Features of the connection of the warm floor to the thermostat. Temperature controller for heating boiler (temperature controller) Room thermostat connections

Room thermostat

Thermostat is an automatic device required to regulate the operation of the boiler equipment. It reads the air temperature in the room and serves the "team" to the boiler, reducing or increasing its power. Modern boiler equipment, as a rule, has built-in programmers. But there are situations when connecting additional equipment is independent. Consider how to connect the thermostat to the gas boiler.

Adjusting boiler equipment

You can adjust the operation of the gas boiler in two ways - manually or automatically using a room thermostat. Consider how it happens in practice. The temperature of the air is affected by the temperature of the coolant in the system. Its increase or decrease provides a comfortable microclimate with the best temperature indicators.

After reaching the coolant of a given temperature, the boiler is turned off. When the indicator is reduced - turns on. In the event of a change in the temperature delta outside and inside the building, the boiler will have to reprogram. These manipulations are held throughout the heating season, so manual adjustment is not the most convenient option.

Note! Connecting the room programmer allows you to fully solve the problem. All temperature data will be read by sensors, and the boiler will work on a given program.

The programmer installation allows you to solve another important problem. With manual adjustment, the boiler works in constant short-term shutdown inclusions. Start is carried out for a short period of time - about 10 minutes. The circulation of the coolant in the system is usually provided with pumping equipment. Moreover, it will work regardless of whether the heater is turned on or not.

All this significantly increases electricity consumption. In addition, such a mode of operation does not most effect on the durability of the aggregate.

What does the thermostat give?

Thermostat is an automatic programmable device. The user sets a comfortable room temperature on it. With a decrease in temperature, the programmer automatically turns on the boiler. The trigger threshold can be different and depends on the instrument model. On average, the sensors are triggered by lowering the temperature indicators by 0.25 degrees.

After the automatic power on the boiler, the coolant begins to heat up, and the air temperature rises. When the specified indicators are reached, the programmer turns off the boiler. At first glance, it may seem that there is no difference with manual control. In fact, there is one important difference, a lot affecting the economy of heating. Turning off the boiler, the thermostat will automatically turn off the circulation pump.

Schematic scheme

Re-enabling equipment will occur after reaching the air threshold threshold of the sensors. Since the room thermostat reacts to the air temperature, and not the coolant, the inclusion frequency of the boiler is significantly reduced compared to manual adjustment. This is explained by the fact that the heated air cools much slower than the water in the system. In simple language, it is not so important how much the batteries are cool - while the room will not turn on the room, the boiler and the pump.

There will be no boiler and in other cases:

Heating room with sunbeams.
Reducing the temperature delta.
Increase the number of people and, as a result, an increase in air temperature.
Obtaining heat through fencing structures, etc.

As the practice of using thermostats showed, they allow you to save up to 30% of energy. With such indicators, you can talk about the energy-efficient heating system, reduce the cost of ensuring the comfort of home and fuel economy.

Installation and Connection

Connection scheme

Experts recommend installing room thermostats in residential premises. Their installation, for example, in the kitchen, in the lobby, the boiler room will lead to violations in the system triggering. It is advisable to choose either the coldest room, for example, an angular or room where a large number of people are most often going.

Next to the thermostat should not be sources of heat - radiators and additional heaters. There should not be straight sun rays on it. Not the best place for installation on draft. Carefully you need to mount the regulators next to the electrical appliances emitting a considerable amount of heat. All this is the so-called thermal interference that interferes with the normal program of the programmer.

Turning on and off the boiler occurs with the relay. Modern gas boilers regardless of their manufacturer and pattern features have a connection point for a thermostat through which heating and cooling is controlled. You can connect the device using the terminal on the boiler at the desired point or using the thermostat cable included in the package. The method of connecting additional equipment can be found from the technical passport of the boiler, where there is not only a description, but also all the necessary schemes.

The thermostat connection is performed in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. As a rule, in the technical documentation for the boiler there is a corresponding section. In general, the installation of an additional device does not cause difficulties, so you can make it yourself.

Setting

After connecting the device must be configured. Instructions for the thermostat will come to the rescue. As a rule, on the front panel of the programmer there are buttons with which it is set to configure, as well as microswitters. Energy is needed for the operation of programmable equipment. Thermostators work from ordinary batteries.

Room mechanical

Using switches you can control:

Heating and air conditioning.
Sensor trigger delay time. For example, with a short-term draft, the sensor will detect a decrease in temperature, as a result of which the boiler should turn on. A trigger delay will avoid false inclusions.
Temperature fluctuations. For example, temperature fluctuations are set to 0.5 degrees. This means that the device will turn on the boiler when the parameter is dropped by 0.25 degrees, and turns off it when the indicator is exceeded to the same 0.25 degrees.

Use the buttons is the optimal and economical temperature. Optimal (comfortable) temperature will be maintained during the daytime. At night, the indicator will decline, ensuring savings and not allowing fuel recalculation. There are pre-installed programs in thermostators. If necessary, the user can choose one of them for normal operation of the heating system. The number of such programs varies depending on the model of the programmer.

Advantages of automation

Automation for boiler equipment is a choice of people who need an energy efficient heating system. Installing the cheapest programmer will ensure savings at least 15%.

In addition, the automation has many other advantages:

Control Panel

Solving the problem of the tact of the heating device - unreasonably frequent inclusions and shutdowns.
Installation of accurate temperature mode - optimal / economical.
Easy installation and settings.
Facilitate the operation of the boiler.
Improving the reliability of the system.
The ability to set thin settings.

Only the most obvious advantages of automation are listed here. With their practical advantages can only be found during operation. The only thing that should not be noted is to save on the installation of the thermostat it is impractical. This is simple and inexpensive equipment will significantly save on heating. For the cold regions of Russia, such savings are very significant.

Conclusion

The thermostat is an important element of autonomous heating systems. It allows you to automatically work the entire network and avoid overseas of fuel. This simple device is a pledge of durable work and boiler, and the entire engineering network. The installation of the thermostat does not represent anything complicated. Focusing on the description and schemes shown in the instructions for the boiler and automatic device, you can connect and configure yourself without referring to the specialists.

