Crafts from computer mouse do it yourself. What can be made from a computer mouse. Move using the right mouse button

What can be done with the old mouse? And got the best answer

The answer from the user is removed [Guru]
Only the lamp is better to make LED, since the incandescent lamps are very hot, and the plastic mouse will certainly melt.
P.S. Very good LEDs can be taken from lighters with lanterns. Lighters withstand only 2-3 refills, and the LED is almost eternal.
Source: We do not throw anything, do not sell and try not to buy. But we give and select, we decide and do yourself!

Answer from Yashpa.[guru]
take a three-liter jar, mound sawders, cut the apple, carrot and put your mouse there - let him live further

Answer from Dimon XXX.[expert]
You can make an interesting desk lamp: at the place of fixing the wires to attach a stand (you can finished from an unnecessary lamp), instead of a ball - a light bulb. The switch can be made from the fillings of the mouse itself by pressing the button. You can make a change in the lamp of the lamp by a scroller and much more.
In this business, it all depends on the fantasy and knowledge of electrical equipment.

Answer from Linza.[guru]
You look what kind of company it is. Go to the site to them and offer them to buy rarity from you! Will be money!?

Answer from Nikolay Davydov[guru]
wall on the wall (Razuison. Prikuli Besser Glass - Give the will of Fantasy)

Answer from Deathwatch[active]
leave the length .... I have a kada rod mouse, I will get out the old good ball mouse and go ahead ....

Answer from SHP! ON.[guru]
draw a marker, cut the wire in shorter and you can put on the shelf
and you will be happy!

Answer from Papacity[guru]
throw and buy a new one where is your logic?

Answer from Owl.[guru]
Blimey! Raritet is real. Since 1999, since 1999, I have died so much mice with my death, and here - the long-life right. It is necessary to find a worthy use of such a veteran.

Answer from ABOVE ME[master]
Disassemble to find out what's inside, I already disassembled 3 pieces

Answer from Mesyanka[guru]
Do not throw away! She can still experience three new things!

Answer from Neohuman.[guru]
You can, for example, paint in a folk or other style - make an exclusive.
Can be covered with varnish so that the paint is not erased (so do it)

Answer from Mark Slavin.[active]
give her old cat

Answer from User deleted[active]
Throw out !!

Answer from User deleted[guru]
reagrey her cat

Answer from Elena Starky.[guru]
Hang in the refrigerator 🙂 and show guests "My mouse hanged" 🙂
I have long been dreaming to do so, all the hands do not reach 🙂

Answer from 2 response[guru]

Received the name Mousebot, and his main highlight is that it is a way to see the light and then turns to it. All this thanks to two LEDs that capture the light.

Materials and tools for manufacture:
- one ball mouse;
- Two little motors;
- one toggle switch;
- microcircuit LM386;
- one DPDT 5V relay (you can also use AROMAT DS2ye-S-DC5V);
- transistor PN2222 NPN (and 2N3904 is suitable);
- one LED LED (color does not matter);
- transistor for 1 com;
- resistor at 10 com;
- capacitor per 100 mf;
- magneto cassette;
- diskette or CD disc;
- Battery for 9V with equipping;
- Rubber stripes and wires.

From the tools you will need: multimeter, cross screwdriver, pliers, drill, knife, soldering iron, plumbing, glue or epoxy, hot glue with gun and hacksaw.

Manufacturing process:

Step one. Disassemble the mouse and take out some details
After breaking the mouse, you need to remove the switch, as well as the infrared emitter, they will be needed for the manufacture of a robot. IR emitters and switch must be disappeared. The emitter is marked on the pictures with numbers 1 and 2, the switch is indicated by the number 3.

Step second. Preparation of the robot hull

To get as much space as possible in the robot case, you need to cut all extra protrusions from the inside of the mouse. The easiest way to do this with the help of a drenel. If the mouse is small, then maybe you will have to remove those projections in which the connecting screws are screwed. For cutting, the short cylindrical style is well suited. Being in a vertical position, it will cut at right angles with good quality.

