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Homemade aquarium filters. DIY outdoor filter for an aquarium DIY outdoor filter for an aquarium

There is hardly a fish breeder who dares to engage in such a hobby without special equipment. Among the various devices necessary for comfortable breeding of fish, it is worth noting the filter. This article describes how to make a homemade aquarium filter. This is a great opportunity to get just such a device without unnecessary material expenses that will fully meet your goals.

What is an aquarium filter for?

The main purpose of the filter is a constant mechanical, high-quality biological cleaning of water and its saturation with oxygen. At the moment, manufacturers represent a fairly wide range of such devices. You can find them on the shelves of pet stores.

Choose from compact internal designs designed for smaller tanks. There are more serious external installations with which you can effectively clean fairly large volumes.

The cost of external devices is quite high. Therefore, many amateurs are considering the possibility of its independent implementation. Below is just a description of the process of how to independently make a silent external filter for an aquarium with your own hands.

Filter design

To understand how to make an external cleaning device yourself, it is worth studying one of the types of its design. In the process of self-execution of the device, you need to rely on the diagram presented to your attention:

  • The filter has the shape of a regular cylinder and is strictly vertical;
  • The built-in pump is responsible for the movement of the liquid. It is installed at the very top;
  • The liquid goes from the bottom of the installed apparatus through special fillers. After that, it penetrates into the aquarium;
  • Special filtering modern materials. It can be a variety of fillers.

Having dealt with what elements the filter consists of, you can begin to assemble it. If you follow simple instructions, you can get the desired design quickly enough and use it for a long time.

Do-it-yourself external filter for an aquarium

To make an outdoor filter for an aquarium with your own hands, which fully meets all the requirements, it is worth preparing such elements and parts as two plastic tubes, a pair of plastic plugs, a conventional fitting, a small faucet, an electrically powered pump, nuts and a fum tape. For reliable filtration, you can use affordable foam rubber and more common padding bases.

Many people buy filter wool, special bioballs. The best option would be to use zeolite and peat. The first is an inexpensive sorbent that absorbs ammonium. The second material is also inexpensive and is ideal for reducing the growth of fungal organisms. In addition, the material has a positive effect on the general condition of the liquid, effectively reduces the pH level in its composition.

Having prepared the necessary materials and tools, you can proceed to the implementation of the outdoor device. In this case, the following sequence of actions must be observed:

  1. At the bottom of the pipe, you will need to make a hole where the fitting will then be screwed. The thread must be wrapped with fum tape. A nut is screwed on from the inside.
  2. Selected fillers are laid on the grid, alternating them with each other.
  3. You can use a small piece of hose to hold the pump. He will attach it to the fitting responsible for the withdrawal of water.
  4. The tube to ensure the flow of water is firmly attached with a small suction cup, and one end should rest against the bottom.

The main advantage is that the built-in tubes are not visible, and there is a lot of free space in the tank for the fish.

Do-it-yourself internal filter for an aquarium from a compressor

The internal filter made from the compressor has a significantly simplified design, so there will be no problems with manufacturing. To get a reliable device made in accordance with all the rules, you will need to prepare the following materials:

  • Plastic bottle with a volume of 0.5 l;
  • A small piece of synthetic winterizer bought in a store;
  • A plastic tube that matches the neck in terms of diameter;
  • Some pebbles to fill the bottom;
  • Conventional compressor and rubber hose.

Having prepared everything you need for work, you can begin to solve the question of how to make an internal filter for an aquarium with your own hands. Here is a special sequence of actions:

  1. The bottle needs to be cut into halves, but not equal, but so that one is slightly smaller. In this case, the smaller one should have a throat hole. The main bowl is directed upward with a narrow edge and with a certain effort. This will allow the structure to remain tight.
  2. On the outside, you will need to make a small hole in size, where water will come. Diameter parameters are not more than 3-4 mm. The best option would be the arrangement of two rows of holes made, approximately 6 each.
  3. A small tube is inserted into the neck. It is important to ensure that no gaps form between the top and the pipe.
  4. The tube must necessarily protrude a couple of centimeters above the surface. The filter must not be laid on the bottom, as it may interfere with the flow of liquid.
  5. A little gravel is poured onto the bowl and a layer of high-quality padding polyester is laid. A tube and a prepared hose of the circulation pump are placed and everything is carefully fixed.

This category of filter is ideal for maintaining optimal water composition and purity. The principle of operation of the installed device is simple. It is completely based on Aerofleet. This ideally saturates the water where the fish live with oxygen. That's what a quality pump is for in an aquarium.

Do-it-yourself bottom filter for an aquarium

Bottom types of devices are suitable for relatively small reservoirs. This device can be completed quickly and without any problems, based on a plastic box with a regular lid. They must be transparent to track the degree of contamination.

You need to insert and secure the aquarium tube into the lid, and several holes will need to be made on the side. The previously prepared filter composition is placed in the inner part. For the atomizer, it is worth using a special ceramic device.

Many amateurs use an ordinary liter jar in the form of the main body of such a filter. It will need to be covered as tightly as possible with a polyethylene lid and a small hole should be made in it. It is required to allow water to flow. It is allowed to use another aquarium cover as an addition, using it as a partition located with filter bases. If glass jars are not at hand, you can use a ceramic vessel filled with nylon threads and quartz sand.

