/ How to spend chimney through the ceiling?

How to spend chimney through the ceiling?

When installing the chimney, the most important thing is to ensure reliable fire protection. That is why the passage for chimney through the ceiling should be made in all the rules. Even special sandwich tubes, it is necessary to carefully insulate in places where they come into contact with the details of overlaps and roofs.

Basic rules for design design

Observing simple instructions, you can assemble a safe and normally functioning chimney. However, if you retreat from the instructions below, the design can not only become ineffective, and also dangerous in terms of fire.

• The overall height of the structure should not be less than 5 meters from the heat source to the tube's head board.
• The use of pipes of a smaller diameter is not allowed than the outlet of the stove nozzle.
• The height on which the pipe rises above the roof should exceed the height of the skate by 50 centimeters. If the chimney is located on the roof slope, then the distance above which it should rise half meter, is calculated based on the following scheme:

• If the device has a height above the base of more than one and a half meters, it must be strengthened with stretch marks.
• Connections of structural elements should not coincide with the passages through the roof or overlap.
• The length of horizontal or inclined sections of the chimney should not exceed one meter. It is necessary to exclude the clogging of pipes of the soot, as well as to ensure the best balance of the force of the traction and the KPD of the furnace.
• If the roof material is combustible, then it is necessary to equip the pipe by an ingroworr, made from the grid, with cells are not larger than 5 millimeters.

All these points are easy, and the efficiency and safety of the constructed device will comply with all the necessary standards and standards.

Organization of Passage

In most cases, a special sandwich tube is used for the chimney structures. It is a design of two pipes of different diameters embedded in one to another. Between them, a non-combustible heat insulating material is laid. The outer shell is made of fine metal, and the inner part is from thicker steel.

The passage through the ceiling of such a chimney sandwich is carried out in the same way as an ordinary pipe. Is that the work on the arrangement of the passage node will be slightly smaller. You can use both the finished solution already made in the factory and yourself to assemble the necessary knot.

In any case, it is necessary to pre-prepare a place where the installation of the entire device will be installed. In the ceiling, the square hole is cut, with a side of about 45 centimeters. This size is enough to spend the standard chimney through it.

The ceiling node itself for the passage must be postponed from the outside and inside the heat insulator capable of withstanding high temperatures. Special basalt wool is most popular for such purposes.

In the size of the square part of the node, approximate lines are applied on the ceiling. The opening should be strictly over the oven pipe. The hole itself is fixed slightly smaller than the connecting square plate. It is necessary to leave such a gap to have the opportunity to attach it to the overlap of self-draws. The finished opening is laid out by the same heat insulating material as a passage node.

In this hole you need to insert a ready knot to check all connections. Before removing the chimney through the ceiling and finally fasten it, you need to make sure the verticality of the position of the pipe and find it exactly in the center of the opening.

If you look from the side of the upper floor or the attic, then you can see that emptiness remained in the passage unit. They are filled with non-flammable heat insulator. You can use clayzit, clay or basalt wool residues. The main thing is to fill the emptiness very tight.

To have a more complete picture of how the entire assembly looks like and what the passage for chimney looks through the ceiling, you can look at the drawing further.

The diagram shows the main elements of the chimney and the passing unit, as well as the part of the overlap through which the passage was carried out. Through the roof, the pipe is carried out in a similar way. The only difference will be a hole in a square metal plate - it will not be round, but oval, because it will be placed under the tilt.

Independent manufacture of transitional node

Optionally buy a finished product, if there is a desire to do everything yourself. The design from this practically will not change. You must also cut the square hole in the overlap.

The next step is to prepare a plate of non-combustible material that will be attached from the inside of the room. It cuts out the hole of the circular shape equal to the external diameter of the pipe sandwich.

The inner surface of the carved opening is placed in the heat insulator and sewn with metal stripes. Through it, a sandwich tube is passed, with a prepared assembly plate on it. It must be reliably fixed in the opening of the struts from the material that will endure the heat and does not burn.