Step Three. Making Robot Wheels
Since the axis of the engines is very small, to move the robot they need to be equipped with wheels. It is not better for these purposes, rollers from cassettes, former tape recorders, are suitable. Wheels are fixed to the axes with a superclone. Then the strip of rubber is taken and turns around the wheel, everything you need to do three turns, and the glue should be added to each half. Now the second one is glued on top of the already glued gum, it must be installed as in the photo.

Step fourth. Creating a layout and relay installation
It is best to apply a standard layout, while the mouse circuit will be simple, since the printed circuit board takes little space. It is necessary to install the relay and solder wires, contacts from 8 to 11 and from 6 to 9 are crossped with connecting pins. Next, you need to connect Contacts 1 and 8 and add a multicore wire for contacts 8 and 9.
Then you need to take the transistor and solder the 16th contact to its collector. Subsequently connected wires sold to contact 9.

After that, the relay can be glued to the housing. From the wire that connects the 9th contact with the contact of the emitter, you need to solder to the power wires. Contact 8 connects with a positive pole.

contacts 1, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 16;

1 - Emitter; 2 - collector; 3 - Basic

Pitch fifth. Install the switch button
Now you need to take the switch and connect it as indicated on the diagram. The resistor used has a denomination of 10 com. So that no closures occur, the contacts are best to isolate with a shrink tube.

Step six. Connecting the brain robot.
The LM386 chip is used as a brain for the robot. It must be turned up and then bend the contacts 1 and 8 so that they come into contact, then need to be soldered. The microcircuit is then installed in the housing and connects. To contacts 2, 3 and 5 you need to add a multicore wire. And contacts 4 and 6 are connected to a plus. As a result, everything should look like shown in the photos.

Step seventh. Create an upper part of the robot
You need to take a drill and drill holes at the top of the mouse housing. Two holes are needed to connect the eye, and one to install the LED LED. In the back of the mouse, you need to make a large hole for the toggle switch. At the same stage, the switch can be installed.

To create eye stalks, you need to twist the copper wire, and then on their ends one contact is soldered by IR emitters. In the central hole, you can now install the LED, and a resistor per 1 com is sold to its positive contact.

Step eighth. Fixing elements
So that the engines and switches are securely, they must be fixed using hot glue or epoxy resin.

Nowadays, Hand Maid is firmly entered the fashion, that is, the things made by their own hands. To this definition, you can consider any items that you have read or converted it yourself. Such a thing can become a technique, for example, a computer mouse. And in our article we will try to figure out how from a wireless mouse to make wired with your own hands. The instructions given further will help you decide whether this action needs or easier will replace the mouse in the store.

What is the difference between a wireless mouse from wired?

Many people might think that the difference between one of the named devices from another is that the wired mouse has a wire when the wireless is powered by batteries or batteries.

In general, it is, but if you have a slightly to delve into the question, you can find many other important differences:

• First, this is a difference in dimensions. Wired mouses are always a little longer in size, as their equipment is somewhat more complicated. This also applies to weight, although that the one else weigh is slightly.
• Secondly, wired mouses are much better and quickly responding to a response than wireless. That is why gamers and computer users often choose them, second-hand braking for which can be a huge interference. Yes, wireless mice work in the same way as wired at the beginning of operation, but as the battery or battery is discharged, characteristic pate and braking appear, can begin to interfere with the breakdown control.
• The third difference follows from the first. The life of the average wired mouse is 10 years, while wireless - only 3.4 years. This is a significant difference, and if you calculate a little, then even the difference in the cost does not cover the costs.

Advantage of wired mouse

Carefully examining all the characteristics of the wired mouse, you can highlight a number of advantages that stimulate users to such a difficult alteration. The benefits of this device can be attributed to:

• price;
• durability of use;
• reaction rate to user commands;
• universality.

As you can see, the main advantages of the wired mouse before the wireless will be the price and durability in use. The mouse feeding from the computer is even smaller than the wireless of the same class. And for the remote control will have to spend money also to purchase power sources. In addition, taking into account that this mouse is twice as fast in the scourge, we can conclude that a much cheaper option is a wired mouse.

Not once, users faced such a problem that the mouse driver is not suitable for a home PC or laptop. The wired mouse does not require the installation of special drivers. To start it to use, it is enough just to connect it into a USB output and start working.

How to make a wired wireless mouse?

