The most economical repair of the toilet (cheap, quickly and beautiful). Repair of the toilet: Features and ideas of registration where to start repairing the toilet room

Toilet repair does not apply to the number of particularly complex works - a combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for residential premises. It is only necessary to remember that the toilet is an exceptionally functional room, and everything in it must be subordinate to a certain purpose: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of excretory organs.

From here it does not not follow that it will be about things uncomfortable. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive repair of the toilet, turning it into the room cozy, comfortable and pacifying. Another Galen with Avichennaya wrote that for the sake of health and longevity to send natural needs in the good location of the Spirit and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Stages of repair

Step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

select type, location and method of installing toilet bowl;
design development;
selection and purchase of materials;
stripping floor, walls, ceiling;
laying Communications;
floor repair;
sanitary cabinet device;
repair of walls and ceiling;
floor finish;
installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
wall decoration, Sanshkaf, ceiling;
replacing the door.

Repair not providing for the replacement of plumbing and complex construction work (cosmetic) is much simpler and will be described in a separate section. And now consider the stages how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For the sake of him, actually a toilet and created. When choosing this device, you should first consider: and not to put a suspension toilet?

Built-in wall mixer, dilated washbasin and soul scatter not more than tribute fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, are very and very important: the slightest malfunction is equivalent to the breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of instruments with a smaller way of their reliability. In some countries, building regulations are already directly prohibited.

But the toilet is quite another matter. The floor around his pedestal, and especially the extraction under the discharge to remove it difficult, and if you take a smear there and give it to the analysis in the SES ... the nervous is asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the suspension toilet - smooth, convenient for cleaning the floor. The niche in the wall for him in the type of our house will not make - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet bracket for the suspension and the flushing tank are very simply covered with a plumbing locker, which does not allow to accumulate in shorts of pollution. And the repair of a small toilet in this case simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be told in its place.

Design

Requirements for the design of the toilet based on the needs of physiology are substantiated by a huge mass of the material, from the works of studying the core of the primitive people of archaeologists to the newest studies in the field of molecular biology. At the heart of a simple fact: Biological evolution comes with a turtle pace relatively with the development of civilization and physiologically, we are the same as our distant rapids in the skins and with a drowned Dube in the hands of the hooks.

Without going into details, not essential for not those who are inclined to readers, but require a lot of space to describe, we present the result:

Small details, especially the motley, unacceptable: they create a subconscious sensation of anxiety, knocking the intestinal work.
You should also avoid bright, rich and screaming tones in the color scheme; Pastel tones are preferred.
The total tone should "cool down" from the bottom up, losing at the same time a juiciency.
One-piece vertical planes that create an impression of open space are also undesirable.
The walls should be divided by vertical into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or the chin of Sidelts and above - to the ceiling.
Dense plane hanging over their heads are also poorly affected by physiology.

Note: pastel colors are good and the fact that the inevitable in the toilet change the color of the color (see below) they do not like it.

Based on this, the physiologically acquitted toilet blooming looks like this:

The floor is dark enough, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
Walls at a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30cm) - unsaturated red-brown with speckle or very light gray, too, with krapines.
Walls above and to ceiling - beige, mustard, cream, etc. You can with flat relief or faded blurry pattern.
Ceiling - pale blue, pale cream or pearly gray.

Materials

When choosing a toilet repair materials, you need to consider the following:

A lot on the floor in the toilet is shed in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in insignificant quantities is saturated with bav (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
In the air in the toilet evaporates compared to the bathroom, but most of the evaporations are chemically active, strongly and unpleasant smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Similar circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

From any tree and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be refused - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from the child-uninsulated or firmly popling guest are immediately absorbed, well only at first glance. In fact, a pleasant to the touch and the pleasing eye teak, the tees or cork gender will quickly become a paradise for microbes. They do not splash on the ceiling, but evaporation rise primarily to it.
Also undesirable tile based on conventional silicates (not white with offline). Chemically, she is neutral, but a lot of micropores in it, and the smells she absorbs and keeps in itself well. We'll have to use a deodorant more often, and it costs money, and is not a natural component of the air.
PVC needed to be treated carefully, due to the filler. It can also absorb the volatile connections. You should buy or certified, or from a proven manufacturer.
The usual screed for the floor is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture-absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom it is more than good, but in the toilet on the floor it is not water with a small admixture of a fragrant shampoo.
Armstrong suspended ceiling is excluded: it is highly true and also produced from chemically unstable organic waste paper production.
Any paper wallpaper, who, no matter how modifying them - for the same reason.
Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from insignificant miasms very soon yellow, gray and acquire a completely vile view.
Foam ceiling panels for the same reason.

Recommend to repair toilet, you can the following:

For facing - porcelain stoneware. Tight, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly expensive than a tile. And the percentage of production marriage is much lower than in an inexpensive tile, so in general it comes out cheaper.
The tile is a faience or another on the basis of kaolin (white with inside and with a brilliant fine-grained break).
Paints - on mineral pigment and marble flour filler (microcalcitis). Somewhat worse with a filler from Dolomite flour, but with a skillful painting for 7-10 years, they also have enough.
Washing wallpapers are their polypropylene, polyester or polynescene.
Plasterboard - only moisture-resistant, green.
Profiles for drywall - galvanized or aluminum.
Plaster - any, but with a mandatory impregnation with the help of a roller after frozen the primer in a concrete of deep penetration.
Waterproofing - Aquaizol or Polyester.
Floor screed is basic and liquid polymer finish.

Note: the bulk floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement of anywhere in them is not a suitable cement-sand tie. They are not suiced, but the toilet and consumption is small. If you take into account the intake, selected sand, reinforcement, lighthouses, a tool for a concrete screed, but on a small area, the blur floor is even cheaper.

Channel Replacement

Substitution of sewage in the apartment - the work is complex and. Here, only a little further: in front of the cross in the removal of the bathroom and the kitchen, it is desirable to insert a tee with a 32 mm nozzle. When repairing a small toilet in the panel house it is very useful, see section on a washbasin device in the toilet of Khrushchev.

Stripping premises

Stripping toilet before repair is easier than the bathroom, but there are its own features here:

Before with the floor, inspect carefully fastening the toilet (it is assumed that the entire plumbing is removed immediately). The complexity of work on the floor and costs for them depends on their state, see the floor repair section.
And the floor, and the walls do not need to dock up to bare laying, plates or overlap: the bulk of plaster and screed in the toilets, as a rule, do not even be spoiled in raw block shutters.
You can knock down the tile, not taking off the floor to a smooth surface: with a bulk screed, small irregularities are insignificant.
Paint and upper layer of plaster from the ceiling and walls of dust, but easy to consider a drill to a round metal brush. With some skill, then you can immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpapers.
The skill of stripping brushes is produced pretty quickly, so it is better to start the sweeping from the surfaces covered in the future Santechshkaf: there are flaws back forever.
Upon completion of stripping, the walls and the ceiling need to be allowed and roller to treat primer deep penetration in concrete. While you will mess around with the floor, the walls and the ceiling will be fully prepared for painting, sticking and facing.

