Homemade kitchen from chipboard. How to make a kitchen set: drawing and scheme with your own hands. Lower cabinet with swing facades

Remember sacramental: "It is shoes that makes a woman woman"? It is thoroughly paraphrasing, we can say: it is the kitchen of any size that is the heart of any apartment. The cozy atmosphere and fragrant odors make it the center of attraction of the whole family. But only if cleanliness reigns there, and the situation is pleased with its aesthetics and functionality. This in this case goes about the kitchen headset and the importance initially make the drawing and placement of furniture.

Kitchen headset with their own hands

It would seem that it is easier to go to the store and choose what you like. BUT! What I like, can cost, like a villa in Spain, or categorically refuses to enter your. There is an option "Furniture to order". But it is not always available due to lack of money resources, as well as decent masters in the district. Truth lies on the surface: make the kitchen set with their own hands.

The motto "The eyes are afraid - the hands do" how it is impossible to suit this situation better. If you once in school lessons in school you managed to make at least one decent stool, you can safely take the case. The main thing is to armarate the patience, remember the accuracy and observe a simple algorithm that you will find in this article. About modular kitchens in economy class can be read by clicking on.

Creating a sketch

Independent manufacture

Topics. Who with a computer on "you" remains to make a drawing with your own hands. The most elementary set of tools will be required: pencil, line and watman sheet.

Removing measure

This stage is needed both for self and virtual sketch. With its manufacture, you need to stick to a certain scale. Preference is worth 1:10.

Measure the main parameters of the room, consider not.
Draw the perimeter of the kitchen. Specify the exact dimensions of the walls and simpleness, and this should be done at different points of the room: the ceiling itself and on the floor. Possible discrepancies to celebrate on the sketch. This will help further avoid problems with placement and skewers. Lower sizes are taken as the basis, take into account the thickness or other material.
The location of engineering communications is necessarily noted: gas, electricity. Specify and ventilation holes.
Denote door and window openings.

The optimal unit of measurement is 1 mm.

With what sizes do not do it:

Length and width of the room.
The distance from the floor to the ceiling is, on the floor to the windowsill, on the floor to the ventilation hole, between the walls, from the angle to the window, between the wall and various pipes (gas, plumbing, etc.).

Accommodation of household appliances

One of the important stages when creating a sketch is a competent placement of large household appliances: plates and ovens, refrigerators, dishwasher, washing machines ,.

It is necessary to observe a number of immutable rules. The refrigerator should not be located next to the stove, otherwise it can fail the term before him. Another unwanted neighborhood is a stove and washing. They must be placed not closer to the half-meter from each other. The spray of water can not only negatively affect the state of the plate, but also to please the outlet, so it is worth considering the option with. And this is already threatens with a short circuit and failure of expensive kitchen appliances.

How to locate furniture

First of all, it is necessary to determine the placement in the space of kitchen furniture: in one or two lines, in the form of the letter P or g, or will be taken as the basis of the peninsular or island option. If there is a lack of free space, you can choose without any problems, but you need to choose exactly. allow you to save space to maximize.

Kitchen area allows you to put a table, stools or chairs in it? It is necessary to take place for this space, taking into account the possibility of comfortable pushing chairs.

Sections (modules)

The kitchen set is a design consisting of sections:

upper row sections;
section of the lower row;
separate modules.

The top row is mounted cabinets. Their parameters depend on the size of the kitchen. The height of the cabinets can vary from 300-400 mm to a meter. The depth of them corresponds to the size of drying for the dishes and is equal to the standard 300 mm
The parameters of the lower section must be comfortable to a person who is most often in the kitchen, correspond to its growth. As a rule, it is 850 mm. Other ergonomic requirements are applicable for a person's non-standard sizes. You can move from towards their increase. In this case, it is better to choose, as it is easy to place on a comfortable level for a person.

The depth of the lower section corresponds to the size of the table top. As a rule, it is equal to 600 mm, respectively, the depth of cabinets is 50 mm less. The width of the section affects the choice of fittings. How to choose a countertop for the kitchen can be found in this.

Hood

From the size of the suspended hood, the width of the upper section depends on the scenery or under the shelves. The minimum distance from the exhaust section to the electric stove is 700 mm, to a gas stove - 100 mm more.

Calculation of the sizes of the kitchen cabinet (depth, width, height)

When calculating the size of kitchen cabinets, the following nuances should be taken into account. The most ergonomic layout of the table top is not more than 100-110 mm.

For a person, more impressive growth can be added from a tet of millimeters. The minimum allowable height of the lower shelf is about 450 - 500 mm. Otherwise, access to the entire surface of the countertop will be difficult. Standard height of the lower section (floor cabinets) - 850-900 mm. This size corresponds to the standard settings of household appliances, which is important to consider when you create.

The wardrobe width can be from 20 to 90 cm, depending on the chosen project. Depth - 450-550 mm.

The main landmark of the height of the lockers is the height of the window opening.

Browse the video instruction how to make the kitchen with your own hands:

How to produce measurements

One of the main parameters taken into account when constructing kitchen cabinets is the minimum size in length. An increase in this parameter may lead to the fact that the finished product may not fit on the place intended for it. It is best to take another 10 mm from the resulting minimum size. This will help to avoid unpleasant inconsistencies.

It is necessary to check the correspondence of the direct angles by 90 degrees. When identifying large discrepancies in the project, this nuance must be taken into account. You can correct the situation, for example, using a firmware bar.

When measuring measurements, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the panels and doors on the cabinets. The irregularity of the walls can be a hindrance when the cabinets shoulder. In this case, the output will be an increase in the gap between the boxes.

Cutting materials on the project

This operation can, of course, produce independently, observing the limit accuracy. But this is quite a big risk. Even when complying with all the necessary rules and precautionary measures, something can go wrong, and the furniture will be unsuitable for use. Therefore, the cutting plates are better to order in a specialized furniture workshop for quite imputed money. So it will still be rather and will not lead to unnecessary spending.

Fastener

On the facades there are places for fasteners and holes are done. All items must be marked. In the process of assembly, it is possible immediately after connecting horizontal and vertical surfaces to insert all drawers and shelves into the cabinet. Installation of facades is carried out at the very end. In this case, the design should lie on the floor. Doors are fixed in open state.

Installation of the lower section is regulated by level to obtain a impeccable horizontal surface. The tabletop is attached to the lower section by self-draws. After that, the holes for washing and the stove are done.

