How to make a pool with your own hands: step-by-step construction instructions. How to build a swimming pool at the dacha with your own hands Water pool at the dacha

On a hot summer day while relaxing at the dacha, it is very pleasant to plunge into a cool body of water. It’s good if there is a pond or river nearby. And if not? This is where your own pool comes in handy. Does it need to be as big as the Sports Palace? No, the purpose of a country artificial pond is to have fun, and not to set swimming records. Find out about all the nuances that you need to know about in more detail later in the article.

What types of country pools are there?

Types of pools found in summer cottages:

from scrap materials;
frame;
made of wood and film;
made of polypropylene;
from cinder blocks;
made of concrete;
made of composite plastic.

Which of these types to choose depends on the taste preferences of the owner and his experience in working with the materials used. The depth of a country artificial pond for adults usually does not exceed 1.5 m, and for swimming children - 0.5 m.

If the dacha plot has a slope, it is better to install the pool at its highest point. The location should not have trees or bushes in the immediate vicinity.

With a buried stationary option, the root system can damage the integrity of the structure and disrupt its waterproofing and tightness.

It is better to orient an artificial reservoir along the prevailing wind direction in the area. This arrangement will prevent dry leaves, grass and dust from getting into the water.

During the construction of a swimming pool on a summer cottage, stairs, gangways and ladders are provided. They will ensure safe entry and exit from the artificial reservoir from the outside and inside.

Additional attention should be paid to the system for filling the pool with water and emptying it. Typically, in large artificial reservoirs, automatic cleaning is used, when water is passed through a filter system in a closed cycle. This allows you to not change the water for a long time.

If engineering communications - water supply and sewerage - are connected to the dacha plot, you can use this fortunate circumstance. However, direct connection will require a project and permission from resource supply organizations. Unauthorized connection to these networks is unacceptable and may be punished with a large fine.

To supply power to pumps, filters, water heating devices and for lighting in the evening or at night, it is necessary to provide a power supply system.

Advice

It is better to entrust the connection of electrical equipment to specialists. This will protect against accidental electric shock both when connecting and during operation of the pool.

Frame

Frame pools include structures made of vertical posts and horizontal connecting strips installed at a certain pitch. They can be stationary or collapsible, that is, those that can be dismantled or moved to another location at any time.

The vertical posts of stationary pools are firmly pinched into the ground. In this case, either pre-dug pits or drilled wells are used. Racks can be in the form of metal pipes or rolled metal - a channel, an angle, an I-beam, concrete - of a round or rectangular section, wooden - in the form of logs or beams.

Pinching is done using concrete or cement-sand mortar. Before use, wooden elements must be treated with agents that prevent rotting, fungal damage and protect against insects that feed on wood. To reduce the flexibility of the racks when filling an artificial reservoir with a height of more than 50 cm, spacers are installed.

Horizontal planks are attached to the racks using bolts or self-tapping screws, creating either a solid board or a sparse one, if longitudinal gaps are left between the boards to save materials (in this case, the tensile strength of the film used is taken into account). Most often, horizontal planks are made from wooden edged boards.

In the simplest case, the inner bowl is lined with polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film. There are films produced specifically for swimming pools that have a rich blue color. In a more expensive version, for long-term stationary operation, sheet propylene is used, the seams of which are welded with a conventional construction hairdryer. Exterior finishing can also be made of polymer film or plastic sidings, onto which some kind of pattern or coloring is applied for decorative purposes.

If you are installing a stationary outdoor pool, you should ensure that its bowl is protected during the cold season from precipitation in the form of rain and snow, as well as dirt and dust blown by the wind. This way, preparation for the start of operation will be kept to a minimum. As such protection, you can use a set of several wooden panels that completely cover the pool bowl with a polyethylene or polypropylene film laid on top of them.

Structurally, the pool cover is made in various ways. This can be a separate building or an extension to the main house. Its manufacture is similar to the construction of a one-story building with a basement, resting on strip foundations.

The difference is that a cutout is made in the ceiling of the first floor for the pool bowl, and it itself is placed in the basement of the building or extension.

The finishing of such a pool and its enclosing structures is usually done with ceramic tiles, recreation areas are created, and sometimes a room is allocated for a bath or sauna.

Another option is a lightweight structure made of a metal (usually aluminum) profile, which is either covered with transparent fiberglass panels or covered with PVC film.

Pipes, including plastic ones used for plumbing, and metal profiles can be used as racks and upper chords of arches or trusses; in addition to the most common rolled products, box-shaped or “C”-shaped sections are allowed.

Horizontal and cross connections for rigidity are made in the form of metal or plastic strips.

First, an outdoor pool is installed, then a fencing structure is installed around it. To prevent the collapse of such a structure from the loads acting on it, before its manufacture, it is better to calculate the load-bearing capacity.

Structurally, a lightweight building over a pool can have a gable configuration with a pediment, a hipped one, a round one - in the form of a tent or a yurt, an arched or semi-arched system. Side guards can be:

sliding;
removable.

