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How to make slopes from plastic with your own hands. Window slopes from PVC - features and detailed installation. Advantages of plastic slopes

After installing new plastic windows, the question arises how to install PVC window slips without attracting specialists. Choose material and spend your work. Our today's article will help you.

What role do window slips perform?

Installing PVC windows ended, however, you notice that something is missing, and the window itself looks sloppy and even rude? The reason is the lack of slopes that should be installed. The main problem when installing new windows is that installing without removing old slopes and parts of the wall will not be able to do any professionals. So it turns out that the window block after installation looks like after the bombing. To create complete harmony and merging windows with the interior of the apartment you will have to restore the slopes.

Today there are various ways to finish the window opening: the use of plaster and paint (traditional) and the use of plastic slopes (modern).

Undoubtedly, the first option will allow you to enjoy a beautiful appearance for a long time, but only if you spend restoration work in a couple of years. At the same time, the complexity of the work is at a high level. But the installation of PVC slopes can even hold a new building. Yes, and takes the execution of this work an order of magnitude less time. If you decide that you can live without slopes, it will not only spoil the appearance, but it can cause the appearance of strong drafts, which will lead to heat loss.

Why choose plastic slopes for PVC windows?

To answer this question, it is worth examining all possible materials that can be used to create slopes. This will allow you to appreciate all their advantages and disadvantages, compare among themselves.

Types of slopes:

  • Plaster. If we talk about plaster slopes, then they are more minuses than pluses. First of all, the plaster in a short time begins to crack, loses the brightness of the shade due to the direct effect of the sun's rays, and when the building is sent, it can move away from the walls. In addition, disappells can be attributed to the inconvenience associated with the time of work. Slopes are plastered at least two or three layers, each of which should dry, to which it takes time. After that, the surface is ground and painted. Conducting works can take up to several weeks. Also, such slopes do not provide for the creation of suitable thermal insulation, which will lead to the appearance of condensate.
  • Sucks from hyposkarton. Such products are more durable replete, and if they insulate their mini, they give very high thermal insulation indicators. But there are also disadvantages: GLC sheets are afraid of moisture, and therefore the high level of waterproofing is not about them. That is why such slopes are suitable only for installation of indoors with a low humidity level.
  • The current solution is the slopes from PVC, with their own hands that can be mounted quite simple. The benefits of this material have a lot. First of all, this is a quick installation, simplicity and ease of care, plastic does not fade into the sun. In addition, such slopes will serve you at least 15 years. If you carefully select the slopes under the shade of the window frame, the harmony between the products will be perfect. Using Minvatu, you will provide excellent heat and noise insulation.

True, there are some minuses. So, for example, such slopes have a low level of resistance to mechanical damage, and therefore it should be carefully related to the cleaning of a common wet cloth. Also be careful by installing PVC panels for window slopes. As follows from the famous saying, it is better to measure seven times and only then cut. If there is still some kind of oversight, use a conventional silicone smear to seal PVC.

Installing PVC slopes with your own hands

Installation of plastic slopes for all rules will allow the window openings to look at 100%, the windows will not be scary humidity, you will forget about possible cracks on the surface. But this is possible only if the installation work will be carried out in compliance with all rules and rules. We will talk about it.

How to install PVC slopes with your own hands - step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Cooking the surface

You can start the installation in a day after the installation of the window block. Going to the window, you will find a large amount of mounting foam, which appears on the junctions between profiles and wall. It must be trimmed, for what to use the sharp stationery knife. After that, the surface of the slopes is cleared of dust and dirt.

Step 2: Installation of the guide profile

First, find out the size of profiles at the outer edge using the measuring roulette. Also, do not forget to measure the outer profile width and the distance from the top of the window to the windowsill. By the way, before carrying out work, it is best either to remove part of the frame, or a little bend the film.

As a guide, it is customary to use the P-shaped profile of the desired width that is cut to the necessary elements. For this work, use better. After that, the profile is fastened to the outer part of the window frame with screws, while the fasteners should go every 20 cm. Similarly also fasten upper and lateral profiles.

Step 3: Installation of clamping elements

To create a crate, it is necessary to use wood rails with a cross section of 2 * 4 cm. Fasten them on the far corner of the discovery from above and on the sides. To fix the rails, use the dowels, the distance between the nails should be around 30 cm. It is important that the lamp is perfectly smooth, for which it is possible to use the plane - with this tool, it is gentle by the thickness of the plates. At the end of the work, check the flattering level.

In the conditions of urban life (and in many villages), plastic windows have long been evaluated from the symbol of wealth to everyday phenomenon. Specialists are engaged in the installation of windows, since there are neuances in the installation process, unknown to a simple man in the process. But it is possible to finish the design of the new opening and independently - installing the slopes from the plastic on the windows.

The case is complicated only at first glance. When there is a detailed instruction and a list of materials / tools at hand, each owner of the house will be able to easily cope with the task.

When you need to do slightly on the windows

Often, after installing windows, the owners do not agree to the professional due to this with a considerable price of the service. Often you can hear that the window does not suffer from the fact that some time will "live" without proper design. However, such an opinion is delusion. Few people succeeded shortly after installing the structures independently strengthen the discovery made from plastic. That time is not enough, then laziness, but you never know any interference ...

In reality, everyone, a truly knowledgeable specialist, not calls not one reason why the window must be "brought to mind" as quickly as possible:

  • mounting foam, which pour slots and gaps after installation, quickly destroyed under the influence of sunlight;
  • in the foam, due to its porous structure, moisture easily falls, which can both lead to the appearance of mold and when freezing to destroy the processed area;
  • over time, the gaps between foam and the window frame may appear due to atmospheric influences, and all the efforts of professionals will be in vain;
  • unlocked foam quickly loses its abilities to thermal insulation.

This is not the entire list of reasons, but it is enough to understand that the discovered from plastic (with their own hands or with the help of professionals is not important) must be configured, without postponing things in a long box.

Selection of materials for slopes

Created from plastic Sucks are used for the inner and outer decoration of the building. For each type of work, certain tools and materials will be needed. It will correctly be in advance to collect everything you need in one place. So, the list of materials:

  1. Directly panel PVC. Choosing them, you need to know exactly including the depth, which determine the width of the panel.
  2. Plastic will require the acquisition of the F-profile to bump out the outer side.
  3. The side of the adjacent edge of the P-profile (it may not be useful if the stamped area throughout the perimeter is wider than 2 cm).
  4. Scotch for painting works.
  5. Mounting foam - pair of cylinders.
  6. Glue capable of drying quickly.
  7. White acrylic silicone.