Already long ago ceased to be some kind of wonder. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to such a method of heating premises, planning its use in conjunction with the classic heating system or even instead of it. Benefits A lot is both efficiency, and special comfort, and the optimal distribution of heat in the size of the room.

If you compare two main types of "warm floors", and, then the second is much easier and cheaper in the arrangement, it is easier to set up and operate. Many scares the high cost of electricity. But this criterion is sufficiently conditional, if the apartment or the house is warmly insulated, and the operation of the heating system is competently organized. The control function of the electric "warm floor" is placed on a special device - thermostat. It is a mandatory element of the system, and the level of created comfort and efficiency of operation will depend on its correct operation.

The installation of such a "brain" of the system is not at all difficult task. Let's figure it out how to connect the warm floor to the thermostat.

What is the thermoregulation of "warm sex" need?

Literally a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly operating control system for electric "warm floors."

Such a heating system can not be simply included in the network and operate according to the principle "than warmer - the better." The heating temperature of the surface is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed the maximum of +27 degrees in residential premises. Several above it can be in bathrooms and shower, in corridors or hallways, but also within + 30 ÷ 33 degrees. And why?

First, the level of comfortable perception of the head of the human legs from the bottom and lies within up to 25 ÷ 27 degrees. At higher temperatures, especially exceeding the normal body temperature, it is clearly "soldering". And the feeling of pleasant heat is replaced by obvious discomfort.

Secondly, excessively strong heating negatively acts on the finishing floor covering. Even those varieties that are designed to operate in a complex with a heating system have the upper bounds of permissible temperatures. Otherwise, deformation processes may begin due to excessive linear expansion. Drying, discrepancies of seams, damage to castle compounds and other unpleasant phenomena are observed.

Finally, the question of rational spending expensive electrical energy was extremely important. In a well-distant system of "warm sex", with high-quality thermal insulation of overlapping and all the premises in general, the heating elements work very limited time. The example is presented in the diagram below.

Not only is the total consumption even in such continuous mode of operation - it is very slightly. Savings are also achieved by the exact setting of modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it really needs.

All these control functions are just takes on a special device - thermostat.

Varieties of thermostators for electric "warm floors"

Temperature regulators are compact devices designed for installation in standard convergence (embedded models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To work in warm floors systems, they must be completed with a thermal sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostators have a built-in thermal sensor, which tracks the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually applied in cases where the electrical heating system becomes the main source of heat. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting a remote thermal sensor and using the mode of operation "by sex".

Prices for a warm floor

warm floor

All variety of modern thermostators can be divided into three groups:

Electromechanical devices are the simplest in design and use. And, it is clear, the most inexpensive at its cost.

All controls of such devices are usually limited to the inclusion key and the adjacent temperature wheelchair. The simplest indication is envisaged - the LED saying whether the power is included on the heating elements at the current moment.

The advantages of such devices are simplicity and available price. But the accuracy of the insertion of the temperature regime can "chrome" - however, it is quickly solved by the user at an intuitive level. And the second disadvantage, more important, can be considered the absence of programming modes programming. That is, sensitive savings of electricity consumption achieve with an electromechanical thermostat will not work.

The second group is electronic devices equipped with a digital display and buttons (sensors) to accurately set the desired heating temperature.

Such instruments are certainly more convenient in operation, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory is provided. Apparently, this circumstance is just limiting their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical "fellow". But it is also not possible to achieve real saving energy consumption with them.

The third group is already "smart" thermostators, the functionality of which there are a lot of options. They usually have a built-in temperature sensor - it is possible to switch control modes "by floor" and "by air". But the most important thing is the thermostat can be programmed into several modes of operation and in time during the day, and by days, taking into account the weekdays and weekends.

For example, the floor is heated in the morning to the lifting of the owners and remains in this state until their work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum necessary temperature value - spend the gap energy there is no need. But the most comfortable conditions will be created to the arrival of tenants home again.

Such cycles can be programmed several during the day. And taking into account the schedule of its work - in advance to make a weekend, when the heating modes are different. There is always the possibility and adjust the specified installations if one or other changes in the family's lifestyle occurred. Or simply - temporarily go to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the device's memory, and it is possible to return to them at any time.

Modern models, in addition, can be equipped with remote control from the console, or even remote, on the Internet or GSM communication channels.

Most of the models are on sale are designed to manage a "warm floor" system in one room. But if the conditions allow, you can also purchase a two-channel device. It is able to carry out independent heating control in adjacent premises. It is completed with two remote thermal sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating contours from one suburban power line.

You can still add that except for embedded and overhead devices, there are also thermostat with installation on a DIN rail.

Prices for thermostators

heavy-floor thermostat

But special convenience for operation in the conditions of an apartment or at home is not visible. Is that - there is no need to pull the power line to the placement of the thermostat - it is also in the distribution cabinet. But it is more problems with the gasket of a signal cable from the thermal sensor and the "cold ends" from the heating cable or mat. So winnings - doubtful. And all the room regulators have enough accurate design. So do not spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, in groups or switches.

General principles for connecting thermostators to electric warm floor

Optimal place for thermostat

This device placed on the wall in a convenient place for the user - so that the installation of modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules-recommendations that should be followed by:

The thermostat should not be located on the traditional path of drafts. Do not put it in the walls of the wall, on which the straight sunny rays come from the window. This rule will all be relevant, if the device is equipped with a built-in thermal sensor. That is, it is possible to operate the system with an estimate of the temperature "by air".
As a rule, these devices do not have on the outer walls, that is, in contact with the street.
The height of the instrument above the floor level is at least 400 mm. The upper limit is not regulated. But raising the thermostat above the line of view of the average by the growth of a person is simply unreasonable.
If the warm floor is placed in a room with high humidity (bathroom, shower, sauna, etc.), then the thermostat should be taken into an adjacent room. The buildings of most devices do not have a proper class of protected from direct injection of water splashes from steam exposure.
The location of the thermostat on the wall can depend to a certain extent and on the length of the terminal signal cable of the thermal sensor. The thermal sensor itself should be located at least 500 mm from the wall, in the center between the adjacent twists of the heating cable. The exception is film "Warm floors" in which the head of the thermal sensor should have to be on a black carbon heating strip, also on its center and on the same distance from the wall.