Summing up

Self-execution of an external filter for an aquarium with your own hands from a circulation pump, subject to the instructions presented to your attention, will not take much time. If you try and choose materials correctly, you can get not only an ideal functional device, but an attractive device in terms of its external characteristics. This is an ideal opportunity to get a device that fully meets personal requirements and save personal money.

Mechanical water filtration is the easiest and most effective way to keep your aquarium clean. It is enough to install such a device and connect it to the network so that the water in the aquarium is always fresh and clear.

There are different configurations of equipment for purifying aquarium water, but the principle of operation of all aquarium filters is the same: an electric pump pumps water from the tank through a porous filter media, in which waste products of fish and other inhabitants of an ornamental reservoir are retained.

Experienced aquarists most often use outdoor multi-stage filter systems. Unlike internal filters, they do not take up space in the aquarium and have a high performance.

Water intake in such a system is carried out through a thin PVC hose immersed in the aquarium, through a similar tube the purified water is returned to the aquarium. There is nothing complicated in the device of such a filtration and aeration system, so if you wish, you can do it yourself.

Homemade aquarium filter will be in no way inferior to store counterparts, and subject to regular maintenance - cleaning and replacing filter elements - it will effectively cope with its functions.

What is required to create the simplest aquarium filtration and aeration system?

Understanding the principle of operation of the filter installation, it is possible to assemble a productive external filter for a standard aquarium with a volume of 100-200 liters from various improvised materials, as well as from inexpensive components that can be bought on any construction market.

To create the simplest aquarium filtration and aeration system, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • drill and drills of various diameters;
  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • sandpaper;
  • pump (an old pump from a submersible filter will do);
  • sewer PVC pipe 110 mm (joint);
  • plugs with a diameter of 110 mm - 4 pieces;
  • cable glands pg-7 - 2 pieces;
  • cable glands pg-16 - 2 pieces;
  • Mayevsky crane (device for air release from the filter housing);
  • ball valve for regulating the water pressure at the outlet;
  • transparent silicone hose with a diameter of 8-10 mm;
  • filter media - highly porous ceramic rings;
    foam rubber;
  • liquid silicone for sealing seams.

They are used as a means of biological treatment.


Filter elements for filter

Ceramics (special clay) has a porous structure, and a special shape significantly increases the working surface area on which beneficial bacteria develop.

In the course of their life activity, they convert the ammonium excreted by the fish into nitrates, which the plants living in the aquarium consume.

Ceramic rings must be periodically (once a month) washed, and as they become heavily soiled (if washing does not help), they should be renewed.

Instructions - how to make the simplest aquarium filtration and aeration system

Of the elements listed above, you can independently assemble a full-fledged filter for the aquarium using improvised tools.


Filter assembly and installation

The procedure is as follows:

  1. In one of the plugs, which will serve as the top cover of the filter, it is necessary to drill 5 holes - cable entries and a Mayevsky crane will be mounted in them. The holes must be 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the threads of the inlets and the tap.
  2. 4 inlets and a tap are carefully screwed into the finished holes. All seams for better sealing are coated with silicone. Since the body is made of soft PVC, you do not need to use much force when twisting the parts.
  3. On the pipe coming out of the pump, you need to tightly put on the silicone hose and bring it out through one of the large inlets. Insert the wire from the pump into the small inlet.
  4. In the second large input, you need to insert a hose for water intake.
  5. Two plugs with a diameter of 110 mm must be cut off the side so that they fit inside the pipe. In each resulting circle, you need to drill one large hole for the intake tube (the diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the tube), as well as 2-3 dozen small holes for water circulation in the filter.
  6. Next, we make the bottom cover of the filter. To do this, we place the ring (which was left during the previous step) in the whole plug, and install a prepared circle on it with a hole for the water supply hose.
  7. It remains only to assemble the filter. To do this, a layer of foam rubber (mechanical cleaning filter) is laid on the lower grid, a layer of ceramic filler is poured on it, then a layer of foam rubber is laid again and the filler is poured again.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Aquarium Water Filtration System ready! It remains to install the pump, fill the filter with water, close the top cover and place two hoses (intake and clean water supply hose) into the aquarium.

Before starting operation, carefully inspect all connections for leaks. If leaks are found, drain the water from the filter and coat the problem areas with silicone sealant.

Since I didn’t manage to get everything (quietly, efficiently and conveniently) and immediately (in one device) using the samp, I decided to make an external one. For a long time I studied the works of serious homemade aquarists of ours and foreign ones.
I took out the following for myself - if you try to get by with a purchased one, it will either be very expensive and good, or expensive and bad.

Pump

I noticed that serious filters are often made (if the filter is homemade) on separate, good pumps. Milwaukee pumps were especially impressive, they are put in ADA filters. Space price. I also noticed that many people use different types of circulation pumps, the Mormans remake them and change the cast-iron pump housing to a plastic one. Low power circulation pumps (those used in individual heating) do not make noise, are durable and relatively inexpensive. I bought a Grundfos UPS 25-40 - this is the smallest pump in the series.