Required tools

We give a list of tools, with which we will stake slopes with plastic. You can not bring the window openings to the mind - to build a palace! There would be a desire, well, of course, certain skills. So, for our work we will need:

  1. Triangle, pencil and roulette - for accurate measurements and outline angles.
  2. A special gun applied to cylinders with (he does not need if the balloon has nozzle).
  3. Bulgarian or Hoven for Metal - To quickly cut out of plastic sloping of the desired size. Although, with a large desire and the absence of such tools, you can use a large stationery knife - just cook for him more spare blades.
  4. Pistol for squeezing silicone and sealants of tubes.

When everything is ready, you can proceed to a detailed study of the instructions on the stages of work.

Processing outdoor slope

You can choose, how to close the slope from the outside of the house. Tips for using silicone-based sealants or polyurethane sealing tape with self-sewing ability.

This is a good method, but the grip of paint for the facade with sealants leaves much to be desired, and after some time the bases can be detached from each other, having deprived the foam of the necessary protection. This must be taken into account by deciding the question of the sealing

The best option is plastering glue used for tiles. Its resistance to the influence of moisture and frost will be the perfect argument in favor of the method of processing slopes.

Internal slopes

From the side of the residential premises, it can be embossed in different ways. Previously, all windows were separated by plaster by virtue of the simplicity of its application and the low value of the material. Unfortunately, the plaster can lead to the supercooling of the slope and the accumulation of condensate. Therefore, at present, the slopes made from plastic are increasingly preferred.

The main stages of manufacture

At the first stage there are two options:

  1. When the gap between the wall and the opening windows is wider than two centimeters, the irregularities of the filled foam are trimmed, and the groove is made in it, the thickness of which corresponds to the plastic panel. So prepare the entire perimeter of the box.
  2. If the width of the gap is limited to two centimeters or less, then we remove only those areas of frozen foams that may interfere with the installation.

Stage second. The preparation of panels to the installation begins. It is necessary to determine how the panel will be shrink - at a right angle or at an angle of 45 °. More aesthetically looks like an acute bog. The necessary measurements are made (here we will use a roulette, a simple pencil and a triangle). Then the tool is then cutting off future slopes. Ensure the correctness of measurements by applying to the desired installation site.

The third stage of work implies the installation of plastic blanks. The panels are attached either on the glue, applied to the groove, or inserted into the P-profile-glued to the box. The remaining slots between the wall and the slopes are foam, which will keep the design well.

In this case, this material is applied with a thin strip, which will expand in the process (the expansion percentage indicates the cylinders). If you move with foam, it, having increased, deform plastic.

So that this does not happen, and the slopes turned out to be smooth, the plastic panels are attached to the wall with painting tape.

After drying, the foam comes the fourth stage of fastening of slopes. It consists in gluing the F-profile around the perimeter of the opening.

The final stage is silicone stamps. It is neatly applied to the seam and smoothed by a wet rag.

Summing up, it will be useful for several words to say about the advantages and disadvantages of such slopes.

Advantages of the application of plastic panels

  1. PVC materials are distinguished by a very long service life.
  2. The total costs of all products will not hit the family budget, since plastic panels are distinguished by a democratic price.
  3. Ease of installation and low installation time (one slope is mounted for about 60 minutes).
  4. Easy care. They are wiped without any problems or wash warm water with a soft detergent.

What are the shortcomings

  1. Plastic is known for its softness and insuffosura to mechanical damage. When dents or crack appear, you will have to replace the panel completely.
  2. PVC products do not apply to the category of environmentally friendly. Sleeve comments.
  3. Plastic is extremely flammable and toxic with burning.

Now that everything is prepared, the characteristics of the material and the instructions for working with it are studied, there should be no questions about whether from plastic.

This article describes the most common method of final design of the opening of plastic windows. It is easy to perform and does not require a large number of consumables.

No window will look complete, if it does not have slopes. Therefore, in front of the owners of housing, when changing the window design or installing a new one invariably, the question arises, how to separate the slopes of windows with plastic, and why this material is better than others.

What are the advantages of decoration plastic

Undoubtedly, plastic is not the only material that is produced. You can use conventional plaster with subsequent putty and staining with various compositions, or drywall, which also requires further work on putting the putty and color. With regard to plaster slopes, it can be said that it cannot be done by their own forces. It also requires professional skill and skill.

But the plastic used is good, which combines the perfectly smooth surface in itself, like the drywall and the absence of painting or occasional work. In addition, the slopes decorated with plastic once do not require further repair or periodic color.All departure is wiped with a damp cloth. Therefore, recently, the finishing of window slopes plastic has gained wide popularity.

In just one day, you can make the facing of all the slopes in the house, which is much faster, if they are engaged in plastering or trimming by plasterboard. In addition, the use of plastic panels makes it possible to make the insulation of slopes, if they make a layer of heat insulating material under them. A wide selection of panels in the color palette and texture will help to harmoniously entertain them in the already existing interior of the room. And in terms of the cost of plastic products are available to almost all segments of the population. With neat operation, their life life can be calculated not one tenth years.

Specifications of PVC panels and sandwich panels

PVC panels or plastic sandwich panels are used to produce such works. Both those and others can be applied to facing window slopes inside the house. Their difference is that the conventional PVC panels have inside the rigid rib, not filled with nothing, while the sandwich panel is a three-layer structure, where a layer of insulation is located between two layers of plastic. It often uses polyurethane foam, as the most responsible material - safety, and environmental safety.

If you do not know how to separate the slopes of windows with plastic and at the same time make insulation, you should use the PVC sandwich panels.

Plastic products create a perfectly smooth and smooth surface. They produced panels, with dimensions in length from 2700 mm to 6000 mm. The width of the standard products varies in the range of 100 mm - 370 mm. However, they now appeared on sale panels and greater width, which reaches 50 cm. Such plastic panels have sufficient strength that the ribs of stiffness are provided vertically with respect to the facial sides of the product. The aircraft generated at the same time create reliable protection from cold and noise.

Plastic, which is used in the production of panel data, can withstand temperature differences with a difference ± 20. But there are also such products that this limit comes up to ± 50. The top, the front side of the panel is decorated with various drawings (using offset or thermal printing, lamination) and is coated with a protective film from a special varnish, which is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, wear, static electricity and other negative impacts.

How to separate the slopes of windows plastic - Preparatory work

Before you start installing, you need to clean the place of work from the construction trash, cut the mounting foam bumps. After that, it is necessary to work on preventing education under plastic panels of mold and fungi with special means that all elements falling under plastic - walls, frame elements, windowsill.

After that, we proceed to the framework of the frame for fastening future plastic panels. The frame, of course, is said loudly, our design will be a wooden rail, bought from the external perimeter of the window opening. The rail should be chosen with a thickness of 8-10 mm, a width of 25-30 mm.

