Building or repair of housing always consists of several stages. One of them is the arrangement of the ceiling - a lesson, having a number of characteristic features and nuances. At this stage, it is necessary to eliminate all the defects that are in the overlap, align the corners and irregularities. Of course, such a task has several solutions - for example, you can install a suspended ceiling of plasterboard. On how to mount ceilings from plasterboard, and it will be discussed in this article.

Tools and materials

Installation of the suspended ceiling of plasterboard begins with preparatory work. Of course, the first thing should go to the design of the future design, but immediately after it can be started to buy materials and tools necessary for the work.

First you need to figure out what you need for a suspended ceiling from the tools - and this list includes the following fixtures:

• Water level (laser, but it costs much more expensive, and costs are far from always appropriate - both types of devices solve the same tasks);
• Construction level (it is desirable to take a two-meter - it is ideal for tracking the evenness of plasterboard sheets);
• The perforator required to drive holes under the dowel;
• Drill or screwdriver necessary for fastening profiles and sheets of plasterboard;
• Roulette, pencil for marking and a sharp knife;
• Scissors for metal, Bulgarian or manual hacksaw.

Before mounting the ceiling of plasterboard, it will also need to prepare the materials, the list of which looks like this:

• Metal profiles. For mounting suspended ceilings, guide profiles are needed to be mounted around the perimeter of the room, and the ceiling required for fastening the frame elements. You need to calculate the number of guide profiles depending on the perimeter of the room, pushing out the length of the walls and the profiles themselves. Ceiling profiles are calculated depending on the width of plasterboard sheets (usually 125 cm) and the step between the profiles (the optimal value is 60 cm). Both types of profiles are best acquired with a small margin so that when damaged or initially marriage, parts do not encounter the need to buy them, mounting mounted ceilings from drywall.
• Sheets of plasterboard. Plasterboard can be in one of three versions - standard, moisture resistant and refractory. Refractory products are rarely used, and moisture-resistant needs only for premises with high humidity (kitchens and bathrooms). Collecting the suspended ceiling of GLCs in the rest of the rooms, you can take standard sheets to not pay extra. The thickness of the plasterboard on the ceiling should not exceed 10 mm - the strength of the material due to the thickness almost does not increase, but the weight becomes greater, as a result of which the load on the frame increases, and it is more difficult to work with sheets. The calculation of the required number of sheets is very simple - the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling is divided into one sheet area. As in the case of the rest of the materials, take better with the reserve.

• Fasteners. The first type of details that will be required for installation are direct suspensions for the ceiling of plasterboard. On 20 square meters of the square, about 50 suspensions usually grabs, if the suspension ceiling is single-level. For complex configurations, it may be necessary more, and then an individual calculation is already needed. As a rule, the step between the suspensions is about 60-70 cm, and this value will allow you to calculate the required number of parts. If the ceiling profiles will have to be repeatedly connected, then "crabs" or longitudinal connectors will be required, the number of which will coincide with the number of connections. You will also need a dowel for fastening of suspensions, metal screws for fastening profiles, and self-tapping screws for mounting the plasterboard sheets themselves.

When the design of the suspended ceiling from drywall is composed, and all the necessary materials with tools are purchased, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Montage Karcasa

The installation technology of suspended ceilings begins with a frame assembly, which looks like this:

• Work begins with marking areas, where guide profiles will be mounted. Water level is used for markup. First you need to check with each other two points on the opposite walls. These points are preferably located so that the distance to the base overlap in the lowest point is about 10 cm - this is enough for the installation of all communications, insulation and lighting. Marking is transferred to all walls.
• In accordance with the layout in the walls, the holes for fastening the dowels are dried. Next, using fasteners, the guides for the ceiling of plasterboard are mounted. The fifth step should be about 35 cm, and from the corners you need to retreat by 10-15 cm.
• Next, you need to be placed on the walls of the point in which the ceiling profiles will be installed. For simple single-level suspended ceilings, it is enough for profiles located in one direction, i.e. It is only two opposite walls. Collecting the ceiling from the profile with your own hands, you must necessarily ensure that the distance between the profiles was the same. The optimal step of fixing the ceiling profiles, as mentioned above, is 60 cm.

