Proper ventilation of a private home. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house: diagram, details, recommendations. Advantages of natural ventilation in a private home

There is no doubt about the need for ventilation in the house. The appearance of mold on walls and corners, increased humidity in the room (and this means additional stuffiness in summer and cold in winter) - all this is a consequence of stagnant air, saturated with human vapors. Over time, the fungus Discula brunneotingens settles on the walls, and a person has to breathe in its spores, forming colonies in wooden floors, frames and doors. The result is decreased immunity, allergic diseases and bronchial asthma, decreased psychological tone and chronic fatigue syndrome. But there is a solution to the problem, and more than one.

The principle of operation and the device of natural ventilation in a private house

Ventilation is a set of measures and devices that ensure the maintenance of continuous air exchange in residential and office premises. The following types of ventilation are distinguished:

Artificial and natural. The first assumes the presence of special devices, the second - their absence
Exhaust and supply. Separation occurs depending on the direction of movement of the air mass. Exhaust involves removing air, while supply involves pumping air into the premises.
General and local. This characteristic describes the ventilation coverage area.
Ductless and ducted. Classification occurs according to the presence (or absence) of air ducts.
Constant and periodic. Constant ventilation operates automatically, non-stop. Periodic occurs from time to time, it includes the opening of doors, windows and vents.

In addition to natural ventilation, you can arrange artificial (mechanical) or combine these two types into a combined version

In houses with many rooms for various purposes, as a rule, combined options for organizing ventilation are used. When considering each type separately, both advantages and disadvantages are revealed. In order to choose the best option, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with all possible types of ventilation.
The simplest and oldest way to ventilate rooms is natural ventilation.

Not only people, but also bears know about ventilation - when plunging into hibernation, they leave a small hole at the top of the den for the flow of fresh air.

The operating principle of natural ventilation is based on the known laws of aerodynamics.

Two physical parameters - temperature and pressure - control the flow of air masses from one place to another.

Air moves from an area of high pressure to an area of low pressure.
Warm air always tends upward, cold air always tends downwards.
The greater the pressure or temperature difference, the faster the air moves.

Knowledge of these simple patterns allows you to control ventilation in a house or apartment. If air masses move under the influence of natural factors, such ventilation is considered spontaneous. If the movement is caused by special holes made in the walls, then such air exchange is called organized. Organized natural ventilation is also divided into:

gravitational;
tiered;
aeration.

For most houses and apartments, natural ventilation is sufficient. Of course, provided that it is organized correctly and competently. Approximate and accurate calculations allow you to optimally use ventilation ducts, save time and materials, and choose the right places to install air passages and vents.

Air flows in a scheme with natural ventilation enter through special openings (2), pass through the rooms and are removed through the ventilation pipe (1) into the main ventilation shaft (3)

Calculation of ventilation and ventilation duct cross-section (taking into account the volume of the room)

Since supplying people with air in residential and industrial premises is a vital function, ventilation calculations are made in accordance with regulatory documents. These include:

SNB 4.02.01–03 - sanitary safety standards from the Ministry of Health;
SP 60.13330.2012 - a set of rules arising from the current Federal Laws and State Standards;
SNiP 41–01–2003 - building codes and regulations from the Ministry of Construction.

You can find out more about them on the official departmental websites.

Only an experienced specialist can accurately calculate all ventilation parameters. There are a large number of formulas and calculation tables that take into account various nuances of the movement of air masses, such as:

total area of the room;
the purpose of the premises as a whole and its individual components;
height of premises;
presence and number of exhaust ducts;
height of ventilation ducts;
functional purpose of ventilation.

Table: air flow in air ducts for designing ventilation systems

Duct parameters			Air flow (m³/h) at air speed:
Diameter round air duct	Dimensions rectangular air duct	Square sections air duct	2 m/s	3 m/s	4 m/s	5 m/s	6 m/s
	80×90 mm	72 cm²	52	78	104	130	156
Ø 100 mm	63×125 mm	79 cm²	57	85	113	142	170
	63×140 mm	88 cm²	63	95	127	159	190
Ø 110 mm	90×100 mm	90 cm²	65	97	130	162	194
	80×140 mm	112 cm²	81	121	161	202	242
Ø 125 mm	100×125 mm	125 cm²	90	135	180	225	270
	100×140 mm	140 cm²	101	151	202	252	302
Ø 140 mm	125×125 mm	156 cm²	112	169	225	281	337
	90×200 mm	180 cm²	130	194	259	324	389
Ø 160 mm	100×200 mm	200 cm²	144	216	288	360	432
	90×250 mm	225 cm²	162	243	324	405	486
Ø 180 mm	160×160 mm	256 cm²	184	276	369	461	553
	90×315 mm	283 cm²	204	306	408	510	612
Ø 200 mm	100×315 mm	315 cm²	227	340	454	567	680
	100×355 mm	355 cm²	256	383	511	639	767
Ø 225 mm	160×250 mm	400 cm²	288	432	576	720	864
	125×355 mm	443 cm²	319	479	639	799	958
Ø 250 mm	125×400 mm	500 cm²	360	540	720	900	1080
	200×315 mm	630 cm²	454	680	907	1134	1361
Ø 300 mm	200×355 mm	710 cm²	511	767	1022	1278	1533
	160×450 mm	720 cm²	518	778	1037	1296	1555
Ø 315 mm	250×315 mm	787 cm²	567	850	1134	1417	1701
	250×355 mm	887 cm²	639	958	1278	1597	1917
Ø 350 mm	200×500 mm	1000 cm²	720	1080	1440	1800	2160
	250×450 mm	1125 cm²	810	1215	1620	2025	2430
Ø 400 mm	250×500 mm	1250 cm²	900	1350	1800	2250	2700

When equipping housing with forced ventilation and using special equipment, the power indicators of the equipment are added to the list of calculated indicators - power, speed and volume of injected (or exhaust) air.

The ventilation system design is carried out on the basis of a floor plan, which displays all routes and indicates the dimensions and purpose of functional elements

If ventilation planning is carried out at the design stage of a house, separate drawings are drawn up with the calculation of all indicators and checking their compliance with established standards. The project is certified by competent organizations and included in the general action plan for housing construction.