Between the mounting plate and the plane of the ceiling, the sheet heat insulator is often laid to exclude heating. It is not the most compulsory measure, but it will not be worse from such a precaution.

On the side of the upper room, the emptiness in the ceiling is filled with the heat insulator. As in the past case, it can be clayzit, clay or special basalt wool. Some use sand, but it is better not to do - he has thermal conductivity than even in the ceramzite, and the bulk structure will lead to the fact that sooner or later it will begin to be saturated.

Also on how to close the flow of the chimney on the ceiling can be read.

This material provides only general information on how to carry out a sandwich chimney through the ceiling. There are more complex designs in the technical plan. However, the general principles for ensuring fire safety and efficient operation of the chimney will not change.

The installation of chimney in the bath with sandwich is the most optimal version of the metal chimney. It is almost indispensable in weight and compact construction in terms of conditions where, in the initial plan, the smoke device in the home is missing.

It is not difficult to implement this idea on the installation. All you need is to bore the main parts and auxiliary elements in the desired sequence.

It also needs to take into account some nuances of this device. Without them, it is not possible to correctly perform a solid and hermetic design. And look such a structure like this:

Sandwich - structures formed from three layers received their name with the easy filing of the famous resident of England. Chimneys in the bath with this title are no exception.

The distinctive feature of these pipes is that the insulating layer is located between the metal circuit in the middle and the same circuit. It is usually performed from basalt materials.

Additional installation elements:

• tube equipped with revisions;
• brackets and other details:

This kit helps ensure the desired functioning of the smoke system.

Sandwich chimney in the bath is characterized by a number of advantages.

• The contour inside the tube sandwich is well tolerating the heating to a large temperature and the effect of condensate.
• Construction features create obstacles to the penetration of water to the insulation.
• The desired thrust limit is created, and the gases are discharged.

The contour inside of these materials, and this option is known, differs by high anti-corrosion properties. By setting the goal economy, the outline is often performed from not so persistent galvanized material.

Thus, the consumer becomes the problem of choosing a material: preferred for a long time serving stainless steel or an option that allows some degrees to save.

IMPORTANT! Material for sandwich pipe inside is selected, taking into account its capabilities to carry high temperature. A product for the outer contour should be made of a rigid material, otherwise its configuration will not be able to remain unchanged.

Also during installation uses:

1. Brackets on the wall for keeping the construction.
2. A revision consisting of a cleaning window, here also includes a stand.
3. Set of adapters.
4. Tees.
5. The knees that make it possible to change the direction of construction by 45whors or at right angles.
6. Clamps for fastening separate parts.
7. Discharge platform. It allows you to unmistakably calculate the mass of the facilities and remove the load from its base.
8. , rosette and napanese.

Installation and installation

Installation of chimney sandwich in the bath is the easiest view of the network laying for removal of combustion products. Small weighing elements of construction can be easily assembled by means of auxiliary elements.

The following requirements should be taken into account with the following requirements:

The most suitable length from the furnace to the fungus on the roof is 5 meters.

The pipe is vertically, without making ledges. The magnitude of the deviation from the vertical is allowed for thirty degrees, and the maximum deflection indicator is one meter.

Provided that the distance from the roof to the felling of the structure exceeds one and a half meters, it is necessary to put a stretch in order to fix it.

If combustible materials are laid on the roof, then at the end of the smoke design you need to install the grid - the intrinsicorator, the cells in such a device should be 0.5x0.5 cm. On the roof of a flat type, the smoke rift over its level is raised above one meter.

Located horizontally, part of the chimney should not exceed the distance more than one meter.

Places where elements are joined, you need to leave in sight. They can not be left inside the roof overlap.

Such chimney in the bath is going very easily, it is done on the principle of the designer. One end of one detail "Sit" to the following item:

For this, the volume of each element from one edge is slightly larger than the return volume on the other side of it. The reliability of such compounds increases the clamps.

The correct installation of the system in the bath is not possible without the right assembly of the design. It should be started with fastening to the sandwich tube bows.