• The next step, which involves the technology of mounting drywall on the ceiling - installation of suspensions. These elements are attached to the basic ceiling overlap. The distance between the suspensions is best to hold within 60-70 cm - it will simplify some further work. However, a small error when installing these elements is permissible.
• Now you can start installing the ceiling profiles themselves. If the length of the profiles and the wall coincides, then the products do not have to go - and it is very convenient. In practice, such a scheme of a suspended ceiling made of drywall is very rarely implemented, so individual profiles have to be allowed using a couple of additional suspensions installed at the point of the joint, and longitudinal connectors. All parts are connected to each other using self-samples to achieve maximum frame rigidity.
• Connecting suspensions with ceiling profiles, you need to ensure that the latners do not have sagging and bends. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to the fact that the collected design will be uneven, and it will be noticeably at first glance. Of course, on the decorative properties of the ceiling, this will not affect the best way.
• When the sided ceiling frame is assembled, you need to check all its elements for alignment. This operation uses a two-meter level. Having found a skewer, you need to fix them, and only after that you can move on.

On this assembly of the carcass of the plasterboard ceiling is completed. Now you can do the installation of insulation, wiring and other communications, which should be located in the box. When all the required items are installed, it is time to squeeze the frame of plasterboard.

Suspended ceiling and putting

The mounting scheme of plasterboard to the assembled frame is as follows:

• Plasterboard sheets rise to the frame and fixed by self-drawing around the perimeter and in the central part. The optimal step of screwing the screws is about 10-15 cm. Hats of fasteners need to be deepened into the thickness of the plasterboard sheets by about 1 mm. Too zealous does not need to not damage the sheet. It is possible before turning the plasterboard to the ceiling, it is worth a little stretching on trimming material.
• If the step of profiles for the plasterboard ceiling was observed, and all the elements are installed correctly, then the sheets will become smoothly with minimal trimming. When installing, you need to look at how the edges of the sheets are jerked - if they do not have roundings, it will need to be cut into a knife so that the putty is in the future it is not cracked.
• In areas where lighting devices or communication will be located, you need to cut the hole with a knife of the appropriate sizes. However, instead of a knife, it will be better to take advantage of a special nozzle on a drill - so the hole will turn out to be more even and neat.

• When the mounting ceiling of plasterboard is completed, all parts are fitted to each other, and the necessary holes are cut, we can engage in a putty design. For this work, gypsum plaster and adhesive mesh are usually used, which is designed for the reinforcement of the joints of individual sheets.
• You need to start a putty from those places where the sheets are suitable for each other. The putty is applied to these sections, closes the self-adhesive grid and is aligned. When the material is completely driving, you can proceed to the processing of the entire surface of the ceiling by the finish layer.
• The first coating must be left for a couple of days so that it is finally frozen. Next you need to stock the shallow emery paper, a building level and a lamp that allows you to find the nerves of the ceiling. The dried putty is neatly burned and aligned so that there are no holes, bugro and high-altitude drops on the ceiling.

On this, the installation of HCL on the ceiling is completed. Of course, the given technology may be much more complicated - for example, when creating multi-level structures, it is necessary to apply more efforts at times, and financial costs will increase. However, it is still better to start with simple ceilings - the likelihood of a critical error in such cases is minimal.

Decorating plasterboard ceiling

The finishing trim of the plasterboard suspended ceiling can be carried out by weight of the methods. The market presents an extensive range of various materials and solutions that can be used to decorate the ceiling construction - and not all materials are designed for decoration.

A variety of options suggests that the decoration of the suspended ceiling is a purely individual moment, which is worked out by personally by the owner or a hired designer. In addition, the selection of the most suitable jewelry depends largely on financial capabilities - the budgetary decoration is shut-off from completely different materials than expensive decor.

For some situations, there may be a good plaster stucco, and in others, simple foam baguettes will be appropriate. The ceiling surface finishes are also important - in one style, the stocking of wallpaper will be quite appropriate, and for other cases, more complex and expensive solutions will be required, such as the elegant pattern of handmade, applied to the ceiling by the artist.

When designing the design of the ceiling, it is also necessary to take into account the features of the room itself, as well as all housing. Whether all rooms will drive under a common style, or they will be completely different from each other - this question must be thought out as early as possible in order not to face the incompatibility of designer solutions.

Conclusion

Technology of mounting suspended ceilings from drywall is quite simple, if you do not take into account the design of complex configurations, for the assembly of which requires serious experience in building work. However, with a big desire, you can solve any task, even the most difficult one - in the end, it is not at all necessary to do all the work with your own hands, you can always entrust their implementation by specialists.

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Independent installation of drywall on the ceiling - 7 stages of the manufacture of the ceiling coating

Among the existing options for arranging the chisto-ceiling coating, one of the most popular methods, the sewing of the main ceiling by plasterboard sheets is considered. At first glance, the installation of a ceiling of plasterboard may seem difficult to independently manufacturing. From our own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, not even having practical skills and experience with this material.

