Bath of gas-silicate blocks: construction and finishing on the example of a small private bath. Bath from the blocks with their own hands - just, quickly and cheap bath in the country from the blocks do it yourself

Bath from the blocks with their own hands is available to a home master with minimal construction experience due to traditional, new methods of construction of objects. Light blocks are usually used as a building material: foam concrete, slag concrete, sewer, aerated concrete. This reduces the overall weight of the walls, use a low-profiled foundation, to reduce the volume of earthworks. Thanks to the prepared (typical) project projects, the construction time is additionally declined.

Location on the site

In order to understand how to build a bath from blocks, the recommendations of specialists should be studied:

• location - the cleaning structure of the autonomous sewage bath must defend from home septication, water intake wells at 15 m (according to SNiP norms), preferably shaded place, approximation to the existing / planned water;
• design - a typical project (even with refinement) will cost cheaper than individual, but will not provide sufficient originality in terms of design, architecture, experts rationally calculate the size, quantity, functionality of premises, the depth of the foundation, communication, will create a estimate of building materials.

Block bath is a budget option that provides the maximum number of possible architectural styles, options for external / interior decoration.

The building can acquire the type of chopped hut (facing by a block house), the eastern pagoda (curved roof, lined with soft tiles), with a built-in pool, a fenced glass facade.

The construction of a bath from blocks will require the tool for the following type:

• hacksaw;
• korchka;
• master OK;
• mortar packaging;
• concrete mixer (usually gravitational type);
• plumb;
• level;
• rule;
• perforator.

In addition to standard blocks, jumpers (reinforced concrete or metal-rolled) are required, sawn timber (timber for lag roof, floor overlap, ceiling, cutting board), cladding materials in accordance with the preferences of the owners, the construction budget. The masonry is carried out by either ready-made masonry mixtures, or a solution is made of a mixture of sand, portland cement Mark M 400.

The main secrets of masonry are:

• when choosing a project, you should try to choose the length of the walls, multiple block size; This will facilitate the dressing of the corners, will save from cutting products;
• the jumpers may be inserted in place in a removable formwork from a material similar to the composition of the blocks, which will eliminate the occurrence of cold bridges during operation;
• the material does not shrink, so blocks of windows, doors are installed without technological gaps;
• the ventilation of the premises is mandatory, each channel begins at 1.7-2 m from the first floor, rises above the roof level by 0.7-1.5 m, without connecting with neighboring;
• the fan tube of ventilation cannot be connected to the ventilation canals of the room, also rises above the roof, is a continuation of the internal riser (it can be replaced by a vacuum valve);
• under the base of the furnace, the water tank is manufactured separate foundation;
• waterproofing (outdoor) base is mandatory.

All operations can be made with their own hands for the bath, which will save at each stage of construction, get a design with a maximum resource that does not require operating costs. If we build a two-storey construction, more rational to use concrete. If we build a bath with an attic, a traditional scheme with wooden floors is used.

Production of foundation

To reduce the depth of the ribbon basement, the thermal insulation of the stone wool of its outdoor plane can be used. The heat insulating layer begins on the level of the earth, comes to the bottom of the trench, after which it departs from the building at an angle of 90˚ at a distance of 1-1.5 m. Pouring to the formwork will save on acquisition, delivery, laying by lifting mechanisms ready, however (concrete production, distribution of it inside the formwork, drying, durability).

Recently, the manufacture of a screw pile foundation is practiced. It can be done with his own hands, even if the bath is located on a plot with a high corner, on the mountainous terrain with a complex landscape. For this, in the middle of the walls, screw piles are mounted in the middle of the walls, the leggings welded to the body of the pipes are set on the level, which is placed on a metal rolling (corner, chamber).

Bath windows have different dimensions:

• in the washing room, they are small (reducing heat loss through the glass);
• the rest room can have any size;
• in the bathrooms are usually not put.

For one-story building, the w / w overlapping plates are rare. Therefore, during the laying of the last row of blocks, Mauerlat - a ram on the outer edge of the wall wrapped in the rubberoid is wrapped in it. It is installed rafters, the load from which is evenly distributed to all bearing walls.

With minimal experience of welding, you can make your own hand oven in a bath. There are vertical, horizontal furnaces of fireboxes from the pipe, sheet steel with tanks that satisfy the need for boiling water with different number of users. The outer bearing walls have the thickness of the "in the block", the partitions are made by "in the half-block" or are built with a shield method (the timber, covered on both sides by the board).

After the construction of the box will remain to make the floor in the bath with your own hands. The most reliable option is concreting, followed by a cafeter, porcelain stoneware, PVC tiled, deching, wooden boards. If necessary, the "warm floor" systems increase in the concrete tie, which increase the comfort of use of the oil room.

Chernoby, finishing work

Inside the bath is used non-combustible finishing materials having a low expansion coefficient. Traditional finish - walls of lining, floors from a terrace board (Decing) or porcelain stoneware. Characteristics Bat from foam concrete is inferior to chopped structures, so thermal insulation of walls is used. The insulation layer is placed outside, which provides a rational scheme of the heat-insulating circuit, eliminates the dew on the outer surfaces

The modern bath often has a pair of steam room with salt blocks, bricks, panels, other exotic finishes (traffic jam, bamboo and so on). Professionals are recommended for the device of the sewage to make their own hands for bathing the drainage system, mountaineering, significantly increasing the service life of the base, roofing, base. Moreover, the railway, drainage we build when refining the territory, creating around the building of the landscape design, which reduces earthworks twice.

Thanks to modern polymer pipes, make their hands in the bath sewer forces by any unprepared user. The insulation layer (extruded polystyrene foam, stone wool) can be installed inside the walls or in the wet facade system, in the latter case the material consumption is reduced (at the same time with the insulation of the box, an outer decoration occurs). The ventilated facade increases the construction budget, the facing has a high maintenance, does not require periodic updates.

Bath, at first glance, a simple structure. But when it is construction, there are a number of questions that need to be known in advance. Thoughtful and properly implemented design will provide long-term operation of the bath, to the pleasure of owners. But this is not all, you need to choose the right building blocks and other materials.

What blocks to choose for walls bath

Acceleration of the construction pace has always been a single task for the customer and artist. Building brick does not always contribute to the solution of such a task. High thermal conductivity, small dimensions and complex masonry lining reduce the pace of construction.

The problem of the problem was the creation of enlarged building stones. They are distinguished by low thermal conductivity, large sizes and weight, allowing you to move the blocks manually. Monolithic products are used when laying the base parts of the structure, the blocks hollow and with various additives go to the construction of walls.

Bath of blocks with facial outer decoration will serve for a long time

Types of building blocks

The most popular are:

• concrete;
• foam concrete;
• gas-silicate;
• slag concrete;
• ceramzite concrete;
• polystyrene bonts;
• arbolite, and many others.

The decision to apply a material depends on its availability in the production region. For example, slag blocks produce in many enterprises of the metallurgical industry due to the availability of the main material - a domain slag. Arbolite products produce woodworking plants, the main material is the technological chip. This allows you to get products of sufficient quality at a minimum cost.

The strength characteristics of the building stone in the form of blocks ensure the safe operation of the buildings of them for at least 50 years.

What products to use for construction depends on the construction of the building, the construction region, as well as their physical characteristics, weight and sizes.

Consider the main properties of materials Read more:

Stones from concrete

For their production, heavy cement and sand-gravel mixture are used. Heavy reinforced blocks must be submitted to walls using lifting mechanisms. For private construction, thirty-cellogram concrete products are used with dimensions of 20x20x40 centimeters and hollow-dimensional dimensions 20x50x10 (15) 20 centimeter weighing up to 18 kilograms. The durability and strength of lightweight stones, the reduced consumption of the masonry solution, high productivity on the masonry, level the negative aspects of the application of this material. Outdoor walls made of concrete need extra finish.

The material is suitable for the construction of any objects, including baths.

From concrete wall blocks, durable buildings can be built, including baths

Foam concrete blocks

The products do not have a big density, so their weight is small even with large sizes. Thanks to the good workability, foam concrete stone is used to masonry the walls of a complex configuration. It is easily crucified by the usual saw, well leaving.

This material is very popular in rustic construction for the construction of residential buildings. Naturally, the baths are built from it to use the remnants of the material.

Foam concrete allows you to build quickly and efficiently

Thanks to the cellular structure, foam blocks have low thermal conductivity and good soundproof properties.

Slagoblocks

In the production of high-grained stones with dimensions of 390x190x188 millimeters, heavy components are introduced into the concrete mixture. Hollow elements are also produced in size as a size of 90 millimeters. Such building stones are used to build internal partitions.

The disadvantage of such a material is a tunnel porous structure.

Inexpensive and reliable material for building houses and baths

Outdoor surfaces from slag blocks require additional finishes.

Multilayer clay systems

Ceramzite - foamed and baked clay. In production, the granules of various sizes of the porous structure are formed. For the production of building stones, a fraction is 5-10 millimeters. Very lightweight material. It is produced in the same sizes as slag blocks, has higher carrier characteristics in comparison with foam blocks. It is often used to build a bath.

The production of multilayer blocks with a gasket made of polystyrene foam and faceted side of concrete with decorative trim is mastered. When forming layers are fastened with reinforcement grid of plastic. When building a building with the use of multilayer stones, external finishing works are excluded.

Multilayer block multifunctional and does not require outdoor decoration

Concrete blocks with filler

As an additive, a granular polystyrene foam, which gives material low thermal conductivity is used. At the same time, the strength characteristics correspond to foam concrete. Low thermal conductivity allows you to use such a material as thermal insulation. There is not enough good adhesion of polystyrene foam with concrete leads to an increased shrinkage of such stones under load. Outdoor finish for this reason you need to carry out the carcass.

It is produced in size 588x300x188 (300) for supporting structures, as well as 80, 92 and 138 millimeters for internal partitions.

