Repairs Design Furniture

What to put a bath. How to install a bath with your own hands: the sequence and subtlety of the work. Installation of acrylic baths

1. Bath - an important part of any apartment. In the bathroom, each resident of the apartment conducts a tangible part of its room.

However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom to a new one. And then they will come to help those knowledge,
Which we set out below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bath. As a rule, it is associated with certain difficulties, since
Old tie bolts, most likely rusted and twist them with a key simply impossible - the key erases the bolt cap limiters, but the bolt is so
And it does not scroll - in this case it will have to cut with a grinder. Also, most likely we will face difficulties associated with dismantling drain and
overflow grilles. Previously, they were made from brass - soft material, when dismantling such a lattice can simply break, and then he will have
Dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is: With the help of a handhelter, drink the lattice segments, placing the canvas perpendicular
inner ring.

Cut the drain hole with hacksaw or grinder Smash the drain grille with the help of hammer and chisel

Duties do from the inside and bend segments inside the funnel. Also we do with the feed part of the ring under the bath.
Now you can easily pull the drain grille through the bathroom hole. In the same way, dismantle the overflow grille, if it does not work out in the usual way.
When grilles are removed, dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If the drain pipe is inserted into the sewage system with the help of cement, carefully divide the cement, then remove the pipe.
The hole of the sewer pipe, it is necessary to close the plug (it can be a piece of wood, fitted under the diameter of the pipe, or just a gag of pieces of vet).

Remove siphon and plums from under the bath Release the walls of the bath

Now is the time to dismantle the bath and free the room. For this break the tile, fixing the edges of the bathroom, and remove it from the base.
The bath is removed vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is released, proceed to the installation of a new bath.

2. In this article we consider bath installation with your own hands , without electrical components. If you are planning to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of baths, in order to choose the most appropriate. Traditionally, the baths are cast iron, steel and acrylic.

Free standing cast iron bath on legs

Cast iron bath Long keeps warm, it is not a road, however, such a bath is very hard. Cast iron bath on average weighs about 100 kg, which makes it quite
The nontrivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bath - made of modern material - acrylic. Acrylic plastic bath is reinforced to avoid deflection. She is about
Light, but more road than cast iron.
Steel bath - Also easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback - water in it quickly cools.

Common bath in the bathroom interior

In addition, there is a bath from a variety of other materials - stone, copper and even a tree.
Also, the baths differ from each other in shape. The most common is a bath of rectangular shape. However, there are round-in-law baths -
which make additional aesthetics in the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows overboard,
Therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathroom and the walls, in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.

The circular bath installed in the frame in the interior of the bathroom

In addition, it is desirable to use special curtains whose edges are descended into the bath on each side.
Before installing the bath, you should ensure the perfect flatness of the surface on which the bath is mounted. If necessary, the screed is applied or
Special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine the replacement of the bathroom repair. In this case, the floor is stacked with tiles.
After that, it is necessary to give the surface as you can dry (at least 2-3 hours) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step - we labeled the tile on the walls. We recommend to lay the tile completely on the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite clear the desire to save, skipping the place under the bathroom, not prominent to the eye, but in this case, with the next bath install, you will have to
Also change the tile.
When Installation of steel bathFirst, the bath is installed, and then the tile is stacked.
To the bathroom room, the bath is closed vertically, the threshold of the rooms is paired with something soft. The bath is located in 70-80 cm.

Device System Plug System for Bath

from the installation site, the drain hole towards the cranes, and then the plum system is mounted.
Often, the draining works on the principle of the drain - overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. Funnel is installed in a drain hole
Baths (before that, we recommend on the inner side of the rings of the funnel to apply a sealant), on the reverse side it is put on a sealing rubber ring
and clamping (usually plastic or metal) ring.


The system is then fixed by the clamping screw - while watched, so that the sealing ring would not be twisted.

Then they brought the tee for the external thread of the funnel, so that the side discharges looked at the nearest wall. When installing a tee, not
We forget to seal it with sealing and clamping rings.

Video: installation of bathroom with your own hands

In a similar way, we mount the overflow grid, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, the upper part is cut off
Tubes. When the drain system is ready, install the fittings (legs) of the bath, and mount the bath on them. Montage technology is as follows:

the first support is installed, the bath is neatly stacked, then the opposite edge of the bath is raised, and the second supports are put under it.
Then connect the drain system with sewage. After that, we move the bath to the wall, and with the level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bath,
We achieve the horizontal location of the bath. Then check the tightness of the system.
It is done in two stages: the first water in the bath in the bath and descend it, if there are no leaks, fill the bath with water and close the cork. If in this
There is no case case, the bath is installed correctly, you can start the installation of the mixer.

