Appeads siphon under the kitchen sink - what to do? Siphon siphon flows for siphon

Tsugunov Anton Valerevich

Reading time: 5 minutes

The siphon performs important functions: due to the water cork, it does not smell from the sewage to get into the room and protects the pipes from frequent blockages. If the drain system was worn out or failed, it is not necessary to postpone it for later. Change the siphon under the sink independently is easy, for this you will not need special skills and complex tools, the main thing is to know how to do it right.

Types of siphons

Before replacing the siphon, you will have to choose and purchase a new product. First, get acquainted with the varieties of this device.

According to the principle of the syphon, used in the sink in the kitchen or in the bathroom washbasin, are divided into the following:

A bottle with immersed tube (a water cork is created by two cylinders, one of which is inserted into another). It is used more often than other types due to the possibility of removing the accumulated pollution by unscrewing the plug below.
Bottle with two partitions.
Pipe. Such a product has a type of pipe, curved in the form of the letter "S" or "U", at the expense of the bending of which is created by the hydroplays.
. It is a plastic corrugation, curved and fixed in the desired position of the clamp.

Previously, drain devices were made of steel and cast iron, but now for siphones and other plumbing equipment, a practical and inexpensive plastic is most often applied. It is not subject to corrosion, does not rot and delays dirt. Plastic tolerates cleaning with the use of cable and chemical means.

The cheapest products are made of polyethylene and PVC, their service life does not exceed 6 years. Polypropylene and ABS plastic siphons will live over 10 years.

How to choose a drainage device?

The product is simply arranged, and it is easy to disassemble it to check the absence of marriage. It should not have defects on the surface and in threaded connections. Gaskets are applied elastic and lubricated silicone sealant.

It is more difficult to choose a pipe drain, because it has a tough design: its nozzles need to be accurately combined with the holes of the sink and sewer bed.
In the presence of problems with a free place or an uncomfortable location of the pipes will save the position.
For the kitchen sink, it is better to take drain with smooth walls, as corrugations are quickly clogged with pollution.
If there is no place at all under the sink, you should choose a special.

To mount the device for draining you need to purchase a silicone sealant without odor. Acid formulations will not fit.

Replacing siphon

The process of replacing the siphon under the sink consists of such steps:

Dismantling of an old plum. Work is performed above the bucket. A rag is prepared in advance, which immediately close the hole in the sewage tube to avoid unpleasant odor.

After dismantling, remnants of contaminants are removed and the sewage pipe is cleaned.
Threaded connections on the siphon housing are checked on the absence of burrs. If they are, they are neatly cut with a knife. It is also necessary to make sure that all gaskets are in place.
The drain sink grille is aligned and installed on a gasket or sealant so that there is no leakage.
Thick gasket is put on the sink output, after which it is pressed from below in the center of the drain hole of the shell. A screw is inserted into the central hole and fits the screwdriver so that the drain grille and the output tightly pressed against the sink.
Collect the flask of the device. From below, you should install a rubber gasket and fasten the lid. On the withdrawal of the washing is put on a cape nut and a cone-shaped gasket. The upper part of the siphon is satisfied with it, after which the output nut is screwed to it. Such a connection is reliably and tight. It is often used in pressure systems. With the flask connected the tube release.

The sewage pipe should be dried and install a cuff, lubricated with sealant.
The drain end of the release pipe is adjusted in size, then inserted into the sewage pipe, where its sealing cuff occurs.
For some time, water is supplied to the sink to test the tightness of the compounds.

Repair of siphon

If the drain device begins to leak, there may be several fault reasons:

poor-quality installation - improper docking of compounds, powered thread, not to the end of tightened cape nuts, the use of unsuitable gaskets;
blockage;
wear of seals - with the time of the gaskets are hard and compressed, so they begin to pass water;
damage - cracks or chips.

For repair, it is necessary to install the container for draining the liquid below.

With unsatisfactory assembly quality, the product is simply required to disassemble and collectively.
When casting the bottom of the siphon, you need to unscrew, then clean the sewage cable or wire.
In a place where the drain flows, the rubber seal changes to a new, lubricated with a vaseline or liquid soap. At the same time, the joints are processed by sealant.

Tip from Plumbing: If there is no possibility to buy new gaskets, old seals need to be abundantly lubricated with sealant or silicone glue and install in place. It is possible to let water after pouring the material. This connection will last for several years.

Question: What tools are needed to repair the crane? Answer:

It will take only a plumbing (or ordinary adjustable) key to which you can unscrew the crane of any sizes. In order not to damage the chrome plating of the crane, wrap the dischargeable knot with a piece of dense tissue. If the upper part of the crane is unscrewed, it will help the following: wrap the crane with a rag and sprinkle with hot water. As a result of heating, the metal will expand slightly, and the screw connection can be leaving the connector. Sometimes it can be enough to spin another tighter the top of the crane to split both threads.

Question: How to eliminate leaking crane? Answer:

In this case, it is necessary to change the gaskets between the unscrewing upper part of the crane and still mounted housing. First of all, water should be blocked. To do this, turn down to stop both valves on pipes that feed cold and hot water in the apartment (usually called risers). The riser can be in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Get on time with a set of different gaskets and seals so that you can repair in one working reception.

Remove the old gasket, insert a new one and, if necessary, secure it with the nut.

Question: When changing the crane, it was found that the screw, which was fixed by the crane handle, rusted. What is the reason? Answer:

Any steel screws installed in the plumbing should be replaced with brass even if they have an anti-corrosion coating. If there are no brass screws, remove the steel screw, lubricate with thick lubricant (solidol, technical vaseline, pork fat, etc.) and wrap again. If a rusty screw is not unscrewed, then the handle of the crane (the specialists are more often called the flywheel) will have to cut or discern. So it is better to avoid such situations.

