How to drill Kalenny Steel at home. Drilling holes in the walls How to drill an exact hole in the metal

In construction and finishing works, the drilling of the holes takes up a non-primary, but quite a significant role. And only at first glance it seems that drove just - jim on the drill button and that's it. Each material requires the choice of a suitable drill, the necessary revolutions and pressure on the drill, the method of cooling the drill and drainage chips - all this with experience is literally intuitive. And the beginners will help our advice.

To begin with, we define can the existing drill cope with those holesthat you want to drill. The determining parameter is the power of the drill. An ordinary household drill with a capacity of 500-600 W copies with holes up to 10 mm in steel and up to 25 mm in the tree. Impact drill The same power can drill a hole up to 13 mm in concrete or brick. If your work requires a greater, then the drill to choose must be more powerful.

The choice of tools and drilling modes strongly depends on the material to be drilled and the diameter of the opening.

1. How to drill a tree, fane, fiberboard?

With the drilling of small holes in soft materials, special problems does not occur even from newbies. It is not necessary to put pressure on the drill very much, turnover should be slightly higher than the average - the hole is cleaned. Too high revs can lead to the fact that the friction drill will grow up, the tree will begin to burn. This is a good way to get fire, but the item will be spoiled.

For holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm, you can use conventional spiral drills for metal. When drilling in deep holes in the tree, especially in resinous rocks, the drill must be more often (through every drilled 10-15 mm) hire and clean the spiral grooves from chips. It is necessary to do it carefully not to burn about the hot end of the drill.

When drilling very small holes (up to 1.5-2 mm), any careless movement of the drill, the slightest skew drives the drill breakdown. Drills less than 1 mm in general can be broken by weight of the drill, setting the drill to the drilling point. So as not to translate such drills with packs keep in mind that tree, Fiberboard, simple Phaneur can be perfectly drilled by a piece of stationery clips or nail. The end of the "tool" is biled with rake at an angle - and a tolerable drill is obtained. The drilling point is needed to smoothly.

Special spiral drills for wood at first sight remind drills for metal, but the cutting part of them is sharpened differently (with the edge of the center and edges), and the grooves are wider. This allows you to make cleaner holes and improves chip off. The diameter of such drills from 3 to 50 mm.

Big diameter drills often have a hexagonal shank, which prevents scrolling the drill in the cartridge. Under the hexagonal shank there are also extension supplements for the drilling by conventional short drills of deep holes.

Turns when drilling are chosen based on the diameter of the drill and hardness of the tree. Holes up to 15 mm can be drilled by 1400-1600 rpm, 15-25 mm - per 1000-1200 rpm, 25-50 mm - 500-600 rpm. For solid wood, turnover wood should be reduced by 1.5-2 times.

For drilling in a tree of holes from 10 to 60 mm produced feathery drills. Outwardly, they resemble a blade with edge in the center.

Such feathered drills of large diameters much cheaperthan spiral, there is their main advantage. Drilling deep holes with feather drills are not very convenient. The drill does not throw out the chips, it has to withdraw and clean the hole manually. Turns when drilling can be kept higher. For holes up to 25 mm - up to 2000 rpm, over 25 mm - 1500 rpm. For solid wood, turnover should be reduced by 1.5 times.

For drilling large and deep holes (for example, holes for wires and pipes in wooden beams) use Levis drills. Such a drill looks like a drill with a screw at the end.

The wide groove with a small angle of inclination effectively assigns chips. Levis drills are produced by a diameter of 10 to 50 mm. Holes up to 15 mm drilled by 1500 rpm, 15-25 mm - per 1000 rpm, 25-50 mm - 500 rpm. For solid wood, turns are reduced twice.

For special types of woodwork, the forstner drills, milling drills, crowns and ring saws are also used.

2. How to drill chipboard and laminate

The drilling of chipboard and laminate in general does not differ from the drilling of the tree. Some complexity may arise due to the heterogeneity of the chipboard - because of this it is difficult to start drilling exactly in the intended place. To avoid this first glow hole shill and drill with a drill with a diameter of 2-3 mm. Then drill the drill of the desired diameter.

Laminate is easily drilled by both ordinary tree drills and crowns of any diameter. When drilling a laminated chipboard for furniture, it is convenient to use a specialized tool. For example, holes for confirmates (special screws for furniture assembly) are drilled by a special drill with three cutting parts. This allows you to simultaneously drill the attached part and make the guide hole for the threaded part in the main part.