Installing the mixer in the bathroom

Repair in the bathroom is always associated with large financial costs that seriously undermine the family budget. The high cost of the decoration is explained by the complex microclimate of this room, requiring the use of special expensive materials, as well as the high complexity of installation work for plumbing equipment.

When money and strength are suitable for the end, wanting to save, many homeowners are asked the pire, how to install the bath with their own hands. In this article we will tell you how to properly prepare the bathroom to install and independently install the washing container.

Requirements for the room

To start the installation of plumbing equipment, you need to carefully prepare the room to work. The quality of the preparatory work depends on the correct installation and operation of the bath. By the time of delivery of a new tank for washing, the bathroom should be in the following condition:


Note! In the process of repairing the bathroom, it is important to comply with the correct order of performing technological operations. Installation is performed exclusively on the aligned and lined floor. But the walls of the walls need to be engaged only after connecting the plumbing equipment so that the minimum clearance remains between the wall and the container for washing.

Installation methods

Installation of the bath with your own hands is a responsible process of exhibiting on the necessary height and connecting tanks for washing to the sewer and plumbing system. Installation can be performed in different ways, depending on the size, shape and weight of the equipment. Experienced masters recommend using the following ways:


Note that the correctly selected method of installing the bath extends the service life of the product, provides comfort and safety when it is used. In addition, performing installation, you can improve the performance of the model, reducing the noise and thermal conductivity of the walls with the insulating material.

Installation sequence

The installation process of the bath consists of several stages: the accommodation of the instrument to the room, connecting to the sewage system, fixing the legs, the deposits of the building level, as well as compounds with the plumbing system. The complexity of the problem is the large weight of the washing tank, so performing the installation alone is quite difficult. Install the bath in the following order:


Important! The optimal height of the side of the bath, recommended by SNiP, is 60-65 cm, since the installation of tank for washing at this level causes less injury and inconvenience. And the minimum distance from the floor to the bottom of the bowl is sufficient to connect the siphon with overflow - 10-15 cm.

Check and seal joint

Installation of the bath with your own hands ends with checking the system functioning. For this, they include the flow of water, open the cranes and are observed for the work of the drain. All connections should be sealed, and water should quickly fall into the drain, self-leaving the tank. If everything works, then before using the device, it remains only to seal the mix between the bathroom and the wall. This is done as follows:


When installing steel models, you can handle the bottom or walls from the outer side by the mounting foam or can be caught with vibroimol to reduce the resonant ability, thermal conductivity of the material.

Video instruction

The installation of the bath with your own hands is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and skills. The bath is a large-sized object that needs a gentle handling: to spoil the enamel is simpler, but it is almost impossible to restore it. About the intricacies of this process and will be discussed in the article.

Select model

If a complete bath replacement is assumed, you must immediately decide on the choice. Only a competent approach will help you buy a plumbing device that will fully comply with the requests of all residents of the apartment. Among the options presented in the market, you can allocate the most popular products:

  • Steel- They differ available to the cost and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option lies in the fact that in the presence of certain skills, one person can install such a bath. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product is extremely spoiled, so there can be a lot of durability. Steel bath is an ideal solution for small rooms, where you need to install a plumbing device as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from the deformations and the need to replace in the future.
  • Cast iron - Different with a long service life and do not require a special relationship. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of the installation, which is caused by considerable weight. It is impossible to install the bath on the ready-made siphon, so you have to fix it to it in advance that in the cramped conditions of a small space hard enough.
  • Plastic - They became very popular recently and boast their environmental safety, durability and attractive appearance. Acrylic baths are more expensive than steel, but they are cheaper cast-iron.

Working with such a plumbing device should be very neat, as it is easy to damage the surface. For other characteristics, the acrylic version is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.

Deciding with the material suitable for manufacture, you can proceed to the selection of the product size. In the process of the selection, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. The most suitable height of plumbers can be determined by the average growth of family members. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the presence of children in the apartment. For adults optimal is considered height of 60-70 cm. If there are children, it is better to choose smaller products.

Each type of bath has its own distinctive features on dimensions:

  • Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and Eurostandard (140x70 cm).
  • The length of the steel bath bowl is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes it is possible to find products from steel type "Economy" on the market. The length of such a model is 120 cm, which makes it an excellent option for a small room.
  • Acrylic baths are very different, so there is a lot of opportunities when choosing a lot. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall product configuration.

The bath can be featured or angular. A distinctive feature of the willed products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, the corners are installed at the corners.

Wailed baths are of a variety of forms. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. As for angular baths, they usually meet with proper geometry, less often - in asymmetric forms.

When choosing a bath for an urban apartment, it is necessary to take into account the available area of \u200b\u200bthe room, as well as the minimum set of installed furniture.

Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of plumbing equipment:

  • Cast iron baths on the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
  • Among the steel options, the products of domestic companies use in great demand, and among foreign countries, the Spanish trademark Roca and Portuguese products can be distinguished BLB..
  • Acrylic baths are presented in the greatest diversity. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most famous manufacturers, you can allocate the Czech company Ravak Polish Cersanit and Kolo., Spanish Pool Spa.