Question: What is the "pumping of water" in the mixers? Answer:

So often refer to the phenomenon when when the crane head is opened, we will say cold from the gland. The cause of the problem is a break of the jumper in the middle of the layer laying. Another reason is the occurrence of through sink in the middle total wall of the mixer. The formation of such a sink is possible during operation, although the poor-quality mixer sometimes comes directly from the factory. That is why when the crane head is opened in the mixer above the bathroom, hot and cold water begins to be "confused". Little this will be the same for the nearest neighbors. How to find a place breakdown? Discharge the hot water valve in your apartment and open the cold water crane head on your mixer. If, after a long-lasting water, the water will continue to flow hot or warm water, then the malfunction from the neighbors. To determine exactly who from the neighbors there was a breakdown, followed by them to repeat the experiment with the closure of one of the valves.

Question: How to eliminate flowing at the site of the sewer pipe? Answer:

If there was flowed on the connection site, it is necessary to cover the entire joint on the circumference on top of cement sealing to cover with gumiarabic (liquid glass), more known in everyday life as an office silicate glue. After that, the cracks in the cement will be guaranteed "Zaladans".

Question: How to eliminate stools in the drain devices of the bath (sinks)? Answer:

Here, as in medicine, it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. Prevention is needed. First, you need to use additional lattices for drain holes of the sink and bath. Secondly, one or twice a month was washing with steep boiling water. To clean the break, you can apply a steep solution of soda or liquor, a special means "Mole". From the bath (sinks), there are one of these funds from the bath (sinks) and poured one of these funds by 1-1.5 hours, after which it is poured with hot water and pump it with it. You can also clean the drain, by connecting the flexible hose to the blowing hole of the vacuum cleaner and tightly leaning it into the drain hole. For better sealing, the hose is wrapped with a wet cloth or produce a special rubber washer. Eliminate the clogging of the drain can also be with the help of a jet of water, under the pressure of the supplied from the crane. To do this, the rubber hose of the appropriate length is put on the crane, and the hose's joint with the drain hole is also tightly seal (to increase the pressure). If it fails to eliminate the problem of any of the methods described above, the siphon is removed, depending on where the blockage occurred, and remove the drain with the help of rigid wire or cable.

Question: How is the flue tank built into the wall repaired? Answer:

Disassemble the wall does not have to. And not at all because these tanks do not break. Sooner or later you will have to repair them. The point is different: inside such a tank is otherwise arranged. There are no rubber pears, no rusted wires, but stands inside the built-in tank, a drainage device. And nothing more. Accordingly, only this block can fail. It is easy and simply removed through the hole for the built-in tank buttons. Simply put, if something happened, you need to remove the button and take the block through this hole. But, most importantly, after repair, the item simply goes back. No additional installation is required.

Question: Although there are no visible leaks, nevertheless, the puddles of water are often formed on the floor under the wash tank. How to deal with it? Answer:

The abolished washbasin tanks are often covered with water droplets, since the temperature difference between the warm room and cold water, the cooling tank, contributes to the formation of moisture on its surface. In other words, the tank "sweats". But this is not an indicator of a malfunction of some node in the tank. Need a tank with foam insulation. Or simply periodically wipe the tank and the floor.

Question: How to replace your taffeta? Answer:

Taffeta is a wooden board on which the toilet is installed. Here are some recommendations for replacing taffeta. For the manufacture of new taffes, measure the size of the old or define these dimensions on the excavation. The taffeta is made of wellpring durable wood. Anchors are installed in the bottom of the taffeta, ensuring the reliability of its fastening in the floor. The simplest anchors can serve nails robbed in checker and protruding from taffeta by 20-30 mm. The semi-semittate is flooded with a cement-sandy solution, in which the taffeta with anchors is treated, flush with the floor. After setting the solution, the toilet is fixed with screws that need to be lubricated with a tavot (or any other lubricant) so that they are subsequently dismissed. It is desirable day or two not to render side loads on the toilet.

Question: What to do, if water flows badly from the sink and bath? Answer:

This usually occurs as a result of clogging of siphons or tap sewage pipes with irritable items (hair, pieces of fabric, etc.), as well as from accumulation on the walls of the tap pipes of the dirt and fat layers. A small jam can be eliminated by using Vanutuz. To do this, it must be installed above the release so that the edges of the cowhide bowl are tightly pressed against the sink surface (or bath). In the sink, you need to pour water so that it closes the cup of vanza and then rumbles with sharp shoes of the handle, pressing it to the surface of the sink. If the plot is removed, water will leave the shell with the formation of a funnel over the release.

If a similar operation is done with a bathroom, which has overflow that protects it from overflow, then when pumping the vehicle, the hole should be closed, pressing the wet cloth. In the event that you cannot clear the flow, you need to open and wash the siphon.

Question: How to clean the siphon? Answer:

To do this, unscrew its bottom cover (sump) and a long softer, wire or screwdriver clean the inside of the siphon.

How to eliminate siphon leak

Before unscrewing the sump, it is recommended to substitute for a siphon of a pelvis or a bucket so as not to blur the floor of the bathroom or kitchen. After cleaning the siphon, the sump is twisted into place, pre-making sure that the rubber sealing ring did not fall out of it. Often after such cleaning, the siphon begins to leak on the spot where the thread connects the ciphon body and the sump. The fact is that rubber sealing rings are deformed over time, so after disassembling the siphon, you need to replace the old ring new. It happens that the replacement of the sealing ring will not help, then you can use the sealant, making them the junction between the siphon and the sump. If the sealant did not turn out, you can use plasticine for this purpose.

Question: How to eliminate leak from under the sink? Answer:

If water drip out from under the sink, it means that something happened to the rubber sealing ring located between the surface of the shell and the release: it is either stretched, or cracked, or moved from its place due to the fact that a cape, fastening release to Sink, poorly spinning. If water flows from under the bath, it means that the same thing happened, or the overflow tube burst. In the latter case, a new overflow is installed in the place of the burst.

Water flows from under the sink.