An approximate calculation of ventilation parameters can be carried out independently. To do this you need to know the following:

For every square meter of living space there should be 3 m 3 of air for one hour.
Each individual room (separated from the rest by a door) has its own specifics:
- a kitchen with a gas stove or hot water heater must be provided with supply air in a volume of 70 m 3 /h;
- kitchen with electric stove - 50 m 3 /h;
- the toilet “consumes” 30 m 3 of air per hour;
- bathroom - 50 m 3 /h;
- hallway, wardrobe, pantry - 15 m 3 per hour;
- living rooms - no less than 30 m 3 /h.

Sanitary standards provide for the calculation of the ventilation system taking into account the number of people constantly present in the house. This small addition can have a significant impact on the overall ventilation picture.

The calculation is carried out not only by the volume of air, but also by the number of people in the building

Based on these data, approximate parameters of the air ducts are calculated. It is taken into account that the average speed of air flow from the channel is 1.0–2.5 m/sec. The diameter of the ventilation duct is selected taking into account the total volume of air in the home. As practice shows, for a one-story building with natural ventilation, the air pipe, depending on the volume of the internal space, should have the following dimensions:

with a volume of 200 m 3 - a diameter of at least 18 cm;
for a room of 400 m 3 - 25 cm;
if the interior of the house occupies 600 m3 or more - 32 cm.

These values can be used when calculating an air duct having a square or rectangular cross-section using the formula S = πR 2, where S is the cross-sectional area of the circle (expressed in m 2), π is the number “pi” equal to 3.14, and R is radius of the circle. Having found the value of the area of the circle, you can select the size of the rectangular ventilation duct. At the same time, it needs to be increased by 20–25%, since the throughput of round pipes is always higher than that of rectangular ones. The accepted ratio of the short side of the rectangle to the long side is 1:3.

If you use rectangular ducts instead of round ones, their cross-section needs to be increased by 20–25%

The use of forced ventilation - installing a blower fan - reduces the required pipe sizes. This occurs due to an increase in the speed of air movement in the channel. Thus, for rooms with a volume of 200, 400 and 600 m3, channels with a diameter of 11, 18 and 23 cm can be used, respectively.

Video: DIY basement ventilation

Pros and cons of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is that its installation does not require large financial costs.

Once installed, the air exhaust system does not require frequent maintenance.

She works as much as the house costs. The design of this type of ventilation is simple and rarely leads to any complications or accidents. There are no electrical devices inside the system that increase background noise. Air movement occurs naturally, without mechanical forcing. The advantages include good compatibility of natural ventilation with other ventilation methods. Most often, it is the combination of natural and forced ventilation systems that gives optimal results.

Disadvantages of a natural ventilation system:

There is no way to regulate the air flow rate. This can cause moisture and dampness to stagnate inside, leading to mold and mildew.
Dust and insects easily penetrate inside through the supply channels. This reduces comfort and forces more frequent cleaning of the room. This can be partially compensated for by installing mosquito nets, but it should be taken into account that this also reduces the flow of clean air.
Heat losses are high in the cold season. Some experts say the figure could be as high as 40%.
Dependence on weather conditions. The higher the air temperature outside the house, the less effective the ventilation is.

Interestingly, in hot Mediterranean countries such as Spain, Italy or Portugal, ventilation in residential buildings is provided by so-called patios - courtyards shaped like a vertical well. The sun practically does not penetrate into the patio, and all the windows and balconies face this direction.

Video: natural ventilation at home

Increasing the efficiency of natural ventilation

The efficiency of natural ventilation can be significantly increased by installing supply valves on windows. Their cost is low, and installation is simple and can be done independently. Most often, such devices are used for plastic windows. The fact is that the double-glazed window is connected to the frame quite tightly, and this sometimes turns into a negative side - moisture accumulates in the room, and mold may appear. To compensate for this phenomenon, supply valves were developed, with the help of which it became possible to regulate the degree of ventilation through the window. The device is installed in the upper part of the frame. Due to its small size, installing the valve does not in any way affect the reduction of light flow through the window.

Mortise supply valves help increase the efficiency of the ventilation system for plastic windows

The supply valve is part of the natural ventilation that supplies fresh air inside the room. The operating principle of the device is based on the hygroscopic properties of certain materials (special nylon tapes), which change their linear dimensions under the influence of moisture. The valve changes the air supply automatically (but some models also have manual control). This happens due to the narrowing or expansion of the air duct.

Types of supply valves

There are metal and plastic devices. Metal valves are reliable in operation, but they are more expensive and heavier.

There is a filter element inside the valve that needs to be changed every six months

These devices are usually divided into two categories:

When using mechanical devices in winter, you should remember that you cannot close the valve completely - it may freeze. And if you try to open it with physical force, it will break.

Installation of the supply valve

As noted above, installation of the device does not require special skills or tools. Each product comes with detailed instructions, following which you can install the device yourself.

For this you need:

construction knife;
screwdriver;
roulette.

The installation kit includes:

supply valve;
fasteners;
seal.

Installation on a window is carried out in several stages:

How to make ventilation with your own hands

Each house is a separate story with its own characteristics and architectural nuances. If the house has already been built, then it will have ventilation that will occur naturally. The situation can be corrected only with the help of coercive measures - mechanical or combined. Let's pay attention to the main requirements that the ventilation system must meet:

Properly functioning ventilation should not reduce the room temperature during the cold season.
There should be no persistent drafts in the house.
“Stale” air from kitchens, baths and toilets must be quickly removed from the premises and replaced with fresh air.
Circulation should cover all rooms without exception - closets, basements, corridors, etc.
The system must provide a constant supply of fresh air and removal of stale air.

The surest solution to all issues related to ventilation is to install a circulation system at the stage of planning and building a house. Depending on the size of the living area, the location of office premises and the number of people living in the house, one or two natural ventilation channels are designed. They are vertical shafts that rest on the foundation of the house and extend above the roof. This is realized using various construction technologies.

The dimensions of the ventilation riser in apartment buildings are calculated according to standard methods

One such solution can be the installation of ready-made ventilation blocks in a load-bearing wall. Another option is an independent ventilation duct made of brick. Large-diameter metal pipes are used indoors to create air flows. For aesthetic reasons, they are hidden under suspended ceilings or inside walls. Decorative plastic grilles are installed at the ends.

