Building summer kitchen. How to build a summer kitchen on the plot with your own hands. Summer kitchen in the country - from what material to build

The happy owners of country sites have an excellent opportunity not only to plant potatoes, but also enjoy the rest in nature, away from the city bustle. Someone does not think of his holiday without a noisy company of friends with a kebab or barbecue in addition, someone more pleasant to spend time in silence or for a book. The arrangement of the recreation area in the country depends on, first of all, from the destination that it will perform, and on the size of the site itself.

The standard portion of 6 acres significantly limits fantasy. Spacious gazebo or complex architectural forms here not to build.

But we will try to create a multifunctional design in combination with summer kitchen. In this article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen with your own hands.

Tools for the construction of summer kitchens at the cottage

• Woodworking machine of decent power. A dry planed tree is three times more expensive. If there is time, you can handle wood yourself, there is extra money - buy ready.
• The chain saw for the bar is better to use lightweight, electrical.
• Lobzik. The more powerful, the better.
• Shrovet
• Drill
• Ribbon grinding machine for edges processing.
• Electrolabanok.
• Disk manual saw
• Hacksaw
• Pussy

Summer Kitchen Construction Materials

• Bar 100 × 100
• 25 mm thick boards
• Worked oil
• Ruberoid
• Paint or Pinotex.
• Linoleum
• Nails
• Selfless
• Stapler and brackets

Preliminary calculations showed that the size of the construction of 3 × 4m will be quite enough to not occupy all the free space of the site.

The basis of our design will be a frame of timber100 × 100. This is the most optimal, inexpensive and reliable solution. Each element after cutting to the desired length should be welded on the machine and islagugan using a planer. Not only visible parts of the design are needed to process, but all other parts, abundantly impregnating them with spent oil.

Such a procedure is performed not by radia savings - oil protects wood from rotting, therefore, the design itself will serve not one season. The ends, the most vulnerable place, must be missed several times while the oil is absorbed. The oil itself is better to take relatively bright. Before starting work, try on a piece of wood to make sure the desired shade.

As a foundation, I used conventional blocks from the sandbetone. Under each block, you need to dig a small hole and fall asleep with sand. Around the blocks themselves also pour sand. It makes sense to do a solid pillow of the foundation.

The ends of the bar combine the easiest way - in the trip. To do this, we note 100 mm (after fugging a little less), we remove half the thickness, then we connect with nails. The joints from the inside necessarily fasten the corners on long screws. Corners should be large enough: you can buy special, with a rigid ribbon, or just cut into a baccoon of any available metal.

This method ensures sufficient strength and stability of the design. The frame can be calmly raise the corner if suddenly some part falls out due to the lack of a foundation. In the spring, light buildings often "walk", sometimes you have to align them.

If there is a desire to save - it is better to buy ordinary boards and strict yourself. The difference in the price is colossal. Day of work and boards in perfect form. The bottom side and ends are impregnate with the exhaust oil before laying, but the top of the boards - after the end of the work. To accelerate drying, you can dilute the oil with turpentine.

The framework itself is erected from the same bar. With the right calculations, it should be almost without waste, given the standard length - 6 meters (in reality is about 6.2 meters). Heights of 2 meters will also be enough if you calculate individually.

The roof I decided to complicate a little. Single on such a small design would look bad. The usual duct with a skate also looks not very beautiful. I had to tinker a little, but I did without a skate. As a coating, I decided to use metal tile.

Roof sharet. As a crate, I used 25 mm board, also outrageous on the machine. It is better to impregnate them in advance on Earth so that you don't do the head. The impregnation is necessary for the same reason for protection against rotting. In addition, the paint's treated boards falls much better, and it takes less. But I decided that I would not paint the ceiling. The structure of the tree and so looks quite decorative.

The next stage is the installation of the crate. First of all, an ordinary rubberoid is sprinkled on the roof, braziness, as it should be. It is advisable to immediately make waterproofing in case of rain. It is not so expensive, moreover, when installing, metal tiles are leaks in places where the self-tapping screw was screwed. Given the small thickness of the boards, the use of branded screws with gaskets did not become - the ends would stick out very not aesthetically.

Walls we are wearing the same boards. Initially, there were thoughts about the lining, but I had to abandon it for a number of reasons. As you know, it is much thinner, less durable, and the price is much larger. Under the lining need a more frequent frame, you will not screw the same shelves on it in the selected places, because during construction it is difficult to determine what and where it is necessary to post.

But the boards have its own minuses. The board, as it were not tightly nailed, with time he dries, crevices are formed. With a strong oblique rain, a little water flows inside. I solved this problem as follows: I chose a frame with a linoleum under the color of the tree and secured with a bracket and stapler.
It turned out quickly and conveniently. But such a procedure can be performed only next year. Initially, the boards are customized on the machine almost perfect.

Ultimately it turned out the following:

Paul It is desirable to miss the work in front of the winter. In the summer it is impossible to do this - it will dry too long, taking into account the turpidar. Inside the room such a way is not suitable - the smell stands for a long time, and evaporation is not very useful. But in the open air they are not felt at all! Further painting does not take much time, but the floor I decided to leave for the winter exactly in such a state, since the paint can radiate because of snow and rain.

So, our building is ready. Inside, a summer kitchen with a drain into the induced barrel, a few shelves for children's toys and even a computer. Behind the folding table during the holiday, more than 10 people are conveniently located. All under the roof, but at the same time - in the fresh air. Near the mangal not to leave far.

In such a cottage summer kitchen, you can have breakfast and dining up to late autumn, because you can sit at home in the city. And here, nature around, birds sing ...

In the warm season, especially during the preservation period, the presence of summer kitchen substantially facilitates the cooking process and makes it more pleasant. For construction, it is not necessary to hire specialists - all steps can be performed independently. If you correctly pick up materials, the summer kitchen will cost it too expensive, which is important for the economical owner.