The upper section is inspired by no lower than 600 mm from the table top. On the wall it is necessary to attach the mounting bus. When inspired, it is necessary to level the cabinets in all directions.

How to finish the kitchen, visual instructions:

Decorating the facade of the cabinet in the kitchen

To give an attractive appearance, a ready-made kitchen headset can use such simple techniques like painting, varnishing, painting or. In addition, individual elements of the headset can be decorated with a special film and cloth. All the necessary consumables in large numbers are present on the shelves of furniture and artistic stores. So, the kitchen of dreams is quite real and completely inexpensive.

If you look at the kitchen headset market, you can find a huge number of original design solutions that conquer the hearts of many owners. However, prices for such works of designer thought are translated. Under such circumstances, the will of the unplends have to think about alternatives. Some decide to make a kitchen headset with their own hands. For this, there are also kitchen accessories, and building material, and the tool - in general, everything. And, as practice shows, the homemade kitchen headset is not inferior to the purchase, especially in quality. And it is not even taking into account the price, because it is more profitable to make the headset in the kitchen. If you decide to make such a feat, you will have to work well enough not only with your hands, but also your head.

Methods of manufacture headset

There are several directions, following which you can implement your plans. For example, in order to prepare all the necessary details, you can contact a specialized company that provides cutting and incoming services. This is a good option, since the size of the kitchen headset you choose yourself.

Another option is to acquire ready-made details. It can be said that this is the easiest option. But in this case, your kitchen set will be standard. There is another solution that is in full manufacture headset for the kitchen with your own hands, ranging from measurements, cutting and ending with the assembly.

Simplicity and design functionality

If you prefer the last option and want to do all the work yourself, then in this case you should consider the design headset. Typically, the best to choose a simple, functional and comfortable design. A classic kitchen is suitable for this category, the cabinets of which have retractable boxes and swing doors. This design has a lot of advantages. Here is some of them:

Modular assembly is possible. In this case, each element is designed and is collected separately.
Such a headset will be a suitable solution for both large and small cuisine.
There are a large number of building materials that allow you to implement such a project.
This furniture is durable, practical, spacious and convenient.
Even the unprofessional joiner will be able to create such a design.
In the classic kitchen you do not have to work with curvature lines, which makes it easier to work.
Simple mechanisms are used.
You can easily choose suitable accessories, facades and countertops.

Among other things, such a kitchen set can, if necessary, can be converted or upgraded, as you will personally know the location of each bolt!

What to do?

The next preparatory stage is the choice of the appropriate material. In general, kitchen headsets are made from different materials, here everything will depend only on your financial opportunities and wishes.

Array of wood. This material is the most expensive, but also the most durable and durable.
Stained MDF. Availability in price. It has excellent performance.
Laminated chipboard. One of the cheapest materials that enjoys the greatest demand, even in Italian masters!
Postforming. Post-forming plates are wear-resistant and practical material. What is the most interesting, you can choose any color and surface texture.
Chipboard without coating. It is used to make individual elements of the kitchen headset, for example, for the sidewalls and the rear wall.

Choosing the material, it is worth viewing ready-made kitchen headsets in furniture stores. This will make it possible to imagine what furniture from one or another material will work.

Eyes are afraid, and the hands do: proceed to measurements

Making a kitchen headset begins with measurements. At first it is necessary to decide what type of headsets will be. In fact, the kitchen headset can be divided into two types: angular and straight. As for direct kitchens, it is a bit easier here. Multiple bedside tables and suspended lockers will be located along one wall. In some cases, the headset is placed in parallel to each other on two walls. Here measurements are quite simple. It is necessary to measure the length of the wall.

When measurements, it is important to make measurements with a tape measure in several places, for example, at an altitude of 200 mm from the floor, at the chest level and under the ceiling. This is due to the fact that small deviations may be observed due to the curvature of the walls.

As practice shows, the discrepancy between such measurements can be up to three to four centimeters. Using modern building materials, these discrepancies can be leveled. Start measurements when old furniture is already dismantled, then you will have free access to the wall.

When measurements often have to deal with difficulties. For example, gas or water pipes can be placed on the walls - all this will need to be considered when installing the kitchen, cutting the appropriate holes. Make it easier with electric jigsaw. As for the sink, it is usually for her the cabinets goes without the rear wall, since in this place there is a junction of sewage and water pipes. The main rigidity of the cabinet is achieved due to metallic corners.

Among other things, it is important to consider in measurements. The presence of a gas stove. Stripping from measurements, it will be necessary to make appropriate corrections in the configuration of the lockers and the cabinets. After all, gas pipes will be approached precisely to the gas stove. This is especially true when you want to make a single countertop.

The extractor is closed by a specially made cabinet. This will require a special cutout in the back panel of the cabinet. As for the measurements of the corner kitchen, the whole process occurs in the same principle.

Little Production of Big Details

Where you can feel complete freedom, so this is when choosing a colors and design of a kitchen headset. You should consider and make a form-shaped "cutting card" on the finished drawing. To prevent errors and make the right order of individual items or cut them yourself, it is important to know about several nuances of cutting according to the drawing. This will help the following scheme:

This will look like a diagram of a standard attached cabinet:

Horizontal.
Side wall or side.
Shelf.
Back wall.

One of the features of the horizontal lies in its size. Based on the diagram, the horizontal is located between the side walls and is connected using confirm screws. Accordingly, in detail you will need to make suitable holes. Here, for example, holes in the side workpiece:

When measurements of each detail, it is important to consider any nuance, otherwise the cutting process will be incorrect. In most cases, cabinets are made standard size. The width is multiple 100 or 50. Therefore, the width can be:

250 mm.
300 mm.
400 mm.
800 mm, etc.

It is important to take into account the chipboard thickness, the material is used 16 mm thick for the housing. Accordingly, the 800 mm wide width horizon is 768 mm. This is due to the fact that on both sides of 16 mm will take the side wall, it turns out:

768 mm + 32 mm \u003d 800 mm

But these measurements for cases when you make standard kitchen. Today you can not adhere to standards and make the size of the cabinets at their discretion.

As an exception, you should mention the wardrobe drying for dishes. It is manufactured by one standard. Although today you can make this element under the order.