When choosing, you need to look carefully on the quality of the racket itself and wood. It should be dry, not damaged by insects, but the product is smooth along the entire length, without twisted and bluish spots, which indicate the start of the rotation process. For mounting the rail to the designs frame, we will need a dowel and self-tapping screws.

Plastic panels are quite hard material and cannot close all the smallest slits on the joints of the window - the wall through which the cold air will subsequently penetrate. That this does not happen, the decoration of the windows of windows plastic involves the laying of insulation materials between the wall and the finishing material. This may be: a thin layer of mineral wool, isolon, polystyrene foam or any other insulation. Such a gasket reliably protect the inner space of the house from drafts and street noise. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is not more than the thickness of the frame rack. For its attachment, any adhesive composition is used, it is important for us to fix the insulation in a vertical position until it is pressed the plastic panel.

Decoration of slopes plastic with their own hands

After checking the level of correctness of the installed wooden rail, relative to the vertical and horizontal, proceed to the installation of the starting profile. This is a special P-shaped element in which the plastic panel is inserted. The profile on the inner perimeter of the window opening is attached directly to the window frame with small self-draws (clouds), which are screwed into the inner lower part of the profile. Horizontal elements are attached to the windowsill. The upper horizontal segments of the P-shaped profile with one edge are sewn to a wooden rail, others are inserted into the vertical element. Special accuracy is required when docking all items to look like everything and beautiful. At the same time, the insulation layer remains between the profile and the wall with the minimum gap.

At the outer edge of the window opening, an F-shaped profile is installed, so that its wide shelf logs onto the wall (by the type of corner). Now you only need to insert plastic panels in profiles, inwards in which there should be a certain amount of acrylic sealant in advance, after which the external framing element is glued to the wall using liquid nails. It is necessary to carefully bend the shelf, insert the bearer of the balloon with glue and gently across the entire length of the slope to apply the composition, after which the shelf of the F-shaped profile bent renewed earlier and hold it in this state until the glue is captured.

In the event that the width of plastic panels is larger than the width of the vertical slope, the panel is reduced using a conventional stationery knife. The connection of the vertical panels and the horizontal top is closed by a special plastic corner of the same color as the main finishing material. For greater reliability, the corners are glued with liquid plastic. It is possible to mask a wooden rail in the upper part of the window opening, climbing the plastic platband from the outside.

One of the issues of pressing during the repair or purchase of new housing is the quality of installation of windows. And in particular their appearance and the level of finishing.

You may not come to taste how it is made in a new apartment, or it needs to be carried out during the repair.

There is even such a question that it is possible to separate internal slopes in different and very different methods: plaster, plastic, siding, wood. All this will also be below.

Do not think that the slopes perform an exceptionally aesthetic function. They also help improve the soundproof and heat conservation indicators. Accordingly, it is necessary to approach the setting of slopes, no less responsibly than the installation of the windows themselves.

Slopes indoors for plastic windows independently

We'll figure it out what slough is. This side and lower part of the windows niches. The lower one is familiar to us because the windowsill is installed on it. All that on the sides of it and there is a slope.

Without his finishing, the installation of the window is impossible. It can be easier and cheap, or exquisite and designer. The decoration of slopes can even become a chief of the interior in the house. But they perform the protective function, for example, prevent moisture from entering the installation seam.

If you decide that, scoring seams by mounting foam, you can completely prevent heat from the apartment from the apartment, you are mistaken. The structure of the foam is such that it absorbs moisture, and is amenable to external influences. It will take quite a bit of time, and it will begin to lose its integrity.

Namely, the slopes provide foam the necessary protection, increase the insulation, also play the role of decor.

What are the slopes for the PVC windows

In the process of installing the glass package, professionals will make everything necessary from the windows and installation work to the "settings" of the window. And they will also be suggested with pleasure. But you will have to decide on their species.

Excluding extremely expensive and designer finishes, on the market there are suggestions of such types and materials of slopes:

  • Plastic,
  • Plasterboard,
  • Wood,
  • Metal,
  • Styrofoam,
  • Plaster.

We will get acquainted with some of them more detailed.

Slopes from plaster

In fact, this is the one and the most difficult, and at the same time, not the best finishes. The process itself is divided into several parts. First you need to cover the entire surface of the primer. It is necessary that subsequent materials are well settled.

Then there is a plaster. The slope is covered by 2 layers, and the next one cannot apply until the previous one is dry. The layers are separated by a special grid, and the cracks and gaps of the window are clogged with silicone.

The plaster can cope with the function of the decor, but it will not protect the seams from external influences, the windows from fogging, and the room from the heat loss.

Plasterboard option

When installing slips from drywall, no less stages are done than with putty:

  1. Insulation is stacked
  2. Commusted,
  3. Primer and putty are applied,
  4. After complete drying, the slope is painted.

If all this is done qualitatively, such slopes are durable, attractive outwardly, and do not poorly retain heat. This, and sound insulation, will depend on the quality of wool or foam, which are substituted under drywall.

A noticeable minus of such a material - he does not like water. In the premises where high humidity or outside of the building is expected, it is better not to use it.

Plastic slopes

At the moment, this is the most popular option of slopes. This is explained:

  • Availability of prices
  • Ease of installation
  • Strength and ease of material
  • High levels of isolation from noise and heat loss,
  • Great view.

This material can be called universal for this assembly solution. You can use it outside the construction. A kind of plastic slope is the "sandwich panel". It practically replaced the classic plastic for these needs.

The panel is well suited for the side walls of the window niche. Sandwich has three layers: two external, and insulated layer between them (expanded polystyrene foam). It practically does not differ externally from the frames of the plastic window. Therefore, no additional decor will be needed anymore.

An unambiguous plus of this panel will also be a huge number of decorative solutions. Unless it is difficult to choose from a variety of colors. They are also sold in the form of a "semi-finished product" of the finished slope, for those who decide to install on their own.

But this is a robot painstaking and requires at least minimal knowledge and understanding of the procedure. But it is also possible to cope with it.

Separately, it is possible to highlight this type of material to seal the slop, as PVC foamed panels. They possess almost all the theme of the same qualities as the plastic with the "sandwich".

Paints from plastic for interior decoration

When the installation of windows is complete, it is worth starting to sleep. You can choose from several finishing options. But if you stopped on plastic, study detailed options for materials for these needs.

Now they are mainly offered two options for plastic slopes: the so-called sandwich and the usual PVC panels. They differ in price, and have differences in characteristics.