For an embedded thermostat (on the scheme - pos.1) in the wall, the nest is cut into the usual peavercraft with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most of the masters recommend applying not a standard peavering with a depth of 45 mm, but with a larger depth - 60 mm. This is in order for the thermostat body and all the wire connected to the terminals of the wires fragilely fit in it.

In this, the dedicated power line should be headed, taking into account the capacity of the planned load. As a rule, for electric "warm floors", there is enough cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm², which is calmly withstands the load to 3.5 kW. The line should be protected in a distribution shield by 16 amps. (There is definitely copper wires - aluminum for home for a long time "outside the law").

From the conversion vertically to the floor, the stabings are cut (pos. 2). It will place "cold ends", connected through coupling (pos. 3) with heating cable or mats, and a thermal sensor cable. The depth and width of the stages usually make such that two corrugated pipes are fitted with a diameter of 10 mm. In one of them, the power wires will be arranged - "cold ends", just for security reasons. And the second tube is designed for the thermal sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (pos. 4) up to the point of its installation.

This installation is explained by the fact that the thermal sensors are out of time. And to be the possibility of replacement, it is placed in the pipe. His cable is rather tough, and it can be pushed into a significant length in this channel.

On the floor, the tube with a thermal sensor is openly located if it is planned to fill the screed with a thickness of 35 ÷ 50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In the same cases, the tile will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems suggest such a way of installation), for and on the surface of the floor, the stages are cut.

The corrugated tube is not used only with film electric "warm floor". There is not expected tie, that is, the replacement of the sensor failed can be carried out by removing the floor covering section. Yes, the temperature readings here are somewhat different - directly from the heating element. It will dismantle below.

The end of the corrugated tubes so that the solution does not hit it during the pouring of the screed, jamming the plug (pos.5). The plug can enter the kit, or they are made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.

The illustration below shows a set of thermostat. In addition to the thermal sensor, not only the segment of the corrugated house, but also the plug to it.

Moreover, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer complies with a set of brass stub. It is in it that the head of the thermal sensor should be logged, that is, the thermally sensitive element itself. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal of the testimony that the sensor will be removed in this case are more correct.

The thermostat connection circuit

Any thermostat if it was purchased in the store, accompanied by a detailed instruction for its connection. But with the switching of wires on the terminals of the device, it is quite possible to figure outself and by itself, focusing on the marking of contacts. Despite the large variety of models, most preserves approximately the same diagram. So you can consider it on the example.

The first pair of contacts (1 and 2) - to connect the supply voltage. Note - for the correct operation of the thermostat, the correct installation of the phase (L) and zero (N) is important. That is why it is important to observe the color marking of the wires when laying the wiring - never confuse.
The second pair (3 and 4) is to connect the load, that is, the heating elements of the "warm floor". Typically indicates the value of the maximum permissible current - in this case it is 16 amps.
The third pair of contacts (6 and 7) is to connect the thermal sensor signal cable wires. The location of the conductors here does not matter. And also there is a signature, speaking about the parameters of the thermal sensor - its resistance at a temperature of +25 ° C is 10 com.

By the way, it will never be superfluous before installing to check the module compliance with the specified resistance to the real one. If a coincidence is obtained (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working, and it can be safely installed in place. If the value obtained is clearly different, then it can talk about the sensor fault. And it is better to replace it right away so as not to be born with this later.

So, no wisdom is not, everything is simple. But when switching, care is still needed.

Frequent error of inexperienced users - power wires are installed on the load terminals. After supplying the voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.

Before connecting, it will never prevent once again with the instructions and applied symbols. The fact is that some models of thermostators have a different order of location of the terminals. In particular, two zero, nutrition and loads are first located, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply a "stereotypical" connection scheme shown above, it will mean a guaranteed short circuit.

And where to go ground wire?

Infrequently, but there are models of thermostators, in which a separate terminal is selected for connecting the grounding and shielding braid of the heating cable.

But more often do otherwise. The green-yellow power cable conductor is connected to the shielding braid through the terminal or crimping sleeves directly with each other directly. And this connection is connected in the space of the peavern.

In modern models of thermostat, for example, with remote and remote control, there may be additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it goes beyond the scope of our article. In this case, it is necessary to be clearly guided by the appiled instructions. Or, if there is no experience of such a robot - it is better to invite a specialist.

Examples of the connection of the thermal controller of the warm floor - step by step

This section of the article considers three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.

Test connection of the thermostat RTC 70.26

This example is selected because such a thermostat refers to the most perhaps mass models. When it is installed, there are a number of nuances that should be known in advance. The trial switching is shown to test the efficiency of the device, that is, while without a stationary installation in the opposite. But well, the thermostat is very clearly demonstrated.