  • Currently, the conservative baths are produced only by one company - the German brand Villeroy & Boch.. The fact is that this company is both the developer of the technology itself, and the creator of the material, so the right to produce products belongs only to it. For this reason, you do not need to believe if you are trying to sell a coniferous product from another manufacturer.

Bathroom preparation

Before installing this plumbing product, it is necessary to train the entire room, which will allow competent installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bath is carried out simultaneously with the repair indoor, then the facing should be carried out after installation. If the repair work is not conducted, the new plumbing device must be at least a few centimeters above the old one. Only in this case can be achieved an attractive appearance, and also make sure that there will be no lumen.

Special attention should be paid to the floor, which should be perfectly even and reliable, without plinths, able to withstand the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bath weighs quite a lot, so the base under it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile is able to withstand such a load. An ideal option is considered if the tile laid on a solid cement, it ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimum emptiness under the tile, then it will crack from such pressure.

If it is not possible to carry out repair work on the floor covering, you can simply put two durable plates from larch, which will reduce pressure on the floor and tile.

However, the tree must be prepared with the help of fungicides, since the bathroom is a sufficiently wet room, so all materials should be protected from rotting. With the help of a board pillow, you can not only get rid of problems with the load on floor covering, but also solve issues related to the body height.

Installation of different types of baths

In the modern market, a large number of baths are distinguished, which differ from each other with their characteristics, cost, appearance, operational properties and installation features. In order for the mounted plumbing device to live as long as possible and fully performed the functions assigned to it, it is necessary to take into account its type when installed.

Acrylic

Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach all the guides for the legs to it, which will be set across - on special self-draws. Included with each acrylic bath, there is a special instruction, where it is explained how the fasteners are marked. The lunas should be placed perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, noting all the necessary places with a pencil. The depth of drilling does not exceed 25% of the length of the self-press.

Installing drain reinforcement is necessary, overgrowing the bath side. So that everything goes as successful as possible, you need to follow the following recommendations:

  • each gasket before installation should be lubricated by silicone;
  • installation of the gasket occurs from the outside;
  • it is better to choose a conical gasket that is installed by pin to the hose so that it does not damage it during the tightening process;
  • threaded connections must be delayed tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they can burst.

photos

When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing device and set the legs. It should be noted that it will not be possible to cope with the installation of such a product, so you will need a partner. A more experienced person should be from the plum to constantly control its location and installation.

Acrylic bath must most closely move to the wall, which will ensure more convenient use and will not allow damage to the product. When the model is installed in its place, alignment and sealing against the flow should be carried out. First we use sealant, the rest of the work only after it dry.

After the sealant is frozen, it is necessary to check the presence of leakage, because after the end of the work it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then with silicone, it is also necessary to sew the slots between the sides of the bath and the wall.

Metal

Installation of the steel bath is carried out in the same way as acrylic. The only exception is to mount the legs that should be inserted into fasteners and fix with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix so hard as possible, having cursed them with a rubber hammer. The legs should not be fused, otherwise the steel bath can damage them.

Most Plumbers advise to install the surface of rubber slices with a bowl of a plumbing product, thanks to which it will be largely reduced by ringing when filling the bath with water.

It is more difficult to install a cast iron bath, which is extremely high, so it is very difficult to move it and is dangerous for the repair of the room itself. If the size of the room allows you to transfer the product to the bathroom and install it there. First - drain and legs, then alignment is carried out.

If the cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, it largely complicates the installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather time-consuming and responsible process with which only an experienced and professional master can cope with. It will not work under the legs under the legs, as this fully destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and the feeding is extremely hard, because accurate measurements are needed.

Moreover, every time you need to turn the bath, move it or move the message, which is extremely difficult, given its considerable weight. For this reason, for the installation of a cast-iron bath, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary alignment of the floor surface (with the help of materials that differ in high strength).

Jacuzzi

Hydromassage baths are quite interesting and useful products to improve the health of people. The connection of water with air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. For the first time, the jacuzzi appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. For a long time, the jacuzzi could afford only very secured people.

Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are distinguished by the available price. The era of high technologies in the modern market shows a plurality of hydromassage baths, which are distinguished by small dimensions, a wide selection of functions and an attractive appearance.

Technology for installing such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so the installation is better to entrust the experienced specialist.

Before starting the installation, you should prepare all the schemes and recommendations of the manufacturer, as well as to accurately designate the places where the sewage grip will occur, install the electrical wiring, and ensure water supply. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model should occur with a clear observance of fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to sad consequences. Special attention should be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in the electrical system of the apartment or at home.