If we talk about the shelves, then there are also some subtleties that are important to consider when measuring. The shelf can be attached by two methods: tightly or put on special police holders. In the first case, the size of the shelf will be identical to the width of the horizontal. In the second case, the size of the shelf must be 3 mm less for its free installation.

Well, the rear wall also needs a separate attention. It is made from DVP. The area of \u200b\u200bthe back wall should be slightly smaller than the entire case. For example, if the dimensions came out 700 × 600 mm, then the rear wall will be 695 × 595 mm. Why? There are two reasons for it:

If the back wall appears for the envelope of the case, it will interfere with the dense adjacent of the modules.
When cutting out DVP "plays" on the machine, so an error may be formed in a large side of several millimeters.

The principle of measuring tables and Tumb is practically different. There is one nuance that concerns accessories when it is a complex or design of the finished module is also complicated. In this case, you most likely need help of specialists. The Tumba scheme may be such a plan:

Give the billets finished species

When all the blanks are cut, not yet time for assembly. It is important to conduct a number of preparatory work in which the edge is included. What it is? This is one of the key elements of the finish of each workpiece that securely protects the edges from penetration into the billet of moisture, chemistry and other liquids. Also, the edge protects against chips and other mechanical damage.

Thus, each end on the kitchen headset must be processed by a special edge. There are several varieties. But if it comes to practicality and durability, it is best to use the edge of plastic ..

If this stage of work is complicated for you, then contact professionals for help!

When buying the edge, pick up the corresponding body color. Until the installation, the edge should be stored in a dry place, since it is treated with a special glue, which is melted under the influence of temperature. Its gluing is performed using a household iron. In no case can not use the hairdryer, due to the unstable flow of temperature. And in general, the hair dryer will not stand the duration of the edge gluing period.

Now we will consistently look at how to glue the edge with the help of an iron with your own hands.

So, you will need to work:

Iron.
Two pieces of fabric.
Small file.
Stationery knife.
Edge.

First of all, configure the thermostat on the iron to the middle mode.
The workpiece can be put on the table horizontally, ending up or resting one end to the wall. Next, with a reserve in two or three centimeters, cut the edge and attach it to the end.
The first piece of fabric turn several times. Through it, you should heat the edge. This technique will allow preventing the edge overheating and prevent its damage. Accordingly, the iron will be protected from random hitting the glue.
Heat it is necessary for a few seconds. After heating, the edge is pressed with another piece of fabric, it remains only to wait for its cooling.
As mentioned above, the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, and the edge has an average of 20-23 mm. For this reason, after gluing, the protruding residues should be trimmed with a stationery knife.
At the final stage, the interface and edges are treated with a file. Thanks to such an easy operation, the angle will not work too sharp.

Here in such a sequence and the edge is glued.

To work you will need:

hacksaw,
a hammer,
electrolake,
electrolovik,
recess
level,
line
roulette,
clamp,
workbench or reliable table
screwdriver
screwdriver,
vice
conductor for the manufacture of holes for the wanks,
fomka
sandpaper,
set of supules and files,
construction and stationery knife,
set of drills and electric drills,
pliers,
protective glasses and gloves,
bathrobe.

If you can, then use the laser level to measure. He will save you from errors that are detected, as a rule, at the end of the work!

Build the bottom of the kitchen headset

Before starting the assembly, all the details must be sorted. Next, postpone the details that will be required first. If you have decided to collect the Tumba, you will need the following details: side wall - 2 pieces, stand - 2 pieces, rear wall - 1 piece and bottom - 1 piece. For this principle, other elements of furniture are sorted.

Every detail must be installed in stages. For example, the mounting holes can be performed in advance or directly at the time of assembly. There are no conventions and rules here. In this work, accuracy is important otherwise it is very easy to damage the chipboard. In each detail should exactly match all the holes. You can start the assembly from the box. It is equipped with roller guides that are fixed from two outer sides of the boxes on the sides. Then the whole box is going. The holes from the edge should be 7 cm. After, holes are made for the power holders. Connect two racks and bottom, and after screw the upper ribs, which will later be attached a countertop.

At this stage, check the box diagonal of the box. It should be equal on both sides.

Now the rear wall mounting time. As already mentioned, its size will be less than the width and height of the box, respectively, for five millimeters. For the start, the Fiberboard is nourished to the long wall. Checked diagonal. Corrects if necessary. Fixed finally several nails. The pitch of nails can be 100 mm. If you want to make a stronger fixation, then use screws. If the cabinet stands on the legs, you should turn over the tube upside down and fasten them. Install the box in place and the cabinet is completely ready! According to such a system, the assembly of all other elements of the lower part of the kitchen headset occurs.

Collect the bedside tables gradually so as not to zoom out the kitchen.

At the final stage, it remains to mount the worktop. It can be solid or consist of several parts. In the latter case, special connections should be used for its docking.

According to such a principle, the upper part is collected, which consists of lockers and penalties. The only difference is that the cabinets will need to screw the fasteners for hanging.

Installation of upper cabinets

When the entire assembly is completed, it remains to be installed in place. To install the top of the kitchen headset you will need:

drill / perforator,
long level
roulette,
line
screwdriver
a hammer,
clamp,
wrench.

There are several options for hanging cabinets. For example, you can mount the mounting bar on the wall. Similar - screws on the cabinet. Immediately before fixing the bar, it must be checked for evenness. It will also be necessary to use intersection ties. They are used to connect modules among themselves.

So, the installation process will occur in the following order:

The hook is mounted on the middle position.
So that the hook clinks behind the mounting bus on the inside of the side walls of the cabinet to several millimeters should be outset the rear wall of the cabinet.
After, measurements are made under the holes on the wall for mounted tires. When calculating the height, decide whether the cabinet will go online or a mustache with a kitchen apron.
The mounting bus in all cases will be below the top edge of the cabinet.
In order not to miss, you can pre-apply the cabinet to the wall at its future location. The assistant can put the appropriate mark on the wall.
Using the level on the wall, read the smooth horizontal strip, which will point to the top edge of the cabinet. It is not recommended to take measurements from the floor. There is probability of irregularities.
At this stage, mark the place of drilling.
Insert a dowel into the hole.
Using fasteners, fix the mounting bus.
Now you can hang the cabinet.
With the help of the level, check the evenness of cabinets with each other, if necessary, using screws, adjust to the level.
Turn the clamp all cabinets with each other, ranging from the corner. Between the clamp and the cabinet insert wooden or cardboard linings.
Next, through drill holes between cabinets for intercreational screeds.
To avoid chips, hold the wooden bar at the drill exit place.
Intersection ties are pulled by all cabinets.
In conclusion, install the facades in place using special screws and loops.