In some cases, only a covering in the form of a canopy or awning is installed, protecting from atmospheric influences in the form of rain or direct sunlight.

From scrap materials

This type of pool can be both very simple and one that requires a lot of effort and time.

The fastest and easiest way to make a pool is to adapt for this purpose some ready-made container that already has a bottom and walls. These could be old cast iron bathtubs, metal containers with an open top. They can be installed either buried in the ground or installed directly on the ground. This type of pool is filled with water using a hose and drained by hand scooping or using a hand pump.

Sometimes used tires from giant wheels of heavy-duty vehicles are used as artificial reservoirs.

These pools are installed on a concrete base, buried in the ground to its own thickness (for the open version) or the height of the tire is added to it - for the option involving complete burial in the ground.

Once installed, this pool can be painted or finished in a variety of ways. It is very suitable for children's games and entertainment.

There are pools made from railway metal containers, with the upper part cut to the required height. Such pools can be completely or partially buried in the ground or simply installed on a planned earthen area.

For use along the walls and bottom of the pool, waterproofing is installed on the inside, and they themselves are decorated either with ceramic tiles laid on a cement-sand mortar or with polypropylene film.

Another option is to construct a pool with a frame assembled from wooden pallets - pallets used for loading and transporting various goods. The configuration of such a pool depends on the area allocated for it.

The number of pallets needed to make a pool is four or more. And it itself can have a plan view from a simple square to more complex polygons with an even and odd number of sides. On a prepared base, preferably a flat concrete area, the required polygon is assembled from pallets and then tied together in 3 or 4 levels with plastic tapes, which perform the same function as metal hoops in a wooden barrel.

The bottom and walls of the resulting pool are lined with polypropylene film. Such a pool turns out to be collapsible. It easily decomposes into component elements that can be stored indoors for the winter, transported to another site, etc.

Sometimes you come across recommendations - to fold the walls of the pool from old plastic bottles. This advice seems very dubious for sanitary and hygienic reasons, since the required amount of this “material” required even for a small pool can only be collected at the nearest landfill.

Made from polypropylene

These pools are usually made in two ways.

For an artificial reservoir, a ready-made bowl made of cast propylene of the required depth and dimensions in plan, manufactured in a factory, is purchased. The owner is only required to prepare a flat area or pit (if the option is buried), and also landscape the surrounding area.

Factory-made bowls have limited dimensions to ensure their safe transportation. If the owner wishes to go beyond these dimensions, the pool can be independently welded from sheet polypropylene. At the same time, to ensure stability from the bursting loads of the water column of a filled pool, you can use both a frame system and the soil walls of an open pit. Sheets of propylene are cut in accordance with the configuration of the pool and welded together using a construction hair dryer.

The advantages of polypropylene pools are that this material:

has a dense, water-impermeable structure;
resistant to aggressive atmospheric influences, including temperature changes;
neutral to the effects of solar ultraviolet radiation, not subject to fading and loss of original color;

is environmentally friendly and harmless to humans, does not release any harmful chemical compounds into the water that can cause allergies or poisoning;
has low heat transfer, allowing you to keep water heated for a long time without exchanging temperature with the surrounding space;
the flexibility and elasticity of polypropylene make it possible to form bowls of various configurations and shapes, including those with rounded edges and transitions of the walls into the bottom;
welds well using a heat gun, ensuring reliable sealing.

Made from concrete

Despite the relatively high cost and labor intensity of construction, artificial reservoirs made of monolithic reinforced concrete are the most effective for long-term use. These types of pools can be used for decades, requiring only minimal cosmetic repairs and, in rare cases, replacement of decorative trim.

The cladding is usually ceramic tiles, painted in different colors, allowing installation in the form of patterns or geometric shapes. Also, using tiles in the pool, you can distinguish special zones, the boundaries of which are clearly visible both on the surface and under water.

At the first stage, after preparing and planning the site, as well as laying out the axes of the site, they begin to open a pit using manual labor or special earth-moving machines.

The bottom of the pit is also subject to leveling and leveling. For this, ordinary quartz sand is used. Rolled waterproofing is laid on top of the sand cushion and filled with hot bitumen. Next, the slab is concreted, reinforcing it with a mesh of metal rods. The grade of concrete must be no lower than M300...M450 in the old marking or from B22.5 to B35 in the new classification.

After 10…14 days, vertical formwork is installed on the bottom and concreting of the bowl walls begins. The thickness of the walls of a pool buried 1.5 m into the ground can be from 25 to 30 cm. It is better to reinforce the walls with a vertical mesh installed closer to the edge facing the pit. This is due to the fact that the vertical parts of the artificial reservoir are subject to lateral stresses from the water pressure, and the working fittings must be located on the side opposite to the applied force.

After concreting the walls and setting the concrete, internal waterproofing of the resulting bowl is performed. To do this, roll materials reinforced with fiberglass are used, rolling them overlapping along the bottom and wrapping them on the walls. Melted bitumen or special cold-curing mastics are used as glue.

