamp under the planting protrusion, which is available on the drill convey.

Mechanical drive

The design of the mechanical drive connecting a drill or other engine with an earthen drill with a working shaft is not different. To create it, there is enough adapter, which is inserted into the cartridge drill (Morse cone, etc.) and the cylindrical sleeve, one end of the bark is welded to the adapter, and the other is dressed on the boome shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole between the drill and the brown, it is possible to insert removable knees made from the same material as the rod of the bora.

In order to prevent breakdowns when encamping the working body, the drive and the boron should be connected using a special protective heel. The stud is made of metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. Testing the installation is better with a stud with a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost prof User forumhouse.

Imagine if you have a boring to stumble onto a stone and commit. I have a nail of 4 mm as a slide stiletto, and it never cut it. But if an obstacle meets, then he gives his hand in his hands.

Homemade

As we said, the working body of the installation (boring) can be purchased in a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, homemade drill with removable blades.

For its manufacture, we will need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for blades and for their base. The bases to which blades will be screwed can be made from a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made from high-strength heat steel (Art. 65g). If you need a small-diameter garden yamobur, then you can use ordinary springs from the truck.

For the manufacture of blades, you can use discs from a circular saw.

The diameter of the borax should be 5 mm more than the diameter of the drilled holes.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Throwing the upper handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of the homemade drill must comply with the following parameters:

• The angle between cutting blades (between blades) can vary within - from 25 ° to 30 °.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45 ° ... 60 °.
• To the lower end of the bora, it is desirable to weld a thick drill on the metal, thanks to which the installation will be easier to enter the tight soil.

As a garden borne to fix in a drill.

During the construction of the house and arrangement of the site often needed round holes in the ground. They are needed in the device of the fence - under the installation of pillars, when building arbors, installation of arches and other light household structures. The same shurtes, but larger diameters and depths are required during the device. Make these holes with a motorized or manual brown. In stores they are in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade: often they are more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make any structure with your own hands, and there are quite a few.

Construction and application

More simple in the manufacture of garden earthworks. Depending on the type of soils, on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This consists of the charm of homemade drills - they can be "sharpening" to specific conditions and it is not only in size - the blades can be made removable, on bolts, but also in the design features. Yes, ordinary boys in the store are inexpensive, but they are "universal." Well work on "light" soils. " On Suglinka, clays, mergele, etc. They are ineffective.

Making a garden bur

Garden Break is the simplest, but effective design. It consists of:

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first about what land from which you can do.

Materials

As already spoke, the rod is most often made from the pipe round or square cross section. Diameter - from 3/4 'to 1.5', the profiled tube can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.

You can do knives from:

It is easier to make a blade from the saw disk. In this case, the cutting edges are ready. It will be possible to additionally sharpen the side faces so that the soil is cut easier.

Peak-drill makes from different materials - a lot of her designs. Make just sharpened rod. Then you need a cut of a large diameter. The second option - something type of drill began to do from the strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Peak - one of the options of the tip

And finally - about the handle. It is more convenient if it is made of a round tube. Its diameter can be chosen to cover the palms. The main requirement - you should be convenient.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, it is necessary to decide, you make the drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, on one of the ends of the rod weld the shelf of thick steel. The shelves are done under the tilt - so that the plane of the knives are diluted at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves have been welded, two or three holes are made in them - under fasteners. Then the same holes will have to be done in the blades, but to install them on the bolts of solid diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for shurts of different diameters

In the disks themselves, it will have to cut holes in the center - so that they make it more closely to the rod, but this operation is required and with a monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If the blades are going to do from sheet steel, cut the pattern from paper, on it - a circle of steel. In the center drill a hole - it will be necessary to insert and trust the rod. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The sizes of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

It is also necessary to breed the edges of 25-30 °. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, they are added from a corner or thick strip stops.