Summer cuisines

Summer cuisines can have a closed and open design. Both species are widely used in the country and country areas. To decide on what kind of types to stop the choice, all the advantages and disadvantages of such buildings should be studied.

Kitchen closed type

This kitchen has windows, doors and roof, like a full-fledged house. There are options combined with a bath or summer shower, a cellar, a workshop, with a attached veranda for eating and recreation. Usually, for construction, lightweight materials choose and do not insulate the construction, so it is not used in winter. At the same time, there are kitchens from bricks and foam blocks, which are characterized by greater strength and can be insulated if necessary.

Advantages of closed structures:

• closed kitchen requires more materials, so it costs more;
• there will be additional calculations for the project;
• the construction process is more time-consuming and long.

This option is more suitable for country houses, where the owners live constantly. But in the country that is empty in winter, the construction of a closed kitchen is not always justified.

Open kitchens are built according to the principle: concrete or tiled base, reference poles around the perimeter, roof-canopy. Under the canopy, the oven, a kitchen table, shops. Sometimes the kitchen do without a canopy if they use it exclusively for cooking on vacation days. Building material for open kitchen most often serves a tree, brick, natural stone.

Summer kitchen - barbecue project

Benefits:

• it is impossible to use the room in the cold period;
• no protection against wind and insects;
• weak protection against rain and dampness;
• it is impossible to leave products.
• all furniture that will be there is needed to hide for the winter in closed dry rooms, otherwise it quickly rotates.

Where to build

The location of the kitchen is of great importance. Hozdvor, and cesspools must be as far as possible, but communication, on the contrary, closer. You will have to bring water into the kitchen, connect the electricity, so it is best to connect if the construction site is near the house. It is impossible to choose a place in the lowland, otherwise the floor will dance. The closed kitchen can be attached to the house, and open it is better to arrange in the garden or at the pond, away from the road.

Construction of open kitchen

The construction options for open kitchen are set, but the main stages are always the same: markup and preparation of the place, the foundation device, installation of supporting supports, installation of the roof and the internal arrangement of the room.

To work, you will need:

• level;
• shovel;
• pegs and twine;
• roulette; sand and crushed stone;
• cement mortar;
• pieces of fittings;
• bar 150x150 mm;
• circular Saw;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer and nails;
• metal squares;
• self-tapping screw;
• 25 mm thick boards;
• primer.

Step 1. Marking

The selected plot is cleaned from all over and remove the turf. They define one of the corners of the construction and drive into the ground peg, and then the width and the length of the area under the kitchen are measured. Each of the corners are beacon-pegs and stretch between them. Check the correctness of the markup on the diagonals - they must be the same length. After that, inside the markup, the soil is chosen at a depth of 15-20 cm, but rummage and tamper.

Step 2. Filling the foundation

The bottom of the pit is falling asleep with a smooth layer of sand, roll up, well condensed. If necessary, the communication pipes are paved along the bottom, rubble falls from above. The reinforcing mesh is placed in the corners of the site inserted metal rods with a height of 20 cm, installed on the perimeter formwork from the boards. The height of the formwork above the surface of the soil should be about 10 cm; With the help of a level on the inside of the formwork, the filling line is noted that the site turns out to be smooth. We knew and pour it into the formwork, focusing on the markup. Communication pipes are closed with plugs, otherwise the solution can get inside. The surface is resurrected by the rule, after which they leave the foundation until complete drying.

Also, the foundation for the kitchen can be barbed type using bricks. The markup is performed similar to the monolithic foundation, after which the square shape of the hole is digging up to 50 cm. The bottom of the holes falls asleep with sand and tampering, then the metal bar is inserted, around which brickwork produces. The height of the foundation columns is checked by the level. If necessary, the columns are aligned with an additional cement layer.

The bottom strapping from the bar will be attached to the reinforcement of the reinforcement, which is joined by the method "in the paw". The bar is placed on the rubberoid, pre-glued bitumen to each column. On the lower strapping, the lags of the roughing floor of the edged board are mounted.

Step 3. Installing supporting supports

In the lower ends of the bar drill holes for reinforcement bars protruding from the foundation. The front racks make 20 cm above the rear to make it easier to mount a canopy. Install bars at the corners of the site, set up the level, and then fix them to the base with metal plates on anchor bolts. Upon the upper edge of the pillar is connected by the strapping from the bar, and at an altitude of 70-80 cm from the floor, the horizontal jumpers are mounted.

Table. Roof slope depending on the coating

Roof material	Mass sq. m (without reason), kg	Approximate durability, years	The bias of the roof, hail.
Sheet black steel	3-5	20-25	16-30
Cink Steel	3,5-6	30-40	16-30
Ruberoid	4-13	13-15	4-27
Tile	40-50	60 or more	30-45
Asbestocent	14-20	40-45	27-50

Step 4. Mounting a canopy

To the upper strapping, processed by the primer boards on the width of the design every 50 cm. Internal joints are necessarily strengthened with metal coal, so that the canopy does not break with strong wind. On top of the boards, waterproofing material are filling, thin rails are stuffed and slate sheets or

Step 5. Paul

The most optimal solution will be tiled cladding. It is not afraid of moisture, it is easily cleaned by contaminants, easily endures the temperature differences. The wooden flooring in the open kitchen quickly comes in disrepair under the influence of atmospheric moisture, breathing from the Sun, damages insects, so requires regular care. So, take the tile, tile glue, the toothed spatula and begin the floor cladding. Put the tile from the angle: they apply a little solution to the back surface, applied to the floor and flatter.

In the photo - tile porcelain stoneware for the street

So that the seams were as even as possible, apply special plastic crosses that are inserted at the joints. The laying is constantly controlled by the level, otherwise the coating will be uneven. If installing or mangala is planned in the kitchen, the floor is not necessary under them. After completion of the seams, the seams are cleaned of dust and residues of the solution, and then rub in a special mixture.