In the process of performing this work, follow safety rules. This will allow you not to get injuries!

Simple method of manufacturing a new kitchen headset

There is the easiest option of making new furniture for the kitchen. If you are satisfied with your old furniture, then it can be taken as the basis for a new kitchen. Make it very simple:

First, disassemble the old furniture on the part. Remember what details were used in which structures.
Clean the old surface with emery paper. Surrive dust well and "give a feeling" every element.
Now remove all the measurements from the door, facades, sidewalls and shelves. These sizes should be transferred to new billets.
As a result, you can cut a sheet of chipboard on the necessary details of the future kitchen.
Then it remains only to mount all parts of the instructions described above, install new fittings, and you can start using a new kitchen.

To finally give your preference to this option, it is advisable to think several times: whether to like the present design to you, whether it is necessary to change anything in height or width and so on. In the course of the sizes, you will still have the ability to correct something.

As can be seen, it is the easiest and most primitive method of manufacturing a kitchen headset with your own hands. In fact, the kitchen will have the same format and size, that's just in the foreground and there will be absolutely new facades and fittings. This option is preferable for those who have limited resources and cannot buy a new headset, if there is no time or desire to develop a project from scratch.

So, make a kitchen set perfectly forces to everyone. The most important thing is not to stay on the floor. Leave your comments at the end of this article and share your personal experience!

Video

Here is the process of assembling the kitchen headset, performed by professional masters:

Photo

I will try to tell about how I did a simple kitchen furniture with my own hands. Let's start ...

The client wanted such a kitchen

Those. Total need to make 3 mounted cabinets, washing and wardrobe with drawers and work surface.

Built 3D models, drawings and cutting to the baseman. I advise everyone very much. When drawing out such standard things, an indispensable complex!

Cabinet number 1 - worker

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs
Horizontal 1100x510 - 1 pc
Horizontal 1068x150 - 2 pcs
Vertical 688x510 - 1 pc
1100x100 base bar - 1 pc
Side Bolder 500x80 - 6 pcs
Rear wall drawer 310x80 - 6 pcs
Side Bolder 500x195 - 2 pcs
Rear wall drawer 310x195 - 2 pcs

Cabinet number 2 - washing

When assembling, transverse strips were deployed on 90Gradus and shifted to the wall and doors, respectively.

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 800x510 - 1pc.
Horizontal 768x150 - 1pc.
The base bar is 800x100 - 1pc.
Horizontal 768x80 - 1pc.

Cabinet number 3 - big attached

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 768x385 - 2pcs.

Cabinet №4 and №5 - Small attached

We will produce 2 identical mounted cabinets. It would be better to do one by 400, and the other is 700 to withstand the line with the bottom cabinets, but decided to do so

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2pcs.
Horizontal 518x385 - 2pcs.

Facades will be purchased, ready. Therefore, they are not in the lists of panels in the schemes.

148x386 3pcs.
257x386 1pc.
299x706 1pc.
405x706 1pc.
715x396 2pcs.
396x796 1pc.
396x546 2pc.

The facades of the upper boxes will be with plug-in glasses.

But with furniture facades for small drawers - flew a bit. Toli where in the order I did not indicate, some who took the order, or at the factory - somewhere, someone invaded everything. As a result, that's what I got

On the lower facade there were two horizontal milling. And it was necessary to do the ODU on the lower facade at the bottom, one on the top facade - at the top. The first major coast of the project - now I will know to the future.

Cutting plates chipboard

Cutting chipboard ordered where I bought the chipboard itself.

DSP size laminated - 2440x1830

Here is an exemplary cut. Check.

I must say, we bated this time terrible. We will hide and mill :)

In addition to blanks with large chips, such instances came across.

It happens that or does not finish the part or will not drink the same size, or sip with the wrong direction of texture. Therefore, when he brought home chipboard, checked the size of every detail, glued to each piece of paper tape and wrote the size of the part on it. That's like this.

This then helps faster find the desired detail.

Scotch I try to glue the part to the part, where the smallest number of chips. This will then help correctly install the item in the product, to hide from the eyes of the chip. Although it is not strictly - all the same when installing the item Ten times you twist choose the best half.

Cromaging

The next stage of the manufacture of our kitchen is the shape - the processing of the ends of the finished parts by the edge of PVC.

I always glue the edge all the details, and then I start assembling. I smack the work into several stages. This makes it possible to prepare more convenient for a specific stage and minimize the amount of tool and material in the workplace. It is more practical and more convenient, especially if the whole process of manufacturing furniture occurs in a small kitchen - like me :).

I always stick the edge all the ends of every detail. To whom lazy or consider it excess - only visible ends can be placed in the edge (you do in all firms manufacturing companies). I process all the ends without exception, as it minimizes evaporation harmful to health formaldehyde resins. Secondly - you never know where water may appear. There was a case with a hidden champagne bottle. She decided to open itself in the closet. After that, I had to change 2 shelves, as they all swollen from moisture. I do not know would save the regiment from such a fate edge - I think that yes. Therefore, I recommend everyone when ordering furniture - insist on the shaft of all the ends. Yes - it is more expensive. But health is more expensive - although this is a matter of person personally.

What I use for the shafts of the ends of the details from the chipboard in the manufacture of furniture ... ..

Let's start in order:

Iron. Preferably without any coatings, with a flat, solid sole and light. We will have to work a lot on weight. I have an old (about 8-9 years old there is definitely to him) Philips brand iron - well, very light. I have not met anything easier. The only minus is the Teflon coating. True, after a few years of the shaon of them - the coatings almost left :)

A sheet of ordinary, white, clean paper. Through it, I stroke the edge. So that someone else wrote about paper - did not see. But I use. It seems to me so hard to overlay the edge - smooth heating, does not scratch the edge and not dumping (after all, I have a Teflon on the sole :))

Two clamps and smooth guide. In my case - Tabletop trim. Guide presses to the table with clamps. When sticking the edge, I will rest in this guide. This makes it possible to free your left hand. I am aiming the edge when sticking and sticking a sheet of paper.
The bay of the edge with the applied glue. I put on a clamp screw. It is very convenient to unwind and does not fall anywhere.
Stationery knife with a wide blade and a large and comfortable handle. They can carry out all edge sample operations. But I use it only for trimming end overhead edges.
Comfortable longitudinal double-sided edge of the firm of the company Wegoma. The tool is pleasant but not indispensable. The usual stationery knife can perform all his work and makes it no worse, although longer.