Filter housing

I have a filter for an aquarium 2 * 220 liters, fresh, herbalist. On the filter, in fact, only mechanical cleaning. Bio-filtration is not required from it.
I thought for a long time whether to bother with possible rust in the pump (its cast-iron body). You could try to buy a three-way pump with a stainless steel housing or make a plastic snail. Almost matured to the manufacture of a snail (pump housing) from plastic, but so far I was thinking how and from what to make - I didn’t care. I decided to leave the cast iron and see how it will rust.
The next problem was the choice of housing for the filter. The usual 10-inch flasks that go into household water filters are skinny - you can't put a lot of filter material in them.

There are BigBlue flasks - they are much thicker and come in as much as 20 inches. 20 does not fit into my cabinet with my filter layout. Decided to put 10 inch. 2 pieces.

Filter scheme

The next question is the filter circuit. There are several options for switching on: pump - 2 * flasks in parallel, 2 * flasks in parallel-> pump, flask-> pump-> flask, flask-> flask-> pump. The pump has a bad attitude to the resistance at the inlet, if it is present, the performance drops sharply. So it is desirable to put the flasks after the pump. Of course, it's bad that the pump will become clogged. If it becomes clogged, I will put a coarse filter at the inlet.
How to turn on the flasks - in series or in parallel. The switching scheme will determine the method of laying the filter material and its type. When connected in series, the filter must be petal or bag, i.e. placed vertically in the flask. You can turn on a coarse filter and a fine one after it. When connected in parallel in the flasks, the water velocity will be 2 times lower and it will be possible to use foam rubber discs with a hole as a filter material.

Filter material

I decided that I would put 4 layers of 50mm foam rubber into the filter and turn on the flasks in parallel. 2 layers of coarse and 2 layers of medium. There is no small yet.
The foam rubber is cut in the form of a disk with a knife and a hole is drilled in the center for a tube that goes to the bottom of the filter. Drilling foam rubber is not a trivial task, it’s not good to cut it with a knife, just don’t make a hole with a hole saw or an ordinary drill - the drill grabs it and also strives to wrap your fingers around itself after the foam rubber. So I first cut it into squares:
Then I put it in a bag, filled it with water and put it in the freezer. Drilled already in the form of ice cream:


Then cut to a circle with a knife. It turned out thick bagels tightly sitting on a pipe with a diameter of 32mm.
The BigBlue flask had to be slightly modified (although this is not necessary). On the bottom, from the inside, it has a protrusion with which the cartridge is pressed. It is tall (25-30 millimeters) and it seemed to me superfluous - it steals the working height of the filter. I cut this bead. It is inconvenient to really cut, with ticks biting in a circle for a long time.
I got a filter cartridge from 5 parts - a tube and 4 donuts of foam rubber. The length of the tube is chosen in such a way as to rest against the bottom and the lid with a tightly twisted flask:


Layout

I decided that auto-topping would be in the line, I would supply CO2 there, it would be good to supply all this to the pump. The gas will be well broken up by the impeller of the pump and completely dissolved while the water moves through the filter.

The pump had to be placed on top - this is not very good, it will be difficult to expel air at startup. But from the bottom it is not at all convenient. Pipes took 32 mm, polypropylene for welding. I did not find such a small diameter for gluing in Tver, and the cost of mounting on glue will not win. Fittings for polypropylene are widely available, there is a possibility of different solutions and errors. I made a lot of mistakes in the process, extra fittings formed a small box. But I do not regret - I took it all to R&D :). I tried to use less metal, and if you take metal fittings, then at least nickel-plated (white). I used PN10 pipes - they are the thinnest, the wall is about 3mm in total, and they are the cheapest. Plumbing vendors know it as "cold water pipe".

In order for the filter to be serviced, it must be possible to disconnect it from the aquarium and close the hoses. Polypropylene has excellent connectors without metal, purely on plastic.

Let's see how it will be:




The filter was made collapsible, so in the last picture on the right you can see one more connector. In the final version, he moved to the left. I have hoses with an inner diameter of 25mm, taps are also 25, and connectors are 25.

When welding pipes, when it is necessary to switch from 32 pipes to 25, you need to use a fitting connector 3 + transition 32-35. But I noticed that the pipe at 25 (also PN10) enters the 32 pipe, enters freely, but does not hang out much. I decided to try to weld the pipe by 25 into the pipe by 32 - it turns out to be quite possible, just need a little finger (carefully, hot, gloves are required) to distribute the 25th pipe from the inside after inserting it into the 32nd. The resulting seam is monolithic. Tried to cut. In the future, I often used this, in the manufacture of aquarium plumbing.

We take an "iron" for welding polypropylene, put on gloves (after all, the temperature of the iron is 270) and go. For welding, it is convenient to press the iron to the table with a clamp through the gasket (so that the table does not burn out). Sometimes you need a helper for welding. After some time, we get the following construction:

The pump bends the pipe slightly under its own weight. Need support. Let's learn in the stand.

I made a filter stand from a 10 * 10 square pipe. I usually made - we cut, cook, paint. This is how it turned out with the stand:



If you decide to acquire an aquarium, then you need to think in advance what is needed for its normal functioning. Ready-made equipment can be bought without problems in a specialized store. But often the cost of the tank and additional elements to it is very high. This article will tell you how to make an external filter for an aquarium with your own hands, and what you need for this.