Step 6. Kitchen arrangement

For a larger cozy, the space between the floor and horizontal jumpers can be seen by boards or close with wooden curled lattices, leaving a free doorway. Install the stove, benches and table, supply electricity and water. In conclusion, wooden surfaces are covered with mourn and varnish or stain protecting wood from environmental exposure.

Prices for various types of building boards

Building boards

Construction of closed kitchen

Closed kitchens are also very diverse, but the most comfortable and simple in the performance is a framework of a bar on a bar foundation. For the trim, it is recommended to use the wall paneling or OSB slab.

During the work, you will need:

• circular Saw;
• electrolovik;
• drill and screwdriver;
• building level;
• shovel;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• dry planed beam 100x100 mm;
• 25 mm thick boards;
• long cord and pegs for beacons;
• ruberoid;
• cement mortar;
• studies;
• testing;
• nails and selflessness;
• sand.

Step 1. Marking of the site

The selected area needs to be prepared: to challenge hills, remove high grass, stones, garbage. Now you need to determine where the facade line will be located, and put 2 beaches on it. The distance between the waists is equal to the length of the facade. Perpendicular to this line are measured from each beacon the length of the side walls and also put tags. Between the beacons stretch the cord, and in the resulting rectangle make measurements of diagonals. If they are equal, the markup is performed correctly. In the center of each side of the future cuisine and at the intersection of diagonals, it is also necessary to drive the pegs - these are labels for intermediate posts.

Step 2. Foundation Preparing

The shovel dig holes in places marked with a depth of 40 cm; The sizes of the pits should correspond to two laid shlaklocks. The walls and bottom of the holes are equalized, fall asleep with a layer of sand 10 cm and trambet. On the sand, 2 lower cloakes are placed on the sand, they are covered with a solution, the construction stud is inserted into the center so that it rises above the surface of the soil by about 25-30 cm. Then the second row of the slag block across the first, again the solution and the third row. Finished pillars must have the same height and place at one level.

Step 3. Installation of the bottom strapping

The lower strapping consists of two rows of timber bounded with each other. All the bars are abundantly wicked by spent oil, special attention is paid to cuts, and then dried. In the beams of the lower row, it is necessary to make holes for the heels, and in the top cut the grooves under the floor crossbar. The depth of the grooves corresponds to half the thickness of the bar, and the width is equal to the thickness of the crossbar.

From above on the poles put pieces of rubberoid, putting them straight on the studs. The lower bars are applied to the columns, the arrangement of the stud, drill the openings of the corresponding diameter. Next laid them on the foundation, the studs in the holes are tightened and tightened nuts. End of the studs should not perform above the surface of the bar, on the contrary, better when they are slightly recessed into the tree. Check the strapping by the level throughout the perimeter to avoid distortion. Now you need to put the top row of beams, nail them, insert the bars of floor overlap into the grooves. For greater reliability, the inner joints better strengthen with metal plates with screws.

Step 4. Summer Kitchen - Conduct

Such a summer kitchen is distinguished by an excellent appearance, eco-friendly and well maintains heat indoors. However, it is extremely important to treat the material with flame-proof impregnation to eliminate the possibility of damage to wood insects.

It is worth remembering that the log house will give a shrinkage for several years, so it is not recommended to sneak the walls of summer kitchen.

So that inside the walls of the wall were smooth, each log over the entire length is reheated by a planer or a grinder. At the ends of the logs, the grooves for docking (method "in the paw") are cut down. This method is not chosen by chance. First, the logs will be used without a residue, secondly, even if the angular connection will have a small slot, then this will not affect the functionality and convenience of summer kitchen.

To build a mortgage crown, put two logs opposite each other. They are perpendicular to lay two more. This square is adjusted for a single plane so that it is clearly horizontally lay down on the lower strapping of the future summer kitchen. Next, markup, cutting down and laying the following logs, between which we deposit the insulation, for example, moss or felt.

Operactions under the door and windows of summer kitchens will be cut down in the future. The glass windows themselves and the entrance door along with the components will be installed after the completion of the roof mounting process. We bring to your attention a photo report for the construction of summer kitchen 7x3 m.

Video - Cutting "in the paw"

Step 5. Roof mounting

From the board, the 150x50 mm cross section is knocked down farms for the roof, strengthen them inside with spacers and mount to the upper strapping. Ends should be per perimeter of walls by 10-15 cm. The distance between the farms is approximately 1.5 m. The fastening of the roof elements to the strapping is performed using metal plates and bolts. After installing the rafter, the horse is stuffed along the farms, and then we are cutting the roof frame. Foreckers, slate or other roofing material are laid on the crate.

The roof is covered with Ondulin


How incorrectly installed windows

Summer kitchen 7x3 m	Project
Kitchen height	Height from floor to ceiling: 2.15 m. (+ -5 cm). Skate height: 1.5 m. (+ -5 cm)
	Supported blocks (one table size 400x400x4000 mm. It consists of four cement blocks with a size of 200x200x400, interconnected by a sandy cement mixture).
Base strapping	Unbreakable timing with a cross section of 100x150mm. The strapping laid in 1 row on the edge.
File lags	Unstroited timber 40x150 mm. With a step of laying 700 mm.
Log	Profiled timing segment 90x140 mm, natural humidity
Build Srub	The log house is assembled on metal brazen (nails 200 mm).
Assembling corners of a sruba	Build an angle in "in the warm corner"
Interventonian insulation	Between the crowns ladded linen
Partitions	Space Bar 90x140 natural humidity.
Floor	Paul double: black floor: cutting board 20 mm.; Clean gender: pinned floor board 36 mm. (chamber drying). It is insulated with mineral wool "Knauf" 50 mm., Ondutis isolation in 2 layers.
Ceiling beams	Unstroked Bar 40x100 mm. With a step of laying 700 mm.
Ceiling	The ceiling is fed by clapboard coniferous rocks (chamber drying). The ceiling is insulated with a mineral wool "Knauf" 50 mm., ONDUTIS isolation.
Stropil design	Bar 40x100 mm. with laying step 1000 mm.
Roof lamp	The lamp is performed from a cutting board of 20 mm. (through the board).
Terrace
	According to the kitchen project - double.
Frontons	Cover with clapboard conifers (chamber drying). Ventilation grilles are installed in the frontones of the kitchen (condensate prevents formation).
Covenate and eaves (skes of roofs)	Sew on clapboard coniferous rocks (chamber drying). Switch width: 350 - 450 mm (4 lining).
Roofing material	Ondulin, color to choose from: red, brown, green.
Window	Wooden with double glazing are installed according to the project. The size of the window blocks is 1x1.2 m. Pocks are installed in the openings (roasters).
Doors	Pilencated. Pocks are installed at the opening bars (roasters).
Finishing of the room	All corners and joints in the kitchen are closed with a plinth; Window, doorways are applied by a platband.
Terrace	The reference pillars with compensation elevators (jacks) under shrinkage are installed. The trim of the terrace: railing - carved, balusters - accurate. The entrance is installed steps.