Another method is to apply several layers of a special thick composition based on artificial rubber. After polymerization, it turns into a seamless, durable rubber-like insert, up to 5 mm thick. When concreting, you must remember to install round foam plastic inserts with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the pipes in places where utilities are supplied.

Interruptions in concreting walls should not be allowed for more than 5 hours. In this case, the concrete will turn out to be layered with hairline cracks, which will compromise the waterproof properties and structural integrity of the pool.

The formwork can be inventory - plastic, metal, from special formwork plywood, or homemade - from wooden panels knocked together with your own hands.

To save money, you can use an unedged slab board as a formwork material.

Complex reinforcement elements - frames, meshes are made by knitting, when individual parts are tied together with soft knitting wire.

It is strictly not recommended to use electric arc and acetylene welding, since exposure to high temperatures reduces the tensile strength of reinforcing bars and weakens the load-bearing capacity of a reinforced concrete structure.

You can prepare concrete yourself using a concrete mixer installed directly on your summer cottage. But in order to prevent accidental errors with the proportions of the constituent ingredients, it is better to use purchased concrete delivered by special mixer trucks. An additional bonus will be that all responsibility for low-quality concrete (if this happens) will be borne by its seller or supplier.

After dismantling and dismantling the formwork, voids are formed between the concrete and the ground wall of the pit, which are called reverse sinuses. Up to the level of the ground surface, they are covered with sand in layers, watered with water and compacted. Next, a concrete blind area is installed along the perimeter of the pool walls to a width of at least 0.5 m.

In order to avoid accidental injuries, it is lined with ceramic tiles with an anti-slip coating.

In the process of final finishing and tiling the pool with ceramic tiles, it is better to use a special fine-mesh mesh, fiberglass-reinforced mesh. To increase the water resistance of the cladding, the seams between the tiles should be cut and rubbed with silicone mastic.

From cinder block

Cinder block was very often used in the restoration and construction of buildings in the 50s of the 20th century. Then it was completely replaced by silicate (white) brick, which became more widespread. Currently, this material has received a rebirth.

Cinder blocks are now most often used for the construction of secondary buildings - garages, warehouses, summer kitchens, fences. Artificial stones made from cinder concrete are sometimes better than brick for the following reasons:

one cinder block, due to its increased size, immediately replaces several bricks, so masonry made from it is simpler than brick;
the extensive internal voids of the cinder block improve its heat-shielding properties;
technologies for the amateur production of cinder blocks have been developed.

The experience of using cinder blocks for constructing swimming pools at the dacha has shown itself to be positive. The strength of the walls made of this material turned out to be sufficient to withstand the lateral pressure of the poured water.

It should be noted that the masonry should not be made with cement-lime mortar, traditionally used for brick and stone masonry, but with cement-sand mortar. For better adhesion (gluing) of the solution to cinder blocks, plasticizer additives must be added to the solution. These can be polyvinyl acetate emulsion (PVA), acrylic or styrene-based latexes.

Preparation work, excavation, as well as the installation of a horizontal slab - the bottom is carried out in the same way as it is prepared for a reinforced concrete monolithic pool. The walls are laid out to the required height with a thickness of half a cinder block, which is about 20 cm. Horizontal seams should be reinforced with a mesh of rods with a diameter of 6 mm.

Backfilling of the return sinuses should be done with a mixture of sand and crushed stone with very careful compaction.

If there are voids in them, one or more cinder concrete blocks under water pressure can be squeezed out of the vertical plane.

The leaked moisture will fall under the bottom and cause uneven subsidence of the soil at the base of the concrete slab with the formation of kinks and cracks in it. Such a pool will most likely be unsuitable for repair and will need to be disassembled and rebuilt.

After the construction of cinder block walls, the inner surface of the resulting bowl requires waterproofing and final finishing. Before using roll waterproofing, it is recommended to use deep penetration impregnation primer to further strengthen and protect cinder blocks and seams.

Other block materials are also used to make swimming pools, such as brick, concrete blocks, rubble and sawn natural stone. The laying of such materials is practically no different from the laying of cinder blocks.

When constructing such artificial reservoirs, it is not recommended to use silicate (white) bricks, as well as blocks or panels with gypsum binder. This is because they have poor weather resistance, especially when wet or saturated with water.

When operating an artificial reservoir made of cinder block, you need to carefully monitor the technical condition of its structure. If cracks appear, immediately take measures to eliminate them by deep jointing and filling them with silicone mastic. Sometimes cracks can be disguised as tile seams, so inspections and repairs must be carried out regularly and very carefully. Then the pool will be usable for many years. Which will bring a lot of joy to the owner of the dacha and his family members.

Having a swimming pool in your backyard is a pipe dream for many. It all comes down to serious financial costs, and this is not surprising, because building a swimming pool is a very labor-intensive and high-tech business. The issue price is often measured in several thousand USD. However, there is one option that many will find affordable.

This will be a completely homemade pool made of tent fabric measuring 4.5x2 meters and a side height of about 1 meter, assembled on a wooden frame. It is installed on site in one day by one person. The work planned is creative, extremely constructive and very interesting.