Laying Communications

If there is no repair to the toilet in Khrushchev, there is no relative to the hydraulics and selection of selection: there are where there were. Miniber (about which is a question in front) special hassle does not require.

In the case where the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows you to establish additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes will have to be hidden into the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole look. Stacking technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid soldering propylene on whole-polar fittings in the strokes. At the end of the installation, the shifts are fought. There are two features like Americans say good and bad:

Stacking the shoes in the walls are not worth: perfectly swipe tiles.
Stubbing the pipes into the floor or let them be bug in the corners, covering the slopes, it is impossible: the first will create the accumulation of miasms, and the second, in addition, it will rush into the eyes and significantly reduce the floor area, which is not so excessive. So the perforator with the bolt on concrete will have to work to fame.

If the "replacement" is meant how to remove, paint and put it, then remember: it is necessary to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without drills. Paint is the same as others for the toilet. Belil, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not fear, it is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The last from the traces of ammonia in the air in 3-4 years yellow; Titanium almost eternal.

Redecorating

Cosmetic repair of the toilet suggests that the case is limited to decoration and painting, and all Santechpribers remain on the ground. The wall decoration and the ceiling in this case are not different from the already described, and the floor is easier:

Remove the plinth.
The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the crossed, if it is semi-powered into the floor, sealing silicone.
Option 1: On the floor right on the same tile, we pour the liquid polymer bulk floor with a layer of 10-15 mm. Calculation of volume - on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Option 2: Stelim Marmoleum, removing the toilet bowl. Cheaper, and you can replace the rusted fasteners. With good mounts on a sheet of marmoleum in places under the bolts, we make cruciform cuts (it does not need to be measured with jewelry accuracy), and after flooring the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
I put the plinth - ready.

Toilet before and after cosmetic repair without replacing communications

Toilet with a wicker in Khrushchev

Look again to draw with Santechshkaf. Yes, there is a small wicker, and you can immediately wash your hands right there. But where to take it? In railway cars and then there are more ... Make yourself:

Spill - ready, goose, with perhaps less removal.
Sink - plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow donkey and bent down the upper edge. The choice is rich, prices inexpensive.
Water supply - metal-plastic tubes-Henks, as in the sink in the kitchen from the tees on the pipes.
Tires - corrugations 32 mm in a tee on a tap from the bath with a kitchen (which is for what it needs!).
Siphon - due to the bend of corrugation.

Alternative - miniature sink. But it will have to search.

And how is the sink from the bowl? First, in the center of the Donets of the bowl drills 4 holes of 4 mm, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; It will be a grid. Then cut out from plywood 12-18 mm round bug: the outer diameter - the diameter of the bowl of the bowl without taking into account the borals; Inner - 35 mm. There are soils in plow emulsion. Then we glue the bureau with aquarium silicone glue to the bowl of the bowl and in the same silicone insert the corrugations in it.

Now it remains to cut in the Sanshkaf shelf with a circular stone drill (the cabinet is already lined with tiles) holes under a bowl with a diameter over the top diameter of the bowl; Then it will fall on the shelf with a bent edge, and under the scold. The main thing is not to guess with marking: the water should pour a little away from the very center of the sink bowls, so as not to splash on the grid.

And finally, fix the mini-sink silicone, now you can already be cheaper construction. We bring the corrugation into the sewage pipe, we seal the same silicone. In the closet, we put the fastening nut on Henk, we take out, we attach the spout to the fittings, we insert it into place, fasten the nut - the mini-school man is ready.

Note: do not glue the bureau with a construction silicone or superclaim (cyanoacrylative glue). The first is not durable enough, and the junction on the second in six months is collapsed.

Outcome

DIY repair of the toilet can perform the middle level of the home master. In addition to essential saving money, it will give the experience with which you can be taken for.

Now I want to save everything, including repairs.

And if, entering your own toilet, you finally understand that it requires at least cosmetic repair, it is not necessary to hire builders.

You can get together with the forces and make repair toilet do it yourself. And if you do not imagine where to start, the most correct option will be visited by relatives, close friends and neighbors to fold for themselves the picture, how your new toilet should be. At the same time, pay more attention to technologieswhich were used during repairs.

Now in the building materials market exists lots ofvarious primers and lubricants that improve. Therefore, you can easily choose the material suitable for you.

If there are slots and dents in the walls, they must be predetermined cement solution. After its complete drying, the walls and the ceiling must be thoroughly projected.

Installation of pipes

Of course, you can replace the whole riser, but it is better to call specialistand agree with the neighbors.

If the replacement of the riser is not included in your plans, you can stay on the segment of the pipeline passing through your apartment.

However, if you are not sure about your abilities, it is better to leave the pipe replacement for later. It should also be borne in mind that they can hidein a special decorative box or locker.

Paul alignment

FirstlyThey are cheaper. BUT secondly, have excellent sound insulation, durability, and they are very easy to mount.

Initially, you need to decide how much you buy.

Depending on the perimeter of the toilet and the presence of shelves and boxes, calculated square. m. panels occupied. You also need to purchase plinths and metal profiles to which the facing panels will be attached. It is advisable not to buy very thin plastic because it is less durable. Prefer materials with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

So, initially need to make up framefrom metal siding with mandatory use of a plumb. At the same time, the profiles are desirable to fasten to the ceiling so that it does not rush over time.

Then start collectdirectly plastic panels, sage them on a dowel. It is necessary to do it very carefully, because plastic, even despite its thickness is quite fragile.

After the end of the joints of the corners is desirable obtainsilicon glue, so that moisture does not get there. The plinths, located on top, can also be glued with silicone, the bottom is screwed up with dowels.

It looks great, it is convenient for him and just to care.

Repair toilet Oboyami

it the most budget from existing options. For repair you need certainly washablewallpaper of good quality based polypropylene or polyester.

Walls should be good preparedThey should not have paint residues or plaster, because your new wallpaper can simply fly from them.

The surfaces are processed by waterproofing and primer in order to avoid the appearance of fungus and the best surface hitch. Also when using primer, you will save a little on the glue.

Wallpapers are glued using plunderand thorough strokes of the seams. Plus such repairs is his budgetand simplicitywallpaper sticking. However, such a toilet will not be very practical, and in a few years you will again have to take for construction tools.

Thus, it is not so difficult and expensive. You can always choose building materials for your wallet and preferences. What is just not to save, it is plumbingand tile. And in general, a bit of the power of will, smelting and desires, and in a couple of days you will brag that we have mastered the new profession of the builder.

Step-by-step bathroom repair and toilet.

Start repairs in the apartment, according to most of the finishers, should certainly be with a bathroom. I will explain why: this is the dirtiest and dusty of the repair, requiring not only the dismantling of the old tile, plumbing, doors, and sometimes completely the walls of the bathroom.

Clean the old

So, the first thing we do - it takes old plumbing: bath, sink, toilet ... Kortch everything worth it, weighs, lies.

Next stage: cut with the help of a grinder all old pipes to the crane located on the riser.

With the help of the perforator, knock on the old tile.