Application of plasterboard for trimming ceiling

Plasterboard sheet (GLC) is a rigid sheet finishing material, which is designed for the manufacture of interior partitions, as well as for the draft surface of the ceilings, walls, window and doorways, and other elements of building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called "gyro-" or "dry plaster". Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin, but dense cardboard, between which there is a homogeneous solid layer of frozen gypsum solution.

In order not to delve into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the application of sheet drywall for finishing ceilings:

1. Plasterboard sheets have a smooth homogeneous matte surfacewhich in itself is the ideal basis for applying finishing materials (facing tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

1. Compared to other construction materials (brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of plasterboard is significantly lower, besides, it has a much smaller proportion, therefore it is considered the most appropriate material for interior construction;
2. The gypsum mineral base is not independently lit, and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of plasterboard are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, so it is safe to use it for the interior decoration of residential and bedrooms;
3. Due to composite sheet design, plasterboard has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity. These qualities allow you to use it, both to align rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for firing complex parts of the interior with curvilinear configuration (decorative erkers, cornices, counter open-in the ceiling backlight, etc.);

1. Plasterboard sheets can be felt at a considerable distance from capital ceiling overlap. This makes it possible to perform a hidden gasket of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in free space for decorative suspended ceiling;
2. The ceiling sheets are necessarily performed on the carrier metal frame, which in itself, has some thickness. After mounting the plasterboard, the finishing ceiling in the room becomes lower at least by 50 mm, so this method is not suitable for decoration of rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
3. The mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of the cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when weeping, they lose their strength, and they are destroyed over time. For this reason, I do not advise you to use this material for finishing raw rooms with constant high humidity (bath, bathroom or shower room).

The cardboard for the outer layers of the GLC is made of natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, under conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient inflow of fresh air, an ideal nutrient environment is created on its surface for the development and growth of mold fungus. To allow the appearance of mold, it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature conditions of operation and high-quality ventilation of the interporal space.

Step 1: calculation of the number of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should be no problems with this at all, since all components for mounting drywall are currently you can purchase in any construction hypermarket.

1. Plasterboard sheets can have a thickness of 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm. 9.5 mm thick sheets have a smaller weight, so they are more preferable to use the ceiling finishes The right number of sheets is determined, based on the total ceiling area, plus 5% of the stock;
2. The galvanized metal profile of the brand "UD" by cross section 28x27 mm is designed to fasten the plasterboard sheets to the wall around the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

1. Metallic galvanized brand profile "CD" cross section of 60x27 mm is often called ceiling, because it is designed to fasten sheet carcartes to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated based on the fact that the guide ceiling profiles should be evenly located all over the entire ceiling area, with a pitch of 600 mm between them. On trimming this profile, you also need to add 5% of length;
2. In cases where there is some space between the capital and suspended ceiling, special attachments that can be two types are used to mount the ceiling profile:

• Direct P-shaped remote suspension Used in the event that the distance between the main and suspended ceiling is no more than 120 mm;
• Spring wires allow you to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the capital to the distance from 120 to 1000 mm.

1. The number of remote suspensions should be selected with such a calculation so that they can be installed throughout the ceiling area, in increasing no more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse direction;
2. For splicing of guide profiles, metal connectors will be needed along the length, and for the connection of two perpendicular profiles in the same plane - special crabs. The number of crabs is calculated by the formula: the total ceiling profile length / 0.6;

1. The mounting of the metallic frame to the concrete ceiling should be performed using galvanized screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. To attach sheets to a metal frame, use phosphated screws 3.5x25 mm;
2. For putting the joints between sheets and sealing the point of attachment, it will take a reinforcing champyanka glass pack and the finish acrylic putty for drywall.

For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in the kitchen or in the bathroom, I advise you to use moisture-resistant sheets of plasterboard. They have a nomenclature designation of G Clac, and differ in green outdoor layer of cardboard and blue of the letter marking.

Stage 2: Selecting Tools

For the installation of drywall, there is no special equipment on the ceiling, so when finishing works, you can do the usual set of household instruments:

1. To fix the profiles of the carrier frame to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful shock drill;
2. During the work, you will need to twist a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a battery screwdriver for these purposes;

1. To cut the metal profiles to the desired size, you can use a grinder with a cutting disk for metal, manual hacksaw for metal, or scissors for metal;
2. Plasterboard sheets in a straight line are conveniently cutting with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
3. If you need to make a curly cutout on a radius or line curve, for this you can use an electric jigsaw with a wood saw or metal;

1. Hand tools need a square, roulette, construction level, hydraulic or laser level, plumbing cord, medium hammer and plans for mounting the cropped edge of sheets;
2. For the final finish, two metal spatulas with a blade width 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of emery skins with a grain size from P80 to P150.