Varieties of water regulators

One of the most important elements of any aquarium is the filter. It not only purifies the water, but also removes soluble medicines, circulates the liquid and fills it with oxygen. Installations are of several types. There are external and internal filters. There are also bottom regulators. They look like a plate with a certain number of holes through which water circulates. This unit is easy to install and very effective. However, you can only put it in a new tank.

According to the principle of operation, filters for cleaning the aquarium are divided into biological, mechanical, chemical. The latter work on the principle of absorption. Activated carbon is used as a filler. Often, special adsorbents are used to remove nitrates. They rid the water of ammonia and other harmful substances. The most popular are floaters.

Do-it-yourself mechanical external filter for an aquarium is the easiest to make. This is a kind of container made of a material through which water passes. The regulator cleans the liquid from turbidity, algae, etc. It must be changed frequently so that the decomposing mass does not poison the water in the aquarium. This type of filter works according to the simplest principle - it removes debris from the water.

Biological external filters for an aquarium (reviews about them are very positive) are some kind of pumps. They provide constant circulation of water. The installation consists of a sponge with nitrifying bacteria and a gravel substrate. If you do not know how to install the filter in the aquarium correctly, it is better to contact the master. He will take into account that the pump must drive through itself 3 times more water than is present in the tank. Most often it is installed inside the aquarium. When replacing the pump, do not leave a sponge inside the tank - all bacteria can die.

Differences between internal and external regulators

Before installing a filter in an aquarium, you need to decide which one to choose. Internal installations are attached to the glass with suction cups. External - located outside. They take water through a tube that is immersed in the aquarium. Comparing the characteristics of the filters, I would like to note that external regulators look preferable for the following reasons:

  • cleaning quality is much better;
  • the filter does not take up space inside the tank;
  • the underwater world without an internal device looks much more aesthetically pleasing.

Also, the external filter is easy to maintain. Cleaning and rinsing does not need to be done in the shortest possible time. Such a regulator does not require a specific type of filter material. You can use different components and place them in separate baskets or containers for fillers. The effectiveness of an external filter has been proven by aquarists for a long time. Due to the uniform distribution of water and the large area of ​​filter materials, the cleaning process is of the highest quality. To install it, you do not need to lift the lid of the tank with fish, it does not spoil the overall appearance of the aquarium. To turn off the system, it is enough just to turn off the taps, while the internal installation will have to be taken directly from the tank, which will cause anxiety of its inhabitants.

Device diagram

Before you install the filter in the aquarium, you need to decide on the scheme of the future regulator. It is better to create a cylindrical cleaner. In a vertical section from top to bottom, the filter looks like this: an internal pump, a biofilter, foam rubber and a rigid mesh partition. An electric pump circulates the water. It enters the lower part of the regulator through the tube, passes through the filter elements. Then the water bypasses the pump and returns to the tank already cleaned. Such a filter for an aquarium (200 liters) is the best fit.

Tools and equipment

Even a beginner can make an external filter for an aquarium with his own hands. But this will require certain tools and materials:

  • pump for pumping water;
  • Mayevsky crane in order to release the remaining air;
  • valve on the outlet pipe;
  • nuts;
  • plastic sewer pipe (60 cm);
  • rubber cuff for pipe joints, if there is no solid pipe;
  • Union;
  • two plugs on the ends of the pipe (on the top of the filter and the bottom);
  • spanners;
  • FUM-tape for creating sealing threaded connections.

Do-it-yourself external filter for an aquarium: assembly

As a basis, you can use the pump from the previous submersible filter. First, make a hole in the bottom of the pipe. Its size should be equal to the diameter of the fitting. It should fit tightly into the hole. A homemade filter for an aquarium should be sealed. The thread of the fitting is wrapped with tape, and with the help of a nut it is screwed in from the inside. Some advise lubricating the connecting elements with silicone for additional sealing. The inlet can be made more free with the help of improvised means.
A homemade cap from a plastic bottle, in which holes are made, will be a great helper in this matter. Some people use perforated CDs for this.

A cap with a mesh is placed at the bottom of the filter, a piece of foam rubber is placed on top. A biofilter with a ceramic filler is placed on it. You can buy it at any aquarium store. Another layer of foam rubber is placed on top and again the filler.

Due to the fact that the pump is fixed with a fitting and a reinforced hose, it sits tightly. Threaded connections and pipe outlets must be sealed. A switch can be installed in the place where the wire breaks. Pipe joints and plugs are soldered using an electric burner. You can check the system for leaks. If the seams are leaking, then it is better to solder them.

A glass tube can be used to draw water. It must be fixed on the back wall of the aquarium with a suction cup so that the lower edge rests on the ground. The pipe can be hung on the wall of the tank - it will hardly be seen there.

A homemade aquarium filter needs to be checked several times. In the event of leaks, defects must be repaired immediately. It is advisable to observe the installation.

It is very profitable to assemble a filter for an aquarium yourself - you will pay no more than 600 rubles for all the materials, while in a store such an installation costs from 1,500 rubles. Fans of the underwater world and its inhabitants save a lot on this. Indeed, why spend extra money, while anyone can make a filter for an aquarium?

Specifications

If you made an external cleaner according to the instructions above, it will have the following characteristics:

  1. Volume - 3 liters.
  2. Pipe diameter - 10 cm.
  3. Height - 42 cm.
  4. Throughput - 5 l / min.

How to clean the device yourself?

