Install a box in the bathroom. Plastic ceiling and plastic box in the bathroom. Application of finished polymer products

Are you going to make repairs in the toilet and do not know what to do with plumbing pipes? Agree, the disguised pipeline looks far from aesthetic.

For this purpose, various tricks and materials are used. Often, specialists from the construction organization are invited to work. Especially when it is required to build a box for pipes in the toilet from plasterboard. If the budget is limited, and the pipes do not fit completely into the interior, then everything can be corrected independently, the easiest option.

This article we will talk about the ways to mask the pipeline. We will tell about what tools and materials for this purpose will be required. The material is accompanied by thematic photographs and videos that clearly demonstrate how the pipeline in the toilet can be masked with their own hands.

When the budget does not provide for repair costs, and the pipes in the toilet are annoying, you can do minimal spending. It is about decoking visible parts of the pipeline.

This method can be a real rescue when the head of the family, instead of repair, chooses other methods of leisure - for example, fishing or basketball with friends. Moreover, both a woman and a man can cope with decoration. The main thing is to be inspiration.

Off-lasting fantasy and free time on weekend will help turn the Cabinet of thoughtfulness to realistic jungle

Depending on preferences and mood, the pipeline can be masked for anything - turn into a tree, in the animal or decorate it with beautiful decorative elements.

Main types of decoration:

stick on top of pipes with a suitable pattern;
paint waterproof paint under the color of the walls in the toilet room;
portray a unique pattern or reproduction of birch trunk, oak bark or other material with paints;
use decorative stones, beads, chains, twine and other items used for needlework.

The easiest and convenient option is to paint with paint pipes, harmoniously combined in color with wall decoration. Or stick the film with the pattern.

Gallery of images

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (bookmark the foundation, construction of walls, roof design, etc.). Domestic construction work (laying internal communications, roughing and finishing). Hobbies: Mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The best way to disguise engineering communications in the plumbing room is to construct a box in a bathroom for pipes. I recently did repairs in the urban apartment and constructed there a similar design of plasterboard. It turned out a pretty simple and functional design.

Bathroom Features

Plumbing room is a room with a specific microclimate, which hosts common engineering communications - water supply and sewage.

On the tubes in the bathroom, the control devices (hot and cold water meters) and control (shock fittings) are also usually installed. And the engineering system itself requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of the compounds, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas and so on.

In this regard, the box for the bathroom must meet several important requirements:

Having a minimum place.Given the small area of \u200b\u200bthe sanitary room, the design needs to be made so that it does not take out free space. But at the same time, the sheathing and profiles must defend from the pipes at least 3 cm.
Provide free access to engineering systems.The box design should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, counters and cranes for their control or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but in extreme cases it is necessary to set a sufficient number of revision doors.
Be safe.
Harmonize with decorative trim of the bathroom.

You can call many more requirements, but these, in my opinion, you need to take into account necessarily.

Choosing a suitable material

Now we'll understand what to make a box. Most often I had to design it under pipes from plastic panels and drywall.

The plastic box is more suitable for the riser in the plumbing room, the walls and the ceiling of which are separated by similar material. Then the bathroom interior will look holistically and harmoniously.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, if you compare it with plastic panels, has more advantages that I listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Easy mounting	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed on a frame of galvanized profiles, so with their help you can construct the box of any shape and sizes. It does not need to have any special skills or use complex engineering equipment.
Small weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh a little, so there are no additional load on the structural elements of the building. And for their retention of fairly thin and light galvanized parts.
Flexibility	When wetting water and trimming on one side of the GLC, you can give a rounded shape, building a spectacular and unique box in the sanitary room, which will become a central design element.
Smooth surface	Plasterboard sheets have a perfectly smooth surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional alignment using beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of the box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, the tile is glued to GLC, but you can use both wallpapers, paint, and lining (plastic or wooden).
Foreign safety	The described material consists of frozen gypsum and thin sheets of cardboard, so it is hard to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. Under the action of open flame does not emit poisonous smoke and dangerous combustion products.
Ecology	The material has a zero level of formaldehyde emissions, therefore it is completely safe for the human body both during installation and further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of plasterboard sheets is low, so such a method of cobble skin can allow any person, even if the amount planned for the repair of the toilet is small.

I immediately note that for the design of the box, you need to use moisture-resistant plasterboard, which is painted in green. It is better to carry operation in conditions of high humidity and is specifically designed for installation in plumbing rooms.

By the way, from the reservoir panels collected on from galvanized profiles, you can construct a wonderful box for linen. Including portable. If you choose the coloring panels to tone tile or in the color of plumbing devices, such a container for dirty things will be quite natural to look in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to plasterboard, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use such a set for work:

UD profiles for designing frame parts, walking along walls and ceiling.
CD profiles for mounting the frame racks of the future box, as well as the manufacture of elements of the stiffness of the future design.
Dowel-nails or screws with plastic dowels that wall profiles will be fixed on the surface.
Building level. It is best to use laser, but quite suitable and ordinary, water. A long tool is more suitable, as it is necessary to place the walls.
Reinforcing tape to strengthen the seams between plasterboard sheets. It is called Cherryanka.
Knife for cutting sheets of plasterboard. An ordinary stationery knife with interchangeable blades or a specialized tool is suitable.
Perforator for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls of the bathroom.
The screwdriver for fixing the sheets of plasterboard on the engineered galvanized frame.
Self-tapping screws for drywall. We will need usual (with a sharp tip) and special (they have a tip of the metal drill). The latter will be useful for mounting plasterboard sheets on the installation frame.
Putclone for plasterboard. Used along with the sickle for sealing the seams between the sheets of the plating.
Acrylic primer. Used to treat the surface of the GCC in order to reduce their absorbency and increase the adhesion to the tile glue (or another decorative material).
Scissors for metal. With their help from long galvanized profiles, suitable parts are cut out.
Spatulas. It is used for plasterboard joints and gluing tiles.

