Wooden bed material. Double bed of wood with your own hands. How to make a soft headboard

Even the simplest bed model is sold at a price not lower than 7,500 rubles. For someone, this is not money, but the main problem in the other. Not every finished bed It turns out to be placed where you want - do not allow typical dimensions. And if we are talking about a small garden house, a modest veranda or a gazebo, then the size of the product is the criterion determining, and it is hardly anyone who will acquire a bed for such use in the furniture salon, given its value.

The feasibility of making furniture made of wood with their own hands in many cases is more than obvious. And how to competently approach the solution of this issue, that we will consider all the nuances of the organization of "home-made" the beds from the tree with our own hands.

Many sites are recommended when choosing a bed parameters to navigate the standard sizes of mattresses (2000 x 1500). The argument - it should tightly lie down at the place. Is it really relevant, the author proposes to solve the reader. It is only worth noting that the whole charm in manufacturing with your own hands is the possibility of choosing not only materials, but also dimensions, forms of any product.

The same applies to the mattress. If desired, it is easy to "construct" himself. For example, from foambone canvases, cover which with a cloth (cover, stitched in size) will not be a lot of work. In extreme cases, the mattress can be ordered in a special workshop, according to an individual drawing. Therefore, it is unlikely to "look around" for him.

So, the instructions for the manufacture of a wooden bed will begin with preparatory activities.

Basic - for frame

High-quality wood blanks (board, timber) are expensive. What can be saved on? For the frame you should take even samples, with a minimum of bitch. This will make it possible to more thoroughly polish the tree (grinding to help) and decorate it efficiently, and anything. As a rule, homemade beds are covered with varnish, and through its layer all defects are clearly visible. But for the legs, the plates can be purchased by wood at a lower price. Given that these elements are not so striking, enough and second-rate products.

It has the value of the tree of wood. Since homemade beds in residential rooms in the living rooms put in our time (except from expensive wood, for special price), then breeds are less susceptible to rotting (). After all, they are made with their own hands. Similar furnishing items are installed mainly in rooms (or outside them), in which the temperature differences are not uncommon and dampness.

From affordable rocks can be allocated larch and pine. Spruce, although it is a coniferous tree, it is not worth using. She has a soft structure, therefore, it is not necessary to talk about the strength of the bed. Its design rather quickly falls out, and will have to systematically repair.

For finishing bed

Homemade beds rarely color. Basically, the material is qualitatively polished and. Few during surface treatment of wood uses a primer composition, although the expediency of its use is obvious. First, penetrating the inside of the structure, the soil strengthens its top layer. Secondly, the consumption of the paintwork is reduced, since the impregnation has already filled out all the micro-foams. And given the cost of high-quality varnish, which significantly exceeds the price of the primer compositions - an important aspect.

Drawing up drawing

You will have to answer two questions - as far as the bed is calculated, and what age they are. Recommended dimensions:

• width: per - 95 ± 5, for two - 180 ± 15. For the so-called "half-timer" is enough 130 ± 20;
• length: for a child - 150, adult - 200;
• the height of the frame - within 40.

But it costs to recall - this is not a standard, but just a recommendation. The choice of parameters is made arbitrarily, based on the specifics of the installation of the bed.

Selection of sawn timber

The scheme of a wooden bed is simple, but use the same samples for the manufacture of the same type, but several different constructive parts are unlikely reasonable.

Frame

For side walls, board takes (2 pcs.) 2 500 x 300. Thickness - within 20 - 25. But for the front and rear there are options. In order to reduce the cost of the product, you can use finished plates. For example, Wavy or chipboard, but only laminated. Protective coating and strength to add material, and solve the problem with an attractive appearance.

Some wizards front and rear "shields" are assembled from the same board, trimming them with a thin plywood. As far as it is better, everyone will determine and himself, but the fact that the manufacture of such a wooden bed will take much longer - definitely.

Legs

Sufficient bar with side 40. The length depends on how hard it is necessary to lift the bed above the floor. Exactly the same wooden samples are suitable for use as a support for the frame. The total length of the workpiece is easy to calculate, depending on the parameters of the bed indicated in the drawing.

Frame

The mattress will be laid on it. It is quite suitable and a thin, narrow board (most importantly, to properly determine the interval between the elements), and the small sections ram. Alternatively - fat plywood or chipboard. The frame scheme is so simple that it is not difficult to choose optimal blanks.

Required tool

Explain on the items that it is necessary to work with wood, a business man - a waste of time. You just need to not forget about the level (construction). At each stage, the build of a wooden bed will have to control the strict symmetry of all its components. Determine "on the eyes", it is smoother, it turns out - it means to pre-trim yourself on the alteration of the whole design.

It will necessarily need a joinery of clamp. In the process of making a wooden bed is used adhesive composition. Each of them is characterized by its time of complete harmony. Since, for the period of drying, the workpiece should be securely fixed, without the presser device it is not necessary. How to make it with your own hands, which modifications exist for domestic use ,.

The assembly for a competently compiled drawing and with the presence of the necessary tool is made quite quickly.

• Any markup is small errors, which is quite natural if the cutting of wood is made not in a machine manner, but with their own hands. To achieve the maximum identity of the same type of design, it is necessary to make one of them very precisely, the first. Using it as a reference, everyone else is done on this template.
• With surface treatment of billets from wood, it is preferably at least a little bit sharp edge. For more thorough alignment of the base, it is recommended to use household grinders. The work of this tool will give not only a high result, but also greater savings in time. About varieties.
• The connection of the structural parts is only landing for glue or with the help of fastening parts (screws, screws) does not guarantee the durability of a wooden bed. The structure of the material is soft enough. In the process of using the bed, one way or another will be subjected to at least minor dynamic loads. Especially when it comes to the "Children's" version - the kids love to jump on the mattress. "Shat" of the whole design will manifest quite quickly, and therefore it will have to be repaired, and even with the replacement of individual parts.

The connection of "Schip-groove" with the sizing of these places is a more correct solution. Typical parameters of faces and protrusions: depth (length) - 45 ± 5, width - 25 ± 5. If necessary, reinforce the design it is advisable to use a metal corner. Enough easy, aluminum, on "ten". These fasteners are installed on the inside, and after the final assembly of the bed and laying the mattress are absolutely invisible.

Everything else - at the discretion of the wizard. For example, the front and rear walls are made or identical, or different in height. The legs are both square and round. If you "include" fantasy, it is easy to make such a bed that can be bolded to call "exclusive". When the drawing is compiled independently, the assembly is done with their own hands, there is no hard standard. And the main practical recommendations are given.

Successes to you, homemade masters!

Modern furniture stores do not cease to surprise the variety of models of beds, as well as their functionality. But for various reasons it is not always possible to choose what you need. In this regard, there are a large number of options, how to make a comfortable and practical place to sleep and rest with your own hands.

Review models

At home, almost any kind of furniture can be made. Before making a particular type of bed, you must decide on its model. Depending on the purpose, the drawing is designed and the materials are selected. The usual property of its own production can be supplemented with built-in storage boxes for storage of bedding or seasonal clothing. It is very convenient, as the room is not clogged with furniture for placing things, thereby remains free space for life.

Such beds are made easy, the main thing is that all the details are qualitatively processed and ground, otherwise the boxes will be stuck in special openings.

Consider the main models:

• One of the most common beds - bunk. Such a type of sleeping space allows you to save space and arrange two people with comfort. As a rule, such beds are bought in a nursery. The case must be durable and high quality to avoid accidents.

• If there is little space in the bedroom, the transformer bed will make an excellent solution wardrobe bed. This model in the daytime can perform a functional load, and in the evening turn into a comfortable place for sleep and rest. Such beds can be of different size and configuration. The most important thing in their independent manufacture is to choose a reliable and correct lift or folding mechanism so that there is no distortion and the squeak of furniture when it is used for its intended purpose.
• Another option for saving space will be the manufacture of the podium with retractable bed. The same place can combine several zones. At night, this is a place to sleep, and in the afternoon - workspace.

• For such premises, like a loggia or a living room, suit chair-bed.. It is convenient for such furniture in that it can use it every day, it does not take up much space, and in case of arrival of guests, it is easy to transform into a full-fledged bed. It will be pleasant that the fact that there will not leave a lot of strength, time and money.
• Creative idea will be the creation suspended bed. The design itself consists of a frame and a frame with a lamel. When it is installed, it is necessary to have enough space, because in the process of use it will swing, and if there is little space around, there is a risk of waking up from a collision with a wall or furniture. For manufacture, give preference to light, but durable materials.

Bring a little magic and fairy tales to the bedroom will help "Flying", or "soaring" bed. It is unique in that she has a console fastening system, so it seems that it seems to be visually what the bed hangs in the air. Very often, the LED backlight is fixed to maintain the idea of \u200b\u200bthe flight. In addition to a soft mattress, such a place for rest is suitable for both children and adults.

If it was decided to make a bed on your own, it is better not to be limited to standards and come up with an unusual and creative model, saving on this good amount.

Beds can be for both children and adults. Kids can make sleeping places in the form of a car, a house or a hanging ship, it all depends on imagination and means.

For kids up to 5 years, it is better to make a crib with a limiter, since in a dream, many of them actively move and sometimes fall to the floor. The limiter can be attached separately and with time it can be removed. As a rule, it is made of metal, wood or plastic. It is easy to sew on it, so that the child does not touch the "naked" metal or wood.

The dream of every child is to have your own small house where it can play and have fun, but even more interesting will have your own house-bed. Such a sleeping place has many design options and models:

• In the first case(and simpler) There is a regular box of the bed, and 4 beams with a roof housing are mounted on top of the reference rails without any additions. All items are efficiently processed and squeaked if they are made of wood so that the child does not wear the skin surface. On top of the whole design, lightweight canopy is hung. As a night light, the LED ribbon will look at the contour of the roof of the bedroom roof. So it turns out a beautiful and cozy bed.
• In the second case The house is done in more detail, namely, with a full-fledged roof and a facade, which will serve as a side bed. This option is suitable for two-storey beds, where there is a real staircase, in which children will walk to each other "to visit".

In the manufacture of the bed for adultsyou can experiment with form and functionality. It will be very interesting to look a round bed. However, it will be difficult to fulfill it, therefore, if there is little experience in this matter, it is better to order details at a professional carpenter or carpenter.

When you want to make a big bed, but not enough money, designers offer to use wooden pallets. For a double bed, you will need 6-8 pallets, which are fastened with each other in a rectangular form, and the usual mattress is put on top, and the bed is ready.

If a sleeping room of small sizes, then it will work itself to create an ergonomic and compact sleeping place. It is best when the bed will be with a sliding mechanism that will allow it to collect it into a small and compact sofa after sleep. Either to equip a sleeping bed with drawers, in which pastel underwear, seasonal things or other items are rarely used.

Very often make a steaming bed with the panels built into the wall that perform the function of the table. They can accommodate night lamps or medium-sized floor lamps.

The head restraint deserves separate attention. It can carry both semantic and decorative load. In most cases, the headboard bed is used as a decor element that complements the space an unusual form or an ornament. In the second case, functional, it is better to make it soft and volume, so that it is convenient to rely on it when reading or watching the film.