3. How to properly drill plastic and organic glass

Plastic and organic glass (polycarbonate, plexiglas), in contrast to wood, have a homogeneous structure without fibers, but it is easily melted. In this case, it is possible "Furious" and breakdown drill.

Holes of small diameters (up to 10 mm) can be drilled by conventional drills for metal on small circulation (up to 500 rpm). The location of the drilling is desirable to "lump" the grinding nail. The drill must often withdraw and cool in water.

Holes of a larger diameter or complex form is the easiest way to drill on the contour of a 2-3 mm drill, suck the jumpers with a jabble or a hacksaw blade and handle edges with a file.

4. How to drill brick and concrete?

Concrete and brick is a regular drill for metal to drill. Or succeed, but very long. The material in this case will play the role of a grinding stone and just fills the drill. Holes in brick and concrete drilled (or rather - drill) with shock drill or perforator. These tools not only rotate the drill, but also hit it.

In the shock drills, the blow is mechanical. The details of this mechanism are rapidly wear out, so drilling with a blow to the shock drill - the auxiliary mode and they are better not to abuse. In perforators, the blow is carried out by an electromagnetic or electropneumatic mechanism, it can work hundreds of times longer. Yes, and the blowing energy at the perforator is much higher, concrete with a good drill is drilled by a perforator not worse than solid wood.

Before drilling the wall, it is necessary to check whether there are no pipes, heating or electrical wires in it. With pipes, it is usually all clear, but the presence of electrical wiring is better to check the special device or, in the extreme case, the simplest homemade crawler of a hidden leash.

For drilling brick and concrete use drills with carbide tips. According to tradition, they are often called "victorious" drills, although other materials are increasingly used for the manufacture of tips, for example. Wolfram carbide.

Please note that drills for drills and pefrorators have different shanks. And if the drill (drill) for the perforator with the SDS-Plus shank can still be kept into the cartridge drill, then the perforator drill with a simple cylindrical shank will not be twisted.

For drilling brick or concrete A shock drill is chosen by the average turnover. At high speeds, the drill will overheat and fail, on low drilling will be inefficient. The drill must be very strongly pressing, because the blowing energy depends on the strength of the press, and periodically displays a drill for cooling.

When drilling, the rotation perforator is quite low (800-1000 rpm) and it makes no sense to put things on the tool - The impact energy is determined only by the mechanism of the perforator. It is enough so that the drill does not bounce on the concrete (5-6 kg).

Holes under the dowel make 10 mm deeper than the length of the dowel. It will save from problems if a few concrete or brick dust remains in the opening.

5. How to properly drill glass, porcelain, ceramic tiles?

Glass and porcelain have high hardness and fragility. Ordinary drill these materials simply does not take - slides over the surface, and when drilling with a blow, the product splits. Therefore, the drilling of glass and porcelain is actually grinding with a special drill for glass. The glass in this case is simply turning into fine glass dust.

Looks like a small sharp sharpened blade. The blade is made of solid metal and can have one or two cutting edges.

Also there are drills with two mutually perpendicular blades resembling a crusade. This drill four cutting edges. Drills with lots of cutting edges are more expensive, but also drilled faster. Diameter of drill-paddes for glass from 3 to 12 mm. Larger diameter holes (100 mm) are drilled by diamond tubular or sliding drills.

The drilling of glass and porcelain is carried out on low revs - up to 300 rpm, without hitting, only clockwise. Mandatory use of a lubricant-coolant. The best results gives the use rosifold solution in turpidar (1: 2-1: 3) or camfar in Skipidar (3: 4). You can also use silicate paper glue. In the extreme case, you can use pure turpentine and even water. So that the fluid does not spread, a side of a plasticine is made around the drilling site. As glass dust contaminated (clouding), the fluid is replaced with fresh.

To avoid chips at the exit, the glass is drilled on both sides. First on one side - by 0.7-0.8 thickness, then on the other. In order to drill a hole exactly in the appointed location, you can outline the center of the hole with a diamond glass cutter.

Ceramic tile drill the glass drill. The most difficult at the same time - to start drilling exactly in the right place. Here, too, you can use the diamond glass cutter and outline the point on the glaze. Experienced wizards set the drill to the drilling point and push it hard on it. This is enough to destroy a small area of \u200b\u200bglaze to fix the drill. When drilling a tile, already fixed on the wall, it is important to stop and not start drilling the wall material itself. This can be very quickly ruined. Therefore, after passing the tiles, the drill changes and continue the drilling more suitable for the wall tool.