A homemade filter will not need cleaning for a long time. If the installation has been running for a long time, you can clean it yourself. To do this, disconnect the filter from the mains and flush the system from dirt and mucus. For convenience, it is better to use several types of filter material. Mechanical cleaners should be flushed at least once a week.

Common Mistakes

It often happens that it is not possible to assemble the filter yourself. If the unit does not fit snugly into the housing, then most likely the filter baskets are overfilled or incorrectly placed. Sometimes the drainage holes are incorrectly aligned. It happens that the rubber gaskets do not fit into their grooves.

Filter leaks can be caused by:

  • Loosely closed device head clamps. This may be due to the usual inattention of the master. The human factor takes place in any field of activity. It is not difficult to fix the problem - it is enough to fix the clamps more tightly.
  • Dirty gasket/seal. In a freshly assembled filter, of course, this will not happen, but this happens in working installations. Sealing gum must be cleaned of mucus and dirt, preferably lubricated with petroleum jelly or another substance. To avoid this problem, it is important to check the status of the system once a month.
  • Gasket not inserted correctly.

If the external filter does not work, the first thing to check is that the system is connected to the mains. It often happens that someone accidentally pulled the plug out of the socket. If this does not help, and the filter does not work, you need to check the condition of the pump or rotor. Sometimes pebbles or snail shells interfere with the normal functioning of parts. If the system is not pumping water, it may simply not be there. Without fluid, the external filter will not work. Before filling with water, the unit must be disconnected from the power supply. If the filter has reduced power, the pipes and hoses of the system may be dirty. You need to check their appearance, see if they are twisted. Dirty filter media can also interfere with effective operation.

There are two types of filters: external and internal. How to choose the one that is right for you?

First of all, pay attention to the size of your aquarium. If it is large enough, then there is not much difference. But usually we have only limited space available to accommodate either a small or medium aquarium. In this case, it will be appropriate to use an external filter.

Unlike the internal filter, the external filter is not installed directly in the aquarium, but outside it. This helps save a lot of space.

The external filter does not take up space in the aquarium and does not spoil its overall appearance.

The operation of such a device is as follows: water from the aquarium enters the device, passes through the filter elements, and then returns to the fish.

The external filter has the following advantages:

  • it does not occupy a useful place inside the aquarium;
  • the contents of the aquarium look more aesthetic without such devices;
  • filter media purifies water better.

Of course, among the huge range of such devices, you can choose the one that suits you in all respects. But their prices are too high. So why not take the opportunity to make an external filter with your own hands? This idea is easy to implement. It turns out that everything you need can be easily purchased in stores and on the market, and the assembly and installation work itself is simple enough that even a beginner can handle it.

How to care for an aquarium filter?

For the filter to work properly, it must be regularly clean. Otherwise, it will start to work worse, and then completely pollute the aquatic environment (the latter applies to internal filters).

The smaller the filter area and the larger the volume of water, the more often it is necessary to clean the filter.

To determine the regularity of filter cleaning, you should not only carefully read the manufacturer's instructions, but also observe the filter in operation. If it starts to work weaker, then it's time to rinse it. Smaller filters may need weekly cleaning, while larger models may need one cleaning every 2 months.

In order not to destroy the colony of beneficial bacteria, wash the filter with water at room temperature and do not do it too thoroughly. In addition, you should not wash the filter if you change the water in the aquarium, add new fish, introduce new food, otherwise you will upset the established balance in the aquarium.

Washcloth replacement in the filter is another important point. You shouldn't do this too often. Wait until it begins to lose its filtering ability and shape. In addition, in the internal filter, the washcloth consists of several parts, and only one of them needs to be changed at a time, so that later beneficial bacteria from the “old” parts quickly spread to new ones.

Remember that the filter in the aquarium should work constantly and without interruption, so choose the right model responsibly and do not chase the cheapest option. Stop your choice on high-quality equipment that has proven itself well and will serve you for a long time.

Homemade external filter for the aquarium.

As a small-time hobbyist, I have found that the internal filter in my aquarium is not up to the task. And from the frequent maintenance of the filter, only the inhabitants of my aquarium suffered.

Having studied the information on filters, I came to the conclusion that the unambiguous correct solution is to use an external filter. Biofiltration is extremely efficient, and none of the water purification methods can even partially replace it.

The composition of water purified by an external filter is approximately similar to that of slow-flowing natural reservoirs. With a weekly refreshment of a third of the volume of the main aquarium, it can be considered that the ichthyofauna and hydroflora are contained practically in running natural water - hence all the successes achieved in systems with biofiltration.

The news that was not pleasant for me was that the cost of the external filter turned out to be commensurate with the cost of the aquarium itself.

Having familiarized myself with the design of the externals, I decided to make an analogue of the external filter Eheim with my own hands.

For the production of a homemade external filter, the following was purchased:
– Pump (fountain pump), RESUN company, Chinese production 30 W., 2000 l / h
— PVC connector for sewer pipe d = 200 mm. + 2 plugs for it,
– cranes, angles, sagons, etc.,
- PVC pipe d = 20 mm. for receiving and delivering water to the aquarium 4 m.,
- a flask from a household filter,
- fillers for the filter.

The following construction was used for insertion into the plugs.

My choice in this pump was due to the fact that the filter has a lot of bends in the pipes, and the final results ended up being halved.