Dimensions

With independent manufacture of a sleeping box, it is better to adhere to certain standards. In this case, it is much easier to choose the mattress and sleeping facilities (sheet, blanket, duvet cover, etc.).

Sleeping places are divided into three categories: single, double and one-time:

• Single bedsdesigned for a comfortable sleep of one person. Its standard sizes in width - 80-100 cm, and length - 180-190 cm. The length parameters and widths can be adjusted under its own growth and body volume. The length should be more by 15-20 cm than the growth of sleeping, and the width is calculated from the middle thickness of the person in the shoulders plus at 25-30 cm on each side.

• One-hour bedit is an intermediate option. It can fit 2 people with medium volumes or two children. Conventional dimensions: Width - 120 cm, length - 200 cm. There are "Extra" models, where width is increased by 20-30 centimeters.

• Double - This is a large large-sized bed, which provides a comfortable stay at the same time two people. The width of the bedway varies from 160 to 200 cm. The length is most often 200 cm. A variety is found - the Bed "Royal Size" or, in a simple, - three-bed bed. Its width is more than 200 cm. It is designed to sleep parents with a small child or for high and large people.

To make the bed of optimal sizes, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the body. If the sleeping person actively turns and turns over, then the width of the bed must be made more so that it does not fall during sleep on the floor.

Actual styles

For a comfortable stay, it is best to make a bed under the overall style of the room. Otherwise, resonance will be created in space. Everything else, the selection should be carried out depending on the size of the room itself. There are several relevant styles that can be divided into 3 large groups: for small bedrooms, medium and large.

Small bedrooms

For such premises, a hai-tech bed, minimalism, loft, East Asian direction suitable:

• Beds in style High tech They differ in their originality and interesting design, which is most often supplemented with practicality and functionality. Such sleeping places have unusual forms and a modern look. Mandatory the presence of proper geometric shapes and shiny surfaces. The dominant color scheme is clean and life-affirming colors: white, yellow, red, green, etc.

• Sleeping bed in style Minimalism They are distinguished by their simplicity and collaboration. A distinctive feature is ergonomics, simplicity of forms and lack of prefabricated and unnecessary parts. As a rule, the design implies light and monophonic colors: white, gray, milk.

• East Asian directionin the style of beds has many features. The most apparent is a landiness, namely a small height of the bed relative to the floor. The form has clear lines, sometimes the presence of a canopy.

• Not so long ago, at the beginning of the twentieth century in the USA, an unusual interior style appeared entitled Loft.Such a design appeared when initially the room was not built under residential space. It was specifically reworked under the residential zone. Usually these are the top floors of factories or shops. The apartments feature their scales and ease of design.

Under the influence of such premises, designers began to create a whole series of furniture (chairs, tables, beds, etc.) dedicated to this style. As for the beds, they are allocated by their simplicity and neutrality in the color scheme. A distinctive feature is also the presence of "coarse" elements. For example, metal rivets or artificial pulp can be on the headrest.

Mid-sized rooms

For mediterranean bedrooms, the beds in the style of Provence, Country or Modern are suitable:

• Style Provencesubconsciously perceived as something air, light and simple. Such beds are suitable for connoisseurs of classics and overall refinement in the interior. Sleeping beds have immaculately correct and clear forms that are combined with air and acidity covered and pillows. The main highlight is the headboard (it should be beautiful and soft), as well as the fancy of the supporting legs (they can be curved, twisted or carved). The prevailing colors are pastel shades.

• The most practical and convenient styles of the bed can be attributed Country. Sleeping space squat and has massive forms. Materials for its manufacture are taken only natural, namely pine or oak. Sometimes decorative elements made of metal, for example, on the headboard or legs, or the tissue covers of the khaki color, saffron shades, swampy or earthy are seized.

• Direction called Modern It is distinguished by its roundness and smoothness of forms. Modern style implies mixing materials in harmonious proportions, such as wood and metal, plastic and textiles. Colors can be absolutely different.

Large spaces

A large room allows you to put the beds of any style, but a special sister will give a bedroom in the style of Baroque, Ampir, Rococo and, of course, classicism:

• Baroquesometimes they are called coughing, as it implies an abundance of decorative elements, gilding, rich and dense materials for the upholstery of the bed. In most cases, the bed has a large and massive headboard, which can be supplemented with stucco. Color is also of great importance. It is usually shades of blue, silver, pistachio, gold, pink, red.

• Ampirit is one of the unique styles that combines luxury and aristocratic modesty. For the manufacture of beds in such a way, only the highest quality and expensive materials are taken, such as wood of a mahogany, sea oak or walnut. The size of the bed is also impressive. Forms have straight and clear silhouettes without porch, as in Baroque. For upholstery, fabrics are used with deep and saturated colors (indigo color, pure gray, emerald, purple, etc.).

• Its soft and convenience also boasts style Rococo. Forms in bed smooth, without sharp corners. Decorative elements are presented in gilding, textured thread and the perfect smoothness of lacquered elements of the main bed box. Styles are soft, close to pastel colors.

• As designers say, if there are no ideas for the choice of style, then there is nothing better classics. Such furniture is distinguished by its reliability, durability and functionality.

The case is made without excesses, the correct form. Materials for the manufacture of beds are taken high-quality and durable. It can be wood or metal. The color palette is very restrained, but may include bright, but not catchy decorative elements. There are white, black, gray and other pastel shades.

Currently, an increasing number of designers and masters are proposed not to follow strictly after the direction, and competently combine them among themselves, which will allow to unite the simplicity of forms, grace and convenience at the same time.

Selection of materials

Competent selection of materials for self-making bed locations is one of the main points in the creation of furniture. As a rule, its choice depends on the calculated amount and selected design:

• The most common material is a tree.In order for the bed for a long time and did not spoil health, it is better to give preference to the pine, oak or ash. Yes, wood is expensive, but she will repay his durability and environmental friendliness. In addition, the framework will be quite strong and easy. The only disadvantage of the tree is its susceptibility to air humidity. If the bars do not treat with a verse or varnish, that is, the risk that they will begin to rot or cover mold. In the case when the bed is constantly in an unbelievable room with dry air, a wooden product can disappear and crack.
• If there are not enough funds for solid wood, it can be replaced by plywood or fibrille tile - MDF. Such a bed usually serves about 10 years. Thanks to synthetic inclusions, the chipboard does not mold, and insect pests do not begin in it.

Many people do not choose this material because of its unnatural species, lack of beautiful texture and pattern. Also, the plywood is a small percentage of formaldehyde resins, which evaporate when heated or referring material. In this regard, you should not make a crib for a child from MDF panels or plywood.

• Currently began to return fashion on the bed with a metal case. This material was appreciated long ago for its distinctive characteristics, such as strength, reliability, resistance to temperature fluctuations and the ability to create original forms and patterns. The material itself is harmless and does not exude unpleasant and toxic smells. But at the same time, he has several drawbacks: a large weight of construction, tactile discomfort and trauma. In winter, the course of such a bed will be cold and uncomfortable if you touch it. Moreover, the metal is solid material in its structure, and if they hit it, the bruise or hematoma will remain.

To ease the weight of the bed, you can make a housing made of metal profile pipe. These are hollow iron tubes that are easily welded to each other. They are round, oval and square sections.

• In order to save and implement the remaining materials, it may turn out an unusual bed from the residues of PVC pipes or polypropylene (If for example, renovated bathroom repair). From such a material it is better to make a bed for children, as under the large weight of the mattress and adult people, the frame can crack or deform. If they still fell on them, it is better to give preference to polypropylene tubes. They are more durable and tough in their characteristics. To assemble such a bed, it will not take a lot of time and effort, just need to make the main box and transverse rails so that the weight of the sleeping person is correctly distributed over the entire perimeter. Designers experimenters advise to make each side of the main body from several rows of tubes, so the design will be more durable and reliable.

How to make measurements?

One of the important items in the manufacture of bed is measurement of parts and space, where it will be located. The scale of the future bedroom can proceed from 2 parameters: the size of the room and the dimensions of the future mattress. The bed should be proportionated to the exterior space and concisely complement the room. Therefore, if the room is large, you can afford large and bold sizes.

As for the mattress dimensions, it is better to come from a particular example. Standard double mattress has a length of 2 meters, width - 1.4-1.8 meters. The height depends on the weight of the sleeping person - than he is heavier, the thicker should be the coating.

After the measurements of the "soft" component were made, it should be proceeded by the arrangement of the size of the hull bed part. The inner part must correspond to the sizes of the mattress. If its width is 1.4 meters, then the width of the housing must be 16 mm more on each side so that there is a small gap for a comfortable placement of the mattress. Accordingly, the sizes of the head restraint will be calculated as: 1400 mm + 16 + 16 \u003d 1432 mm. Also calculated the length of the side parts: 2000 + 16 + 16 \u003d 2032 mm.

The height of the bed is calculated from the individual parameters of the person according to the standard that the bed from the floor should end approximately at the height of the knees. The mattress should "look out" by about 10 cm to protect the legs from shocks about the sofa body. The height of the head of the head can be taken arbitrarily, but it should also be proportionate to the common part of the bed. For example, if the level of the bed is 600 mm, then the overall height of the headboard will be 1 meter, i.e. + 400 mm.

Based on the above examples, you can set the following dimensions of the bed and the number of parts for its enclosure:

• Head: Length - 1432 mm, Height - 1000 mm (1 part);
• Opposite wall: length 1432 mm, height - 600 mm (1 part);
• Side parts: Length - 2032 mm (2 parts). The height of these parts depends on the material used and the model of the bed. As a rule, the height is 200-150 mm.

It is very important not to forget to calculate the internal plane from the rails to which the lamellas or a solid sheet of chipboard will be laid. Long side details must rest in the upper short. The upper and lower rails should be equal to the dimensions of the mattress, namely 1400 mm in length and 50 mm wide, side panels - 1968 mm by 50 mm, since it is necessary to subtract the width of small plays into which they rest (32 mm). Each item is needed in two copies.

Thus, the main body of the bed is calculated. Next, it is necessary to calculate the length and height of the internal racks that will additionally maintain the labeled lamella and mattress. It is very simple to make it, they will be equal to the main height of the bed (600 mm), and in length should correspond to the inner upper or lower support rail (1400 mm).

After all measurements and calculations, you can proceed to the implementation of the resulting drawing.

Step by step instructions

To independently make a quality bed at home, it is necessary to withstand a certain stitch and sequence. Next will be described in the phased construction of a standard double bed. For its foundation, high-quality wood will be required, for example, pine.

To work with wood, you will need a roulette, a construction pencil, a self-tapping screw with dimensions of 65 and 40 millimeters, metal corners for mounting 45-50 mm wide, cross screwdriver, hammer, small saw, sandpaper, joinery and pva.

Before buying wooden bars, it is necessary to make an accurate drawing with an indication of the scale and future holes for fasteners.

How to develop a drawing?

In order to draw a future bed in detail, a sheet of paper is needed (you can take with a millimeter distinguished for convenience), pencil and ruler. The first thing you need when developing is to decide on the bed model and the mattress, which will be collected by the frame. If you wish to create a nonstandard and unusual bed, you can make a mattress on your own. A simple model of a rectangular sleeping bed is designed easy.