Installation work on trimming ceiling by plasterboard can be performed from two stepladers, however it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If there is no such table in the household, you can build two small peeps of such a height from the boards or bars, so that the semoluned hand of the standing person freely deliver to the ceiling.

Stage 3: Preparatory Work and Marking

Before performing installation work, you need to fully free the room, make all the furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling coating (foam tile, stretch ceilings, etc.). If the wallpapers are pooled on the main ceiling, which are normal, and do not fall off, then their disassembly should be carried out.

Before starting work, you need to perform gasket and installation of engineering communications (electrical cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioning, etc.), which must be hidden behind the suspended ceiling.

1. In order to mount the plasterboard sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, on the perimeter of the walls you need to apply the corresponding markup;

1. Capital ceiling overlap in residential buildings, far from always happening, therefore when applying marking on the walls, I do not advise to repel from the main ceiling;
2. To apply horizontal lines, the most convenient to use the laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line of the laser beam, apply horizontal marking on each wall;
3. Laser level is quite expensive, so if you do not have it, then for these purposes you can use a hydraulic level that works on the principle of reporting vessels;
4. In an arbitrary location on any wall, it is necessary to put a horizontal label of 10 mm above the level on which the finishing ceiling must be mounted;

1. After that, one person should attach one of the transparent hydraulic tubes to this place, and combine the fluid level in the tube with the stagnant on the wall;
2. The second person must, rearrange the stepladder, put horizontal labels opposite the fluid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each of the angles of the room;
3. After that, all labels on the walls need to be combined with a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary of the installation of the wall guide profile for drywall. The long horizontal line is more convenient to draw not for a ruler, but to beat with chalk with the help of a stretched construction cord;
4. To make more convenient to mount the ceiling profile, in addition to the wall markup, I also recommend applying the ceiling markup control lines;

1. To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls you need to hold an axial line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
2. From the axial line, in each side to the side long walls to postpone an equal number of segments of 600 mm long and connect them with parallel lines. The last segments that will be closer to the wall may turn out any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
3. The same needs to be done between short walls: draw a short axial line, from it in each way to put labels with a range of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. Ultimately, it should be a ceiling in a cell, with a length of each square on the axes of 600 mm.

The hydraulic level is easy to make with your own hands from two transparent tubes with a length of 200-300 mm, with a diameter of 8-12 mm, and a segment of a flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. In approximately the middle of each tube you need to apply two labels, and connect them with each other with a rubber hose, after which, from the tag to the tag, fill the entire system with ordinary water.

Stage 4: Assembly and installation of the carrier frame

After applying the markup, the guide profile "UD" can be consolidated to the walls around the perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to use screws with plastic dowels 6x60 mm, setting them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

In the event that the ceiling in the room is quite smooth, and you do not plan a hidden gasket of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be secured directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, it is necessary to use remote suspensions of one of two types. As an example, I will tell you how to properly mount the profile to the ceiling with perforated P-shaped remote suspensions.

1. First of all, with the help of the same self-tapping and plastic dowels, all remote P-shaped suspensions from the perforated metal strip must be consolidated to the ceiling;

1. For this, we use the markup in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight line of markup, such a number of suspensions should be fixed so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
2. After that, it is necessary to install longitudinal ceiling profiles. For this, one whip of the "CD" profile must be inserted into P-shaped suspensions, and temporarily fix with a long nail or studs;
3. Further, its end will be inside the wall profile, and fix with two screws. After that, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in terms of level, and also consolidate to the legs of each suspension using screws;

1. If the lengths of one whip turns out to be not enough, it can be increasing in the same profile. After it is fixed to all remote suspensions, the free end of it must be started in the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also fasten two screws;
2. Thus, it is necessary to consolidate all longitudinal ceiling profiles. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the axial lines of each profile amounted to exactly 600 mm, with a permissible error of no more than 10 mm in each direction.

1. After that, you need to install transverse jumpers. They are mounted in the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to P-shaped suspensions;
2. The only difference is that all internal jumpers are attached to longitudinal profiles with crabs. Such installation technology allows you to connect two profiles with each other at a right angle in one horizontal plane.

In order to prevent the carrier frame of the carrier in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend setting temporary control diagonals. To do this, it is necessary in the wall guiding profile, in each corner of the room to complete one screws, and then tie them to them, and tighten a thin drop-made thread on the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: Sheet of sheets of plasterboard

When the carrier frame will be fully assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend again checking its geometric sizes, and make sure that it is located strictly horizontally. After that, you can start directly fastening the plasterboard to the ceiling.

Each 0.5 mm thick thickness sheet may have a size of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be performed at least together.