Illustration
	So, very popular thanks to its value (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness Model - RTC 70.26. A trial connection and operation will be conducted. In the role of the connected load will be the incandescent lamp (stands on the table).
	Rear view - on the housing there are terminals for connecting pair of wires. A mounting frame with arc-shaped slots is clearly visible - for fastening the thermostat in standard approach.
	The feature of this model, and very uncomfortable - before disassembling the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the installation wheel. It has to rise in a screwdriver and move along the axis progress.
	The screw is hidden by a screw that locks the cover on the instrument housing. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. The right screw does not need to touch - this is just a wheels turn limiter.
	After unscrewing the screw, the cover is neatly removed by the forward movement upwards.
	Here he is a nuance. The wheel rotates on the plastic axis, which, after removing the cover, is very easily removed from its nest. It is necessary to exercise accurate since: - the axis can be broken by a careless movement; - Such minor details have a harmful property to fall out and rolled into the most hard-to-reach places, so that they are not easy to find them. So it is better to immediately carefully pull out and put in a safe place.
	Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, with real installation, one must be installed first - all wires will be held through its window ...
	... And then the thermostat itself will be superimposed on top of it. As clearly seen - their mounting holes coincide.
	Go to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all terminals that will be used. When working with terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) sting so as not to damage the plastic edges of round nests.
	In Terminals 1 and 2, the wires of the power line are connected. It is important - not to forget to observe the correct location of zero and phases - this is indicated on the case near each of the terminals. In this case, simply to test the thermostat, a cable segment with a power plug is connected, which when checking will be turned on into the outlet.
	To terminals 3 and 4 are connected to the wires running to the load. Instead of the circuit of a warm floor for the test, an incandescent lamp will be used.
	Finally, the ends of the thermal sensor signal cable are installed in the terminals 6 and 7. Mutual location of their role does not play.
	Switching completed. Note - the wires suitable to the terminals can be multi-leading, and directly clamping their stripped ends - undesirable, as the contact may be initially unreliable, and over time also to weaken. All such wires are immediately dressed in terminal tips and crimped. Exception - copper wires of the power lines, if they are monasure. But if there is a multi-voltage wire (for example, 3 × 2.5 PVS), then the tips are definitely needed.
	Imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in the opposite, and it is required to collect it.
	First, the plastic axis is neatly inserted into its socket. It is necessary to feel that its lower slot entered the existing connection on the board.
	After that, the upper lid is dressed. The switch key must enter its window, the axis - go through the hole.
	Next - the cover is fixed with the screw. Plastic is rather fragile, so it should not strive to tighten the screw further - so you can achieve the appearance of a crack or at all the break under the head.
	Carefully dresses on the axis and deals down until the temperature of the temperature setting is stopped. You can immediately check the correctness of its installation - the risk imposed on it should be moved in the range of the applied scale.
	Everything is ready for testing. Power wires connect to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - "enabled".
	Nothing happens - no power supply. But this is because the regulator is installed while the temperature is only 10 degrees, and indoors are clearly more. It is clear that the thermal sensor does not give commands to turn on.
	Let's try to move the regulator but a mark of 30 degrees. There is a light bulb caught fire, that is, the thermostat allowed meals for the load, which was supposed to do!
	Let's start gradually reduce the value of the specified temperature on the regulator. When the level is reached, lower than the real temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - the heating is not required. Obviously, the device works correctly.

You can somewhat modify the experiment. To set the level of heating at 30 degrees, and then clamp the head of the thermal sensor in the palm of the palm. Since the temperature of the human body is higher, when the heating level is reached more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.

But it all was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connecting and operating the thermostat. And now you need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, at the place.

Prices for film warm floor

film warm floor

Switching and installation of an electronic thermostator to a regular place

This example shows the process of connecting and installing the thermostat of electrical cable "warm floor". Heating elements are laid and filled with a screed for a long time. On the walls of the room even finished finish. Podrotimette is wondered and all the necessary cables and wires are installed in it.

Naturally, before starting work, it should be checked again, whether the power line going to the warm floor is de-energized - the machine must be turned off.

The device "Devireg Touch" is used, the removable cover of which is simultaneously the sensory digital display. It is attached on the housing on the latches, while switching with it through the existing connector.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	Podrottor opens if it was covered for the trim time. Wires are displayed out. So, there are three types of wires - the power cable is copper mono-channel 3 × 2.5 WEG, the heating cable is dwended in the shielding braid and the temperature cable of the temperature sensor.
	All wires are trimmed, so that they come out of the peavern for the level of the wall at 80 ÷ 100 mm - this is enough.
	To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect a green-yellow power cable wire with a copper shielding lap heating cable. The connection will be executed by the "WAGO" terminal. Since the braid consists of a plurality of thin wires, for a high-quality connection in the terminal it must be sent.
	The end of the braid is neatly tightly twisted, processed by flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder.
	The end of a green-yellow power cable grounding wire is cleaned. It is best to perform this with a special tool - the insulation puller.
	Then both prepared conductor are inserted alternately and clamping in the "WAGO" terminal.
	After that, the wires are neatly fenced, and this connecting unit is removed into the conversion.
	The terminal should be accommodated at the bottom of the submersion. As already mentioned, for the thermostat it is better to use the conversion of an enlarged depth. Commission of grounding is completed.
	Prepare to connect the rest of the wires. Their ends are cleaned of insulation, about 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Since the "cold ends" of the heating cable have a multi-breed structure, for a high-quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be "dined" into crimp tips.
	The monolon wires of the power cable of the VG will be perfectly lit in the terminal without any tips. The thermal sensor wires can have terminal tips installed on production. However, just here the load is almost no, so you can do and brings the tips - this will be enough. If there are tips of the desired diameter - you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires are not flushing to ensure good contact.
	If all wires are prepared, you can go to switching them. The steam connection sequence does not matter. In this example, the master began with a cable connection of the thermal sensor. As mentioned earlier, the mutual location of the thermal sensor wires in terminals (NTS) is not regulated. Wires are inserted into the terminals and tighten with screws. The applying effort is tested by the reliability of their fixation.
	Further, they are headed in the terminals and then tightened dressed in the tips "cold ends" of the heating cable. The color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: it is exactly such an example when the wires of the power and heating cable are installed "into the crossing" - the next two phases, and then two zero. It is important to take it very carefully, focusing on the designations applied.
	After that, the feed wires also become clamped in their terminals, also in strict accordance with the color marking and applied notation.
	All wires are connected. It is possible for confidence to be held again - check the quality of tightening contacts on all terminals.
	Now the thermostat body must be accurately inserted into the opposition. In order to do not interfere with the wires, having quite significant rigidity, are applied as follows. Initially, the device is taken as shown in the illustration.
	Then gently rotate it up, so that all the wires from the bottom are the first uniform bending.
	After that, the wires to the back side of the thermostat casing are pressed with indicable fingers on both sides.
	... And the device itself turns a little back.
	As a result, it should be such a zigzag bending of all wires ...
	... and the thermostat will easily enter the penetper.
	If necessary, it is equalized by horizontally using a construction level ...
	... and then fixed to the conversion of self-draws. The masters recommend using not those self-tapping screws, which come in the kit, and somewhat longer, 25 or 30 mm - it will be more reliable. After the injection of self-samples, the level of installation is checked again - and then they are completely tightened.
	All, the device body is installed, it remains to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and neatly leaks forward until latches work.
	All, thermostat installed. If the conditions allow, you can turn on the power and carry out a test launch of the warm floor system. And then - configuration and programming of the device, in accordance with the manual attached to it.