Slopes for the inside of the room from the PVC panel

The PVC panel, designed for the walls, is suitable for finishing of the slope. This is a cheaper material compared to Sandwich. It will provide an excellent appearance, uniform color, and a smooth surface. In this case, the panel does not need additional paint, whether other processings.

The structure of this material is simple, it consists of two plastic bands, which in the middle are separated by another "corrugated" layer. It is called rigid ribs. It is important about them to remember because the poor-quality external layer can "print" on itself this ribbon after installation. Poor quality will also make the panels with yellowish with time, or even pokore them.

In general, speaking, about the PVC window and all structural parts, details that are necessary for the full installation, it is important to recall the savings. Rather, about what it is not worth it for this. If you expect that the purchase will serve you for a long time, then choose quality, not low cost.

Returning to the PVC panels, it is worth noting that it goes as a standard width size - 25 cm. If the side walls are wider, it is better not to use the jack panels, but to give preference in a different type of plastic finish - sandwich panels.

Using Sandwich Panels

The structure of the sandwich panel speaks for itself. It is like a sandwich of two parts with a layer in the middle. It looks like an ordinary PVC wall panel. But if in the last one between the external sheets of the floor hollow ribs, the sandwich panel is filled with special foam. As a rule, it is polystyrene or foam.

With the help of such a "filling", the panel has the highest heat insulation indicators. Sandwiches have different thickness and, which is important for a variety of colors. They also have a significant size, so 25 cm are suitable for window niches.

The disadvantages of sandwich panels include instability to the excessive aggressive impact of the external environment. This means that it is impossible to use them on the street. For outdoor finishing, ask metal materials.

As for the price of the "Sandwich" - it is more than an ordinary PVC panel. But the difference is about 300 rubles for the usual window with two sash.

The subtleties of the installation of plastic slopes for the window

The window and slope in practice are inseparable. It is about the same as the window without glasses. Without high-quality sloping, the service life of the accessories is reduced. Since the main function of this element can be called not even aesthetic moment, but protective.

Sucks closes the seams from external influences: temperatures, damage, sun rays.

Once again to remind and emphasize these moments, because at some point a person may "be" for beauty, instead of quality.

Definition of Sleeping and its purpose

It is unlikely that the dictionary is spelled out the literary concept of slope. But it is possible to formulate it in general. And in fact, this is a profile, with the help of a finish of the side parts of the window niche.

But it is worth noting that this is not a complete designation. So, as in this article we are talking about PVC windows, so they stop at this. And the slopes are also successful and often installed on the doors. The brightest example is a balcony. The same finish and windows, and doors on occur often, and is also beautiful and logical.

Therefore, all of the above, and what will be told below for window slopes are automatically used on the slopes of the door. Of course, in the context of decoration indoors. If the opposite is indicated.

And so, as already mentioned, the slopes perform two important tasks. The one we remember more often about the window decoration. And the one that is still more important - protective.

Due to such distribution of priorities, some have a question - is it possible to perform the installation of slopes not simultaneously with the installation of the window itself. The question is controversial. Here we will remember the external finish. It is necessary that it must be performed immediately. If the seams indoors are not to succumb to the environment, then it is enough to go with rain and knock on the frost, and the integrity of the mounting foam will suffer.

Pupil, she does not like straight sun rays very much, and begins to collapse under the influence of ultraviolet almost the first day. Secondly, it is not friendly with moisture, which reduces its ability to thermal insulation.

The advantages of plastic slopes for PVC windows

The current market provides a good choice of material and options. This is swinging and slopes. Many prefer plastic and its varieties. It is easy to understand such a choice, especially familiarizing with the advantages of sloping from this material.

We will not discharge and the fact that, having decided to put a plastic window, people take a plastic window sill. Why not put in that case and slightly out of the same or similar material?

Such a choice of slopes complements the appearance of the window to the "full set". And perfectly copes with protective functions. It is impossible not to note the simplicity of installation, and care for such an element. As well as his practical eternity:

  • Do not affect ultraviolet
  • No moisture is afraid
  • Not terrible temperature difference,
  • Does not deteriorate from most acids and solvents,
  • Do not need special care,
  • Not terrible mold and insects.

For the manufacture of both the material itself and directly discovery in this form, as we know, use the latest materials. They are durable, safe, and practically heat-proof.

How is the installation of slopes from plastic

We have already determined that the most often customers choose plastic slopes, and among them prefer sandwich panels. The latter are often filled in inside the foamy frozen substance "Penopelex". It is also used for thermal insulation on large-scale construction sites because it is one of the newest materials.

The distance from the window itself, to plastic slope is filled with liquid plastic. This is PVC glue, which recently appeared on the big market. It definitely wins in front of silicone, putty, illustrate other materials that can be used for the same purpose.

The peculiarity of this substance is that it acquires similar plastic on the window appearance, up to color and texture. For "full compliment", the windows can be added corners that close the slice of the slope and cover the angle. They are also selected in color, and completely merge with the rest of the design elements.

But this does not mean that it is solely about classic white materials. Now there is a huge number of color panels that will help to supplement any design. In addition, there is such an element as a laminating film. The German brand Renolit is mainly used. It is "stretched" into the panel, and the latter acquires any desired color.

Pre-training before installation

Professionals are not in vain trust the installation of PVC windows because it is a time-consuming and thin process. It is necessary to carry out measurements, stripping, carry out the installation itself, adjust the fittings. With all this, the installation technology should be adhered. At a minimum, after a series of all these actions, the Customer will be able to count on a certain period of warranty.

But some points such as the installation of slopes can be assigned to their own shoulders.

First, you will need to deal with their views, choose a color, decide on the material. With regard to what the slopes can make, they happen:

  • Wooden
  • Metal,
  • Plastic (sandwich and wall panel),
  • From plaster
  • Plasterboard.

But for several reasons, plastic options are the most common. One of these reasons is that after the end of the entire procedure, the window together with the slopes is visually merged into a single whole.

To the other reasons for the popularity of plastic slope, we will take: competitive value with high quality, lightness and speed of installation, unpretentiousness in care, a variety of colors.

Before starting self-installation, you must first determine what it will be needed. Before this list should be filled again that there can be no savings here. Non-quality materials will last long, rupture, and as a result you will spend much more money.

First - select and purchase plastic panels and corners. Give preference to plastic not thinner 8 mm. Carefully follow the dimensions of the panel, the depth depth and the width of the plastic must coincide.

Second - collect the necessary set of tools. In general, this is a completely standard "repair kit" from roulette, hammer and screwdrivers, drills and self-tapping screws, silicone mounting foam and fixtures, which will allow them to take advantage of the workshop and / or spatula, as well as veosals.

Third - we collect all building materials. There is no reason without a profile of F-shaped, starting strip and tape, insulation, mixtures with cement for construction works, self-samples in size and clips.