Such work involves the use of a starting cone. One of his end is "sled" on the nozzle of the furnace, and the second is connected to a direct portion of the structure.

Often the chimney in the bathroom is a simple design consisting of the tube outgoing from the stove. Through the roof and the ceiling, they pass with a small number of turns and auxiliary devices.

Conclusion through the ceiling

Installation of chimney in the bath through the ceiling is performed as follows. To exit the ceiling coating, a special node is arranged, which creates reliable fasteners and high fire safety:

Despite the fact that such a pipe is a design of two layers with non-flammable thermal insulation in the middle, to increase the level of safety in the ceiling opening for the chimney make a hole for mounting a small nozzle, which is diameter by 15-20 cm larger than the chimney diameter.

From the bottom, such a hole is sealed with a steel sheet. The part that turns out to be in the attic, fill in non-flammable material. To do this, you can take:

• basalt cotton wool;
• sand;
• ceramzit.

The insulation prevents the formation of a large amount of condensate in the sandwich, which is an additional advantage.

How can this be done with your own hands, is described below.

1. For insulation, two rectangular pieces of galvanized, which are folded in a cylindrical shape.
2. The bottom tube must be wrapped with insulating material. From above, the pipe is larger and connected by the rolling.
3. Clamp cut from iron sheet must have a width of 20 cm; In length, it should be equal to the length of the pipe covered. The chimney is bonded from below and on top.
4. Made pipes are connected according to the scheme.

This simple scheme of installation of sandwich designs can be used both when the designer of the smoke wire constructor and when it is replaced by its parts during the braveness with time.

Sandwich technology is quite simple for its design and practically does not require special skills.

How to make a cap on your own hands

To protect the chimney sandwich, it is necessary to equip the way out of ways with a special cap. This will help avoid shoting the furnace system in the coming years.

Video: Making Flugark + Cap + Dumbnik do it yourself

In addition, in our time, the material for such a design is not difficult to find. Focusing on the drawings, which are given as an example of work, you can quickly and easily perform all the steps by yourself.

Sequence when working

The cap can have different forms, among which most of all bent, cone-shaped and flat round, square or rectangular surface are distributed.

To establish a rectangular cap, you need to get acquainted with the scheme located below.

Metal sheet of stainless steel (you can use galvanized, copper and zinc alloys with metal).

1. Tools for work.
2. Gloves.
3. Flugarka.

In order to make a cap independently for the first time, it is better to pre-train on cardboard paper. Constructed one or two such blanks, you will clearly understand the manufacturing process.

Video: Cap do it yourself

In addition, they can make drawings on the front side of the metal sheet, aroused the carton along the contour. It also needs to read all the lines to be used for bends.

In the center of the drawing on a galvanized sheet, drill a narrow hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. Excessive cuts with scissors for metal.

With the help of the sheetogib, it is necessary to become styled all parts in such a way that the desired form is.

If there is no this device, you can do it with the help of well-tools. At the same time, try so that the cap does not remain dents.

The edge of 1 cm wide is begged in an angle of 45 degrees. In order not to get discrepancies in the corners, you need to start with them, gradually moving towards the middle.

Now it is worth checking on evenness. To do this, it is necessary to install a smooth fine stick under the center of the resulting figure and stick into a gross with the earth. With a correctly completed assembly, there will be no advantage in any side.

After all the main corners are cleaned, processed, reduced and leveled, you need to fix the cap to the base. For this, the products are connected using a special construction glue.

From above, you can additionally decorate it with a vane, which will spin and show the direction of the wind. To miss anything, use the applied video lesson "how to make a cap with your own hands."

Final actions

At this stage, the chimney is attached to the adjustable apron and the smoke design increases to the required dimensions.

The installation of the chimney in the bath with sandwich will be performed correctly, if it is correct to calculate the ratio of its diameter, height and volume. In this case, the type of stove and its power is also important. From these factors directly depends on the possibility of thrust and how well it will function.