The ends of the air intakes are decorated with decorative plastic grilles

The same grilles are mounted at the bottom of the door leaf if the room is deaf, has no windows and is inaccessible for ventilation. In houses that are heated by stoves, the chimney pipe can play the role of a ventilation shaft.

Door grilles are installed in rooms with insufficient ventilation

Advice from experienced professionals on organizing ventilation in the house

Design of a ventilation device before construction begins

These tips will help those who plan to install ventilation from scratch.

The optimal location for the ventilation shaft is the central part of the building. During the cold season, the temperature difference inside the room will always be higher, which will lead to increased air draft.
The installation of a ventilation riser is best tied to a load-bearing wall - it will always be warmer there than in other places, which will create additional conditions for the movement of air masses.
It is better to install ventilation ducts along the load-bearing walls of the building
When choosing air ducts, you need to take into account your specific situation. If there is enough space, you can install round air ducts. They work great to create intense traction. If installation takes place in cramped conditions, rectangular channels are better suited - they take up less space and are more compact to install.
A variety of air ducts allows you to solve any problem in the installation of ventilation systems
When choosing round channels, you should know that rigid pipes work more efficiently - air moves through them without encountering resistance. Corrugated pipes can create noise, but they are much easier to install. Experts advise using rigid pipes whenever possible, resorting to corrugated ones only in cases of extreme necessity.
Corrugated metal ducts are less efficient than rigid round ducts, so they are used only when necessary
Exhaust air ducts of the same diameter must be used. Contractions and expansions negatively affect the speed of air movement. If deviations are unavoidable, they should be made by smooth pipe bends.
The narrowing of the air duct can only be done as smoothly as possible
The wider and higher the riser of the main shaft, the better the ventilation will work.
The installation height of the ventilation duct on the roof depends on its distance from the highest point of the roof
All pipe connections in the system must be made even and smooth. Unevenness and roughness inside the pipe create noticeable resistance to the passage of air.
The system should have as few turns as possible in the horizontal and vertical planes. Any turn reduces air speed by 10–12%.

Tips for those who are upgrading existing ventilation

If the house was built a long time ago, but for some reason the ventilation no longer meets the needs of the residents, use little tricks that will improve the system.

In wooden houses, it is very important to ventilate the underground space, which is in direct contact with the ground.

To do this, vents are installed along the entire perimeter of the external walls. But another good solution is to bring the air intake into the underground from the ash pan of the stove. In this case, during the heating of the furnace, air will be taken from the underground space. This achieves a solution to two important problems at once - ventilation of the underground and preservation of heat in living quarters (in normal furnace mode, combustion air comes from the living area).

Without food, a person can survive for a month and a half. Without water - a week. Only trained yogis can live without air for more than 15 minutes. Taking care of clean air is a key condition for a healthy and fulfilling human life.

A ventilation duct in a private house is the only way to get fresh air in a living space. The air flow must be constant so that each family member can remain healthy. Creating ventilation is not difficult, but choosing one of the options is not easy. The house diagram will help in this matter, because the future hood will depend on the structure itself. And it will provide the residents of the house with protection from mold, fungi, and dampness.

Types of ventilation in a private house

Installing ventilation in a private house will become an integral part of the building. Construction experts say that this particular work requires a lot of effort. In a private house you can create two options for exhaust systems:

exhaust ventilation;
supply and exhaust.

Exhaust ventilation will allow the air inside the room to freely flow out through forced intervention, and fresh air will flow through the ducts naturally.

The supply and exhaust circuit implies a forced discharge and influx of fresh air into the house. This scheme is much more difficult to implement, the prices for the elements are more expensive, and therefore it is rarely used in the construction of small private houses.

In turn, each of the proposed ventilation systems can be divided into centralized exhaust and decentralized. In the first case, a special ventilation unit is used. With its help, air circulates in the room. The second option involves the placement of several units throughout the system. Each of them works independently of the others and is installed in every room of the house.

Natural ventilation and its disadvantages

A private house may have a system such as natural ventilation. It is not always possible to create it with your own hands in a complete form. This issue arose acutely when most people began to use plastic windows and insulation for walls. The situation gave rise to numerous problems– increased dampness, the formation of fungus and mold in the house. Such problems did not arise when old windows were used, because they let fresh air through the cracks. The draft created the necessary conditions to reduce dampness in the corners of a private house.

This ventilation system uses the operating principle of vertical channels. They are installed indoors at one end, and the other is brought out just above the roof of the house. Since the air in the room is warmer than that around the room, it is pushed into the exhaust duct and contributes to the intake of a new portion of air from the outside space. This ventilation system involves many factors that are beyond human control - ambient temperature, wind, and you can make the channel cross-section with your own hands to the desired diameter.

If you turn to construction specialists, they claim that such a ventilation system for a private house will only work if the temperature of the external space is equal to no higher than 12 degrees on the Celsius scale. If it gets hotter, the hood starts to work much worse.

This situation may seem ideal for the winter season, but there is a special drawback that cannot be ignored. Since the temperature difference in the house and outside is quite noticeable, the ventilation system begins to work faster. The heat that has accumulated in the house during the day literally flies down the drain. Therefore, residents of private houses spend more resources on heating their premises than required under normal conditions.

The ventilation scheme for a private house involves the creation of such channels in the bathrooms. Often such hoods can be seen in the kitchen, basement and a number of other rooms where it is necessary to carry out a large outflow of air from the room. Particular attention should be paid to rooms that are located in a private house below ground level. Radon gas often forms in them. To reduce its quantity, it is recommended to build powerful ventilation duct.

The same experts say that sometimes these measures are not enough. In this case, the rationality of the system is completely lost. This is what people use, who can open the window at any time, create a strong air flow in the rooms and quickly ventilate the house. Only one nuance is lost - such a ventilation system is unacceptable, as it puts all residents of the room at risk of disease.

As a result, there are significant drawbacks - ventilation in a private house of this type implies uncontrolled air flows, and also does not allow regulating the outflow and inflow.