Material with high thermal protection for masonry wall bath

Wood concrete stones

Arbolit is a mixture of 90% of the filler with concrete. The main material uses wood chips with dimensions of 25x10x6 millimeters. It is wetted by mineralizing substances, the cement grade 400 is added and stirred thoroughly. The mass is folded into the forms with dimensions of 500x300x200 millimeters.

The thermal conductivity and moisture permeability of the finished stones correspond to the properties of wood. In this case, the material is not subjected to rotting, it does not burn and does not succify. The strength properties correspond to the same feature of foam concrete, and frost resistance is akin to indicators from ceramic stones.

The positive quality of arbolit is its high elasticity.

Environmentally friendly, warm and economical material

The ability of a stone for water absorption is questioned by its use for the bath.

Table: Specifications of some building stones

Indicators	Material
	Concrete		Foam concrete	Gasobutton	Polystyrevbeton	Arbolit
Density, kg / m 3	500–2000	850–1500	400–1000	300–600	300–600	500–850
Strength, kgf / m 2	46–780	37–75	15–25	25–45	15–35	0,5–3,5
Jung module, MPa	-	-	-	-	-	250–2300
Hygroscopicity,%	8	8–14	10–16	25	4	25–50
Thermal conductivity, W / m about with	1,75	0,4–0,8	0,07–0,15	0,1–0,21	0,1–0,15	0,1–0,17
Coeff. Parry permeability	0,03	0,3	0,26	0,26–0,23	0,05	0,3
Sound absorption, dB.	55	43	50	47	55	60
Frost resistance, cycles	200	50	35	25	25	50
Shrinkage, mm / m year	0,5	0,8	3	0,3	1	0,2

Given the data for the construction of the bath, you can stop your choice on the polystyrene material. This can be justified by the following considerations:

1. Low parry permeability coefficient. This is an important point, since with the periodic use of this room inevitably the appearance of a large amount of condensate.
2. The material has the lowest ability to absorb moisture, which is always enough in the bath.
3. Significant shrinkage can be compensated by the selection of lightweight materials for the upper structure and roofing cake.

The remaining characteristics of building stones of different species are approximately the same. The decisive factor when choosing a material will be the ratio of price - quality.

Preparing for building: Drawings and project sizes

Bath, originally intended only for hygienic purposes, today gradually turns into a multifunctional structure. At the same time, it is increasingly reminding the recovery center. In addition to using the room for direct purposes, the bath can combine summer cuisine and laundry.

Choosing a place

This is an irresistible question, and deciding it to take into account such circumstances:

• the distance from the foundation of the bath to the border of the site should be at least 2.5 meters;
• distance to the point of water intake - at least 20 meters;
• there must be more than 10 meters between the residential house and the bath.

These requirements are justified by the need to preserve water quality in the well or well and the safety of the foundation of a residential building. Depending on the density of the development, the need for the septic device is possible. This is when there is no central sewage system at the place of development.

How to locate the bath on the countryside

Planning premises

When designing a bath, it is necessary to provide the following functional blocks:

• waiting room;
• dressing room;
• steam
• shower;
• cooling and rest zone;
• restroom.

Consider the relationship to determine the size of each compartment.

Bath device for simultaneous visit to 10 people

Ladies

This room must accommodate at least 2/3 people than the number of places in the steam room. The equipment of the room should include hangers for outerwear, place for shoes and the corresponding number of seats.

Dressing room

The places in this room should be twice as much capacity of the steam. For each visitor, an area of \u200b\u200bat least 1.2 m 2 is needed.

Example of a cozy locker room in a bath

Here you need to lay a hanger and a wardrobe with the number of hooks for clothes at least one per person. The size of this device is 190x160x40 centimeters, the distance to the walls of at least 85 centimeters on each side. The room is equipped with seats or bench.

Shower

The right place to accommodate is between the locker room and the steam. The number of fragrant devices is calculated from the ratio of one nipple into four places in the steam room. Hangers and shelves in this room must be made of easily washing material. The floor is performed with a slope in the direction of drain, from non-slip materials.

Beautiful interior device in a simple washing

Parich compartment

The size of this room should take into account the possible number of soaring people at the same time. The minimum presence should be at least two people from the calculation of 85 centimeters per each. It is also necessary to take into account the size of the heater.

Convenient parry bathroom

Recreation and cooling area

In this room it is customary to make a pool. Its minimal surface area is 6 square meters, depth - 1.3 meters. If children are present in the bath, it is necessary to provide a decrease in level up to 0.5 meters. If there is insufficient space on the plot, the pool and recreation area are placed in the open air.

Recreation Room Design Option for Bath

Toilet room

It is placed in such a way that it is possible to connect the drain in one system with a shower. The minimum size of the room is 0.85x1.5 meters.

To perform the drawing, it is better to use paper with a millimeter mesh and to read on it the location of all rooms in real sizes, including the thickness of partitions. The main walls are drawn by the latter, the structure of the structure is determined by the layout of the compartments listed above. Door pastes in the bath are performed with dimensions of at least 0.8x1.9 meters.

Selection of Material Masonry

Choosing a specific wall block, you need to take into account the following circumstances:

1. The geometric dimensions of each product must be the same. Blocks should not have chips, cracks and other defects.
2. It is necessary to find out the specific manufacturer of materials. If it is a handicraft or semi-pedars, it is better to refuse such a material. The solid manufacturer always provides a quality certificate to his goods.
3. It is necessary to find out the presence of the desired goods in the warehouse and the regularity of its receipt. If this one-time supply subsequently does not succeed.

The number of blocks is calculated by the size of the walls of the walls. We determine the quantity of the square masonry meter for the standard block with dimensions of 390x188x190 millimeters. The vertical masonry meter is placed - 1000: 188 \u003d 5.3 pieces, and horizontally - 1000: 390 \u003d 2.6. In the square meter there will be 5.3 * 2.6 \u003d 13.8 blocks. It remains to multiply the total area on the number of blocks to determine the volume of purchases.

Holding the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls to exclude the total magnitude of the door and window openings.

For internal capital partitions, a special unit is acquired, the order of calculation of the amount is made along the same technique.

In the calculation, the thickness of the masonry mortar of 10 millimeters is intentionally missed. This will be a safety amount of material to compensate for losses during transportation and unloading. Unfortunately, it is inevitable.

Wall Masonry Tools

Performing this work does not require a large tool set. Given the small amount of work, you can do the following:

Tool name	For what is intended
Construction level	Horizontal verification during masonry
Cord	Control of fixing masonry in the course of work
Plumb	Vertical verification of corners
Tray (boat)	Cooking for masonry
Capacity	To supply a masonry solution to the workshop
Skovka shovel	To mix the dry mixture in the tray and the lifting of the solution, as well as for sieving sand.
Sieve oblique	Sand sifting in order to remove garbage, kameshkov and Rakushki
Ladle	Submission of the solution on the surface of the wall
Trowel	Placement of the solution for the next block.
Spatula toothel	Uniform placement of a masonry solution on the surface of the wall
A hammer	To edit the position of the block at the place of its placement and jointing for fitting
Extending	For the final formation of the seam on the facial side of the masonry

Depending on the volume of work, other tools or equipment can be applied, such as concrete mixer. It is not necessary to acquire, you can rent for a short time.

Performing work alone is almost unrealistic, you will need at least one helper.

Minimum working set of tools and fixtures for masonry

Bath of blocks with your own hands: Maintaining masonry

The process itself is performed on the finished foundation after the waterproofing. Further:

1. The masonry starts with the corners, carefully laying the first stones and checking their position in space. Be sure to measure the diagonal, they must be the same.
2. The lower row is laid out on the cord, stretched between corners with a constant level check.

   Formation of corners on the first row of masonry

3. The masonry solution is supplied to the surface of the wall with a bucket, originally distributed to the cylma and finally resurrected with a toothed spatula.

   The use of a special tool improves the quality of masonry

4. The next block is placed on the solution and drives around the place by hand, and if necessary, a hammer. The seam thickness when laying by blocks should be approximately 10 millimeters. The inexperienced bricklayer is difficult to withstand the thickness of the seam. Therefore, at first, you can use spacers from the rod. After installing the stone they are removed.
5. At the end of the row, the angles are increasing again, the location of the stones is checked and the process continues.

   Any blocks with fillers provide high quality and labor productivity.

6. When forming the masonry, the seams are groaning so that they do not coincide in different rows.
7. In the location of the openings, jumpers from reinforced concrete plates or metal profiles are installed above them.
8. For the masonry of walls from polystyrene bonts, special installation glue is increasingly actively used.

When working with most types of blocks, ordinal reinforcement is applied. To do this, there are special longitudinal recesses in the blocks, in which the reinforcement rods are located.

Challenge the blocking of blocks increases the strength characteristics of the house

Finish

The construction of the box does not mean the end of construction. There is still painstaking and costly work on the finishing of the outer and inner surface.

Outdoor finish

Its appointment is to protect against atmospheric phenomena. Depending on the nature of the materials applied, it may be different. It disappears the need if blocks are made with the front side. Some types of building stones will require plaster to protect against atmospheric moisture or a special varnish that performs the same functions. Inexperienced builders can be recommended gypsum plaster for outdoor work. It is the most plastic and easy to use when working on lighthouses.

Interior decoration

According to the variety of methods and applied materials, the bath is different from any structure. So:

• When installing a heat unit for fire safety, the sheets of galvanized metal and asbestos sheet will be required. In the constricted conditions, Pariley rarely deleted the heating device at a meter distance from the wall. Therefore, a sheet asbestos should be nails on the wall with a thickness of 10 millimeters, and the leaf of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4 millimeters should be fixed on top of it.
• As protection against heat loss in the steam room, the insulation, polyethylene film and aluminum foil will be needed. The finishing layer is performed from natural wood.
• In the shower and toilet room need reliable waterproofing. It can be done by applying water-soluble bitumen mastic on the wall. Application technology is indicated on the packaging of this material.
• The surface is frozen by ceramic tiles.
• All rooms are equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation using appropriate materials and equipment.