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The problem at first glance is nothing - in the kitchen under the sink began to form puddles. Detected to flow from under the rubber laying under the sink. Disassembled - It turned out to be crumbling, which, together with the screw, fasten the drain hole to the siphon. I purchased a new gasket for every case (although the old one does not have signs of physical wear), replaced the screw and the nut, collected. Leak from under the gasket continues. Experimed with the old gasket, turned over, put two gaskets at once - leak continues. I would be grateful to the Soviets.

Do you have a siphon or sewage accidentally not clogged? Just there pressure in principle should not be. Look no cracks in the siphon or plastic nuts. When I fix the siphon to the sink, I do not hope much on the gaskets, additionally use silicone sealant.

Pay attention to the intensity of the flow. If simply the pipes are wet it can be condensate, and if it really dripping, it makes sense to disassemble the entire system once again and collect dry. Silicone sealant will be very weltering, there is a leak on the joints.

We had a similar story, but the water did not flow, and sometimes gathered.

What to do if the siphon under the sink

Everything could not understand where she was coming from there and the mixer like a new one put and the hoses kept well and were always dry. It turned out that in the wash hole for the mixer is greater than the mixer itself and the gap was small. When the dishes of the soapy splashes fell into this gap and proceeded under the sink.

For the advice, I coped. Now the problem is different - water flows from under the hussac. The cartridge in the mixer has not changed so long ago. Yes, and is it? After pulled out the cartridge - everything, no longer disassembled in the mixer. Already pounded, and twisted the key through the cloth twisted. I tried to disassemble the mixer below, where the studs are also a bummer. Maybe he is further and does not intend to understand? In the internet watched the video, so it was said about some horseshoe rubber gaskets in the Gusak area. But maybe this is not my mixer version? Who faced with such a dilemma, clarify.

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Well, even such, it would seem that the eternal element, like draining the sink, can also break and demand replacement. And it would seem, because the ordinary hole, what is there to break something?

But the flow of time is inexorably, and like any plumbing, the drain is also vulnerable before breakdowns.

Various plums

In general, there are various types of drain. One of the most common options in Europe and the United States is a plux that is attached using a large shut-off nut. This is a fairly old attachment method, so it is found in homes, built more than 15 years ago.

Such a drain is attached using a fixing nut. Mastic for plumbing is used as a seal.

Sink.
Plum housing.
Rubber gasket.
Metal washer.
Shuttle nut.
Adapter.
Nut, which is screwed on the plum body.
Shank.

Plastic pipes for plum located under the sink. Such a design will serve for many years and she is not afraid rust.

Pipes for draining with two shells, with a connected cable for a dishwasher. And again the kingdom of plastic.

Of course, this is the old version of the drain, but still quite popular. Another old option is a fixing pad, which is attached using the nut.

Old version of draining fastening using fixing lining and nuts. Requires the use of rubber gaskets and plumbing mastic where the drain borders with the sink.

Sink.
Plum housing.
Sanctuate plumbing mastic.
Rubber gasket.
Flat iron washer.
Protrusions.
Droops in the pad.
Fastener pad.
Screws.
To attach the fastening overlay to the Phase Phase Pump Case wear on the protrusions, after which the screws are tightened.
Adapter.
Nut.
Shank.

Modern precipitation options are a simple composite cup with an extremely simple design.

Construction of modern plum for shell. Mastic for plumbing also does not hurt.

Plum housing.
Plumbing mastic.
Sink.
Gasket.
Cup pad.
Shuttle nut.
Shank washer.
Shank.
Nut for mounting the shank to the plum body.

Connecting pipes for draining the sink passes in 4 simple stages.

Two versions of the sink drain - with a lid lid and perforated surface.

Whatever the variant of the drainage of you was not used, time inexorably leads to the fact that sooner or later the drain begins to leak.

The leak occurs in the place where the drain is attached to the sink. Renate the drain is simple enough.

Eliminate the leak in the sink plumb

Get rid of leakage is easy, but pre-drain should be removed.

First of all, unscrew the nut, which is attached to the drain shank.

To remove the plums with the pad, it is enough to unscrew the locking nut with a tubular key or pliers.

Unscrew the nut that fastens the shank.
Unscrew the locking nut of the drain cup.
Use the pipe key or pliers.
Washer.
Bottom of the shell.
Cup cover.
Unscrew the nut.
Nut shank.
Shank.
Unscrew or tighten the shank.

Pipe key is an indispensable tool that allows removing the drain sink.

Unscrew the nut fixing the drain or fastening screw. If the drain has a construct with a cup, do not do without a pipe key or pliers. When the nut has a too big diameter, you can turn it, laying a piece of wood or chisel and smoothly hitting the hammer. Do not cease and remember that the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise.

Such a plum is fixed with an extremely large nut. You can often unscrew it only using a screwdriver (even better - chisel) and the hammer. However, the pipe key should also work if it should be podnaping.

Metal washer.
Rubber gasket.
Nut for fastening a drain.
Chisel or screwdriver.
To unscrew the nut, rotate it counterclockwise.
Nut.
Unscrew the nut for fastening the shank.
Shank.
P-shaped shutter.

Often, all the drains rotates with the nut. It must be fixed on the spot with a wooden bar, which can be inserted between the wall and the nut. Now consistently follow these steps.

When the nut or screw is unscrewed, everything is simple. Remove the gasket from rubber and metal washer.
Now remove the sink drain itself.
Clean it carefully from mineral sediments and old mastic.
Apply to the place where the drain is installed, a layer of fresh mastic. Now press the plums to it.
Replace the laying and washer again. Sometimes, if they are strongly worn out, it is better to change them.
Tighten the fixing nut or fastening screw.
Clean the remnants of mastic in the sink so that the drain looks beautiful and neatly.

Before twisting the fastener screw, do not forget to use the sealing ribbon, wound it on the threads of the shank fastening.

Finish - now it will not flow to flow.

Repair of the cover of the shell plum

As a rule, the draining in our sinks is closed by a conventional plastic plug, which does not allow any kind of garbage and food waste into the pipe.