Chimensions in the Russian bath classic type, should be built fireproof, do not contain many turns and bends. All its actions must be subordinate to the recommendations of professionals, and the hot heart of the bathroom will work smoothly for a very long time.

If "ambiguities" remain in the calculations, then you should seek advice to professionals. The money spent on it is fully compensated by a perfectly active smoke sandwich device, and therefore your good health.

Entries

The flow of chimney through the overlap, plays a key role in how efficiently, your solid fuel oven will work correctly. To create comfortable and safe conditions with your own hands, the ceiling chimney ceiling must be performed according to all the rules, standards and requirements. As far as the pipes, furnace units are selected, how correctly the pipes are selected. Also in the process of work with your own hands or with the help of a wizard, a cutting unit, node will be carried out. And the whole design should be completely fire. Also during the installation process, we will pay special attention to passing the pipe of the furnace unit through the ceiling overlap.

The flue of the chimney through the wooden overlap must be completed, taking into account all the requirements from the security side, ultimately such a furnace unit will be completely fire-fighting.

In order to bring chimney through the ceiling overlap with your own hands, you will need to equip this section by a node. Due to this element, you can make the distance between the pipe and the overlapping optimal and safe.

• If the chimney system is made of concrete or brick, the distance from it to the nearby crate or rafter must be at least 130 millimeters;
• If you prefer a ceramic chimney pipe for your furnace unit, this distance will be about 250 millimeters, despite the fact that the inner surface of the pipe is not insulated. If the layer of thermal insulation material is present, the distance can also be cut to 130 millimeters.

The chimney system is carried out only through pre-isolated overlap

The easiest way to install and carry out steel and sandwich chimneys

Space near the chimney pipe is isolated and high quality seal

Important: The entire information presented above is taken from the official documentation. These values \u200b\u200bare rules and provide the maximum level of fire safety if you decide to carry out the pipe, the pipe for the pipe, perform the cutting in the ceiling.

Mounting beams are also important to remember that one step will be about 600 millimeters (refers to insulated pipes).

The output tube has a diameter of about 115-120 millimeters, if you plan to install a modern system sandwich, the diameter increases to 300-320 millimeters.

When making a chimney mounting for your furnace device with your own hands through the ceiling overlap, you must observe the same distances from each side of the pipe. Ideally, this parameter will be about 130-150 millimeters.

Before starting the installation of beam overlaps, calculate the distance between them. To do this, you will need to multiply 130 to 2, and add 320 to the obtained numerical value. As a result, we obtain 580-600 millimeters between each of the beams. The value and similar calculations are carried out for pipes with thermal insulation layer.

For pipes that do not have thermal insulation, the calculations are made as follows: with a diameter of a nozzle of 115 millimeters, it is recommended to observe the gap of 250-300 millimeters. In this case, we produce multiplication 250 to 2, and adding 115 to the obtained numerical value and get a distance of 615 millimeters. This value and will be a step, and will also allow you to better orientate when installing pipes, creating nodes, dressings, installation of the nozzle of your furnace device when passing through the ceiling overlap.

When making installation, it is important to take into account how much the distance will be between the overlap and the surface of the chimneys:

• In the presence of a protected partition, and if the thickness of the chimney system is about 120 millimeters, the distance is approximately 250-270 mm. If the thickness of the nozzle is 50 mm, then the distance will increase to 370-390 mm;
• In the presence of an unprotected partition, the distance depending on the thickness of the pipe will be 300-320 and 490-520 millimeters (for pipes with a thickness of 120 and 50 mm, respectively).

Important: The passage of chimney through the overlap must be at an optimal distance from the wall partitions. Since the temperature range in the chimney system can be more than 600 degrees, the pipe located near the wall in some cases can lead to a fire. In order to perform the operation of your furnace unit as safe as possible, the walls located near the chimney need to be insolerated and driving with metal sheets.

What are the nodes

In order to maximally possible to protect the ceiling overlap from overheating and fire, to carry out the chimney pipe through the ceiling, uses a cut or otherwise an angle that can have a different look.