The correct selection of materials for the construction of the bath will provide its long-term operation with the lowest costs for repair and maintenance. In this case, the decisive factor is the optimal price ratio - quality.

Video: Construction of a bath with their own hands from block construction stone

Steam in smartly arranged and beautifully decorated Balke - True delight. So that it becomes such, you need to make a lot of effort, but all costs will pay off with more than.

Today, it is most often used for the construction of private baths, block construction materials that have a number of advantages over more expensive sawn timber or bricks are used. The article we will talk about how to build with your hands a bath from blocks so that in the end it turned out a comfortable, reliable and safe structure.

Selection of building materials

Naturally, the primary task for the owner of the future bath is the choice of block material. The obviousness of this choice is not to speak, since the varieties of goods in this category in the construction market is definitely enough.

1. Gasobutton. The main components in the production of block data are cement and quartz sand with the addition of a special foaming composition. By combining these components in the form, the material is obtained with a structure of small cells, and then increase its strength due to steaming in a special high-temperature boxing (autoclave). The optimal brand for this material is considered - D500, but also the cost above (more details: "How to build a bath from a housekeeping with your own hands - step-by-step instruction"). There are blocks that have not passed the processing in the autoclave, which can be used only as an external cladding for the insulation of the bath. Bearing walls and partitions from such a material are strictly prohibited (read: "How to make partitions in the bath with your own hands - installation options"). A separate type is gas-silicate blocks in which no lime is applied instead of cement. However, such material absorbs moisture very much, because for the construction of a bath and a sauna is not recommended to use it.
2. Foam concrete. The same cellular building material, as well as aerated concrete, but a significant difference is traced in its small mass and increased thermal insulation characteristics. It is also made of sand and cement from sand and cement, but the binder is initially fed in the form of a foam by means of a special foam generator. The material has a number of positive qualities, the main of which may be the optimal value of the moisture absorption parameter. The value of the material is an order of magnitude lower than the D500 aerated concrete. A separate species are slag blocks that are made with the addition of porous slags. This type has the minimum cost, but heat loss when it is used is significantly higher.
3. Ceramzitobeton. The unique design of the ceramzite is poured with cement mortar. A distinctive feature of this type of blocks is low thermal conductivity, which allows them to be used as a building material for external walls without any insulation.

This types of block materials do not end, but it is best to choose a bath and sauna to build a bath and sauna. Next, we consider in more detail the stages of the algorithm where you can build a bath from blocks with your own hands with compliance with standards and various nuances. Read also: "What Bani blocks are better to use during construction - overview of materials."

Creation of high-quality foundation

Immediately after selecting the main building material (blocks), you need to start creating a quality foundation. Given that the blocks used in construction have a small mass, you can make the foundation of the average power, since there will be no excessive loads.

If the bath does not exceed 7 meters (with a long side), then a columnar or ribbon foundation is created. The column assumes the installation of supports from concrete at the corners of the building and in the fields of the bess of the bearing walls with partitions. Particularly long sections of the wall can be adjusted by additional columns. The strength of such a design increases due to the compound of the columns among themselves by means of reinforced woodwork.

The ribbon foundation is poured into a trench of a depth of 0.5 meters and width - 30-40 centimeters. A concrete solution is poured into the trench with a laying in its grid structure for reinforcement. Such trenches are dried under all carrier walls and partitions, which allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the building on the base (soil). Additionally, it is possible to use pile supports if the soil has an unstable structure and can cause the building instability.

Despite the fact that the type of foundation was selected, it is necessary to raise it above the soil level by 0.4-0.5 meters. This is necessary so that water from the Earth has a minimal impact on the lower blocks.

Also, when it comes to how to build a bath from blocks correctly, you can not forget about the waterproofing of the lower level of the walls. To do this, the Rolled Ruberoid is placed on two layers. You must not forget that the foundation should be done in the foundation for the installation of sewer pipes.

Construction of the walls and installation of the roof

On the finished basis, it is necessary to build a bath with the following rules:

• Rows of blocks should be laid in ideal horizontal lines, which is feasible only with constant use of the construction level, and the wall itself must be located at a right angle to the ground that should be checked using a plumb.
• Through 3-4 rows of blocks, it is necessary to produce reinforcement by laying a welded reinforcement grid or brunette insertion.
• Window openings can be arranged with wooden facades or special long panels.
• In the upper range of blocks, special studs of durable metal are mounted, which will be fastened with wooden bars Maurylalat, necessary to create support for future roof.
• Then the frame of the rafter is then mounted, which begins the bars and boards with a thickness of 2 centimeters. The roof in the bath can be double (more expensive, but more convenient to operate) or single-sided (cheaper, but it will be possible to clean from snow and laying waterproofing materials). Used to create a roof metal tile, erectifier or any other roofing material.

During the fulfillment of the above stages, it is necessary to take care of the summary of the main communications: electricity, water supply, sewage, etc. For this, opening and channels of the corresponding sizes should be made in the wall overlooks.

Interior decoration of bathrooms

After making a bath with your own hands, you need to start the interior of the premises. Most often, the inner decoration of the baths are made in such a way that the heat-insulating characteristics of the floors intensify (more detailed: "How to make the internal trim of the bath - a step-by-step instruction").

At this stage, there are also a number of rules:

• Ceiling floors are insulated on both sides, both in the attic (under the roof) and in the room. This is a priority measure for insulation of the room, since convection causes a constant rise of warm air to the ceiling. Roofing rates can also be insulated by installing panels from minvati and covering their membrane to protect against wind.
• In the case of floors, it is best to pour a concrete screed, followed by its insulation with clay, foam cell or polystyrene plates. On top of the heat-insulating material, boards are laid, but it is necessary so that the liquid drainage was carried out.
• The walls are mounted on the walls of wooden bars with a laying between them of thermal insulation materials: basalt wool or any other thermally stable insulation.
• On top of thermal insulation, it is necessary to fix foil or initially use the heat-insulating material with a foil layer. Only on the foil can be mounted a counterclaim from thinner decks and fix the lining on it.

The decoration of the premises is performed in such a way that the installation scheme of materials was the same, but the thickness of the thermal insulating layer may vary. The thick plot should be in the steam room, where the temperature will reach limit values.

It is necessary to warm the bath outside if the wall thickness is formed by one block. In this case, it is necessary to perform additional cladding of gas or foam concrete blocks.

Outcome

The article describes in detail the process of erection of a bath from block building materials describing the positive qualities of the species of these most materials. If you carry out all the work in compliance with the recommendations from this article, the construction will be high-quality, reliable and safe for visitors.

Also, work can be entrusted to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from purchasing blocks and other materials before the construction work and the introduction of baths commissioned.

Ceramzit concrete blocks are rapidly gaining popularity among private developers. The material is great for use in the independent erection of residential and economic buildings, including baths of various sizes and configurations.

Briefly about clay-concrete blocks

Among the key benefits of the ceramzitobetone should, first of all, note the excellent thermal insulation characteristics. For comparison: the blocks have this parameter on average by 200-300% exceeds a similar brick property. At the same time, put the blocks are not harder than the brick comparison: thanks to the low weight, they can be lifted without much effort, to transfer and stack alone, which eliminates the need for mandatory attraction of additional labor and special equipment. There are no complex features of masonry too: everyone will be able to build a wall of ceramic concrete blocks, who had to "communicate" with bricks - key principles are the same.

Comparison of building materials Characteristics of ceramic concrete blocks

An indicator is no less important for the conditions of housing construction, the absolute environmental safety of the ceramzite concrete - there are no harmful chemical impurities as part of the blocks. In the process of heating, this material, in contrast to many "counterparts", also nothing poisonous allocates. Therefore, the blocks are perfectly suitable for the construction of a bath.

But not everything is so unequivocal. Ceramzit concrete blocks, like each building material, have its own weaknesses. The leader of anti-tracking is pronounced hygroscopicity. At this point it would be possible to close the eyes, but not in the conditions of the bath with its high humidity. Yes, the saturation of walls with water in normal conditions is not so terrible, but at the very first frosts, the accumulated moisture will freeze and expand that after some time will inevitably lead to the destruction of the building material.

By frost resistance, the blocks made of ceramzitobetone also lose many available options. According to GOST, the average number of cycles of frost-thawing blocks is kept at 25-50. For residential construction in normal conditions - not the worst indicator. But in the bath, which, for example, in the cold season melts 1-2 times a week, and after it is left to the owner to cool, the mentioned number of cycles will be exhausted for a maximum of a couple of years.

To eliminate the aforementioned risks, the walls laid out of the ceramzite-concrete blocks are necessarily insulated and provided by moisture-insulation. A competent device for such protection will exclude the risk of wetting and subsequent destruction of materials.

This brief excursion in the theoretical part ends. Next to your attention is offered a detailed step-by-step guide to self-erecting a bath of ceramzite-concrete blocks: from the reference design device before installing the roof and recommendations for the inner arrangement of the premises.

Basis Fundament: Make the foundation for block bath

The number of types of supporting structures is impressive: columnar and tape, monolithic and prefab, concrete and bricks, etc. The choice of suitable characteristics of the foundation is a matter of paramount importance, because without a reliable foundation, it is not necessary to count on a normal building.

The bath from the ceramzite-concrete blocks is more advisable to erect on a tape or slab concrete base. When choosing a specific option, you focus, first of all, on the type of soil on the plot. Recommendations are reflected in the following illustration.

Features of the choice of other key characteristics of the foundation for block baths are also determined mainly by the properties of the soil on the site.

First, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the soil freezing (usually the foundations are trying to lay at least 20-30 cm below this indicator).