The drawing must be performed in three copies: from above, side and front view.

On top view, the width and length of the housing through the inner walls are usually noted. Data directly depend on the dimensions of the selected mattress. In the picture, it is necessary to immediately mark the planned thickness of wooden bars, as well as their number. It is better to calculate in millimeters, since the more accurate calculations, the better the furniture will be. For the convenience of the wizard marked the locations of the place where the fastening corners will be located or screwed screws.

The side panels, as a rule, consist of two boards interconnected using a wader - this is a rounded cylindrical rods of about 1.5 cm in height and not more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next, there is a thrust transverse bar, and on the sides of 2 bar with screw holes or bolts for connecting with front panels. It is worth identifying the places of gluing and fastening. On the sight, name, namely, the headboard, you need to specify its height, width and number of boards necessary for its structure.

With the help of a clear and correctly executed drawing, you can calculate the number of necessary boards and fasteners for them, it will immediately be visible and the required amount will be visible to implement the project.

If the drawing fails, it is always possible to contact the furniture salon or workshop where they can tell and show how to do it.

For a double bed, you will need: for the main box and legs - the timber 50 by 50 mm with a length of 2200 mm of pine - 15 pieces. A pine board is also necessary (2000 mm per 100 mm thick 20 mm thick) in the amount of 22 pieces.

After collecting all major materials for work, you can also start assembling. If the boards are not processed, then it is necessary to cover the wood in advance to wood so that it does not mold and did not spoil during operation.

How to collect?

The standard main box has a height of 150 mm, and the timing width should be 50 mm. In this regard, it is necessary to glue 3 bars with each other. Next, the procedure is as follows:

• Connected surfaces are processed by glue and compressIt is advisable to put the cargo for a better drawing of materials. You should wait for a day until complete drying. The resulting item must once again measure and eliminate irregularities after sticking.
• For a holistic frame need: 2 side boards (length 2200 mm), another board (2100 mm) for longitudinal jumpers in the middle, as well as 2 wooden panels for the head and the end part (1610 mm per length each).

• For a reliable and durable corner connection at the edges of bars, a small fragment is scorn - 40-50 mm. As a result, the angles are firmly fasten, but parts still need to be lubricated with glue. Details also need to compress much either to press the load until the glue is completely frozen.
• There is another way to connect bars in the corners, Namely the inner gluing of the details curved in size. To do this, you need to pre-assemble a rectangular frame on the floor. Next, the end parts are labeled with glue and cuddled with both the side panels. After that, the bars are screwed to each other with self-draws for a reliable junction. Do not forget about the evenness of the corners so that the bed does not have a bevel.
• After the main box is glued and fixed, you can proceed to the installation of the internal rail-jumper. It is needed in order to give greater rigidity and strength of the product. It must be attached exactly in the middle, so the center of the box needs to be found on the reverse side, and not with external.

The correct position of the jumper is considered when it exactly coincides with the height and level of the future bed.

• After installing the central rail, you can start mounting stubborn bars 150 mm long. They will hold the central jumper in the smooth position. If these stops for some reason were not included in the drawing, they can be replaced with metal corners.
• When the frame is fully ready and fixed, it's time to mount legsIf they are in the idea. They are made from the same wooden cuts 50 by 50 mm of the same length. Length is selected under a person who will sleep on this bed. It is worthwhile to take into account the fact that the higher the legs, the unstable will be a sleeping place, but the optimal height will simply be completely cleaned.
• Painted supports first on glue in the corners, and then fixed by self-draws. The masters advise for greater reliability to strengthen the legs with metal corners, as well as make additional in the middle of the side panels for greater stability and the uniform distribution of the weight of the sleeping person. After the adhesive is dry, you can put the body with legs into normal position.

• On the sides of the bed of the bed at a pre-marked place in the drawing, internal rails are attached30-35 mm thick. They will serve as a future support for the beam overlaps, which, in turn, will support the mattress. Supports are placed in such a way that they are on the same level with the center partition.
• Next steps are the installation of supporting transverse beams. It is very important that they do not lie back to the side walls, as it can provoke the appearance of a screap when we go on the bed. Therefore, there must be a small space - 5 mm, which will provide their free location. Brous themselves should not be close to each other and secure. Ideally, the distance between the filament boards should be 30-50 mm. For reliability, transverse bars are mounted in 3 places with ordinary nails or self-drawing (so that there is no cracks, it is better to drill holes in advance for fasteners).

• After all the items are installed, time comes to remove errors, appeared during work. It can be the remnants of glue, cracks that need to sharpen or install a new bar, sanding burrs. You should not pass this item, since it depends on the aesthetics of the type and safety of the sleeping. If the initially purchased wood was not polished, then it must be made with a completely smooth, using a grinding machine or ordinary sandpaper.
• Ideally, a steering bed should be accelerated from sawdust and shallow shavings.. Next, you can already be laid. To do this, it is better to use a brush or a special sprayer. The most important thing is during the process to follow the safety rules and put on a respiratory mask in order not to imagine pairs. It is necessary to apply lacquer layers on both sides, as it protects the wood from the coredists and mold. Apply the next layer only after complete drying of the first.
• During the drying of the bed there is time for the manufacture of the back. It can have different shapes and sizes. The head of the head is semi-circular, rectangular, lattice, or not at all, but the bed with it looks more concise and is familiar. Make it very simple. You can take 2 or 3 bars, glue them with each other, put under the press and wait for a complete drying. The wood is then processed, like the rest of the bed, and is attached to the main box with the help of self-tapping screws or the same PVA glue.

• Sometimes the headboard is screwed or hanging on the hooks above the bedThis is an element of decor. In this case, you can cut to order an unusual pattern on a whole piece of wood. Such a back will be a wonderful and unusual addition of the bed.
• When all parts are installed, and the lacquer is completely pros, the time comes to put the mattress in your place. After that, the bed is ready for further operation. If you want the wooden bed to be original and unusual, then an interesting idea will be sheltered with her cloth.

How to seize cloth?

The process of trimming and decorating the bed is not complicated, but requires accuracy and accuracy of calculations. Before proceeding with the process, you need to decide on textiles and type of tightness.

There are several types of fabrics for decorating a sofa or bed:

• Flock. This coating has long been known and has a good reputation. The material is a nonwoven canvas with a pile of acrylic, viscose, cotton, etc., is very durable fabric in its characteristic, does not fade into the sun, and it is easy to clean it.
• Velours.The material is very pleasant to the touch, has a vertical pile structure. In its composition is dense and durable. Such an upholstery will last and delight with its practicality and price.
• Shenill.Such a canvas is created by the vault between the threads. The pile is acrylic, polyester, viscose or cotton. In terms of its characteristics, the material is very high quality and durable, give the bed an expensive look. The fabric does not attract dust and easy to care.
• Jacquard.It is a very beautiful, dense and unusual material. As a rule, it has a complex pattern that is done by silk threads. The fabric is multi-layered, so wear-resistant and well holds the specified form.
• Artificial leather.Modern leatherette, which is no worse in its qualities than genuine leather. The material will be pleasantly pleased with its price, a variety of crops and colors. Any contamination can be easily removed with a wet napkin.
• Leather.Leather canvas is very expensive and has a number of features. It must often be wiped with a wet towel and apply special wax, otherwise the skin will crack. Otherwise, this is high-quality and durable material.

After the bed collected, you can go to her trim:

• It will take for workdecorative fabric and simple (for inner parts), foam rubber or batting, specialized glue for furniture, scissors, construction stapler, hammer, decorative nails, roulette.
• Start work best with the head of the head If it is. It must be separated from the general building of the bed. Then the 5-centimeter foam rubber is taken and cut out according to it. The process itself is not easy, so it is better to use a joiner's knife. The finished cut is attached to the wood with glue. It is not necessary to apply it to the foam rubber, but on the front of the wooden panel. For greater strength edge, it is better to fix with a stapler.
• While the glue dries, you can cut the selected fabric for upholstery.It is very important that 10-15 cm allowed from each side. Material fasteners need to start with lower corners with a stapler, as it will then be easier to smooth fabric over the entire surface area. When the tissue is stretched, it's time to clog decorative nails, so that the bracket is not visible.
• When the headboard decoration is over, it's time to proceed to the main body.For the beginning, stripes from the foam rubber are prepared. They should be like the exterior sides of the skeleton of the bed. They are also attached to glue. In the place of fastening the headboard, the foam is not attached. Single frames can be used with technical cloth or decorative. The material is gradually stretched and attached with the same stapler.

• If it is technical tissue, then from above should be put on the case. It must be sewed necessarily with lightning or velcro so that it does not slip and easily put on.
• When the main box will be covered with cloth, You can mount the headboard.
• The above describes an example of a simple coating with decorative cloth, But there are other methods of textile upholstery. The most popular and fashionable today is a carriage screed bed. As a rule, only the headboard is decorated, but you can and all sleeping place.
• It will take for work Folon thickness from 5 cm, frame of plywood shaped bed, carbon black, scissors, upholstery fabric, decorative buttons, or cloves, 2 thick needles, drill with a round nozzle and stapler.
• First of all, it is necessary to make marking on the foamin the form of identical squares, rectangles or rhombuses. After that, it is glued to the plywood. At docking points of rhombuses or squares, it is necessary to do round holes with a drill. The diameter must be about 10 mm.
• An overlap material is superimposed. Next, needles are taken, and with their help, decorative buttons are sewn through the fabric and wells and neat folds are formed at the same time, which are fixed at the ends of the case. It should be stuck in slow and gently, otherwise the tissue can occur, and then you have to redo the job first.

Spectacular examples in the interior

If it was decided to make a homemade bed in the bedroom, then this does not mean that it should be boring and ordinary. An independent manufacture of originally implies a certain proportion of creativity and creativity in the work. This is especially true for baby cots.

This image shows that the profile bed is not only a place to relax, but also a small area for entertainment in the form of a slide, a Swedish wall and a rope.

And on this example you can see the dream of many children. The bed is made in the form of a house where it is always calm and you can not be afraid of monsters under the bed.

According to the image it is clear that this room is already an adult child. The sleeping place is very functional, it is easy to clean and it will not take unnecessary space. For a more adult generation, a more ergonomic bed is suitable on which you can sleep comfortably, and also to hide it inwards until necessary.

Magic lovers and miracles can embody a steer bed. It is quite simple, but the result will be happy every time and inspire new accomplishments.

In furniture stores, the range of furniture presented is huge. However, its cost is high enough, a bed of high-quality wood is especially expensive. In some cases, it is not at all necessary to spend large sums on the furniture kits, a great solution to this task will be the wooden bed made with your own hands.

Types of beds

Models of beds are different, many of them are not like each other. They differ not only by material and sizes, but also by their destination. Wooden beds are most in demand, as the tree is natural, eco-friendly material. For the manufacture of this type of furniture, such as nut, cherry, beech, maple, pine, birch or oak are used. Almost any model of wood can be done by himself, let it be a children's wooden bed, with their own hands made, the bed-attic, transformer, bunk design and so on.

Beds are single, double, one-time. The single-bag has a width of no more than one meter, one-time - from 110-160 cm, double - from 180 to 220 cm.