The solid layer of glaze on the ceramic tiles is quite thin, which allows drill small holes with drills with carbide platesdesigned for brick and concrete. To do this, use a new, well sharpened drill. And here the most important thing is to start drilling in the right place. The drill is so strive to slip away.

If you are not sure about the hardness of your hands, you can go to a small trick - to glue a piece of the leukoplasty in the right place. If there are a lot of holes, it is better to make a conductor. To do this, in a wooden paler, a thickness of 40-50 mm drove a hole for the rod drill. On the one hand, the hole is drilled so that a carbide plate fit into it at the end of the drill. From the bottom on the bar, you can stick a few pieces of fine rubber - this will prevent the slide.

In this case, without assistant can not do. At first, the drill is set to a drilling point, lower a bar, and the assistant holds it tightly in place. After that, the drilling is started - the squaling is excluded.

The treatment of metal parts belongs to the list of very complex operations. Drilling may be required when working at work, in the house, garage, in the country. For these purposes, drilling equipment, drills and additional accessories are used.

Metal products have increased strength, as well as hardness, which causes strict adherence to technology and the use of reliable and high-quality equipment. The drilling of the metal holes is required to create a variety of collapsible, as well as unintellular connections. For this plumbing procedure, a machine or drill is needed, a hammer with a locksmith keser for the exact hole mark and drill.

How to Drill Hole in Metal - Technology

Treatment of metal products is performed in production, during the repair of cars, at home, or in the manufacture of a variety of structures. Using the technology of drilling holes in metals provides for the use of machine tools or manual drills. At the same time, the first option requires significant financial costs, as stationary equipment is expensive.

The technological process of drilling is to gradually remove the thin metal layer with the rotationally progressive movement of the burava. The preparation of high-quality processing is impossible without reliable axial fixation of the cartridge and straight feed. For these purposes, special mechanical type clamps are applied - conductors. These additional devices are required when you need to drill a hole in metal products, the thickness of which is larger than the diameter of the tool used.

Before drilling, the center of the resulting hole by Kerner is scheduled. To get high accuracy, it is necessary to choose a bang by 0.1-0.3 mm less than the required size of the processed place. A small vibration of equipment will break the drilled diameter to the desired value. To reduce friction, cooling fluid is used or special lubricant. It can be a machine oil or ordinary water.

When the edges of the drill are blown, they must be corrected, otherwise you can spoil the tool and workpiece itself. When working with hollow objects (boxes, pipes), a special wooden strut is placed inside. If you want to cut the thread, the drills are selected, taking into account the breakdown of the drilling site. First use a smaller diameter bouwn, after which the main one is drilled.

How to drill metal drill

The main problem when working with a drill is its manual retention. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the direction, to provide the necessary clamping force and control the drilling rate.

After putting the necessary marks on the product, the center of future drilling places is required to be launched that it will not allow the rebel to shift. The workpiece can be fixed in the clips or position on a special stand. When using a manual tool for holes in metals, it is required to monitor the strict perpendicular location of the burava.

You can not have excessive pressure on the tool during operation. As it takes place, the effort decreases, which reduces the formation of burrs at the output and prevents the drill breakage. When bounce, it is released by reverse rotation.

If a high drilling depth (more than five diameters of the drill is required), special attention should be paid to the cooling of the cutting subject and the constant removal of metal chips. The short type drill is pre-used to obtain the required centering and feed direction. Chip removal is performed by turning the part, coolant, as well as hooks or magnets.

Requirements for drills

To quickly drill a hole in the metal, it is necessary to correctly select the drill, given the diameters, as well as the properties of the material. To do this, use high-speed tool steel. When driving alloyed and carbon steel steel items, cast iron, stainless steel and other hard-writable materials are used drills of a carbide type.

Before driving a hole in the solid metal, it is necessary to pre-drive it to the smaller instrument. Some cutting products have cobalt additives, which increase its wear resistance, as well as durability. In the marking of this tool add Literature "K".

Power and turnover when working

From the capacity of equipment that performs the drilling of the metal, its capabilities depend on. Manual drills having a power of about 500-700 W are designed to drive the sections to a maximum of up to 10-13 mm in diameter.

The speed of rotation of the cutting tool When working on a conventional metal, a small and medium (500-1000 rpm) is used. The use of high revolutions is fraught with rapid heating of the drill, which causes its annealing with decongered. Drilling deep holes in the metal should be performed with moderate pressure and low speeds.

How to drill metal

For a full-fledged metal drilling process, the main parameter is a drill sharpness. The duct speed of the cutting edges directly depends on the hardness of the material being processed, the feed force, the rotational speed, the presence of cooling and other factors. Technology drilling large holes in the metal is that it is initially drilled by a small drill, and then use the main one.