So, we figured out the details that the wireless mouse in many indicators is inferior to its wired analogue. Is it worth running to the store for a new mouse in return for old? Do not hurry to gather. Now we will try to decompose information about whether it is possible to make a wired from the wireless mouse.

From theoretical point of view, it is quite possible. With the practical, this process will be somewhat difficult for an ordinary consumer, not dismantling in physics and mechanics. But we will try to explain as much as possible algorithm of actions.

We understand how to make a wireless mouse

The instruction that we will provide will give the process of alteration in the form of the necessary steps:

1. So, let's start with the fact that we will analyze directly the wireless mouse. To do this, unscrew two screws with a screwdriver and remove the cover.
2. Next, we separate the motherboard from the bottom of the mouse, before this disappearing two wiring - red (+) and black (-) - from the batteries.
3. Now we need to have a resistor to reduce the voltage from 5 volts to 3. How to do it? It will not be possible to explain this in a simple language, but if you speak briefly, you need to consistently attach 2-3 diodes in direct inclusion.
4. Drill the hole in the lid to bring wire in the future. It is necessary to do it carefully so that the crack does not appear in the device housing.
5. Place the modified voltage board into the case and shove the resulting wire into the drilled hole.
6. Connect the ends of the wire to USB.

The device can already be used, but similar frauds will only replace the power supply in the mouse. It will also be controlled by "by air" using a USB connection to a computer or laptop, since the signal transmission circuit has a wireless and wired mouse all the same.

We quite described in detail how to make wired wireless mouse, but you could have questions about the practicality of this alteration.

Is it worth doing wired from the wired mouse?

It is unlikely that this question can be answered as ambiguous - no, it is not worth it. If you have skilled hands, you can make something with them and do it only from scientific interest, then personal enthusiasm can lead to good results. However, if you are an Internet self-taught and do it only because it is a pity money for the purchase of a new mouse, then you should not be taken for this is a glible case, because in the end you will lose more than you get.

The price of the question - three hundred rubles, it's quite a bit, given that when collecting the mouse, you will spend many nerves and, perhaps, still a whole wireless mouse. In addition, this alteration will last long. The homemade cord will be raised much earlier than purchased, and the design itself will break through and will be impractical.

Conclusion

If you have read the start of the article, caught that the wired mouse is suitable for quite serious gamers, and decided to solder it quickly, then you are wrong. The converted mouse to play will be even more difficult than simple wireless. The cord on the homemade device will turn out to be more nervy, and the response only because of the presence of the wire will not be faster.

Thus, we can conclude that from the wireless mouse as theoretically, it is practically possible to make a wired, but it will be a little sense from it, since the pluses of the real wired mouse will not receive. It is much easier and more practical to go to the nearest store and purchase a mouse for 300-500 rubles.

To solve one of the tasks, I needed to programmatically receive and process images of a small section of the paper surface from a very close distance. Without receiving decent quality when using a conventional USB camera and already on the floor of the store for the electronic microscope, I remembered one of the lectures on which we were told how different devices are arranged, including a computer mouse.

Preparation and a little theory

I will not go into the details of the principle of operation of modern optical mouse, it is written in very detailed (I recommend reading for general development).

Googling information on this topic and breaking the old PS / 2 mouse Logitech, I saw a picture of the picture from the Internet.

Not a very difficult scheme of the "first generation mice", the optical sensor in the center and the PS / 2 interface chip is slightly higher. The optical sensor that came across me is an analogue of "popular" models ADNS2610 / ADNS2620 / PAN3101. I think they and their counterparts were massively produced at the same Chinese factory, receiving different labeling at the exit. The documentation on it was found very easily, even together with various examples of the code.

The documentation states that this sensor up to 1500 times per second receives an image of the surface of 18x18 points (400CPI resolution), remembers it and using the image comparison algorithms calculates the coordinates of the coordinates x and y, relative to the previous position.

Sales

For "Sensor Communication", I used the ARDUINO popular computing platform, and decided to fall straight to the chip legs.

We connect 5V and GND to the corresponding Arduino outputs, and the legs of the SDIO and SCLK sensor to digital pins 8 and 9.