Step 6. Kitchen arrangement

When the main processes are made, it follows close to the internal arrangement of the kitchen. The walls can be sewn or, because the frame-linked frame looks not very aesthetic. Then they install the furnace, sink, plug in electricity and water, arrange kitchen furniture. On this construction of a closed kitchen can be considered complete.

Prices for plasterboard and sheet materials

Plasterboard and leafy materials

Video - Summer kitchen with your own hands

Closed kitchen at the cottage (photo)

Also, if it is not entirely clear how to build a summer kitchen with your own hands, the video proposed on this page can be used as a step-by-step instruction.

The construction of summer kitchen of any type is carried out in accordance with a specific technology. Any construction with your own hands is painstaking work, requiring time and strength. This is especially true of capital buildings with a complex structure of the foundation, walls, roofs, with the installation of a brick oven and chimney. But if you follow all the technical requirements and comply with the sequence of work, even a novice master can well cope with this work. It is better to start with the most simple version of the summer kitchen, such as island or frame, especially if you have to work alone.

Before building a summer kitchen in the country, you need to choose the development option and collect the necessary materials. A sample of a modern kitchen device at the cottage, radically different from traditional houses located apart from other buildings in the country. For such a kitchen, only a ready-made area is needed, on which you can position the kitchen "Island".

The arrangement of this corner of nature will take a maximum of a week, so this option especially likes young people.

In addition, such a kitchen can be easily located near the pool, an open home theater or terrace with comfortable chairs or swings.

As an example, the most common variant of the waterproof Kitchen "Island" on a wooden framework, successfully combining relative ease of work, small financial costs and at the same time allowing the durability of the design.

For construction, the following materials will be required:

• bar wooden 2x4 cm;
• plywood sheet 3/4 inches thick;
• building felt (for isolation of a wooden frame);
• plaster grid;
• plaster mortar for external work;
• sealant for outdoor work;
• metal legs;
• artificial decorative stone made of light concrete for finishing works.

The construction of an island summer kitchen includes several stages.

Previously, it is necessary to draw the frame plan and the entire design, based on the scheme. In the plan, you must specify all the sizes and parameters of the design details. Then, according to the planned plan, it is necessary to cut the bar and collect the frame, connecting the bars among themselves 2.5 inches long screws. At the junctions of BRUSIV, it is necessary to make cuts with a height and a depth of 1.5 inches. It will be more convenient to build a frame if each kitchen "island" module is collected separately, and then consistently copold together with the same screws. For greater strength, the design is recommended from the bottom of the middle part of the frame to fasten an additional timber. Then you can scout the metal legs to the frame.

The next stage is the trimming of the frame plywood. Plywood sheets need to be uncalled in places of connection and on the bar, and put the sealant on the plywood, to impose sheets of plywood on the frame and fasten with 2-inch screws.

At the same stage, it is necessary to cut down and adjust the inner shelves and doors. After that, all removable parts need to be removed and start finishing the base.

When building a frame design, a lower arrangement of the grill should be provided - its lattice should be at the main table top of the concrete slab.

The covering of construction felt and the imposition of a plaster grid is the next stage.

Initially, the wooden frame must be saved by construction felt, while on the joints of the sheets of the material should be overlapped by about 5 cm. It is necessary in order to eliminate water leaks to a wooden basis. Next, with the help of roofing nails, the dranco from the plaster grid under the plaster should be followed to match the direction of the pattern. At the junction joints, the grid must also overlap each other about 5 cm. Speakers for the framework of the grid parts must be cut off. It is important that the duranka does not save anywhere, and, if necessary, the grid will need to additionally secure with nails.

At this stage, the Kitchen "Island" can be installed directly at the selected place or not far from it. Otherwise, due to the fact that the cladding will increase the weight of the structure, it will be quite difficult to transfer it to a large distance. Watching should be performed in two receptions. For external work it is easier to do not make a plaster mix yourself, but to buy ready. It must be strictly on the instructions to dilute with water, and then apply the composition on the grid, carefully following the plaster filled all the bases of the base.

The layer of plaster should not be too thick - it is desirable that the drank drawing beeps through the first layer. After about an hour, when this applied layer is grabbing, you can apply the second layer of plaster for the subsequent cladding of the stone. Plastering should be applied by a special trowel with jar of 0.5 inches. It is necessary to work slowly, smoothly moving it horizontally and keeping at an angle of 45 °.

Strips must be parallel, then it will be easier to lay a stone. The corrugated surface is required to ensure the best adhesion of the facing stone with the base. The second layer of plaster should be thicker than the first, and in order for it to grab, it will take about a day. After that, you can start facing.

A photo of how to build a summer kitchen with your own hands, will help you understand all the stages of the construction technology.