It is important if the plaster under the tile is moving away from the wall, rebellious ... it is also necessary to repeal it.

We dismantle the old door with the box.

Change risers. Now we draw your attention to the water supply and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and need to be changed. After repair it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in sanitary work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified masters, but the inner wiring of the water supply can be made himself.

Checking hood. Go to the hood. If we do not want in the bathroom it is stuffy, you need to check the work of the hood. To do this, bring the burning candle to the exhaust and on the tongue of the flame assesses its work: the better the exhaust is working, the more intense the flame is sued into the chimney pipe. In the event of not correct work of the drawing - we either clean it, or install the fan in it.

Preparing walls and gender

Ground wall. At the next stage, I propose to get carefully: take a broom and reciprocate all the garbage and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust falls out, we take the primer of deep penetration and the smear of the wall.

Install lighthouses. After complete drying of the primer, we set lighthouses for further stucco bathrooms. Lighthouses need to be installed strictly in terms of the level, observing the wall plane and withsting 90 degrees angles.

Plastelling the wall. Lighthouses installed? Getting Stucco. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, drill and nozzle mixer for a drill. The bathrooms are placed, as a rule, dry plaster mixtures, the blessing of the lack of flaws in them. I usually use the "Rotband" stucco. We take a bucket of liters by 12 and we prepare in it a solution as written in the instructions. With the spatula, we throw the solution between the beacons of one wall of centimeters by 50 from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it to the beacons and stretch up - it turns out a smooth surface. Excess the rules are removed. And so on all the walls - from the floor to the ceiling. There were no big holes not trouble - aligned with a spatula. If everything is smoothly and beautiful means you coped with the task.

Align the floors. The next stage is the floors. Less them with the help of "bulk floors." We divorce the mixture as stated in the instructions, you can even be a little bit of juvenile, and we melt all over the floor with a needle roller. After drying the walls and floors, just in case, check in terms of the level, do not eliminate.

We make a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? as? And at what height? There will be a bath, sink, mirror, washing machine (if it), towel dryer, toilet, block closing risers. To do this, we take a roulette and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call this - the plan of the bathroom. So that the plan is accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bath is tied to the size (I mean that you have a bath no half of the football field, but for example 1m.70cm. On 1m.50cm.), The bath must be purchased as long as possible. And if you have size 1m.68cm. - You need to buy a bath on 1m.70cm. Then 2 cm. Pretty. It seemed to deal with this.

Video - Turnkey Bath Repair

We do (sketch) detailed markup of water supply and sewage. If everything is purchased, then continue. We collect a bath in a free space. We put it on the legs and align in terms of the level. As a rule, most baths have a leg height adjustable - adjust the height of themselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We carry the sizes on the wall in the bathroom. All that is done with the sink and washing machine. Next What we do is placing on the walls as we will go water and sewage. The mixer for the bathroom is usually installed in the center by 10 cm. Above the baths are also necessary to draw on the walls. The distance between the pipes coming to the bathroom mixer should be 15cm. Plumbing for the sink is placed on the basis of the design features of the bedside table, and the length of flexible mixer hoses. Under the washing machine, only one pipe is placed - cold. Sewer pipes sketch at an angle to the side of the riser (so that it is plums). If you can do not be a big bias under the bath and sink, then the output must be 50cm under the washing machine. from gender.

We do (sketch) detailed wiring markup. Next What we do is determined with the electrical wiring. How many rosettes we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use the electric shaver - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror - you will need to withdraw the wire under it (decide on which height). There will be a fan - we take it under it.

Making Shrobov. When we completely decided and sketched, we take the perforator and the stroke on the outlined. Next, we are removed and the primer of the shoes.

Mount the water supply and sewer. In the next step, we mount the plumbing (comb) and sewer. Do not forget, also, install water meters and filters. Since the water supply can be removed into the walls - use better pipes from polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

Mount the towel drying. In the next step, we invite the masters or install the heated towel rail. Pipes are also mounted in the wall.

Mount Kro.. So we had no closed risers, and we fix it. We collect a box of metal profile and sewing it drywall. Plasterboard should be necessarily moisture resistant - it is green. Also do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed to have access to cranes and meter. Then, at the angle of our box, we set the perforated corner and plastering the entire box.

Ground walls and gender. As a result, that we see - completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look in detail for the presence of irregularities. If such are available - correct with a spatula and sandpaper.

Lay out the floor. Now lay the floor with a cafeter. It will take us - drill, mixer, bucket, a conventional spatula, a toothed spatula, professional tiles, crosses (1.5-2mm.).

Put the tile so that all the cropped edges are under the bathroom and sink. So in plain sight we will only have a whole tile. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.

Lay out 1 series of wall tiles under floor bath. Then it will be necessary to pave 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use a small tile, then there will be enough centimeters 30 from the floor.

Pull the tile under the bathroom (wall, floor).

Install the bath. It's time for the bathroom. We enter the bath, set strictly in terms of the level and in length and width. We cut the bath.

Put the wall tile. Lay out the wall tile. We start directly from the bath, from the very prominent angle, and drive in a circle. From the side of the baths you need to resort the rails so that the entire tile is in terms of level. Finish the top, remove the rails and report the bottom. Let the tile dry and take the cross.

Clean the seam.

Slip seams.

Mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: scratching and paint, suspended from plastic panels, stretched. All of them are good in their own way, choose you.

Install the door.It's time to install not getting plumbing - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, screen under the bath.

It remains to hang the mirror, put out sockets and a bath.

This procedure for performing work will not allow you to make the most common mistakes when the quality of work performed is suffering, and sometimes leads to reworking.

Good repair!

Dear members of the forum and not yet defined guests! That made cosmetic repairs of the bathroom and the toilet and especially for you fell all the process. I will be glad if my modest photo report saves someone from you some time, money or nerves
We are talking about a separate bathroom in a typical trip of the house of the series and (209) a.

With a huge bathroom (150x140) and majestic toilet (110x70)
All this is enclosed in a box of asbetic sheets height 230.
Immediately make a reservation - initially it was decided to make a modest cosmetic repair without transferring the walls and installing the jacuzzi. Just that it was nice to go there, no more.
So, proceed.
Here is what was:

A creepy spectacle, isn't it?
To begin with, knocking up the old tile.

The tile is riveted easily, it was glued for 20 years ago it is unknown to what. But the old glue remains on the wall and it must be removed. Otherwise, the new tile does not put normally. The old glue is removed along with the paint, to which it has been applied using a thermal gun (construction hairdryer) and a spatula.

Deleted easily. But the work is tedious and not interesting. Along the way a tile is knocked down on the floor. In the toilet, I shot it down, because She held it bad there, and in the bathroom she kept firmly, so there I left it as a base for a new tile.
Along the way, replaced the eyeliner to the washbasin.

About adventure, with this related, see section "On errors learn"
Also in the interruptions between cleaning the walls, I change the plums in the bathroom

It is naturally no longer unscrewed, so it remains only to cut.