Dimensions

It is important to understand that for any basis in the construction of the bed always takes the classic option. The first step when wooden beds are created with their own hands, is the process definition of the sizes of the future design for sleep. The easiest way to build a bed under a certain size of the mattress, and not vice versa. Basically, all store products have standard dimensions. Consider the stages of the independent production of the bed at the most common mattress size variant - 200x155 cm.

Required Material

To begin with, we will define what the bed consists of. In its designs there are a framework and a frame on which the mattress is put on. The first consists of backs and side sides-panels. Before making a wooden bed with your own hands, you need to stock the materials necessary for work. The main thing is to use only dry material:

1. Boards 250x30 cm thick 2.5 cm in the amount of 2 pcs. For the manufacture of lateral walls of the bed.

2. Boards 200x30 cm (3 pieces) for the manufacture of rear and front walls, headboard.

3. 200 cm measuring 4x4 cm in an amount of 5 pieces - for bearing legs and supports.

4. Rakes 150 cm long, 2.5 cm thick are used for fastening the head of the head of the headboard, for the rush coating - 27 pcs. Sometimes a thick phaneer can be used instead of the rail.

5. Self-tapping screws.

6. Morilka.

7. Polyurethane lacquer, carpentry glue.

Instruments

Independent production of the bed - the process is not particularly complex, but a rather time-consuming, occupying a certain time. With this task, any person will cope with at least some idea of \u200b\u200bworking with a tree. It is clear that the manufacture of a wooden bed with your own hands requires the use of some tools. Here they are:

Hacksaw;

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Electrolovik;

Sandpaper;

Measuring instruments or devices;

Pencil.

Preparatory stage

Starting any business, it is important to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should happen. This also applies to the case when a wooden bed is made with their own hands. Drawings and sketches should be prepared in advance. All sizes will be indicated there. Having a competently compiled drawing, you can easily and quickly calculate the required amount of material.

As mentioned above, the bed will be constructed, based on the size of the mattress. It should be in bed like in a cell, that is, the internal sizes of the frame must be equal to the sizes of the mattress.

Prepare all the necessary tools and materials, it is necessary to make the markup of materials for their further saw. Lines for sawing should be applied with a pencil or cutter on the line. To facilitate work when creating two or three identical parts, you can only cut one and then use it as a template. All surfaces after sawing are carefully processed by sandpaper.

Making framework

The direct manufacturing process includes a mattress measurement. In accordance with the dimensions, it is necessary to cut off a pair of end and a pair of long (for sidewalls bed) boards. Prepared details are collected in rectangles and fasten with the help of lycs or wooden spikes. The connection must be a W-type. Holes can be hollowed by a bit, some cut them with a jigsaw. The width of the groove should be at least 20-30 mm, and the depth is 50 mm. Spikes or eyelashes need to be lubricated with joinery glue, then combine and align them at an angle of 90 degrees. Then the elements should be fixed using a special device to complete drying.

When wooden bunk beds are manufactured with their own hands, the same bed is taken as the basis. Assembly and manufacture was described in this article above.

A wooden bed with such a frame is a reliable and high-quality product, this is an example of a traditional joinery, as its experienced joiners are called. If it is impossible to make eyelashes, it is possible to use a thorny mount to connect wooden parts. When wooden beds are made with their own hands, in the end sides of the conjugated surfaces of the boards, the holes are made, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the spike. Spikes and holes are lubricated with glue and collected.

The easiest way of connecting wooden bed frame parts is a screw with an additional fastening with a metal corner.

Assembling lamella carcass

Lamp frame, grille or grid is a design to support the mattress. Thanks to its presence, the mattress will not fall on the floor, to deform or pushed inside. In the process of manufacturing sleeping furniture, including when the bed is constructed a double wooden bed with their own hands, you will need a rail. It must be fill on the inside of the frame on the end and side boards. Next, it is necessary to make markup in height - at least 10 cm from the top edge. Rake is attached to a dotted or solid line around the perimeter. In this case, the frame is also suitable and the frame must have at least one partition that will support the mattress, even if it has its own rigid frame. And if the frameless design is used, then the bottom of the bed must be solid. Before making a wooden bed with your own hands, you need to make a frame for lamellas from a bar. It is fixed on the inner size of the bed design. The rake is risked across the bed lengths with a step of 5-7 cm.

Backrest and legs beds

In order to make a back of bed, you need to cut the board of the desired size and configuration. The ends are treated with sandpaper and screw the contacts in the contact location, having previously lubricated them with carbon black glue. You can order a backrest for the head of and flying in a joinery workshop with an individual carved decor. Next, wooden beds are installed on reliable and durable legs. Their height depends on the individual preferences of the wizard, from the design of the interior of the room, as well as from the possibility of using free space under the bed, etc.

For the manufacture of legs, bars are used, they can be both square and round. The legs are mounted in the corners of the bed furniture. They can be installed inside or outside, as well as inserted into in the last embodiment, you need to use a more reliable studded fastening. It is necessary to ensure that the top edge of the legs does not perform above partitions.

The final stage

The finish coating that wooden beds will be made, with their own hands made, should be perfectly harmonized with the surrounding environment and fit into the interior.

At the beginning of work, it is necessary to carefully handle the whole camp of the bed, then soak the entire surface of the oil and to cover the paint. To make sleeping furniture of the desired shade or color, its frame is separated by a special veil. It will give the necessary shade. Then after its drying, it will be possible to cover the bed with a varnish with a brush or roller. Varnish is recommended to apply in several layers. The dried surface is desirable to polish the felt. Some use felt.

When the work on the production of bed is carried out on a pre-prepared drawing or scheme, there are no special problems with the assembly or operation of the product. Wood-created wooden bed will delight its owner not one year.

On the Internet a lot of recipes, how to make a bed yourself. We will not repeat them. We will tell you how to make a bed with our own hands, which, like an old, can go to children and grandchildren, withstanding everything that happens on it. But this bed will cost it hardly more expensive than the cheapest purchased, and anything and materials will go to it. True, time will need 10 days, due to the necessary technological breaks.

This bed is wooden, made exclusively from environmentally friendly materials. When assembling once, nitroles are used in small quantities, and basically a completely harmless PVA. Looking a finished product will be about the way as shown in the picture. The shape and design of the head of the collapse - at your discretion; Parameters and quality of all designs They do not depend on them.
Our double bed has another feature: the complete absence of the appointments visible to the eye - fasteners, brackets, etc. and their minimum quantity. In the creation of the bed, some design and technological techniques of wooden aircraft were used, which at the dawn of his era also a lot of things borrowed from furniture makers.

Next, consider how based on the same designs Make the bed itself with drawers and the podium bed. Then, using the same design principles and working techniques, get to beds of other species.

Materials

Details of the bed, "looking out", are made of MDF with a texture of valuable wood or laminate; It is a thickness of 20-30 mm. If comic fights with pillows, etc. Stormy events from the owners are not in the factory, it is quite possible to do with 16 mm workpieces. It is preferable to MDF - it is not laminated, and this will allow you to do without nitroke and all assembled on PVA; Laminated surfaces it does not glue. Internal parts are made of wood or plywood with a thickness of 10-20 mm.

Let's just say - the workpiece or MDF or laminate is easier and cheaper to order in the nearest furniture workshop. To buy sheets itself at a retail price will cost much more expensive. The furniture makers will be squeezed precisely in size and climb - cover the ends PVC to the tone texture or contrast, as you wish. Edge thickness - 0.2-2 mm.

From the sawn timber, you will need to purchase a timber 50x50 mm, approximately 8-8.5 m (can pieces), a couple of boards (30-40) x100 mm, be sure to solid, 2 m long. On the flooring of the bed (see below) will need boards 20x100 mm, a dozen-one and a half pieces of 1.6 m long or ordinary building plywood, from tens to twenty, 2000x1600 mm. Boards are preferable, they are cheaper, and the dimensions of the standard sheet of plywood with dimensions of the bed are consistently consistent.

All sawn timber - edged, planed. Wooden breed - any. An independent additional processing, except for sawing in the size and sample of quarters and grooves, is not required.

Note: For beds with drawers (see Next) you will need chipboard. You can take any cheapest; Details from it are loaded only on compression and a little. But for the flooring, the Lyzhka chipboard will not go in any way, she is not elastic.

Fastener

Dear special fittings: minifixes, confirmates, eccentric regulators, etc. in the described designs Not applicable. At the same time, its strength and durability are above serial samples, and weight is less. It became possible to achieve this thanks to the technology of manufacturing with rather long breaks. Professional furniture makers need to quickly collect products for sale in accordance with quality standards, otherwise they will run out. And a homemade bed can and wait until it is brought to full condition. Using this circumstance, and managed to get the design easier, cheaper and better factory.

Fasteners you will need the following:

1. Self-timber 5-6 mm, ordinary phosphatated (black, cheapest). Length - the sum of the thickness of the parts connected minus 10 mm. How many of what specifically - is calculated according to the designs selected from the following described.
2. Nails 60-70 mm.
3. Steel corners with rigidity.

Note: because All connections are made with sizing, the very best self-tapping screws are phosphated, their surface is slightly rough. On a smooth brilliant fastener, PVA will be worse.

Special attention should be paid to the corners. First, the edge of stiffness. It should be wide and rounded, as shown in the figure. Secondly, the surface of the bend and stopping should be completely smooth. Bakers, ripples - a sign of raw, and then thinned and pulled metal. Such corners are prone to fatigue and can crack without any visible cause.

Connections

All connections are said to be performed with sizing. A glue (on both) is applied to the flat surface with a sausage zigzag (on both), accelerated by a small gear spatula. Then it is maintained to a liquid lowlight (3-10 minutes), the parts are assembled into the node and tightened with metal fasteners, too, see below.

Selfless

Under the screws in advance, on dry items, the deaf holes are drilled. Depth - 2/3 of the length of the self-press. Diameter - 3/4 of the thickness of the body of self-threadless bodies. For 5 mm screws, it will be 2.5 mm; For 6 mm - 3 mm. To accurately conjugate the holes in the precast nodes, the parts are temporarily bonded by clamps, at the ends and between the edges of one by 0.5 m.

Example of calculation: Suppose the frame of the frame with a kinga of 20 mm MDF is connected, see below. Total thickness - 70 mm. Self-tapping screws are needed by 10 mm in short, see above; We take 6x60 mm. Holes under them make a depth of 40 mm. Bar-fifty at the same time will not pass through. So, glued and drive the screws, too, with clamps.

Note: In the factory, the bar would drill through, and still twisted in a vgouli retaliatory board. But this is only for the sake of speed and simplicity of assembly. The connection is highly weakened. For yourself it is better to do painstaking, but much stronger. Also, by the way, the best masters make and exclusive to order.

Next, in the deaf hole, let me drop the area of \u200b\u200bthe water-polymer emulsion. When it is absorbed (this is a few minutes), we wrap up from the inside of PVA. Then, we apply glue on the plane, as described above, squeeze the parts of the clamps and drive dry tapping screws. It makes no sense to apply adhesive on the thread - it is frozen on the carving outwards. Glue in the hole Self-tapping screw will be in a tree; In his array, something like a glue pear is formed, firmly holding the detail, as anchor. Clamps can be removed after the assembly.