Look at how to build a summer kitchen in the photo, and proceed to the study of this process:

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How to make a summer kitchen in the country with your own hands (with photos)

Even before making a summer kitchen, it should be solved what equipment will be used - grill, cooktop, washing, wardrobes with dishes and storage kitchen utensils, compact refrigerator, oven or baking oven, gas or biocamine, bar counter etc. It is also necessary to bring all relying communications to the kitchen island - electricity, water supply and drain - and think about the lighting site. When using a balloon gas, you need to provide a place for a cylinder in advance. Only thinking all the details, you can correctly determine the dimensions of the summer kitchen and the design of the kitchen island. And to acquire all the necessary equipment, materials and tools, you need to make careful calculations.

Before making a summer kitchen with your own hands, you need to think over the inner and outdoor finish. Such cladding is required under the trim stone and tiles. If in the future it is planned to cover the surface of the kitchen island of paint, the second plaster layer should be aligned and make a grout under the subsequent putty and painting. But in general, the finish is recommended to do in accordance with the decoration of the country house, i.e., use the same cladding or decorative plaster as for the main building. For example, if the house is brick, and in the construction of the kitchen, you can use a brick if the stone is a stone, if a wooden is a row of kitchen-island with a tree, etc. Facing the frame can be combined with a tile of a kitchen terrace or other elements of the country decor - a fence, wall , stone reservoir, etc.

Before making a summer kitchen in the country, after drying the corrugated plaster layer, you can hang internal shelves and attach to the door body, and then place the boundaries for which the stone cladding should not be found. In the finishing of the kitchen "Island" it is better to use an artificial concrete stone, much easier than natural, but at the same time imitating natural samples. In addition, with artificial stone and work easier.

When laying the stone, it is necessary to ensure that the vertical seams of neighboring rows overlap, and select stone fragments in accordance with the tint, creating a single harmonious picture. Starting the facing should be with the angular elements and from the bottom row, laying out the ranks in a circle.

The building solution is applied to the opposite direction of the stone with a layer of about 2.5 cm and a small deepening is made using a handlayer. Then the stone must be carefully applied to the prepared surface and grip tightly, remove the surplus of the solution, speaking on the sides, and knock on the stone to make sure that the air gap is absent. If this is not done, the stone laying may be short-lived. Hearing when tapping a characteristic sound, talking about the presence of emptiness, it is better to be restrained - to remove the stone, re-apply the solution and tightly press the intended place.

On the basis of the considered basic version of the kitchen-island, you can do something unique, adding it with new elements or using other materials for construction and adapting the summer kitchen to your own needs.

Fingering too long or wide stones need to be processed using a diamond instrument, without forgetting to observe security measures - to use protective glasses while working and watching the hands.

For the final setting of the solution under stone, no less than a day is required, after which you can hang the doors, install a worktop, grill and washing.

For example, you can choose another material for the table top - the main thing is that its surface is moisture-resistant and resistant to low winter temperatures. Natural stone, porcelain stoneware "under the tree" can be used as building materials (if the house standing nearby, wooden), ceramic tiles for outdoor work or mosaic, composite material, lining. You can build a cuisine-island of a whole brick, and then implacate siding - artificial bricks - either not to be arranged at all. It can be limited to the fact that it is easy to plaster and paint, postponing more expensive cladding for the future, or use a metal frame instead of a wooden bar. Kitchen "Island" and a tabletop can be generally made of stainless steel, i.e. completely without facing. The variants are set, and in this case your own preferences also dominate.

As for the structure of the structure itself, it can also be supplemented with any elements - for example, combine the kitchen "Island" with a bar counter, create P-shaped and g-shaped designs or make a design with a closed or semicircular and so on.

Stay in the summer in the house, if you can spend time in the fresh air? Not the best idea. And cook or do twists - and worse. Much more pleasant and more useful to spend time under a canopy or in a light, blown up the construction, which many call the "summer kitchen". Summer cuisine with their own hands is built easily, especially open options.

Open summer kitchen: views and photos

Open - it's rather an open gazebo or veranda. Very good option for warm season. Not in all regions, even in the summer you can go on the street for a long time. Then make closed summer cuisine - this is a small house that can be built on any technology that seems to you most attractive.

Summer kitchen - an extension

Let's start with open areas. If it is assumed for the summer the main activity is transferred to fresh air, it will be more convenient for the summer kitchen to attach to the existing home. In this case, do. Most often, first make it open. The easiest way to make a wooden extension. In a very open version, this can be just a pillars that support the roof.

The easiest option is a few pillars supporting lightweight roofing kitchen with your own hands.

This option is very good for the southern regions, where most of the year on the street can be arranged for a long time. For more northern regions or if it is a house of permanent residence, usually the extension decide to make more closed. First make the railing, and then often think about something else to close the spans: I want to extend the "use period". As a result, an open summer kitchen becomes closed.

The most common material for this kind of attack is wood. It plastic, forgives many misses, which can be further corrected without parsing, therefore it is easy to work even without skills. It is also easy, because the foundation under the summer kitchen can be made lightweight - columnar or

The second most popular material is a brick or decorative stone. If there are "direct" hands and compliance with technology and with this material, lovers developers can work. For the construction of the house without experience it is not necessary, but folded the pillars and partitions under the summer kitchen you can try.

But since even a pillar of brick or stone weighs no longer under a hundred kilograms and more, the basis for it is required more solid. If we consider that it will take another load from the roof, you will have to make piles or piles, with a good bearing ability.

Removal on the side of the house - an outdoor terrace with a stove and mangal

If you are thinking about to then put brick walls, it is better to immediately fill a pile-ribbon foundation, and the tape is plugged below the drainage depth. If this option does not fit - the depth of the freezing is large or the soil does not allow, it is necessary to do a monolithic plate, or to refuse bricks, making them on another technology, at least the same tree or the summer kitchen built with your own hands, which knows All design features to the smallest detail, you can subsequently upgrade the construction.