The best option is the ready-made purchase product most commonly used for industrial work. This option is represented by a metal box equipped with a galvanized plate fixed from one side. The center is equipped with a solid outlook, into which the pipes passing through the ceiling overlap are inserted. The product also allows you to put the thermal insulating layer, and from the room side the box has a decorative plate.

Around the pipe is installed steel plate, which protects the material of the ceiling overlap from ignition, melting

The diagram allows you to perform the ceiling cutting cut for chimney

It is interesting to know: Professional stoves insist on use as a node, cutting the box made of stainless steel, since the galvanized plate, when heated, begins to melt a little, as a result of which it begins to allocate a small amount of substances harmful to health.

In order to install this node with your own hands, a hole is cut into the ceiling overlap. Thermal insulation material (minit, stone wool, asbestos) is fixed further. Do not forget to strengthen the design with metal stripes. To secure the node used screws. In order to make the installation on a direct section of the pipe, a special element is worn, after which the design rises to the necessary height and fixes from all sides with thermal insulation.

It is interesting to know: the appearance and design features of the node or cutting may be different. This can be both a classic square design and rectangular, rounded, cylindrical or oval. The heat insulator itself is necessary in order to maximize the ceiling overlap protection.

If the cutting does not have a cylinder in its design, it means that it is additionally equipped with special sides, which is based on minirit or metal.

Pass through overlapping

In order to properly spend the chimney system through the ceiling, you must take the following nuances as a basis:

1. A simple metal non-insulated tube is fixed to the outlet nozzle of the furnace, the length of which is about one meter. Next, you can connect this plot with an already insulated system;
2. In places in passing the chimney through the ceiling overlap, the pipe from all sides is insulated with their own hands or is initially purchased in this state;
3. It is forbidden that the pipes are stripped among themselves in the locations through the ceiling overlap;
4. The total length of one horizontally located area is no more than 1 meter;
5. Do not use for one system more than 3 knees;
6. For the clutch of pipes, use only flexible fixing elements, since when heated, the chimney is capable of a sharp expansion, and after cooling, the squeezing.

Due to the correct cutting, the installation of smoking pipe systems, possibly in a wooden house

Choose thermal insulator

The space between the beams and the chimney system should be filled with heat insulating material. The use of basalt fiber is allowed as thermal insulation material. It is well tolerating temperatures not exceeding the range of 600 degrees. However, this fiber has a number of their flaws. First of all, with a strong heating, the material begins to allocate formaldehyde harmful to health. Also in the pipe is formed a large amount of condensate, which absorbs cotton and worsens the characteristics assigned to thermal insulation.

Tip: As a more winning alternative to basalt cotton, it is possible to use clamzite, which has a small mass consists of small elements, and when wetting quickly comes to its original position.

A more budget option for isolation between overlapping and chimney is the use of a luminous solution diluted with water or simple river sand. It is also not recommended to leave the space blank - it is not safe from the fire point of view.

The pipe with the protective metal screen is inserted into the hole of the suitable diameter

The chimney hole has dimensions allowing you to install a pipe, a protective screen and a box

How to protect the surface, materials from overheating:

1. The chimney system is equipped with a water jacket. Warming up, water can be found in the house and used for household needs;
2. The chimney system can be supplemented with a simple suspended barrel, in which after water heated heavily, it merges and replaced cold.

Cooling pipes is also made using the installed additional pipe, which must be applied and equipped in the upper and lower part with lattices, providing good circulation, the passage of air masses.

Cutting

If you wish, the purchase structure can be replaced with your own hands according to the following instructions:

1. The hole is overlapped with a pre-carved element from a stainless steel sheet;
2. In the center weeping a round pass, the diameter of which is 12 millimeters more than the pipe itself;
3. we drink in the ceiling overlap similar in their form and sizes;
4. From each edge, the passage is closed with basalt fiber;
5. For additional protection of the heat insulating layer, it is closed with steel stripes;
6. In the process of assembly, we fix the first knee on the furnace and complement the design with a sheet of stainless steel;
7. This section of the system must have a vertical location. We produce the fastening of the element on the attic room;
8. We produce the fixation of the special plate and in the space formed between it and the ceiling lay the layer of heat-insulating material;
9. Fasten the plate with self-draws;
10. We produce insulation passage.