The cost of all materials will be about 5-6 thousand rubles. Well, is it possible for such and such money to deny yourself the pleasure of basking in cool, clean water at least every day, when there is sweltering summer heat outside, from which there is nowhere else to hide. And how happy the kids will be...

In addition, this is a decent supply of water heated by the sun, which is about 8 tons. I’ll tell you a secret, the pool was intended as a container for watering the garden.

We cook PVC

The basis for our pool will be PVC fabric; awnings for trucks, awnings, inflatable boats, etc. are made from it. This material has very serious strength, almost does not stretch and does not allow water to pass through at all. There are many companies offering awning fabric in a variety of colors and densities; you can also purchase all the necessary accessories from them and even order the production of a finished container according to your dimensions.

In our case, we will use a gray Belgian-made fabric 2.5 meters wide, with an average specific density of 650 g/m2. Please note that if the fabric has one of the whiter smooth sides, then for ease of maintenance it is advisable to turn it glossy towards the inside of the pool.

Absolute tightness and the highest strength of seams can only be achieved by hot air welding, although there are adhesive options. To do this, we need a special construction hair dryer with an operating temperature range from 20 to 700 degrees and a crevice nozzle

Soldering iron for PVC

Work with PVC cloth must be done on a flat, clean surface. It is advisable to have a spacious room at your disposal in which the finished product can easily fit. On a floor covered with fiberboard or chipboard sheets, it is convenient to cut and glue our container without fear of damaging the material.

Need a place to work

The operating temperature of welding is selected in accordance with the recommendations of the blade manufacturer. We lay the awning fabric with an overlap of 20-30 mm and heat it with a hot air gun until it melts slightly, avoiding burning. The softened material is pressed tightly by a rolling roller with a hard silicone or rubber roller.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the quality of the weld; the tightness of all connections will depend on it. If necessary, you can practice on scraps of film - work out the speed of movement, temperature and other operating parameters.

When the “trough” is ready, the film is folded 50-70 mm along the upper perimeter and boiled. Metal rings (eyelets) are mounted through this side, intended for tensioning and fastening products using cables and ropes. The rings consist of two parts, which are installed through pre-punched holes corresponding in diameter. The eyelets are installed at approximately 500 mm intervals using manual flaring or a special press.

Preparing the foundation

To install a non-buried frame pool, you will need a perfectly flat, stable base, so it is better to choose an appropriate location in order to avoid labor-intensive excavation work and large-scale soil leveling.

It is imperative to remove the top layer of soil and uproot all plants in a certain area. The soil must be clean, without solid protruding particles, pebbles, etc.

Preparing the site

Next, we make a leveling sand cushion with a layer of 50 to 100 mm. To do this, we install beacons from a CD profile according to the level and stretch the sand as a rule, obtaining a perfectly flat surface. This procedure will have to be repeated after installing the frame.

sand cushion

Assembling the frame

To build the frame, we will use pine beams with a section of 100x50 mm, unedged and semi-edged boards 25 mm thick. All lumber must be cleared of bark and treated with an antiseptic. Ideally, you need to use dry wood, in extreme cases “dried”, that is, dried.

First of all, we mark the corners of the building and be sure to check the rectangularity of the frame. To do this, measure the diagonals - they must be equal. If necessary, we make adjustments.

Next, using a shovel or garden hand auger, we prepare wells about 500 mm deep. We will install two posts on the long side, in addition to the corner ones, the spans will be approximately 1.4 m. There will be one intermediate post on the short sides.

The pillars are installed strictly vertically along one line; a cord and a building level will be indispensable here. The racks are placed in the wells, after which the free space is filled with small or medium crushed stone. All this backfill is thoroughly compacted.

The parts of the timber that will be in the ground must be carefully covered with bitumen waterproofing, especially the ends.

Waterproofing of posts

When the timber is installed and securely fixed, you can tie them with a board. A semi-edged board is placed along the top, at a height of about a meter from the ground, strictly horizontally. The lower railing of the fence can be done with a shank, the height is taken approximately 200 - 400 mm from the ground. The entire board is sewn onto the beam through the body using “black” self-tapping screws 45-50 mm long.

Upper harness

Intermediate posts need reliable spacers, since they will be subject to pressure from a large amount of water. To do this, from the top of these pillars, using braces from timber with a cross section of 50x50 mm, triangles are formed that stabilize the frame. This ensures resistance against forces acting from within.

Stabilizing struts

Once the posts are tied, you can trim them. It makes sense to leave outlets of some size, then in the future it will be convenient to knit auxiliary structures to them: a canopy, shelter or, for example, a ladder.

Making a staircase

We install an additional stand at a distance of 600 mm from the corner. We make two bowstrings from an unedged board, which are attached to the support platform from below, and screwed to the posts at the top and at the same time rest on the upper trim.

Attaching bowstrings

Every 250 mm along the level we mark the location of the steps and install support bars in these places.

We cut the treads from a wide shawl and install them in their places. There are four steps in total, and the top one is also attached to the frame, forming a platform at the very edge of the pool.