It can be added that the start of the "warm floor" system, if the heaters are closed with a screed, can only be carried out after a complete set of strength. It is completely unacceptable to "stimulate" the frozen and ripening of concrete with the inclusion of heating. And even after the complete readiness of the screed and flooring, the start still does not produce at once on the calculated power. It is necessary to start, for example, from heating to 15 degrees, and then raise the temperature of 5 degrees daily until the planned mode is reached. This most achieved the maximum smooth adaptation of all components of the "Warm Paul Pie" to normal operation in conditions of elevated temperatures.

Connecting the thermostat to the film "Warm floor"

Finally, the third example dismant the connection of the thermostat to the floor heating system with infrared film elements. There are differences in the installation of the thermal sensor, and the thermostat itself will be installed not to the capital wall, but on the hard lining (MDF-CLO).

The example shows the personal experience of the author of this article.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	For a warm floor, in this example, the 3 mounted meters of the film heater "Heatonog" of South Korean production was purchased. Specific power - 220 W / m². That is, with a width of the film 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor heating system will be only 330 W. Stying will be conducted in a small room of a private house. The room is a former children. Former because the daughter was rustling to student age.
	More in this case is not required. "Warm floor" is creating exclusively to increase the level of comfort, and not instead of the existing water heating system. It is planned to place the heaters with two lines. A longer, two-meter (pos.4) captures a plot from the entrance door through the center of the room to the desk (pos.2). The second, meter plot (pos.3) will be located along the bed (pos.1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be littered with laminate.
	A power cable from the selected automaton located in the next room was carried out. I had to punch the wall and take part of the cladding to skip the wires. It is decided to leave a high shelf on the left wall - it is behind her cladding from the MDF-Watch that the power conductor will be held, and the thermostat with a parallel connected socket will be located on the section shown in the blue arrow. Film heaters do not suggest grounding, therefore, the PVS wires 2 × 1.5 are used. With such a low power of heaters and with the calculation, that the socket is intended to charge gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of the thermostat and the sockets, two facing panels are temporarily removed here - in them, after a small alteration, windows will be cut down to install conversion.
	The surface of the floor-lined OSP surface is covered with a foil substrate from polyethylene foam. All joints are combined with foil scotch. The illustration is clearly visible by a plot where the thermostat will be installed. Facing panels are shortened - a small niche shelf will be placed there. In the panels, the windows are cut and conversion (as for drywall - with clamping legs behind the back). Immediately installed socket, connected to the power cable. From it the loop there is a segment of the cable that will connect to the thermostat. The height of the installation of the submersionists in this case was 450 mm, with a permissible minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut under the panel with a socket (shown by the arrow) - the wires of the "warm floor" and the thermal sensor will pass through it.
	Switching the heating film elements will be carried out according to such a scheme: 1 - thermal sensor; 2 - Points of connection to the tires of phase wires; 3 - Points of connection of zero wires; 4 - Points of isolation remaining unused cropped ending tires. All wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - must pass into the cut-out arched window.
	The heating film is cut into two fragments that are laid on the place intended for them. The "copper" side of the tires should look down.
	In long edges, heaters are fixed to the surface of the floor strips of construction tape.
	First of all, insulation is insulated with the covered ends of tires, which will not be involved in switching. This uses special overlays on a revincible basis, which walked with a film. On the one hand, a protective paper substrate is removed ...
	... The insulating pad is pasted from below to the tire ...
	... driving and tightly crimped. And so - at all four points in accordance with the scheme.
	In order for the insulation places to be discharged up above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut into a foil substrate exactly along the contour of the insulating overlay.
	Next, the battlefield meaters begins. For this, the wires are also used and included in the "warm floor" kit.
	Special terminal contacts are inserted into the tire cuts. To do this, you can slide a slot between two layers of the film with a screwdriver.
	The top petal of contact is introduced into this slot ...
	... and the lower first is just pressed with a finger ...
	... and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - on all the point, according to the scheme where the wires will be connected.
	Then to these terminals, again, strictly according to the scheme, the wires are connected. Their ends stripped from insulation are introduced into the terminal, and then sequentially spinning her petals.
	After comprise terminals, it is insulated with the same reversible overlays. Only one is glued below, as shown in the illustration ...
	... and the second is on top. After careful compression, a neat insulating "Cocoon" is obtained.
	Under it is also cut out the window in a foil substrate. In addition, the Wire is "drown", the groove is cut under it. Similarly, operations are repeated at all points of wire connection, according to the scheme.
	It's time to install the thermal sensor. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed to it below (the place is shown by the arrow).
	Reliable fixation is provided by a strip of reinforced construction scotch.
	For the signal cable, the groove is cut in the substrate, and for the head of the thermal sensor, it even had to make a slight recess in the plywood floor covering.
	Switching the heaters is over, all wires converge in one point - dive under lining.
	And the film heaters are finally around the perimeter, and all the grooves with the laid wires are "sealed" by the construction scotch bands.
	Wires are charged for lining, and you can start the installation of the thermostat.
	The wires are used multi-proper, so crimp terminal tips were installed on all the ends of the ends.
	The wires are skipped through the windows cut into the opposite ...
	... And then the panel with the submersestate is installed in its place and is finally fixed there.
	There will be such a thermostat, electronic type with the possibility of weekly programming modes of "warm floor".
	First of all, it needs to be disassembled.
	First, the facing frame is removed - it is attached on the latches, and dismantle it is easy. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal caliper. It is fixed on it a moving metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photo.
	This bracket is moving with a screwdriver up and comes from grounding with a caliper.
	Caliper and thermostat after disassembly.
	The caliper is immediately put in place - fastened with self-drawing to the opposition. Wires are skipped through it.
	The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, standard scheme.
	First of all, the contacts of the thermal sensor cable are connected.
	Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the power cable wires - their connection simply did not fall into the frame.
	Before the final installation of the thermostat, it makes sense to check the performance of the assembled system.
	To do this, automat is turned on, that is, the power supply is supplied, and "OFF" appeared on the thermostat display - disabled. While everything goes according to plan.
	The thermostat is turned on. But heating does not begin, as the works were performed in summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device - 24 degrees. In the right side of the screen - real temperature indicators on the thermal sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary for the experiment to temporarily set the level of heating at 33 degrees. And the "warm floor" triggers instantly - the heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by the arrow), and the bare feet feel the rapid rise of the temperature on the floor. Everything is working!
	You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. The installation of it is already difficult not to cause - it is attached to the caliper, and then decorative frame is installed. After that, the power of this line was again turned on. The thermostat to cold weather will be in the off position, but the socket may well be used for purpose.
	And, finally, to logically finish this example, it is shown that in the end it turned out after the laminate flooring and the final finish of the area of \u200b\u200binstallation of the thermostat.