Notes:

1. We saw screwed screws in the crashing old furniture dropping out of a tree with a thread with a crumb church or fiberboard? They were drunk, masque in glue, and not to miss the holes from the inside.
2. Water-polymer emulsion small packages are not for sale, a glass-and-a half will be required on the bed. Therefore, instead of it weaving with water 3-5 times, until translucent and aqueous fluid, a little PVA. We are preparing small portions as needed: the homemade emulsion is not stored even in a closed container.

Nails

For nails, you do not need to choke in advance: we glue the parts under the oppression or in the clamps, then they feed the nails. But two nuances still have:

• Nails must be taken with an annular notch (see Fig. Right). It is with a ring, not spiral or point.
• You need to score after 12-16 hours. After gluing; Preferably - without removing the clamp or apt. If the place under the nail is covered, then, removing the clamp and scoring, squeeze the parts again until the expiration of the day-two from gluing.

The meaning here is that the notch of the nail drove into the wood the absence of the remnants of the glue. Then, while drying the tree, the nail will still hold on hard.

Sucks and copper

Sucks saw, probably, everything, not knowing what it is. Wanks - a round wooden boss in two deaf wells, connecting wooden details. The duct connections are extremely widely used in furniture and joinery, but, alas, we lose weight and stop keeping. For longevity for generation, the specks need to be replaced by anticipation. In mass production, not in the go, the production process slows down and the cost of production is inconspicable.

How the sewage is obtained from the sewage, it is shown on the left position of the drawing to the right:

1. The hole from the inside soak emulsion and misses glue;
2. In the ends of the bobbish, just not falling out, drive (caught) with a thickness of about 1 mm from solid wood or fiberglass;
3. Agel (already agel) I scored in the hole in Cyanka;
4. I am stirred by the same clins on the protruding surface of the brace;
5. I soak and miss the response well;
6. We put on the conjugate detail and the Cyanka bearing to a dense landing.

The most important condition for the reliability of the connection - the wedge should be focused across the fibers of wood, the left pos. on the image. If the parts are connected at an angle - on the bisector of the angle. When connecting at right angles - with a turn by 45 degrees to any side. In this case, the wedges from different sides of the brace must be oriented perpendicular to each other.

The maximum allowable diameter of the bobbish is half the thickness of the board or the smallest size of the parts connected. The minimum is 5% of the width of the board, but not less than 5 mm. Thus, for the 30x200 board, there are 10-12 mm buses, and for the 50x50 bars - 15-20 mm. Length of bobies - 2-3 of their diameter. The depth of the response well in the thin part is half of its thickness.

Magnificent connections are kept and smoking with decades in the most severe operating conditions. And with the sickness and home - for generations, and wood can be not weathered low quality, i.e. cheap.

For your information : Dragkars and Knorra Vikings, kogia of the Hanseatic merchants and Pomeranian Kochi were stuck. Shipes of the South Seas preferred bronze and red nails. Slowing copper compounds in the water to some extent scared the drillrs and processes, who are sissed in warm waters and rampate.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the bed of a double bed for considerations of ergonomics are recommended 2 m length and 1.6 m width. They may be increased to 2.4x2 m; It is even more difficult to do, using conventional technological techniques and structural materials.

A standard single bed is 1.9-2 m long and a width of 0.9 m. At such a case, people of the usual set are placed together and together. The width with a lack of space can be reduced to such an wagon shelf - 550 mm. But at the same time there must be a side fence even by the bed for adults.

The height of the bed of beds (on top of the mattress) - within 350-500 mm, depending on the growth and physique of the owner. The upper limit is better suitable for those who have a little shin of hips, and vice versa. Fashionable "Japanese" beds with a height of 220-260 mm - only fashion. The thickness of the layer of the greatest dusting of air in the room is 200-300 mm from the floor. Therefore, children's and teen beds should also be an adult overall height, the smallest for convenience needs to make a blindfold.

The height of the bed is distributed as follows: 180-300 mm - mattress, 150-200 mm - Tsargi, the rest is a subcreational space. It may turn out to be close to 0. In this case, you need to make a bed with drawers: without ventilation from under the bottom, the bed will soon fall, it will start using miasma, and it will become a sticky to the touch. The minimum height of the subcutric space is 80 mm.

Mattress

The lion's share of the cost-made bed falls on the mattress. Because of it, there may be problems when designing a bed. Finally, if you do the bed yourself, then the convenience must be absolute, and the purchase of the mattress needs to be taken dear. Therefore, we'll figure it out how to lay the finished mattress on a sun bed without difficulties, or how to do it yourself, not inferior to the best orthopedic.

A warning: the self-made mattress is completely individual, and only for adults over 25 years old, whose bones are completely inflated and stopped growing, and which are able to sort out their feelings and correct them to interpret them. Children's bed should be equipped with a special mattress of factory manufacture, otherwise visits to orthopedics with appropriate costs are very likely. The high price of orthopedic mattresses is just explained by the fact that they need to be made suitable for people of different growth, weight and complex.

Laying

Usually the mattress is just put in the lodgement - the deepening formed by the flooring of the bed and sides of the sidewalls beds - the CARG, on the left in Fig. If such a laying method is assumed, then before you get behind the bed, you need to buy a mattress. The dimensions of the branded even from one batch may differ from the standard 2000x1600 mm on a plus minus 10 mm. In the case of misses, the mattress either does not fit into the lodgement, or there will be a wide gap-garbage collector around the perimeter.

Note: the clearance around the perimeter of the mattress is still necessary for the convenience of gas stations. But not more than 3-4 mm. This must be taken into account when calculating the size of the homemade bed.

Grinding on the bed with a mattress in the Lentent, sometimes you have to accumulate on the side of the side. It is unpleasant, and maybe it may be painful if you have to bone the legs or ankle. Therefore, often the flooring of the bed is raised to the level of the top of the Tsarg (for this you have to shift up a bar frame, see below) and all the bed are performed in the width of the mattress, right in fig. From slaughtering the mattress is protected by bobbers-locks from wood waste, plywood, drywall, eppts. Fully soft mattress locks are glued; To the mattress with a hard base - attach with self-drawing or nailed. Under the locks in the flooring of the sun bed drilled holes or drink openings.

Homemade

Making a self-made mattress elementary: foamonal of different brands with mosaic layers, PVA glue - and that's it. The foam rubber will need three marks: 45 - the most dense and elastic, 35 - medium elasticity, 25 - soft. Number of layers 6. The overall height of the mattress is increased against a standard 180-200 mm, it is necessary to compensate for the height of the CARG and the legs. The design of the mattress is clear from the drawing, there is also shown, on which parts of the body, what the inner unit should have.

Note: layers and their blocks are glued along the entire plane, for ventilation. It is necessary to glue the envelope; At least 60% of horizontal areas should remain free. And no more than 80% - for strength.

The quality of the foam rubber when buying is checked "on the shooting": compress to the limit to the limit and dramatically release. Stringing material must instantly, after the fingers. If it is noticeable gradually the disappearance of the wpina - the foam rubber is suitable for anything other than the mattress.

The location of the internal stops from the dense foam rubber is determined individually. Experimental equipment - 4 pillows covered with a cotton blanket or 2-3 jacquard. For a paired mattress, the explanatory emphasis is facilitated by the convenience of the beautiful half (it is assumed that the pair is normal and partner lower). With a significant difference in the growth of the headboard stop need to be sorted. Dense sidewalls of the 4th layer prevent the sleeping rolling.

Double simple

Elements designs

The bed with a look outside is a rectangular frame of two backs, headboard with plunge, and sidewalls - Tsarg. Inside, one integer with the backs and kings is the carrier of the bars frame. In a wide bed, there are also longitudinal elements of rigidity - spars, one or more. The bars frame is closed with a decidant from boards or plywood (see Fig.), Forming a flat plane - lying bed or deepening-lodge. In the flooring there must be slots or holes for ventilation. This information is enough to build a bed itself. Let's proceed.

Notes:

1. Sometimes recommended deflection Sun bed up - archaism. So they did during the time when the sun beds were covered with mattresses and perins, completely unrelated elasticity. Any modern mattress is still a flat sun bed or curved. But the curved is more difficult and more expensive.
2. The diameter of the holes in the plywood bed - 30-40 mm. The slots in the milk - width of thickness up to the width of the board. The first is stronger, but the boards need more. For myself, we look at the cumulative weight of the lying: up to 140 kg of the slit maximum; 180 and more - minimal.

About corners and impudent

The most responsible and most loaded places of the bed - corners. Therefore, the details of the beds in the corners are connected in one twice: brazen in boards and quarters of the bar frame. The wells under the brazing should coincide exactly, so they are placed during the pre-assembly process, see below.

Back

The backing design is shown in the figure. The top can be anyone, in your taste. The transverse timber 50x50 is mounted with glue and self-drawing. Glue - PVA for backs from MDF or "moment", etc. For laminate. Cutouts in the center - under the mustache of the spar, see below, a depth of 25 and a width of 40 mm. The distance between the inner edges of the cuts is 50 or 40 mm, depending on which trimming will go on the conversation rigidity of the spar, also see below.

This back is rigid. Soft back (which is definitely as convenient) - a special, quite complex design, and the conversation about it is needed special. Back Thickness - 24-40 mm. Lower importance refers to customs from laminate / MDF; More - to homemade set of planed boards. In this case, it is collected by a plywood of two shields of 20 mm thick, the boards in which perpendicular to each other are oriented. Glued throughout the plane of the PVA, overclocked by the toothed spatula. The week is dried under the total weight of at least 80 kg through the entire plane. Morilka color several times to the desired tone or drying; Then the texture of the tree is highlighted.

Length of timber and depends on the size and method of laying the mattress. If it is placed in the lodge, it is equal to its width plus 6-10 mm. For standard double, respectively, 1606-1610 mm. If the mattress is superimposed on the sun bed, then it will be its width minus the double thickness of the challenges of the CARG and minus another 10 mm. For the standard mattress and the Tsarg from the forties - 1600- (2x40) -10 \u003d 1510 mm.

The width of the back for the head of the headboard is any no less mattress width plus the double thickness of the CARG (mattress in the lodgement) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on the sun bed). The width is squinting - exactly the width of the mattress plus the double thickness of the CARG (mattress in the lodge) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (the mattress on the sun bed). Flying, exhausted even slightly, significantly worsens the convenience of the bed. Doing his high or brown with sidewalls is a master's business.

The design shown does not require legs. The neckline is also not required - on the smooth floor, the headboard will become all the bottom ends. It will only simplify the work and reduce the muddle under the bed. If the legs still want to, they need to be substituted under the corners of the bar frame, for glue or grabbing a pair of nails without much effort. All load on the legs are top. Known beds, decades standing on bricks and books. What is certainly barbarism, but they do not fall.

Tsargi.

The design of the Tsarps is also clear from the picture: this is a T-shaped beam from a bruse-fifty and boards of 20-40 mm. Assembly - on glue and self-drawing, as already described. Length of timber and boards are the same; The described bed does not require complex calculations of grooves and cutouts. Burbs of copper are shown conditionally, they are put after preliminary assembly.