That's what your inside the pipes are actually going on
It is not to break through anything, so put the removable plastic pipes of 50 mm, which can always be removed and cleaned. What I did.
To be continued...
We continue to repair.
Drain-overflow was bought as:

The cast iron tube in the toilet was also not removed, so it was broken with a hammer (a few neighbors hanged himself)
And the flexible corrugation is inserted through the rubber gasket.

This in the future helped the toilet could be moving there and here when laying tiles on the walls. Otherwise it would be uncomfortable.
Since it is impossible for a long time without a toilet bowl, immediately put the tile on the floor and put a new toilet (with a guarantee of the Neponnyukoknobol, without screwing it until the floor.

Then removed old doors with the box. And here it stalled.
The boxes for them were previously made specifically for this configuration of the bathroom, and to insert new doors to be pretty perplexed with new jambs. The fact is that insert a standard box in such an opening with thin walls, and so that the size under the door canvas is fully problematic. Open:
I had to turn the jambs with an additional bar (in the photo - white)

Then he joked the doors, cut the handles and locks and glued the platbands outside.

Before this, there was an electrician between the doors, replacing the wires for copper and cut the place under the mortise switch.
To be continued...
I removed the flexible wiring in the riser and put filters for a split. Pipe pressed the bars.

Metalplastic decided not to put. Many of the way to start it over the wall, and live in this apartment (I hope) has not been left for a long time.
Now the heated towel rail.
The wife wanted instead of a curved pipe ladder with a shelf. No sooner said than done. The eyeliner there, naturally, is completely different. To begin with, he called the Jansk Plumbing, which blocked the water, told the jumper, cut the old heated towel rail and put the taps. (For all-about everything - 5 tyr.)

The pipe hid between the walls, making feeding with a grinder

All, you can put a tile ...
The tile was purchased 10x10 cm, slightly different from each other and with uneven edges. The uneven edges are very helpful to inexperienced tiles (such as me). They forgive small shifts in the masonry - as if so conceived.

After a long study of the market (the main technologist "Knauf" was already ready to give me a chemical formula), glue and primer were chosen "Lugato", these are:
Ideal for applying on a flexible surface (asbetic sheet). True, expensive, infection. By 12 sq.m. walls and 2 sq.m. Floor left exactly 3 bags of 25 kg.
Without plastic cutter - nowhere, I had to buy
But without Bulgarian - too. Cutout cutting outlet for a hair dryer and a light switch above the mirror in the bathroom:
The glue can be applied to the wall, and on the tile, where it is more convenient. You can put on top down - does not slip.
Since the bathroom itself and the sink green, bought a bit of the same tile, but a green shade. Its amount gradually reduced bottom up. Tile in the bathroom on the floor - also greenish.

The mirror bought almost all over the wall - 120x60 and decided to hang it on the tile, but to make flush with tiles. To do this, stuck behind the two-way tape 3m rubber of the desired thickness
Also, the rear surface pasted scotch, so that fragments did not scatulate, if suddenly disassembled. And hung.

Now the ceiling.
Since the ceilings and so low, and the task was put to make a suspended with the built-in light, I screwed up a thickness of only 2 cm, and the holes cut into the lamps right in the asbetic ceiling. There are 20 cm of empty space.

And put the plastic panels, cutting in them the pre-holes under the lamps and fans. Fans are turned on simultaneously with the main lighting. The lamps are energy-saving, that is, they do not bask, which is important for the bathroom.

Then put the seams. Here I came to the rescue my best friend - Wife
Installation of the towel rail:
And shells. The holes under the sink drilled by a special drill:

The mixers bought "Damixa".
Plinth and flags in the bathroom and toilet made from tile

Now you can glue the platbands from the inside:

Well, all sorts of baubles

Well, it came out something like this:
Although, not still completed ..
I want to hide into some plastic box the sewer tube from the bathroom and sink. And still not invented how it is better to make the back wall and the door in the riser.

The toilet is the most important place in the modern house. Due to the presence of sewage and water supply, our dwellings can be called really comfortable, and life is comfortable. But, of course, a modern man seeks not only to comfort, but also to aesthetic. After all, it is much more pleasant to use the beautiful, cozy and practical toilet. Everyone wants to bring order in every room at home, including in the toilet. And this is completely easy to do, especially if we take into account the variety of goods, materials for and toilet, plumbing devices, furniture, etc.

Today, stores are pleased to offer options for any opportunities and wishes. Using modern materials and accessories can be realized in reality almost any creative idea and make a toilet with beautiful, neat, practical and modern.

New fresh ideas, designers never bypass the side of the room are annually appear in the design of bathrooms and toilet every year. Each season, new and new solutions and materials appear for their embodiment. I must say that the repair of the toilet do it yourself - the task is quite sat for each owner. If you have at least a little experience in construction matters and want to transform your bathroom, you can safely begin to implement this task. Correctly chosen materials and design solutions will help you handle all the tasks quickly and without extra costs.

In addition, repair work in the toilet, as in the small place at home, can be prepared by the transformation of other rooms. In our article you will find useful tips, recommendations and descriptions of the processes that will use you when performing repair work in the toilet. We will help you figure out where to start, what materials to use, how to perform certain tasks how to work with plumbing.

First of all, you, of course, should decide what kind of repair is required in the toilet. You may simply want to update the finish, change the tile, etc. or requires a capital replacement of all plumbing, pipes, wiring, etc.? The answer to this question will determine the volume of further work and the procedure for their implementation.

If you decide to repair the toilet, it is necessary thoroughly, then you will have to keep in mind that such a repair, even taking into account the modest size of the room, can do without it. This, of course, concerns the cases when high-quality materials are purchased, expensive durable plumbing, good pipes. You can, of course, to seriously save, refusing, for example, from replacing pipes using a cheap finish, low-grade plumbing. But is it worth such a repair made of bad materials, your efforts and, in general, any investments? After all, high-quality, carefully selected materials, furniture, accessories will ultimately reach their cost repeatedly, as they will serve you for a long time, reliably and smoothly, as well as maintain their original attractive appearance over the years.

Having done once a really good repair in the toilet with a high-quality replacement of all communications, you can forgive for a long time about the problems associated with this room. The cheapest repair will cause constant disorders and disappointments. The poorly laid low-grade tile will begin to fall off, will lose its attractiveness, plumbing will yellow, old pipes will leak. And you will again have to invest in the next repair of the toilet. Of course, each owner chooses on his own, what he needed repairs and how to do it. In any case, a good decision will find the "golden middle" between the economy and the desire for the better, which completely coincides with your tastes and will not be too hard for your wallet. Believe me, a modern assortment of materials, furniture, plumbing for the toilet and the bathroom can satisfy every taste. Therefore, you will definitely find exactly what you need. And we will tell you what options should be considered.

In any construction project, the most important stage is the planning stage. First of all, you must define for yourself what exactly you want to obtain as a result of the repair work. And then understand what exactly needs to be done. Delaying the range of tasks, immediately think about what you need to implement them. You must have the necessary toolkit at hand to eliminate the previous finish and perform a new one to independently replace the pipes and installation of plumbing, etc.