Engine installation technology

This time I will tell you how to install a box in a bathroom from drywall, with which you can not only close the pipes, but also to hide the installation for the suspension toilet (since the plumbing room in the case described was combined).

I broke the technology of such a box to several consecutive steps, which are shown in the diagram below:

Marking

I will start with the fact that I will perform the markup of the walls for the installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I said, I will sow together with pipelines installation, to which the toilet is mounted. Initially, the field of the future battle looks like this:

We begin markup. Despite the seeming simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets, which I want to tell in more detail:

I perform marking walls near vertical pipes.This is done as follows:
- First you need to find a plot of a pipe that comes farther than others, after which the distance equal to 3-5 cm from it (the minimum allowable) and make a mark on the wall.

With a laser or water level, a strictly vertical line should be conducted, which starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark made and ends at the floor.
Similarly, you should enroll with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made, denoting the surface of the future box, after which it takes a strictly vertical line through it.

I perform the markup of the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and the floor.These will be landmarks for securing profiles on the above surfaces. Scheme of work Next:
- Near the ceiling to line on the wall is applied as a square in such a way that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
- After that, the square is installed in a vertical line vertical on the wall.
- With the help of a pencil on the ceiling, a line is carried out, according to which the U-shaped profile is subsequently fixed.
- Similarly, a perpendicular wall line is carried out from the adjacent wall. There should be such a markup.
- After that, it is similar to posting the floor to which the profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

Location Places to install profiles near installation for toilet.In this place, the box will hold a minimum of the free space of the bathroom, therefore profiles will be installed at one level with the edge of the installation frame. The sequence of action is:
- The rime should be applied to the frame, focusing on which a mark on the wall of the bathroom, which will be on the same level with the frame.
- According to the marks made, you need to spend lines on the wall.
- Check the correctness of the marking using the water level. Marks must be strictly vertically and horizontally.

When marking, it is not possible to navigate the size of the pipes, but on the geometric parameters of the tile. In this case, the markup of the design boundaries is made as follows:
- In the corner opposite to where the box will be put, it is necessary to retreat from the place of the wall of the walls of about 1.2 cm (the thickness of the tile with adhesive composition) and put the mark with a pencil. Then, through this risk, spend a vertical line over the entire wall - from the ceiling to the floor.

The distance from this mark is measured to the expected location of the box. After that, the obtained value is divided into the width used for cladding tiles plus 2 mm on the seam between each.
Then the mark is placed for the box so that after laying the tile it was not necessary to cut it. Or so that the thick tile was wide (that is, the sliced \u200b\u200bpart was narrow). Thus, the box will look as much as possible.

After the markup is completed, you can move to the installation of galvanized profiles, which will later be fastened with plasterboard.

Installation of profiles

Let's start working with the installation of a framework profiles, which will sow vertical tap and sewer pipes. The sequence of installation action is as follows:

I establish galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. Dowel nails will be used to consolidate them:
- First, you need to cut off the U-shaped galvanized profile in such a way that its length is equal to the length of the floor. Cut parts can be used with scissors for metal.
- After that, the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece is trying on the place of its installation. If for some reason its installation interferes with protruding parts, a small portion of the profile can be cut with scissors and adjust the pliers.

Then the fitted part is pressed to the floor and directly through it in a concrete surface with a perforator, a hole of a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the chosen dowels (usually 6 mm) is made.

After that, a plastic dowel with a metal core is clogged into the hole, which will be firmly held the metal part in the place intended for it.
Similarly, the holes are drilled and the other dowels are clogged. The distance between adjacent fasteners is about 20 cm.

I establish galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room.The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly on the markup. Otherwise, then there will be serious difficulties when installing intermediate profiles and fixing sheets of plasterboard.
I install vertical parts on the walls.This also requires UD profiles and dowel-nails. Scheme of work Next:
- From the profile with scissors for metal, the part is cut, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
- After that, the profile is inserted into the parts that are already fixed on the ceiling and the floor.

The profile is then nailed to the surface with a dowel-nail. First, it is better to drill a hole and score fasteners near the floor and the ceiling so that the item is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate attachments at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. It is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly on the line on the wall.
After that, vertical and horizontal parts need to be copped with each other with the help of small screws ("clouds"). To do this, it is necessary to compress the pliers of two details together, after which they screw the self-tapping screw in this place. If this is not done, the surface of the inner part when fastening fasteners can be brought.

If the lengths of your profile have lacks, you can build a suitable part of two. To do this, they are invested each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this site must be reinforced by a separate dowel with a screw.