Options for improving natural ventilation

You can always improve the effect of natural ventilation in a private home, even with your own hands. For this purpose it is necessary use a special valve. It is customary to install it at the entrance to the channel located indoors. This device is equipped with automation that responds to humidity. If an increase in the indicator is observed in the room, the automatic relay is activated and the valve opens the channel more. Otherwise, it closes. The sensitive element is a sensor that is mounted outside the house and receives an ambient temperature signal.

When the cold season comes, the valve must be closed with your own hands. This nuance will reduce the entry of cold air into the house through the ventilation duct. Unfortunately, even this control option is not able to hide all the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system.

Forced ventilation It can also be installed in a private home using another valid method. This option will be much cheaper than the previous one, but it will require more effort to maintain it. This involves installing special grilles with valves on the air inflow and outflow channels. Moreover, the latter are controlled exclusively manually. Adjustment is carried out when the ambient temperature changes. It is recommended to change the position of the ventilation valve at least once a season.

The latest option for improving the natural ventilation system is to install special fans on the ducts. A similar type of exhaust hood system can be seen in the kitchen. The only downside is what happens destabilization of the entire ventilation system. In other words, air may start coming from a duct in a pantry or back room.

Forced ventilation in a private house

This ventilation option can only be considered if a sufficient amount of fresh air enters the private house. The disadvantage of the hood is the difficulty of dismantling it, which may be needed for a variety of reasons.

A secondary problem is the reduction in channel performance. At this moment, a decrease in circulation is observed. The room is left without the required amount of fresh air. It is recommended to install such ventilation in the basement or basement, where the risk of dampness is much higher than in other parts of a private residential building. Experience shows that there are no problems with installation and adjustment of proper air outflow and inflow. This procedure can be done with your own hands in a short period of time.

Do not forget that the hood diagram may also imply presence of fans. These devices are able to regulate the flow of fresh air. Any owner can install them with his own hands.

Supply ventilation in the house

One of the problems of a private home is the lack of fresh air. Therefore, its supply should be forced. You can achieve the desired result using a special device called supply valve. In addition to the main function, it is able to provide:

minimizing noise from the outside world that enters a private home;
air filtration;
thermal insulation of the body, which reduces the likelihood of freezing, as well as the creation of condensation;
You can regulate the operation of the device with your own hands.

Each ventilation duct for a home will require additional installation of this device. In extreme cases, you can get by with one valve, provided there is centralized ventilation.

The functioning of the valve depends on the temperature difference between the room and the outside world. During the operation of forced exhaust, adjustment is carried out manually.

Supply and exhaust circuit with installation of a recuperator

If a supply and exhaust ventilation system is used in a private house, improve its performance possible by installing a recuperator. The device heats the air supplied to the premises. The principle of operation is to heat the air through the air that is removed from the house. However, the system does not mix them. In the summer, you can install the reverse process in the house. The air entering through the forced ventilation duct can be cooled.

This technique deservedly leads among the most diverse options for hoods around the world. According to experts, this scheme has the future, which allows you to manage energy-saving technologies. The cost of this system is high. If you use it constantly, then after a short period of time it will fully recoup the costs.

Creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands

The time has come when all the elements of the ventilation puzzle in a private home are assembled. Selected specific exhaust system, the material has been purchased and all that remains is to install all the elements correctly. The first step is to understand what calculations should be made before installing ventilation. One of them is to calculate the required amount of fresh air. This parameter will be needed when installing channels, as well as when selecting additional equipment.

Calculation of ventilation by area of the house

This calculation is carried out in order to obtain accurate data on air exchange. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances that may affect the result:

Choosing an air duct cross-section for a private house

When it becomes necessary to select the diameter of the ventilation duct, The following system is used:

the minimum channel diameter should not be lower than 150 millimeters;
under ideal conditions (vertical installation of the channel, length 3 meters), this diameter allows you to obtain 30 cubic meters of air per hour;
when it is necessary to increase the air flow, the length and cross-section of the selected channel increases;
on the same floor of the house, the length of the exhaust ducts should be the same. In this way, you can achieve uniform distribution of air throughout the house;
The diameter of the ventilation ducts is set to the same for ease of installation of the ventilation system.

Ventilation system in a wooden private house

The peculiarity of creating a hood in wooden houses is that the material independently allows air into the room. That is why such buildings are recommended additionally seal. This is achieved through plastic windows, installation of special insulation, and windproof film. That is why it is necessary to install a special ventilation duct, since the natural flow of fresh air is significantly reduced.

From time immemorial, houses were built without ventilation. It was important to wall up all the cracks through which drafts, dampness, rodents and insects could seep in. In our twenty-first century, we have succeeded so much in this that the situation has changed radically. Impenetrable walls and modern ones do not leave the cold a single chance. But at the same time, the quality of the air is lost - it becomes damper, or vice versa - dry, or there is simply not enough of it. Ventilation helps only for a short time. One way or another, owners of country real estate, accustomed to solving problems on their own, have a question: how to make a hood in a private house with your own hands.

Technical standards

According to the current legislation, everything is divided into two types - these are garden buildings and the so-called individual housing construction projects (abbreviated as IHC). The first are intended for seasonal residence, the second - for permanent residence. In the first case, there are very few rules and they mainly concern the location of buildings and changes in their status, leaving many technical aspects unattended. In the second, standards for residential premises apply.

For garden houses

In this case, the law does not oblige the establishment of any communications. However, such a need arises when condensation appears on the walls and becomes... Another indicator is the smell of dampness and decaying organic materials from which the structure is built. Wooden buildings are least susceptible to such misfortunes. When constructing block or, you should seriously think about how they will be ventilated.

In hot summer weather, the windows are usually open, but in cold weather, the heat from the stove can cause a headache, and the inevitable burst of ventilation will lead to the need to urgently add more firewood. The problem makes itself felt when the temperature drops below zero. If the building is sufficiently insulated so that it can be lived in in winter, all technical recommendations for construction suitable for a residential building are suitable for it.