When installing the jacuzzi, it should also be considered the fact that sockets, switches and other devices should be located at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, this can lead to oxidation (as a result of high humidity). This may cause fire.

Complete with any hot tub are special legs that allow you to secure the model in the required position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install a jacuzzi on the legs, then when working it will vibrate, which will not allow the proper effect of its operation.

Setting the legs should be carried out as neat as possible, using a construction level, which will allow achieving accuracy. After the alignment of the jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through the stroke.

Built-in option

Mount the embedded bath in the floor will not work without a pit. Moreover, the usual dug apart can not do here. It will also be necessary to make concreting walls and gender, having ensured the space necessary for installation and maintenance of the plumbing device. During the installation of the built-in bath, specific nuances should be taken into account:

  • The contours of the pit should coincide with the contours of the bath and overlap it with sides. In other words, the bath should be kept thanks to the sides.
  • The depth should be such that the plumbing product is raised above the base by 50 mm and less.
  • Access to the pit should be provided so that you can easily connect and install the bath. All water supply and sewage communications are displayed here. The ideal solution will be hiding all pipes in an invisible hatch.

Order of work

To understand the general principles of the bath installation, one should consider the sequence of work, which will be unchanged for any models, including acrylic and cast-iron options. Of course, each view has its own distinctive features, there are also certain subtleties of the installation, however, you first need to find out the general principles and installation rules.

So, the installation of the bath includes the following steps:

  • Assembly and installation of drain siphon. Most models presented in the market are collected due to cape nuts and rubber seals. Newbies often make a mistake, conducting sealing of joints, which in the future it becomes the cause of the product breakage. You should use the assembly scheme.
  • Installation of the bath on the supports.Here you should also be extremely attentive. Constructions of support elements for the bath is quite a lot. You can meet both complex and simple options. Some masters prefer to use foam blocks or bricks, and not factory legs. Steel options look much better when installing in this way.
  • Warming and noise insulation.This stage applies to all types of baths, besides cast-iron, which are so well heated and still maintain heat for a long time. In addition, they do not produce too much noise when filling. Heat and noise insulation should be carried out using a mounting foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also on the side sides of the plumbing product. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.

  • Installation.For ease of use, any bath must be set relative to the horizon level. In the installation process, there is no need to lay down the slopes, since the current moment is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing a bath. Support legs are equipped with screws for adjustment.
  • Fastening.This stage also concerns steel and acrylic baths, since the eigenous mass of the cast iron is enough to not be fed under pressure from water and man. Mounting is necessary with metal hooks, which are usually used to install boilers. In addition, you can use the special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathroom. Such a fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during the operation of the plumbing product.
  • Sealing joints.This stage is the last. Such work can be performed in several ways. In most cases, it will be appropriate to the use of a white corner, but you can do the border self-adhesive ribbon. If the gap between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, it can be limited to one cylinder of sanitary silicone.

In the event that an angular bath will be installed, you need to pay attention to a number of features. Such products are rounded or oval form, and they should be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.

Important nuances

In the process of installing the bath, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully fulfill the functions assigned to it and listen as long as possible. Pay attention to such moments:

  • the legs are mounted in such a way that the siphon output element (blockage) is installed without problems in the sewer pipe;
  • the bath is mandatory installed with a slope;
  • be sure to consider the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.

Behind the tightness of the connecting places, the bath and sewage must be monitored. When going to start using a plumbing device, 10 liters of cold and hot water should be pouring into a bath.

If a bath with hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the supply of additional communication.

During installation, the bath should also take into account the main problems associated with the material from which the product is manufactured. Acrylic options are characterized by the following disadvantages.

  • When setting hot water, the walls of the plumbing product begin to "play". This is due to the fact that the heated acrylic walls are deprived of their initial stiffness.
  • The legs are another weak side of acrylic plumbing. Standard legs cannot boast of impressive stability. Even if you put everything on the perfect level, you still will not be able to save the situation.
  • The bottom of such a bath feels great at low loads, but it can greatly fade due to significant weight.
  • When the dialing of water occurs a drum effect caused by the subtlety of the walls of the acrylic bath. This disadvantage is noticed in any baths, but Acrylic has brighter than everything.

Cast iron and steel baths can boast good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard are left to desire the best. The heated water quickly warms the wall, but also quickly and winds them. You can solve this problem using conventional cylinders with mounting foam. In addition, this method allows to solve the problem associated with bath noise insulation.

Switching is as follows:

  • the bath turns over the bottom, and the cardboard or other protective material is put under it (this inset is needed so that the acrylic surface can be scratched);
  • the surface is cleared of dust and contamination;
  • foam is applied, and remnants are removed from the surface.

It is much more economical and more comfortable to use a pistol for foam, however, if it is absent, you can limit the simple cylinder.

To ensure the durability and efficiency of the whole design, it should be competently choose the material of the drain reinforcement.