RegionsGluBube freezing of soil, cm

Vorkuta, Surgut, Nizhnevartovsk, Salekhard	240
Omsk, Novosibirsk	220
Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Kurgan, Kustanai	200
Ekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Perm	190
Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg	180
Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk	170
Samara, Uralsk	160
Vologda, Kostroma, Penza, Saratov	150
Voronezh, Perm, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Yaroslavl	140
Volgograd, Kursk, Smolensk	120
Pskov, Astrakhan	110
Belgorod, Kursk, Kaliningrad	100
Rostov	90
Krasnodar	80
Nalchik, Stavropol	60

Secondly, it is necessary to correctly identify the type of soil at the construction site.

Thirdly, it is necessary to take into account the relationship between the level of underground water and the depth of the soil freezing.

Ribbon supporting design can be used in a complex with most existing types of soils, which is the most common.

The slab designs are not so universal. They can only be used in a complex with not particularly moving soils.

Video - Ribbon Foundation

By choosing the optimal version of the supporting structure, it will only remain to calculate it, after which it will be possible to start directly to the construction of the foundation. Detailed recommendations for each of the above-mentioned stages were brought earlier in the relevant publications of our site.

Helpful advice! Decide in advance with the optimal dimensions and features of the internal planning of the bath. You can develop a project yourself, entrust it with a third-party specialist or use one of the ready-made solutions. The article discusses the projects of baths from the bar - this is not applicable, the main thing is to choose a suitable internal configuration.

Preparation

Let's start with the preparation of the required devices. For greater convenience, information is presented in the form of a table.

Table. Set for work

POSITION OFFERNING

	It will be used to sit down blocks. It is recommended to take the tool weighing about 1 kg. The metal hammer will not fit - Contacts with it can lead to the destruction of the blocks.
	In an additional presentation does not need.
	Allows you to control the correctness (evenness) of laying blocks.
	It is used to apply a masonry solution. It is convenient to use a tool with a rectangular platform.
	Use thin, but the maximum durable fiber cord.
	Allows you to properly place building elements before sawing into parts.
	The tool allows you to control the evenness of masonry vertically.
	It is used for cutting ceramzit concrete blocks. Also, this tool allows you to create shifts for placing fittings. Included with a grinder, use a cutting circle with a diameter of 22 cm.
	With this simple tool, you will load the concrete mixture of the input components of the masonry mixture and transport the finished solution to the workstation.
	Designed for mixing the initial components of the building solutions. You can do without this adaptation, using a manual mixture, but this will lead to an irrational increase in temporary and labor costs.
	Will be useful when performing high-rise works. The most optimal option is to rent a design near the nearest construction company.

In addition to the above, buy the following:

• directly blocks;
• cement, sand and water or ready-made glue for blocks;
• heat and hydrocariozing materials;
• armature (5-10 mm rods are suitable) or the reinforcing grid.

The list can be complemented by various small things - in this moment you are centered already in the course of the performance.

What to put blocks?

Blocks can be put on the cement-sand mixture or finished glue. Information about the available options is shown in the table.

Table. Binding mixtures for masonry of ceramzite concrete blocks

Material design

	Sold in the form of a dry mix. Cooking is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instruction and is reduced to stirring with the specified amount of water (sometimes additional substances are added to the mixture, refined separately in the instructions). For the preparation of the mixture, it is convenient to use a building mixer or an electric drill with an appropriate nozzle. Glue for blocks is characterized by high plasticity and excellent binding characteristics. The use of the composition makes it possible to obtain seams of a thickness of about 0.5 cm, which ensures higher thermal insulation properties of the structure, but increases the costs of its construction. The average glue consumption on the cubometer of blocks is from 40-50 kg and varies depending on the thickness of the seams. Several types of glue are available for ceramic concrete blocks: - Standard - suitable for working with ceramzite concrete, gas-silicate and other blocks. In addition to the main function, it can be used to eliminate small defects of blocks in the form of minor chips, cracks, etc.; - Winter. Designed for masonry in cold weather; - Heating saving. Allows you to build structures without "cold bridges", thereby significantly decreasing temperature losses. Well suited for the construction of walls and partitions bath. Among the manufacturers, the best proven in the market of binding mixtures and bonding components, can be noted the brands of Sarmat, Ilmax, Lismix. Helpful advice! Many manufacturers of ceramic concrete blocks offer glue designed specifically for masonry materials of their production. If possible, these compositions should be used.
	In this case, the following materials are taken in the specified quantities: - Cement from M400 is one share; - Sand - three shares; - Water - 0.7 pieces. Components are thoroughly mixed to obtain a homogeneous composition. Attention! The specified amount of water is averaged and may vary depending on the humidity level of the sand used. As a result, you should get a plastic composition, allowing unnecessary effort to plant blocks. Along with this, the mixture should not be spread. Helpful advice! To increase the elasticity of the mixture, instead of a certain lobe of the career sand, you can take a river material. Create a solution with small portions, about 1-2 hours of masonry work. It is better that the composition constantly stirred in the concrete mixer - so its plastic will be maintained at a sufficient level.

Choose a way of masonry walls

There are several methods of masonry of walls of ceramzit concrete blocks. The appropriate option is selected taking into account the characteristics of the structure, the thickness of the walls, the characteristics of thermal insulation and finishing facing. Information about the basic methods of laying is given in the table.

Table. Methods of masonry walls of ceramzite concrete blocks

Methods of methods and explanations

Half of the block	It is used when laying the walls with a thickness equal to the width of the ceramzite-concrete block (most often - 19 cm). When building a bath, this method can be used except if the construction is very rarely used according to your direct intended purpose. The block is putting a long side along the partition line. A row is one. Every 3-4 rows, the laying is hardening using fittings. The reinforcement belt is up to 200 mm high. For insulation, it is advisable to use polystyrene foam or mineral wool materials. The optimal thickness of the heat insulating layer is from 50-100 mm.
Whole block width	In this case, there is a bandage of walls, and the choke and spoonful rows alternate. The width of such a wall is 39 cm, i.e. along the length of the construction block. Recommendations for reinforcement are the same. The laying is optimally suitable for the construction of residential buildings and private baths. Recommendations for insulation and their thickness are similar.
600 mm wide	This method has a lot in common with a bracket of bricks. Blocks are tied up, there are emptiness between them. To fill out free gaps, thermal insulation material is used.
Two walls	2 parallel walls in half block are laid. Metal rods are used for bundles. There is a 5-10-centimeter thermal insulation layer between the walls. The method guarantees high thermal insulation indicators, and therefore quite well suited for the construction of the bath.
With facing	The walls are laid out in half the block or in a whole block. The method differs from the previous one only in that instead of a second parallel wall, a facing brick is used.

The choice of a suitable way remains behind the owner - the main points and the sequence of actions are preserved, so there will be no problems in the process of performing work.

Important comments about seams

The optimal seam thickness is 0.6-0.8 cm (if necessary, you can up to 1 cm). In the case of using finished mixtures, the seam thickness is often reduced (information on this is specified in the manufacturer's instructions).

Important! The more subtle seams are made between the blocks, the more plastic solution must be used. Modern plastic mixtures make it possible to reduce the thickness of the seams up to 3-4 mm.

The seams are filled in completely by the "Void" method, Kelma applies to remove excess solutions. It is also possible to fill the inter-block seams "inletovka" - in this case, the seams leave free about half a centimeter. The use of the second method is usually resorted if the wall decoration is planned by plaster. Actually, where they will plaster, and leave the space free from the solution.

Important! Before starting construction, you need to determine the optimal thickness of the wall. To save you from long-term calculations, immediately give the appropriate value: 400-500 mm for central regions. Residents of other climatic zones should be proportionally reduced or increasing the recommended indicators in accordance with weather conditions on the ground.

Nuances reinforcement

As noted, the walls of ceramzite-concrete blocks, as well as structures from most other block building elements, are reinforced every 3-4 rows. In this section, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the procedure for holding this event, so as not to return to it in the future.

In order for the finished structure to be as stable and reliable, other elements of the building are subjected to additional hardification, namely:

• the first row (not always, but very desirable);
• bottom seams of window openings. Actually for cases when the dimensions of the opening are more than 180 cm. In this case, the space is reinforced to a length at no less than 0.5 m on each side of the opening;
• the supporting surfaces of the door and window jumpers are also 50 cm and more than each side of the opening.

Depending on the characteristics of a particular project, other elements of the structure can be rejected - it is determined individually.

Important note! The technologies of reinforcement and masonry of most building blocks remain similar. You should not be afraid if the products presented in the following illustrations will differ from the clamp concrete blocks purchased by you. The provisions of the technological processes in question are relevant.

Reinforcement is performed using a rod with a diameter of 8 mm (in this case, 2 longitudinal grooves with dimensions 4x4 cm along the length of the reinforcement, the remaining space will be filled with a solution), or a mesh (made of wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm, cell sizes - 5x5 cm (under the arrangement of openings - 7x7 cm), from the bottom and on top of corrosion using a 2-centimeter layer for masonry), or reinforcement frames (paired steel strips connected by a wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, are stacked on a layer of glue; It is topped with a second layer of glue / mortar).

In the second and third cases, special difficulties do not occur - the technology is clear from the notes in brackets. Reinforcement with the help of steel rods deserves separate consideration.

Table. Reinforcement of masonry from blocks

Stage workbook

	As noted, the shorters in the number of two pieces are cut into the center, i.e. At the same distances from the edges of the block and its middle. The recommended stroke sizes were previously indicated. An excellent assistant in this business will be manual or electric strokesis, depending on the availability of electricity on the site. To perform the work as much as possible, you can pre-mark the markup, using suitable tools for this, for example, a long straight rail and marker. Also, the rail can be laid in the center of the block and simply make rugs along its side edges.
	Inactive the internal space of the stroke with a brush-umbrella or a construction dryer.
	Insert the rod into the prepared shoes and cut down the length. In this you will help Bulgarian. In the absence of such a manual tool (hacksaw) or other suitable fixture.
	Having finished with fitting and clutch, get the fittings from the stroke and do the following: - Fill in the deepening with a solution or glue for blocking blocks. Use the same astringent composition as for construction; - press the reinforcement rods into the solution; - Get rid of excess mixtures. Due to the solution will be ensured by protection of metal from corrosion.