For individual housing construction

A number of restrictions are introduced by the Government of the Russian Federation Decree No. 47 “On approval of the Regulations on recognizing premises as residential” and sanitary rules SP 60.13330.2012:

It is not allowed to install ventilation ducts at a distance of less than 10 cm from the electrical wiring and;
It is strictly forbidden to combine air ducts of kitchens and bathrooms, as well as other non-residential areas with residential ones. The latter include bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms;
It is impossible to design systems in which outflow from one apartment to another is possible if there are two or more apartments in the building.

It also says that each square meter must comply with current sanitary standards for multiplicity. This term refers to the ratio of the volume of air masses to the space they pass through per unit time. According to this parameter, the sanitary rules SP 55.13330.2016 establish the minimum operating productivity. In the bedroom and living room, oxygen must be completely renewed every hour, in the kitchen an hourly influx of 60 m3 is required, in the bathroom and non-residential rooms - from 25 m3 per hour. When the fans are turned off or in the absence of people, a multiplicity of 20% of the room volume per hour is allowed.

How to properly make a hood in a private house

There are two types of ventilation systems:

natural - circulation occurs due to the pressure difference at the bottom of the air duct and at the top;
forced - the flow is driven by rotating blades.

For garden buildings

The first option is ineffective and is used for small buildings intended for living in the warm season. In this case, the inflow is carried out thanks to wall or window valves, as well as flow grilles installed on the doors. The traditional solution is with a chimney. If it is not there, you can run a pipe from the ceiling to the roof, placing it at the maximum distance from windows and doors so as not to release fresh oxygen outside. It is better to make a canopy for it on the roof to prevent it from raining, and close it with a valve in the room in case the cold weather comes. The diameter can be taken up to 20 cm, but 5 cm will be enough.

The height should be at least 3 m - otherwise there will be no traction. According to SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10, the pipe should not protrude more than 1 m above the roof.

Instead of a pipe - plastic or metal - you can use a hose made of polyester or aluminum foil. It is not necessary to remove the upper part through. To ensure a pressure difference, it will be enough to make an exit under the roof slope, covering it with a mesh. The ventilation duct is embedded in the wall during its construction, or mounted next to it.

In order not to spoil the waterproofing of walls and ceilings, it is better to use special couplings that protect it from moisture penetration. They are easy to find in the store or make yourself.

It is better to place the shaft vertically. The more horizontal sections and bends, the lower the efficiency.

A rectangular elongated channel can be laid inside, but such a cross-section does not provide effective operation, unlike a round one. In addition, walls suitable for internal laying must have significant thickness.

For residential buildings

The most convenient way would be to install forced ventilation. It is suitable for all rooms and allows you to perfectly cope with the task. To get acquainted with its structure in detail, let's consider how it is used in large rooms with a heating system and a large number of rooms.

In a spacious living room there is no particular need to install a forced ventilation system. Its shortage becomes noticeable with an area of less than 10 m2 per person. The diameter of the channel does not play a significant role when it is turned on, but when it is turned off, the flow begins to circulate naturally, and here the throughput of the hose or pipe becomes important. To understand what the diameter of the channel should be, first ask to calculate the total consumption using the formula L=S x H x N, where

S is the area of the room;
H - ceiling height;
N - multiplicity.

Let's take as an example a bedroom of 18 m2. let it be equal to 3 m. As we already know, the air mass in living rooms is updated once an hour. Substituting the values into the formula, we get a volume of 54 m 3 /hour.
Now let's move on to calculating the channel area using the formula F=L/3600 x v, where V is the flow velocity. When the equipment is turned off, it is from 0.5 to 1.5 m/sec. Let's take its average value equal to 1 m/sec.

For, as for all living rooms, one channel is enough. So, the required value will be 0.015 m2. Now it will be easy to find out the diameter. We all learned this formula in school:
S=π⋅r2. The radius squared will be 0.015/3.14=0.004777, and the diameter will be 0.14 m.

Now all that remains is to select a suitable standard pipe. We are quite satisfied with a cross section of 0.15 m.

The above calculation must be carried out for each of the premises separately, taking into account their features, which we discussed above. An option is possible in which two have exits into one shaft. In this case, you will need to calculate the total air duct by adding their parameters.

According to sanitary and technical requirements, the inner walls of the channels must be smooth. The ventilation riser must be equipped with an opening hatch, allowing inspection and cleaning. When installing ventilation grilles not in the ceiling, but in the upper part of the wall, they should be positioned as high as possible to avoid “dead” zones at the very top. There should be no more than 15 cm to the ceiling.

If the building did not have a ventilation shaft, it does not have to be completely reconstructed to find its optimal position. The best solution would be to attach it to the side and insulate it well. The warm flow will rise much faster than the cold one.

In a private house, it is done in two ventilation ducts at once - one common, the other in the slab area. They should not be combined, since the flow from the second has significant pressure. It will seep into the kitchen from the common area.

The hood for an electric stove is placed at a height of 70 cm above the work surface, for a gas stove - at a height of 80 cm, depending on the power and size, taking into account the volume of the room. Power is calculated using the formula P = S x H x 12, where

S - room area
H is its height.

Usually the air duct is directed not upward, but to the side, which is why the power drops by 25%. These percentages must be taken into account when choosing equipment power.

It is better to install the outlet valve in the wall. It would be easier to install a window plug for it with a hole for exhaust gases to escape, but this solution will worsen the insolation and appearance of the facade. A hole can be made in masonry, concrete or wood using a diamond bit. Often, rectangular rather than round channels are used, which saves some space, but in this case the efficiency is reduced.

It is advisable to choose boxes made of metal, since they are easier to clean from grease and are less susceptible to deformation when exposed to high temperatures. The best option is steel. If corrugated aluminum is used, the pipe must be straightened as much as possible.

In a private house, a hood in the wall does not require approval, unless it is a historical object and is not under state protection.

Selecting forced ventilation

The simplest solution is to install a supply fan. It must be installed in a separate channel so that the flow under pressure does not escape into other rooms during its operation, but is discharged directly to the roof. For optimal operation, you will need inlet valves on doors, windows or walls - after all, to ensure outflow, you need inflow.

If the flow needs to be heated, you should give preference to an installation with a built-in heater or a recuperator. This device consists of thin metal plates that transmit temperature well. Warm air at the outlet enters every second gap between the plates, and fresh air moves towards it through the remaining channels, receiving heat from the walls.