For accurate drilling, the centers of future processed areas are required. Improve the process conditions can be pre-dipping the tip of the instrument into machine oil. In everyday life used ordinary soap water. For the deep drilling process, it is necessary to constantly cool the work tool and delete the accumulating metal chips on time.

Sheet

When working with metal sheet types, it is necessary to put under the place of the cutting wooden bar, which will prevent the appearance of burrs. As a replacement of the bar, any material can be used, less solid than the main one. At the final stage, it is recommended to reduce the feed force, which will also reduce the likelihood of hazardous burrs.

Holes in the pipes

The main problem of pipe drilling is their accurate positioning. In this case, the input extended place often does not coincide with the weekend. An increase in the pipe diameter leads to even greater error. It is almost unrealistic to withstand strict perpendicularity to the eye, so they use specially purchased or homemade conductors and guides.

Stainless steel

Work with stainless steel is performed on minimal revs, preferably cobalt peel. The value of 120-150 rpm will provide the required quality and speed of the cut. In the absence of a speed controller, a short-term switching on the drill is used, which will not give the cartridge to accelerate to maximum values. You can use stepped drills, significantly facilitating the process. For diameters more than 15 mm, special "crowns" are used. Cooling the working element is carried out with fat or olive oil.

Aluminum

The complexity of working with aluminum products is to envelop the material of the cutting edges. This greatly makes it difficult to penetrate the drill inland and alone expands the place of processing itself. For accurate resulting, it is necessary to extract the drill to clean and use the cooling fluid from the details.

Safety

Any work, including the metal, must be carried out in compliance with all the necessary security measures. The billets are medium, as well as large sizes are fixed on special devices or on the machine table. Small details are held by manual vice. It is forbidden during drilling to keep processed products with hands.

It is impossible to concern moving elements, move the belts at the machine pulley during its rotation. The chips are removed by special hooks or brushes. Sleeves on overalls are fastened or rolled up the elbow above, the hair is hiding under the headpiece, the eyes are closed by safety glasses.

The drill is one of the most frequently performed by a homemade master of operations. And any master came across problems when driving, especially if the work is subtle. And the thin work is most often found and meets: the drill on half a million is the door of the furniture disshived or a simple hook for a towel in the bathroom got up, and it is impossible to replete: the tile has just been laid. The grace and "dugness" are incompatible, so you need to know how to properly drill a drill.

Safety

Electrical safety Available in wide sale Power tools refers to class II: Double working insulation, permissible use without additional grounding, i.e. Such a drill can be included in the usual, not euro, socket. At the Iron Baraars, you can meet a class I instrument ("industrial"), with a ground terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to apply it in everyday life, and the cartridge is most often under the drill with a conical shank (Morse cone), unsuitable for shock-rotational drilling. Therefore, do not take such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

The first class is indicated on the circuit of the drill, and if there are no designations, the body is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with the Evrovilka is a class II tool. III Class - power tools for operating voltage up to 42 V (low-voltage) can be found in the designation of the class on the nameplate and on a special fork with flat covert contacts. For the home it is suitable, but uncomfortable: you need a powerful lowering transformer.

For protection against foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters of IP (Ingrus Protection) with two digits after them: the first is from foreign objects, the second is from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, instead of the corresponding figure is the letter H. So, the IP32 drill can be used outside the room in good weather; IPH2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in the fog and drizzling rain, and IP68 can be operated during samum in sugar and under water.

Important:the first digit 2 means that the device is protected from finger penetration; For example, the household socket has the degree of protection IP22. But this in no way means that if the cartridge drills with the same degree of protection to grab his hand during work, he will stop in itself. The IP standard does not guarantee a fool protection.

Cartridge

An ordinary three-tag chuck is accurate and good with rotational drilling. In the shock-rotational drill, it is quickly smalleled, and the chuck itself loses accuracy and may be out of order: the threaded clip of the cam mechanism is burst. For work on solid fragile materials, a three-tag cartridge is suitable for episodic use or with a diamond working body in the only rotation mode.

In the quick-chase chuck (it can be found in the corrugated plastic frame) the drill is clamped with a colangoy. Such a cartridge is better holding a drill with shock-rotational drilling, but less accurate and for subtle works is little suitable. Powerful drills are supplied with two-fledged collet cartridge - clamp and weakening are made by different rings.

SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-sitzt, it. "Inserted-turned-sits" or Special Direct System, a special direct system, English) invented in the company BOSH. For construction works, SDS is ideal: the system of figured grooves, see fig., Absolutely reliably records the working body on the principle of the Chinese puzzle; Replacing the same drill is made by only two light movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for lacing and carpets: the accuracy of the centering of the drill is insufficient. The adapter with a three-tech cartridge on the SDS does not make sense: it will be broken from vibration, as well as the usual drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the usual landing for the working body.

Note:sDS landing is three types: SDS +, SDS TOP and SDS MAX. SDS TOP is rarely used as intermediate and in a general unsuccessful option; SDS + is designed for one-handed tool weighing up to 5 kg; SDS MAX - for heavy duct.

Power and turnover

Buying a shock-rotational drill for general work, do not need to save on power. Power supply is needed to create the required torque on small revolutions. The external characteristics of the collector electric motor with the sequential excitation used in the tremers is close to the perfect, but the low-power motor on small revolutions overheats from a large current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, the front cape handle.

Maximum turnover of drills are important. Diamond tools literally in front of the "eaten" at the speed of rotation less than 1600-1700 rpm; Its normal operating frequency of rotation is from 2500 rpm. The carbide tool needs at least 1500 rpm. If you meet the drill on 600-1200 rpm - this is a special tool, for the work of general purpose unsuitable.

For accurate work on metal, the best is best suited, only with rotation, a low power drill - 120-200 W. It will be very useful to it, turning the drill to a desktop drilling machine. And if you finish another on the swivel table to the bed, then the dental boron will be milling details.

Network or battery?

Rechargeable drill home master is needed in two cases:

• If work on the side is your more or less regular accommodation.
• If you have an inequer cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with a lithium battery and the time of his charge at 10-20 minutes is hardly released. This is an option for professionals working in every day full shift. And you will fit the usual alkaline battery, charging 4-8 hours. In extreme cases, it can be "twisted" for half an hour.

Outcome section

All of the above can be reduced to the following recommendations:

• Regular construction works, including metal structures - need a perforator and a shock drill for 350 W and above.
• Periodic homework - shock-rotating drill from 250 W.
• For accurate drillings - an additionally accurate drill for rotational drilling by 120-150 W; Preferably - with bed.

Drill

Drills for drill are most used as follows:

• Spiral - there are from instrumental steel, with a spraying of solid alloy, with a solid alloy insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
• Feather drills can be drilled wood, MDF and plastic. Allow you to drill the holes of a large diameter. Performed either solid, or in the form of a set of shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. Such a set is cheaper than a set of one-piece feathers, but less accurate.
• Crowned (crowns) are used for the removal of the wells in solid fragile materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in the chipboard and fiberboard. There are with a centering spiral drill without it. The second is cheaper, but are only suitable for stone and require solid skills.
• The circular drill (centrobor, ballerina) produces drilling of a large diameter holes in thin durable, but fragile materials with a decorative facial surface, such as a tile or polished decorative stone. The diameter of the drilling of the circular drill can be changed smoothly. Shock-rotational drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
• Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes from a special alloy with diamond spraying. They can drill glass, polished decorative stone, ceramic glazed tile. Roads, require careful circulation and accurate compliance with drilling technology.

Sharpening drills

Sharpening drill

Self-sharpening drills are allowed for drills of spiral and feathers. The first is pushed with diamond nadfyl - they are made from instrumental steel. Cheap kits can be made of conventional carbon steel; Their feathers can rule the usual supfil.

Spiral drills are sharpened by the emery circle (carbide-diamond) with a device - a wedge with an angle equal to 180 degrees minus half the angle of sharpening. So, at the coal of sharpening at 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side), the wedge is made by a longitudinal hollow or a deaf hole in which the drill when sharpening smoothly turns. The best sharpening is obtained using a small ("velvet") manual emery circle, see fig. below.

For different materials, different angles of sharpening drill are needed. Metal is most often drilled by drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and a stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Accurate angles and sharpening methods of drills of different types for different materials can be found in the reference manuals for processing materials.

On solid alloys

Solid alloys for drills are manufactured based on boron compounds, tungsten or zirconium. The cheapest - on the basis of boron, but already concrete this drill will take with great difficulty and quickly wear out. Such drills are marked by "stone". Decorative materials can be drilled by them - the edges of the hole are bodied. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily with persistence: zirconium work longer. Stand, respectively, more expensive.