For the CARD boards, it is not necessary to order sawing from furniture makers. A edged planed board, thirty or fortification, 150-200 mm width. Paint it in advance by a verse or dry, as described. From the inside you can not paint, the beds are only easier to breathe.

The tsargi of old beds are genuine works of decorative art, but modern furniture is designed based on the principles of minimalism. Low kings in any interior in the eyes are not thrown, so the varnishing, polishing and in general the decor is not needed for them, if only in the tone.

Note: for the sake of simplicity of work and save, they often make the same on the design as the Tsargi. In this case, it should be somehow trimmed: lacquered, laminated; This item is immediately visible. Then the feet behind the feet are needed, for the sake of general design and relief cleaning, see fig. on right. How to attach legs - described earlier.

The location of the bar in height is possible twofold. For a mattress in the petrode, the vertex of the vertex of timber from the top of the board is 30-50 mm (this is the deepening of the mattress in the lodgement) plus 20 mm, if the sleeping is a booze, or plywood thickness (12-20 mm), if it is plywood. For a mattress on a sun bed, an indent of the top of the board is equal to the thickness of the floor, or even 2-3 mm less, so that the edge of the mattress is not wiped about the challenge of the Tsarg.

Longeron.

The type of base for the bed in the plan is shown in the figure. Possible locations of the mattress locks are shown conditionally. The openings under the clamps are selected already in the rank of bed. For reliable fixation, you need 4 in the corners or 2 between the shelves of the spar. For a mattress in the lodgment, the locks are not needed at all.

The spar is in the picture a longitudinal connection in the middle. Typically, there are three spars in a double bed, each of the same 40x100 mm boards. The proposed design is similar to the spar of the wooden wing of the aircraft. It is stronger, tougher and allows you to do without the two such boards.

Inserts of transverse rigidity between the shelves - from cropping the same board or timber from the frame. There must be 4-7 along the length of the spar, evenly distributed. In the ends of the shelves, a quarter to Usa 25x50 mm are selected, under cutouts in the transverse bars of the frame. The top of the shelves of the side member and the bars frame should form one plane.

College and nails collected. 4 nails are needed for each insert; 2 diagonally on each side. Diagonal from different sides - in advance.

Build bed

Preliminary

For the manufacture of elements of the backrest frame (popping up - already with legs, if so conceived) put vertically, rescued with stools or boxes. Then the tsargs are imposed and the rectangles of the frame on the diagonals are unintected. Watch up the assembly of the rope, once again check the diagonals and flatter the frame.

Now you need to place places under the brazing, connecting the chambers of the CARG with the backs. For this, the pencil from the inside is stuck in the corners of the line from the boards on the back, taking a pre-height; We need 2 braided on the end. Indent from top and bottom - half the distance between the buses, i.e. The width of the board is divided by 4, 1/4 of the top and bottom; Between buses - 2/4.

Remove the kings and drills in the ends of the boards of the wells. I smear the ends of the boards of easily flushing paint around the holes (you can fill with a felt-tip pen), slightly push the backs (the assistant needs it), put the kings to the place, and tightly compress the backs; Rectangle is not necessary here. Where you need a retaliatory wells, now it is immediately visible. If it is not enough, you can wash off and repeat, but for all holes immediately.

Frame

Now we choose the wells in the backs and collect the base so far only on the brazings of the boards / backs, as described above, and with the sizing of quarters of the bar. Those., We rob in the ends of the boards on the glue, lubricate the holes in the backs and a quarter of the bars, dried up to a wet turning and in Cyanka to bring back to the kings to a dense landing. After that, the frame must be covered, but not a cloth.

For rubbing the frame at its corners and the mid-sides, we put the pieces of packaging cardboard and all tightly wind up the rope three. The node should have to the middle of the width of the head of the head of the head of the head. Here again without assistant can not do.

Then the turns evenly push the width of the Tsarg boards and in the middle of all four sides we will apply trimming pipes or trees of equal diameter. It can be within 20-80 mm, depending on how tight rope stretched, but for all the same. Immediately until the glue began to gently be gelatinized, we twist the rectangles on the diagonals, flatter, while the frame walks across, and dry, not touching, 2-4 days.

Council: If earlier nothing was so tightened, practice on a dry frame, pick up crazy, and only then collect without glue.

The meaning of this operation illustrates the scheme in rice, known from the school courage to physics. A small tension in the transverse direction according to the rule of the parallelogram gives a large tight effort along the rope, and the frame will take place to the limit that it is necessary for strength and stiffness after the final assembly.

Information note: This way of creating great efforts is well known in army practice for pulling out the sowing equipment. The winch cable of the machine is driving around the tree, overlap with a hook. Then the winch includes at winding, and the fighter pulls the battle cable over the middle. One salad bowl for 10-15 minutes pulls out of the swamp or inappropriate sand ZIL-131 with kung shared weight in 12 tons. And without suspended, the winch will stop, barely cable went to the vague.

After drying in the corners of the bar frame, drills the holes under the ladder brave and put them, also for glue. Then try on the place of the spar; Customize if necessary. Lubricate its mustache and cut cuts in the bars, put in place and do become steel corners, as shown in the figure. For each wing, the corner is needed by 3 screws.

All these operations produce without removing tights. It is removed after 2-3 days after installing the spar. Then reinforce the spar with steel corners according to the scheme in Fig. Now the basis is ready, and it remains very little.

Lyzhak

What is done by the flooring sunbed, already said. Fastened to the frame on the glue and nails. Sick up necessarily: the flooring not only keeps the mattress, but also plays an important role in the general mechanics designs.

For the board, laying enough boards 20x (80-100). You can take and thoroughly, weaker will not be only harder. But it is necessary to determine the thickness of the flooring at once to correctly calculate the location of the frame of the frame.

On each board you need 8 nails: 2 on the edges and 2 for each intersection with the shelves of the spar. If fanny flooring, then the nails are driven into the corners (fell on the brazier - nothing terrible) and in the mustache shelves of the spar. Then the "nails" around the perimeter and the axes of the shelves of the side member with a step of 80-120 mm.

We are still waiting for a day, two, we put the mattress, Stelim - the bed is ready! You can update any imaginary way.

With boxes

Bed frame diagram with drawers is shown in the figure. Since the Tsarg, and their boards that provide rigidity, there is no strength and stability are provided by additional beams from the floor height to the plane of laying the mattress, i.e. Before the top of the Bruschev Rama. The beams work only on compression, so the material for them is the cheapest: chipboard 20 mm, etc.

In places of intersections with shelves and bars in the beams, appropriate cuts are made. Shelves and bars remain solid, otherwise the design will weaken. The beams are inserted into places, turning the frame. Align in boxes, drip in junctions on a pair of PVA droplets and dried an hour and a half. Then turn over (the glue is only needed so that the beams do not fall out), once again check the "on the box" and fasten the corners according to the scheme.

After that, the box fittings are installed: Slades, rollers. Mounted flooring - the bed is ready.

Notes:

1. The dimensions of the beds described can be increased to 2.4 x 2 m without changes in the design. Such beds lovers of "Strawberries" are called Swedish. Perhaps associated with the Swedish Troika.
2. The spar of the single-type single bed can be made of a single board of 40 x 100 mm.

Generally speaking, a podium bed is any without a subcreational space, with or without boxes. But fashion is fashion; It is believed that the podium bed is a bed with a rigid decorative frame around the lifted, with drawers or without, as in Fig. There is no point here is not viewed here, only the living space is selected. But - Fashion is fashion. In the end, and in the frame you can store something, and drawers arrange.

Blueprints The podium bed is shown in the picture. Sizes Author designs Dases in centimeters. Strength and performance are satisfactory. But wooden boards will no longer go to her, you need laminate, MDF or plywood. And the accuracy of sawing blanks is needed high, plus-minus 0.5 mm. The assembly specification is listed under the drawing.

• A - side panel 1910x330 mm.
• B, C - headboard panels, 2 pcs. 1650х330 mm.
• D - Planck 1932x150 mm.
• E is the same, 1710x150 mm.
• F - top panels of boxes, 2 pcs. 953x320 mm.
• G - crossing 1910x100 mm.
• H - sidewalls backs, 2 pcs. 330x100 mm.
• I - long-range walls of boxes, 2 pcs. 778х240 mm.
• J - sidewalls boxes, 4 pcs. 760x240 mm.
• K - Internal panels, 2 pcs. 1910x330 mm.
• L - back, 1606x330 mm.
• M - central panels, 2 pcs. 1479x272 mm.
• N - accenes in the central block, 2 pcs. 272x42 mm.
• O - Podium partitions, 8 pcs. 330x81 mm.
• P - the bottom of the boxes, 788x748 mm.

Details A - H are made from a 22 mm board; I - J from a 16 mm board; K - o from chipboard 19 mm, and P is from 10 mm plywood. In addition, there will be 27x27 mm for transverse and 27x47 mm for longitudinal mattress supports; Flooring Supitsa is not provided. In general, it is still complicated.

Bunk

The varieties of two-story beds are on sale, and no wonder: the product is very in demand, given the lack of living space and the desire of many of the second child, heated by the benefits. The bunk bed, shown in the figure on the right, is different from other things that can be made independently at a minimum of costs and skills.

Note: remember about homemade mattresses! More precisely - forget. Experiments with not yet formed bones are fraught with defects of the child's musculoskeletal system!

The raisin of this bed is in designs Corner racks, the lowest place of all bunk beds. In this case (see Figure. Right) They are made each of the two boards without cutting and outdoor fasteners. The rigidity and support of the bars frames are provided by segments of the usual floor plinth on the glue and self-drawing; The bog of the boards is also sick. The bottom of the upper frame so that the eyes of the corner and the heads of the screws do not cure, sewers with a thin fiberboard with a decorative coating on the glue and small cloves.

Bed width The figure shows the minimum allowable; It can be increased to 710 mm. It is impossible to do even wider, the principle of assembly does not allow to get the right strength. Length is the maximum allowable, based on increased. Small, unlike adults, do not worry at all, if you have to sleep on too much a fanger.

Attic

Another sought-after bedroom product is the attic bed. It is usually suitable in niche, see fig. Purchased are rather complicated (and expensive) design with metal elements of strength. But it is not inferior to them in the fortress the pallet under the mattress can be made from the same bruse-fifty and plywood 20 mm, see fig. on right. Pay attention to the order of the sink of bars on the ends, it must be observed.

The plywood casing from above and below is needed whole. Since the dimensions of the standard plywood sheet are not sufficient for the span, each shield is collected from two parts on nails and glue using slats-Kosnok from the same plywood width in 60-80 mm and the internal size of the frame cell. Kosinki will be inward; To the frame of the shields are attached with samples with sizing, as described first, with a step of 60-80 mm.

When installing in a niche, the pallet is mounted on a rectangular frame from a steel corner of 80-100 mm. The staircase is extremely desirable to make steel and use as an additional support: welded to the frame and with "pyataks" on the floor. Suspension for an angle or two needs to be done supporting: bracket, as in Fig, a trigger of a triangular corner in the corners, through bolts 12-16 mm with washers 60-80 mm with a diameter under heads.