In the attic you can place a central hood into which all the air ducts converge. They operate quite quietly, but it is advisable to place them away from the bedroom.

The attic space allows you to place more complex fixtures. Recently, energy-saving systems with rotary heat exchangers have become widespread. Such devices easily fit even under a flat roof - their height varies from 25 to 45 cm.

Material prepared by: Artem Filimonov

Ventilation and heating are systems responsible for creating a comfortable microclimate inside a living space. But property owners often think about ventilation only in extreme cases. This usually happens when it becomes difficult to stay in a living space, and your health and sleep deteriorate. Then people turn to specialists, who, at the first inspection of the building, indicate poor air exchange.

Why is ventilation needed in a private house?

The process of indoor air exchange is closely related to people’s life activities. Ventilation provides the sanitary and hygienic conditions necessary to keep a person in good shape, maintain his health and well-being. It also performs the following functions:

removes accumulated volumes of carbon dioxide and fills the room with oxygen;
maintains air purity by reducing the level of particles hazardous to human health;
removes unpleasant odors from the room - physiological secretions of the body, perfume aromas, the smell of cosmetics and household chemicals;
normalizes the overall humidity level in the room.

Constant high humidity is the main cause of the formation of mold and fungi, which are dangerous to human health, and also reduces the service life of electrical appliances and worsens the appearance of finishing materials and furniture.

The list of problems caused by lack of ventilation or its incorrect operation can be continued, but the above is enough to understand the importance of this system. Its type and installation methods are thought out at the design stage of a residential building. If for some reason a private house or cottage is not equipped with a ventilation system, we recommend starting to install it as soon as possible.

The ventilation system is thought out at the design stage of a residential building

Types of ventilation systems

In a private house, the following types of systems are used (a set of air ducts and equipment for cleaning, heating, cooling, transportation, supply and replacement of air):

Types of forced ventilation systems

According to the method of air exchange, forced ventilation is divided into two types:

Local (a set of air ducts that provide a flow of fresh air to a specific place). Delivery of clean air and removal of contaminated air occurs only in the room where the channel is installed.
General exchange (allows you to create the same conditions in all rooms of a residential building due to a system of combined air ducts connected to each room).

According to purpose, it is classified into the following types:

supply air - used to supply a volume of air that can be heated or cooled to a certain temperature;
exhaust - used to remove contaminated air, combustion products, steam;
- provides simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the apartment ensures the simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air

Design and arrangement of supply ventilation

According to the design method, the supply system can be:

duct (air is delivered to the room through pipes and metal ducts);
ductless (compact equipment in the form of a valve that is mounted in a hole in the wall).

Set-up and monoblock systems

Duct supply ventilation includes structures of the stacked type (consists of separate equipment that is mounted along the path of the duct) and monoblock type (the parts are placed in a closed housing protected by sound-proofing material).

Stacked supply ventilation consists of various equipment that is attached along the path of the channel

The typesetting installation is usually installed under a suspended ceiling, in the attic or in a special space reserved for laying communications. It allows you to purify the air in rooms of any type and size. The only drawback is the complexity of its design and large dimensions. Supply ventilation of the stacked type consists of the following elements:

Air grille. It is mounted on the outside of the building and is necessary to take in fresh air and protect the channel from large debris.
The air grille protects the channel from foreign objects
An air valve is a device that controls the volume of air taken in. Prevents the entry of cold air when heating equipment is turned off. According to the method of operation, the valves are divided into mechanical (spring) and automatic with an electric drive (more efficient and reliable, as they are guaranteed to shut off the air supply after the heater is turned off).
An automatic air valve is more reliable than a spring valve
The filter protects equipment and ventilated rooms from particles of small debris, dust, bird and animal fluff. According to the degree of purification, they are divided into coarse filters (retains particles larger than 10 microns), fine filters (up to 1 micron) and extra fine filters (up to 0.1 microns).
Fine filter traps particles up to 1 micron in size
Heater - electric or water air heater. It is mounted in the ventilation duct and serves to heat cold air to the desired temperature. The electric type is used in low-power systems, and the water type is used in the ventilation of a country house, office or other large premises.
The water heater is used in systems for supply ventilation in large areas
The evaporator serves to cool the supply air. Typically used in a combination system. Based on the type of coolant, a distinction is made between freon and water units.
The fan is the main element of the system, ensuring a uniform supply of fresh air in the required volume. It is selected taking into account air exchange standards, system power and pressure.
The noise suppressor prevents the spread of noise through the ventilation duct from the operation of the fan and other equipment.
To prevent noise from spreading through the ventilation duct, a silencer is added to the system.
An air duct is an element of an air network (channel) used to transport air. It is selected taking into account the cross-sectional area, shape and rigidity of the element.
Distribution devices are used to manually adjust air flow volumes. They are mounted at the outlet of the air duct on the room side and represent a grille or diffuser.
The diffuser is mounted on the room side at the outlet of the air duct
Automation system - ventilation system control device. Consists of a fan speed regulator, temperature control unit, thermostat, hydrostat, etc.

The monoblock installation produces less noise, which makes it possible to install it indoors. All its components are selected and tested at the assembly stage. This eliminates the possibility of power drawdowns and other problems during equipment operation.

This design is a supply valve, inside of which there is an air filter, an air heater and a fan. Its advantages are low cost, low power consumption, and ease of installation. Compact systems vary in performance, device complexity, design and size.

Compact supply ventilation system designed for small areas

There are installations with the ability to connect them to a centralized ventilation system. The following types can be roughly distinguished:

ventilator - an air supply unit without automatic adjustment of temperature and power, the room is ventilated only in the mode selected by the user;
aerogiver - a ventilator with the ability to automatically maintain temperature conditions;
Breezer is a compact device in the form of a wall unit that adapts to changes in the external environment, which is equipped with a step-by-step air purification system and has a digital panel and remote control.

Video: organizing supply and exhaust ventilation in a wooden house

The principle of operation of supply ventilation

Air exchange in the supply ventilation system occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This is a natural process that occurs without the participation of additional equipment. The scheme has both positive and negative aspects. If a residential building is located near a highway or an industrial enterprise, then the air taken from outside will have a pronounced odor and contain a lot of harmful particles. To solve the problem in private buildings, it is recommended to use duct-type forced ventilation. In this case, air will be taken from the street using special equipment.