Qualitative insulation of ceiling overlap, with installation and fixing several steel sheets at once

It is important that the chimney is well insulated - it will not allow to accumulate and form on its inner surface condensate

Isolation is produced for the thickness of the ceiling overlap

If you do not know how with your own hands, perform the ceiling cutting for the chimney, we recommend to view the following video:

The right ceiling cutter for chimney is a security deposit and longevity of your bath. In this case, like fire safety, it is better to overdo it with security measures than something inadequate. With this, it is unlikely that someone will argue. Therefore, we study the recommendations of the fire service and make the flow of chimney through the bath ceiling for all the rules.

For the pipe in the bath you need to make a special passage node through the ceiling. This is a device that provides safe distances from the outer surface of the pipe to the materials of the ceiling overlap. They are regulated by SNiP 2.04.05-91. Recommendations Such (paragraph 3,83):

• from the outer surfaces of brick and concrete pipes to combustible rafters and crates - at least 130 mm;
• from ceramic pipes without insulation - at least 250 mm, from them with thermal insulation - 130 mm.

These numbers must be taken into account when installing the beams of overlapping. Their step is usually taken small - about 60 cm. With this step, the recommended distances will be supplemented only when using pipes with insulation. For example, sandwiches.

The diameter of the outlet of the furnace is most often 115-120 mm. If used when passing through the overlap of a sandwich with a heater thickness 100 mm, the outer diameter will be 315-320 mm. From all sides there should be a distance of at least 130 mm. It turns out that in this case the distance between adjacent beams should be 130 mm * 2 + 315 mm \u003d 575 mm. Just get into the range of 60 cm.

There are a lot of sandwiches on the market with a heater thickness 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. You can find a layer of 100 mm in stores specializing in bathrooms. Only in bath smokes there are temperatures from which 100 mm layer of mineral wat should be protected. Is it possible to use 50 mm layer? You can, but you want to bathe calmly, take 100 mm - more reliable.

Calculate the minimum distance for chimneys without insulation. In this case, with internal diameter 115 mm, a safe distance from the outer edge of the pipe to combustible materials is 250 mm. The distance between the beams in this case should be 250 mm * 2 + 115 mm \u003d 615 mm. Let a little, but not passes. But this calculation is for not the largest diameter of the smoke channel. There are much more. In any case, if the ceiling is not yet made, calculate the installation step of the beams with this factor.

So do it is impossible - the distance from the pipe to the ceiling and the walls are very small, so also the wood is not protected

At the same time, at mandatory Annex 16 there are recommendations for the retreat (distance from the outer surface of the pipe to combustible materials):

• for the partition protected from fire:
  • with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 200-260 mm;
  • with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 380 mm.
• for an unprotected partition:
  • with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 260-320 mm;
  • with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 320-500 mm.

In this application, we are talking about the retreat from the walls. After all, very often chimneys pass near the walls. And their material also needs protection: the temperature of the flue gases at the outlet of the furnace can reach 500 ° C. If the walls of the wood are not protected, they work, and then flashed. Therefore, the walls are placed on the walls (the cardboard is suitable from mineral wat), and the sheet of polished stainless steel is stuffed from above.

Types of passing units through the ceiling

When crossing the ceiling overlap, materials are needed to protect from heat, and somehow fix the pipe in a certain position. With this task, the ceiling cutting is coping with or, as it is also called a "pass node".

Passing units are industrial manufacture. They are a box of metal or minorite, to which, on the one hand, a plate made of stainless or galvanized steel is coming. In the middle of this node, a hole is made, s which is inserted by sandwich. Plate on the side of the room closes the hole in the ceiling, decorating it. It also serves as a support for the heat-insulator, which for better heat insulation fill the gap between the pipe and the beams of the overlap.