1. Starting the installation of sheets follows from the longitudinal axial lineAt the same time, each sheet should be located in parallel with a long wall;

1. Before installing plasterboard to the ceiling, the first sheet should be applied to the bearing frame in such a way that it does not reach the short wall to the short side, and its long edge passed exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
2. Having established the first sheet in the right position, one person must hold it from below, and press it with his hands to a metal frame, and the second person, meanwhile, should be fixed to the profile by self-draws;
3. Self-tapping screws should be twisted evenly throughout the perimeter of the sheet, with a step of 150-200 mm, while fixing is necessary not only in longitudinal guides, but also into transverse jumpers. Wrap a self-tapping screw needed with such an effort so that the hat is interpreted into a plasterboard plate by about 1 mm;

1. The second sheet should also be pressed to the carrying frame, and resubpes it with a short side to the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, it is necessary to fix one series of sheets on one side of the axial line;
2. It is desirable that the joints of the sheets in the first and in the second row were not located opposite each other. In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be trimmed along the length. So that the sheets are located in a checker order, the second row is better to start both on the opposite side of the room;

1. Similarly, it is necessary to fix all the other sheets of plasterboard, while it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls of 2 mm throughout the perimeter, and their joints have accounted for exactly the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
2. Before attaching the extreme sheets along the long walls, they will need to be cut into width. During trimming and fastening the extreme sheets, it should be borne in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge is close to the adjacent sheet.

In order for the assistant to do not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise you to make one or two wooden backups for drywall. Each backup is a T-shaped construction of 50x50 mm wooden bars, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal plank such a "mop" should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower support foot should be restarted into the floor, and 10-12 mm in height do not reach the carrier frame.

Stage 6: Black Finishing Works

After all the plasterboard sheets are mounted, even at a professional master, small gaps and slots will remain between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be littered with black hats from the self-tapping screws. In order to give it a complete appearance, and prepare for painting or sticking wallpaper, on the final stage of the installation of the suspended ceiling, a rough finish is performed.

I advise you to use ready-made finishing putty on an acrylic basis.

1. Puttooth ceiling is usually performed in two stages. First you need to sharpen all the visible fasteners, hats from the screws, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other major irregularities and surface defects;

1. On the long edges of drywall sheets, the chamfer is usually removed, or a shallow excavation is made. In order for the seams in the time of the seams, in the process of spitting in this garbage, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing glass mesh, which the people are called "Serpent";
2. When the first layer of putty finally hardens, it should be pulled out by the emery sandpaper of medium grain (P80-P100).
3. For sticking tight wallpapers on a thick vinyl or glass-tape basis, such a surface preparation will be enough;

1. If you plan to paint the interior acrylic paint ceiling, I recommend to apply another thin layer of finishing putty, and after it drying, pollute the entire surface of the shallow sandpaper with the graininess of P100-P150;
2. At the end of everything, you need a damp cloth or a soft wide brush to remove fine dust from putty, and apply one or two layers of penetrating primer for internal work throughout the ceiling area.

For grinding the surface after spittle, I advise you to use an electric vibration-link machine with replaceable perforated emery discs on velcro. If there is no such typewriter, then for uniform removal of the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clamps for a rolled emery skirt.

Stage 7: Installation of the ceiling lamp

In any closed room, even with natural lighting, the installation of ceiling lights or chandeliers is required. As is known, the ceiling sheets of drywall have a small thickness (9.5 mm), so they are not able to withstand a significant weight load. Modern household chandeliers may have a rather large scatter in their size and by weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to the plasterboard or metal profile, then for a massive heavy chandelier, this method will not fit.

For those who do not know how to secure the chandelier to the suspended ceiling of plasterboard, I can suggest two simple, but very reliable ways:

1. The first of them is that when installing a metal carrier frame, you need to provide in advance to install a mortgage platform from thick plywood. This method can be used to attach any ceiling lamps weighing up to 20 kg;

• In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, it is necessary to attach a round or square plywood platform with a size of 250x250 mm, and a thickness of at least 20 mm;
• After finishing the ceiling, the lamp can be screwed to the plywood through drywall, conventional vehicle scores with a size of 4.5x50 mm;
• If the chandelier has to hang on the hook, then in the board you need to wrap the mounting hook with a large screw cutting, which is designed to twist into plastic dowels.