Supply ventilation with air heating

The principle of operation of the system with an air heater is similar to the scheme described above. Air from outside the room enters the ventilation duct due to natural draft or a fan, undergoes cleaning and enters the heater. Depending on the coolant used, there are two types of air heaters:

water - consists of heat-transfer tubes and bimetallic grilles, connected to the central water supply or heating equipment through a mixing unit;
electric - the heating element is a heating element, the maximum temperature of the heated air is no more than 50 °C with an air flow of up to 1.5 m/s.

An electric heater is recommended for use in apartments and private housing with an area of no more than 100 m2. In larger houses, it is more economically feasible to install a water heater, since it will work in conjunction with underfloor heating and central heating.

Supply and exhaust ventilation with a water heater is designed for rooms up to 100 m²

Air heating with forced ventilation

Air heating through ventilation with a heater is one of the modern methods of heating a home. Its peculiarity is that heating, ventilation and air conditioning are connected into a single system. In the cold season, the air is heated in the air duct system, and in the summer it is cooled there to a comfortable temperature. This is a universal and economically feasible approach for small and medium-sized houses.

If a residential building does not have a heated floor or central heating system, an air heating system, coupled with one of the listed options, will allow you to heat the house without special financial costs.

Modern supply ventilation systems are equipped with automation that allows you to regulate air heating to the desired temperature. For example, if residents are away from home for a long time, then the operation of the equipment can be switched to an economical mode. This will allow you to heat the room to 10–12 °C, and after returning to full operation, quickly warm the house to a comfortable temperature of 18–20 °C.

Disadvantages of fresh air ventilation systems

The disadvantages of supply ventilation include:

energy consumption, which entails financial costs;
high noise level;
cost - the price of equipment and installation of ventilation directly depends on its type, design and total power of the system.

It is unlikely that you can install stacked ventilation with a large amount of equipment yourself. Installation is carried out by specially trained personnel. Otherwise, the manufacturer (official dealer) may refuse warranty obligations.

The supply ventilation system has a high noise level

Design and calculation of a supply ventilation system

Before purchasing equipment and components for installing ventilation, their technical parameters are calculated taking into account the size of the room - air capacity, size of the air duct cross-section. At the last stage, the appropriate equipment is selected: fan, heater, etc.

Air performance

Air performance is measured in m³/h and means how much air will pass through the room per unit of time. The calculation is carried out only for premises where residents will be for more than two hours a day. These rooms include the bedroom, children's room and living room.

For corridors, kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, calculations are not carried out. In these rooms, polluted air is removed through exhaust valves.

This value is regulated by SNiP number 41–01–2003: for one person in rooms without natural ventilation, an air flow of at least 60 m³/h must be established. The circulation of incoming air occurs due to single or double air exchange. This term means that within one hour in a ventilated room the air mass will be completely replaced. Taking into account productivity and air exchange, air flow is calculated:

by the number of residents: L1 = N * LN, where L1 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, N is the number of residents, LN is the normalized air flow;
by multiplicity: L2 = n * V, where L2 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, n is the air multiplicity, V is the volume of the room.

For example, for a living room with an area of 10 m2 and a height of 2.3 m for one person, L1 = 60 m³/h, L2 = 46 m³/h and a ventilation capacity of 60 m³/h is required.

When calculating supply ventilation, first determine the air performance of the system

Duct size

After determining the optimal ventilation power, we proceed to the calculation of the distribution channel system, consisting of air ducts, splitters, and valves. At the design stage, you will need to draw up a diagram of the route of the air ducts. It is optimal if several options are compiled. Based on these drawings, the best solution is selected that allows the required volume of air to be supplied to a specific room with a minimum length of the ventilation duct.

The cross-section of the air duct is calculated using the formulas:

calculated area: S1 = K * 2.778 / V, where K is the air flow through the air ducts in m³/h, V is the air flow speed in m/s, 2.778 is a constant coefficient;
actual area for round air ducts: S2 = π * D 2 / 400, where π - 3.14, D is the diameter of the air duct;
actual area for square ducts: S3 = L * H / 100, where L and H are the width and height of the duct, respectively.

For air ducts of standard size, you can use a table with already calculated parameters.

Table: air flow for round and rectangular ducts

Duct parameters			Air flow in m 3 /h at air speed
Diameter of round air duct, mm	Dimensions of rectangular duct, mm	Air duct cross-sectional area, cm 2	2 m/s	3 m/s	4 m/s	5 m/s	6 m/s
	80x90	72	52	78	104	130	156
100	63x125	79	57	85	113	142	170
	63x140	88	63	95	127	159	190
110	90x100	90	65	97	130	162	194
	80x140	112	81	121	161	202	242
125	100x125	125	90	135	180	225	270
	100x140	140	101	151	202	252	302
140	125x125	156	112	169	225	281	337
	90x200	180	130	194	281	324	389
160	100x200	200	144	216	324	360	432
	90x250	225	162	243	360	405	486
180	160x160	256	184	276	369	461	553
	90x315	283	204	306	408	510	612
200	100x315	315	227	340	454	567	680
	100x355	355	256	383	511	639	767
225	160x250	400	288	432	576	720	864
	125x355	443	319	479	639	799	958
250	125x400	500	360	639	720	900	1080
	200x315	630	454	680	907	1134	1361
300	200x355	710	511	767	1022	1278	1533
	160x450	720	518	778	1037	1296	1555
315	250x315	787	567	850	1134	1417	1701
	250x355	887	639	958	1278	1597	1917
350	200x500	1000	720	1080	1440	1800	2160
	250x450	1125	810	1215	1620	2025	2430
400	250x500	1250	900	1350	1800	2250	2700

Air heater power

To calculate power, you need to know the minimum air temperature outside the building in winter and the required air temperature at the outlet of the ventilation duct. Nominally, the comfortable outlet temperature is taken to be 18 °C. The minimum temperature is selected taking into account the region. The heater power is calculated using the formula:

P = T * L * 0.336 / 1000, where T is the temperature difference at the entrance to the ventilation duct and the outlet from the heater, L is the power of the ventilation system in m³/h, 0.336 is the heat capacity of the air without taking into account its humidity and temperature;
Taking into account the data from the example above: P = 44 * 120 * 0.336 / 1000, to supply warm air at a temperature of 18 °C to a living room with an area of 10 m2, ventilation with an air heater with a capacity of about 1.8 kW will be required.