Regarding what material to use the peaks in the bath, there is no disagreement: only stainless steel. The fact is that at temperatures that are characteristic of Parims, the galvanized distinguishes far from the most useful substances. Therefore, the option is one: stainless steel.

Mounted all simple. If the ceiling was made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, in the right place (between the beams), a square hole is cut out, which is 1-2 cm less than the sizes of the decorative panel. The beams and boards are closed with a layer of heat insulator. If there is, you can navigate the mineritis, basalt or asbestos-cement cardboard stripes (the asbest is bad, so use it only in extreme cases), just a strip of stoned wool isolation. In some cases, a heater of the insulation of metal strips is required (when it is needed, see below).

So you can not - it was necessary to cut a square hole. And so the lining on the ceiling near the pipe is already charred ...

When installing the pipe to the furnace, the device is put on the straight area, which will cross the overlap. The passage node is just rising to the desired level. Under its edges, which relate to the ceiling boards, led the heat insulator band, then everything is fixed with self-draws. In many nodes, manufacturers even make perforation under the self-tapping screw, so there are no problems in this.

The configuration of these products is different. Sometimes around the hole for the pipe make a metal cylinder. The edges of the decorative plate at the same time significantly protrude for this cylinder. When installing the passage node of this type, the hole is cut on the same square shape. You can also a circle, but from the pipe to its edge there should be a distance of at least 130 mm if the pipe is inlated, and 250 mm, if it is without isolation. With this option, please note: the dimensions of the plate should be enough to mask the hole. In addition, with this form of passage through the ceiling, be sure to protect the wood of overlapping not only with heat insulators, but also to breathe it with metal strips.

There are nodes of the passage, in which there is no cylinder around the pipe, but the outdoor board are made around the perimeter. They are made of metal, and maybe from Ministerith. If the board is made of metal, the edges of the cutting in the ceiling are necessarily covered with a heat insulator (for example, a basalt cardboard or the same minister). If the boards are made from Minister, then they themselves are a good thermal insulator. So the additional thermal insulation of the edges of the cutout is not required (but you can restrably).

Rules of passage through the ceiling

Planning the chimney sizes, take into account several rules:

Which heat insulator use

After the device is fixed on the ceiling, climb the attic or the second floor, and fill the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the beams with the heat insulator.

You can use basalt wool as thermal insulation. But be sure to check the area of \u200b\u200boperating temperatures should be more than 600 ° C.

Some consider this option is not the best. First, during production, resins are used as a binder, which are filled with formaldehyde when heated. Secondly, condensate runs around the pipe. And mineral wools (and basalt, too), with wets, lose their heat shield properties. And when drying, they restore them only partially. So the option is really not the best.

We still fall asleep with a grainsite with a medium and fine fraction. This is a natural material having a relatively small weight. Even if he wet, then dries, and the properties restores. When wetting, thermal conductivity is slightly increasing, and it has a ceramzite and so worse than the Minvat.

Previously, sand used. The option is not bad in all respects, except for one detail: it gradually wakes up through the slots. To replenish the sandbox - the case is simple, but the permanent sand is annoying on the stove.

If we talk about natural heat insulators, you can use clay. It is bred to a paste-like state and the whole gap is missed. Sometimes clamzit use as filler.

One and thermal insulators - Ceramzit

Here is a review about the use of clay in the passage of a bath tube:

"Clay in the cutting rolls! At his bath disassembled chimney. Rather, I disassembled what was left: there was a lot of snow, and when it gave me the whole top. Once the top of changing, then the bottom look you need: 7 years already stands the pipe. So here. Inside Gary - Zero, there is no progress of pipes either. Condition - as soon as I put. I have a penetration on the perimeter of basalt cotton, and then everything is caught by clay. Definitely it is the best option. "

Not everyone advise using insulation in the passage node. There is an opinion that it is better to leave the gap blank: so it will be possible to avoid overheating and breaking this section of the pipe - it will be better cool due to air blowing. Maybe it is also so, but radiation from the heated tube is overpowered by the nearby wood, and in this case the temperature of self-burning is significantly reduced - to + 50 ° C.