Drilled holes in the top and bottom covers for water inlet and outlet. When installing the fittings, I used rubber gaskets with an additional application of silicone-ion sealant.

I tried to get the plug into the rubber sealing bands and I couldn't, it was too tight. I understand that if I can put the plug in, I won't take it out. Moving away from that, I cut off the ends of the connector to remove the filter, if at all it was possible to remove the rubber, and thereby depressurize the filter. At the bottom of the coupling is a seat for the inlet fitting.

The clutch edge trim will later be installed inside the clutch and hold the grate.

The bottom cover has a grate above the nozzle level.To do this, we had to pull out a box of vegetables.

Then, in good conscience, we can install the bottom cover into the slot. Since sealing rubber will not be used here, it is necessary to cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cork with silicone. After installing the plug, additionally seal the connections inside and out with sealant.

A hole was drilled in the cover for the mains cable and air outlet. There was no need to attach the pump to a plug, and even without one, it is securely attached to a length of hose and power cord.

A connector similar to the one used in street lights was used to seal the power cord. Flip the switch where the wire breaks.

Under the handle of the inlet pipe, a household incandescent filter is installed for fastening, which will serve as a coarse filter for coarse cleaning. Without this, this would be possible, but then I would have to install a sponge on the inlet pipe directly in the aquarium or wash the canister every month (I plan to flush the canister every 6 months at least).

for pre-production. a sewer pipe filter made of PVC d = 32 mm is required. In which many holes were drilled. It would be possible to use additional in prev. filtered activated carbon or zeolite, but first decided on a foam sponge.

When all parts of the filter assembly will pass to fill with fillers.

1st layer. Below, first of all, we arrange the material for dense filtration. For these purposes, foam with a large cell is most suitable. Unfortunately, I could not find a rubber foam for aquariums of the right size. Instead, he used something like a line ball.

3 layers. We apply a layer of foam using a small cell. In my case, I used a synthetic winterizer.

Every aquarium should have a filtration system that will purify the water, keeping the fish and plants healthy. As you know, the waste left by the inhabitants of the reservoir, as well as food remains, suspended soil particles are very harmful to fish. Unwashed food oxidizes, turning into toxic ammonia. In order for the water to pass through all the stages of purification at the right time, it is better to make an external filter for the aquarium with your own hands. This prevents the release of harmful substances that can poison living beings.


Then place the tube in the neck of the bowl so that it seals into it. After the procedure, do not notice any gaps or holes between the tube and the neck. The length of the tube itself is selected taking into account the projection onto the structure by 2-3 cm, while it should not touch the bottom of the bottle. If the step is not done correctly, water will not be able to get into the mechanism.

Take the gravel and lay it on top of the bowl with a 6 cm layer and cover with a piece of polyester lining. Install the hose in the aerator pipe and repair it. When the mechanism is ready, place it in the aquarium. Then turn on the compressor to make the filter work. The preferred microorganisms will appear in existing equipment that will process ammonia into nitrates, which create a beneficial microbial environment in the water.

How does a manual external filter work?

The self-propelled external filter is built on the basis of an air duct: air bubbles leaving the compressor rise up the pipe from which they reach the top and reduce the flow of water from the filter. Clean and oxygenated water enters the upper compartment of the glass and passes through the gravel. Then water enters the bowl through the hole, goes down to the pipe and enters the tank. Synton works here as a mechanical filter. This material prevents silting of the gravel base.

Chemically and mechanically purifies water. Similar designs should be installed in a large aquarium with a volume of 200-400 liters. In the case of larger aquariums with a capacity of 500-1000 liters, several of these devices are needed. Branded outdoor water treatment systems are expensive, so it's best to do it yourself. Materials are affordable and accessible to everyone.



Another way to create an external filter

For the next external filter, you need to prepare the following data:

  • A plastic container with a tight lid (you can take a box for storing cereals);
  • Sponge or thick material with a porous structure;
  • Sealed water pump and connector for attaching to the lid with a container;
  • Material for biological filtration (medical cotton, ceramic granules);
  • Multiple suction cups, resin adhesive structure.

See how to make an external filter with your own hands.

Instructions for creating a filter:

  1. You need to take a thin file and make cuts around the entire perimeter of the bottom compartment of the plastic container. The pieces will go through the water.
  2. In this plastic container, place a sponge - cotton wool or other element for biofiltration.
  3. Make holes on the tank cover corresponding to the diameter of the pump nozzle.
  4. Insert the nozzle into the hole and secure it with a resin or silicone aquarium.
  5. Mount the pump on a nozzle that can create pressure inside the container.
  6. On the side of the container that is wider, attach some household suction cups.
  7. The internal filtration system can be considered finished. The suction cups can hold the device on the aquarium wall.

Such a home filter can be installed not on the wall, but placed on the bottom of the tank. The soil also acts as a biological filter. The plastic nozzle may be attached to the plastic outlet in the form of a long tube that extends outward. Then, after cleaning, the water will be saturated with oxygen.

Instead of a small plastic container, you can use a plastic container or non-toxic stainless steel canister. This design is suitable for large aquariums, it can accommodate large cassettes and cartridges with filter elements. You should keep your homemade filters at the same frequency as the branded ones.