Only by collecting all of the above, the independent installation of slopes becomes possible. And pay attention, only after 1.5, it is better 2 days after mounting the window, you can start the installation of the slope. During this period, the mounting foam must completely dry.

How plastic slopes make

First you need to prepare the window and the surface of the wall. Remove the adhesive tape, which remains on the surface of the plastic window. Carefully tempt the irregularities and cracks that you will see from the outside.

This is necessary in order to protect the outer seam, and the mounting foam, which does not like to directly enter the sun's rays, and destroys the ultraviolet.

If you did not acquire the cement mixture specifically for such a case, you can do the whole solution intended for the outer finish. When all materials are dried, paint your paint spacing from the outside, and start doing the inside.

The first thing you need to install the database, the role of which will play the starting strip. To do this, make measurements, and do not forget about "Singing 7 times - one cut", and cut the right piece. Using self-tapping screws, make a circle to the band to the profile. This will be our base for slopes from plastic.

Then proceed to the "creating" of the most panels. Start with the one that will be located on top, then descend on the sides. Using the measurements of the upper opening, cut the piece of plastic the desired form. Insert it into the grooves located on the starting page. Repeat all the same for two side panels.

Even if you have an "Eye Almaz", it is better to arma with the level or plumb. There are several fundamental requirements for our resulting design. These include:

  • Leave the gap between the plastic and the basis of about 2 centimeters to fill it with foam,
  • Measure the corner profile in different places so that the turn of the side parts does not turn out to be not the same from different sides,
  • All that acts, sticks out and not in size - correct immediately and only by the mounting knife,
  • At the joints of the panels, the cuts are preferably covered with the remnants of the starting profile.

Subsequent stages of work on plastic slope

Continuing work on the trim of plastic slopes, we take for F - shaped profile. It needs to make special edging.

The system does not change - first make the upper element, then the two remaining. There is another subtlety here. Where the profile will stick to need to make "mirror" trims in 45 degrees so that they come together.

Having done such a piece of work, you will come up to a very responsible part. It will be necessary to fill the foam all the slots and emptiness. The complexity is that the Golden Middle is needed here. If the air meetings remain, it may continue to harm the slope. But do not forget that foam expands when frozen. And if you apply it too much, it will break and deform plastic.

Apply foam from the base of the window throughout the perimeter, and it is advisable to do it in the form of jumpers between the panel and the previous slope. The next ball of foam apply in the UGU of the slope, and in the resulting space, place the previously made F - shaped profiles.

You can safely glue them using a scotch. And so that the foam is well bludging with the surface, it can be slightly moistened. But not too abundantly.

Slightly in less than half an hour, the foam will freeze so much that everything made by us will become stable. It will only be left to close the slit silicone or sealant.

The last thing that remains is clean and aesthetic moments. That is, it is necessary to close all flaws, most often arising near the window sill, and clean the surfaces.

A few more necessary advice that will help cope with the task easier and much better

  • Never save on quality plastic
  • Carefully select the shades of the profile to the window, better in daylight,
  • Panels have a special spike, it needs to be cut off before starting work,
  • Cut the plastic exclusively by mounting knife, or an electrolovka,
  • Choose a low extension foam, as well as fix the slope until the foam does not dry a bit,
  • If you want to put additional isolation, do it before gate,
  • If Scotch left traces on the plastic, remove them with a small number of acetone,
  • The opening, which will be under the windowsill, you need to schoop.

There are not enough processes, and some require concentration and "not curves" hands. But you can do everything yourself. In addition, every time looking out the window, you will understand that this is your job.

Types of slopes, and what better to choose?

There are several basic types of slopes. Each is distinguished by the installation mechanism, price and characteristics.

  1. Sucks from plaster Some of the oldest. They are very ordinary and cheap. The price can also be indicated as one of the main advantages. Also, plus the fact that it is easy to do. For disadvantages, we will write a short service life. Without additional care and protection, it differs in insignificant strength. But the main deficiency of plaster as a slope is bad heat insulation. Because of this, the structural integrity of the surface may be disturbed, condensate will occur on it. And ultimately, this will lead to the appearance of cracks.
  2. The slopes from the tree are mainly under the wooden frame. Against the background of plastic, the tree will not always even look winning. Most often used beech, oak or larch wood. Such slopes are not very popular. First, they are expensive, secondly, put into the set to wooden windows, which are even more rare now.
  3. Ducks from drywall are not very expensive, but need additional processing such as anti-grapple coating. Then the surface you need to be immersed and pumped. Before this wall should be cleaned of pieces of plaster. After the putty dry sleeps, you can paint or stick with wallpaper. But takes how to work with plasterboard, it is better to have preliminary skills to work with this material.
  4. Finally, plastic slopes. For many indicators, the title of better choice can deserve. They are most convenient in operation, and very simply mounted. Moreover, they are ideal for plastic windows. If you choose the tone of plastic for sloping the same as in the window (what to do is very simply in mind the diversity), they will merge into a single harmonious design. Another plus of high-quality plastic slopes is their resistance to external influences: ultraviolet, temperatures, not critical mechanical damage. Also, they are perfectly preserved warm and well, isolated sounds. No liquid building materials will not be needed for mounting plastic. And all about everything is enough for 3-4 hours.
  5. There are more interesting options for taking slopes. For example, cork panels. They are made from cork oak, and come to an interesting interior. Naturally, they are absolutely eco-friendly, have an exotic appearance, interesting to the touch and are presented in a fairly wide color scheme.

What tools and remedies are needed for the installation of slopes

If you have decided to make the slopes from the plastic with your own hands, you will have to stock up not only for patience, but also a set of tools, as well as building materials.

You will not be able to do without:

  • Actually plastic panel,
  • Plastic corners
  • Mounting knife and / or metal scissors
  • Hacksaws
  • Glue, liquid nails, silicone

Installing the slopes of plastic itself

You will have to release quite a lot of space in the room, to conveniently stay, and place all the necessary materials. In the preparation process, purchase and prepare everything on the list:

  • Plastic for slopes are not thinner than 8 millimeters,
  • P-shaped and F-shaped profiles
  • Starting strip
  • Insulation, can be both foam and wool,
  • Rake and level,
  • Roulette
  • Drill and self-tapping screws (some about 95 mm long, other 4.5 mm),
  • Metal spatula and scissors,
  • The stapler naturally not a stationery,
  • Mounted knife
  • Solution with cement and silicone sealant.

Before you start directly, you need to lead to the desired type of wall. They need to be cleaned from all over: wallpaper, pieces of plaster, paint. The ultimate recommendation go through the wall with antifungal solution.