For the arrangement of thin seams between the blocks, the previously reinforcing frameworks can be applied. It looks like this.

The scheme of the correct reinforcement of block walls is shown in the image.

Video - reinforcement of walls from blocks

Laying wall

So, the foundation is ready and covered with a layer of moisture protection material in the form of a bundle of bitumen + rubberoid, special waterproofing cardboard or other suitable material. You can begin the construction of walls. The sequence is described in the table.

Table. Laying walls of ceramzite concrete blocks

Stage workbook

	On top of the waterproofing of the foundation, the solution selected for fastening the clay-concrete blocks is stacked. The recommended indicators of the layer thickness in accordance with The parameters of the mixture used were previously brought. At this stage, a trowel will help you. Also, for applying a mixture, you can use a scoop or a bucket plaster with the subsequent resurrection of the workshop - as you are more convenient. Using this layer, deviations will be leveled. If the surface of your foundation is smooth or you Made alignment before that, skip the stage.
	The applied leveling layer of the solution requires additional processing of cement dust on top of it - it will lead to an increase in the bearing capacity of the binding components. In addition, such a treatment will exclude the likelihood of immersion of the construction unit into a relatively soft solution - otherwise the block would like to apply a leveching layer any point. Push the solution / glue layer a little (literally 1-3 mm) pure cement. Soon the carrier film is formed on the surface.
	One of the most responsible and important stages of work. Helpful advice! Before masonry, give blocks a minute lie in cold water. The material will be saturated with moisture and will not take it from the solution / glue, thereby worsering the quality of the clutch. Install the first block from the ceramzite concrete strictly in the angle of intersection of future exterior walls. Align the product with the level and light tapping rubber hammer. In the same way, install blocks in the other corners of the future bath. After that, make sure that the lengths of diagonals coincide, just as you did at the stage of arrangement of the foundation. Tensioning between the angular blocks guide cords to designate future walls of the bath - this will allow you to lay blocks strictly at one level. Ignoring this recommendation and attempts to fulfill the construction of "on the eye" will soon turn into the swelling, deformation and destruction of structures.
	Continue lay out the angle in accordance with the considered technology. On the side walls, the solution is usually not applied. The following exceptions: - a block that is joined with the front surface of perpendicularly installed building elements; - Sliced \u200b\u200bproducts. Having an angle about this size as in the photo, check the quality of the work done with the help level. Get rid of detected deviations using a rubber hammer for this.
	Before embarking on the construction of walls, it is better to lay out every angle at least 3 rows. Control the smooth laying of each row of blocks. This will help you the construction level.
	Check the vertical masonry after the arrangement of each row. At this stage you will help the instrument called a plumb. Horizontality is controlled by a bricklayer cord (mooring) and level. This moment will be consecrated further.
	Be proceed to the construction of the wall after laying several angular rows. To control the vertical of the masonry, use the order. The tool is demonstrated in the photo and is represented by a simple straight rail with labels in the height of the blocks. Important note! Rows of the wall laid out of the corner elements. Having reached the bottom of the window under the window, the laying is conducted from the corner in the direction of the nearest simpleness.
	Do not forget to stretch the stuffing cord between the angular blocks when you lay out each row. With this simple device, it will be easier for you to control the smooth laying of building elements in the horizontal plane. The principle is simple: - pulled cord; - put the block; - leveled the building element in relation to the rope and the rest of the blocks with the help of a rubber hammer.

Video - masonry corner from blocks

Video - masonry of walls of ceramzit concrete blocks

You have got acquainted with the technology of masonry walls from block building elements. Do not forget to perform reinforcement in accordance with previously obtained recommendations.

Important technological aspects of masonry of walls of ceramzite concrete blocks

For the successful completion of work, you need to understand in a number of technological nuances. These moments will be consecrated further.

What should be a bandage of ceramzite-concrete blocks?

As noted, the construction is carried out on the principle of brickwork: vertical joints between clay-concrete blocks in different rows are shifted to half the block.

The minimum shift in the walls laid out of full-size ceramzitoblocks is 100 mm. The scheme of proper dressing of full-size blocks is shown in the image.

For cases when the wall is laid out with the involvement of embellished (not full-sized) items are relevant as follows.

How to connect the inner and external bearing walls?

If possible, build an external bearing wall along with the inner. Connection Perform so:

• place the first row of the inner bearing wall in the outer. Use the solution;
• when laying the next row, start the block of the inner wall to the outer approximately 100-150 mm. To do this, cut the outer wall clauttle block to the specified value;
• heat the compound of the 50-millimeter layers of foam or mineral wool. Due to this, a smaller indicator of the thermal insulation properties of the ceramzite-concrete block of the inner bath wall will be compensated.

The masonry of partitions are performed after the construction of bearing bath walls is completed. Pre-in them are established anchors to ensure the subsequent conjugation of the internal partitions and finished bearing walls. The ends of the anchors are placed in horizontal seams of the outer walls and seam seams. The necessary holes can be made drill.

In most situations, the construction of walls and partitions from one only full-size blocks is not possible. The cutting elements are cut in place, i.e. In accordance with the dimensions of the empty gap remaining after laying full-size ceramzite-concrete blocks. For cutting, a disk steel saw or an electromechanical saw is suitable.

Many masters adapt to this electrolovka. From the use of the Bulgarian it is better to refrain: an excessive amount of heat generating can lead to the destruction of the construction element. Directly cutting technology consists of 2 stages: mark the unit and gets rid of superfluous.

Helpful advice! For the arrangement of the openings, try to use not trimming the building elements as possible, and special enough blocks - reduce the number of cutting and provide higher quality performance.

Video - Cutting blocks

Not full-size building elements need to be carried out in the masonry. It is better to do this at the maximum distance from the slopes of the exhausting openings and the angles of the extraction structure. Displacement of vertical seams when laying not full-size blocks - minimum 40 mm.

Important! Vertical seams between solid and sliced \u200b\u200bblocks are necessarily filled with a solution.

How to shut up vertical seams?

On most plots, the vertical seams are not filled with a solution. The exceptions are the following places:

• compounds of solid and carved blocks;
• compounds of external walls with internal partitions - extremely desirable;
• connections of angular blocks.

How to drill holes in block walls?

Holes for water supply pipes, sockets and other similar things are prepared by a drill with a simple or coronary drill.

Important note! When drilling a drill, switch it to work in unwound mode.

How to make furrows in the walls from blocks?

The grooves for electrical conductors are made like this:

• in the wall prepared 2 parallel cuts. For this, a disk saw is used;
• the ceramzitobeton between the prepared propuls is eliminated by a chisel and a metal hammer;
• the groove is cleaned of dust and is used for its intended purpose.

If you wish, you can buy or rent a specially intended tool for such a work.

Important! According to the technology, in front of the arrangement of furrows, it is necessary to perform the appropriate calculations on the strength indicators. Without those are allowed to make only deepening, the dimensions of which do not exceed the parameters specified in the following table.

There are a number of significant notes in relation to the above information.

First, the parameter of the maximum channel depth should be considered as a relevant for any hole equipped during the preparation of the niche / channel.

Secondly, if the vertical channel rises higher than a third of the room in relation to the overlap, it can be made to a depth of 8 cm and 12 cm wide provided that the wall thickness indicator is at least 22.5 cm.

Thirdly, the distance between the furrows and the deepening should be from 22.5 cm.

Fourth, if the niches are located on one wall, between them you need to withstand the gap, at least 2 times higher than the width of a more overall niche.

Fifth, to determine the maximum permissible total width of the furrow and recesses, you need to multiply the length of the wall to the coefficient of 0.13.

Helpful advice! Does oblique and horizontal channels are not recommended. If they must be present, between them and the floor / ceiling need to withstand a distance equal to no less than 1/8 room heights. Without performing additional calculations, the channels can be made at a depth not exceeding the indicators from the table.

How to make jumpers over the openings?

There are quite a few ways to arrange jumpers over window / doorways, for example, they can be made from the blocks of a special form or ordinary brick. We offer you the easiest, fast and easy-to-implement method that implies the use of finished ordinary jumpers. Suitable for use both on the inner and outdoor walls. The number of jumpers varies depending on the thickness of the wall and its functional purpose.

The jumper sealing depth is selected with the width of the opening. The minimum permissible indicator is 125 mm. The principle is simple: the jumpers are stacked above the opening, part of the material on the form and size of the jumper is cut out of the blocks, the masonry of the walls continues to the desired height.

With its smaller side, the jumper is mounted on a 1,2-centimeter layer of cement mortar. In the case of using similar products, temporary mounting supports are usually not applied.

Jumper laying technology is demonstrated in the photo.

On the same photo, the thermal insulation liner is visible. It can be made from mineral wool. Recommended layer thickness - 80-120 mm. By mounting a set of jumpers, firmly bind their knitting wire. It will ensure the correct position of the structural elements until the vehicle is arranged.

Mounted jumpers immediately begin to perform a carrier function. Products are available, the height of which corresponds to the height of the blocks, which allows you to minimize the number of trimming. In this case, the surface of the wall will form a single level base with a jumper, which will allow the subsequent finish to maximize the subsequent finish, for example, using plaster.

If you can not find suitable jumpers on sale, you can make them yourself, for example, based on corners, adhering to recommendations from the following video.

Video - a device of jumpers over the openings with their own hands

You have familiarized yourself with all the technological aspects of masonry of walls from ceramzite concrete blocks. If you wish, you can use the same manual and when working with blocks from other materials - construction is conducted on the same principles.