Separately standing

Someone does not like kitchen smells that can fall into the house with an extension. Then a small building is erected at some distance from home. The presence of summer kitchens is an almost mandatory attribute of private houses in the southern regions. Before the air conditioner era, it was a real torture in the heat in the area: the high temperature "overboard", preheated walls, and even heat from the plate - the conditions of hell, and the rest of the premises are heated. Therefore, they did at least a small detached arbor houses, in which the cities put a gas stove and a cylinder with liquefied gas, in the villages folded a small stove. Some even prepared on "Kirogas" or preims.

Modern climatic equipment allows you to negate all these inconveniences, but separate summer cuisine still continue to build. They are often still used as a guest house - making them.

The cheapest option - the poles that support the roof. They can be wooden, brick or combined - consisting of a base of stone, and the top-sample of a bar. This is the optimal option in terms of operation: wood is protected from the effect of most precipitation, and at the same time the weight is not very large.

One of the light options

What makes the floor

Paul in such a kitchen can be boarded. It is easier to do, but many confuse that wood will be almost without protection. You can solve the problem in two ways. The first is to use effective protective impregnations - such as oils or wax for wood designed for external work. They do not create a shiny surface, but protect well and from moisture and from dirt. Use varnishes for summer kitchens is not the best idea. They start to burst and crack to update the old coating you need to remove completely, while the oils and wax require only thorough preliminary cleansing, after drying, you can apply a fresh layer.

This terrace is processed by Pinotex Terrace Oil

The second way is not to use wood, but a wood-polymer composite (DPK). These are boards that consist of a mixture of fibers of wood and polymers. They are in appearance and to the touch very much resemble wood. With the only difference that they almost do not change the size depending on the humidity, however, the temperature expansion is present. Such boards are called "decker" or "plaquene" depending on the profile of the board. There is also a "garden parquet". This coating made from the same material, only assembled in the shields, like parquet. They can simply be laid on the ground, without any preparation.

The terrace and the floor in the summer kitchen are made of DPK - wood-polymer composite

The advantages of the DPK include a long period of operation without changing the initial properties. It is calculated with dozens of years, but he changes greatly depending on the manufacturer. Minus is not the most democratic price. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the technology is relatively new, as long as the Russian producers of such products are not yet particularly mastered.

It is better to transfers the weather of the weather or a specialized tile, but the device of such a floor is not easy. If you simply put on the gravel-sandy benchmark, closing the tile in the autumn, in the cold the tiles can crack or jump. It is necessary to make a warmed monolithic slab, observing all the technology: with a sandy-gravel layer, insulation, reinforcement, filling of concrete. The dimensions of this slab are 50-60 cm more around the perimeter than the planned building. In general, costs and work are serious, although it is convenient to use.

One of the floor options - large concrete plates made of high brand concrete

After a while, when concrete gains strengths (the minimum must pass 2 weeks, and this is at an average temperature of + 20 ° C), the coating can be stacked. You can use the plate - sawn to the layers, you can - porcelain stonework, or frost-resistant tiles.

An easier option is to lay the platform with paving tiles. But this is an exclusively summer version. But - without on the foundation.

If summer cuisine is built in the country, it is probably the most optimal option. It turns out inexpensively and practical.

Closed summer kitchen

Those who want to have a all-season summer platform for gatherings or cooking, put more capital buildings. Most often it is built on the framework technology - quickly and relatively inexpensively, more expensive, but more capital - from a log or bar.

Option "Sander" - racks from a bar are covered with clapboard

In the case of a frame construction, everything is very simple: with a small step, racks from the bar are put (you can even smash the boards), then they are trimmed from two sides by any finishing material. What is your choice, at least a wood-wooden or plastic, a block chamois, any other material. Inside, it is often plywood inside for savings, DVP, GVL, OSP, or something like that. If desired, it can be insulated. The framework of the frame on the one hand is trimmed, the insulation is laid (usually mineral wool), the casing is mounted on the other side. You can insulate not only immediately, but after some time, it will only have to remove the trim on one side.

What does the "skeleton" of summer kitchens on framework technology look like

Another skeleton building is convenient that it can be given any form, and the foundation can be relatively light - depending on the soils - pile or tape. Such foundations are needed under wooden buildings - from a log or bar. Here all the rules are the same. It is important to find or order a project, but to collect - the case of technology.

Naturally, it is possible to build from any other materials - from foam blocks - to brick or even boot. The whole thing in the amount you are planning or can spend on this construction. It will still be inexpensive to build a foam concrete, aerated concrete, some building blocks, Samana. Clacoblock, like Samam, can be made independently, so the choice of material is only for you, and then everything is built in all the rules. Only with one deflection: insulation for summer kitchen or do not do completely, or make it minimal. Another moment - heating is usually absent, and this also needs to be taken into account and when choosing materials for construction, and for finishing.

Photo report construction of summer cuisine with an open veranda

Summer cuisine has been built with the ability to "sit in the air". Therefore, a variant was chosen with an open veranda. The basis of the house is collected from a bar 200 * 200 mm, internal seals - from 150 * 100 mm. Outwardly like the flaws, but it is hopelessly expensive, because the timber peredalized, to create a similar relief.

The foundation is made column. Since the construction is light, the soils are normal, the columns are dripped only by 60 cm.

The strapping was collected from a bar 200 * 200 mm. It was pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. The angles were connected as usual - they did the dress. Sitted to the metal U-shaped plates. The bar is not fastened, as it will still be a trunciation, so that the construction was able to "walk".

The racks were made from a bar of 200 * 200 mm, an internal filling of 150 * 100 mm.

The walls gathered pretty quickly and without problems: there is no other, just the required length of the pieces of timber is nailed to the racks. The roof is doubled, with a small slope angle. On the one hand, the removal of the rafter feet is more - to make a canopy from the veranda, which will be covered with oblique rain.

The ceiling liner is made of unedged board, which was then brought to mind on its machine.