Be sure to look at what is happening on the outside. All cracks need to be smeared with cement mortar. If the integrity of the external seams is broken outside, the mounting foam from ultraviolet will suffer, and the strength of the seam itself will be questionable.

What steps need to go to install plastic slopes yourself

Already not a preparatory stage, but not yet the installation itself begins with the screws. The window openings, where there will be a future slope, rake is put. For this, we will need the above-mentioned screws with a more authentic.

Due to the edges of the wall, they should not hang around. Insert screws in the previously harvested holes. And do not blame them until you stop until you check their perfect evenness. For this, we have previously stored the level.

Only after thorough checks, drive the screws completely.

Step first - starting strip.

Starting band need to take P-shaped. It should be applied by "clouds" on the outer edge of the window. Make sure that the stripes are sharpening. If there are irregularities on the cut, they are cleaned by a knife harvested earlier. Also, do not damage the groove on the profile, it is later that our slightly will be robbed.

Step second - F-shaped profile.

This profile is mounted strictly against the groove of the starting strip. Rather, the grooves of this profile. All that goes beyond the window we do not need, and we remove it with a knife.

Working with the profile, first leave the ends at the top. Only sending the correctness of the docking, the remains can be deleted. To do this, use scissors for metal.

Fastening to a wooden rail is carried out by the stapler. Put the most convenient on the end of the profile, which is stronger approaching the wood.

Step Three - plastic panels.

Even writing to start with the fact that you need to first remove the measurements, and checking the measurements once again, proceed to cutting the slope. This plastic will need to be driven into the grooves of our profiles.

If you decide to further insulate the slopes, it also needs to be operated at this stage. Should say that the quality of laying insulation also needs to be monitored.

After putting the panel, minor gaps on the joints may occur if they were not extinct accurate to a millimeter. You should not worry about - use the silicone sealant.

The fourth step is sealing seams.

It will not be superfluous in this assembly process liquid plastic. Basically, preference is given by the "Cosmofen" option. They need to handle all the seams and joints for complete tightness. Remove its unwanted splashes and drops from the surface right away. After the installation is completed, clean all surfaces.

Step Fifth - For those who put a sandwich panel

Sandwich type panels are mounted slightly differently. The starting profile is installed, as in the first version, but the already extreme and cut panels are created in it. And the free side is screwed in self-drawing directly to the rake from the tree. Do it need diagonally.

Only then the F-shaped profile is put, and the seams and joints are sealed. You can also do without starting profile. In this case, the sandwich panel is placed directly on the foam. To do this, make a slight deepening throughout the perimeter.

This is all differences from the instruction above.

But it will not be superfluous to leave some more tips:

  • Always put the top slope first,
  • Do not overdo it with the number of mounting foam, which swells and can deform plastic,
  • Only quality, no savings,
  • Do not remove the film existing on the window until you do
  • Do not "disturb" slopes at least 12-16 hours so that everything dries and frozen,
  • After examining the whole process, and understood it - proceed to the installation.

It is worth knowing, installing plastic slopes on your own

If you decide to put, or already, the next point will be slopes. The slope of the window is, in fact, the walls of the window niche. A window sill is installed on the bottom of them, and three others are slopes. These are the so-called internal, and there are still outdoor, which are installed from the street.

About independent installation of internal slopes will be discussed below.

It is mistaken to assume that the window inserted "into the bare wall" perfectly isolates warmth and sounds. So it will be exactly until the unprotected mounting foam is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet and rain. That this does not happen, and put slopes.

If such an element is made using high-quality material, and in compliance with the desired mechanism of action:

  • Sleep will protect the mounting seams,
  • Will strengthen sound insulation
  • Reduce heat loss,
  • Warning fogging.

For example, if there are no slopes, or they are not mounted qualitatively, the room will lose up to 40 percent of heat.

How does the installation from the selected material depends

Stucco for slopes.

It can be said that this is an old finish method. The plaster is cheap, and it is not very difficult to apply. But it has too many negative qualities.

It cracks, crept, rather quickly changes the color. With sufficiently strong physical effects, such as the sedimentation of the wall, it can fall off at all.

The deadline for declining the plaster is calculated by weeks. The reason for the need of material to dry. So, as plastering in several layers, sometimes with a grid between them, you need to wait until each layer is completely dry. Further immersing and paint.

Does not protect the plaster from heat loss and condensation of drops on the windows. And without the right skills there is a risk to make the surface of the curve.

Plasterboard for slopes.

Plasterboard is gaining more points compared to plaster. He will last longer, and it is stronger. And if you add material mineral wool for insulation, there will be a good conservation of heat.

But the larger minus material is enemy water relationship. For external works, it suits categorically. And in the premises should not be high humidity.

Not in favor of drywall, the need for additional processing of primer and paint says. And the manufacture and installation also takes a lot of time, and require skills.

Plastic for slopes.

While the most popular and widespread material for this need. It is resistant to external influences, even acids, simply in assembly and care. The term of operation is calculated by decades.

By installing plastic slopes to the plastic window, you will create a visually attractive design. Color can be chosen exactly.

Complete with mineral wool, insulation indicators from moisture and thermal insulation are very high. As well as protection against heat loss.

You can install plastic slopes with your own hands. But the level of all of the above advantages directly depends on the quality of installation.

The main thing is not to miss anything at the preparation stage.

To cope with the installation of the discovery from the plastic panel, are necessary:

  • Panel at least 8 mm thick,
  • Start strip (P-shaped),
  • F-shaped profile
  • Wood rails are not thinner than 1-1.5 cm.
  • Level,
  • Stapler
  • Drill and screws (95 mm, and bugs-45),
  • Insulation
  • Scissors for metal and mounting knife,
  • Silicone Caller (White).

Do not remove the adhesive tape from the window and the windowsill, if there are no, swipe the frames to protect them from scratches.

1 - Install the rails.

Rakes are installed around all the slopes so that they do not speak to the sides, but were exactly with the wall.

To fix the rail, use long screws and drill. Once again, recheck (level) is exactly the railway. From the quality of its installation will depend on whether the entire design will be in place.

Minor errors can be corrected by small pars and a tree. The vertical will help equalize the level.

So we make the framework frame. The tree is used because plastic itself is quite flexible.

2 - Fasteners of the starting strip.

The junction of the window and walls in the window niche "fade" by the starting strip window. Freshing her "from the inside" clouds. Watch the strip tightly adjacent. You can put the mark, reading the horizontal at the top, and two verticals on the sides.

Do not damage the gate of the strip, because it will include a plastic slope end.

3 - We are engaged in an F-shaped profile

Determine how long the profile is needed. But before you cut it add a good pair of centimeters for the allen.