What and how to drill

With any drilling, the holes should be outlined. For metal, this is made by Kerner, and on glass, ceramics and stone - either a special diamond kerner, or half a winning roller from old glass-cutter, sandwiched into a homemade clip. It is necessary to rotate (more precisely, scratch with rotation) of the holes in fragile solid materials manually. Now we turn directly to the drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, durally massive

The drilling of a metal metal is produced on the average turnover of drill, 400-1000 rpm, depending on the diameter of the hole: 400 revolutions - with a maximum of a drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 - with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the turnover is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

Turns are in mind the maximum, idling. In the process of drilling, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the supply of the tool, i.e. Accordingly, how much you are going to it. Selection of the supply during manual drilling on weight requires a certain skill: with too low feed, the crumb will go, the hole will open with uneven walls. And from the same crumbling drill overheat and quickly fills.

With an excessive feed, the so-called drain chips will go - the thick breath of the helix. The result is the same. In order for the feed skill to be faster, even small holes must be drilled from two hands, with a precipitated handle. The chips should go thin and fragile. For steels 42 and 44 (ordinary structural steel) allowable chips with bluing blossomy.

Special attention requires bronze and some dural varieties: they do not give drain chips at all, and duralum when heated above 160 degrees sharply loses strength. For bronze, it is permissible to follow the challenge: its appearance is undesirable. Durally needs to be cooled with liquid engine oil: if it rinsed, you need to put it easy.

Expand the speed at idle you can click the regulator. If the drill is 2800 rpm, and the regulator gives 14 clicks from the edge to the edge, then 1 click - 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully follow the process of drilling and give the necessary amendment: to know what clicks this tool is to drill this material.

Note:when drilling steel and brass, the lubricant is not needed, it will only hurt to form proper chips.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but leafy, so that the drilling does not lead to the leaf beat, you can recommend two ways:

• When drilling from the bed to give speeds more, to 1500-2000, and quickly "pierce" the sheet, which should be lying on a wooden pillow. To not check the sheet and did not injure you, it must be fixed with nails in his edges in the pillow, or press the clamp to the table; Better - two.
• When drilling on weight as soon as the increased feed resistance is felt (this means that the drill is about to come out) you need to revert a hole on the other side, coming inside the "bursts" kerner.

But a radical way to get a wide hole in a thin metal sheet with a regular drill - first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then into one or three receptions to expand it to the diameter of the required hole minus the double metal thickness, and to reserved. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous metal thickness. The maximum permissible diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. Those., In 2 mm, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with highly smoothed angles.

Aluminum - metal soft, very viscous and low melting: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling it can happen its melting on the cutting edge, breaking the hole, the intake of its edges and the cracking of the drill. Therefore, the turnover when drilling aluminum should be given once a half less than for other metals, cooling the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion, or water, and give a tool to be gradually, without lifting.

Aluminum drill must be sharp, with factory sharpening or sharpened on a special machine. Manually reconciled drills for aluminum are not suitable.

Stainless steel

The stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but a solid carbide drill, sharpened for metal. Such drills are very fragile, so the tool is needed easily and without the slightest skew. It is best to drill a low-power accurate drill in the bed.

Tree, MDF and plastic

Business wood drill sharpened under the tree with a spiral drill or feathers. Dense breeds (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a crown with a centering drill. Drill turnover - 400-600 for spiral drill and 200-500 for feathers and crowns.

The drilling of plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood is produced by either a special drill on a tree (with a shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone) or solid feathery drills. In the latter case, the centering hole in 3-5 mm is drilled in advance; It can be drilled by the usual drill. Turns - the same as for businesswood; Feed - light, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Concrete drilling is made by special drills for concrete with superhard attack or insert, shock-rotational method on medium or 2/3 from maximum drill speeds. The best option is the SDS drill. If the reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its spoilement: the solid tip is drunk. Therefore, before drilling a reinforced concrete, it is highly desirable to determine the locations of the reinforcement of the reinforcement by the reinforcement; This device works on the principle of metal detector.

The drilling of holes in the walls for peavernits is produced by a crown on a stone (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautionary measures in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled by a crown without a centering drill, it is tight, it is applied to the wall without a skewer, pressed, and sharply, quickly press, include drill.

For end-to-end drilling of the walls there is a special tool and technology, but this is a subject of a special description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative, the edges of the holes are unacceptable. Drilled already laid tiles, so cracking is also unacceptable. On the smooth surface of the drill can easily slip, which is again unacceptable. Drilling - only rotation.