Most products presented in the market are made of polyvinyl chloride or propylene, which are distinguished by reliability, attractive appearance and durability. The last material is much more expensive, however, the walls are smoother, which largely reduces the likelihood of blocking of blockages.

From the idea to purchase cheap models of drain fittings should be immediately refused. The fact is that budget models are intimidrate, so they are unsuitable for repair. Already after a couple of months of operation, the rust is so much grabbing the bolt that it is impossible to unscrew it.

Do not buy a hard tube. An excellent solution will be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to mounted and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can confident that the bathroom will not fill with water.

Dismantling

If the battery life is released, the siphons rusted or became unsuitable for use, it is better to replace the old bowl for a new one.

Initially, it seems that it simply simply does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to remove the bath to correctly, so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. It is necessary to act as follows:

  • Make sure the legs of the bath are securely fixedSince while dismantling a plumbing product may fall and damage the fingers of a person. This may well happen if one of the legs rotten or deformed. For fixing supports, special wedges should be used to be fixed properly.
  • Now you can proceed to disconnect the siphon and plots. A drain design is usually disassembled quite easily, but there are cases when it is made of the same material as the bath. As a result of long-term operation, the details can be closed to each other, so it will be possible to dismantle only with the help of a grinder.
  • On the perimeter, the bath is fixed through a cement-sandy solution. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or perforator. The frozen solution needs to be repeated as careful as possible not to damage the tile.
  • When the bath will disappear from the wall, it will be possible to start the next stage of dismantling. The bath is moving away from the wall by mounting, which is used as a lever.

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the structure. Do not forget that it largely exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast-iron bath if it is necessary to preserve its integrity and an attractive appearance. This type of plumbing is distinguished by large sizes and considerable weight, so dismantling will not work independently. During the years of use, the bath is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering, which is extremely difficult to remove it.

Cast iron baths can serve for a very long time, thanks to which they are in great demand. Starting dismantling work, determine whether it is possible to restore the protective coating or not. There are many ways to largely extend the life of the bath, one of the most effective and recently incentive is the use of acrylic liner. The complexity of the implementation of restoration works depends on a number of factors, among which - the weight and size of the model.

The above instruction is designed to dismantle the product with a minimum deterioration of the view of the room itself. It is implied only to the replacement of sanitary equipment.

If you decide to overhaul the bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing devices), then you can not worry about the integrity of the product.

Disassembly without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of action is very simple. The only thing that will be needed to pay attention is the safety technique, because with the wrong approach you can damage legs or hands.

To remove the bath, you need to carry out the following work:

  • First, turn off the siphon from the sanitary device itself. You can do this with the help of an ordinary grinder.
  • Using the perforator, you need to disconnect the bath from the wall.
  • Since the bath in the future will not be used, you can cut it into several parts. It will not only simplify the dismantling process, but will allow you to make it out without any problems.
  • You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good impact is enough to ensure that the product is divided into several parts. Effectively disassemble the bath into several fragments will turn out and thanks to the gas cutting.
  • If dismantling is performed by one person, the bath should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are characterized by considerable weight, so each piece will be pretty heavy.

Getting Started, first of all pay attention to the material from which the plumbing product is made. This will help you choose the most suitable way to dismantle.

So, it can be noted that the installation of the bath is a complex and responsible process requiring a competent approach and attentiveness. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing device, but also professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the process of choice, you should pay attention to the material, sizes and shape of the product, as well as on its manufacturer.

Move steel and plastic plumbing products should be extremely careful, because such a coating may be damaged, deformed. It is easiest to work with a cast-iron bath, which is so heavy and durable that it is almost impossible to break it. However, in this case, incorrect transportation can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as high pressure on the overlap. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath occurs in a small place, where it is extremely difficult to fit two people.

One of the most important conditions for self-installation bathroom is the presence of a skilled assistant, which can support the plumbing product, submit the necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, it is necessary to be attentive and neat, because by chance the fallen bath can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast-iron models can be reanimated somehow, then the spoiled acrylic product is not repaired, so it will have to be replaced.

Installation of the bath is responsible, but a relatively simple event. With a great desire to cope with installation work, you can own forces, refusing the services of third-party specialists and significantly saving money.

In order for the process to go most easily, quickly and interestingly, you need to carefully prepare to it.

In the modern market of plumbing equipment are presented acrylic, steel and cast iron baths.

Capacity from cast iron - time proven option With impressive rates of service and heat saving. The material is resistant to a variety of loads and in general does not cause any complaints.

The only unpleasant moments are high cost of such products, as well as high weight. Due to the essential mass of the bath, its independent installation may be difficult - you will have to attract assistants.

Acrylic baths have many advantages, among which:

  • low weight;
  • almost complete noise when filling with water;
  • many diverse shapes, sizes and configurations;
  • available cost.