I install the corner item for the vertical part of the box.It uses not UD, but a CD profile that has the necessary strength. Installation scheme is simple. It is necessary to cut off the part of the desired length, after which insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and the floor, and then bore together with small self-draws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
I install the intermediate ribs of stiffness.They are made from CD profiles. The distance between adjacent vertical elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the profile by the wall with the central part and provide the desired rigidity and strength of the structure during subsequent trim and operation. Make sure that the ribs of stiffness are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should have approximately such a design (1 - wall profile, 2 - central profile, 3 - rigidity edge).

I establish galvanized profiles for a box that sews installation.The scheme of work here is even easier:
- First, the walls are attached to the wall on the walls of the pre-made stamps with a dowel-nail or screws.
- Then the installation angle is connected to the profiles on the wall of another detail. All of them are fasten with each other using self-tapping screws (in the figure below the node number 1).
- Please note that in the case described by me, the framework for the installation of installation was attached after the trimming of the vertical box with plasterboard. However, I describe this process here so as not to disrupt the output logic (in the figure below the node number 2).

On this, the process of manufacturing the frame is completed and can be moved to its firmware with plasterboard.

Fastening sheets of plasterboard

How to mount on the made carcase plasterboard:

Perform a cutting of GCC on the details of the desired size.Despite the seeming simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances, on which I would like to stay in more detail:
- First, with the help of a roulette, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, after which it is to transfer these sizes to plasterboard sheets.

Then, according to the resulting lines, the sheets are cut on the details. To do this, the aluminum rule (or level) is applied to the line, after which the cardboard layer on the GLC and part of the gypsum is cut into the knife. Then the item turns over to the other side and is cleaned. It remains only to cut off the second layer of cardboard and firing the end.

If necessary, the technological holes need to be done in the shear sheets to their screwing to the frame. For this purpose, plasterboard is applied to the place of installation, after which areas are placed to be removed. Then they are cut off using the same knife or piece of canvas from the metal pink (for openings of the rounded form you will not think better).

Be sure to need holes for installing revision doors. Usually they cut through those places where counters or shut-off valves are located. It is also necessary to provide access to revision holes in sewage pipes for cleaning them in case of clogging.

Introducing drywall sheets to profiles and guides.The sequence of actions is as follows:
- To secure the GLC on the frame used black screws with sharp tips.
- Watch the fasteners are needed using a screwdriver, which can rotate with low revs.

Profiles are attached to the side, and to the intermediate guide. The distance between adjacent self-containers is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sew all areas of the constructed frame. I got such a design.

We enhance the plasterboard installation for the suspension toilet.There are several important features that are worth a separate mention:
- I started to design the box and the installation of installation only after the end of work with the vertical part of the box, as part of the guide for my idea is attached to drywall.

The top and side of the installation is trimmed with drywall sheets in one layer, since in the process of operation does not experience elevated loads, and the front side of the structure should turn into two layers of drywall.

To fix the GLC on the metal installation you need to use special self-tapping screws (in Figure below number 1), the tip of which has a metal drill form. If you have no such, then before screwing the usual self-press (in the figure below, at number 2) in the installation you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

The first sheet of the plasterboard is first screwed to the front of the installation, and then, on top of it, the second. In both parts, all the necessary technological holes must be predetermined.

On this, the process of fixing drywall on the frame of our box can be considered complete. I eventually got this design.

Now you can proceed to the decorative trim of the surface of the box.

Finish finish

As the finishing finish of my box with installation, I chose ceramic tiles. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be fermented with any decorative material - both wallpaper, and paint, and, if you want, plastic.

Scheme of work on sticking tiles as follows:

Sharpen gap between GKL.To do this, use putty for seams. For example, Knauf Fugefuller. To additionally strengthen these sites, you can use fiberglass tape - sickle. Work is made in this order:
- The seams are processed by primer for plasterboard. It will be dedicted by these portions of the box and improve the surface adhesion to the putty used.
- A pre-mixed with water or the finished mixture is needed to apply on the seams between the sheets, after which it is thoroughly pressing it inside.
- Top on the seam to glue the sickle, after which it is still a small amount of solution from above and to dissolve it with a spatula.

The ground is the surface of the plasterboard.Processing GLCs better twice. You can apply a putty using a roller or ordinary brush. Treatment in two layers increases the strength of adhesion adhesion and, accordingly, the latter is better to hold the tile on the surface of the finished box.

Perform tile laying.This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those interested can appeal for the necessary information. Here I will not stop in this process.

After completing the masonry of the tile and drying the glue using silicone

Very often, repairs in the bathroom and the toilet are carried out in order to make the image of the room more attractive. The presence of communications sometimes spoils even the most fashionable and stylish repair. Hide unsightly communications will wash the box made of drywall. The box in the bathroom of plasterboard with the doors and without them can be made with their own hands. To do this, it is necessary to first examine the instructions, after which you can start repairing. For the manufacture of the box is best suitable for moisture-resistant plasterboard.

The drywall box will help not only hide communications, but also provide them with reliable protection against unexpected mechanical premises. This material allows you to make a comfortable design that will provide free access to the pipes at the required moment. So that the repair work has passed successfully, it is necessary to prepare carefully to them.

Properly selected tools - the key to successfully performed repair work. To work, you will need: hammer, roulette, pencil, level, plumb, knife.

The first thing the master should be drawn by the markup, which will determine the sizes of the frame. It is important to notice that the profile should not touch the pipes. There should be allowances for stripes of plasterboard sheets.