Ceiling stitch - board

Summer Kitchen Design: Photo

After building a summer kitchen, another problem occurs: it is necessary to arrange it. The arrangement includes not only the choice of tables and chairs, it is necessary to somehow organize a working area, somewhere to store zerov for a furnace, which is often put here.

The arrangement in the summer cottage gives a mass of positive moments. First, cooking in the fresh air turns the routine process in a pleasant pastime. Secondly, for the period of massive billets of vegetable preservation, compotes and jams, you can get rid of evaporation and smells in a country house. And the third - if you have a summer kitchen with your own hands, you will not have to look for a place for evening gatherings from the relatives and weekend with friends.

Summer kitchen made of bricks with barbecue with your own hands

Special aroma and appetizing appearance of dishes cooked on b-B-QEvaluate adults and children. For the cottage you can buy a factory design that allows you to prepare food on the grill, however, a summer kitchen built out of bricks with a barbecue stove will be able to serve not only as equipment for frying meat and fish, but also become a central figure of the country's recreation area.

We present to your attention the bake barbecue E. Gudkov, which can be built with your own hands. It combines all the advantages of the grill and the hob with the burner. Taking advantage of the detailed instructions in which the drawings and order are given, add such a furnace personally will be completely simple.

Draft oven for summer cuisine. Photo

Construction of the foundation of summer kitchen

The design proposed for repetition has an impressive weight, so the arrangement of a serious reason for it is necessary. To build a tile foundation, you will need a concrete reinforced with a metal grid.

Materials and tools

Our facility is not so responsible to apply high-class and expensive building mixes, so there will be enough concrete M200 brand. For its preparation, you can use the following ratio of building materials:

• 1 cement grade 400;
• 4 h. - Crushed stone or large gravel (30 mm fraction);
• 2 h. - Large river sand.

Make sure that the impurity content in the sand does not exceed 10 parts from its volume, and in crushed it - a value of 2%.

The use of the proposed proportion will require the next consumption of building materials per 1 cu. m. Concrete:

• Cement M400 - 325 kg;
• Sand - 1.3 t
• Crushed stone - 1.3 t
• Water - 205 liters.

To strengthen the foundation, a grid frame of class A3 reinforcement will be required. Starting to the markup of the base, to the dimensions of the future furnace are added 20 cm per side. During the sizes of the structure 1.4 × 1 m, the foundation of 1.6 × 1.2 m.

Project of the foundation of summer kitchen. Photo

Getting Started to Pour the base, prepare:

• narrow, round and square tamping;
• scraper, smooth iron, sixrock;
• probe to remove air bubbles from the mixture;
• shovels for soil and mortar;
• celma;
• board for finishing surface alignment.

How to put concrete

In order to build a solid foundation, it is necessary to take into account features of the soil Location on. Water-saturated, swelling, peat and other specific soils will require additional strengthening before arranging the base for the furnace.

To store The foundation is enough to drive the pegs to the ground, check the diagonals and pull the cord. At the same time, the dimensions of the pits under the tile foundation must correspond to its size (in our case 1.6 × 1.2 m). Since the construction is designed to operate outdoors, the ground under its base will freeze and disappear. Therefore, in some cases, a sand pillow may be required to 1 m thick.

It will be right when arranging a sand pillow bottom and walls of the pit to protect geotextilewhich will prevent groundwater erosion. Tamping is performed in several techniques. For this every 10-15 cm, sand is being plucked, which is additionally shedding after sealing.

For waterproofing purposes and in order to avoid concrete leaks in the sand, two layers are placed on the prepared place ruberoid. Further on the contour of the pit every 0.5 m robbed racks for formwork boards and fasten them with slopes. Fasten and moisturize formwork.

Before filling concrete, install armatureFor which at an altitude of 20-30 mm from the bottom along the entire foundation surface, the grid is installed. Then, with the help of vertical jumpers at a distance of at least 20 mm from the top plane of the foundation plate, the second reinforcing belt is set.

Concrete is trying to fill and catch up at once. In this case, the monolith of construction will be ensured and a certain period of hardening concrete.

Mandatory condition for high-quality concreting is the maintenance of optimal humidity, so the foundation is covered breasant. After 3 - 4 hours after the fill on the surface of the base, the oven falls asleep or sand. Concrete is wetted with water for 1 - 2 weeks, while the foundation does not grab finally.

The formwork is removed only when the corners of the design will acquire sufficient strength. It is possible to start building a furnace not earlier than two weeks after concrete work.

Construction of Gudkov Barbecue

For the construction of the furnace housing will need chamotted refractory or red clay brick In the amount of 465 pcs. The refractory material is preferable, since it easily withstands elevated temperatures. If you decide to use the usual ceramic brick, then make sure that the material is exhausted. Cracks, emptiness, insufficient firing unacceptable. It is not suitable for a barbecue stove and silicate brick.

In addition, it is required to prepare the following details of the furnace:

• cooking plate with one comfortable size of 500 × 420 mm;
• lattice 500 × 420 mm for mangala;
• metal sheet 600 × 500 mm;
• door to remove soot 140 × 140 mm;
• the door for ponded 140 × 270 mm;
• door loading 270 × 250 mm;
• copyright 300 × 200 mm;
• corner metal with a length of the shelf 32 mm, 4 mm thick - 4 pcs. 500 mm and 6 pcs. 600 mm;
• steel wire OE2mm - 10 m;
• cord asbestos OE5 mm - 10 m.

Masonry solution

The brick during the construction of the furnace is laid on the clay-sandy solution using plastic varieties of red clay and coarse sand, sinking on the sieve. The ratio of materials is chosen, depending on the fatty clay:

• add to 1 h. Fatty clay - 2.5 h. Sand;
• for 1 hour. medium clay - 1.5 h. Sand;
• for skinny clay - 1: 1 ratio.

It is possible to determine the fat content of clay in the content of sand in it:

• from 2 to 4% - fat;
• up to 15% - average;
• from 30% - skinny.