Well, the leading process itself

I put the item on the table and rest in the guide. I pull along the entire end to the edge and slightly fix it at the beginning of the end of the iron touch. I do not thank the edge at one edge, but I give skes evenly on both sides.

After that I impose a sheet of paper and start stroking the whole end through it. Gray along the entire length evenly. I do not stop, otherwise the edge is quickly overheated and swollen with bubbles. Without paper, this happens much faster. The process control over the state of glue on the outlet of the edge. I try to catch the moment when the glue begins to flow, but not yet bubble.

When along the entire length of the end (of course, if the item is small) glue in such a state, I raise the spacing of the iron and the heel soles spend with pressure along the entire length of the part. It is necessary to follow, so that the heel touches all over the end, and not only one of the edges. At the same time, the edge is very tight pressed to the chipboard, which means it is well glued.

While the glue is not completely frozen, I turn the part and put the end with the glued edge on the table. I pressed on the item from above and slightly shaking it. Pressing and swaying the part on a flat surface is achieved good adjacent edge on the sink lines. In addition, there is a heat removal from the edge (glue) to the table. Adhesive fastest fastest. It is necessary to cut the edge only after it is frozen glue.

In this position, I immediately form the end skes of the edges by the stationery knife.

Do not cut anything, tormenting the edge. You only need to install the blade and press it stronger. I usually do it, putting the strip of fiberboard polished side up.

It remains to take advantage of the longitudinal coat of wegoma. Cut at once from two sides, I did not adapt. Therefore, cutting with one side at a time. Fortunately detachable detachable. To achieve the best result, I first cut a slight edge a little from one end (otherwise there are chips and brooms at exit), and then lead the cutter from the opposite end. This is how the process occurs - easily and without tension. Random laminate sections with this method are excluded (but when "grinding" the stationery knife is).

After that, you can put it in the assembly, the details that will be attached in places where access to the seashed edges will be limited, i.e. The probability to hook the edge is minimal. Although I still advise you to walk with a cloth, to remove the glue. Here is a photo of the edge after trimming. Do not be afraid, white is not chips - this is glue.

But we strive to ideal. Therefore, we go through the shallow eye shook wound on the bar. I wipe the excess glue. And get such an end !!

For example, trimming the edge using a conventional stationery knife.

I put a sheet of paper and put forward to the entire blade of the stationery knife. I press the left hand of the knife, right hold the knife knob. It is important that the piece of paper lay in a dense to the brake edge. Then hand lying on a sheet of paper and pressing a knife with a knife - pulling a sheet of paper on yourself. It turns out that the knife lies on a sheet of paper, and the paper slides along the edge. In this case, the knife breaks to the Laminate of the chipboard and its scratch.

There is no left hand on this photo - she holds a camera. In general, it must press the nodge's spout and pull the paper sheet along the edge.

Here you can not really try and do not worry if the edge cuts into the waves. The main thing is to not remove the laminate. In the photo below, it was specially chosen a plot of worse - after trimming the furniture edge with a knife.

Next, clean the sheet of paper, put the knife straight to the laminate and cut the residues of the edge. The remnants of the edge are small - more often it is the thickness of the paper, the poet they do not create such resistance when cutting, so that the knife crashed into the laminate. Therefore, putting a knife with the whole line of the island to laminate, cut off the remnants.

It is also desirable to press the knife's sprinkle - just I have a camera in my left hand.

We go through the ace on Broke, holding it under 45 degrees (we make a fake), we wash the ribs of the remnants of the glue and get such an end.

Assembly

Well, now about the assembly ...

Here in general and tell me especially I do not know what.

When assembling, I use corner clamps.

I climb the fastened parts from above and below. Laying sheets of paper, otherwise it is a great probability to form a laminate or tear the edge.

I look at the pencil first, and then the drill on a tree (nail) the place of drilling. I kill and do not understand by screwing the Jews.

When choosing a place of drilling, followed by the following rule. From the edge, departing 60 mm. If the length of the connection is more than 400 mm - I put 3 Evrogin. Although it is necessary to look at the place of course.

For severity under the EuroBrints, I use a special drill with a cutter. Very convenient - at once all 3 diameters.

Under the cups of loops for the facades, drill a special cutter with an emphasis. The emphasis does not allow to fly deeper than that the cups of loops require. Very comfortable thing. Prior to that, I had to look for the drills of the phostoin and carry out the guide spike to a minimum. To monitor the depth of the depth. Now everything is much easier and faster - I recommend it.

I'll tell you how the suspended boxes did on the example of the largest. With dryer for dishes. Low cabinet. The dryer for mugs and plates could not stick - little height. I decided to divide into two departments. In one dryer for mugs, another - plates. Bought a long dryer for 800 mm. Then cut under the size of the departments. The separation wall hangs on the lid - it does not reach Niza. Therefore, put the standard pallet from the dryer at 800mm.

In general, everything is clear with the assembly. Bottom and lid contributions. Fix the parts with the help of corner clamps from above and below. We deplorable and twist with Eurovints. When the frame will be assembled, screw the rear wall (rear) from the fiberboard. In the store, the rear walls are increasingly navigating, or even just shoot the stapler. I still prefer to fasten. Clean thin screws with a length of 20 mm in 80-100mm increments. You can use the usual fiberboard, not laminated. But it is strongly visible spots that appear from moisture and fat. Therefore, I advise you still laminated DVP - it is possible to wash it.

It is worth staying on the installation of loops - frogs. I set the usual overhead loops Boyard. Same cheap, what were there. In general, they work normally - well, over time - let's see.

From the edge center for the loop cup, I mark 21-22 mm. I try to withstand 21.5mm. In the height of the drawer from the top and from Niza, the center of the box is scheduled for 80-100mm. It is necessary to watch it. Look carefully so as not to drill in the venue of the milling !!! I have a milling facade of the milling facade from the edge. Therefore, I moved a loop to 110mm.