How to make marking:

Determine the upper markup point, given the outdoor drawing.
Run a straight line from the top mark to the very base.

The success of the entire construction depends on the correctness of the markup. In order to perform marking clearly and smoothly, you need to use a plumb and level. After performing the preparatory work, you can start assembling and installing the frame.

How to make a box of drywall in the bathroom: mounting frame

Before collecting a frame, you need to select the material for the profile. It is best to use aluminum. This material is ideally combined with plasterboard, and also has anti-corrosion qualities.

The use of wooden bars when installing a frame will make the work silent and will create additional attachments.

It is important to use a sufficient number of bars, which is determined depending on the height of the profiles. Brussic prevent profile deformation under the weight of sheets of plasterboard. It is important to pay special attention to the process of cutting plasterboard sheets.

Stages of work:

Cut two sidewalls.
Install side panels.
Cut the third panel.
To impose the last panel to the top of the side sheets.

When fixing the screws, it is important to draw attention to the fact that it is necessary to cut them into the profile. At the same time, end sidewalls should not be touched. Do not forget that the box needs to cut holes that provide access to communications.

Sheathing sheets and how to make a box of plasterboard in the bathroom:

The elements for the frame of the frame must be solid. The edges of the side details must match the frame profiles. The last part serves to close the side panels.

When the elements are fixed, it is important to correctly perform measurements and take into account the indents between the screws that should not exceed 2.5 cm.

Places to control the serviceability of the pipeline are also made of plasterboard sheets. Special magnets are used to secure them. The box can be made completely collapsible.

Decorative finishing options:

Ceramic tile;
Paint;
Decorative plaster.

After installing the box, the bathroom will look much more attractive. The noise level from the pipes is much reduced. It is important to make sure that the box does not interfere with the maintenance of pipes.

Technological holes: how to close the pipes in the bathroom plasterboard:

When forming a box, it is important to leave accessible meters, valves, valves, gearboxes and compensators. Holes in the material need to cut large on the size of the door themselves. The door is fixed after installing the frame.

In order to monitor the sewer drain, the hole must be positioned in front of the box.

The door can be placed on the side if it serves to regulate the condition of the valves and pipes. Holes for pipes in the box should be made a little larger. The space between them is filled with foamed polyethylene or packles.

The components of the door:

Frame;
G CLEM;
Push lock;
Sealant;
Door.

For the manufacture of doors and the box itself, moisture-resistant plasterboard are used. It is processed by a special impregnation, stable wet air. Glekb prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. After installing the box, it is better to bond with ceramic tiles. Then the bathroom will look stylish, the pipes will be protected from mechanical impacts, and the box is from moisture. The bathroom needs a special finish that will not deteriate the effects of moisture and the temperature regime.

Making a box in a bathtub from drywall (video)

The bathroom is filled with pipes that negatively affect the appearance of the room. It is for this that it is closed by a box. It can be made of materials of various types. One of these materials is plasterboard. Better if it is moisture-resistant. You can make a box yourself, after examining the instructions and making marking. It is important not to forget to leave the observation doors in the box, in order to have the ability to continuously access communications in case of their breakdown.

The modern plumbing room has a variety of communications intended for water supply, sewer system and heating. All of them essentially spoil the interior of the room, in connection with which the need arises in their shelter. An ideal solution for the purpose of implementing such a disguise is a box for pipes in the bathroom, which is a simple, but rather functional design.

Pipe box specificity

Bathroom and toilet rooms are characterized by a characteristic microclimate and contain various general engineering systems. At these pipes, counters are usually mounted for controlling the flow of all types of water and shut-off valves. All this needs periodic maintenance, expressing in checking the disadvantage of compounds, cleaning filters and repair any malfunctions.

There are a variety of ways to aesthetically close the communications. One of them is a hidden layout, in which special shoes are created for pipes in the walls, but this option cannot be considered as a universal due to a number of shortcomings. The installation of the box will provide access to technical systems, it can be completely collapsing or have special doors.

Requirements for construction

To the box masking pipes, certain requirements are presented, the main of them are as follows:

1. The exclusion of the premises, the decorative box should occupy the minimum number of space, as the sanitary and technical room has a small area. However, in the manufacture of the design, it is necessary to strictly withstand the necessary distance of its elements from pipes, which should be at least three centimeters.
2. Providing access to communications without any difficulty. The structure of the box should allow the specialist to freely carry out the necessary operations with elements of the engineering system. For these purposes, the ideal solution will be a removable design, otherwise the installation of numerous doors will be required.
3. Safety that does not allow human physical injuries during operation.
4. Harmonicity with the decoration of the room, the ability to fit into the overall interior.

Taking into account the feature of the microclimate of the bathroom, the decorative box should be distinguished by moisture resistance.

Advantages of camouflage box

When making modern bathroom premises, the box, covering the pipe, is often made. Its popularity is due to the presence of a number of benefits:

1. Aesthetic appearance due to the quality of materials used for the manufacture of materials.
2. Simplicity of assembly, which allows the construction of the system not only during overhaul, but also cosmetic, as it is allowed to install the structure over the finished finish.
3. Ensuring unhindered access to the engineering system, allowing to monitor its condition, to carry out repair work in the event of the need and fix the meter readings.
4. The possibility of productive use of the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom by combining the structure with the installation for the toilet, various shelves and other elements.