You can avoid overheating in several ways. The first, and the most rational - use heat that flies into the pipe and warms it up to the exhaust temperatures for their own needs. Here is the option three:

One way to avoid overheating - to lay stones on the pipe

1. Make a water shirt on a metal chimney, and hot water to use for a shower or heating. The system is not so simple, it takes another remote tank, as well as pipe supply, the supply of cold water, etc. But the temperatures above the water shirt will be far from so high, there will be no trumpet.
2. Also warm water, but it's easier: put a self-type tank. Also hot water is provided, the chimney does not overheat protected. But here is your nuances: not to allow boil, to drain heated on time, add cold. And it is not entirely convenient to do, since the tank is high: above the stove on the pipe.
3. Adjust the grid for stones. Water will have to warm in a different way, but plus here in the following: stones after the end of the procedure is dried by a bath. Here, too, difficulties may occur: the weight of stones is considerable, it is unlikely that without support can be done, except to use the factory option (right in the figure). In the homemade version, a design will be needed for the redistribution of the mass.

When using any of these methods, the temperature of the pipe in the ceiling passenger is significantly reduced. The probability of exercise becomes very insignificant. It's not all. There is a way - just cool the air. For this, another, larger diameter is put on the heat insulated pipe. The lattice is made from below, through which the air comes / comes out. For the steam room, it is not an option - it will pull out all the steam, and for the washing, you can use. Especially good way in the attic and when the roof pass.

Homemade ceiling cuts

Cut the chimney through the ceiling in the bath can and without the use of factory nodes. You will need:

As you can see, the ceiling cutting is made easily. This is the most simple, but quite reliable option. Another option is presented in the video. The work is more complicated, but if there are appropriate skills, this version of the passage through the ceiling is also implemented with their own hands.

Whatever the bath size and what it would not be heated, for the safety and comfort of the enjoyment of people, it is important to equip the smoke removal system correctly. Bath chimney has a simple design, but when it is erected, it is necessary to take into account the features of the materials used, the heating unit and structural elements of the structure.

The furnace or boiler is an important part of the bath package that can be located directly in the steam room or shutdered into the boiler room.

The heat device heats the room, heats the water and produces steam. A working heat generator during fuel combustion is distinguished in addition to heat sets of toxic substances. The smoke of the room does not just deliver discomfort, smoke in combination with the usual temperature and humidity for the steam room, can be fatally dangerous.

So that in the bath it is comfortable and safe, a reliable smoke system is needed.

The correct chimney displays the combustion products and maintains the process of burning fuel in a furnace or a boiler. In this case, the smoother design for furnaces and boilers can be internal or external. The external chimney is assigned to the heat unit, passes through the wall and builds up vertically. Internal - from the heat generating device is immediately directed up and output through the ceiling and roof.

Both chimneys have a similar design:

• starting assembly connecting the heating unit with chimney;
• chimney;
• passing elements to ensure fire safety when crossing the pipe structural elements;
• mine or external casing, creating a barrier between the chimney and the external environment;
• vfed chimney - umbrella, deflector or smoke to improve the thrust and protect the pipe from clogging.

Note! If the smoke system has angles, it is necessary to equip the revision units in places of rotation - tees with a drip and a window.

The outer chimney is much easier, but applies only in small rooms, since its inner part takes a little space. The internal smoke rummy is eaten a significant part of the useful space, it is better suitable for the bath, as it is an additional source of heat, which means it makes it possible to more efficiently consume fuel.

Types of chimney

The chimensing structures, both outer and internal, can be performed from various materials and combinations thereof:

Note! Sandwich pipes made of steel have low weight and do not need the equipment of the foundation. However, a sandwich combining an external steel casing with an inner ceramic pipe is much heavier and chimney from such sections without foundation is not being built.