However, in the US and Europe there are often sinks, where the plum is closed with a special lifting lid. She opens by pressing the lever, which is located next to the valves of the crane.

This is what the mechanism looks like for lifting the shell plum cover. The lift level of the lid can be adjusted at a fairly wide range.

To adjust, unscrew the screw and move the lever.
To adjust, squeeze the clamp and move the lever.
Sink.
Plum cover.
Nut of the hinge.
Hinged lever.
Lifting lever.
Adjusting screw.
Homest lifting lever.
Spring clip.

An example of a typical drain drain equipped with a lever that allows you to comfortably lift its lid.

The mechanism that lifting the lid is usually mounted for the sink. The lifting lever via the appropriate clamp is connected to the adjustment screw. In this case, the lifting lever is controlled by a hinge lever through the spring. Pressing the hinge lever and provides a lift of the plum.

Lift light can be controlled, the adjustment screw is used for it. If it is loosen, it is enough to move the clamp up either down and choose the position of the lid that you need, after which the screw will fix.

Sometimes the lid is attached directly on the hinge lever, and sometimes she simply lies on a plum.

Covers for draining shell are of a wide variety of types.

Turn and lift the lid to remove it.
Pull the hinge lever and lift the lid.
Raise the hinge lever and remove the lid.
Tilt and turn when lifting.
Iron cover.
Gasket.
Hinged lever.

If the cover is not fixed, then it can be elementary to clean it.

Some covers have a special hook, which it connects with a hinge lever. To remove such a cover, it is enough to turn.

In other models, the lever passes directly through the lid itself, so it is possible to remove it, only by unscrewing the fixing nut of the hinge lever and pulling the lever from the lid. When you turn the nut back, do not forget to take advantage of the sealing mastic or ribbon.

Sink plum cap adjustment

As we have already told in the previous article, in many sinks are not usual inserts, but special lifting covers.

It is very easy to raise such a lid - just press the lever located next to the mixer valves. The process of lifting and lowering the lid is carried out through the spring mechanism hidden under the sink.

Chrome plum cover with a shell lever.

The so-called plunger mechanisms received a lot of distribution when the lever turns on the hinge and, thereby, shifts the lifting lever up either down. At the end of this lifting lever there is a loader closing the drain.

Plum cover lever construction.

Gasket.
The pad located on the drain pipe drain.
Stretch spring.
The lid is closed.
The lid is open.
Overflow.
Gasket.
Thread to change the location of the lever.
Lifting lever.
First nut.
Bath wall.
Plastic element with nuts.
Second nut.
Overflower.
Drain.
Plunger.
Plastic element with thread.
Plum hole.
Nut.
Saddle of the plunger, when the water is blocked.
To the trap, which is under the floor.

Part of the mechanism for lifting a plum cover located under the sink.

As a rule, the cargo must completely close the drain. However, if the water still follows the water, therefore, the hole for the weight is very clouded. It is not difficult to clean it.

Video installation of the mixer on the sink

One plums does not work out - certainly the sink requires a crane, he is a mixer. In this video, it is very detailed to consider the installation of the crane in the kitchen with their own hands.

How to clean the drain hole

Cleaning is often subjected to both the hole and the weight, blocking drain.

Let's see how it can be done.

Unscrew all the screws in the drain hole in the sink.
Remove the entire plunger mechanism from the pipe.
Georgic need to be cleaned, putting it on time in an apple or ordinary vinegar.
The drain itself is simply washed with water.
Now plunger insert in place.
Fasten the drain hole with screws.

Clean the mechanism of lifting the lid.

Unscrew the overlaying of the overflow opening with the bath.
Pull out the lifting lever and plunger from the hole of the overflow pipe.
Thread lifting lever.
Plunger.

Often, water flows into a drain hole for the reason that the weight in the closed position is not reached to the drain hole. You can solve this problem by lengthening the lifting lever.

Replacing and repair of siphon under the sink: 5 useful plumbing tips

It is not necessary to especially cheat, since the possibility of lengthening the lever is provided on it itself. It is enough to unscrew the nuts and move the plastic part of the lever to the desired position.

How to adjust the length of the lifting lever in the mechanism for lifting the plum cover.

To reduce the length, move the nut up, move the plastic element and move up the second nut. To lengthen the lever, all the same actions are performed in the reverse order.
A lifting lever that leads to a hinge lever and is supplied with carvings.
First nut.
Plastic element.
Lever to the plunger.

There are definitely lifting levers of other structures, however, the method of changing the length of the lever remains approximately the same.

Scheme of the lifting mechanism for drain

As for the lifting mechanism, which is used to raise the plum cover, it is shown in the following drawing.

When turning the handle, the spring is compressed, after which the drain hole opens. Otherwise, the spring is released, and the lid opens, blocking the drain. The specific mechanism may differ, but the overall principle of the mechanism remains unchanged.

To open or closes the plum cover, a rotary handle is used.
Turn the handle.
Back view.
Front view.
Gasket.
Overlay for overflow pipe.
A pen.
Earring.
Overflower.
Spring.
Lifting lever.
Pipe wall.
Plum cover.
Sealing ring.
Flange.
Drain.
Rolling lever.
Nut.
To the shutter, which is under the floor.

As a rule, the lower part of the lifting lever is a spring. In this case, the handle with which the lid lock is controlled, interacts with the lifting lever. At the end of this lever there is a spring, which comes into contact with another swing lever.

When turning the knob, the lever presses on the spring, and the lid rises, opening the drain. It is worth turning the handle in the other direction and the pressure drops from the spring, as a result of which the cover "automatically" closes. The device, how to say, is very primitive, but effective.

The mechanism of the lever can also be desired, clean. In addition, often the lid for draining the sink is equipped with a sealing rubber, which is quickly wearing and also requires replacement.

If you raise the lid, the swinging lever is easy to pull out. To put it back, you must carefully turn the lever so that it goes into the horizontal plane of the drain pipe.