A neatly made box can be simultaneously functional and aesthetic, becoming a decoration of the room.

Communication barriers options

You can hide the pipes in the bathroom in different ways, the most popular of which are considered as follows:

1. Cabinet box, such a solution is usually used for vertical location systems such as risers. Construction provides full-fledged access to the pipeline, counters and other items. Its advantage is the possibility of places inside it and various fixtures for storing business items. That allows you to effectively use the area in the bathroom and the toilet.
2. Controls like partitions installed along the entire length of the room and in its entire height, thereby making a certain space is separate. The disadvantage of this option is to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, but at the same time its appearance becomes perfect due to the full hiding of all engineering systems. Such partitions are particularly suitable for spacious premises and toilets with a suspended toilet, as the installation is masked together with communications.
3. Compact box located around the pipes. Such structures are used quite often due to the fact that they do not take away the space and give the room an aesthetic appearance. These systems can be located both vertically and horizontally, adjacent to the ceiling or floor.

Types and characteristics of the material

To perform a decorative box, a masking pipe, you need to choose the appropriate material that needs to meet some requirements. The main of them is expressed in resistance to elevated levels of humidity, small weight and a small thickness. Also, the design should be made of components that differ in environmental safety.

From all the materials offered by the market, such criteria correspond to moisture-resistant plasterboard and plywood, MDF or plastic. PVC panels and plates of G Clac are particularly popular.

Polyvinyl chloride panels

Working with this material is the simplest closing of pipes. His positive parties are as follows:

1. The PVC pipe disguise box does not require additional works associated with the finish.
2. If you need to disassemble all component elements, which is especially important for pipelines with fitting and threaded types of compounds.
3. Easy installation, fully executed independently.
4. Implementing deformations and simple care during operation. The material is distinguished by plasticity and reliability, with damage to individual panels, each of them can be easily replaced.
5. Minor thickness that contributes to the compactness of the design.
6. The product from polyvinyl chloride withstands repeated builds and disassembly and provides the ability to store inside various accessories, creating all the conditions for this.

The PVC material has not only advantages, but also weaknesses. One of them is small resistance to temperature drops. The material has a specific smell that cannot be eliminated. Plastic has the ability after time to decay, highlighting the harmful components during this process in the air.

Moisture-resistant plasterboard

In comparison with PVC panels at drywall there are much more advantages. Of these, it is necessary to highlight the main:

1. Simple installation. The Material of G Clac is easily fixed on the basis made of galvanized profiles, which allows you to create a box for pipes with any configuration and size. Conducting such works does not require special skills and attracting complex equipment.
2. Sheets made of drywall have a slight weight, which eliminates the additional load on the details of the structure and implies the use of weighty galvanized elements to hold them.
3. The flexibility of the material that provides the ability to give a product of the desired form. For this, one of the parties to the G Clac is moistened and cut.
4. Smooth surface that simplifies the decorative trim process. In this case, additional leveling will be required by plastering by lighthouses.
5. The texture of plasterboard allows decoration of various types of materials for finishing. Usually, a tile is used for this purpose, but you can finish a box for pipes from G Clac with clapboard, go to wallpaper or just paint.
6. Fireproof material due to the fact that it consists of sheets of cardboard and hardened gypsum, a non-flame inflammation. In the case of open-fire contact, the plasterboard does not secrete poisonous substances that have a negative impact on human health.
7. Environmental safety due to the zero level of the emission of formaldehyde plasterboard. The material will not harm both in the installation process and during subsequent operation.
8. Democratic price making material available to each consumer.

It is important to remember that the pipe box must be performed only from moisture-resistant drywall, painted in green. This option is well tolerates a high level of humidity and is intended for operation in such conditions.

Manufacture and installation

Before proceeding with the construction of the system, preparatory work must be carried out. When laying new pipes, it is recommended to proceed them in a wiring as few connections as possible. Before installation, it is necessary to carry out a thorough check of pipes for the presence of various damage resulting from the leaks.

Material for the execution of the box should be perfect for sanitary facilities. After the measurements required for subsequent work, the preliminary drawing of the future design is thrown. It should provide free access to all devices and elements on the pipeline.

Preparation of tools and auxiliary materials

The design of the box for masking pipes in the bathroom includes a frame, trim and fasteners. In turn, the frame can be manufactured either from metal profiles or from wooden bars. Due to the fact that the tree is significantly inferior to the metal in durability, it is recommended when choosing to give preference to the second option.

As a fastener, you must prepare:

dowels for mounting the frame to the wall;
self-tapping screws or metal with which the framework of the frame is carried out;
self-tapping screws used for work with trimming material.

Before making a system for masking pipes in sanitary and engineers, take care of the presence of such tools as:

roulette;
corolnic;
building level;
screwdriver;
perforator;
plane;
scissors for work with metal or hacksaw;
a knife with a sharp blade;
UD and CD profiles.

Measuring operations

Before the start of the construction, the place is specified where the design will be located, and all the necessary measurements are carried out. This will eliminate the amendments during the installation work, which are always accompanied by certain difficulties. It is almost impossible to change the size of the already prepared element, do not affect other parts of the structure.