After the loop is drilled under the loop cup, I set the loop, put a metal corner, align one of his side along the edge of the facade, and the other side of the corner sets the loop to the desired position. Introducing holes for the screws. After that, I kill the non-cut holes and screw the loop. So as not to drill the facade through I use one very simple reception. I take the drill and wind at the desired height strip of paper scotch. Now it is very convenient to control the depth of drilling.

A special metal corner was chosen as a suspension. The closet is fastened to a bolt through a large washer. Adjusts adjustment and easy to mount to the wall.

Now I'll show you how I install the facade with screwed loops on the closet.

I open a loop, we translate the support platforms into the middle position and put the facade on the desired surface of the cabinet. I swing the facade and catch the moment when the loop platforms lay down completely on the closet surface. Only in this position we note the place of drilling under the fastening of the loop platform.

Do not mark when the nose or heel of the loop platform is raised above the chipboard (as in the photo below). In this case, the likelihood is not possible that it will not be able to adjust the loop at all - it does not have enough adjustment limits.

It remains to sew and fasten the facades. After that, it is necessary to adjust the loops so that everywhere there were the same gaps and the facade lay clearly around the perimeter of the cabinet.

Kitchen sink.

In the manufacture of kitchen sink there are several nuances. Initially - here are the pictures of the collected washing. True door handles are not yet installed.

The countertop in the depth of the cabinet should be selected (cut off) so that the kipplesampler went out for the facades. The kapellable is a special groove of water-repellent material or a shallow groove, which are located on the bottom front side of the table top. If you get to the tabletop of water, the kippler does not give her to fly inside the kitchen cabinets, forcing water to fall on the floor, bypassing the facade piece of the kitchen.

In general, on the packaging of stainless kitchen miles there is already a template for marking. But 2 last washing that I installed, went with the wrong templates. Therefore, I advise you to check the template first. Cut it and just try to wear it on a stainless kitchen sink. On my first template was 1 cm less than you need on all parties. In the second side lacked 1 cm.

Now - as I passed the sink in the worktop. At first I trained the borders of the free square on the table top. Those. On the left and right lines at a distance of 16 mm from the edge are the sidewalls. Rear 2mm (stiffery stiffeness 16 mm + 5 mm - canopy over the wall from the fiberboard). Front, ranging from the railway line - 34 mm (16mm - the facades + 16 mm stiffery bar + 2 mm - the gap between the facade and the sidewall). Now there is a rectangle on the table tops, in which you need to enter a wash. I measured the washing and the resulting rectangle. I needed to be washing in the center. Therefore, put the sink on the table top, leaving the same distances from all sides of the washing to the rectangle received on the table top and lined with a pencil on the tabletop, washing. Then he retreated from the resulting circuit 15mm inside and drawn another contour just from hand. On this line and sawed by an electrolybik. To introduce the pubsik pink, I first drilled through a hole of a 10mm drill. In him put the Pillet Electrolovka and then went on the markup. It turned out that when installing washing, it covers a tabletop by 15 mm.

After drinking, it is necessary to take the countertop to protect against water. External ends pasted with a wide furniture edge. The resulting inner cut and the lower plane of the table tops are not sparing, rubbing well, transparent sealant.

Before installing the sink, it is necessary to fix the worktop to the cabinet itself. Since the washing is big - I had to wise. In the corners screwed metal corners - the photo below.

In the middle of the sidewalls and rigidity planks set cropped corners. In the place of bend drilled the hole and screwed the screw at 45 degrees in the worktop.

After that I installed the sink and pulled it with regular fasteners. Need to follow the screw screws. In some places at a certain coal of spinning, the screw with full twist may move into the stainless steel and squeeze it.

I put a coming sink compaction. It is on a self-adhesive basis. Proves along the edge of the washing. Maybe I could not - but I could not pull over the entire surface without a clearance. The gaps are minimal - the nail will not climb. But the hole is a hole. Therefore, everything was unscrewed, additionally delivered the washing throughout the perimeter, in front of the braced regular seal, the strip of transparent sealant. In general, some masters throw out a regular seal and set the sink only on the sealant. They squeeze the sealant "sausage" on the edges of the sink, turn over and attract. At the same time there are no gaps, the sink is well adjacent, and it is also well sealed with silicone sealant, which can be antiseptic.

Additionally, the side ends of the countertop closed the polished plank. It is screwed with screws. Before installing it, I missed the silicone sealant. This plank prevents the descent of table tops from the likely side shocks and additionally protects against water.

Desktop with drawers

Now I will tell you how I made the next piece of furniture for my kitchen. This is a desktop with drawers. To begin with - photos of my kitchen desktop - the end result.

And the sink and the desktop are installed on adjustable supports 100mm. It is mounted at the front of the ground clips to them.

For small drawers applied ball guides Boyard with a carrying capacity of up to 25 kg. For large roll-out boxes used wide ball guides of the same firm, with a carrying capacity of up to 45 kg.

What other features when building a desktop - no. The table top is screwed through the planks of screws. Subtleties only in the installation of facades.

Fucked facades with screws. 2 screws on the facade. At first pasted small pieces of bilateral tape on the box. Then carefully brought the facade, holding the knob for a pre-attached handle. Top and on the side substituted pieces of fiberboard (for installation with the same gaps). Pressed. After that, the facade turns out to be quite well fixed. Installed all the facades. If I crawled it - boldly pierced the facade and glued again - very convenient. When the location of the facades fully satisfied me, he climbed the thin drill and screwed the screws. That's all the trick.

That's what happened in the end

COST COST COST - Cost

Position	Price, rub
2 sheet chipboard laminated 1.83х2,44 16mm
Cutting DSP
Adhesive
Facades
Fiberboard - 1 sheet
Pens
Glasses
Elevators (6pcs), guides (13 pcs.), suspensions (6 pcs.), supports (12 pcs.), loop-frogs (10pcs.), Stacks of table top (4pcs.), Eurovints, screws, glass holders (18 pcs.), Wide edge for countertops (5 m), washers for suspensions (6 pcs.), Metal corners (6pcs),
Washing
Drainer
Total	11580,72
A small amount of screws, evrohns, silicone sealant, double-sided scotch, plugs, was already not bought. Plus consumables: Pilking for the jigsaw, the skin, drill for the European innovints (the cutter is fastened quickly). Therefore, the real costs are a bit, rubles for 300-400, more.