And it is also necessary to treat the acquisition of materials with all seriousness. It is important to choose not only high-quality and optimally suitable for solving the tasks you have, but also buy them in the required quantity. So, enough for work, and there was a certain stock in case of battle or other damage. If you acquire less material than you need, first, come together with the need to throw all things and go to the new batch of material, and secondly, risk, in general, not finding a suitable material, as some materials in different parts have Different shade, slightly differ in the pattern, etc. Such inconsistencies are very noticeable.

Therefore, the calculation of the material is the most important stage of preparation for repair. And also should be familiar with the works that you have to do. Before you start something to do, try to delve into the process, understand its features to make sure that you can really do everything you need yourself. Such preparation will relieve you from many troubles and problems that people often face during repair. So consider more, what you will need to repair the toilet.

The tools will need to be needed at the initial stage of repair when you prepare the surfaces to further processing. The required set of tools for repair in the toilet includes:

Perforator. It will come in handy to effectively and quickly remove concrete plinths and chop out ceramic tiles. And he is also needed to drill holes under plug and furniture;
Toothed spatula - used to distribute adhesive composition on ceramic tiles;
Sculpture. This tool will also have an indispensable assistance in disassembling the old furniture and the assembly of the new one. It is desirable to have a screwdriver with a solid set of bits. It can replace a multifunctional twig, but work with it is much slower than with a screwdriver;
Truboresis and special apparatus for welding plastic pipes. Overhaul in the toilet requires replacement of communications. An excellent alternative to old metal pipes are new metal-plastic or plastic pipes. To install them, you will need these tools;
A set of keys. Need to install plumbers;
Roulette, meter. Like all other construction work, repair requires accuracy. Therefore, without measuring instruments can not do;
Rollers, brushes - they perform primer, waterproofing, finishing works;
Level, plumb - allow you to control the observance of the strict horizontal or vertical of the rows when finishing;
Other tools - a file, hammer, hacksaw, chisels, chisel, etc. They can also be needed in the process of repair. It is advisable to have them at hand to such a case.

As you can see, a set of tools for repairing toilet is not so great. Difficulties can only cause a pipe or perforator welding machine. But today they can be easily acquired or even rented. So, if you wish, you will not be difficult to acquire all necessary for independent work.

Since the toilet is a close room, it is necessary to free it as much as possible before starting repair work. If you leave the plumber in the toilet, then, firstly, you will be terribly inconvenient to perform any actions, secondly, some tasks will simply be impossible to implement, and thirdly, in the process of work, you hopelessly spoil the pluck with random blows, construction mixtures and other materials. Therefore, of course, plumbing will have to be removed, even if you are not going to change it. But usually, when repairing in the toilet, the replacement of plumbing is still carried out. And in this case, in general, there is no reason to leave the plumbing in its places. But it is necessary to remove it correctly, following the faithful sequence of actions:

The first thing to be done, starting to dismantle the plumbing, is to block the water supply. Hot and cold water cranes are completely closed;
After that, you can start withdrawing plumbing. Starting with the sink if it is available. After it, it will be necessary to remove the toilet.

Here it is necessary to take into account an important point associated with the main inconvenience caused by the repair in the toilet. If during the work of the inhabitants of the house there is where to live, then it is fine. But if it is possible to temporarily leave the house, it will be problematic and simply impossible to live in it without toilet. Therefore, the toilet is recommended to take a last time. Every day, before starting work, it will have to be dismantled, and after their completion - to install and connect to the sewage. This is not the most convenient option, but no other way to cope with this problem has not yet invented. However, this inconvenience serves as a specific incentive to complete all work as soon as possible so that the inhabitants of the house can return to the normal regime of life.

However, the urgent need to remove the toilet at the very beginning of the repair work, no. You can do this only at the stage of replacement of pipes. But no matter how cool, the original scheme of the daily dismantling and returning to the toilet to the place is impossible to replace anything. After all, perform a complete replacement of pipes in one day is unlikely to succeed.

We bring to your attention the correct sequence of dismantling the sink:

After overlapping hot and cold water cranes, you need to check whether there is no water supply. To do this, open the cranes and make sure that the water of them does not flow. Do not forget to drain water from the toilet bowl. Otherwise, in the process of dismantling, it can pour out and pour the entire floor, as well as the ceiling of your neighbors below;
Fastening the sink to the wall is carried out using brackets. Additional support for the sink itself can create a decorative pedestal, or "foot". This element is covered with drain pipes and water pipes that stretch to the sink and from it. If there is a sink in your toilet with a pedestal, then it is necessary to start it with this decorative "leg". It should be connected to the bottom with the floor. It is necessary to find fasteners and disconnect them. After that, the pedestal should be easily separated from the overall design of the shell. Gently pull it out and remove it;
Now you can do pipes and connections. Under the bowl, it is necessary to put a basin, since water is probably the water remained in the pipes, and it will turn out when you disconnect the bowl of the pipes;
If you want to progress, then twist the cumulative glass from the siphon. Drain water from it into a prepared basin, and then return the item to the place in the pipe system. Now you can remove the pipes under the whole sink. This pipe system is attached to the shell of a wrench. Lay the nut on the bottom from the outside of the sink and unscrew it. You can work with your hands, without a key. Hold the siphon and carefully scroll the nut counterclockwise. It must unleash without problems;
When you unscrew the nut, you can remove the pipe with the siphon with a hose going to the sewer tube. The entire pipe system disconnected from the sink can now be disconnected from the sewerage, simply by removing the end of the hose. The sewer pipe as a result will be open, and slicer air can act from it. It is recommended to plug the hole with a rag or obscure the lid;
Now the cereals came to disconnect the hoses for which the water enters the cranes of the shell. Wrench keys will help you in performing this task. As a rule, the range of sanitary connections is from 19 to 30. But other keys may be needed. Fastening the hoses is unscrewed, they are removed;
Now you can remove the bowl itself. If you are not going to change the sink during the repair process, then take it out of the room gently. Without removing mixers or cranes. If you plan to replace, then the mixers can be removed.

Thus, from one end of the situation in the toilet you have already got rid of. Now you can move to the dismant of the toilet. Do not forget to consider the position of your households. Perhaps in your case will better remove the toilet a little later. But advice on competent implementation of this operation will be useful to you.