The staircase is ready

Installing PVC sheeting

Before installing a product welded from awning fabric, you need to level the sand backfill again.

Now we screw the sides of our pool strictly horizontally. As fasteners we use self-tapping screws with a press washer 35 mm long and additional large washers with a diameter larger than the holes in the eyelets. All this fastener must be galvanized.

Fasteners

The fabric must be stretched very well and pressed tightly with self-tapping screws. All this work should be done very carefully so as not to damage the PVC fabric.

Stretch the fabric

Conclusion

Such a simple pool can be erected by one person in 12 hours, including PVC welding.

This is what happened

Its cost turns out to be more than affordable:

As a result, we received a multifunctional, inexpensive outdoor pool, which can be improved indefinitely, using all modern devices and systems characteristic of the professional construction of structures for such purposes. Some simple useful options include a fitting for draining water, a shelter, and a ladder to exit the pool.

It should be noted that our design is not only prefabricated, but also collapsible, which makes it possible to change its location without any problems. And the PVC base can be easily dismantled in a few minutes by unscrewing three dozen screws and stored for winter storage.

Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru

Every summer resident dreams of the early arrival of summer and imagines himself on vacation on sunny, hot days. In order to refresh yourself comfortably in cool water on vacation, you need to take care in advance about building or purchasing a bathhouse. Many owners refuse this idea, considering it too costly and time-consuming. In fact, any novice builder can make a small swimming pool at the dacha with his own hands. You just need to study different manufacturing methods, choose the appropriate option and follow the instructions step by step.

What available materials can be used to build a country pool?

You can, of course, buy one ready-made from expensive materials and invite a team of installation specialists, but often a modest budget does not allow for large-scale construction. Many summer residents give up, and the pond remains a pipe dream for them. But a thrifty owner will definitely find available and inexpensive materials and independently make a durable and beautiful pool that will last for many years and will become a real decoration of the site.

As you walk around your property, don't miss the following useful materials and things:

How to make a swimming pool at your dacha with your own hands - step-by-step instructions with photos

It is very important to choose a suitable location on the site to install the pool.

The choice of location has been made, now you need to draw a sketch with dimensions and mark the dimensions of the structure with pegs in place, and prepare the necessary tools.

For any type of pool, it is necessary to make a platform so that the bowl stands level and firmly all season.

Stages of foundation preparation:

Remove the top loose layer of soil with grass, eliminate potholes, uneven areas, remove stones, debris, and uproot protruding roots. If you decide to deepen the bowl, then dig a pit with a reserve of space for the outer lining of the sides.
Level the surface strictly horizontally, pour a small layer of crushed stone, and compact it thoroughly.
If possible, cover with geotextile, which will protect the pool from gnawing by insects and weeds from growing under it, and will also strengthen and level the base.
Pour a sand cushion 10 cm thick, lay insulation or a special polypropylene substrate under the bottom.

Making a pool from pallets

This structure can be built in less than a day and will cost very little.

For work you will need the following tools and materials:

old wooden pallets, at least 9 pieces, depending on the size of the structure. They are made in standard dimensions 80x120 cm;
level;
roulette;
pegs and cord for marking;
jigsaw;
planer for processing boards;
boards;
nails;
hammer;
screwdriver;
screws,
tie straps for fastening pallets into a single frame;
film for lining the inside of the bowl;
construction stapler;
siding or finishing boards;
felt;
scotch;
antiseptic impregnation;
paint and varnish.

Installation steps:

Prepare the site or dig a pit if you want to deepen the pool. Line it with polystyrene foam or other insulation to help the water warm up faster. Place a tarpaulin or mat on top.
Treat all wooden elements with antiseptic and antifungal impregnation to prevent rotting and destruction of the wood.
Lay out the substrate on the site and begin to mount the pallets sequentially
Place the pallets vertically in a circular shape, with the boarding facing inwards, and knock them together using boards at the top, bottom and middle to form a single frame structure. Reinforce it with tightening straps, clamps or other available materials.
For reliability, secure the pallet structure using boards and special belts.
Sheathe the inside of the structure with siding, cover it with boards, fill it with sand, and line the inside with waterproofing film.
Prepare the inside of the pool
Then lay felt or old blankets and towels on the bottom and sides for softness, secure them with tape or a construction stapler.
Lay out old blankets and towels for softness.
Cover the top of the sides and bottom of the pool with a finishing layer of film and straighten it. Blue material will look great. Nail the edges from the boards on top, securing and removing all protruding edges and edges. Now you can draw water and check the bowl for leaks.
Lay a film in the pool and cover the outside with finishing material

Tire pool

First you need to find a larger tire, for example, a BelAZ tire has a diameter of more than 300 cm and a width of more than 95 cm, and prepare the necessary tools and building materials:

hacksaw or sharp knife;
level;
bag of cement M-300;
water;
sand;
crushed stone;
liquid soap;
paint and any decorative elements;
container for mixing the solution, drill with mixer attachment;
shovel.