Instructions for the arrangement of overlaps

As a rule, besides the lower tier, the bath has at least an attic semi-stage, as a maximum of 1 or more additional upper floors. To distinguish the tiers, overlaps are equipped. Both inter-storey and attic floors can be done, following the provisions of the same technology.

With the instructions for independent installation of this design element, you are invited to read further.

One of the most popular inter-storey overlap options is a reinforced concrete plate. But we will refuse this option. First, financial, labor and temporary costs of its arrangement will be inexpediently high. Secondly, you will have to perform many calculations to determine the load generated by the overlap, and understand whether the walls and the foundation of the bath can withstand operation in such conditions.

In such conditions, it is much more expedient to resort to the use of wooden inter-storey overlap. The design is relatively simple in arrangement and is built in less time with relatively small financial costs (if you compare with reinforced concrete slabs).

What to do the overlap?

To improve the overlap, it is best to use dry coniferous wood, designed specifically for use in such conditions (the material must comply with the construction industry standards - check with the seller's availability of related documents confirming this fact).

Helpful advice! If you wish, you can spend additional funds and make overlaps with MZP. Specialists in the field of construction often refer to such designs "skeletons". Products are characterized by high strength and bearing capacity, provide effective fastening parts of the structure and are produced up to 12 m long. Due to the fact that the overlap is in most cases it is recommended to do across in relation to the structure, i.e. Stop the ends on the long sides of the building (so that it is less than stopped), the specified length, once we are talking about the bath, in the overwhelming majority there will be enough.

With the characteristics of different wood breeds you can find in the following table.

Inter-storey overlap at the same time is the beams of the ceiling of the lower tier and lags of the floor of the upper floor.

Before using a venue for its intended purpose, it must be soaked with antiseptic and antipiren. These funds increase the stability of the material to rot and fire. Plots of beams based on walls from clay-concrete blocks should be squeezed and wrapped with rubberoid to ensure efficient protection against moisture impact - without such a wood processing, simply rotates and the design is extremely small.

Ruberoid attach in any suitable way. Fastening carry out a stapler or nails with a wide hat. Please note that the waterproofing is used for waterproofing, and the length of the insulation layer should be at least 25 cm, and the rubberoid should be 3 cm for the inner boundary of the wall.

Thermal insulation of overlaps separating the rooms with about the same temperature can not be done. The part of the design, dividing, for example, the steam room and the supervised room or heated floor and the attic will need to be insulated.

Waterproofing of floors is performed on areas, overlapping rooms with an increased humidity level: Waste, steam room, etc. Recommendations for the arrangement of the insulation, waterproofing and other protective layers were previously brought in the relevant material of our site. The instruction is dedicated to the ceiling device, but for wooden floors, the recommendations remain similar.

Important! When choosing a secting of a bar to arrange the overlap, consider, above all, the size of the span: the section of the beam must correspond to the minimum of the sixteenth part of the indicator mentioned. Additionally, you need to take into account the load. Recommendations for these nuances are shown in the table.

Deciding with the optimal breed of wood and the necessary operational and technical characteristics of the bar, proceed directly to the layout of the ceiling.

We offer the easiest option to accommodate the ceiling beams. Many specialists recommend pre-cut the openings for a bar in the blocks of the top row of the wall, but it is long and time consuming. It is much easier to do so as on the below image.

Here the beams are made of shot down boards, but the meaning remains the same. Elementary technology:

• beams with pre-selected characteristics and step are stacked on the top number of ceramzite-concrete blocks. The minimum beam is on the block - 50 mm. In practice, the indicator is 100-150 mm usually follow. The previously mentioned waterproofing is visible in the photo;
• the space between the beams is filled with ceramzite concrete blocks, pre-cut under the desired parameters. The height of full-size blocks in most cases is 190 mm. If the timber will have smaller parameters, the task is solved by segments from the unborn part block. If the block is lower than the used beam (which is extremely rare), the disadvantage is leveled with the help of volunteers or cutting the same clay-concrete block;
• next, the walls of the above-mentioned floor continue to be laid out in accordance with the standard technology.

The image shows intermediate beams intended for hardening the design. Used if necessary. Conclusions about the feasibility of their application are made at the stage of compiling project documentation. The parameters of the beams, with the exception of length, usually correspond to the characteristics of the main elements. Bonding is performed by a suitable way. In the example submitted, these are metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Detailed information on the further arrangement of overlaps you can get in the appropriate publication of our site. Information is focused on the ceiling, but its relevance in the case of wooden floors from the bar is preserved.

In a similar sequence, overlaps are made between other floors and the attic.

Video - Wooden inter-storey overlap

What to do next?

"Pasting box" is completed. What are the next steps?

1. First, you need to make a roof.
2. Secondly, it is necessary to perform stages associated with the internal arrangement of the bath.

Video - Bath of ceramzit concrete blocks

How is the bath from gas-silicate blocks with their own hands

The bath from gas-silicate blocks is going to do it quickly enough.

The construction of the bathhouse is always trying to reduce it, as it starts to him after the main one. Among the most inexpensive materials can be allocated: aerated concrete and gas-silicate blocks. If you recalculate estimates, the installation comes out almost cheaper frame construction. And if you do all the work with your own hands, then the bath will do it at all from 5 000 r. / M². About how the bath is built from gas-silicate blocks with their own hands, stages from the foundation to the roof we will tell our readers.

Why is it profitable to build from a gas silicate?

Gasilicate blocks have a porous texture.

They produce gas-silicate blocks from a mixture of materials: lime, plaster, cement and aluminum powder. They are made under greater pressure, and boost at temperatures up to 180 ° C.

Since gas particles remain in the material it has high thermal insulation indicators. It is not rarely used not only as the main building material and insulation. The density of various gas-silicate brands begins from 250 kg / m³. For the bath take the dense D500 brand with a density of up to 500 kg / m³. Among the main advantages of the bath material are important:

1. High heat resistance.
2. Ecology.
3. Not subject to rotting and infection with fungi.
4. Durable and easily cut.
5. It is permissible structure structure up to 3 floors.

1. Absorbs moisture and gives it for a long time.
2. Breaks from mechanical impact.
3. Durability is not verified.

With the right approach, build a bath from gas silicate blocks with your own hands, the more material is easy and can be cope with operations without additional help.

Installations of baths

The construction of a bath from gas-silicate blocks is easy to carry out their own hands. Machine by multiple sequential stages:

1. Planning and compiling estimates.
2. Installation of the foundation.
3. Laying of walls.
4. Installation of the roof.
5. Finish inside and facade.

Any of the steps should disassemble more.

Bath Planning

Bath plan from gas-silicate blocks.

Plan a bath from a gas silicate exactly as any other. We determine where it is better to place on the site, select the project. You can take a typical of the Internet, on many construction sites there is a calculator with which you can calculate the required amount of materials. For construction, with your own hands, a small bath is chosen, the correct form, for example, 3x3 or 4x4 m. It is easy to place a pair of 4 m², a 10-12 m² relaxation room, a pre-tribbon and shower.

At the planning stage, the decoration of the bath is thought out, since it will have to do it on both sides, there is no money.

It is not worth making a thick layer of thermal insulation, as gas-silicate blocks in one row hold the temperature of the 3rd row of brick masonry.

When the bath is planned, you can proceed to the purchase of materials and the installation of the foundation.

Installation of foundation

The ribbon foundation is optimally suitable for a bath from gas-silicate blocks.

The foundation under the bath from blocks is suitable or monolithic. Other species for material are not suitable, despite its low weight. Although the blocks are sufficiently dense and durable, but poorly withstand the load in the corners of the structure. Therefore, the baths from it are not built above one-story or with an attic.

To mount a ribbon foundation, it is necessary to mark the markup and proceed the trench to the depth below the fruit of the soil. A sand pillow is added to the bottom of 10-15 cm and tram. Then they perform formwork from non-edged board and bars. The formwork should rise above the soil at least 50 cm.

The design lay a reinforced ligament from fittings and knitting wire. Everything is poured concrete. To save concrete, you can make with your own hands using concrete mixer. To do this, you will need: cement, PGS or sand and crushed stone, water. Mix everything can be done manually, but more difficult. Foundation is flooded with layers, but work is better than one day. Further, the foundation is given to ripen. To do this, it is covered with cellophane and once a day, the openness is moistened. After 2 weeks, they open completely and allow to dry.

The monolithic foundation is poured with a single reinforced design. It will cost more, but even with a strong bunch of soil, the bath will stand reliably. In addition, you do not have to mount a separate foundation for the stove, as in the first case.

In any case, the height above the ground level should be at least 50-60 cm, as gas-silicate blocks absorb moisture and better raise them as high as possible above the ground.

After the foundation is freezing and it is possible to start climbing the walls.

It is possible to collect a box of gasosilicate blocks of large size in 1-2 weeks, even alone. The main thing to observe some subtleties:

1. The carriers of the quality of the blocks are good and according to the rules, it is enough to lay the wall at 38 cm, but our climate dictates its conditions. The bath must be warm therefore the optimal wall thickness of at least 53.5 - 59 cm.
2. Since the blocks are poorly transferred by moisture. The first 2-4 rows are recommended to lay red tempered bricks. It is more racks to moisture and the bath just longer.
3. Blocks are put in a chess order all the time checking the level of masonry leveling. Between itself fasten not cement, but a special adhesive composition. So the thermal insulation at the bath will be better. The seam thickness will be less. The glue composition is divorced according to the instructions on the bag for each manufacturer.
4. To increase the strength of the structure every 2-3 rows, a reinforced masonry mesh or a rod from steel cross-section is not less than 8 mm. Also come in places of future door and window openings.
5. The upper rows are enhanced by a special reinforced coupler from anchors and wire. Anchor also need to be mounted in places where Maurylalat will be attached. They will be binding to them. More details can be viewed in the photo.

Installation of roof

Blood make the simplest design.