Disassembly of the toilet includes the removal of the toilet itself and its tank. This happens as follows:

In the process of removing the toilet, all cranes should also be blocked. Do not forget to drain the water from the tank. We warn you about it, if suddenly the removal of the toilet will be carried out a few days after you remove the sink;
After you have verified that the water supply is stopped, it is necessary to disconnect the hose that supplies water from the water pipeline to the tank. It is removed from the side of the tank, and on the side of the pipe;
If your toilet tank is attached to the wall, then these connections must be safely removed and removed. If the tank is attached directly to the bottom of the toilet, then you need to find bolts connecting them and unscrew them. After that, carefully remove the tank and take it out of the toilet;
Now you need to do the basis. Disconnect a wide pipe that reaches from the rear bottom of the toilet to the sewage. This pipe is called "corrugation". It is easy to remove it: pull the corrugation from the toilet, and from the sewage termination - just pull out. It is not necessary to use the corrugation. It is best to throw it right away, and when installing plumbing to use a new one. But if you install the toilet daily after the end of the work, and the next day to shoot again, that is, it makes sense to leave the old corrugation;
Now the toilet hold only the bolts screwed into the floor. Some models are attached to the hairpins or screws. Using the appropriate key, unscrew these connections;
Now try slightly shaking the toilet and remove it. It may turn out if it was installed only on fasteners, without the use of cement. If the cement was used during installation, then, most likely, you will have to say goodbye to this toilet. Even by unscrewing fasteners, you are unlikely to be able to simply move the toilet from its concrete base. Most likely that in the process of disconnecting the plumbing just crawls. And then you will not have anything else, except, to buy and install a new toilet. But repair and is being done for the sake of updating!
However, in some cases it is possible to save even the toilet, which was previously standing on a concrete solution. If you plan to return the old toilet to the place, then carefully remove it and remove it from the repaired zone in order to accidentally not split it or not spoil with various construction mixtures.

Now that plumbing is removed, you can proceed to the preparation of the walls, namely, the elimination of the previous finishes, so that then perform fresh repair of the toilet with your own hands. Photo, ideas of modern solutions, see our article!

Before repair, you need to eliminate old materials that are covered with all surfaces in the room. Which would not be the floor in the bathroom or how would you love old tiles, when repairing the repair, all this will have to dismantle to clear the place for new, more modern materials and stylish solutions. Old coatings, especially in places such as a bathroom, over time absorbed unpleasant odors. And if you leave some surface with the old finish, then, firstly, it will look dotted against the background of the renewed walls, and secondly, it can fill the room with the most unpleasant odor. So get rid of the whole old one.

It is also necessary to carefully purify surfaces associated with the fact that it is impossible to put primer to the old finishing materials, which provides a strong compound of adhesive compositions with decorative materials. Laid on the old coatings, the finish will very quickly begin to give cracks, fall off and lose an attractive appearance. As a result, the next repair will not make himself wait.

It must be said that modern toolkit allows you to perform this stage of repair work relatively quickly. For example:

Ceramic tile is convenient to chop out a perforator equipped with a spatula-chisel;
The construction hairdryer will help to quickly get rid of the old paint, which under the influence of heating will be fading well with a spatula. As well as painted walls can be treated with a grinding machine equipped with a metal brush;
For simple and quick elimination of the old plaster, the surface is wetted with water. When the coating is splashing, it will be possible to easily remove the spatula;
The least worries create wallpapers. True, they are not so often found in the bathrooms. In order to quickly hang them, you need to moisten the wall with water, wait some time, and then remove the spatula;
After the processing of the walls and the ceiling, it is required to remove the floor covering. To do this, you can apply a perforator, chisel or carry out all the works manually, depending on the type of decorative coating.

When all surfaces are cleaned of the previous finishes, large protrusions are eliminated from them, remnants of garbage are removed. It is necessary to achieve maximum flattering surfaces. To do this, you can once again handle them with a grinding machine equipped with a metal brush.

After disassembling the old coatings in the room, many garbage will accumulate. Before proceeding to the next stage, the garbage must be taken out so that it will not be interfered with the legs. After that, all the surfaces are brushed once again. You can use a vacuum cleaner to collect all the small particles of dust and dirt. After that, printing and waterproofing can be performed:

The primer on the surface of the toilet is applied with two targets: first, due to her all decorative coatings are perfectly connected with surfaces. It improves the quality of the finish, makes it reliable and durable. Secondly, the antiseptic primer composition has antifungal action, that is, prevents the appearance of mold. And this is essential for such a wet room like a toilet. Ground surfaces in the toilet must be twice. The first layer must be completely dryed before the second one will be applied;
When the second layer is dry, you can go to the next step. It consists in the floor insulation device. This is an optional stage, but believe me, it will not save you from unpleasant situations and the need to find out the relationship with neighbors. Waterproofing provides protection against moisture penetration, and for such a room, like a toilet, this is especially important. Many communications are laid here - plumbing, sewage. And no one is insured against trouble in the form of the underlying pipe and other accidents. If you perform high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, then protect your neighbors and yourself from damage, which may cause similar situations.

You can arrange waterproofing in different ways. But for the toilet, the optimal and most affordable option is the coating waterproofing. It is distributed on the shakes of the floor and walls in the form of strips, a width of 150-180 mm.

Then, on the wet strips, laid on the joints, the waterproofing tape is put down, which should be pressed into the coating. This element provides additional leakage protection;
Now we must wait for waterproofing at the junctions dry. After that, you can distribute the coating over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe floor with a latter layer. When this layer is dry, you can apply the second and third to ensure maximum protection. But every next layer should only be overlapped on a well-fastened previous one.

When an important task of the waterproofing device is solved, you can move to more urgent problems, namely to replace pipes.

Calculating repair in the toilet involves the replacement of communications. Given the condition of the housing stock, such a measure is most often just necessary. New pipes will allow you to enjoy a good water pressure and clean water.

An excellent alternative for old metal pipes are modern metal-plastic pipes, or simply plastic. Their characteristics are excellent, so we recommend to stop your choice on them. But in order to put new pipes, you must first release the place for them and remove the old ones. To do this, use the grinder or grinding with the appropriate nozzle. When the pipes are cut, they can be folded more compact and throw out. Now, when the place is free, you can begin to create a new layout of clean and high-quality pipes. You can pave new communications as well as old, but you can choose more comfortable places.

If you do not know how to perform this type of work and experience uncertainty, it is better not to risk and hide for this responsible part of the repair of a professional. A good wizard will help you choose the optimal wiring scheme and installation of accounting devices, cranes, compounds, etc.

Ideal time to replace pipes in the apartment - replacement of the rising throughout the entrance. At the same time, all owners of apartments located in one riser have the opportunity to make new pipes in the bathroom and toilet and connect them most conveniently to a new common riser. But such luck falls infrequently. Therefore, it is necessary to repel from the conditions that are currently available.

If you plan to use waterometers and various water filters installed directly on the pipes, then the wiring can be quite complicated. If nothing is planned, the wiring will be simple and convenient for installation. It is often more correct and more convenient to install new pipes in the same places in which old one. Look at the basic wiring options:

The simplest layout is a tee. It is it that can most often meet in the toilets and bathrooms of apartments in high-rise buildings. This scheme suggests:
Pipes for hot and cold water for connecting in the sink;
Hot and cold water pipes for bath connection;
Tees for the formation of taps from the main pipe;
Corners for pipe turns in the desired side;
Check valves;
Nozzles for washing machine and toilet tank;
Water accounting devices;
Pressure gearboxes for stabilization. This element is especially important if regular pressure drops are observed;
Filters;
Overlapping valves.

The wiring is carried out from central water supply risers. The weak point of such a layout is the unevenness of water supply during its simultaneous use at different points.

Another type of layout is a collector. Her difference is that each water fence point has its own connection to the water supply manifold. Due to this, the water is evenly distributed across all points, the uniform pressure is ensured even with simultaneous operation of several points.