The lever is removed up and lifted, inserted in the same way.
Cap.
Flange.
Drain.

To get levers, you need to unscrew the fastening screws in the right places. Then these levers are easily removed, just as you can get the plunger mechanism. To change the strength with which the spring presses on the lever, it is enough to change the length of the lifting lever. To do this, you need to turn the nut, which is attached the spring. As a result, the lid tightly closes the drain hole and no leaks.

Do not forget to clear all the details of the mechanism using a conventional table or apple vinegar, which perfectly dissolves mineral deposits. All levers must move smoothly and without problems.

Lid for drain hole with spring

Continuing the conversation about the lifting covers for the drain of the sink, let's say a few words and about such a variety of their kind as spring covers.

This cover works very simple and convenient. To open it, just click on top. It does not need to use complex lever mechanisms that are very difficult to repair.

The spring cover is surprisingly a simple design, without the need to use levers and other mechanisms.

The lid is closed.
The lid is open.
Click to close the lid.
Washer laying.
Round plum cover.
Spring mechanism.
Round plastic tube.
Click to open the lid.
Mechanism for lifting the lid.
Water flow.
Spring mechanism.
Round tube of plastic.

Designer shell plum cover from blanco. Very simple and affordable solution if you are embarrassed by complex lifting mechanisms described in our article. But the choice of topics and it is good that no one can impose an alien point of view. Choose what you like.

To install such a lid for the sink, it is enough to buy it in any plumbing store. Included with it all the necessary parts are coming, and the cover is installed literally in a few minutes.

The siphon looks like a curved tube, in the sewage of which remains water from the shell. This water is just a hydraulicum hanging on the penetration of unpleasant odors in residential premises. Siphon flows for a variety of reasons. However, the phenomenon is unpleasant and requiring urgent action. So, if a malfunction is observed, it is primarily extremely desirable to block the cranes responsible for the flow of water in the apartment.

The most frequent causes of the flow of the siphon under the sink - incorrect installation of this equipment or not compliance with the rules of operation. For example, when owners neglect the need to clean this sanitary element, it often leads to the fact that the siphon under the sink flows.
With the constant use of plumbing in the siphons, dirt and fat accumulates, they must be cleaned from time to time with special means. Another cleaning option is to simply open the siphon and remove foreign contaminants. Sometimes one siphon can be connected to several items at the same time. For example, on a washing machine, sink and shower. It is important to remember that in this case the cleaning will be required more often than if only one sanitary element was connected.
For the manufacture of the siphon, metal or plastic is most often used. However, today most manufacturers are ready to offer exclusively plastic siphons. Such a design consists of several parts connected by cape devices, the joints of the joints are additionally sealed with rubber gaskets and cuffs. You can collect modern plastic siphon with hands without applying any additional tools. But, unfortunately, plastic is not as durable as the metal and therefore can occur even because of mechanical damage. For leaks, just a small chip or crack is enough, especially if this happens in the articulation places. Skolam can bring a blow, sharp movement, heavy loads on the part, for example, due to poorly attached shell or due to the fact that it is clouded.
Another cause of leaks in a washbasin in the kitchen or bathroom is a factory marriage. It sometimes meets when buying goods on the market or just at the untested manufacturer. In this case, the cracks are chip or simply incorrectly selected parts may be initially, which will ensure flow during operation.
The most common reason why the siphon flows the gaskets are considered. The fact is that used when connecting the parts of the rubber can only be operated. After some time, due to the effects of water of various temperatures, it hardens, sits down, changes the form, and in the end, the siphon arises gaps.

Incorrect installation - one of the most frequent causes of the leakage of the siphon

A spoiled siphon can either be replaced or repaired. But the replacement takes much more time and will require additional costs from the owner. Repair If you want and the availability of some knowledge, you can perform at home with the help of submitted means.

Features of the diagnosis of faulty siphon

Most often, the cause of the leakage is determined after disassembly. By the way, to disassemble and collect siphon is extremely desirable without the use of special tools. Each item after disassembly needs to be inspected and, if necessary, clean from pollution. Spanic keys when assembling a siphon disassembly is better not to use, even if it comes to a metal element, and even more so if plastic. Plastic is quite fragile, the wrench may damage it.

Before disassembling the faulty siphon, it is recommended to take the following measures. Purchase a special means for cleaning drain pipes and fill the mixture into the drain, then rinse with boiling water after a while. It will clearly clean the siphon from pollution and simplifies the disassembly process in the future.

Before disassembling the siphon, it is advisable to consider that it will drip or even leak fluid from it, so it is necessary to stock buckets and rags.
From the smell of sewer gases during disassembly save the plug, which should approach the diameter to the drain pipe where the siphon is mounted. The most commonly found standard diameter - 50 cm.
Also need a liquid soap, they will need to lubricate the rubber cuffs to slightly extend its life.
The next step is to determine the place of water leakage. To do this, with the help of a plug vehicle, all the existing fluid is pumped out, it is rubbed dry, and a hermetically adjacent plug is inserted into the sink.
Next, several liters of water from under the tap are gaining. It is advisable to place a container or a cloth for collecting a liquid before draining the water under the sink so that the water does not pass on the floor, it will help to prevent a possible flood.
Then the plug is removed, and the water goes away, while it is necessary to look at the siphon and mark the place where the liquid flows. Here is suitable for both the marker and photo on the phone.

If the siphon is flowing under the sink - do not forget about the bucket and rags

After determining the place where the malfunction arose, the water supply is overlapped and the siphon can be removed. The plastic option is better to disassemble solely by hand, and when disassembling the metallic can be used power tools. In the metal siphon, the nuts can accumulate to the metal tightly, so their caps are better cut off with a grinder so as not to damage the design, and the remaining fragments simply drill. When the plums are disassembled, it is desirable to wash every item in hot water with soap. No extraneous chemicals should be applied, since there is a risk of damaging the equipment. Purified parts wipe and dried, and then you can start repair.