Stages of work:

The properties of rubber will allow you to enjoy such a work for many years without fear of leaks and destruction.

Film pool

This method is the fastest - it allows you to create a budget version of a bathhouse in two hours, which can be installed right in the garden. It should be noted that such an express bowl will serve until the first puncture of the film.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions:

If necessary, such a reservoir is quickly removed until the next hot season.

Swimming pool made of plastic pipes

There are ready-made prefabricated models of swimming pools on sale, the frame of which is made of PVC pipes, and the bowl is made of thick soft material or also of plastic. This design can be made on your own from pipes left over from repairs or purchased. They are inexpensive and are sold at any hardware store.

To work you will need:

PVC fabric, which does not allow water to pass through and is used for making awnings and inflatable boats, it is very durable and is sold in various densities, an excellent solution for a homemade pool;
shovel;
sand;
crushed stone;
roulette;
level;
marker;
an iron for soldering pipes or a construction hair dryer with a special nozzle for welding film;
insulation;
geotextiles.

Assembly takes place in several stages:

The bathhouse is usually small or medium in size; it can be disassembled in the fall and hidden in the closet until next summer.

Rules of care

In order for a homemade pool to last for several years, it needs proper care.

Having your own pool on your property is not a luxury item; it is quite affordable for an ordinary summer resident and can be made independently without significant financial costs. Thanks to the use of simple designs and inexpensive materials at hand, as well as simple rules for care and water purification, the pool will become a decoration of the dacha and will serve for a comfortable stay for more than one season.

A swimming pool on a country plot or dacha has ceased to be a curiosity. They install it step by step and thoroughly on their own or invite craftsmen. If you want to make a personal pond with your own hands, arm yourself with instructions and detailed photos.

In general, all types of pools that can be installed on a summer cottage are conventionally divided into:

frame;
foundation pits

The first ones are good because they are removed for the winter, and can also change their location every season. They are located completely or partially on the surface of the earth. Such frames are expensive, although some owners manage to make them with their own hands. Pit pools require a lot of work as they require digging a hole.

Some examples of ponds for summer cottages:

inflatable pool - similar to a frame one, easy to install and inexpensive, but has a short service life;
fiberglass - looks like a monolithic bowl, the installation of which requires digging a pit. Transportation causes certain inconvenience due to the dimensions of the structure;

Plastic pool

plastic – durable and lightweight. Its structure resembles fiberglass, which is why it has difficulties in delivery and installation;
concrete is a suitable option for those who are planning to install a high-quality pool on a suburban area. It can be made from individual blocks or as a monolithic structure. Difficult to install, but definitely reliable and durable.

Attention! If installed incorrectly, a concrete pit pond may leak water or fill poorly. To prevent this from happening, you need to lay all the pipes correctly and take care of high-quality waterproofing.

Main stages of construction: digging a pit, insulation, pool filter

Instructions for installing a concrete pool:

Choosing a location. It is good if it is in an open, sunny area, away from trees: their roots can destroy the bowl, and the foliage will become a constant source of debris.
Determination of sizes. The optimal depth for a pond in which adults will swim is from 1.5 m. In this case, the waterproofing layer must be taken into account. The length and width can vary and be, for example, 4x4 m or 4x5 m.

Pool pit

Calculation of the thickness of the walls and bottom, which depends on the depth of the reservoir, the level of groundwater and soil quality.
Design of a drainage system, location of communications, steps and lighting.
Marking boundaries. To do this, just drive in pegs at the site of the future reservoir.
Excavation work. You can dig a pit manually if the pool is small, but it is better to use special equipment. The hole should be wider and deeper than the project suggests. For example, the walls need to be increased by 04.-0.5 m.

Advice. To prevent the soil from crumbling, dig a pit taking into account the slope of the walls towards the center. Provide a place for drainage, as well as the possibility of draining water, for which the bottom should have a slope towards the drainage system.

Bottom leveling and waterproofing. You need to pour a mixture of sand and gravel in a layer of 0.3 m and compact it tightly. Then apply roofing material in 2-3 layers, overlapping the walls by 15-20 cm. Bitumen or liquid rubber are also suitable.
Installation of formwork along the edges of the pool. For it, you can take boards or plywood, which will allow you to make a pool of any shape. Before starting work, you need to carefully take care of the drainage system.
Reinforcement of the walls of the future reservoir with rods with a diameter of 0.8-1.4 mm.

Interior decoration of the pool bowl

Pouring concrete into the space between the formwork and the ground.
Removing the formwork after the concrete mixture has hardened and ironing the walls - treating them with cement and grouting with water. This will add strength to the structure.
Reinforcement and filling of the pool bottom. Installation of metal stairs.
Decorating the surface of the bowl with PVC film, mosaic or tiles.

Advice. You can first reinforce and fill the bottom with concrete, and then the walls. If you plan to descend into the pool along concrete steps, then the formwork for them needs to be prepared separately, after the bowl is ready.

To build a pool from individual concrete blocks you need:

Dig a pit, level its bottom and fill it with concrete.
Lay walls of blocks, reinforcing every 3rd row.
Build a staircase into one of the walls.
Waterproof and decorate the pool bowl.