* * * * * * *

So, the publications described in detail examples of the installation of an electric heating floor thermostat. Only points associated with the exact setting and programming of such devices fell out of the field of view. But this is done intentionally not to make confusion. Simply different models can have their own characteristics, and there are no universal "recipes". Therefore, here will have to be strictly guided by the instruction attached to the thermostator. Or search more detailed description of the programming operations performed on the Internet.

As an example, you can recommend to see a detailed video instruction laid out on YouTube one of the users. By the way, the exact setting of the model is shown, almost completely coinciding with the installation shown in the last example.

Video: Configure the programmable thermostat series E51

Automation in the heating system allows you to more accurately monitor the temperature regime in heated rooms and save on fuel. By installing the thermostat for the heating boiler, the owner of the cottage increases by 20-30% the efficiency of the boiler equipment and greatly simplifies its service.

We will talk about the types of thermostators applied in practice, about the rules of their location and connectivity features. In the proposed article describes in detail the options and schemes for connecting devices. With our tips, you can correctly select the device and if you wish to install.

The usual heating system with water as a coolant consists of heating equipment or a connection node to a centralized network, internal wiring and radiators.

To regulate the volumes of heat from it from it, it is necessary to either constantly monitor the boiler, or regularly cover / open the valve on the batteries.

In this case, the inertness of such a system does not allow maintenance of the desired temperature throughout the day at the established level. If more in the furnace to impose firewood or to the boiler to supply gas, then the coolant in the pipes is heated stronger, with heat through radiators he will also give more.

At low temperatures outside the window, this is good. But with a sharp warming on the street in the house of the heat becomes unbearable. The fuel is already in the firebox, and the water has already bent, get rid of heat in any way. Plus the boiler also continues to work.

Without a thermostat in the system to disable it manually. You can, of course, open the windows to ventilating and release heat, but then the fuel bills will definitely break. The output suggests itself: a thermostat for heating simplifies accommodation, makes it as comfortable as possible.

The thermostat for the heating system is from:

a heat sensitive sensor (element);
setting block;
control module;
electromagnetic relay or mechanical valve.

In the simplest models, the control unit is absent. Everything happens at the expense of pure mechanics and changes in the physical properties of the heat-sensitive element.

Such thermostats the power supply is not necessary. According to the efficiency and accuracy of the system adjustment, they are inferior to electronic devices, but non-volatile. When problems with voltage on the network, they will not definitely stop working.

The principle of operation of the thermostat is as follows:

Using the control unit, the desired temperature is displayed.
When the required parameters achieve the sensor, the sensor is triggered, which leads to the boiler shutdown or overlapping the shut-off valve in heating pipes.
After the air temperature drops in the room there is an inverse switching on boiler equipment or heaters.

The electronic control module allows you to specify not one temperature indicator, and immediately several for each day of day separately. Plus, if there is such a block, it is possible to install an additional temperature sensor on the street and binding the functioning of the thermostat to data from it.

Depending on the type of device, the thermostat is connected directly to the boiler to adjust its operation either at the inlet to the radiator to monitor the volume of coolant

The simplest thermostat is a shut-off reinforcement with a thermal sensor, standing on the battery pipe. When the desired temperature is reached, the coolant current is closed and reduces. And when cooled room air, it opens again, resulting in the volume of the incoming heat increase.

More complex and advanced models involve the presence of wireless sensors and control units. The whole connection between individual elements occurs through the radio channel. The wires in this case are not laid out, which has a positive effect on the aesthetic side of the placement of such thermostators indoors.

Types of thermostators for boilers

The main difference between thermostats is a different thermal sensor sensors. Some are installed on the heating pipe, others inside it, and the third mounted on the wall. Some are calculated on measuring air temperature, and the second coolant.

The choice of the thermostat model depends on:

type of boiler;
wirout schemes of the heating system;
availability of free space;
required functional.

Many modern boilers are designed for connecting thermostats in advance. Moreover, the manufacturer of boiler equipment immediately prescribes all the nuances of this installation.

If the electronic model of the thermostat is selected, then it is best to give preference to the most efficient - the one that is recommended by the developer of the boiler

Ideally, the thermostat must regulate the work of the direct heating device, that is, the supply of fuel into it. This is the most effective in terms of saving a fuel diagram of the connection. In this case, the energy carrier will be burned exactly as much as heat is required.

But such a thermostat will be able to install only on or. If, the thermostat with a mechanical valve will help to adjust the room temperature, which is already mounted on the pipe.

Regulators installed on batteries are designed to overlapping water supply at too high temperature in the room or in the coolant. The boiler in this case ceases to work somewhat later, when he has its own temperature sensor inside, preventing equipment overheating.

Group # 1: Mechanical

The work of the mechanical thermal sensor is based on the change in the characteristics of the material when it changes its temperature. This is an easy-to-fulfill, budget, quite effective and fully independent of the power supply option. It is designed to install on pipe adjustment pipes.

As a response to changes in the temperature of the substance in mechanical thermostats are used:

liquid.

When the liquid is heated, the gases are expanded, which leads to their pressure on the shut-off valve. When the temperature is reduced, they are compressed, the constipation is returned to the spring back, and the heated water again flows through the pipes into heating radiators.