The roof design for the bath from the blocks choose a simple duplex or single one. Single-table refund on the one hand to Maurylalat. The angle of inclination is small, so the roof will be better protected from the winds. The rubberoid is covered on top and the selected roof is stacked: slate, Ondulin, professional flooring. How to perform a row roof design, you can read in one of the previous articles.

Since the material of the walls is afraid of moisture, it is necessary to perform waterproofing the roof and insulate the ceilings. To do this, it is better to use a new membrane waterproofer, it will not give water to penetrate inside and releases steam without letting the condensate form.

Installation of external and interior decoration

The trim of the bath inside the linden clapboard will create a natural woody smell.

The bath box must be protected from the effects of steam and moisture, and not only from the inside, but also outside. For this, the first thing is necessary from the inside and on the outside pair and waterproofing. Attach the material to the cellular structure is difficult, so the lamp is needed. It is fixed to the walls with special dowels in gas silicate. For the wage used foil, membrane. From above on the crate, mounted lip, linden or aspen.

Warming the bath is better outside, the design of the ventilated facade. Selects the cake system: on the crate or on the cross crate. The second is more complicated, but cold bridges will not remain and the bath will quickly sleep. From above, the design is closed by siding or imitation of timber.

Communications Baths.

Floors can be performed by filler or wooden. In any case, it is necessary to lay them under the tilt and organize stock. Water should not be merged under the foundation, since in the winter it will fall on the blocks and frozen destroy them. It is better to construct a separate septicch of two wells.

Electric systems are carried out from the central following all safety rules. Since the material absorbs water well and gives it for a long time, all wires must be laid in a special corrugated tube. She will protect the hosts from closures and fires. All switches and sockets are installed outside the steam. The lamp in the steam room is closed by a special heat-resistant and hermetic flange.

Water is carried out from the central tube, from a well or well. In garden sites, you can leave a bath without water, before driving, they are spacing with buckets, in the old manner. For convenience, you can mount the summer shower, installing a barrel made of dark iron and withdrawing a shower into the washing compartment.

Build a bath from gas-silicate blocks with your hands with finishing and insulation, is not so cheap as it may seem at first glance. But observing all the rules will serve it no less than wooden. And the speed of assembly and a small shrinkage will give the opportunity to start using the bath immediately after the decoration. And the photo and video materials in this article will give a complete picture of the works, even novice builders.

We build a bath with your own hands from foam blocks - secrets of modern construction

As many people already know, the fastest and economical way to build a real Russian bath is its construction of foam blocks. This miracle material is made from environmentally friendly cellular concrete - durable, refractory and lightweight building material.

It produces from conventional quartz sand, with additives of water, cement and special foam, which, when hardening, leaves small air cavities. So, the construction of the bath with their own hands from foam block is quite a simple solution to your problems!

Bani construction

The only thing you need to take care before the start of construction is excellent vaporizoation and protection of bricks from water, because thanks to their porosity, foam concrete has not the highest moisture resistance. But we consider the phased construction of a foam block bath with your own hands in order.

Construction of the foundation under the bath box from foam block

As many people have already become clear from the above, a solid and powerful foundation for such a type of bath is not required - material for the construction of walls and partitions is too light. That is why you can easily limit yourself to a simple tape base for a bath with an ordinary sandstone.

Attention! We should not forget about the quality waterproofing of the foundation, which specialists recommend making mastic or ordinary rubberoid.

So, in order to correctly fill the foundation, you will need to dig up the kitty in the form of an unintently closed (rectangular) ribbon throughout the perimeter of the future building. The average depth is at least 60 cm, while the widths of 30 cm will be quite enough.

The next step - with the help of a level, pins and ropes, perform (and check) marking. To do this, you will be required at the corners and throughout the perimeter to stick the pins in such a way that the average distance between them does not exceed two meters. Then, stretch between all pins the rope and check the evenness of the location of the pins in the corners.

Now we proceed to the Armokarkas, which should be knit from the reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and the construction of the formwork shields, which is recruited from plywood or boards. After successful installation and fastening, the formwork is filled with concrete, and in the center of the foundation washed the receiver and sewer.

Do not forget to put the mesh on top of the resulting structure and on top of it to put a screed, thicker of about 4-5 cm. Now you just stay waterproofing and the foundation is ready.

We erect the wall

As mentioned earlier - the construction of the bath with their own hands from the foam block is made in a record short time: according to the reviews of the experienced dacities, this type of structures is calm in 2-3 weeks! And this is taking into account the fact that only one person will work. As for the brigade, the construction will go much faster.

According to experts, foam blocks for the construction of walls should be purchased by the density of the D700 and the M25 brand.

Attention! Pay special attention to the fact that the foam blocks should be put on the plastics, but on the edge. Each layer is mandatoryly checked by the level, both vertically and horizontally.

Let's start with the fact that the first row of blocks should be laid on a conventional sandy cement solution. What is the first row, this will turn out and the rest of the masonry (meaning the evenness of the walls).

That is why it is at this stage of work can not do without rubber hammer and level. Also, the rope will be useful to you, which will be stretched between the corners of the future bathhouse.

If there is a question how to build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands, not a garage or a subsidy, then starting from the second row, the blocks should be laid on a special glue. You will be able to find it without any problems in any construction store, and it will be divorced as a simple dry building mixture - water.

To prepare the mixture you will need a small container or an electric door with a wedge-nozzle, with which you in a few minutes will be able to qualitatively prepare adhesive mass.

Attention! It is not necessary to smear the glue into the rows of a bold layer - it will be enough for only a 0.5 cm solution, so that the block is smoothly lay down on the next row.

Without this glue, you can hardly have a normal bathhouse: if you judge the reviews, this substance does not require a preliminary setting or ripening period - it turns out that the design will have dense and strong walls that do not have butts between all design elements. And if the instruction on the installation of the bath will be fully observed, then you will erect such a building without any problems even alone.

It should also be taken into account that after every three rows of blocks, a layer of metal mesh should be passed between them - reinforcement will make it possible to largely increase the strength of the structure.

As for floors for door and window openings, they are made by filling the concrete and installation of formwork. In some cases, you can apply special challenges.

Vaporizoation of walls - how to do everything right

Before you begin to erect your bathhouse, you should seriously think about how the walls from the all-hard couple will be insulated. If you judge by world experience, then it is much more expedient with the help of polymer countersight membranes, which should be installed in the remaining gap between the wall and facing.

Also, I would like to note that for foam blocks no need to use special fasteners, which are applicable to other types of walls (moths, screws, dowels, nails, etc.). In other words, you will need conventional locks for walls from foam blocks, because the porous structure of the material to some extent even complicates finishing works.

But as for hidden wiring - in the foam concrete wall it is much easier to do, rather than in the same brick or concrete, and at the same time additional insulation will not even need! As for window openings, doors and overlaps, they do not differ (in comparison with other types of buildings).

Features of the construction of the roof

If you consider many projects, it immediately becomes clear that the most optimal option for the bath is a bartal rafting roof.

You can build it according to the following scheme:

• Let's start with the fact that the longitudinal walls will lay Mauerlat, and the timber must be at least 18 cm thick. It is attached to special anchor bolts;
• On the ground, we proceed to the assembly of the chapel of the rafter. To do this, take a pair of boards and connect them to the edges in such a way that the "scissors" bonded with each other nails. Free edges should be put on the base and pick up a suitable bias of the roof - further gripe the edges between themselves with a transverse bar. The whole obtained design is reliably scrolled by self-drawing, in order to avoid a disturbance of the angle;
• Next, the 15x50 cm beams should be attached to the prepaid pattern and mark the pencil, where exactly the angle should be cut;
• After all above the designated procedures, it is safe to start cutting out the rafted, fastening them with self-draws, and in crossbar places, it is screwed from 3 to 5 screws for strength;
• Now, raise the finished frame of the rafted on the roof and install. Connections with Mauerlat should be noted by writing, metal brackets or lining;
• Similarly, we make the next frame of the rafters and install in place. After that, between the frames we stretch the cord, fix the farm with the help of the propellers and put them at an angle;
• By the same scheme, we set all frames and secure them on the roof in a 50 cm increments, checking the distance by the usual cord;
• Next, we prepare the crate - for this we will need 10x40 cm boards, which you can easily fix on rafters with nails or self-draws. And the step should be done so that the insulation does not fail between the boards;
• Now we proceed to the manufacture of a black ceiling of the bath - we take 25 mm boards (thick) and fix them between the rafters. On top of them, foam foam (approximately19 cm thick) and cover the cleaning floor of the attic on top of it. Do not forget to equip ventilation in the ceiling by making two small holes;
• The final stage - we put the roofing material on the roof and nail the skate detail. Do not forget about the galvanized collar, which is located around the chimney.

Internal and external finish

So, here we have come to the final step of our work, namely, to the external and interior decoration of the structure. If it does not produce it, the foam block walls will quickly lose their attractive appearance and preserve even less than 10 years!

If you start with an exterior finish, then you just have a bunch of options - siding, haouseblocks and even decorative plaster, which will create the effect of fur coats. But the most acceptable option for this kind of bath is mounted ventilated facades. It is thanks to them that you can withdraw an oversuprint of moisture from the walls into the atmosphere without any obstacles, thereby protecting the facade from destruction.

As for the interior decoration, it all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities: the walls can be painted with polymer paint, lining with ceramic tiles or tinted with a tree (see Also the article "Bath insulation from the inside: the most common technologies").

Output

We hope now it became clear to you how to build a box of foam block with your own hands. In the photo you will see some stages of manufactured work, which are more complex in performance. Remember that the price of this type of buildings is quite small (even taking into account the external and interior decoration), so almost every resident of Russia can afford such a bathhouse without problems.

Video This article will highlight all the questions related to this topic in more detail. Successes in your endeavors!

Build a bath from aerated concrete, ceramzite-concrete, gas-silicate or arbite blocks is cheaper and more quickly faster than to make a brick or cutting masonry. But, the first and main stage will be the development of the project, taking into account all the wishes of the owners and the possibilities of the material.