At this stage, the location of the viewing doors or removable box parts is immediately thought out. The drawing where the dimensions of the system will be indicated, it is recommended to make the thickness of the finishing material. The markup to perform the frame begins immediately from the floor, while the sizes between the walls of the design and pipes are strictly maintained, which should not be less than three centimeters.

After the contour of the box is determined, it is applied to the ceiling and walls on the construction plunde, which in the future will be in contact with this structure.

Build frame for box

Armature around the pipes is usually performed from a galvanized profile or wooden rivers with excellent moisture-resistant characteristics. The last option requires mandatory processing by antiseptic means. The connection of the framework parts is carried out by means of a barrel or self-tapping screws. Additionally, the dowels and special screws will be needed. Works consist of several stages:

mounted profile on the walls;
install racks that will act as a facial facility of the box;
installation of guides on the ceiling and on the floor.

The length of the racks may exceed one and a half meters, in which case jumpers can be equipped between them, which may still be required when the width of the frame of twenty-five centimeters is exceeded. The distance between these structural elements should be no more than one meter. Jumpers will add structures necessary hardness.

When performing reinforcement from a tree, cutting sections are processed by special construction mastic. This prevents the process of rotting and deformation due to temperature drops and fluctuations in the humidity level.

The process of plating

After completing the cutting of all the required items, the trim is performed. It is not recommended to cut out the material fragments, it is best to take advantage of solid pieces. This will minimize the possibility of distortion and discrepancy in size. During the implementation of the cutting, it is necessary to look after the edges of the elements that should not go beyond the part of the frame. Ideally, all elements should be coincided with each other. The cut-out face of the design should cover the side parts.

Installation of cut-out material to replenishment of reinforcement is made by means of screws, the distance between which should not exceed two and a half centimeters. This will give the box hardness and strength and will eliminate the need for additional jumpers.

To control individual sections of the communication system in the casing material, special holes and doors are provided. They can be purchased in the finished form in specialized stores or do it yourself. To prevent spontaneous breaking of viewing doors, they are installed on them magnets or various shut-off parts, for example, the latch.

In the manufacture of a fully collapsible structure, the sheets of material for finishing are fastened by means of soles in its largest edge, and in the process of performing final finishing works are not closed. Only plastic or plinth corners are mounted, having the ability to easily understand if necessary.

Let's say no open communications

The appointment of the sanitary node is extremely clear. It is also clear that there are many pipes in it, which can not make the appearance of the premises attractive. For this reason, recently has become very fashionable to hide communications in the box. Such a measure allows you to make a bathroom more attractive in appearance, but reduces the possibility of access to pipes if you need revisos or eliminating accidents. Today we will talk about how to collect bathroom box So that it was and beautiful, and functionally.

The first thing you have to encounter is the choice of material and which the boxes will be made. The determining factor for decision making will be the main decoration of the walls - usually the same material must be put on the box so that it looks organically and did not stand out the stain in the overall composition.

And box, and walls are covered with the same cafeter

Although this is not so much a rule as a recommendation, since there are often cases of combining completely different materials. Imagine the situation when you bought an apartment, and there was already a good repair, which you are not going to redo it, but why not closed. Find the same tile can become problematic, and its laying will require more experience, forces and time. In this case, various decorative boxes can help. You can collect them from plastic or, for example, lining. And if you have a feeling of color, then the insert will not look alien. Yes, and in any case it will look more careful than open riser and wiring.

Sometimes people go at all for non-standard solutions. Look at the following photo and appreciate the author's idea.

Closes pipe rolls

Pipes here are in a wall niche, which the enterprising owner decided to close the rolling shutters. It looks unusual, but you agree, very attractive and that the main thing is that a person has full access to all communications. We put the author five with a plus from our resource for enterprise.

Plastic box

The following photo shows an option from plastic. The same material is used for the ceiling, therefore the box is not knocked out of the overall picture, despite the fact that the walls are covered with a cafenel.
However, if you have overhaul in the room, we advise you to do everything at once, as it should be, not saving on trifles. Moreover, it will significantly simplify the procedure for finishing the walls.

So, according to the result, all boxes can be divided into two types - decorative and decorative-functional, which are initially assembled from materials that do not need to be finished, and used as a base under ceramic tiles. In the second case, plasterboard is applied, dry-fiber and panel osp. Today we will analyze the installation of two options of boxes: from plastic and plasterboard.

Plasterboard box in the bathroom

Let's start with drywall as a more popular and universal option. Work with this material is a pleasure. It is easy to handle and allows you to collect the designs of almost any configuration.

Instruments

To work, we need the following set of tools:

Table 1. Tools for work.