For characterized weak sensitivity and large adjustment error. They only work with increasing temperature by 2 or more degrees. Plus, over time, the filler of the bellows loses its characteristics, the numbers on the installation knob of the required temperature parameters and real degrees begin to disperse.

Such thermostators have large enough dimensions. The overwhelming majority of them are designed to measure the water temperature in batteries, and not air indoors. Often, accurately adjust them as you want the owner of the house, difficult.

Group # 2: Electromechanical

These thermostats work on similar with purely mechanical counterpart principles. Only as a heat-sensitive element here applies a metal plate.

When heated, it bends and closes the contact, and when cooled, it returns to its original position and throws the chain. And already through this circuit, the signal is served on the burner control unit.

The electromechanical thermostat is required power supply, it regulates the flow of coolant valves or burners in the boiler controls by means of electrical signals

Another variant of the electromechanical thermostat is a device with a sensor in the form of two plates from different metals. In this case, the thermo-sensitive element is installed directly in the furnace of the solid fuel boiler.

At high temperatures between the plates, the potential difference occurs, affecting the electromagnetic relay. Contacts in the latter open, then climb. As a result, the air shutdown is turned on into the combustion chamber.

Group # 3: Electronic

This type of thermostats for hot water boilers belongs to the energy-dependent category. Such devices have a remote thermal sensor tracking the temperature in the room, and the full control unit with the display.

For electrocalls, such thermostators are a mandatory addition. Without them, electric heaters will work without stopping, heating air or heat carrier too much.

Boilers and boilers operating on electricity in the overwhelming majority thermostats are equipped at the factory

There are two main elements in the electronic thermostat:

Temperature sensor.
Microcontroller.

The first measures the temperature, and the second controls it and gives signals to increase / decrease the supply of thermal energy to the room. The sensor can send an analog or digital signal to the controller. In the first case, the thermostat for the possibilities is similar to a mechanical analogue, only superior to it in the accuracy of temperature indicators.

Digital thermostat is the top of the development of these devices. They allow to adjust the thermal-contained algorithm in advance. Plus, you can connect much more sensors located both in the rooms and on the street.

Many electronic thermostats have the ability to remote control through the IR port or cellular communication. This allows you to adjust the room temperature not only with the help of the remote room, but also from any point outside it.

For example, still leaving work, you can send a signal to heat the room air to comfortable parameters, and the house will delight the house with the cooler and warmth.

Electronic devices designed to automatically adjust the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the coolant are a mandatory component. We recommend familiarizing yourself with their device.

Connection concepts

All methods for switching on the thermostat into the heating system are divided into three connecting options:

Directly to the boiler.
To circulating pump.
On the pipe serving the coolant into the radiator.

The first two schemes exclude the deterioration in the bandwidth of the heating pipeline. It does not fit any additional constipation, the hydraulic resistance of the entire system does not change. The thermostat here manages the work of only a pump or boiler, with water he "does not touch".

When installing the thermostat on the battery or a total tube with several radiators, hydraulic resistance, on the contrary, increases. Even in the fully open state, the thermostat valve slightly slows down the movement of the coolant.

Ideally, the strapping project of the boiler must be made immediately taking into account all the thermostat and other devices.

Cut the thermostats to existing heating pipelines should only be in extreme cases, maximum efficiency on their application can be achieved only when they are turned on to the system at the design stage.

If the water heating system in the house is made, then from the third version it is better to refuse immediately. When the thermal sensor is triggered, the valve will block the entire branch of radiators in several rooms at once, and then you can immediately forget about the comforts of distant from the boiler.

Connect the thermostat to the radiator input should be through. So, when triggered, it will redirect the flow of the coolant bypassing the battery. At the same time, the water will return the hazard back to the boiler. The latter will cease to heal, thereby reducing the consumption of gas fuel or electricity.

Thermal sensor must be installed:

in a place where direct sunlights do not fall;
away from the bridges of cold, drafts and rising heat fluxes from radiators;
so that it does not turn out to be closed decorative screens or curtains;
at the height of the floor within 1.2-1.5 meters.

If the sensor is improved, the thermostat will give out false signals. This can lead to overheating not only air in the room, but also coolant in the system. And in the second case, long and to problems with the boiler.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Special difficulties with the installation of the thermostat should not occur. It should only be chosen to choose for a particular heating system. And chosen video materials will help you in this.

Video # 1. Connecting a room thermostat to gas boiler in all nuances:

In this case, you can choose both a simple mechanical option with manual control and a more advanced device with the programmer.

Want to tell how the boiler is working with a thermostat in your country house? Owning information that will be useful to site visitors? Please write comments, ask questions, publish photos on the topic of the article below the block.

In heat control systems, the role of the control unit plays the thermostat - the device processing information received from the thermal sensor, and in accordance with the specified mode, including or disconnecting the heating of the floor.

With the electric heating system, thermostators are installed at mandatory. The installation of the thermostat in the water heating floor system is not mandatory. But, if the floor is an additional heating measure, and the temperature of the coolant at the input in the circuit is above 50 degrees, the installation of the thermostat will solve the room overheating problem.

Types of thermostators

Thermostats for any warm floor system can be:

programmable, working on a predetermined, including a complex program;
without software control.

Changing modes on unprogrammed thermostats is performed manually using a rotary regulator (mechanical adjustment) or buttons (electronically digital).

Programmable thermostats are more expensive and more difficult in management, but at the same time they allow you to significantly save energy resources, turning off the floor heating or reducing its temperature at night or during the day when its heating is not needed.

Mechanical unprogramble thermostats are controlled by a simple turn of the handle to the specified mark. Electron-digital - using buttons, touch panel or remote control. The price of unprogrammed thermostats is lower due to the maximum simple logical part.

By installation method, thermostats are:

embeddable - they are installed in a special recess in the wall;
overhead - they are attached to the wall with screws or self-tapping screws.

Choosing a type of installation is a matter of taste, but it does not affect the functionality.

Sensors for temperature measurement

Sensors are a thermocouple of two wires, changing the resistance of the chain when heated. Wires are connected to the corresponding terminals of the thermostat. Sensors are:

remote;
built-in.