To obtain a displacement by coordinates, you need to read the value of the chip register at 0x02 (x) and 0x03 (y), and for the picture dump, you need to first record the value of 0x2a at 0x08, and then 18x18 times read it from there. This will be the last "memorized" value of the brightness matrix of the image from an optical sensor.

As I implemented it on Arduino, you can see here: http://pastebin.com/yprgbzas (total ~ 100 lines of code).

And to obtain and display the picture, a program on Processing was written.

Result

After a small "finishing" program for your project, I was able to get a picture directly from the optical sensor and make all the necessary calculations over it.

You can notice the surface texture (paper) and even individual letters on it. It should be noted that such a clear picture quality is obtained due to the fact that the developers of this mouse model added a special glass stand with a small lens directly under the sensor.

If you start raising a mouse over the surface even a couple of millimeters, the clarity immediately disappears.

If you suddenly want to repeat it at home, to find a mouse with a similar sensor I recommend looking for old devices with the PS / 2 interface.

Conclusion

Although the resulting image and not very much, it was quite enough to solve my task (barcode scanner). It turned out very economically and quickly (mouse for ~ 100r + Arduino + a couple of days to write code).

Let me leave links to the materials that I was very useful for solving this task. It was really not difficult and was done with great pleasure. Now I am looking for information about chips of more expensive models of modern mice to get high-quality images with great resolution. It may even be possible to assemble something like a microscope (the quality of the images from the current sensor is clearly not suitable for this). Thanks for attention!

This very simple robot can be made from inexpensive materials that can be bought in a regular store. The basis of this device is the old computer mouse.
Mousebot is a simple bot that uses two "eyes" with which he sees the light and turns to it. One big "mustache" is mounted on the front of the computer mouse to detect collisions. When a mouse is collided with a mouse moving back and turns to the other side.

This project is rather cheap if you have an old mouse in stock, the remaining details will cost you less than ten dollars.

Step 1. Details and tools:

Materials:

• 1 ball mouse
• 2 small DC engines
• 1 Tumbler
• 1 DPDT 5V relay (AROMAT DS2ye-S-DC5V is also suitable)
• 1 LM386 microcircuit
• 1 2N3904 or PN2222 NPN transistor
• 1 LED LED (any color)
• 1 1 com resistor
• 1 10 com resistor
• 1 100mf condenser
• 1 cassette for tape recorders (were distributed in 80-90 yg)
• 1 CD or diskette
• 1 9V Rechargeable Equipment
• 1 9V Battery.
• 2 or 3 Wide Rubber Strips
• 22 or 24 wires.

Instruments:

• Multimeter
• crosshead screwdriver
• Dremel
• Small pliers
• Kusachachi
• Acute knife
• Soldering iron
• Any dismantling tool
• Superchalter or epoxy resin
• Hot glue and gun for him
• Hacksaw.

Step 2. Pull out some details from the mouse:

Mousebot requires a housing with some details from a computer mouse, as well as additionally eyes and mustache.

Open the mouse and find the components you want to take, namely the switch and infrared emitter.

Remove the PCB switch and swell it as IR emitters.

1 - IR emitter; 2 - IR emitter; 3 - instant switch;

1 - Cross screwdriver will make this task easier

Step 3. Prepare the case:

Next, it is necessary to provide a lot of space inside the case, so it is necessary to remove all internal plastic structures from the top and bottom of the mouse using a drenel. If your mouse is small, you may have to remove connecting screws that hold two parts of the mouse together.

Now with a drenel, reduce the holes for the switch in the front of the mouse and the engines on the sides.

It is better to use a short cylindrical style drenel, it will cut a high-quality at right angle, being in a vertical position.

1 - if this connecting screw interferes, remove it

Step 4. Make Wheels:

The axes on these engines are very small, and if we want Mousebot to move steadily at high speed, we must make him a few wheels. Tape recorder cassettes have the perfect size wheels in the right and left corners. You may have to send a lot of cassettes to find the wheel suitable for your axes. Stick them superclosure to the axes.

Cut the gum and stick it to the edges, wrapping it around the wheel three times, adding superciles to each semi-turn to keep the design together. Rubber residues cut.

Now glue another gum to the one you just completed. Perform all the same thing and cut down too much. Make sure the glue is enough to keep the gum reliably. Repeat this process for another wheel.