The blades are bent due to the fact that the steel is used insecured, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From the saw disk

If you have an old dispersion disk of a suitable diameter - you found an almost perfect option. In them, steel is used hardened, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disc will not be able to bend, therefore it is cut in half and these halves are divorced under the desired angle.

Such homemade car for earthwork shows quite high performance. Even used wheels have a good ending edge. And so that the drilling is even easier, the drill with their own hands are sharpening on the sides.

Modifications

In dense soils, it is difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes weld into the rod. From the bottom, near the peaks, you weld the smallest, above, retreating several centimeters - large. Such tiers can be three, the maximum is four. The whole cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise work is physically very difficult.

If the bur is needed for shallow pit - to install pillars, etc., such a design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is such - lowered in the hole, tested several times - pulled out, poured the ground stuck between the blades. But if you have to drill deep shurs, to carry from the depths of a small amount of soil torture. For such cases above the blades, weld a box for collecting the soil.

And all this - the borants made by their own hands. All of them are characterized by high efficiency - work is much easier than purchased.

Screw

A screw burrow due to a large number of turns creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more complicated to work than a garden brown. But the augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are on the water, the devices of underground probes for the heat pump, etc.

For the manufacture of a homemade auger, there will be several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, the hole is cut into the rod, as well as the same sector - so that you can cook.

The discs are welded on the one hand, then, slightly stretching the resulting harmonica, boil the seam on the other side. On the extreme disks weld rings. Cooked discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Boer for piles tees

In the author's version of Dr. Tees is a blade with an earthquake and a folding wider knife that forms expansion at the bottom of the pile. But it is inconvenient to work with such a projectile - greatly interferes with the folding knife. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the shurts themselves with a conventional garden brown themselves, and for the expansion to make a separately folding knife with an earthquake. So work takes place easier and faster.

Drive do it yourself for piles tees - one of the options

As a knife, a cropped shovel appears here, and the landworker is made from the cans from under herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowering in the shurf, tightened by the caprochy cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable weakened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the shurf, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below is the second version of the self-made drill for piles tees. The design is more complicated, but more efficient. Plow-blade is made of a slicer of springs, sharpened and welded to a folding structure on bolted connections.

Experienced - from the old propane balloon. Earth collection takes place from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

It works this projectile well even on a dense clay. True, to reduce the friction, the well constantly need to be wedged with water.

Blueprints

The car made by their own hands is good because its design is "sharpened" under the owner. In the process of manufacture, everyone contributes its changes, then many more modify the product. But without basic drawings it can be difficult to do. In this griev, several drawings are collected with the size of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

For planting plants, it does not make sense to make a serious design. In this case, you can make a garden drill from the shovel. Choose high-quality, from good steel shovel, apply markup, as shown in the drawing. On the markup it will be necessary to cut two small fragments, cut down the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (in the photo).

If the soil is soft, the usual design is not working very well. For such cases there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. Cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are better to do from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod is increased.

Basic drawings of auke and garden bora

Both of these aggregates work well, but the garden has to be often removed, and the screw is heavier to rotate. Choose your own preferences.

Drawing of Garden Bura

Video materials

In the garden plot you have to use various equipment. To plant trees or build a fence, the owner will use the electrobore for earthworks. This device is characterized by simplicity of construction and has high performance. It is only necessary to choose the device correctly, and work will take less physical strength and time.

general information

Before going to the store for such a device, it should be founded that it represents an electric car for earthworks and how it works at all. Most models have a special frame as the main element. It contains two handles, as well as an electric motor complemented by a gearbox. The latter is necessary to increase the torque when using the device.

There are many selection criteria for electrolyboard

During work, the unit must keep two people at the same time. When rotating the shaft of the gearbox, the torque is transmitted to the screw screw. Thanks to him, it appears the opportunity to perform a variety of earthworks. How much will have to spend on the purchase of equipment, largely depends on its characteristics. The most important are:

• dimensions;
• power;
• terms of Use.