If the filter is leaking, check all of its components:

  • Are the clamp mechanisms tightly closed. You can unintentionally fix parts with glue or resin. You may be able to fix the problem by reattaching the clips.
  • The sponge or suction cup may get dirty in the flow filter. Mucus and dirt can be cleaned with water. Check the cleanliness of the project every month.
  • Damage to the plastic container, which will have to be changed by fiddling with the filter itself.

I'll start with a short introduction. Although I have a long aquarium of 140 liters, I consider myself only an amateur. Because he kept the fish solely for the soul (something must be done). In the winter, I managed to take care of my animals, but in the summer it was not so, so I will start by saying that I need to catch skeletons. Sitting up the next winter evening, I looked at my aquarium and decided that it was necessary, something like this would continue, no more. I always wanted to achieve clean, lush vegetation, but it only partially worked. Even after replacing the internal filter Atman F-102 i got more powerful Atman F-104 .

The results of those I wanted didn't work. So I decided or thought I visited, I don't remember, but I went to the Internet and started looking for a way to achieve a normal state and found that in addition to internal filters, there are external filters. In short, after reading them, I came to the conclusion that I need it, but here the prices are a little bit bitten (Kiev prices on the Internet are 800-1400 grams, the cheapest Chinese Atman CF-800 is 600 grams).

Since I live in Ukraine, a hundred kilometers from Kherson in a small town, we do not have such filters for sale. And in order to go to Kherson, I was not sure that I would find it at the price that is in Kiev and what I need. I didn't want to order online because I prefer to look at the goods and then pay than vice versa. I was already thinking about how to come up with something similar and why, when I came across a homemade external filter on the site.

After a very long time of thinking, I came to the conclusion that I need to do my homework. Why I decided, firstly, the availability of spare parts included a tap, went, bought and even an engine from an internal filter, we have them in stock, we bought a filter, the engine tuned it and no problems. And so, to go to Kherson, there is something or not, and the fish will not wait all the time. But since we simply do not supply 200 pipes, we do not use them, we only needed 160 and 100. When I returned home, I was even a little nervous, but I measured the pump from the Atman f-104 filter (according to the characteristics, Description: Power - 38 W Productivity - 2000 l / h. Water increase - 2 m.) I was convinced that everything should stand very firmly in the ass. Since there were no 350 mm long connectors, I took a meter long 160 mm pipe and a plug. I decided to combine everything with plastic compounds. He prepared a list of necessary things and, having bought all the necessary things, he set to work.

Once again, having familiarized myself with the internal filters, I took the filter as a basis Eheim Classic 2213

Technical details: For aquarium: up to 250 l.
Productivity: 440 l / h.
Water capacity: 1.5 m.
Filter capacity: 3 l.
Dimensions: 160 x 160 x 355 mm.
Power consumption: 8W.
The height of the Atman f-104 pump was 10 cm, then I added it and it turned out to be 160x160x450mm. I started thinking about how to make the bottom, first cut a thick plastic circle on the silicone and tap the ends myself, but then it dawned on me, but what if you heat the pipe and put on a hat. I made a segment from the main one and went to the experiment. On the gas stove (the biggest burner) I started to flip the flame (I had to wear gloves, my fingers were hot), over time the tube softened, it became flexible rubber, and I was able to insert the cork. Realizing that everything would work very well, I did the same with the main object (if someone wants to do this, do not lower it into the flame, so as not to damage the plastic, you should evenly rewind the tube and try it for flexibility,

I made the bottom, I decided on the top, everything worked, even better than I could have imagined, the pump spout went right to the 20th corner, all that was left was to lubricate the plastic with a silicone aquarium and everything was fine. The engine had a shelf at the back, I decided to make a retaining bar so that the engine would hang not only on the nose, but also rest on the rod (everything also lacked silicone), because this whole part of the plug had to be completely inserted into the pipe so that in the future it would pull out him, cut a segment 24 mm wide from the experimental tube on the branch pipe, which would serve as a stop.

When installing Mayevsky's faucet, I decided to drill a hole so that Mayevsky, when screwing it, cut off the thread with a coating and everything worked (I also put it on silicone) I bought a wire tape on the market (there different diameters are used for street lamps or electric motors)

Since I was not satisfied with the loading of the filter elements, both in the German filter and in the filter I created on this page, I decided to make the cargo baskets as in the filters Eheim Professional 2224 etc.

Not finding the right packaging, I decided to make a basket from the remaining pipe. I made three pieces 8 cm in diameter, this can be done with two ceramic rings and biological balls, and fill the rest with a sponge if you find a diameter of 160x160 (after cutting 8 cm, cut this piece, then put it in a tube and indicate how much of it should be cut so that the gap is small, so that the basket moves effortlessly, first I glued the glue on the plastic, and for strength I made holes, twisted it with copper wire, drowned it in the grooves made from a wood burner... you can drill holes in the aquarium with silicone, but I decided to secure them securely (I didn't want the bottom to fall out during extraction and the whole drain was spilled)

I cut a 3 mm thick strip and glued it. She put it on silicone and twisted it on four sides, also made grooves and drowned. Then the bottom of the silicone was planted. The handle is also made from a tube. You can use pin screws, but I took the stem from a plastic pin (using foam attached to the wall) cut into 2 cm barrels and with a screw heated on a stove burnt in a hat.