Fastening racks to the ceiling - from a steel pipe of at least 30 mm with a welded above flanges. The mount of each stand to the ceiling is not less than 3 points that are evenly distributed around the circle or the perimeter of the flange, 10-12 mm bolts in steel anchor cols. In this case, if one bolt will weaken, others will go in advance and will still keep, and oblique gap will immediately give you to know what is necessary. When attaching one point or several in the line, a sudden collapse is not excluded.

Notes:

1. Do not seduce the hooks for the chandelier, at least they held on that and tons. The chandelier is not climbing every evening in his place and is not descended in the morning from there. And she does not turn around and does not dare in a dream.
2. And the most important thing is before being taken for the attic bed, make sure that the walls and the ceiling will stand it out!

Otkidnaya

The folding bed is relevant for adults living in cramped conditions. There is a folding mechanisms on sale (see fig), allowing to make such a thing. The legs (down on the left pos. Fig. And on the right on the central) lean under the action of their own weight. The mattress, naturally, is needed with hard base.

The requirements for the support are indicated in the specification to the mechanism, but they are low and allow you to install a bed in rooms with conventional walls and floors. The principle of operation of the mechanism is that the force circulates inside it and a little transmitted to the outer surfaces.

Choosing a mechanism, you need to pay attention to the device of dampers, gaslift them or spring. The first work smoothly if the weight of the frame with the mattress is within certain limits. If he is more, the frame will be tight out of the niche, and immediately squeeze and bryakat, but there is no adjustment. Spring dampers are more expensive, but are regulated in place under the weight of bed.

There are on sale and ready-made frames with a mattress, see fig. left. Such remains only to attach to the floor, but the price is less than 10,000 rubles. You can't buy a good.

To install the folding beds described above, a wardrobe is needed: the legs spoil the look, and they cannot be hidden, they should not be folded. There are still soaring folding beds, see fig. Right, not spoiling interior in the raised form. However, due to large loads on the mechanism, this design is not for the self-delicate. Even from a variety of furniture firms, decent soaring beds are able to make units.

About soaring bedside tables

By the way, it will also be mentioned about one of the lyrics of the sleeping fashion - soaring bedside tables, see fig. But only as a fashion: fragile, cleaning does not make it easier for the manufacturers there, but only collect trash for themselves.

Finally

Bed is a vivid example of dialectics in the technique. The simplest thing seems to be a lot of nuances and tricks in themselves. And knowing them and understood the essence of things, you can easily bring to complete perfection. Therefore, the manufacture of bed is the best start for an amateur furniture.

Video: Alternative manual for the manufacture of a homemade bed

• Homemade Countertop: Making Maker, Tiles and Stone

Almost a third part of life, the average person spends in a dream, and from a full rest at this time depends on the activity in the wakeful state, and therefore the success in affairs and personal life. The quality of the night rest largely depends on the comfort of the position of the body during sleep, which is supposed to provide a comfortable bed.

Nowadays, in an assortment of furniture stores, you can choose almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary furniture subject, but for various reasons it is not always possible to purchase the model with all the parameters. Therefore, it is often the question of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and save at the same time a decent amount.

Variety of models beds

Before choosing a model of a bed for manufacture, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, the furniture designers and designers have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.

The main complexity of the independent manufacturer mainly lies in the preparation and processing of design details, as for these operations it is often necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, to decide on the creation of this object of the furniture, it is primarily to consider some models of various levels of complexity made from different materials.

Bed with drawers

Bed equipped with drawers can be single, one-time or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there are usually a large number of toys and objects for various educational activities. This design is convenient because it is possible, without clutching the room with unnecessary furniture, create a place to store various things. Moreover, putting forward such boxes, you can immediately see all the contents, and not to delve into the debris of a massive deep cabinet, where sometimes it is difficult to find the right thing.

Bed with drawers - a great solution for the children's room

By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated by the usual, where free space is left under the sleeping place. The main thing is to draw up quality drawings, put the right size in them, well process all the details intended for the assembly, gently collect them and find the convenient accessories. In this case, the retractable elements should have an easy move, freely extend and move, and for this you can pick up special side guides of the mechanisms or fix small wheels at the bottom of the box.

Suspended bed

This original option of the bed is not so complicated in the manufacture, as it may seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be respected to the effective functioning of this design is the sufficiency of the free space, as the bed is calculated for swaying in a certain amplitude range.

The sleeping place itself consists of a frame - frame and lamellae, but it is necessary to take into account that all parts should be made of high-quality material and securely fastened with each other. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high load on the supports. This quality should also have a mattress that sometimes has an overly high unnecessary weight.

Metal bed

The bed made of metal corner, rods, stripes and reinforcements is available for execution only by the experienced welder, but this option will last for a long time without repair, and will not disturb the creak. A particularly well metal bed is suitable for a certain style of an interior, such as retro, ampir, and even modern.

Such a "artwork" is available only to the experienced master.

Stable and heavy in weight design nevertheless looks easy, almost weightless, so perfectly fit into any atmosphere and will become an element adorning it. Metal many cause negative associations due to rust, which can leave ugly spots on the mattress and bedding. It should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technologies, lacquer and paints are developed, which will protect not only bed accessories from rusty spots, but also the metal itself from the occurrence of this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not be fed, as the frame has sufficient rigidity and thoroughness.

Bed-cabinet transformer

The bed turning into the closet is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this option, the sleeping place should be easily removed and mimic a cabinet or an end.

May be different in size, mimic a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow drawer with a tabletop from above. The last option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, backup bedroom - in case of arrival of guests. In addition, this design is sometimes installed in the loggia or on a warmed balcony, because in the summer it is so nice to relax in the fresh air.

Bed-Tumba - Always Ready Reserve Sleeping Place

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of a similar model is to choose the desired lifting mechanism, and, of course, to process all the details of the design, so that it is easy to install and retractable, without distortion and jamming.

Bed-podium

Another bed option that will help save place in the conditions of small areas of modern apartments - this is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the sleeping place does not take a single centimeter in the room, as the bed is removed during the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a useful area, for example, equipping it under the workplace.

A similar model is also not so difficult, but for the bed and the podium will need a lot of high-quality materials, and the work itself will take quite a lot of time. However, the result will exceed all the expectations, since the output will be not only a comfortable sleeping place, but also the original interior design.

In addition to these beds, from popular, frequently selectable models can be called such as design with a lifting mechanism, orthopedic frame, bunk, with a frame of wooden lamellas, a bed-sofa and others. Some of them will be discussed further in more detail, with the application of illustrated instructions for their manufacture.

Find out by studying two available options, in the special article of our portal.

We make a bed do it yourself

Double wooden bed

Wooden double bed "classic" type

This ordinary bed of standard sizes is made of natural wood, which can be processed independently, to buy on the finished form or to give it to the joinery workshop to accurate saws and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, the following materials will be required:

• Pine timber for the box and leg with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, a length of 2200 mm - 15 pieces.
• Pine Stringing Board in 2000 mm long, 100 mm width, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
• Clay joiner or PVA for furniture.
• Self-tapping screws by 65 and 40 mm.
• Metal corners with a width of a shelf of 50 mm.

The manufactured frame is designed for a mattress of 2000 × 1600 mm in size, so the internal space must have dimensions of 2100 × 1700 mm, and when measuring at the outer edge - 2200 × 1800 mm.

Works are carried out in such a sequence:

Illustration
	Since the box for a frame of bed must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a width of the walls of 50 mm, the bar must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.) To do this, they are labeled with carpentry glue, bars are superimposed on each other, compress in clamps and left until complete drying.
	Next, the resulting glued billets need to be adjusted in size. So, for the assembly of the box, two side panels (kings) with a length of 2200 mm will be required, one 2100 mm - for the average longitudinal jumper, and two end tsards with a length of 1610 mm.
	In order for the corners to be a reliable lock connection, at the edges of the side, on the upper and lower bar, the blanks is measured by 50 mm - these fragments must be absorbed carefully and remove without affecting the middle bar of the panel. On the workpieces for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar, and then it is neatly removed. Then, the speakers of the middle parts of the side of the sides are labeled with glue and are installed in the resulting gap between the two bruises of the end panels of the box. After that, they must be squeezed in clamps and leave until complete drying.
	You can enroll differently by applying a bars dressing connection. In this case, the bars glue into the box already in the cropped form. For this, the first row of timber is laid on the smooth floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its side sides should be 2100 mm, end - 1500 mm. The end parts of the side panels of the side panels are labeled with glue, and brings of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed by self-draws. The corners of the rectangle are exhibited with the help of a construction kit, and is checked by measuring diagonals - they must have the same length. Next, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, it is the length of the side bars, it is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are missing with glue, and it is stacked between two side brings, and then fixed. Then, the average row, except for gluing fixes to the bottom with the help of self-tales. In the last, top row, the timber has the same dimensions and is stacked in the same way as the first lowest row. The bar is glued, fastened by the "Podtay" self-taverns and leaves to dry. This method of assembly is more complicated, since in the absence of the master of the appropriate experience, the corners can go in advance.
	The next step is fixed by the middle element of the design - the jumper glued from two brucks in length in 2000 mm. Before fixing the jumper, the bed box turns over, the marking of the end sides is carried out from the inside, in order to accurately find them the middle. Jumper from below must match the box level. Then, on the bottom row of the bar of the box, in the designated places, the resistant bars are screwed with a length of 150 mm. They will serve as a support for the central longitudinal partition. For docking with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower brusade of the jumper. The mount is made on glue and screws. As a support, a metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm can also be used - the corresponding holes for fastening to the walls of the box are drilled in it and the crossbar. The finished jumper will be the extra base for the boards, the bed box on top.
	The model in question has 4 legs in the corners - they are also comfortable to immediately fasten with self-draws or bolts now while the bed box is in an inverted state. The legs will serve the segments of the same bar of 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the design first with glue, and then with self-draws or through bolts, and additionally it is recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be selected arbitrarily, but usually it is from 200 to 300 mm. The legs are shorter, the more stable there will be a bed, but on the other hand, a small height complicates harvesting.
	In addition, the center does not allow, an additional one or two backups of the same height must be consolidated to the middle jumper - then the design will have a higher rigidity and reliability. The middle legs supports can be fixed in different ways. An option is presented in this illustration when the legs are fixed with bolts from two sides of the jumper.
	After drying the glue in the nodes of the connection of the supports, the box of the bed is reversed again into normal position and is already installed on mounted "regular" legs.
	Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are placed on which the timber or the board of about 30 ÷ 40 mm width, 25 ÷ 30 mm thick, will be attached. It will be a support for the subsequent mounting of overlapping boards. Supported shelves must be placed so that they stood on one level with a central jumper. Usually focus on the line of the string of the top bar of the side of the box - if everything was carried out correctly, then the overall level will be provided.
	The next step on top of the prepared support shelves stacked boards. They should not be resting in the sides of the box, otherwise there may be unpleasant symptoms during the beds. Therefore, the clearance of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side should be held between the walls and boards.
	The flooring is not at all necessary to do solid - the boards are declined at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other.
	Boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the support regiments, and in the center - to the longitudinal jumper. At each point of attachment, two 40 mm long samples are screwed. To avoid the appearance of cracks at the edges of the boards or on the shelves, which they restrain, it is recommended to pre-drill holes under the screw of the small diameter drill - 3 mm.
	After completing the installation of boards, you need to conduct a revision of all surfaces of the design. If necessary, the speakers of glue, large burgers, etc. are removed.
	Go to the finishing processing of the collected bed. First you need to bring all the surfaces to the perfectly smooth condition. For such a processing of wood, it is better, of course, to use a grinding machine of a ribbon, eccentric or vibration type, to which sandpaper paper with the desired graininess is sequentially installed, starting from 80-100, and ending 280-400.
	In the absence of a special tool, you can use the electric drill by installing the pump for grinding on it. If wood processing was produced using power tools, then after them you need to carefully inspect the product, since it is possible that in some places it is necessary to finish work manually. After the completion of grinding works, the finished bed needs to be well cleaned from dust and small sawdust, that is, to prepare for the coating.
	If the product is immediately covered with varnish, the details must first be treated with the primer. If the wood will be dumped by a verse, then it is used to use it. The coating process is performed using a brush or sprayer.
	Further, if it is planned to emphasize the factory drawing of the wood, then after drying the veil on the surface once again passed by sandpaper.
	The coating is preferably carried out not only from the outside of the bed, but also with a rear, inconspicable eye. The fact is that the veil to a certain extent is an antiseptic and is able to protect the wood from the "traditional" pests - microflora or insects.
	The next step is to cover the product with varnish. To do this, it is best to use water-based formulations, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a poisonous smell, eco-friendly dry enough, and after drying, they give a pleasant matte shine. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply a few thin layers of varnish. Moreover, the subsequent layers are applied only after complete grazing of the previous one.
	In the finished form, the bed finished and varnish the bed should look about in this way.
	In the breaks between bed coatings, while the next layers will be sinking, you can make a full or improvised back. In this case, the backrest panel is made of boards, and is mounted as a decorative lattice. For it, three boards width in 100 ÷ 120 mm, a length of 1600 mm, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces height in 400 ÷ 460 mm are required. The grille is also processed by sandpaper and covered in the same composition as the bed itself.
	In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is stacked by the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for operation.