If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment, since water from central/autonomous heating will be used for heating, which will reduce the cost of maintaining the system as a whole.

If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment

Do-it-yourself installation of a fresh air ventilation system

The technology for installing supply ventilation depends on its power and design. Installation is best carried out at the stage of interior finishing of the building, since ventilation will consist of a system of ducts and equipment that are located under the ceiling or in the attic. For apartments and small houses, compact supply ventilation in the form of a recuperator ventilator is ideal. The unit operates in supply and exhaust mode, and its installation can be done independently using a simple tool.

A supply ventilator for private housing can be installed independently

For installation work, you will need to prepare a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a screwdriver, a household vacuum cleaner and scissors. Installation technology:

Before starting installation, select the location where the ventilator will be installed. It is recommended to install the device at the top or bottom of the wall.
The supply ventilator is installed at the top or bottom of the wall
In the selected location, make a hole in the wall using a hammer drill. In this case, an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm is used, so the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm.
If the installation of the ventilator is carried out at the rough finishing stage, it is more advisable to make hidden wiring. To power the device, a power cable with a core thickness of 1–1.5 mm is sufficient.
Insert a plastic air duct into the hole made in the wall and adjust it in length so that the pipe protrudes 1–3 mm from the outside of the room.
For an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm, the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm
After trimming, insert the air duct into the channel. From the street side, attach the casing from the protective cap to the façade of the building. To do this, drill four holes and hammer in the nails included in the delivery kit.
Installation of the protective cap on the facade of the building is carried out with a protrusion of 1–3 mm
From the side of the room, attach a cardboard template to the hole and make markings for mounting the indoor unit.
Before attaching the unit, fill the space between the air duct and the channel with foam. After hardening, cut off the excess with a sharp knife flush with the wall.
To attach the unit, remove the front panel, which is secured with latches on the sides of the device, and the left protective cover by unscrewing two self-tapping screws.
After this, you can proceed to installing the rear part of the indoor unit: run the power cable if hidden wiring was previously done. For open wiring, a special plug is provided at the bottom of the unit.
Place the back of the block against the wall according to the pre-applied markings and screw it onto four self-tapping screws. Then connect the cable to the terminals according to the diagram in the instructions. Attach the protective cover to its original place.
Install the cartridge into the air duct. To connect it to the board, connect the connector to the contacts on the right side of the block. After this, install the front part of the indoor unit.
After connecting the ventilator cartridge, a protective cover is installed in the air duct
Install the sound insulator from the street side: twist the material into a roll along the diameter of the air duct and insert it into the ventilation duct until it stops, and cut off the protruding part taking into account the edge of the duct and install the adjusted sound insulator back into the air duct.
Secure the outer ventilation hood and fine-tune the device. To do this, remove the rubber plug that hides the two-position switches. Perform the settings according to the decoding sticker located to the left of the switches.
Installing the outer hood and fine-tuning the ventilator is the final stage of installation

After configuration, the indoor unit is closed and the system’s functionality is checked.

Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing

System Maintenance

Maintenance of supply ventilation is carried out at least twice a year:

in the fall (before the first frost);
in spring (after the average daily temperature is 3–5 °C).

During this, a complete diagnosis of the system’s performance is carried out - an external inspection of the equipment, checking the voltage at the electrical connection nodes and cleaning the filtration system. The cost of servicing fresh air ventilation for a private home depends on its power. On average, one service costs no more than 4 thousand rubles.

Modern ventilation systems designed for use in the private sector create comfortable living conditions. Before purchasing and installing equipment, consult with specialists. This will help not only save your own money, but also less frequently maintain the system during its operation.

A properly built ventilation system for a private home is a process not driven by a whim or desire to comply with the norms and trends of modern housing, but a procedure that is extremely necessary to maintain climate balance. Complexity plays a special role here: it is not enough to arrange ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom (as many do). Every room in the house needs ventilation.

Insufficient air circulation between indoors and outdoors can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.

The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of constructing the system, while forced ventilation can boast of more efficient and high-quality work.

Along with a number of undeniable advantages - low cost, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction experts talk about the ineffectiveness of such a system and here’s why:

According to building codes, the permissible temperature outside should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some data, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous point: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until air circulation completely stops.
There is no way to treat the air coming from the street. The environmental situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than an ordinary thing. Untreated and unpurified air can cause many problems.
Ventilation in the room has limited adjustment. While it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.

Air conditioning is mandatory

To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).

Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace?

If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as a decorative element, but performs its direct duties - heating the room, you need to take care of natural ventilation in double. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizer (in this case oxygen) is necessary. If there is a shortage of fuel, the fuel will not burn completely, releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living space. Naturally, there is little pleasant or useful in this.

Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace

If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, such a trick is unlikely to work, so even at the construction stage it is advisable to install a pipe under the floor directly to the fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.

To organize a hood, they most often resort to the services of experts; this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will consider the main recommendations for constructing such ventilation, common problems and disadvantages.

How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands

Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air indoors and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) as well as pressure differences. Based on this, we came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future home, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross-section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it into the rooms of the house.

Diagram and design of a system with a ventilation duct

Ventilation system design

Correct installation

Ventilation duct in the wall

To organize wiring they use. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is under pressure and is drawn out due to traction force, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).

Placement of supply ducts in the wall

The thickness of the walls of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will flow into the rooms.
The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.

Bringing the system to the street

The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard manner. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either by making flow channels in the window sills, or by making gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the house to the required extent.

Fresh air is essential

If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), you need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.

Natural ventilation does not require additional equipment (at least, you can do without it). This means that there will be no extraneous noise in the house from operating fans and radiators.

Many people, when installing air purifying filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances, making it even more polluted. There is no need to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles coming into the house from the street along with the air settle on the windowsills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.

Video: how to arrange a natural hood

Don't forget about the air conditioning system. A properly organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.