Steel baths also weigh and relatively cheap stand, however when filling such a container, a lot of noise is created with water. Yes, and serve products from steel relatively long.

So, if you have a sufficient budget and want to buy maximum durable and reliable productPrefer the cast-iron bath.

If the most priority characteristic is for you non-standard form and configuration, as well as a beautiful and modern appearance, buy a product from acrylic.

In the absence of special requirements for the parameters of the bath and desire to saveBoldly install the steel container. Otherwise, the choice is yours, and the article "" will help you determine faster.

We are determined with the size and form of capacity

The modern market contains baths of a wide variety of forms (oval, circle, rectangle, angular and non-standard designs) and sizes (on average from 1.2 to 2.1 m).

When choosing a configuration and dimensions of the container, focus on your preferences and available space..

Think how the new bath will fit into the interior of the room, whether it will fit at all, whether it will be convenient to use the room after installing such a bath, etc. In general, these moments remain at your discretion..

But exist a number of rules and requirements for various gaps and gaps. So which the height is correctly installed by the bath and what distance should there be between other elements in the room?

  • Before the bathroom you need to leave orders 90 cm Free space, you can more.
  • The size of the space between the toilet and the bathroom should be not less than 75 cm.
  • The distance between the top side of the bath without legs and the floor should be ordage 0.5 M., If the bath on the legs increases to about 64 cm.

Preparation for mounting

Regardless of the selected bath manufacturing material, for its installation you will need the following tools and devices:

  • screwdriver Set;
  • bulgarian small size;
  • chisel;
  • level;
  • a hammer;
  • gas key;
  • cement mortar;
  • insulating tape;
  • mounting foam;
  • drain fittings;
  • corrugation with a diameter of 4 cm, rubber cuffs 4x5 cm in case of connecting to cast-iron pipes, a plum-corrugation by 5 cm when connected to plastic pipes.

Bath installation is best done until the walls are lined with a cafeter - In such a situation, the risk of damage to the finish is significantly reduced.

You need to do the following:

  • overlap the water supply;
  • dismantle the old bath;
  • break (plastic) or cut off (metallic) old plums;
  • clear sewer sockets and insert corrugations into it, after which it is thoroughly wrapped all the joints with a sealing means on silicone basis;
  • align the floor in case of such a need.

Choosing a place to install a new plumbing product, remember: after mounting the bath, there should be access to the pipes, but, at the same time, the container must be easily adjacent to the wall.

In completion, you will have only remove construction garbage.

Step-by-step instructions for acrylic products

Work on the installation of such a product is performed in several simple steps. You only need follow the instructionAnd everything will definitely work out.

Mounting frame / legs

How to install a bath on legs or frame yourself? We do the following:

  1. unpack the support elements;
  2. turn the bath I. we celebrate on its bottom of the place of attachment of the legs. One must be put in the area of \u200b\u200bthe bath head, the second - closer to the drain hole;
  3. by labels drill holes for screws.
  4. The depth of the opening should be not more than 0.6 cm. Be careful not to drill the bath through. For greater amenities, make a tag on the drill with an insulating tape.

  5. screw the mounting brackets to the bath. To do this, use self-tapping screws. We screw the legs of the plumbing product to the installed fixing brackets.

Connecting siphon

We work in the following order:

  1. first perform connecting the upper drain hole, and after - the bottom;
  2. we produce an assembly of a siphon;
  3. we process surfaces with a solvent for careful degreasing, and after the thick layer of the sealing means is applied.

Selecting a siphon should be paid to special attention. The best option is chrome brassy With a semi-automatic opening / closing system of drain cranes.

You can read about installing a cumulative electric water heater.

Connect to sewage

One of the last steps of each above instruction was to connect a bath to sewage. Consider this process more.

Bath connecting kits for sewage are sold in a disassembled form. Work is starting from the assembly of the system.

First, we need to collect individual nodes. To do this, take the hose by means of a connection of overflow and plum, and put on it gaskets.

The gasket is made on the cone. It needs to be equipped fine side towards the ends of the tube.

Then we put on nuts and gaskets on the elements of the draining design and collect its body. To do this, we screw to one side part of the case, and to the other - a drain neck. In the end, you get a hydraulication - ready-made system of tubes.

In order for the compounds of the structural elements as high quality and reliable, the cone-shaped gasket is placed so that one part of it enters into the inner diameter of the second part connected and seal the resulting conjugation under the influence of a plastic nut.

Our next task comes down to connection of the plum body with a drain pipeline. To do this, we insert the pipeline into the plum housing, not forgetting the gasket installation rule, then press the connection with the nut.

Next, proceed to the collection of overflow. To do this, we put the sealing ring, after which we insert the housing of the overflow system from the inside of our new bath. We apply a decorative lining to the front side, and then fix the design with a bolt.