Removes are divided into floor or air temperature sensors. The first is mounted simultaneously with the laying of heating elements directly under the finish coating, the second is in a convenient temperature to measure the air temperature. Built-in sensors are directly inside the thermostat. Some thermostat models have both types of sensors.

In the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is better to install thermostats with a floor temperature sensor - air in these rooms can be heated from the plate or hot water, the floor remains cold.

Connecting thermostat to electric heat floors

Electric warm floors are performed using a heating cable with high resistance or infrared film. They are placed on a specially prepared foundation, after which they make the tie of the floor and put the finish coating.

Temperature regulator connection technology:

Before mounting the floor, it is necessary to determine the location where the thermostat will be located, and plan its connection to the electrical network. To connect the thermostat, a voltage is 220 V AC, that is, you can connect it to a regular outlet or to a separate cable through the circuit breaker.
When laying the floor, choose a place for the thermal sensor. It should be located near the thermostat, on the floor-free part of the floor.

For infrared floors, the sensor is placed from the wrong side of the film and are connected to the wires that goes to the thermostat.
For cable warm floors filled with a concrete tie, the sensor must be put in a metal corrugation, isolating it from making concrete. This measure is needed to easily extract and replace the sensor in case of its failure. The sensor closed into the concrete is easy to extract. The pipe is displayed to the wall on which the thermostat is installed.
After laying the floor, it is processed to install the regulator. In the selected place prepare a deepening in the wall in size of the body of an embedded thermostat or make a markup to fasten the overhead. Remove the front panel and fasten the regulator into place.
Match the allowable switching power of the contacts of the thermostat with the power of the heating cable or infrared floor is compared. If it is less - additionally install a magnetic starter with a rating of a ~ 220V coil. At the same time, the chain of the heating cable is connected to power 220 V through the contacts of the magnetic starter, and the circuit of the starter coil is connected to the output from the thermostat.
If the switching power of the contacts of the thermostat is sufficient, then the heating cable is connected directly to the output from the thermostat.
Connect the sensor circuit to the terminals specified in the passport or instructions.
Power supply 220 V to the corresponding terminals: they are usually designated as L or F - phase and N - zero. Fazirovka must be observed. It is possible to determine it by the color of the wire: if the cable is new and laid according to the rules, the phase wire has black, brown or white insulation, and zero - blue. If you connect the thermostat to a common outlet, the phase is found using a voltage pointer or indicator screwdriver.

Check the performance of the thermostat:
Power supply 220 V;
Set the minimum temperature value on the thermostat;
Include heating floor toggle switch;
Change the temperature mode to the maximum rotation of the handle or with the help of the buttons - at the same time it should be heard a click noting about the circuit of the heating chain.

Temperature regulators for water heating systems are a device for managing control control that regulates the flow of the coolant in the heating circuit. They can be either electronic and manual control, and in such regulatory systems, the air temperature measurement sensors are usually used, and not gender due to the large heating inertia.

The sensor is installed at a height of about 100-120 cm above the floor level on the wall, can be near the thermostat. The wall should not be subjected to additional heating from heating radiators.
Mount the chain of the power regulator and the sensor circuit.
If a thermostat with an electrical connection with a servo drive is used - the cable is paved to the circuits of its control.
When using a regulator with radio control set it.
Checking the operation of the regulatory system is made using an external thermometer: installed on the regulator the desired mode and measure the temperature at the location of the sensor is installed for several hours. Temperature should not be essential.

All operations on connecting electrical circuits must be performed when the circuit breaker is turned off - this is the key to your safety!

Unlike radiators, infrared heaters help equip heating at a larger area with a much low temperature. This allows economically to heat up modern houses. To provide thermal comfort for users and the controlled operation of floor equipment, you should use controls. Below is information on how to connect the Ballu BMT 1 and BMT 2 thermostat, features and advantages of these devices.

Control via thermostat VMT

Thermal comfort is a subjective feeling of every person. This condition in which people perform ordinary homework without excessive overheating or supercooling. To regulate the temperature, thermostats are needed, they help to function correctly to infrared heaters. NMT is a modern feedback electronic device that supports the exact specified temperature.

The system of its management is very simple and at the same time effective - you should set the value you need to achieve in the selected room. Sensors determine the temperature, and then include the device to achieve the desired value. After that, the heating devices automatically turn off. The following inclusion occurs when the temperature begins to fall. Such a management system saves electricity - heaters work only about 4-6 hours a day.

Before answering the question, the thermostat of NTC 1: how to connect, you should know that the temperature in the apartment largely depends on the location of the heater. It is recommended to install it in an affordable place, away from drafts (windows, doors).

Main advantages

The main pluses of thermostators NTT include:

ease of use (just use the dial to set the desired temperature in the room);
low purchase costs and subsequent maintenance.

Thus, temperature control inside the house allows you to maintain sufficient thermal comfort and reduce heating costs.

Before mounting

It should be known that the answer to the question: Thermostat NTC 2 - how to connect directly related to installing Ballu BMT 1. To safely install them, it is recommended to comply with the precautions:

before starting work, turn off the heater from the network;
use wires with standard colors and a suitable cross section.

Value of wire colors:

brown phase - control cable;
blue phase - neutral wire n ("zero");
red or black - phase conductor.

Installation of thermostat

A few words about how to connect the thermostat Balle NMT 1. The installation of the device must pass consistently:

Move the thermostat cover and remove the screws and plugs.
In the outlet using the indicator screwdriver, define the phase.
Brown wire (phase) attach to the sensor.
By the third wire, according to the scheme, connect one end of the heater.
To the remaining end, connect the blue wire.
Between the third and fifth wire, put the jumper.
After an intermediate test, in which the device is nicknamed to check if the thermostat works, the plastic box is put on.

Figure below indicates how to attach the Ballu BMT 1 thermostat according to the connection scheme. To the location of the device lay the wiring, which is connected to zero or phase.

The thermostat of Ballu BMT 2 connection diagram is similar to the above, only the number of terminals are different. After installation, the instrument is connected to the infrared heater of a separate line.

If you have any questions, call us! Our consultants will advise you.