Modern life places the requirements for the dwelling, among which there is not only beauty, but also functionality. Each person knows that the multifunctional technique has a high cost, as well as aesthetic furnished kitchen. Modern kitchen set of good quality will cost a round sum. Despite the fact that for each person the concept of "inexpensive" has different limits, a family with an average intraction cannot afford such a purchase. For this reason, many families try to make furniture for the kitchen with their own hands. From this article you will learn how to assemble the kitchen headset with your own hands and that you will need for this.

Features and advantages

To make independently furniture, it is not necessary to have a carpenter or joiner's formation. You only need the desire and availability of free time, as well as tools. When creating furniture with your own hands, you will receive the following advantages:

individual project of exclusive quality;
saving finance;
new experience;
obtaining pleasure from handmade;
an important meaning has the fact that the kitchen created by certain brands will be perfectly fit into the interior of your kitchen.

There are several paths, with which you can fulfill your plans. For example, you can contact a specialized company, where you will provide services on cutting and shaking, or buy ready-made components. The last option is the easiest. However, in this case, your headsets will have standard dimensions. There is a third option that is concluded in the full manufacture of furniture for the kitchen alone.

How to make it yourself

You can make a homemade table for the kitchen with the help of available materials. Initially, you need to decide on the size, and how to prepare a sketch in any other work. You can draw a sketch from scratch to the same or use the finished option. You can draw a drawing as a basis or draw the necessary details.

With your own hands, you can create not only a kitchen set, but also a transformer table, a highchair in the kitchen, or furniture for giving. You can read the instructions for making furniture in more detail below.

Materials

First of all, it should be decided on the material from which you will produce furniture.The modern world has many solutions, and each product has its own characteristics and advantages.

As a rule, it is a tree as the basis of any furniture. Many are used in their work chipboard of European production, because it has better characteristics compared with Russian products. If you are more like MDF, remember that it requires further coloring.

MDF is more expensive chipboard and better in quality. From such a material you can create decor elements, it is also convenient when molding. In some cases, MDF exceeds a natural tree in density, so it is in demand in the Russian market.

If you are a supporter of natural and healthy materials, you can make a kitchen headset of wood. Remember that such furniture will be sensitive to temperature change and humidity. Each billet will need to be processed using a special impregnation and an antiseptic.

Countertops are made from chipboard, MDF and natural wood. The main load accounts for this item, so many experts advise natural or artificial stone in their work.

Some elements, such as the bottom of the boxes, can be made of plywood, as well as side details.

Today, furniture shields have been popular. They are a wood product made in the form of a shield. A shield gluits from several parts with a special glue. Several wood species can act as a material:

birch;
pine;
larch;
aspen;
cedar.

The kitchen set of furniture shield is more convenient because there is a wide selection of sizes.

OSB plates are suitable as a decor, for example, to cover the apron zone, or to create an original shelf. Outfielding lockers and bookshelves in other rooms also manufacture.

From drywall, you can also make furniture for the kitchen. The benefits of this material include low cost and accessibility, along with convenience in the work. HCL sheets can take any fastening, even glue. You will only need to make loading. Each product should be decorated with the help of finishing materials, because in the original form of the GLC does not differ at attractiveness.

Separate attention deserves furniture for a kitchen of bricks. This style is called "Mugged". It does not take great popularity, but still he has fans. Brick furniture looks impressively indoors and gives him solidity. Best of all, such a material will look at the large kitchen, as it will be difficult to place full-fledged lockers on a small space.

Required tools

For self-making furniture, you will need to prepare the following tools:

electric drill;
electric jigsaw;
screwdriver.

Do not forget about furniture loops, confirmants, self-drawing, dowels, drills, pencil and roulette.

Preparation of all the necessary components will help you quickly cope with the task and not distracting work on shopping trip.

Step-by-step instruction

With this instruction, you can assemble the kitchen headset on your own and prevent possible errors that may occur during the operation:

The first step is to remove measurements and creating a sketch. Implement accurate faces of the room and fix them on paper. Picture a room in a convenient scale for you so that the finished kitchen set fit into it with the maximum benefit.

Decide where the washing with a stove will be located. If the current location of the furniture does not suit you, specify the place in the drawing where you take them. The question of plates should be thought out to be thought out to the smallest detail, because the sizes of kitchen furniture depend on it. Consider the dimensions of the refrigerator and its location.

Now it follows to the obtained free space to enter kitchen furniture. Consider not only the lower row, but also the upper lockers, hood.

If you have the opportunity, you can order the required components for the kitchen, taking into account the selected dimensions. Holding parameters, pay special attention to the size of drawers. The size of the decorative facade will depend on these dimensions. Solving the issue with the location of the shelves will help you determine the necessary amount.
Do not forget to record all measurements in your sketch and decide what type of material will be optimal for your kitchen.

Restoration

Most people agree to restore the old furniture under the power only by the most patient person, since this process is comparable to real art. Not everyone will like to do with the headcard, gradually restoring the former type of product.

To make a decent product from old furniture, you will need to spend the following activities for creating a new design:

carefully disassemble the product;
clean and flushing;
eliminate the defects of the lacquer surface;
spend work with wood defects;
carry out repair and strengthen fasteners;
wood should be painted and primed;
decorate the appearance of furniture with "actions", varnishing, painting and polishing.

The most difficult task is the restoration of the table, or rather the remake of its legs. To do this, you will need to remove the old plywood, to restore the former shape with a liquid tree.

Assembling ready-made headset

Cuts components required to get out in advance. Previously grind them with the assault. After that, the edge ribbon is applied to the place of sleep and glued with a hot iron or a construction dryer.

If you use an ordinary iron, then when glued it is necessary to attach a piece of fine matter to the edge.

Cut edges edge when it cools out. Such a reception is able to give furniture attractiveness and maintain it from bloating with high humidity.

The next step is to apply markup and drilling holes for fastening and holders for shelves. Do not hurry to work with a drill, because the error will lead to the throughout hole.

Lockers are collected as a box. The vertical side walls should be attached to the lower horizontal surface. The lid is screwed to the last turn.

Roller guides need to be installed using a construction level. They should be placed horizontally and in parallel with respect to each other. Otherwise, the boxes cannot be put in the designated place.

Setting the legs is made on a fully assembled and inverted cabinet. It takes the front part to put the facade part, after which they are attached to the loop to the side wall.