Next to us you need to insert the tube into the overflow housing. We do it from the inside of the bath. Due to the tube will ensure the connection of the suspension body with overflow.

Krepim plum housing to the bath. In front of this insert the gasket into the drain hole of the bath. The gasket is placed the thick side under the bathroom, and thin with its front side.

Apply the plum housing on the insideAfter that we put the drain neck to the drain hole. It must be placed on the front side of the plumbing product.

Attach the plums to the bathroom with a bolt. Carefully tightening the bolt, tighten the rubber sealing gaskets.

We connect the hose from the overflow hole to the drain body and fasten it with plastic nut. Connect the drain hose with the sewer system.

The bath is connected to sewage. We turn on the water and check the tightness of the compounds. If somewhere dripping, carefully pull up nuts.

Plastic nuts are tightened only by hand without using any additional tools.

In completion, it will remain only to complete the finish finish, if you want this or this requires the designer idea.

Finish finish

There are several basic options for finishing bath decoration. You can do the following:

  • bias a bath with a cafe
  • close the space between the top side of the bath and the floor-resistant plasterboard;
  • install ready-made decorative screen.

Choose a way that you like mostand start work.

Regardless of the selected finish finish method, you must leave windows to access the plum and pipesSo that if they break freely fulfill the necessary repair activities. Close up these places tightly is categorically prohibited.

Now you own all the necessary information for self-installing and connecting the bath. Follow the recommendations received, and everything will definitely.

Good job!

There may be a speech about comfortable accommodation in the house. This room is the "face" of every person. An external look is talking about the delivery of the family, the style of the owner and its accuracy. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is a bath, which is directly used to adopt hygienic procedures.

It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bath right, conducting repair work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is possible to install the tank and independently.

So, consider how modern plumbing is attached made of different material.

Actual Ways Installation Bath

Method of installation of the bath directly depends on its location. So how to fix the bath?

  1. Fastening to walls and floor. One of the common installation methods for the corner location of plumbing is. Often also used when installing the bowl in the prepared niche.
  2. Fastening to the floor. In this case, the container is set at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, such mounting methods are distinguished:

  • On adjustable or unregulated legs. The ideal option for fixing pig-iron or steel baths, with which it is often composed of such supports.
  • On brickwork. Universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
  • On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used to install acrylic plumbing.

Consider in more detail the most popular ways to secure the bath.

Features of steel bath

Steel bath - an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores have a wide range of selection of this product. The selection of capacitance parameters directly depend on the area and wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes baths, with a size of 0.75 m per 1.7 m.

Choosing such a plumbing, remember that it is characterized by a lot of weight. It greatly complicates the installation and presents special requirements for the stability and strength of fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. The presence of these supports greatly simplifies the installation. It is necessary to secure supports that often come complete with plumbing. Bath is ready to install.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bath in that case?

Features of mounting steel bath on brickwork

The masonry provides good stiffness compared to the use of regular legs.

  • So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with the unpacking of the tank itself. Correct its parameters with the size of the seating area.
  • Remember to properly, quickly and efficiently install the container, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and sides of the bowl is at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of angular baths.
  • The bowl is installed on previously prepared strut bar. They must be located on the origin of the painting side of the side.
  • Correct the siphon correctly.
  • Using Waterpas (level), check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, align the container by changing the angle of tilt the strut.

  • Brick masonry must be initially lay out under the part of the bath, where the legs of the structure were supposed to be located.
  • The last row of masonry must be output close to the wall of the bath. For this use pieces of bricks.
  • We leave for a few days to dry the masonry. After checking the spacers and stability of the structure.
  • On the perimeter of the brick bath, lay the screen for the very side.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way to fasten the bathroom.

Does the screen need?

You can also set the brick screen with tiles, to the walls.

Remember that the screen will perform not only the decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity of the entire design. Building a side, try to adjust the laying to the lower part of it around the perimeter. This will avoid the skew of the bowl if suddenly the lower backups will not be durable enough.

This method of installation of the bathroom is relevant only for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for the bowl of acrylic.

Fastening the bathroom to the wall and to the floor

Installation of metal design on brickwork is simple enough. But how to fix the bath to the wall and to the floor?

Metal bath must be installed on a regular supporting structure.

It may occur that studs of the support legs slightly less than the previously expected size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container under the height of 60 cm sides, and the bathroom with twisted legs reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem is easy to solve, cutting the required thickness of pieces of tiles. Bathing securely securely allow their glued elements at the location of the legs.

After you need to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install a metal profile according to the markup earlier.

On the wall we are fastened with sealing silicone. To do this, at the top of the profile, retreating 1-2 mm, we apply silicone sealant.

We move to the wall so that its supports stood at a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tiles, you need to install the bath no earlier than a day. After all, silicone must completely polymerize.

With a metal bath, figured out. And how to fix an acrylic bath that uses specially popular today?