1. The second method involves fastening the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the capital ceiling, so it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

• In the event that the interpostral space has a height of more than 200 mm, I recommend to prepare the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing plasterboard sheets;
• If the space between the main and suspended ceiling is less than 200 mm, the hook for fastening the chandelier can be installed after completion of the finishing finish;
• To do this, first cut the hole with a diameter of 50 mm in the drywall, and then with a punch with a bromide 10 mm, the center is drilled in a concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
• On a long-rhy-bolt or a threaded pin with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm, you need to turn the extensive anchor MSA10 from hand.
• Then insert, and slightly score it into the hole in the concrete plate, and wrap the rhy-bolt into the anchor on the thread, until the characteristic metallic screap appears;
• This method is also good in that it allows you to hide the long wires behind the plasterboard ceiling.

To secure a lightweight lamp or chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling, you can use a folding spring anchor. To do this, in the gypok, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm, squeeze the spring-loaded naps of anchor, and push it into the hole. After under the action of the springs, the paws will be burned beyond the drywall sheet, you need to tighten the presser nut.

Conclusion

If on the technical project, the interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference lies in the fact that at first it is necessary to mount a solid drywall coating throughout the ceiling area, and then begin the installation and firing of additional decorative levels and eaves for opening backlight.

All illustrative information on the installation of drywall on the ceilings, you can look at the applied video in this article, and if you have questions, I suggest to discuss them in the form for comments.

Plasterboard structures on the ceiling, so diverse that is not systematization.
Let's start with a simple suspended ceiling.

The ceiling creates a simple single-level framework, its plasterboard and drywall cut lights.
It would seem, a very simple decision without falling, but look at the final result - everything should be harmonized in a general solution.
Approximately the same suspension ceiling - the truth, with edging - in the kitchen perfectly combined with wall decoration and kitchen equipment.

A simple plasterboard box on the ceiling, equipped with lighting devices, when used - appropriate fantasy may be real magic.
Lighting devices placed in plasterboard design - different colors and connected to different lighting wires. And such a connection makes it possible to "play" with light and color - and in each version the room looks in its own way.

When the ceiling height is sometimes on the ceiling "build" multi-level structures like this - the frame is tinted with plasterboard.
Lighting devices are cut into drywall, and such a design complements the extravagant solution of the room.
The designer's fantasy creates not only plasterboard structures on the ceiling, but also on the wall, which looks very good in the overall interior.

In combination with a variety of lighting devices, the room looks very unusual and original.
It would seem that can give a simple rectangle on the ceiling?

But a simple rectangular design in combination with lighting devices looks modest and quite appropriate.
A rectangle or square on the ceiling is a very common solution, and it is most often associated with light. Construct a simple frame, we are trimmed with plasterboard.
Then the lamps are attached to this basis, and the result is a complex of original lighting.
It can be done even easier - a simple frame in the end turns into an original lamp.

Of course, there are more complex and more spectacular solutions using a square of a square of plasterboard. The guide corners are attached to the plasterboard.

Guides form square cells in which the sheets of the milk plexiglass are placed

On the glass impose palm leaves - artificial, of course - and in general, the lighting device resembles a window with branches on the ceiling.

Straight lines in plasterboard structures on the ceiling are completely optional. Using the frame and drywall on the ceiling, you can create a curvilinear design, covering the middle part of the ceiling.
Such "Horseshoe for happiness" with lighting devices in drywall and the center of the ceiling is capable of creating any indoor illumination.

You can build on the ceiling and round drywall design - internal and external

frames are squeezed with drywall and cut holes under the lighting appliances.
Numerous lighting devices allow wide limits to vary the illumination of the room. Although such a variety of lighting options may seem unnecessary.
Round forms of plasterboard structures on the ceiling are not so complex in the manufacture, so they are used quite widely.

Circle made of metal profile on the ceiling, support profiles to the walls.
Plasterboard cover with holes for the luminaire, and the original suspension ceiling is ready.

For separation in the plasterboard design, a gap was made, where they placed the curtain, but in addition, the separate lighting of the zones can additionally "divide" the room.
Instead of a circle, it is possible to build a polygon on the ceiling, cutting into it with an annular saw of a hole iodine lamps and insert lighting fittings.

The polygon of drywall "permeate" beams from old wood, which is well combined with an arched window and walls from the "stone".
The following examples of the ceiling with drywall do not exhaust the entire variety of structures, but even this is enough to apply known advertising slogans to the plasterboard.

Plasterboard eaves - do it yourself

Among the variety of plasterboard structures are very common drywall eaves under the ceiling around the perimeter of the room.
But the drywall construction around the entire room under the ceiling, supplemented by a polystyrene with hidden lamps with hidden fixtures, can completely transform the room. For the edge of the cornice, the system of argon lamps of low power is used.