The drilling of ceramic tiles is made as follows:

• Manually with a diamond or carbide kerner, a hole with a diameter of large thickness of the jumper of the centering drill; Its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a high-diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill must be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the circular drill.
• Concrete drill is drilled by a centering hole. When drilling holes under the dowel to 6 mm, you can immediately drill.
• The opening drill on the concrete hole is terminated completely.

Porcelain tiles will be drilled as well as ceramic tiles. Drill turnover - maximum, except drilling with a circular drill; Feed - easy, minimum. It is advisable to ensure continuous cooling of the working area with water. Cooling the tile oil is impossible - when heated it can spoil the decorative surface.

Circular drilling Circular drilling requires special caution and hard hands: the blockage is not allowed, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers drove a tetbrobor with two hands, thumping on the drill front handle. Revisions - higher, but not more than 900, because With a large unbalanced drill, breaks the hole and the commodity of its edge.

Video: How to drill tiles

Solid and glass

Glass, granite and other breccked (grainy) solid stone with a quartz switching on the diamond drill. This is a job for ACA and virtuoso drill. A low-power accurate drill put on maximum turns, trying to align the horizontal and vertical on the eye, include immediately "on full" and slowly, smoothly administer drill to the material. Press and blocks are not unacceptable.

If the processed piece can be put on the table, then the glass and the stone can be drilled by ancient Egyptian way: a copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

• Around the drilling site from plasticine or putty make a roller with a height of 1-1.5 cm.
• In the resulting hole, petty quartz sand poured and wet it up to the liquid casis.
• In the cartridge, the drill is filled with a smooth thin-walled copper tube.
• Drill put on minimal revs.
• Drilled by a series of short lungs of clums with the weakest Nazima. The sand is entrusted to copper, and the island of his grains, which have the greatest strength, are bred by the material.

Note: The exact diameter will not work, but it turns out a matte speck around the hole.

Video: Examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in the pipes

If a piece of pipe can be put in the center or clamp in vice, then it is better to drill an accurate drill from the bed. If you have to drill on weight, then after the inclination the label must be deployed to a diameter greater than the drill jumper thickness. For metal, this can be made by a carbide drill, rotating it with his fingers with a slight pressure; According to PVC, the tip of the perico knife.

Then the tip of the main drill is introduced into the well when the drill is turned off, the tool is aligned and try on, as when drilling a tile, slightly pressed and include a drill, smoothly increasing the revolutions. If the diameter of the hole is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then the centering opening 2-4 mm is drilled in a diameter. In general, with some skill the drilling of holes in the pipes - work is not difficult. We only need to be careful: when drilling to weight drill, sparkling, can damage the wall or furniture.

Square holes

Is it possible to drill square holes? Yes, it is possible to use the drill in the form of a so-called triangle Renault - the simplest figure, as mathematics, constant width say. Renault drills are complete with a locking frame; She bars and a clamp attached to a drill. The corners of the opening will turn out rounded, but the non-disconnected area of \u200b\u200bthe hole will be only 2%.

However, drill the square holes can be drilled only in a tree, plywood and not very durable plastic: for such a drilling you need a high power, and there are huge lateral efforts on the instrument. Square holes in the metal are drilled on special machines, and ceramics and stone can not be drilled at all: the side effort will be separated in pieces.

Outcome

Somehow to pierce the knocker is a root hole - it's stiff. But drill a smooth, round and neat hole - work for a real wizard, who knows, sensible and skillful hands.

Standard metal drills are well suited for working with soft metals as copper or aluminum. For solid metals, such as stainless steel, it is better to use drills, manufacture of chromium-vanadium or cobalt alloy or titanium carbide. The HSS label shows that the drill is made of high strength metal. Standard metal drills are available in the range of diameters from 1 to 13 mm.

1. Drills for metal

   A characteristic feature of the metal drill is their sharp end, which is required in order for the drill to be easily passed through the metal. The diameter of the metal drill is the same over the entire length; At the end, the drill is sharpened at an angle of 118 °. Such drills are also called high-speed steel drills (High Speed \u200b\u200bSteel; HSS). HSS drills from cobalt alloy are intended for drilling solid metals, such as stainless steel; They are sharpened at a somewhat more stupid angle of 135 ° to relieve centering at the start of drilling. Such drills are made of high-speed steel with an additive of 5% cobalt; When drilling, they need to be cooled using special oil.

2. Chip formation

   
   

   When drilling a metal, sawdust or fine chips are formed (when drilling soft metal types of brass) or long chips (when drilling solid metals, such as iron or steel). For each of these types of metal, there are special drills. The cutting edge of the drill for soft metals is flat (a). This is done so that such drills do not "eat" in the metal; They can also be used for other soft materials, such as plastic or nylon. The cutting edge of the drill for solid metals is sharp (b).