Yes, Tati, when the pipe is cold, I gently knocked on the cork from the pipe, I inserted two plates into the cork to secure the baskets against it. I drowned them equally with the edge. After installation, the plug is covered with silicone and planted until it stops.

However, I decided to buy a large flask from a household filter (a small container is equipped with salt filler, and separately, as I know, put it in cold water
in front of the washing machine), I decided to do this based on a motorcycle faucet from household motorcycles. Water will enter the filter in one turn through the tube to the bottom of the flask, and then up through the sponge. I cut the tubing to bulb size on one end of the drilled holes and the other end on the silicone. Foam rubber has already been bought, ready in a round puffy flask at a pet store.

By the way, if you use a home filter, try taking the Mayevsky faucet from above, and not from the side, as I did for better air outlet, I had to drill a small hole and tighten the screw with an elastic band, I showed the arrow in the picture. I screwed the flask to a special clamp, the figure shows a device to which four lamb screws were attached, which pressed the top cover from the hole. Thanks to this, I can open the lid myself without touching the flask from the home filter.

a second basket with a sponge for bacteria, a third sponge and a synthetic winter wash.

After running the filter, there was no room for leaks (I screwed all the screw connections with a cable and lubricated them with aquarium silicone). The filter is quiet although when the Atman f-104 filter was running in the aquarium there was a slight rattle which was very bad at night and I had to turn it off to sleep and now we ate that its pump wasdomestic outdoor filter He works. When it comes to cleaning, it's too early to say, because the filter has only been working for a week, but the result is already noticeable, the water has become clearer, the fish are even happier. The head has not changed, the pump pumps well, although the sponge in the household filter is already half blocked. I had a cost of about 500 grams, considering that I had a filter pump and powdered clay. And then you decide to make or buy ready-made ones if you have them in stores. Well, that's probably all.

How to make an aquarium filter with your own hands and organize the filtration of your own aquarium? Regardless of whether it is external, internal or lower. What tools and equipment will you need? The answers to all these questions can be found in this article.

There are many options to do different types filters. We will look at the main ones.

Filter types:

  1. interior
  2. hinge
  3. external
  4. bottom

Internal filter

This is the simplest kind of filter. That, it purifies water quite well (according to its type). Creating an internal filter with your own hands is very simple. For this you will need: a plastic bottle (small size)

  • piece of sponge
  • filler (pebbles, "passing" in size in the neck of the bottle)
  • compressor, hose and one suction cup

We make four large holes in the lid. In the neck, under the cover, we make a hole in which one end of the hose should be “tight” (the other end is connected to the compressor). At the bottom of the bottle, in the wheel, we make holes for the release of purified water. Don't forget to make another hole for the suction cup, just below the bottom of the plastic bottle.

Fill our filter (bottle) with pebbles (or other filler), tighten the nut. Then we put a piece of sponge on the neck (it is desirable that it be the correct, slender shape) - this will be the lower part of our device. Insert the hose and suction cup into the appropriate holes. Place the filter in the aquarium and turn on the compressor. Ready!

Schematic representation of the internal filter

Hanging filter

Mounted aquarium filter also not complicated. But the "game" has more than internally.

For us, this will require:

  • any plastic, glass, plexiglass (every neutral material at hand)
  • compressor
  • sponge (synthetic winterizer), hose

We make a container or find it ready (something like a long plastic pot for plants, we make plastic walls (this can be clearly seen in the diagram). Fill the first compartment (where water is supplied) with a piece of polyester lining, the remaining sections with another or the same Filler In the last compartment, at the top, we make a hole and a groove for the release of purified water and hang the structure itself on the back of the aquarium.

Water is supplied by a compressor, similar to an external filter.

Installed filter circuit

External filter

DIY external or external aquarium filter, which will complicate . For its manufacture, you can use a plastic round high container or a plastic barrel with a lid. If it's not there, you can use a large diameter garden pipe. The truth is that in this case, the lid and bottom must be attached independently of each other.

You will need:

  • pump
  • plastic canister
  • synthetic simizer, filler
  • hoses, pipes

A plastic or metal sleeve with a one-way inlet valve is screwed into the bottom of the container. The lid has two holes. One for installation with an exhalation valve, the other for an electric pump, which in turn is attached to the inside of the cover.

Now you need to make refill cartridges. Suitable plastic pots have the same diameter as the inside of the container. At the bottom of such pots we make many holes for water circulation.

The first insert layer is located just above the input jack. And fill it with polyester lining. In subsequent layers, apply any other filler. You can use different ones:pebbles, coal fillers, volcanic rocks and others . It is imperative that the last insert does not touch the pump.

The power of the pump depends on the volume of the aquarium. The higher the volume, the stronger the pump must be.

External filter circuit

bottom filter

Worth mentioning are the bottom filters. The filter element, which is the soil of the aquarium. Water flows through it, which causes rough cleaning. The best cleaning is achieved when using sandy soil. This type of filter is practically not used, but we will consider it anyway.

This will require:

  • pump
  • pipes + pipes with holes at the bottom, underground
  • compressor (optional)

We lay pipes with holes underground. A plastic mesh with small holes should be inserted at the top so that the soil does not clog the holes in the pipe itself. The pump is closer to the surface. Ready!

In the case of a direct bottom flow filter, we use a compressor. More clearly, the design can be seen in the diagram.