Ceramzit concrete blocks are often used to build a bath. Cheap and durable material withstands up to 50-75 frost cycles, convenient in installation, as it is very light, does not require capital foundation. All the box can be collected with your own hands and without having experience in construction work.

The minus is the straightness of the design (it is impossible to create rooms with faded bends) and high hygroscopicity. But but the low heat capacity holds the heat for quite a long time, and the ecological composition of the material does not cause any harm to health when exposed to high temperatures.

Projects baths from the blocks with their own hands using a ceramzite concrete on the photo further.

When erected, the design will look like this.

In the completed embodiment, depending on the type of external facing as follows.

Plan of building a ceramzite concrete box with an area of \u200b\u200b5x5 m.

Draft bath from aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a cellular concrete with uniformly distributed spherical pores (1-3 mm). The material is sufficiently resistant to mechanical loads and temperature differences, not affected by microorganisms. Due to the low weight, it easily creates the necessary structures (4x4, 6x6 and below).

Draft baths from the blocks of aerated concrete.

Such a hardness bath will not give up a brick structure or brusch, but it will cost at least half cheaper. The gas-block is a natural material and when heated does not evaporate toxins. The box is not terrible mold, putrid processes and the life of rodents. All that is needed, good waterproofing, as the material is very hygroscopic (quickly absorbs moisture and evaporates it for a long time).

The bath itself may be single or two-storey, since the density of aerated concrete (350-750 kg \\ m 3) allows you to withstand overlaps with sufficient weight load. Thermal insulation of the roof in this case wins, the heat-saving functions of aerated concrete blocks are very high, but still the upper part of the box must be enhanced. The facade is to have a ventilated design.

As you can build a bath 6x6 m from a fuel-concrete with a terrace, an example below.

Plan of Building Baths from Gasilicata

Gasilicat is a cellular concrete, hardened in the autoclave. Each block consists of aluminum powder, water, cement, plaster, lime, in some cases - additives, at the discretion of the manufacturer.

The material refractory, frost-resistant, is not afraid of mechanical damage, rotary processes, quickly and easily mounted, as it has a low weight. It has good sound insulation.

The bath from a gas silicate can be built rather quickly and with their own hands and without special skills. The project scheme, as shown below, can be considered universal. Supplements, at the discretion of the owners.

The appearance of the bath from gas-silicate blocks will have such a photo below.

But, of course, there is also an arbolit - enough inexpensive and practical material. Projects for such facilities are not much different from the above, but the cheapness and strength of the blocks make it indispensable in the budget buildings of the bath.

If you make efforts and create a project properly, everything looks just perfect.

Arbolic blocks are well held heat, quickly warmed, are not susceptible to rotting. Sturdy and safe for human health. The degree of fragility of them is much lower than that of the ceramzite concrete, and noise insulation is higher at times.

In the decoration of the walls, both from the inside and outside the waterproofing should be given.

In general, to build a bath from blocks of any consistency is much more profitable in the material plan: the box details themselves will cost not so expensive, it is possible to develop a project yourself, it is not necessary to attract a specialized brigade of workers and the special equipment and time to build the construction will go much less.

Dacha and country house owners do not present holidays without bath procedures. After completing the construction of the house, the owners begin to the bathhouse equipment. The bath was traditionally built in the form of a church, but the increased price of wood makes it look for alternative options. Use a proven solution - a bath from blocks! It is easy to build on its own from an inexpensive, harmless, lung and simple in the material laying. Consider the properties, characteristics of block products, the technology of building from them.

How to build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands

About the benefits of bath procedures

Visiting the bath is a tradition that most people stick. The optimal combination of moisture and temperature, which is achieved only in a properly built and equipped bath, has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular, respiratory, nervous system, as well as the musculoskeletal system. It has been proven that the skin is rejuvenated after water procedures, a state of cheerfulness, freshness, strength comes. The use of safe building materials for the construction of the bath and the proper performance of construction work will provide a positive effect on health.

Bath do it yourself from blocks - material features

Standard Bath Planning provides a pre-banker, steam room and washing. The building is erected on the capital foundation, it is reliably insulated.

Different building materials are used to build walls:

• frame panels. With external attractiveness, insulated sandwich panels do not miss steam. In the room condensate condensate, causing accelerated rotting;
• wooden timber or logs. This is a traditional material that provides comfortable conditions. However, he is expensive and is subject to destruction at high humidity;
• brick. Different with durability and durability. The cost of building a brick bath is quite high, as brick walls need a massive foundation;
• concrete blocks. Have a cellular structure. They are distinguished by a small mass, increased volume, vapor permeability, increased heat insulating characteristics, as well as an affordable price.

Block drawing

Consider the construction of the bath from the blocks in more detail.

Features of block building materials

The main feature of the material is uniformly distributed inside the concrete array of air cells.

Porous structure affects the characteristics:

• gigroscopicity. Unprotected material, actively absorbing moisture, needs effective external and internal waterproofing. When freezing moisture crystallizes, increasing volume. This may cause cracks;
• parry permeability. Due to the increased concentration of air cells and the uniform distribution of them in the array, the building material is capable of missing excess steam, supporting a comfortable level of humidity in the bathroom;
• thermal conductivity. Block material has elevated heat-saving characteristics. With qualitatively performed heat insulation, it supports a comfortable temperature;
• soundproofing. Thanks to the numerous airpath, which occupies more than half the volume of the product, the block building material prevents the penetration of external noise into the room.

Let us dwell on the benefits of block bath.

Advantages of blocks

Polystyrene foam blocks for ban

Built from porous building materials, block bath has its advantages:

• not subject to shrinkage in contrast to log builds;
• can be operated immediately after the completion of construction measures;
• quickly built, due to the increased product size;
• does not require a powerful foundation due to the small weight of the building material;
• can be erected on their own without any assistance;
• requires small financial costs compared to the bar and brick.

Maintaining favorable conditions also contributes:

• bacteriological purity. The composition and structure of the material do not allow to develop bacteria, microorganisms and mold;
• ecology. Concrete blocks do not have a negative impact on the health of others, as there are no harmful impurities in the building material.

Block material is different:

• increased thermal insulation characteristics;
• resistant to the effect of negative temperature;
• resistance to heating;
• long service life;
• increased margin of strength;
• good workability.

Building Blocks for Bath

Increased dimensions of block material and low weight allow you to perform work without attracting hired workers. Thanks to the listed advantages, many make a decision to build a bath from blocks with their own hands.

Weak sides of blocks

Mesh material has a number of flaws:

• needs reliable waterproofing protection that prevents the penetration of moisture into an array;
• different with reduced environmental cleanliness in comparison with natural wood.

Despite the weaknesses of the block building material, it is preferred with the lack of funds and the absence of the opportunity to use the services of professional builders.

Varieties of material for block bath

You can build a bath from blocks with your own hands using various types of building materials:

Types of building blocks blocks

Deciding on the choice of blocks for the construction of the bath, read their characteristics, analyze the operational properties. Focusing on the coefficient of thermal conductivity, you can give preference to a gas concrete.

We are going to build a bath from blocks with your own hands - work technology

The construction process involves the following work:

1. Preparatory activities.
2. Construction of the foundation.
3. Construction box.
4. Food roofing.
5. Carrying out facing work.

Consider in detail the features of each stage.

Preparatory work

Preparing for the upcoming construction and determined with the choice of building materials, it is necessary to fulfill the following activities:

At the preparatory stage, it is important to consider finishing options and decide on the type of foundation.

Building foundation

For light gas blocks, a small-breeding belt base is suitable.

When it is built, observe the specified sequence of actions.:

1. Prepare a platform.
2. Make marking.
3. Drop the trench to a depth of 0.6 m.
4. Mount the formwork.
5. Put a sand-chicken pillow in the pit.
6. Seal the bench, watering water.
7. Install the reinforcement frame in the veil.
8. Prepare a concrete mix.
9. Reconfigure the foundation in one reception.

Do not expose the foundation to loads until the final froze of the concrete. After 4 weeks, dismount the formwork and waterproof the surface of the base.

Ribbon foundation for baths from gas silicate blocks

How to build from Banch blocks - wall construction

Building a box - a responsible operation with which you can cope on your own:

1. Check the horizontal of the base.
2. Place angular blocks.
3. Tension the cord, lay the first row on the cement solution.
4. Make a stroke cutting groove for fittings.
5. Remove the garbage, put steel rods.
6. Prepare the glue composition and apply to the surface.
7. Place the next level of masonry.

Carrying up, producing reinforcement with a gap in 4 rows. Install Mauerlat for fastening the roofing design.

Installation of roof and floor covering

Sequence of roof installation:

Floor arrangement process:

1. Plan the ground inside the foundation.
2. Put the pillow from the sand, compact it.
3. Pit Waterproofing layer.
4. Pour the grains and pour the screed.

When performing a screed, provide a bias for water drain.

Block Bath Finish

Work on finishing a bathroom provides for:

• high-quality internal cladding;
• outdoor finish.

The finishing activities indoors require fastening of the crates, the installation of heat-insulating material, as well as protection with a vapor barrier membrane.

Bath finishes made of ceramzite concrete blocks

There are various options for interior decoration, which is attached to a warmed and vaporized frame:

• wooden lining. It will saturate the room with a unique aroma during bath procedures;
• salt blocks. This is an original finish option that has a beneficial effect on respiratory organs.

Outdoor finishing activities include:

1. Installation of external waterproofing.
2. Fastening thermal insulation ventilated panels.
3. Installation of finishing finish.

Selecting finishing material individually, taking into account financial capabilities and personal preferences.

Let's sum up

Having an idea how to build a bath from blocks, finally decide on the choice of material, read the technology in detail. It is important to accommodately approach the development of the project and to promptly purchase building materials in the required quantity. We need patience, basic construction skills, and independently built premises will repeatedly delight during rest.