Methods of elimination of leaks

As a rule, the fixing of the siphon is an easy task. And the materials necessary for this are found in the storage room of almost any housing. Below will be several recommendations on what to do if the siphon proceeds.

Required tools

Plastic siphons are dealt with hands, so no special tools are needed. Although in some cases a screwdriver can be useful, a cable for cleaning drain pipes (a metal brush is also suitable on a long handle or even the most common wocks), well, it is desirable to stock up with a cloth and water tank. To restore the tightness of the spare parts and the location of their connection, silicone glue or sealant will use the composition of the "liquid nails" type, and sometimes even the usual medical bandage.

The leakage of the siphon can be eliminated by "liquid nails"

If a metal siphon has to be disassembled, especially the one that has been exploited for a long time, then such tools like Bulgarian and drill may need. With their power, it will be possible to disassemble the siphon, scaping the hats from the bolts, and then, extended what remains. In order not to damage the metal siphon when disassembling, it is recommended to use the power tools.

Restoration of the tightness of the pads

Erasing or other changes in the layout states can lead to the fact that the siphon will begin to leak. Rubber parts solidified during operation are best replaced. Usually they are in any specialized store. In order for acquired parts to serve longer, they are lubricated with liquid soap or vaseline, which facilitates the installation process.

However, there is no desire or the ability to purchase new gaskets. In this case, you can try to restore old. To restore them it is necessary to lubricate with silicone glue, a sealant or composition, called liquid nails, and then put in place. When the applied composition dries, the plumbing can be used. This measure will extend the life of rubber gaskets for several more years.

Elimination of cracks

If the pipe cracked along the seam, then it is quite simple to repair it. To begin with, the place of the split is cleaned with sandpaper, and then lubricate pre-diluted epoxy glue. If you wish, you can add dyes to the composition used.

When the surface is lubricated, it is wrapped with a medical bandage. This event is performed two or three times. Thus, there are several layers of epoxy glue and bandages on the pipe. Drying time of such a design is about six hours. After drying, the siphon can be placed in place and use plumbing. The pipe strengthened in this way becomes much stronger than what was bought initially.

Compound compaction

Sealing compounds may be needed with a factory marriage or during operation. Sometimes it becomes necessary to further seal the places of the articulation of the details of the siphon. For example, a wrestling thread interferes tightly press the rubber gasket to the hole. In this case, the seal uses the pass or silicone tape. It is important to remove excess seal after fixing the nut. In some cases, with serious damage to the thread, cold welding can be applied, however, it will prolong the service life very short, since the fragile plastic will continue to crumble. In this case, it is better to take care of the acquisition of a new siphon.

Recommendations for the operation and prevention of leaks of siphones

Siphon, like many other household items, needs maintenance. It must be disassembled and cleaned at least once a year. Simultaneously with cleaning it is recommended to check the parts for the presence of losses and other damage. Also at this moment it is worth changing the gaskets or lubricate old sealant.

It is very important to collect a siphon, not allowing the bevels, both during the initial installation and after disassembling to clean. If it is planned for a long time not to use plumbing in the house, then any vegetable oil is added to the drain. It will save rubber parts from drying out, and will serve as an additional barrier from unpleasant odors in the dwelling when all the water evaporates.

It is important to remember that to prevent the contamination of the siphon, it is not worth pouring waste from food, tea welding or even just dirty water, as water will leave, and all other impurities will remain on the walls of the design and will lead to the need for ambulance. Before pouring something into the sink with foreign particles (everything except water, including even ordinary soup), it is necessary to establish a special sitechko, which will protect the siphon from falling out. The stuck particles from the cortex are removed and thrown into the trash.

By the way, when pouring a bold fluid, it is worth considering that fat can also settle and accumulate on the walls of the siphon. Partially saves special chemical mixtures for cleaning drain pipes. Of course, they will not replace a full-fledged cleaning procedure, but they will allow it a little less frequently. The main thing during the use of such household chemicals carefully read and comply with the instructions on the package, otherwise the porcerer does not determine the result.

Forum / plumbing / flowing water from under the sink.

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Boba14yunya 2015.
in 0: 21The at first glance, the tricky - in the kitchen under the sink began to form puddles. Detected to flow from under the rubber laying under the sink. Disassembled - It turned out to be crumbling, which, together with the screw, fasten the drain hole to the siphon. I purchased a new gasket for every case (although the old one does not have signs of physical wear), replaced the screw and the nut, collected. Leak from under the gasket continues. Experimed with the old gasket, turned over, put two gaskets at once - leak continues. I would be grateful to the Soviets.
sergey

June 14, 2015.
in 5: 59, you siphon or sewage accidentally not clogged? Just there pressure in principle should not be. Look no cracks in the siphon or plastic nuts. When I fix the siphon to the sink, I do not hope much on the gaskets, additionally use silicone sealant.
zarabbo.

June 14, 2015.
at 7: Select attention to the intensity of the flow. If simply the pipes are wet it can be condensate, and if it really dripping, it makes sense to disassemble the entire system once again and collect dry. Silicone sealant will be very weltering, there is a leak on the joints.
serge.

June 14, 2015.
in 9: 04Us we had a similar story, but the water did not flow, and sometimes gathered. Everything could not understand where she was coming from there and the mixer like a new one put and the hoses kept well and were always dry. It turned out that in the wash hole for the mixer is greater than the mixer itself and the gap was small. When the dishes of the soapy splashes fell into this gap and proceeded under the sink.
Boba18 June 2015.
at 23: 57 Tips Thank you, coped. Now the problem is different - water flows from under the hussak. The cartridge in the mixer has not changed so long ago.

Error 404

Yes, and is it? After pulled out the cartridge - everything, no longer disassembled in the mixer. Already pounded, and twisted the key through the cloth twisted. I tried to disassemble the mixer below, where the studs are also a bummer. Maybe he is further and does not intend to understand? In the internet watched the video, so it was said about some horseshoe rubber gaskets in the Gusak area. But maybe this is not my mixer version? Who faced with such a dilemma, clarify.