1 - add one more layer to soften the touch of the wheels;

1 - gum fixed

Step 5. Make a layout and install the relay:

There are a lot of good layouts for Mousebot. The best use standard layout. The mouse circuit will be simple, since the printed circuit board does not require much space.
Install the relay and solder the wires, crossing them with connecting pins from 8 to 11 and from 6 to 9.

Then connect the contacts 1 and 8 with the wire along the case and add a stranded wire for wires 8 and 9.

Solder the collector of the transistor (right output, looking with a flat side) to contact 16 and attach a short end. Then plug the wires that are soldered to the contact 9 (left output, looking with a flat side), leaving a little freedom.

Now glue the relay to the case. Here you can use cropped wiring as a positive and negative voltage poles that will allow you to get rid of the engine troubleshooting. Use a sharp knife to remove the protection from the contact wire connecting 9 contact and emitter, and solder it to the wiring for power. Then connect the contact 8 with a positive voltage pole.

1 - This mouse does not have enough space in the rear, so install the engine in front for more free operation;

contacts 1, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 16;

1 - Emitter; 2 - collector; 3 - Basic

1 - Do not pay attention to this blue wire, it will not be useful for you; 2 is similar to the clumsy connection, but it frees you from additional wires;

Step 6. Set the Switch:

Now add Mousebot mustache. Make it using the solder of the positive output of the condenser and the resistor 10 com to the end, which is usually open. You can check which side is an open part of the push-button switch using the multimeter continuity function. There should be no connection between the average and normally open contact until the button is pressed. After that, add the stranded wire to ground the capacitor and the central contact of the switch.

Connect the resistor on the switch to the base (central contact) of the transistor and the wires from the outer side of the condenser. Then connect the average contact to the positive voltage pole. In order for your connections to be more secure, you need to use heat shrink tubes to insulate connections and bend the capacitor to the side to release a bit of space.

1 - resistor 10 com; 2 - usually open contact; 3 - usually closed contact;

1 is connected to the guide end

Step 7. Build a brain for Mousebot:

The brain for MouseBots is a LM386 chip. Turn over it with contacts up and bend contacts 1 and 8, so that they touch and solder.

Now place 386 in the case and connect the output 4 and contact 6 with the end + and add the stranded wire to contacts 2, 3 and 5.

We are almost ready to connect engines. There remains to solder some stranded wires to contacts 4 and 13 relays. At the moment, your Mousebot should look like on the third picture to this step.

1 - PIN1; 2 - PIN 8

Step 8. Build the upper half of Mousebot:

First, drill small holes in front of the mouse, two for eyes and one for the LED (LED). Then drill a large hole for a toggle on the back of the mouse and set the switch to work on / off function in the tail of the robot.

To create eye stalks for a robot, twist two pieces of wire together and solder an IR emitter at one end. Install the LED in the middle of the hole and connect the positive end to the 1 com resistor.

1 - resistor 1 com; 2 - GND End of the LED;

Step 9. Sharpen the bottom items:

Use hot glue or epoxy resin to securely secure the switch and engines to the mouse chassis. Make sure the angle of the engine is approximately straight, and then lift the front of the mouse slightly from the ground.

Step 10. Near the finish:

Connect contact 13 relays to the left engine and contact 4 relays to the right engine. Now connect the output 5 of the integrated circuit to the lower connection and the engines. If you are not sure which side is +, and what -, connect the engine to the battery, and follow the direction of rotations. The right engine should spin clockwise, if you look at the wheel, and the left should rotate counterclockwise.

Find the wire coming from contact 2 (green) + to the end of the left side of the eye and from contact 3 (blue) + by the end of the right side of the eye. Then plug the 1B resistor to the voltage direction +.

Connect the battery, skip the black wire to the battery cover to the negative voltage pole. Connect the red wire to the battery cover to the switch, and then plug the switch to the voltage +.

Close the mouse cover, and then cut the thin strip from the rubber material using the hacksaw. Stick the strip on the one hand, so that it would be pressure when the buttons are pressed. If you have a strip, which "claps yourself on the back", then you did everything.

Now turn the switch and enjoy!