Install the profile, leaving the nest, and later remove the superior with the scissors for metal. Installation is carried out by the stapler. F-sample is attached to the rake from the tree to the side that closer. In that chute, which is closer to the middle of the window, plastic will be inserted, and the clearance is filled with insulation.

4 - insulation and plastic panels themselves

Starting from the top, insert (measured and sliced \u200b\u200bin size) the panel first in the starting profile. Without pressing plastic, put the insulation, carefully distributed it, and only then get the free end of the panel in the chute F-samples.

Do the same from two sides. And remember, the "issue price" here in millimeters. Make measurements very precisely, better leave a little more if you doubt. Using the mounting knife you can cut extra.

Due to the considerable tightness of the structure, the external negative impact will not be the wall itself.

If somewhere there were minor gaps or errors, use Silicon. Naturally, take white, for white plastic. They make all the shortcomings.

This is completed on this. It remains only to clean all the surfaces, and rejuvenate protective films from the window.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

I bring to your attention a learning article on how to make slopes on plastic windows from the inside with your own hands. There are several ways of such a finish and in each of them there are both positive and negative qualities. In addition, in most cases, preparatory work is needed, especially if the windows are only installed.

What materials and tools are needed in this case

Knauf polymer putty

Of course, the most important material for windows is a shplanke, but it can be different:

  • mineral - cement or gypsum;
  • polymer - latex or acrylic.

In addition, they can be in different state:

  • powder - cement and gypsum;
  • pasty - latex and acrylic.

Latex and gypsum replacement is designed exclusively for internal works, and this is just needed on the window slopes. But the cement and acrylic mixture are universal - they are used not only inside, but also outside. The best, perhaps the acrylic mixture is ready for use and it remains only to mix in the packaging container - in the bucket, but the price there, unfortunately, is the highest

In addition to the putty, you will need:

  • primer;
  • plaster grid;
  • light profiles;
  • plasterboard (possibly):
  • cement-sand solution (possibly);
  • ordinary brick, if the slopes were very smashed when the window is installed;
  • mounting foam;
  • plastic panels with guide profiles and small (9-11 mm) self-pressing (they are also called seeds or flea);
  • self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening drywall and plastic panels;
  • plelfix glue if the slopes are plasterboard.

From the tool will be required:

  • spatula or Malki;
  • master OK;
  • long construction level (at least meter);
  • friece with chisel;
  • mixer (preferably with a low-definite drill, but not necessarily);
  • screwdriver;
  • rubberized bucket for kneading (plastic splits a mixer very quickly);
  • Special chock with sandpaper or diamond grid.

Preparatory work


Fast cleaning of slopes perforator

On the video located above, it is shown how to quickly clean the slopes with a perforator - you, perhaps, agree that this is not so difficult, although the perforator may not be at all. But sometimes this work is performed by a metal spatula or an ax, although it is difficult in physically - hand tired. But, no matter how it was, cleaning must be made in obligatory - on the surface there should be no lime, paint and old loose plaster - everything is removed.

But everything is so simple - sometimes the installers when replacing windows are very strongly broken off and it is already impossible to launch in the usual way. It falls on the place of knocked bricks to put others and plastering cement-sandy solution for beacons to align the plane. In such cases, it is necessary to wait 3-4 weeks so that the solution is trying to be a shnottochnya mixture due to uneven drying of the layer.

The paint is easily knocked down by this tool.

But how to make slopes on plastic windows from the inside, if they are painted with oil paint or enamel? Such LKMs are usually applied on the surface, plastered by cement-sandy solution, and it is impossible to remove the coating with a spatula. Some beat off the paint with an ax with a centimeter, but such a job is more like torture. It is best to wear on a 5-7 centimeter bolt 3-5 pieces of a chain of 9-10 cm each and press them with a nut to the bolt head, then clamp it in the cartridge drill. Under fast and frequent blows, paint flies with ease. Just become the right side of the surface treated and then the pieces will fall down. If you need to become left side, then switch the reverse drill and the blows will be applied from top to bottom.

Installation of corner and plaster beacons

Now the slopes are ground using MacLavitsa, since the malarious roller will not bring the soil in all potholes made when cleaning the planes. To align the slope, you need to install the lighthouse profiles and does not have absolutely no matter whether it will be performed in the apartment or in a private house - symmetry remains in the foreground. For montage of lighthouses, you need a spitcher - they simply stick to it, but it is advisable to start plastering only the next day

How to prepare a mixture

The mixture on the consistency should be like a thick sour cream

The plastering gypsum mixture is prepared in a rubberized bucket, which is specifically designed for such purposes. In the tank, the third part of the water is gaining, so much fall asleep powder and immediately interrupted for 4-5 minutes. If there is no drill with low revs, take the usual, and set the launch buttons to the minimum power, but so that it is enough to scroll through the mixer.

After interrupting the putty for 4-5 minutes, it is left for 1-2 minutes and stirred again. All figures are given in the calculation of a small mixer. If a mixer of large sizes, then time can be reduced by 1-2 minutes. In the case when almost complete bucket of the solution do not have time to work out for 20-25 minutes, the mixture can be considered spoiled, since after this period the crystallization begins. If you reconcile it again, the structural grille will break, the mixture will not dry for a long time, and then it will turn from the surface like frozen lime.

Recommendation. If it happened so that you made a complete bucket of the mixture, it will fly away when the mixer is rotated clockwise. To avoid mess (splashes on the walls and on the pants), switch the reverse drill - when the mixer is rotated to the other side, the vortex flow is spinning inward, and the mixture will not fly away. But in this situation there will have to increase the mixing time for 2-3 minutes.

Start and Finish Splatle


Training video for beginners

How to make a solution, it was described above, but someone can seal the desire to use a paste-like acrylic or latex mix - if a person has enough money, it is very good. But I will still tell you how to work with starting and finish gypsum mixtures.

After cooking, the lighthouses pass this solution and here it is desirable to work with a large spatula or low, so that their lengths are enough to the width of the slope - this is especially important for beginners. On the blade of a large tool (40 cm), a solution is caused by 10-centimeters over the entire length and impose it to the surface, tightened upwards. Then a small tool is removed from the blade of the large remaining solution, adding also applied to the wall - they do it until the finish is disabled without pamph and scratches. For wallpaper, only the starting layer is enough, which is much more rational, since there are small pores and wallpapers will be better to stay.

Stuccoing window slopes

You can start the finish layer on the next day when the start hardens (completely drying it is optional). When plastering under painting, then use the finishing putty - there is a very fine powder and the surface is obtained smooth as a mirror. For the finish line, a 1.5-2 mm layer is enough, if of course started successfully. I would like to warn, such a putty is consumed much less, so if you do not hoping for your finishing speed, make it somehow from a quarter of a bucket of water and a quarter of a bucket of powder.