The thread of such lamps is mounted on the surface of the plasterboard box and is closed by polystyrene foam cornice, from where the dissipated light falls on the ceiling.
In the center of the ceiling (plated wallpaper), the spread made of polystyrene foam, to which the chandelier is mounted, and all together in combination with other details of the decorative finish (box, backlit cornice, chandelier, a fireplace with a mirror) creates a general impression of a festivity.
Plasterboard and eaves allow you to create a bunk backlight, placing lighting devices on tiers.

The plasterboard design is made under the ceiling in such a way as to place the lighting devices over it and behind it, and the cornice profile is placed below the drywall, and the lighting devices are also placed behind this eaves.
Additionally, a plasterboard design is created along the wall at the window to accommodate the sides of the curtain.
The curtains are placed in the opening between the wall and plasterboard, and the bunk backlight gives scattered lighting, and the backlight can be color.
This is how the two-tone bunk lights and chandelier of general lighting look like, it is clearly clearly seen in the last figure that to complete the front wall, the windows are used by polystyrene columns supporting the plasterboard design.

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Plasterboard for many years has been a fairly popular material in construction and repair. From it erected walls, niches, arches, overlap and, of course, the ceilings. Plasterboard sheets in the hands of the wizard can easily turn into a reliable, durable and simultaneously stylish, beautiful and original ceiling construction. In addition, the options for performing a single-level or multi-level ceiling is quite a lot, it all depends on individual preferences and competent installation.

The decoration of plasterboard allows you to draw the ceiling surfaces in almost any style. The shape of the lines, the presence of individual blocks, figured elements - all these elements are determined by the designer sketch. However, there is a fundamental basic part, which consists of three types of ceiling structures, namely:

Plasterboard ceiling in one level

The ceiling surface of this type can simultaneously be both ready-made design and serve as a base for the construction of a more complex ceiling. The construction principle is quite simple. It is originally fastened with a metal frame, then if necessary, electrical work is carried out, further - the casing of the GLC framework, and the final stage will be the finish finish (painting, plaster, pasting with wallpaper, etc.)

Single-level ceilings have a number of advantages, among which you can allocate:

• the ceiling surface lined with plasterboard in one level does not lose the initial appearance even with the overall movement of the foundation;
• when performing the ceiling in one level, the space between the draft and front surface is significantly saved;
• high degree of surface leveling, good way to hide all irregularities and defects of the original ceiling;
• excellent indicators of heat and noise insulation;
• easy installation and subsequent care.

Two- or three-level ceilings

Based on the basis of a single-level ceiling surface. The basic principle is that, the lower the level of the location of the plasterboard sheets, the less their total area, while the installation of each next level occurs on the basis of the previous one. All levels should be combined with each other not only with technical angle, but also from aesthetic point of view, without causing visual discomfort.

The main types of multi-level ceilings are distinguished: frame, diagonal and zonal.

Complex ceiling designs

Externally, it is sufficiently similar to multi-level structures, but their structure is more complex, as it may include curly and patterned elements. In particular, curly ceilings preferably have separate or group convex elements. The abstract type of plasterboard complex ceiling implies the presence of spiral structures, and very often the use of different colors is used at the finishing finish. "Parenting ceiling" implies installation using fittings and metal pins, as well as highly planned backlighting for the creation of air volume.

Plasterboard designs on the ceiling

The design of the ceiling surface with the use of drywall is quite a variable method, while not compliance with any special technological difficulties. Even a novice master can independently build both single-level and complex ceiling plasterboard design, it is enough just to purchase the desired material corresponding to the "toolkit" and remember the main technological provisions.

Required tools

In order for the installation of plasterboard cloths passed without forced problems, the master must take care of such instruments as:

Necessary materials

In addition to the main component element - plasterboard sheets, ceiling, guides and bearing metal profiles, direct suspension, sealing tape, connectors, crabs for profile, dowel and self-tapping screws.

Marking and surface preparation

In order for the future plasterboard ceiling to be smooth, without distillation and deviations from the planned sketch before the immediate start of installation, it is necessary to pre-mark the ceiling surface.

The main goal of such markup is to apply a common horizontal line along the perimeter of walls under the ceiling for further obtaining a smooth ceiling surface. A secondary task will be an additional applying parallels on a concrete or wooden base. It is for these lines that the carrier profile will be attached.

As a rule, the overall horizontal is located below the ceiling surface at a level of 8 to 15 cm. This value depends on the smoothness of the black ceiling, as well as from the complexity of the degree of concentration of communications, which will be located in the space between the concrete (wooden) surface and sheets of drywall.

In applying parallel lines on a draft ceiling, a certain step should be observed between them. Its recommended value is 50-60 cm. It is also worth carefully to observe the parallelism of the valid lines not only among themselves, but also relative to the line of the walls.