You can perform such a wiring, but for this it will not be possible to replace the pipes only in the toilet. We will have to completely rebuild water communications throughout the apartment. You can install collectors in the toilet, on the back wall, as, as a rule, there are also central risers nearby. In this case, the rear wall is covered with decorative panels.

Components of wiring with collectors are:

Valves providing water intake in a heated towel rail or immediately in a wiring around the apartment;
Main crane for hot water;
Main Crane for Cold Water;
Filters;
Accounting devices;
Pressure reducer;
Collectors for cold and hot water, connected to each point of water intake separately.

In such a system, you can include a storage water heater. At the same time, when switching to its use, it will be necessary to overlap the crane leading to intra-ordinary wiring. Such a boiler will be comfortable to hang in the toilet. At the same time, there are separate nuances of this operation that need to know before starting work.

In the process of performing the installation of pipes, consider exactly where the sink is mounted, if, of course, it is provided in your bathroom.

This parameter must be foreseen at this stage, because it will achieve more aesthetic in the design of the toilet. For example, if the sink is to stand at the wall on which the collector is located, the connecting hoses that stretch to the sink can be closed by the same box as the collector itself.

If another place is provided for the sink, then in this case the hoses can also be closed by the box. But it will be more practical to drown them into the wall. It is easy to do this, but you have to joke, because for this you need to wipe in the wall of the shoes - grooves in the concrete in which the pipes will be shed. Outside, only the fitting will remain to attach the mixer.

This method of disguise pipes fits perfectly into the bathroom repair project, providing for the walls of the walls with ceramic tiles.

When you complete work with communications, then all outputs, open fittings, or outlets, you need to gently shut up rags or obscure the lids to prevent clogging of new pipes and getting garbage.

The sewer tube passing under the sink is also not an ornament toilet. Therefore, it is also recommended to be stubbing into the box, drown into the wall or to the floor. This is also done by handing out the proper size of the corresponding size and the room in it. Another end of this pipe is connected to a sewer tube stretching from toilet bowl to the riser.

At the same stage, it is worth solving the issue of a complete replacement of sewage riser. Of course, with perfect design, it is desirable to solve this problem, especially if the state of the current pipe leaves much to be desired. But it is very problematic in a separate apartment. It is best to agree with the neighbors and make this work together, replacing the entire riser at once.

On this work related to pipes, completed. Now you can safely switch to creating beauty, amenities and comfort. First of all, it is recommended to finish with pipes. Whatever they are new and neat, after all, I want to close them with something more aesthetic. We will talk about the ways to mask communications.

The optimal way to disguise those pipes that cannot be impeded in the wall is to make a decorative box for them. Consider the technology of its device:

The basis of the box is a frame that we framed the sewer and plumbing pipes. Then plasterboard sheets will be attached to this frame.

As a material for a frame, you can choose a wooden timber. A stronger and reliable design can be built from metal products. But for a small box, it is quite enough wooden base. The frame should be perfectly smooth, exactly fitted in size. Therefore, all its details must be carefully measured, carefully cut and interleve each other. Control the horizons and verticals when installing a frame using a level. Fasteners of elements are carried out by self-drawing.

The frame is installed below the wall, if all the layout pipes are located there. Another framework is built for sewage, vertical.

In some cases, you have to build a frame for the entire wall. It is extremely important not to forget to make a window through which you can inspect and repair hidden communications. This window must be in any box, regardless of its size. Lack of such a window forcing you to disassemble the entire box at the first accident. And also note that you have to regularly take testimony from the counters, so that access must be accessible to them.

Looking enders - not the only thing to be provided when creating a box for pipes. Another important aspect is ventilation. Very often, the ventilating hole in the toilets of apartment buildings is located in the far wall near the ceiling. It is impossible to cover this hole in any way! If you plan to install the box in this place, then for the venting hole you need to make a separate box, in which the exhaust fan will be installed after the finishing works.
When all the frames found their places, they can be selected with the selected material. It should be focused on the ability of the material to take a decorative finish. The optimal option is plasterboard sheets. But in some cases it is quite possible to apply plywood sheets. Fastening during the trim are performed by appropriate fasteners;
If you have chosen as a plaster for a frame of plasterboard, then after mounting the sheets, do not forget to treat joints in a special way. They are strengthened with sickle and put off. It is necessary to sharpen the hats with a self-tapping screw, so that the rust does not stick from them on the top finish;
Now you have to think about the door for the viewing holes. Title, from which material you will do the doors, and which material will be used in general to finish the box. This will help you determine when you need to install the box for the door and fastening for it.

if you plan to leave the box with wallpaper, then for the mounting of the door, choose furniture loops. In this case, the door is installed on the frame before its finishes;
if you do not hang the door, and install the blinds in the opening, you can install them after finishing the box;
if the box will be trimmed with PVC panels, then the door can be made of them. In this case, the door is installed on the rail frame rail;
and also for the door, you can construct a special frame under the size of the left holes. This frame is inserted into the box after the finish is complete. By perimeter, she is trimmed by bagent rails.

When the box is completely trimmed and covered, its surface must be covered with primer. Wait until the first layer is dry, and put primer again. Now, while the box dries, you can go to the finishing of other surfaces.

A bright example, how to perform repairs in the toilet, photo. With your own hands, you can implement all the solutions presented in our article. You can apply any materials suitable for rooms with high humidity levels. It is desirable that they are resistant to the effects of various negative factors: chemicals, detergents, fungus, etc. based on these requirements, can be offered ceramic tiles, plaster with primer impregnation, washable wallpaper, PVC sheets .

For the floor it is advisable to choose high-quality tiles. If such a traditional option does not suit you, we recommend paying attention to a self-leveling screed on an epoxy basis, in a different way it is called 3D-floors. This coating allows you to create multi-layered images that are characterized by a noticeable 3D effect. But this option can not be called affordable, as well as for self-implementing. Therefore, we offer more details to consider more affordable and traditional ways to finish surfaces in the toilet.

Features of the use of ceramic tiles when finishing toilet

Ceramic tile is an ideal option for finishing any premises with high humidity. Operational characteristics make this material optimal for use in the bathrooms. In addition, modern manufacturers offer the widest variety of colors and textures, which allows you to create really original combinations and compositions. But to achieve an impeccable result, it is not enough to choose high-quality tiles. It needs to be high quality. Consider more details of this process:

The surface on which you plan to lay a tile should be smooth. If the walls or gear in the toilet does not comply with this requirement, then the alignment of plasterboard or spitting.

A faster and simple alignment option is plasterboard. In addition to other advantages, this method is also the cleanest. Plasterboard sheets can be placed on the wall or mount on a dowel. Do not forget about the need to specially handle sheets of sheets and put the fastener caps. About how to do it correctly, we were told when the device was considered in detail for pipes.

If irregularities on the walls are expressed, it may be necessary to build a framework for fastening plasterboard sheets.

But in relation to the toilet, the use of sheets on the frame cannot be called very successful, as the frame will reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe already small room. Therefore, instead of a full-fledged frame, you can make a thin lamp from the rails of 15-20 mm thick.

After, it should be braced and wait for drying. After that, you can start laying tiles.