A polypropylene pond can be equipped in two ways:

buy a ready-made bowl and install it;
purchase a sheet of polypropylene and make a container of the desired shape and size from it.

Construction of a concrete pool

In any case, the installation of such a pool consists of the following steps:

Digging a hole whose dimensions exceed the size of the bowl.
Waterproofing the bottom and filling it with concrete.
Installation of the bowl.
Installation of drain and nozzles for water supply.
Insulation of pool edges and pipes.
Connecting communications and pouring concrete.

Attention! To make the walls even, you need to make formwork inside the bowl and pour concrete in stages, to a height of 0.3-0.35 cm per day.

Any pool must be equipped with a filter, otherwise the water will soon become dirty and unsuitable for swimming. You need to pass it through a cleaning device using a pump 2-3 times a day, even if no one has swum in the pond. Today there are 3 main types of filter units:

sand ones are quite voluminous and are used mainly in public swimming pools. They look like a container filled with sand, where gravel, silver sand, etc. can be added;

Choose the right pool filter

cartridge - purify water using propylene membranes. They are small in size and can be installed outside the reservoir itself. Clogged cartridges need to be changed frequently;
Diatomaceous earth filters are the most expensive filters, consisting of several cartridges. Water is purified from most microbes using diatomite soil with silicon dioxide.

Advice. The main criterion for choosing a filter is performance (volume of water passed through). It is indicated by the manufacturer.

Pool skimmer: purpose, types

Like a filter, a skimmer purifies water from bacteria, but only processes the top layer of the surface. It also dampens waves when several people are swimming. The skimmer looks like a metal or plastic tank with a water intake pipe. It is equipped with a filter for deep cleaning of debris, insects, and leaves.

The skimmer can be:

hinged - often used for frame or inflatable pools;
built-in - used during the installation of a pit reservoir.

Pool skimmer

Typically, manufacturers include a drawing with the device, according to which the skimmer can be assembled. It must be installed at the stage of pouring the walls with concrete. It is necessary to provide boxes for openings. A plywood shield is prepared under the skimmer, which is then installed into the pool bowl together with the attached device.

Advice. One skimmer cleans 25 sq. m of water. If the volume of the pool is larger, you will need several devices.

As you can see, setting up a pool is quite a troublesome task. However, by studying the instructions and selecting the necessary materials, you will be able to cope with this task.

Ideas for building a swimming pool at the dacha: video

To paraphrase the classic, we can say that installing a swimming pool in a house, on a personal plot or in a country house is not a luxury, it is a necessity.

The construction of private swimming pools on an individual plot has become standard, like the construction of or.

The only difference is in the design and scale: a small pool in a bathhouse, a decorative pool in the yard as part of a landscape design composition, or a structure of large size and volume - indoor and outdoor swimming pools, which are located on the street, with all the accompanying fixtures and accessories.

Briefly about the main thing - how to get a swimming pool

You can get what you want in two ways:

First, buy a ready-made pool.

But before purchasing, please consider the following:

It costs expensive;

It is impossible to buy a concrete pool ready-made. This means you will have to pay for the project, for materials and for labor. Also, return VAT to the state;

Secondly, make the pool yourself.

This seems like a difficult task only at first glance. In fact, you already have everything you need: desire, opportunity and our instructions. This means that building a swimming pool should not cause any difficulties.

And physical fatigue will quickly pass when you splash around in the pool, which you made with your own hands.

Which pool is better to choose for a summer residence - types and types

Requires special knowledge for arrangement

It is cheap, convenient to carry and store, but is not very practical and has an extremely short service life.

Sold ready-made.

Purchasing such a structure (especially a large one) entails difficulties with delivery and installation, which cannot be done without special equipment (trailer, crane, excavator).

Plus, it involves digging a pit, which is also quite problematic.

Lightweight and durable. The design principle is similar to the previous version. Causes difficulties during transportation and installation.

The best and most justified option of all of the above.

This pool is ideal for a summer house or country house, where you will use it seasonally.

It can be made from concrete blocks, but it is better to pour a monolithic one. Despite the fact that this is the most complex and expensive design, its reliability and durability are beyond doubt.

Disadvantages of a concrete pool and how to eliminate them

problems with the water supply system. As a rule, they appear as a result of errors during their laying and installation of pipeline systems. If the work is carried out correctly, no difficulties arise;

Possible water leakage. This significant problem can be eliminated with the help of several layers of good waterproofing, the use of high-quality concrete and compliance with all rules for their installation;

peeling of ceramic tiles or mosaics. Eliminated by using high-quality special-purpose glue;

spread of fungus.

The appearance of fungus can be easily eliminated by regular cleaning and treating the surface of the bowl with special disinfection solutions.

Regular care and implementation of the above actions is the prevention of fungus formation.

Permission to build a swimming pool

In fact, an outdoor pool in a yard or plot can be built without approval from Rostechnadzor.