To prepare the working mixture, the clay is soaked for 1 day, and then, gradually stirring, sand is added to it. For the preparation of the solution, you can use special high-temperature mixtures of factory manufacturer, which can be found in the trading network.

Corps of the furnace

Starting work on the furnace is best from the construction of temporary sowingunder which you can work in any weather. To avoid errors in the installation process, the building body can be laid dry.

Construction start with brick moisturizing. Red ceramic brick is lowered for one or two minutes into the water, and chamoten - rinsed from dust.

The laying of bricks is performed with the dressing of the seams in the Pollipich, observing the thickness of the seams from 3 to 5 mm (less importance for refractory material). It is important that the chips and cracks on the surface are not addressed inside the working chamber or chimney.

As it is stacking, you will need to install furnaces. To ensure the reliability of the design, the metal parts are fixed with a wire, which is close in the masonry. Since metal and ceramics are expanding during heating differently, be sure to make a heat gap 3 - 5 mm, which is later eliminated using asbestos cord.

Orders

After the level of the heat chamber is fully removed, the grille or metal is installed on the corners. comfortable slab.

Metal corners are used as a support and when arranged an arch. The chimney can be dimensions of 270 × 140 mm, 270 × 270 mm and 400 × 140 mm. To reduce the formation of the soot on the inner walls of the chimney, they are plastered.

To finish a barbecue furnace, plastering, pasting with tiles or tiles, as well as a simple seam exchange.

After the summer kitchen with a barbecue will be built, do not hurry to experience the oven for full force. To avoid cracks, the furnace must be hurried in small portions of firewood during the week.

Summer cuisine in the country of hand. Step-by-step instruction

The proposed design of the summer kitchen combines a hob, a small Russian oven, as well as work surfaces that provide additional convenience in the cooking process. Mounted under a canopy of boards or polycarbonate, an open kitchen will take on all the duties to prepare all sorts of dishes and orders in the summer.

Summer kitchen project. Photo

Basic materials that will be needed for construction:

• slag blocks;
• red or chammed brick;
• materials for finishing;
• formwork.

By choosing a place for future construction, proceed to the drawing up drawings and calculations of the number of materials. The step-by-step instruction presented below will help to systematize all the stages of the construction of summer kitchen.

Foundation for summer kitchen. Photo

Foundation building

Having a pit for the foundation with the help of pegs and cord, proceed to earthy work. Having reached the depth of the pit in 35 cm, its walls are strengthened with formwork boards, and the bottom fall asleep with a 5-centimeter gravel layer and compact.

Eat two-layer armopoyas Metal grid and vertical steel rods. It is monitors that the armature does not touch the boards, and after the fill it was protected by a layer of concrete with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

After filling, concrete is compactedvibroreke, covered with a film and leave for 2 weeks until a complete set.

Summer kitchen with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Laying housing

Stacking starts with an angle, constantly controlling the geometry of rows and angles with the help of a level and a plumb.

To make a shift of the rows to the Polkirpich, the laying of the second row starts turning onwards.

Having passed two rows, it was drawn up, mounted by the door to the front wall. In the overlap of the working space above the infancy, a grate grid is installed, and one row is above the door of the fiber chamber. The combustion zone itself is made low, one or two rows of bricks above the boot hole, otherwise the flame will not get to the plate with cloths.

The housing of the furnace is built to height, convenient for further operation.

Summer cuisine in the country of hand. Photo

After performing masonry, the seams are filled with a solution and smoothed the grater.

Installation of table top

Working surface arrangement starts with styling supporting rods from steel fittings. They are mounted formwork, which is poured with concrete.

After grapping the concrete, the tabletop is separated by a tumor, thoroughly aligning individual fragments and cracks between them. At the final stage of the walls of summer cuisine, they are plastered or stones with heat-resistant finishing materials.

Selection of the Summer Kitchen Furnace

Of course, on the summer kitchen, you can install an electric stove or gas stove, which runs from a cylinder with liquefied gas, however, truly delicious dishes are obtained in a real wood-burning furnace. In the carefully heated space of a miniature Russian stove, hot dishes can be prepared in the Kazanka or the oven surprisingly fragrant pie and pizza.

About how to put the oven on the summer kitchen, many articles are written. Our design uses the most simple scheme of the Russian oven. For its construction, a semicircular arch with a side channel is performed, which is taken into a common chimney.

Oven for summer kitchen with your own hands. Photo

How to make a furnace for summer kitchen. Photo

The external cladding of the wood focal can be made sandstone, carefully customizing the fragments of the finish to each other. After that, the seams are filled with a solution and smoothed with a spatula and grater.

Roof of summer kitchen

After the furnace and the work area are equipped, start the arrangement of the roof of the summer kitchen. To withstand the stylistics in which the proposed design with a wood-burning furnace is built, it is best to make a double roof.

The roof of the summer kitchen with their own hands. Photo

For this, the framework of a wooden bar is installed around the workspace with a size of at least 100 × 100 mm, after which they make overlap made of wooden boards, metal tiles or other materials.

Summer kitchen finishing design and options

Equipping the summer kitchen, I want to get not only the functionality and convenience of the open working area, but also a beautiful structure, aged in the style of other buildings and buildings of the country area. The kitchen, located near the house, can be placed on a large veranda adjacent to one of the inputs. A well-equipped barbecue area will get rid of the need to install a portable mangaal. Decorative plants and shrubs are planted around the summer kitchen. If there is a need to sharpen the facilities, then all sorts of arches and backups are used. Pergola, installed near the summer kitchen, will give the necessary shadow on hot days and create a secluded corner for leisurely conversations and gatherings with friends.

Summer kitchen. Photo

In the process of creating an optimal working area, the main thing is not to overdo the decor elements. It is important to understand that all the same main purpose of the summer kitchen is cooking, so if you want to cook on it every day, then one barn will not do. You will have to install an electric, gas or wood-burning furnace. It will be difficult and without other benefits of civilization, so the working area is complemented by the sink, all sorts of cabinets and shelves.