Note. During operation, you need to constantly monitor the angle of slope, as the shplanke will fall on the wall during shuttering. It is simply removed by the spatula.

Special grinding

When plaster works spend independently for the first time or simply very little practical experience, an ideal smooth lined surface will not work. It means that it will need to be inhaled using a special grater with clamps, sandpaper with an average grain or diamond grid. To select emery paper, you need to know its marking, and this according to GOST 3647-80 can be from 4 to 80 with the letter h through a hyphen and the greater the number, the larger the grain. In our case, it is 20-H, 16-H, 12-h. In Europe, labeling and corresponds to modern GOST 52381-05, where, in accordance with ISO 6344 standards, the letter P is standing, and after it is from 24 to 600, only here a decrease in the number indicates an increase in grain. For grinding use P60, P80, P100 and P120. The same marking of ISO 6344 is used for diamond grids.

Note. There are electrical grinding machines for such purposes where the same paper or the same grid is inserted. But for the sake of the slopes, it does not make sense.

Such a cell in a diamond mesh P100

But grinding grinding, and when can I do not spoil all the work? Only when the plaster finally dries, and it is easy to determine this in the presence or absence of dark spots. They point to the locations of the moisture accumulation and if they pass on them sandpaper or diamond mesh, then scratches will remain on the surface. After that, to achieve a smooth surface will not work - you will have to shit again.

Ducks from drywall


Ducks from drywall on uneven walls

First of all, you should find out what kind of need in a specific case:

  • GLC is a plasterboard sheet (may be wall or ceiling);
  • G Clac - moisture resistant (may be wall or ceiling);
  • GKLO - fire-resistant;
  • Glevo - moisture-resistant fire-resistant.

The thickness of the ceiling leaf has 9.5 mm, a wall is 12.5 mm, 15 mm, the thickness of the G Clac is the same, but GKLO and GKLVo are only 12.5 mm and 15 mm. In the case of windows, it may be necessary either a GLC, or an HCCV width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. If it is a balcony unit, then the perimeter sheet can be 4000 × 1200 mm.

The chopped sheets are usually installed on the glue PERLFIX, but before the installation it is necessary to make sure that the walls near the slopes are smooth vertically and the sliced \u200b\u200bstrips will be lured with corners. If such a problem is still detected, then first it will be necessary to level the angles of the starting plaque or cement mortar (it all depends on the value of the difference). But if all the same happened (alignment), it will have to wait for the corners to dry up not to knock them down. Also, the surface of the slope must be clean - there is no place to paint, lime and falling off the plaster - all this will reduce adhesion with glue.

Principle of assembly of plasterboard slope

Initially, the surface must be primed, this will allow you to remove the remaining dust and increase the adhesion. If a concrete beam is located above the window, then the usual building primers will not help - you need to use Betokontakt or concrete contact. These drugs will make concrete rough, and Perlfix is \u200b\u200bgood to him to him, but if you wish, you can fix the upper strip with dowels with screws. Check if there is no condensate in the corners, it can appear there in the cold season. If it is discovered, the location of the frame of the frame to the window turnout is better to insulate the mineral basalt wool or foam, which should be placed on the mounting foam and fix the umbrella dowels. The wool when drilling will be sweeping on the drill, so that this does not occur, you should insert a metal or plastic tube in your cotton, which will be 5-10 mm in diameter than the drill.

In the window, the window is installed a plaster light for the stop and at the same time its height should be such that the edge of the sheet overlap the window profile shake with the wall. The lighthouse is attached either on glue (preferably Ceresit), or on a self-tapping screw with dowels. The leaf is imposed by a perllikax pointing method, where the distance between the points of points is no more than 7-10 cm, but some masters prefer to smear the glue with a wall, and the band from GLC is just priming. It is better to start with the upper slope - the adjoining is much more convenient to do on the sides, as it does not have to do on weight with hands raised up.

During the workflow, the level is used all the time by checking the faithfulness of the vertical and the smoother adjuncing the plasterboard stripes so that there are no depression or humps on the plane. The front edge of the GLC will not prevent the plastic corner to stick - it is a good edge protection. Subsequently, it will not be seen anyway, since it will be necessary for painting it will be sought for the finish shtakula. This is done in the same way as on the starting putty, but on the drywall the thickness of the layer can be reduced to 1-1.5 mm (you can even up to 0.5 mm, but it may not close the plastic corner). It is embarked only when the glue under the sheets dry, but this happens quite quickly - in a week it will become a monolith.


Another way to make plasterboard slopes

Note. There are other methods for mounting plasterboard slopes. For example, it is possible to trim the drywall strip by 3-4 cm in the form of a cone and glue to it by mounting foam. However, the process can be viewed on the video, which is above.

Plastic slopes


The process of working with plastic slopes

Here, too, assembly works begin with cleaning old slopes - from there remove the former plaster with paint or lime. Also it will not hurt to primitive the liberated sidewalls so that later there was good adhesion with the mounting foam. While the primer will dry, you can cut off the plastic guide profiles along the length and fasten them around the perimeter of the window frame with small screws (fleels) - step 250-300 mm. It is not even necessary to use the level here, since they are always smooth and horizontally, and vertically, and they set them strictly by level.

After that, you need to insert the panels of plastic into the guides and brake on the upper two corners with self-draws - it is enough to screw everything down one unlocking down the panels to keep the panels from the inside on the profiles, and outside the self-drawers. But the panels will not be so simple to the profiles - too dense adjoining, so you can use the spatula in the same way as using a shoe spoon. The next step will be the strengthening of the newly lowered by mounting foam, but there is a danger that the foam will be deposited.

In order not to use a dowel and self-tapping screw for fixing, the mounting foam is blown away at a distance of 30-35 cm and pressed the panel. Now the inflating will not happen, and when the foam is dry (for this, one hour is enough), then you can continue the complete swelling - the slope will hold. It happens that the gap between plastic and the wall is too large, and this suggests that the point blowing will not hold back - will fall. To get out of such a problem situation, you can use a piece of rail, substituting it from below to each point until the foam fill the space.

The next day, dried foam can be trimmed and attached these places or proceed to further repair the room. In the same way, it will be possible to close the outer slopes - plastic looks great, and even in addition, it perfectly transfers the air temperature and atmospheric precipitates.

Conclusion

You learned how to make slopes on plastic windows from the inside in a private house or in the apartment - principles do not change. In this case, methods of working with three materials are provided: plaque, plasterboard and plastic panels. Well, what is better for you - to solve you yourself.