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe repaired room is small, then either water or ordinary construction level can be used to control the correctness of the appropriate markup. However, if the ceiling surface area is quite extensive, it is more expedient to apply a non-religion or laser level.

Features of the construction of the carcass

The construction of a frame structure should be made with many technological requirements for the future ceiling to be not only smooth and beautiful, but also durable and safe. To do this, only a certain list of professional recommendations should be observed.

Installation of plasterboard

Installation technology is simple, does not require special knowledge and skills, you should only remember the basic provisions.

When building ceiling designs from drywall, the latter very often has to cut due to the features of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room or the designer nuances of the sketch itself. In order to competently and without further damage to cut GLCs, several general rules should be observed:

Easy installation, minimal "instrumental" and "material" set, simple care and a relatively low cost indicator make ceiling structures for many years enough in demand for finishing the ceiling surfaces of any destination.

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In this material, we will try to help figure out how a relatively short period and with minimal costs using plasterboard structures can be installed the ceiling, wall shelves and niches, which will serve as an alternative to frame furniture. I am confident that the performance of such work is under the power of any technically competent person.

The main materials used in the installation of plasterboard designs:

1. UD / CD profile is the framework of the base plane of the ceiling and the console element.
2. UW / CW-frame profile free modular wall design and shelves.
3. Plates of wall GLC 12.5 * 1200 * 2500.
4. Suspension straight "P" shaped type CD60.
5. Fastening "Quick Installation" 6 * 60mm - Installation of the UD-profile.
6. Electric cable SVVVP SEC. 2 * 2.5 (sockets), 2 * 1.5 (switches, lighting).
7. Facial plastic bar 12.5mm for GKL.

1st stage. Construction of the 1st Tier Suspended Ceiling

Using the usual water level or linear laser level, make horizontal leveling of the room. We carry out the installation of the frame of the 1st tier of the ceiling. Mounting around the perimeter to the walls we produce dowels 6 * 60 mm. Ceiling construction from CD profile BREATM on "P" of shaped suspensions with a frequency of 600 mm. Depending on the material that was used for the manufacture of the ceiling overlap, fix the brackets with dowels 6 * 60 mm, if it is a concrete overlap or wood screws, if it is a female overlap.

Longitudinal supporting profiles for plasterboard mounted with a frequency of no more than 400 mm. On transverse joints we provide specialized planks. They are mounted on the "crab" connector.

It should be remembered whether to check the correct placement of the output wiring for the main and auxiliary lighting in the console elements of the ceiling construction.

2nd stage. We produce installation of the 2nd tier ceiling with a console element

Lower it from the 1st no more than 100 mm. The frame is mounted throughout the perimeter with an indent from a wall of 300 mm along its inner part and, accordingly, 400 mm on the outer (photo 1).

The transverse profile mounted with a frequency, multiple length of the room, but not less than 500 mm. We exclude the hitting of the jacks of plasterboard directly along the axes of intersection of the outer slopes of two adjacent walls (photo 2).

When cladding GLCs on the frame fastened it with an insolence of 100 mm throughout the perimeter (photo 3).

The console element invested in this way has internal slope, which will be in the consequence of "blind" and not affordable. It is recommended to make it a finish under painting already at this stage.

3rd stage. We produce the installation of the external slope of the console element

To do this, we make a 60 mm wide bandwidth from the GLC band. Well align them from the end, using stripping rashpil. To the end of the strip we put on a plastic bar, which will protect it in the future from moisture and swelling at the finishing stage. Then fix the strip on the UD profile of the desired length (photo 5)

and now we mount the entire element to the edge of the console element (photo 6).

4th stage. Alignment of the curvature of walls by glue technology

Pre-remove old wallpaper with glue residues. To prepare highly absorbed bases (concrete, plastered) we use acrylic soil of deep penetration or contact soil. Drying time is 4-6 hours. Then glue the GLC to the surface of the walls on special gypsum glue, aligning them in horizontal and vertical planes (photo 7 and 8).

Time setting 40 min, the time of complete drying at room temperature is 12 hours.

5th stage. Installation of wall-mounted design of plasterboard

When developing the design of this room for the manufacture of wall niches and shelves, it was proposed to replace the furniture chipboard of the design to modular designs from drywall.

We make marking on the walls according to the prepared drawings. Modules frameworks made from a shared UD / CW profile. For fastening the frame to the walls, we use the Dowel "Quick Installation" 6 * 60 mm (photo 10 and 11).

Here it is also necessary to provide styling of an electrical cable for power outlets and lighting in niches (photo 12).

In the photo below the finished design to the finish finish.