3. Big Diameter Hole Drilling

   
   

   If you need to drill a hole of a large diameter in the metal, you must first "go through" such a hole using a drill smaller diameter. This will allow a larger drill to cut metal more efficiently and reduce the likelihood of skew. If necessary, the pre-drilling can be performed in several passes, gradually increasing the diameter of the drill used.
   With a preliminary drilling, the diameter of the small drill (b) should be at least a diameter of the jumper of a larger drill (A). The jumper drill is called the shortest distance between two cutting edges.

   With a preliminary drilling, the diameter of the small drill (b) should be at least a diameter of the jumper of a larger drill (A). The jumper drill is called the shortest distance between two cutting edges.

4. Drilling rate

   
   

   A frequent error when drilling a metal is too high speed of rotation. The harder the metal in which you need to carry out drilling, the lower the drilling rate should be. For example, when drilling a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in brass, the speed of rotation of the drill must be installed on 2500 rpm. In the case of stainless steel, which is a significantly more durable metal, the correct magnitude of the rotation speed is 800 rpm. A good indicator that speed is installed correctly is the formation of a beautiful long shavings.

5. Drilling of thin metal sheets

   
   

   If you need to drill a thin metal sheet, you can never keep it with your hands. When the drill cuts the metal and goes on the opposite side, the danger occurs that the metal sheet can suddenly clamp the drill and break out of the hands. The correct solution is to firmly clamp a metal sheet between two pieces of wood. This reduces the likelihood of a dangerous breakdown of sheet. This also decreases the number of sovereigns, which simplifies the final finish of the workpiece.

6. Lubrication drill

   
   

   When iron drilling or steel it is recommended to apply as much effort as possible. Let the drill work! Lubricant oil can be used to lubricate and cool the drill. If the thickness of the metal is passed almost completely, it is impossible to allow too fast drill out on the opposite side of the workpiece. This will allow minimizing the formation of burrs when drill out.

7. Drilling metal pipes

   
   

   Before drilling a metal pipe, you must make sure that it is firmly clamped. For drilling it is best to use a drilling rack and vice. In order to prevent the pipe deformation - as a result of the pressure from the drill side - place a piece of the tree of the same shape inside the pipe as the pipe. In this case, you should be guided by the same advice: let the drill work; Do not apply too much effort.

Metal processing is produced not only in industrial conditions. When performing repair work on the car, the manufacture of structures on the nursery or carrying out the repair of the home, the drilling of holes in the metal is necessary. At home, a manual drill is most often applied.

This universal tool requires certain skills to work with solid products. You can purchase, or make an independent machine for drilling holes in the metal, but it is not cheap pleasure.

The technologies of drilling holes in the metal is to remove the thin layer of material due to the simultaneous translational and rotational motion.

The main condition for high-quality and safe (for tool) processing is the hold of the axis of the cartridge in a fixed position. With the help of the machine, it is easy to maintain straightness, which you can not say when working with a hand tool.

If you are not sure of the hardness of the hands (this is a normal situation for an ordinary person), mechanical assistants are required for drilling at a right angle.

Immediately disclaim that additional conductors are required only in the case when the metal thickness exceeds the diameter of the drill.

If you make a hole in a thin steel plate, straightness does not matter.

There are several varieties of guides for manual electric drills. Mechanical drive tools are poorly suitable for work with metal, especially if it comes to accuracy.

1. Conductor for drilling. It is made in the form of a housing, convenient for retaining, inside which are placed sleeve-guides for drills of different diameters.


The material of the bushings is harder tool, so the holes are not wearing. By installing the conductor exactly above the center of the alleged hole, you can not worry about what the drill will "lead" from the specified direction.

This device is particularly useful when drilling perpendicular holes in small diameter pipes, when the tip strives to slip from the cylindrical surface.



2. Drill guide (manual). The reference device in which the tool is fixed for the neck


The sole is placed on the workpiece while holding the second hand for the handle. The drill moves strictly vertically, preventing breakdown and drill diluted.

The design may have an angular holder for pipes of a small diameter, which makes the device more versatile.

If there is a rotary mechanism, you also get a device for drilling holes at an angle.


True, the metal will not be drilled in this way, the side loads will quickly break the drill.

3. Rack for a drill (stationary floor). In fact, is an inexpensive alternative to the drilling machine.