The range of similar devices on the Russian market is small, which is explained by a limited area of \u200b\u200btheir use. But in fact, the electric car is a fairly versatile device. The choice in favor of a specific type of consumer must do, pushing out from the type of soil prevailing on the site. In addition to it, you can purchase a variety of nozzles that manufacturers are offered for different surfaces.

In this video you know more about Earthly Burea:

Advantages and disadvantages

Although the electric car for the Earth is available in stores, but on the plots it is rarely used. Many refuse to buy the device, because they simply do not know about its main advantages:

1. Saving physical forces. These devices work at the expense of electricity, so work related to drilling holes in the soil becomes an easy task.
2. Ecology. Unlike gasoline devices, their electrical fears do not release exhaust gases during operation, therefore there are no harm for plants and the environment.
3. Silent. Electric drill during work does not create noise. Thus, its use completely eliminates discomfort for neighbors.
4. Minimum weight. Modern models are distinguished by a small mass, which also gives them an advantage over gasoline devices.

The main and only minus of these devices is that the boron is tied to the electrical outlet 220 V. If the site is not electrified, then there is no possibility to apply similar equipment. Although many models are equipped with batteries, but the battery energy is not enough for continuous operation of the device.

Terms of application

Usually, the electric electric bob is used to make holes for planting fruit trees or shrubs. But even during construction work, this device can also come in handy. It is great for creating holes where the piles or other reference elements will be installed in the future.

Performing work on the creation of holes in the soil manually - a time consuming taskAnd it is noticeably complicated by the encountered stones and the roots of trees. However, the use of electric borax allows you to solve the problem easily and quickly. In a situation where you need to drill holes in a hard-to-reach place, where there is no possibility to place the overall equipment, such a device will greatly facilitate the process.

Today, a variety of electric boys are available on the market. Among themselves, they differ in size. They can be used even for such works as drilling well or well well. If you need a device for performing a wide range of tasks in the garden, it can be easily purchased without any problems in any specialized store.

Child Nuances

In order for the equipment to provide high efficiency when used, it should be properly chosen, focusing on the tasks to be solved. Highlights that deserve attention when choosing an electric bora, this is the power of the device and the equipment of the device.

It is necessary to understand that small power limits the scope of use. But the purchase of high-power equipment is also an irrational solution, especially if it is planned only to occasionally apply in the garden plot. The optimal choice will be the acquisition of an instrument with a capacity of 1.5 kW.

If the electrical boring is required to install a pile foundation or performing another time-consuming task, then models from 2 kW and higher should be considered.

A good completion of the device provides easy operation of a variety of works. Such a device can be considered universal, but this leads to an increase in its value. In specialized stores, the minimum price of such equipment is 15,000 rubles. To get a high-quality and reliable device at your disposal, you must seriously spend.

Main producers

Drilling equipment for use in garden sites produce many companies. In countries such as Japan, Sweden and Italy, there are many firms producing electric boos . The following companies are most in demand among Russian consumers:

1. Echo. This Japanese company produces a variety of products. Models are highly reliable and delight with their operational characteristics. Their feature is a pretty simple design. This eliminates the frequent breakdowns and facilitates the service. The average price tag on the devices of this manufacturer is 28 000 rubles.
2. EFCO. The manufacturer from Italy offers a variety of drilling devices. Feature of instruments - increased strength, they easily withstand serious loads. Fixtures are excellent for frequent use. Brand products are offered at an average price of 29,000 rubles.
3. Stihl. The technique of this company is well known in the Russian market. The domestic manufacturer offers a variety of devices. In the line of its products there are electrical boos. Models are distinguished by practicality and durability. They are also economical to use. Devices can be used to perform various difficulties, equipped with a safe lock system. The average price for them compared to foreign analogues is much lower and amounts to 15,000 rubles.

Choosing a device of one of the well-known manufacturers, you can get a reliable device that will last long. Do not buy equipment from hand. The best solution is to cooperate with the dealer. At the official representative of the brand you can buy really high-quality equipment, moreover, in this case, competent service is guaranteed.