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What to do if the siphon under the sink

Installing a siphon in the sink with your own hands - Installation and Siphon Installation Instructions

It would seem that siphon for washing is a very simple plumbing element, and the installation of a siphon in a sink is a very simple operation. However, as practice shows, many problems arise with a siphon. In most cases, these problems are caused by a non-correct assembly of a siphon and an incorrect installation. This article will describe the installation procedure and the highlights are noted, due to which the siphon may not work correctly or leak.

Siphon consists of three main elements: a part that is fastened to washing, siphon itself and a tube to connect with sewage.

Fig.1.Siphon in disassembled

The first to start the installation of the siphon is from the part that is fixed on the sink.

Fig.2. Drainer

To do this, take a lining, insert the screw into it and placing in the drain hole on the washing.

Fig.3. Drain hole View from the bottom

After that, we retard the response part to this screw.

Fig.4. Mounting a siphon to washing

It should be noted here that the response part is equipped with a special gasket. If the gasket is installed not exactly, this place of the connection will be reduced. To exclude these problems, follow as follows.

Take the resulting part to the screw from hand, it is necessary to ensure that the gasket lay in its place, and did not shift. After the connection is collected, it is necessary to make a suspender. It should be done with a screwdriver, i.e. It is necessary to twist the screw, and the response part should not be moving. Otherwise, the gasket can be shifted and the tightness of the connection will be disturbed.

Fig.5. Siphon assembly first stage

In this nozzle, there is also a gasket, which should not be forgotten, otherwise the connection will flow.

After that, it is necessary to install the pipe connections with sewage. Depending on the diameter of the sewer pipe and the diameter of the nozzle, various rubber spacers can be applied, which must be taken care of during the purchase of a siphon.

Fig.6. Rubber insert in the sewer

The spacer is installed in the sealing pipe instead of the sealing ring existing there. Those. The sealing ring from the sewer pipe must be removed, and install the spacer in its place.

The last stage of the installation of the siphon is a compound of a siphon with a sink and with a sewering nozzle. In these places, the compound applies cone-shaped gaskets.

Fig.7. Connecting a siphon to sewage

In order for the connection does not flow to be appropriate as follows. It is necessary to wear a moist nut on the nozzle, then the gasket with a narrow end towards the siphon. Next, install the nozzle in the cavity of the siphon and tighten the nut.

If you just insert the nozzle into the siphon and tighten the nut, then the likelihood that the gasket is very high and the connection will not be sealed.

The latter for which you should pay attention to when installing the siphon in the sink is on the position of the siphon relative to the washing, i.e. how much strongly in the siphon includes a pipe attached in the sink.

Fig.8. Asphon assembly and installation

This pipe should be included in the siphon no more than 5 cm. If the nozzle is larger or for the entire length, it will block the flowing cross section of the siphon. As a result, the siphon will quickly be clogged, and water will be bad from the washing.

How to eliminate leak siphon?

Appeads siphon under the kitchen sink - what to do?

Where to start elimination of leaks
If the pipe flows at the connection site
Elimination of leakage at the junction of pipes with cement
Install bandage
Using a wooden clina in the bathroom
Popping pipe in the toilet
What to do if plastic pipe flows
If metal pipe flows

Pipe leaks from time to time accompany their operation: most often the causes of such phenomena are corrosion or deformation. Due to the use of polypropylene, polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes, the problem with corrosion was solved, but the threat of mechanical damage remains relevant and in this case.

Where to start elimination of leaks

The standard situation was discovered that the pipe flows: what to do in such cases? First of all, it is important to accurately determine the place where the pipe flows. If the washing, a washbasin or a plums of the bath occurs, the cause of this phenomenon is usually a poor-quality connection of the drain hole, a siphon and an input of the pipe.

In this case, to eliminate the problem, you will need to pull all the threaded connections by which the sewer tube occurs. Sometimes it helps to replace the gaskets on these joints.

If the pipe flows at the connection site

Using the method of grinding for cast iron pipelines

When locally discovered on places, the compound of cast-iron sewer pipes should be prepared for a rather complicated problem of failover (read: "How to close the crack in the cast-iron sewer pipe - reliable and proven ways"). In this case, much depends on the quality of the docking work.

If a crown is carried out, the procedure for the following:

Clean the docking place until pure metal appears.
Bring the gap using lead cones. This is done with a blunt chisel, as a soft lead in this case is quite easy to compact the gap.

What if the pipe in the toilet flows:

Clean the joint from the old solution, with the help of a narrow chisel and the hammer. It is necessary to act carefully not to damage the pipe.
After removing the old seal, the slot must be well cleaned.
For the new clogging, the scenar sawn strands and aqueous solution of cement are used, in the ratio of water 10: 1. Before the driving, the strands are treated with a special substance, which includes cement and asbestos, in the 7: 3 ratio. During kneading, some water is added: the finished solution should be like plasticine.

Elimination of leakage at the junction of pipes with cement

What to do if the pipe flows, and on hand, of all possible materials there are only cement?

In such a situation, work is carried out as follows:

Cleaning the place of docking pipes is carried out, with the mandatory extracting of the old seal. In order not to damage the pipes, it is better to stay from the use of heavy tool.
Next, you need to get a broad gauze bandage. Cement is mixed with water so that it turns out Cashier. The resulting solution is immersed by the bandage.
The same cement solution is handled the location of the pipes, after which the bandage is wound there.
Frozening the sealing usually continues within two hours, after which it can be shut from sandpaper and paint.

In cases where leak was detected directly on the body of the pipe, it will be necessary for a completely different algorithm of actions.

Install bandage

If a pipe in the bathroom proceeds, the problem of temporary solution is to install a bandage. Before that, it is necessary to determine from what kind of damage will have to deal (fistula or leakage), and where it is precisely located.