You need to start below. In the process of laying, do not forget to control the horizontal and verticality of the rows using the level. Leave between tiles equal distance helps special plastic crosses inserted into the seams.

Sometimes individual elements must be trimmed. It is necessary to do it with tiles or grinders with a special diamond circle;
The connection of the tile with the surface is carried out by means of a special composition. It is distributed on the wall with a toothed spatula, and then the tile is pressed to it;
When all rows are laid out, it is necessary to wait for the drying of the seams, and then process them with a grout, which is chosen in color scheme to the tone with general design;
When completed, you can do floors. It also needs to be aligned. The most convenient to apply a self-leveling mixture in this situation. It will take it a bit for the toilet, it will cost it inexpensively, and the result will be flawless.

Laying the tiles is one of the main stages that consist of the repair of the toilet with their own hands, the video from our article will help you to cope with him on perfectly!

Features of using PVC panels in the toilet finish

Using PVC panels is a simpler and accessible option, in comparison with the use of tiles. It is easier to work with this material, its installation is carried out much faster, and its value is lower. No dirty work is required. Fasten the panels on the walls can each. The main point that needs to be taken into account is strictly observing the evenness of each row.

Under the plastic trim, the frame is also installed. It levels the irregularities of the walls and allows you to mount the panels as soon as possible.

PVC panels do not differ in a long service life. At least it is much shorter than the life of high-quality ceramic tiles. But once the bag made will allow you to change the upper trim so often, as you need, and it will be very easy to do it.

Consider a Read more The process of plating the walls of PVC panels:

Let's start by mounting the frame on the ceiling. Do not forget to leave space for lighting devices. These can be point lights or one ceiling ceiling.
In practice, the root is performed simultaneously on the ceiling, and on the walls.
To create a frame on the ceiling, a metal profile or a timber is used. When the lamb is attached to the flow, electrical communications are carried out through it to the lighting places of the lighting devices. Naturally, when performing work, cables must be de-energized;
in places, the ceiling connection with walls are installed angular moldings. The grooves located in them will be the location of the wall panels;
the ceiling panels cut holes under the lighting devices;
after that, the panels begin to fasten the ceiling cut. Start the task of the wall. When the ceiling is covered, the walls of the wall begins.
On the walls, as in the ceiling, the frame is made. It is attached to the surface of the dowels. For horizontal laying of PVC panels, the frame must be vertical, for vertical mounting - horizontal.

Since the toilet is a small room, the framework must be done with the calculation of space saving. His racks in thickness should not exceed 20 mm. With the device of the root, it must be managed immediately in terms of level, as well as in the places of future fasteners to make lining.

The frame racks are installed in a step of 400-500 mm.

On the surface of the rails are attached to dowels. The holes are drilled immediately through the rail and the wall, then a plastic dowel is clogged into the hole, and in it - self-tapping screw.

Rake from the floor is attached to starting molding. It will hold the ends of the panels;
the panels located at the ceiling occupy their places in the corner molding that were mounted when the ceiling is trimmed;
corner molding is mounted and vertical angular parts to connect the extreme panels of two walls;
now the panels must be chopped in accordance with the height from the lower molding to the top;
installation of panels begins with angle. The first element is inserted into the grooves from three sides: from above, bottom, from the end directed to the angle. It is very important to install this panel as soon as possible, as it defines the fatality of the entire row;
mounting panels to the frame can be in several ways. You can use nails, scoring them into the hidden parts of the panels. Another way is to apply special kleimers that are put on the narrow side of the panel groove and connect with the rail. Such swipes allow partially to disassemble the laying of the panels. There are clips intended for installation panels. It is easy to use them, but in this case the usual frame will not fit. We will have to additionally mount the guides with which these clips will be connected.

Features of using washable wallpaper when finishing toilet

It would seem that wallpaper is not the most appropriate choice if you started repairing the toilet with your own hands. Video in our article can convince you in the opposite! Cut the toilet with washing wallpaper is one of the easiest and most affordable solutions. If approaching its implementation carefully and carefully, the result will be pretty good.

Of course, such a finish serves much less than ceramic tiles. But its price is more accessible. Therefore, changing washable wallpaper in the toilet can be at least every year.

Walls before salabing, too, need to align. As in the case of ceramic tiles, you can use drywall sheets. On them wallpaper will be wonderful.

Stick wallpaper bands need to join. Especially important accuracy and accuracy when working with wallpaper, on which there is a pronounced pattern.

This finish suits not only for the walls, but also for the ceiling. When choosing colors, keep in mind that light tones contribute to visual expansion of the room, and dark, on the contrary, make it visually closer.

Complete finishing with wallpaper Floor and ceiling plinths, selected in color.

After all the surfaces received a decent finish, you can place the plumbing places.

First, the installation of the toilet is performed. Work is performed in several stages:

Place of installation is carefully placed. To do this, the toilet must be put on its future place and circle a pencil or marker, and it is also necessary to highlight the places of attachment;
Now the toilet can be returned and armed with a perforator. At the noted points in the floor, holes under fasteners are drilled. Anchors or dowels are driven into them;
The toilet occupies its place and fixed fasteners. Bolt caps are covered with special decorative plastic overlays, which usually come complete with a toilet;
Now the toilet must be connected to sewage and water supply. To do this, the corrugation is put on the bottom hole of the toilet bowl and is connected to the sewer;
Next, the tank is connected. The connection method is determined by the model of the toilet:

the tank can be installed directly to the rear floor of the toilet. Then in the toilet and the tank must have appropriate holes for fasteners, and in the kit there must be special fasteners, seals, etc.;
if there are no such holes, it means that the tank should be attached to the wall, and with the toilet to be connected via a pipe that feeds water.

Thus, the tank is attached in accordance with the instructions attached in a specific model. In the same way, the drain mechanism is assembling. After that, you need to connect the tank with the plumbing system. To do this, use a special hose, which stretches from the tank to a special fitting on the pipe;
After that, the gaps between the floor and the base of the toilet are processed by sealant.

When the toilet is supplied, you can start installing the sink. Choosing this or that model, keep in mind the ability to hide the connections and pipes into the pedestal or bedside table. Installation of the shell is carried out as follows:

First you need to prepare the shell to install. And this assumes the installation and connection of connecting hoses. After installation, perform these manipulations will be much more complicated. You can immediately install the upper elements of the drain system to the siphon;
After preparation, you must attach the sink to the wall. Usually, anchors or brackets are used for this depending on the model;
Now you need to connect flexible hoses from the mixer to the pipe fittings. At this stage, it is recommended to install taps for fittings in order to be able to overlap water only at this point. If the cranes are installed, then the hoses are connected to their nozzles;
After that, the siphon is installed in place and connects to the hose leading to the sewer. Then all connections are checked for tightness;
Now you can install a pedestal or bedside table.

When all manipulations with plumbing are completed, it is necessary to check the systems for leakage. Drops should not appear on the cranes and pipes.

DIY repair in the toilet is quite able to those who really dream to implement their ideas and has at least a modest experience in building business. We hope that our article will be a good assistant for you in this matter!