To update the interior, you can use simple decor techniques:

thematic stickers on the wall and ceramoplit;
ornament with the help of a stencil;
different panels and signs;
painting furniture and walls.

Similar decor elements are able to give furniture or separate elements. Bright accent. Interesting stickers are sold in various stores or you can independently cut out of a self-adhesive film. The decorated platform above the table, on the apron area or above the working surface, will give the stylish kitchen interior.

In small rooms, selection of jewelry with small and elegant elements should be taken, and large parts should be purchased for large or empty walls.

Stencil painting is very stylishly on kitchen furniture. You can make molds of thick cardboard or plastic and make an original ornament. The painting of an artistic character will look very stylish.

Excellent will look in the kitchen interior the following items:

various plates;
cutlery;
corks from wine;
sea shells and pebbles;
molds of paper and silicone, as well as pasta.

If your kitchen furniture is different from beautiful and fashionable interiors, do not be upset. With the help of creative ideas that you can realize with your own hands, the standard set will turn into a real work of art.

How can I decorate the furniture:

staining;
decoupage;
non-standard fittings;
plastic decorative linings with imitation of the thread;
film.

If you have free time, and you want to use it to make anything with your own hands, then you have discovered the page you need and useful in this regard. Here you can learn how to make the kitchen furniture yourself, using braid tools, manual and electric tools, as well as waste from sawn timber.

Template

In order to make kitchen furniture with your own hands, you will have to do not just cut smooth panels, but to make holes in them for connecting to each other and to install accessories. In this case, accuracy is very important, and do similar measurements every time with the help of a roulette or caliper for too long and uncomfortable, besides there is a high probability in errors. To avoid similar troubles, you can purchase or make a template for marking and drilling holes.

For the manufacture of such a template, you will need two ordinary school wooden rules for 20 cm long and school transport. Now these rules need to be glued in the form of the letter T, just be sure to ensure that the angles exactly correspond to 90⁰. Now on the riser, from the beginning of the intersection you need to make a mark at a distance of 8 mm, 16 mm, 32 mm, 50 mm, 70 mm, 100 and 120 mm, drilled in them 2 mm for a pencil diameter.
And now, let's see what these distances are needed: 8 mm Millimeter is needed for end drilling for euroschauses or confirm (EVRIKA); 16 mm Mark, it is the thickness of the part itself, and 32 mm is the thickness of two parts. The remaining holes are needed for marking canopies and retreat from the edge of the part. As you understand, the price of such a template will be purely symbolic, but it will function not worse than professional.

Roller guides and dimensions of boxes

You can learn how to make the kitchen furniture with your own hands only if you can accurately install roller guides for drawers. Modern cabinets do not cost without such fittings, so let's try to bring the general formula to install them. In addition, without accurate calculation, you will not be able to properly install boxes in the closet, and therefore the furniture will be defective even in the presence of a strong and beautiful frame.

We continue to consider the topic, as you have to make furniture for the kitchen and take for example the usual endboard for different kitchen utensils, which is usually in the shuffles. So, suppose that the height of the sidewalls in our cabinet 734 mm with four box facades, h (height) of the base of 70 mm and the gap between the facades 3 mm (3 × 4 \u003d 12 mm). Now we can calculate the height of each facade - 774-12-70 \u003d 652 mm and divided by the number of boxes - 652/4 \u003d 163 mm.

Considering that all drawers should be interchangeable in this case, it is necessary to take into account the extreme position of the shuffling and the facade of the box with a frame of the couches. The extreme position here will be at the upper and lower shuflda, where the lower facade should overlap the bottom, and the top is a bundle under the table top.

The distance between the axial line and the bottom of the guide is 18 mm, as can be seen in the drawing photo and this bottom will coincide with the bottom of the box. The head of the screw is from the strength of 1.5 mm thickness, but we will add 4 mm, in case the facade is not from a 16 millimeter, but an 18-millimeter plates. So, the height of the fastening of the first guide will be 18 + 4 \u003d 22 mm, and if on the floor, then 22 + 16 (bottom) +70 (base) \u003d 108 mm.
Now, having in stock These calculations can be removed permanent, 22 + 16 (bottom) \u003d 38 mm. Calculate another value - the distance from the bottom facade end to the bottom of the shuflda - 38-18 \u003d 20 mm. We remember that the constant for the guide - 38 mm (this is the distance from the bottom end of the facade to the axis of the guide).

Continuing to discuss how to make kitchen furniture yourself, let's calculate the height of the drawer and fastening to them the facade and begin with the top. Pay attention to the photo at the top, and you will see a jumper under the table top, which serves for the rigidity of the design, while holding the sidewalls at the same distance. Now we need to calculate the height of the boxes of the box, but so that it does not rest in the binder and, given the fact that all the facades we have the same - shuflads should be interchangeable.
If the facade is obtained 163 mm, then, in fact, it is quite enough sides with a height of 50-60 mm - the retractable mechanism will function excellent. But if with a low side, hurry in the shuffling of all the little things, then the items simply will fall out.
The minimum distance between the binding jumper and the hoody body should be identical to the diameter of the roller on the guide, that is, 18 mm. In order not to have problems with the swelling of the chipboard (suddenly it will happen) add another half of size - 9 mm and in the end we get 27 mm gap.
Place in height For each box, we have 163 mm (facade) +3 mm (clearance) \u003d 166 mm, and the distance from the bottom edge of the facade to the bottom we have already been determined earlier - 20 mm. Now we calculate the distance from the top edge of the facade to the top of the drawer - 16 mm (jumper) +27 mm (provided by the gap) \u003d 43 mm, but from here we remove 3 mm, which we leave on the gap between the facades and get 40 mm.
Now we calculate the universal height of the side - 163 mm (facade) -20 mm (lower intake) -40 mm (upper cassette) \u003d 103 mm along with the bottom. The side of the drawer will fall to the end to the bottom of the Fiberboard, which has 3 mm thickness, it means that the silent height of the side will be 100 mm. From here you can withdraw formula - H (Box Box) \u003d H (facade) - (20 mm + 40 mm) (lower and upper pisces) -tolemn Fiberboard for the bottom of the shufland.

Council. Sometimes in the kitchen, the lower box is made with a facade, half higher than the rest and you too can make the same tumb. Simply separate the distance for the large facade (taking into account the gap of 3 mm), and the remaining distance is divided into the desired number of boxes.