Tool, photo:	Description, Purpose:
Perforator	Plasterboard is attached to the frame, which in turn is attached to the walls, floor and ceiling. The compound is performed on a dowel screw or anchor-wedges, which are inserted into the holes done in concrete and brick walls to the perforator. The tool itself is not required professional, since the scope of work will not be very large.
In the photo of a network screwdriver	The screwdriver will help us to connect the framework details with each other, fasten the drywall sheets, screw the screws into a dowel when fastening profiles, and even completely replace the perforator if the work is performed in a wooden house. Choose a better battery tool, as it is especially convenient to work at the height. It should have a high speed of engine speeds to quickly and without effort to screw the hardware into the metal profile.
Scissors for metal	This profile will have to cut in the size of the box. Professionals in large objects make it an electric tool, and we have enough scissors for metal, as the components will not be so much.
Raspil on plasterboard	When cutting drywall, uneven edges are obtained, which can play the plane of the box and interfere with laying tiles in the future. Fix the situation is the easiest way to be like this rashpil, which can be purchased at a price of no more than 100 rubles.
Stationery knife	Cut the plasterboard can be very easy and quickly a stationery knife. It is used only for direct cut. For figure, it will further need to have a hacksaw.
Tool for marking	You will need a roulette and a marker. For the most plasterboard, you can use a pencil - for profiles it is not suitable, since it will not draw on galvanized coating.
Water level	It is very important to set the frame strictly in terms of the level, as it can serve as an excellent basis for painting a wall tile when finished. To determine the horizon, it is best to use a water level or a laser level. In the extreme case, we use a bubble level, but be careful, as it can give an error in measurements.

Prices for popular perforator models

Perfutes

The set, we, of course, were called not all, as it constantly arises the need for different smallers. For example, dowel-screws can not be twisted and score, then the hammer is useful, or you can connect profiles to the rod and so on. If we missed something important, it will pop up in the course of the description of the work.

Materials for work

The easiest is the box to collect from the following components:

Table 2. Material for work.

Materials, photo:	Description:
Guide ceiling profile	Profiles There are many varieties, but the most convenient for our purposes is a ceiling 27 * 28 mm. It has a p-shaped shape without rigidity. The strength of the element will be entirely dependent on the thickness of the metal - it is best to take the option by 0.6 mm.
Plasterboard	Plasterboard We will use only moisture-resistant. It has a green shell. The wall and ceiling option is suitable, as the design will be subsequently enhanced with a ceramic tiles glued on top.
Dowel-Sculp	Plastic dowel-screws will reliably bind the frame and walls. Buy an option with a haired mushroom. Pattaya is shown in the photo - it can also be used, but the first option will keep better. Dimensions of fasteners 6 * 40 mm. The same to the perforator is taken by the borough.
Self-tapping screw	These 9 mm do not seek to bind profiles among themselves. You can replace them with a model with pressshibe, but screw them into the metal is somewhat heavier.
Self-tapping screws	The seller in the store can be said about the tapping screws for drywall, and it will show you here on such crawled hardware with a rapid thread. Due to this, they are highly held on thin-walled profiles. This fastener is used for mounting plasterboard sheets. Length will be enough 25 mm.

Prices for plasterboard and sheet materials

Plasterboard and leafy materials

Plasterboard, most likely, enough and one sheet, if the length of the pipes are not very big. In general, the sheet has dimensions 120 * 250 cm. Use this data when calculating.

The profile is also easy to calculate. You need to measure the length of the future box. Suppose it turned out 2.5 M.. We multiply this number to three, as there will be three belts. In our case it turns out 7.5 M.. The length of one profile is 3 metersSo we need to buy 3 pieces - trimming will go to the formation of stops on the sides. To do this, you need to know the depth and width of the box.

Tip! If the sides of the box are approaching to 50 cm, it is better to install additional jumpers from the PN profile 27*60 for reliability. Also increase the number of belts up to 4.

Difficult to make a box? More information in our! All about the types of boxes, pros and cons of designs. Also detailed instructions for the manufacture of frame and plasterboard installation.

Tube plasterboard assembly

Rims - sewer and tap pipes

So, we have the usual bathroom of the high-rise building through which the sewage and water pipes passes. It requires beautifully all this cover and leave access to revision and water meters. We will act in the following order:

Step 1. Marking circuit circuit.

Place the contours of the box

Everything, as usual, begins with marking. To do this, we need a plumb, pencil, coloring thread, a square and roulette (not always).
We find the most protruding parts on the pipes. It can be connections, cranes, counters, audit on sewage and so on. With the help of the kitchen, we carry them with the level of labels on the walls. Then add to the points 3 cm to the side, from the riser. As you understood, we will place both planes right now. If you make the necessary indent interfere with some obstacles, then attach the PNP profile and see the most optimal position, taking into account the thickness of the drywall and tiles used, which will then fall on it - 2.5 cmIn order not to make a mistake.
Then take a plumb or laser level and put the labels at the bottom and at the top of the wall, focusing on the marks obtained taking into account 3 cm. With the help of coloring threads we connect the dots and get a flat line from the ceiling to the floor.
Next you need to place the ceiling. This part is the most difficult. We apply to the walls alternate a square and draw two intersecting lines. What's the difficult thing here, you ask? And the fact that then we need to check the corners that we have turned out. Naturally, the walls will exactly 90 degrees. Check the outer angle, which ideally should be the same. We use for this same as the same as a carbon or transport. When large drops are detected, it is necessary to redraw the line so that it turns out the least noticeable difference.

Paul can be placed and after binding guides to walls and ceiling

Next, take a plumb, and apply it to the thread to the point of intersection of direct to spread it on the floor. You can make this work and a laser level, but the bubble can deceive. We do only so. Separately, it is impossible to simplify the coal and roulette, since as a result the outer angle can be wounded.
Having found the right point, connect it with lines on the walls.

Step 2. Installation of the profile.