Double bed with an installed lifting mechanism

Another variant of the double bed is a model made using a chipboard. In this design, in contrast to the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. A plus of this bed can also be called the opportunity to use the closed space under the sleeping place, since the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily lift the wooden frame, without removing the mattress.

The disadvantages of such a model include its massiveness that does not make it possible to install it in a small room. In addition, the chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, as it is made using binders that can often be separated into the environment toxic evaporation, which is not very unpleasant for humans.

It is necessary to take into account that choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for efficient air ventilation in which it will be. And for the manufacture of bed details, the chipboard panels with formaldehyde emission class should be purchased.

So, to make a bed with a standard mattress size of 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• List chipboard 16 mm thick and 3500 × 1750 mm.
• Two sheets of Fiberboard with a thickness of 5 mm, standard size in 2745 × 1220 mm.
• Brew with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
• The board with a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 mm, a width of 60 mm - 20 m or plywood 10 mm, in size 1525 × 1525 mm.
• Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
• Self-tapping screws, bolts.
• Metal corners.
• Fabric for plating, 1500 mm width, 5000 mm long.
• Singrytegone width of 1600 mm, length 5000 mm.
• Poropolon 2 sheet, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm.
• Brackets for a stapler 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Preparing everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.

BUT. From 16 mm chipboard is manufactured:

- headboard - 1 pcs, measuring 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have straight angles;

- sidebar box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;

- the end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;

- Internal partition - 1 pc., 2010 × 280 mm.

B. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm, fixed in the box:

- longitudinal elements fixed on side panels - 2 pcs., Long in 2010 mm;

- The transverse part, fixed on the end panel - 1 pc., Length 1810 mm.

- 100 mm height racks - 4 pcs.

IN. Details of a bar of 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of lifting frame:

- longitudinal elements of the internal crate - 5 pcs., 2005 mm long;

- Transverse details of the internal crate - 2 pcs., Length in 1805 mm.

G. Boiled or dried out of plywood (10 mm) lamellas size 60 × 15 × 1805 mm - 11 pcs.

D. Conduction of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of DVP 1650 × 2330 mm.

Having made all the elements necessary for assembly design, you can proceed to the trim and assembly of parts.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	If the headboard will have a rounded shape, the template for it is first manufactured on paper, and then transferred to the chipboard and is muffled with an electric jig. It is very important to take into account the fact that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - so the design will be more rigid. Usually at the height of the floor and the walls passes a plinth having a certain width. Therefore, at the top of the center of the head of the headboard, a special support element from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth, is fixed. With it, it will ensure the reference to the wall. You can act differently, deleting the plot of a plinth from the place where the bed will be installed.
	Next, it makes fitting the details of the box and the head of the installation site. Then, the exhibited box panels from DSP are bonded among themselves at the corners using a bar segments or metal corners. The headwall panel is not joined yet, as it first needs to be seeded. On the fixed panels are samples of timber.
	A wide stamped lamellae laid on the chipboard, and place their location.
	The next step is the headboard bed with a foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and brackets. The foam rubber is aligned, and first fixes on the front of the panel.
	Then, its edges are wrapped and shooting with brackets from the back of it.
	From above, the foam rubber is covered with a cloth selected for this. It is recommended to acquire a dense material that can repel dust.
	Work on the trim, starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is neatly stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam on the back of the head of the head.
	Now the covered back can be installed at its permanent place.
	Next, the lifting frame frame is manufactured. Its parts are collected and fixed using metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, ranging from the middle of the structure. The middle bar must rely on the partition from the chipboard, fixed in the bed box. Having gathered the carcass, he temporarily assign to the side.
	Next, from the inside, and the walls of the box are scented outside. They first also with a stapler fastened with a sintepon, and then the same fabric as the headboard was previously shed.
	The next step is marked and fixed on the frame elements of the lifting mechanism.
	Further? A fitting frame is performed on the box and the place of installation of a bar on the side panels of the box is marked, to which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed.
	Then, the fixation of the bar is made, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the design is performed. The bar is fixed on the chipboard using a 50 mm self-tapping screws. Their caps need to be dried into wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
	After that, on the frame, across the bars, with the help of screws, lamellas are fixed.
	In the folded state, the lifting mechanism looks in this way. It is located in the resulting niche between the two bars.
	On the presented illustration, you can consider a semicircular neckline made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free raising of the frame lattice.
	Next, the design must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work.
	The next step is prepared by the Fiberboard sheets, which will be covered by the bottom part of the bed of the bed. This will create a full-fledged tube suitable for storing various things.
	The lifting can be carried out using the bracket or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide hats.
	After mounting the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place.
	On this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks attached to the side domestic bar. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side bar, but also in the corners of the box. They are mounted at one height, and are necessary for the fierce support for the mobile frame when it is in the folded state.
	For the convenience of raising the frame, along with the mattress laid on it, stitched loops or peculous handles are fixed in its front. They are screwed with two or four self-taverns with wide hats to the end bruus frame.
	The bed with the mattress in the open state looks in this way.

Single bed

This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or adolescent, as it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any object of furniture installed in the bedroom or children's room, for this product you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material.

single bed

Dimensions in these drawings are indicated in inches, 1 inch \u003d 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented dimensions into familiar to domestic masters.

This table features the process of manufacturing this simple bed model:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts will be required, which are listed in accordance with the scheme shown in the illustration: - A - legs. For the manufacture of these parts it will take a timing segment 2 × 2 "(50.8 × 50.8 mm). The height of the bar for the headboard - 33½ "(851 mm) - 2 pcs., For squinting-17¼" (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B - the back and front walls of the bed box, as well as the wall located in the package, is made from the board with a cross section 1 × 9¼ "(24.5 × 245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½" (1918 mm) - 2 pcs, Flying - 39 "(991 mm) -1 pcs. - C - longitudinal beams for the flooring, made from a cross section of 2 × 1 "(50.8 × 25.4 mm) 75¾" (1910 mm) - 2 pcs.; - D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 "(25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39" (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E - Lower part of the head of 1 × 6 "(25.4 × 152 mm) - 1 pc. and the upper part of the cross section 1 × 9¼ "(25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., Length of both parts - 39" (990.6 mm). In the future, a figure back will be cut out of the board prepared for the upper element.
	The first step is made of design details and are collected in separate sections, from which the bed will be mounted. The most complex part of the detail is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curvilinear form, but must have a perfectly treated upper and lower edge. The specified dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an improvised circulation, the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make the so-called pattern (molding) on \u200b\u200bpaper, and then transfer the shape to the board. Then, it is cut with an electric jigsaw, processing edges with a mill and grinding with a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to the perfectly smooth state, as they will not cover with a cloth or other material. In addition to this part, the bottom panel is muted for the head of. It is much simpler to figure it out with it, since the most difficult task will be smoothly sprinkled, and then they are well handled.
	Then, from a bar with a cross section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm, legs 851 mm high are cut. They also need to handle and clean it well. After that, on the sides of the bars that will be turned inside, markup is made to connect them with crossbars.
	So that the headboard assembly was neat and had durable compounds, you can act on the scheme represented. To do this, 2 ÷ 3 holes for each of the elements are drilled in bars and end sides of the boards. Further, 80 mm long and diameter of 8 mm are prepared. Then the wrenches and joined end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Further, the ducts are neatly driven through the bar into the transverse parts of the head of the head of the head of the head. If the process is carried out in this way, the places of compounds from the outer side of the legs are closed with a wooden rail, which is fixed on glue, and for the period of its drying, the leg is compressed in clamps.
	Upon the condition of gluing closing decorative rails, landing grooves are left from the outside of the legs for the side panels of the bed (CARG). In this case, they are fixed on the side of the legs, which is the most durable compound. If it is not planned to be installed on the leg with additional, covering the lining dump connections, then the holes in the bars are drilled non-cross, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm. Then, as well as with the help of glue and the wrenches, the head of the headboard is connected. This method of assembly is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a neat approach and accurate work - quite performed.
	Next, the legs and the panel are made for footing. The height of the bar must be 438 mm for them, and the size of the panel 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm in length. The connection of the details of the style is carried out in the same way as in the head of the head of the selection, that is, with the help of the wrens and glue.
	The next step is connected by the side panels (tsargi) with sections of the head of the head and squinting. They can be consolidated in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They screw themselves to the kings and legs.
	In addition to metal corners, there are special details for connecting these parts, called bed tie or hooks. With their help, the side panels are hung on the stands of the head of the head and squinting. If hooks are used to connect, the design will be folded.
	The next step towards the kings you need to fix the support shelves or elements made from a bar or docks. They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall.
	The glue is applied to the bar, then the item is aligned on the king and presses it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the details are screwed by self-drawing.
	The next step on the bars attached to the tsargi are laid out and prepared boards are aligned.
	When fixing boards-lamellaes on the bars, the entire design acquires the necessary rigidity. Each of the boards is screwed in two self-draws on both sides. Holes for the self-samples are scheduled to drill (3 mm).

The above bed variants can be considered the most accessible to independent manufacture. In order for the work to be productive, it is necessary to prepare well for it, equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. By completing these conditions and producing all technological operations neatly and not in a hurry, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture, which will serve for many years.

Video: Master Class of Bed Manufacturing do it yourself