The lining of the rubber bandage occurs in this way:

A rubber gasket is installed on the emergency tube.
After tight pressed to the pipe, the clamp is applied.

The clamp without problems can be purchased in the store, but it happens that at the right moment it does not turn out at hand. In this case, the clamp can be made independently, or apply wire instead, harness, rope or hose.

Bandage tires can perform old rubber boots, from which the top is cut off. The same applies to the rubber hose, the cycling chamber. The width of the bandage is made depending on the diameter of the repaired pipe.

Using a wooden clina in the bathroom

It happens when a large pressure is formed, and there is no possibility of overlapping water: how to make the pipe does not flow? Bandage in such a situation usually does not help.

If the leakage was formed due to fistula, it can be eliminated using a small wooden cavoy as a wedge. The size of its island is done the same as the resulting hole in the pipeline.

Praying with a sharp end insert into the fistula, after which they are clogged with a hammer. This temporary measure allows you to win the time required to call the emergency service.

Popping pipe in the toilet

The leakage in the pipe can also be eliminated by adhesive bandage.

What to do if the siphon is flowing under the sink

The procedure in this case is:

Water in the pipe overlaps the valve.
To dry the damaged area, you will need a hairdryer.
Selection of dense flexible material sealing the desired dimensions is carried out. It may be rubber, plastic, fiberglass, etc.
To glue the manufactured patch in place of the course, the epoxy glue will be required.

When using a fiberglass sliced \u200b\u200bpiece should be enough to wind the pipe at least 5-6 times. The width of the bandage should exceed the diameter of the pipe at least one and a half times. Application of glue on the bandage is more convenient to carry out a brush or spatula.

Washing a bandage tissue to the pipeline, it is fixed with a screed or a clamp. Drying glue usually occurs 24-72 hours. The air temperature should be at least + 15 degrees.

What to do if plastic pipe flows

If the tube in the bathroom flows on the pipeline plastic, the gluing method is usually used for repair. For this, the tube segment is taken with the desired diameter, followed by cutting it in the longitudinal direction. I cut off the longitudinal area from the finished cut (approximately 1/3 of the surface), use the resulting gap to put on the damaged pipe. Also: "How to eliminate leaks in a plastic pipe - options for seelings."

The repaired area is predetermined, degreases and lubricated with the necessary amount of glue. To fix the patch before drying uses the clamp.

If metal pipe flows

It often happens that the tube in the bathroom flowed: what to do, so as not to flood the apartment and the neighbors from the bottom?

In this case, in this case as follows:

First of all, you need to block the water supply.
Cut off the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe pipeline with the help of a wheelchair or "Bulgarian". The cut is made with an indent of 30 cm in both directions.
Split the threaded connection of the pipeline with the place of damage.
A thread is cut on the sliced \u200b\u200bstationary end of the pipe. To hold the end of the pipe, it is convenient to use the gas key.
An end-based coupling is screwed down.
It is measured, which length should be a new pipe, taking into account the threaded area.
For the manufacture of inserts, the pipe is used exactly the same diameter as old. The made cut should be equipped with a carvings on both ends.
To connect a new section with a pipeline, a coupling is used, to hold which the pipe key can be applied.

Before cheating the coupling, it is necessary to make a sealing of the threaded sections of the segment, using the flax, sealing the smelting, or a special tape-fumka. In addition to repairing metal pipelines, the leaks on pipes from another material can be removed in the same way. In the event that there is no clarity, what to do if the pipe flows, it is best for help to professional plumbers.

There is a siphon under the bathroom - a problem that can poison your life.

The causes of leaks can be enough. We will look at the reasons why the siphon flows and their elimination methods in the bathroom.

To begin with, we'll figure it out that it is the reason for the appearance of puddles under the bathroom, in what situations they arise and how saturated it happens.

Siphon leakage under the bath

Siphon flows under the bathroom - reasons

The most common of them are as follows:

Toraic drained bath

A sealing ring made of rubber, i.e. cracked, stretched either moved from place due to poorly twisted nut.
Burned pipe overflow.
Not tightly twisted the siphon after its cleaning.
The device of the siphon for the bath is contaminated. You can read about the water shutter device in the article on our website "Installing and replacing a bath siphon".
Sealing rings were deformed.
The joint of the plum and overflow pipes.
The compounds are not sealed due to the fact that the thread is torn and the gaskets are damaged.

Bath Siphon Design

Siphon flows in the bathroom: flow rates

1. If the ring has burst, it also replaced it to a new one.

2. If the overflow tube bursts, then replace it by installing a new one. On how to remove the siphon from the bath and change its items on new also read in the article on our website "Installing and replacing a siphon for a bath."

3. If the ring moves, then - correct and tighten the nut well.

4. If the siphon is contaminated, then you must do the following:

To dirt did not hit the floor, put the pelvis under the siphon or some suitable container for collecting fluids.
Unscrew the shutter nut and carefully remove the siphon flask (bottom cover) so as not to damage the integrity of the connection and thread.
Carefully clean the inside of the siphon using a long wire or a screwdriver to remove the flare and the entire garbage that has accumulated on the walls of the water shutter.
Tighten the bottom cover in the reverse sequence. Important! Make sure the ring is in the same place.

5. If the sealing rings have changed, it can occur due to the cleaning of the siphon. And return the siphon in place as it was long before the present form, you can not. Therefore, it is better to change the siphon when it is cleaned.

How ? Refer to the advice of experienced on our website!

Often, the replacement of the rings does not help. Then it is to smear the silicone sealant of the joint between the siphon and the lower lid.

6. If the siphon flows under the bathroom on the site of the drain and overflow pipe, then we close the joint on the entire circumference of the joint on top of cement sealing with liquid glass, i.e. the connecting silicate adhesive. So, you reliably close the cracks in the cement.

7. If the connections of the siphon are not sealed, then reflect their sealant. And also additionally, "see" the threads of pakrels or a special silicone ribbon, if it is easily adjacent. And then - dear threads and screw the part.

Repair of the siphon is completed