Installation of acrylic corner bath on supports

Acrylic baths are attempted at the moment much popular. The main advantage is a small weight. But how to fix an acrylic bath? To the wall or on full-time supports?

Installing the bath from this material on support occurs in such a sequence:

  • The product is removed from the package.
  • It is necessary to seal a bedspread or a carpet to the floor, which will retain the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl turn over the floor-covered.
  • Measure bathing baths, relate them to the size of the landing place. The angular bath should always be installed correctly. At the same time, two walls that form a landing place should converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
  • We prepare all the components for the manufacture of the bath frame.
  • Separate all the components. So it will be easier to get to them. So how to fix the legs of the bathroom?
  • In the ends of the legs gently insert the plugs. Well snatch them.
  • In adjusting legs (within which the thread is contained) screw the studs.

  • Hound 2 locknuts on the studs.
  • We collect a profile from which the frame itself will be manufactured.
  • The profile has a hole on the insert. In it screwed up the heel of the adjusting leg.
  • The first lock nut must be rotten to the profile, the second - to the leg. So the design will be not only stable, but also reliable.
  • Profiles set on the bowl. We screw them with self-draws that are present included.
  • Collecting the second profile, it is necessary to prepare long and short studs.
  • A smaller pin must be screwed into locknuts on the same principle as legs.
  • But the pancake pin must be fastened from the profile side, which should be located on the side of the start side of the bowl itself.
  • Plastic legs are installed on both sides on the shorted longer stilette. Thus, one leg of the bowl must rest in the floor, and the other - in the board of acrylic containers.
  • After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. At the same time, note that after installing the support legs to the profile of their plugs, must be placed at the same level. With the help of the line, you can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
  • We can assume that the acrylic bath is ready. The collected design can be turned over and installed on the prepared place.
  • Using the level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs, bringing the nuts on the supports.

Enhanced mount acrylic bath

The above methods, how to secure the bath are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be fixed in another way. After all, long-term operation of the bath on the supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crusts on the plot between the fortified profiles. What if swinging the bath? How to fix it right?

This slight deficiency is not critical, but it is desirable to eliminate it. To do this, it is necessary to prepare standard foam concrete blocks with a size of 250 mm by 625 mm.

Deciding to install a bath on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the fastener frame of the profile. It must be made to a distance from 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks need to be installed under the bowl on the mounting foam. After the foam finally freezes, the bath will become fixed and stop crunch.

This method of installing the bath requires a minimum of financial costs, because only foam balloon and several bricks need to be purchased.

Features of the construction of reinforced fasteners

So, installation works are to perform consistent actions:

  • We raise the bath for the maximum height using the adjusting supports.
  • On the perimeter of the future styling of bricks, we blow the strip of the mounting foam.
  • We make foam on the brick, put it on the floor.
  • We lower the bowl on the foam with the help of adjustable supports that fix nuts.
  • After 24 hours you can use plumbing.

For better adhesion of foam with floor or brick, the surface is recommended to be mixed with a pulverizer with water.

Remember that when the object is consolidated, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work as a whole. What else to pay attention to, before fixing the bath on the legs?

Water stack

The proper water stack device is necessary for the normal functionality of the plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, according to many non-professionals. It is necessary to perform the main condition of the stack: all tubes of the siphon and drain must be located above the level of the sewer pipe.

The large difference in height will allow water faster. Due to the rapid flow, the liquid will be able to automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to more often make repairs and preventive inspections.

Remember: Before fastening the bowl, it is necessary to raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of use of the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the bathroom sides should be in the optimal value.

Selection of hose in the siphon

Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in a siphone on smooth plastic pipes. With them, of course, it is easier to work, because it is not necessary to observe the size, they can be quickly bent in any position. But in the folds of the corrugations, the dirt accumulates, which is hard to remove simple washing. With frequent disassembly of the siphon, rubber seals and even threaded connections may suffer. As a result, serious damage arise, which in the future require the replacement of the entire device.

And if the bath is attached to the floor, then all the repair work is carried out extremely difficult. Experts recommend purchasing siphons in which the function of the sumps is performed by an ordinary bending of the tube. So the smell will not fall into the room, blockages will be much less likely. And with their occurrence, it is not necessary to disassemble the design, it is enough to use the usual vehicle.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend to give their preference to imported bath manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized by high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also the geometry of products.

In domestic products, the corners of the side are rarely straight. And the error in several degrees on a long length can turn into several millimeters. Therefore, in this case, a wedge clearance is formed between a flat wall and a side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide the silicone seal, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special plinths are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. Corners are spilled with the slightest swipes. It is not recommended to re-glued them.

Output

The arrangement of the bathroom is an important task with which every owner can cope with, which has little experience in the construction sector. Now you know how to fix the bath to the wall without difficulties.