Mount the profile

Sut off the metal with scissors for metal slightly less than the height of the room so that we do not rest in the ceiling when they are installed. We assume the perforator in the hands, align the outer edge of the profile on the line on the wall and gently begin to drill, trying not to move anything. Start from the ceiling, retreating from him centimeters 50. Then we insert the dowel to the resulting hole with a screw and twist it.
Go to the bottom and repeat the procedure exactly. We are convinced that the profile is exactly over the line, after which we start to fix it along the entire length, in increments of 40-50 cm.
Breeping two sections of the profile, as shown in the photo on the floor and the ceiling.

Tip! Even the shortest profile must be attached not less than 2 dowel screwsso that he does not rotate.

Lifehac from Master

In situations where the crossbars need to be attached to the guides in a hard-to-reach place, it is better to install them right away, and only then kpa a profile to the wall.

Step 3. Installation of the angular rack.

Mount the angular rack

Next you need to fix the angular rack. It is easy to make it, but it is worth remembering that the element can be twisted for various reasons, so before fixing, we must check its position in terms of the level.
The installed stand will hang out, as it is practically not fixed. Start setting the crossbars, and this effect will gradually come down. Put jumpers in a step of 60 cm. The exception is the installation site of the revision hatch - there we focus on its position and sizes, and the place of docking sheets of plasterboard.
The crossbars are connected using self-samples. On the other hand, where there is no possibility to insert a profile, the installation tongues are made on the items, or you can dock another profile to the corner rack that you need to deploy to the second wall.

Jumpers on the second side of the frame

If you have a small box in size, then the jumpers can not be put. They will replace the plasterboard itself fastened on both sides. The edging of the audit window also joins only plasterboard.

Step 4.. Mounting plasterboard.

Krepim Plasterton

At the last stage, we cut drywall on the strip of the desired width and secure it to the frame. Cut the easiest way. Put the leaf to the frame and grab it at several points, raising it from floor by 5 mm. We take the stationery knife and along the corner rack, as on the guide, cut the layer of cardboard. We take away the sheet and bend it. Cut the paper on the other side and remove an extra piece.
The irregularities that came to the edge, obey the stationery knife or rasp.
The first side we link will be the one where the hole under the hatch will be. Cut it with a saw also at the place, and boldly close the box completely. Self-tapping screws need to screw into the guide profiles and jumpers, their step is 20-25 cm. There is no need to monitor the caps of the hats just recessed into the material, since the tile is placed on glue, which is not terrible such small errors.

Prices for metal profiles

Metal profile

On this installation ends, it remains only a finish, which you can read in other articles on our website.

Using a box for hiding the pipeline

Video - how to make a box of drywall for pipes

Plastic Bond Installation

Plastic set even easier than plasterboard

PVC is good because it is not afraid of water, it also does not require trim, except for closing the edges. The plastic box is assembled almost just like plasterboard. In principle, this material can be attached to the same metallic frame.

Video - secrets of installation of plastic box in the toilet

However, instead of metal, it is better to use a wooden rail or timber. Plastic is a fairly fragile material and any solemnity surgery can damage its surface.

Here's what a wooden frame looks like

Let's quickly analyze the assembly process, and clarify the main differences.

So, everything begins with exactly the same markup - we need flat lines on the walls, on the ceiling and floor.
Next take a ray 25 mm thick And you nail it to the walls on the dowel-screws 6 * 60 mm.

Attention! Reiki can be behavior, so beyond them as needed, focusing on the markup.

Rack fixture to the wall of a dowel-screw

The same rail is mounted on the floor and the ceiling.
An external rack from a bar is installed cross section 35 * 35 mm and more. She attached to the rail with steel furniture corners.
In the location of the hatch also build a framework. If a box more than 37.55 cm in width, put the crossbar.

Details of self-draws and steel corners are connected.

It is worth making a little retreat. The width is indicated with the calculation of the fact that good durable plastic can be used, which has similar dimensions. If you bought a narrower option, you will need to dock, and therefore, without jumpers that will go every 50 cmwill not do.

Next step - installation of starting

L-shaped profile or in a simple - starting, cut off the length of the box, applied to the rail and is attached to it on a screw or stapler on the brackets. At the same time, the part is pressed against the walls so as not to do ugly slots.

Cutting PVC panel stationery knife

Then the plastic panel is taken and is also sliced \u200b\u200balong the length. You can do it with a shallow tooth or a stationery knife. To do this, put the panel so that the unnecessary end is drowned above the edge of the plane, for example, tables or stools. Make markup with pencil and kit. Swell the top layer of plastic, give it away and expect the second.
If the edges of the panel will not close anything (baguettes, plinth), put the starting profile on them. Insert plastic into the starting on the wall and attach to the outer stand on the screw. In the same way, install the second side, having pre-cut the hole under the hatch - it is not necessary to add it, since the revision hatches have their own edging that will hide the edge.

Assortment of external corners under glue

Next, you will need an external angular profile under glue, as shown in the photo above. Bold it we will be on "liquid nails". After installing the item must be attracted by painting scotch and leave to dry.

Prices for various types of liquid nails

Liquid Nails

On this work, actually ends. As you can see, nothing is difficult, it is enough to have the necessary tool and know how to work with the materials. We also advise you to view the video attached to the article, there you can see another interesting variation of the plastic box.

Learn how to install, and also familiarize yourself with its purpose, species, sizes, in a special article on our portal.