According to Article 51 (clause 17) of the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation, auxiliary use facilities do not require a documentary permit for construction. But there are some nuances here, it all depends on the parameters of the structure, if it is a small decorative or children’s pool, then no questions asked, but if it is a permanent building for swimming, i.e. sufficient depth, length and width, then it is better to draw up documents.

If the pool is not registered in the BTI, accordingly, it will not be on the certificate of ownership, and it will not be included in the technical passport. In the future it will be possible to legalize it, but it will cost more than registering it right away.

Building a concrete pool with your own hands - instructions

Installation work - construction of a concrete bowl for a swimming pool

Preparing the site

To do this, standard procedures are followed: clear the area of bushes and trees, and also cut off branches that may hang over the pool. Material from the site

Excavation work - digging a pit for a swimming pool

Of course, digging a pit can be done without the use of special equipment. But only if you have a small and shallow pool, you have a lot of time, effort and help.

As a rule, the cost of renting an excavator and digging services will be approximately the same, the difference is in time.

Construction of a pit for a swimming pool

increase the dimensions of the pit. They should be larger than the size of the future bowl. This is done in order to place technical equipment there and arrange a cushion under the concrete. And also for the construction of formwork.

presence of an angle. When digging walls, make sure that there is an angle of their deviation relative to the vertical. This method will prevent soil from falling into an already dug pit.

the presence of drainage systems. To ensure that the water that splashes out of the pool does not turn into puddles and does not destroy the landscape design, it is necessary to provide a place for its drainage.

First of all, it is necessary to lay all hydraulic communications.

provide for the possibility of draining water.

To drain, the bottom of the pool is sloped at 5-7% (2-3 cm of slope per 1 meter of bottom), which should be directed towards the drain hole.

Arrangement of the pillow

(concrete footing)

A gravel-sand cushion is needed to ensure better pouring of concrete. Usually it is a mixture of sand and crushed stone, which compacts well. Cushion height 300-350 mm.

Bottom waterproofing

The more options for possible leakage we take into account and prevent, the longer the service life of the concrete pool will be.

It will come in handy.
For an oval pool, reinforcement no thicker than 10 mm is used. This is due to the fact that reinforcement of this diameter is sold in coils. And, therefore, you can independently adjust its length. The spacing of the reinforcing tracks is 200x250 mm.

For a rectangular pool, arbitrary installation of reinforcement with piping in increments of 200x200 cm is allowed.

You need to put something under the reinforcement, for example, a brick, so that it remains in the middle of the concrete base during the process of pouring the concrete solution.

After installing the reinforced frame, fill the bottom of the pool with concrete solution. When pouring, try to avoid the presence of voids filled with air - this will reduce the quality of the surface.

We are waiting until the concrete dries and you can safely move on it.

The principle of reinforcement is identical to the previous one.

The number of tiers is determined by the height of the bowl.

Installation of formwork for a swimming pool

The material used for formwork is a wooden board (painted or oiled) or, more conveniently, plywood (preferably moisture-resistant or laminated). The use of plywood allows you to create bent shapes with a minimum of effort, which is important when building a pool of complex or oval shape.

In order to avoid deformation of the formwork under the pressure of the weight of the concrete solution, it is recommended to install stiffeners and spacers at a distance of 500 mm. A beam with a cross section of 50x50 is suitable for spacers.

Installing plywood formwork is more expensive, but the surface quality of the concrete bowl is almost perfect.

Note:
the sheathing for the steps is mounted separately.

Pouring the walls of the pool bowl with concrete

We wait until the concrete hardens. In this case, it is better to cover it with something to avoid destruction from exposure to temperature or moisture. And also periodically moisten with water.

If you do not plan to use a metal ladder, but want to make the procedure of immersion in water smooth, you need to provide concrete steps.

The formwork for the steps is installed when the entire concrete bowl for the pool is ready.

It is better to use plywood for the manufacture of formwork, because... it allows you to create bent shapes and does not require additional cleaning.

Construction of a concrete pool - video on pouring a concrete bowl

Finishing and lining of the pool bowl

The stage involves a set of activities:

Sanding pool walls

Grouting is done manually or using a special grinder.

Waterproofing is applied using special liquid solutions, between the layers of which reinforcing fabric (mesh) is laid.

When performing this type of work, special attention should be paid to:

seams between the bottom and walls of the structure;
seams that appeared when pouring concrete;
place of communications entry;
chips, gouges and cracks.

Finishing

Before doing this, it is important to check the quality of the waterproofing. To do this, you need to fill the pool with water. Measure the water level. Then wait 10-12 days. And measure the water level again. Changes in this parameter are an alarming sign. This means that the waterproofing was done poorly and there is a leak somewhere.

The amount by which these two indicators differ can say a lot. For example, a slight discrepancy would indicate that the water could simply evaporate under the influence of heat.

The following materials are usually used for finishing:

facing tiles;

mosaic;

PVC film (the cheapest option).

The choice of finishing material is influenced by factors such as:

Easy to care for;
- availability;
- ease of installation;
- price;
- possibility of replacement;
- appearance.