Overview of the best finishing options for the unedged board. Casing at home board with do-it-yourself finishing house cutting board

People who own their own home are rarely indifferent to his appearance. This is especially true of wooden houses. Although the house built from high-quality wood, and without any protection can stand hundreds of years, his facades are darked over time and the building is growing right in front of "old", enveling the look of the village hut.

How to prevent these undesirable consequences? The easiest and most natural option is the finish of the external walls of the building with a facade board.

In a wide understanding of the front board, you can call any jogging material used for facing facades.

There are many such materials:

lining;
block house;
imitation of timber;
planken;
board of DPK-composite;
vinyl siding;
metallic siding;
fibro-cement siding.

The last three varieties are mainly used to cover frame houses and they are used not only to give the facade of the aesthetic appearance, but also as a means of protecting the insulation (located on the outside of the walls) from the effects of adverse atmospheric factors.

These tasks are not bad and listed above the wood panels. To protect log and brusal walls that do not need additional insulation, it is most often used that the wooden facade board. It is a material that is related main material of the walls and, due to its ability to "breathe", does not interfere with their ventilation, which is important for the safety of any wooden structures.

Therefore, in this article we will consider women's facade materials.

Lining, block house and imitation of timber

These are materials from one line, differing exclusively by the form of cross-section and thickness.

Lining - a long time and well-known view of the facade facing, familiar to almost every person. It is a plane on one side of a thickness of 12 - 20 mm depending on the profile and destination. The board of the lining is equipped with a groove on one side, and on the other - a spike that allows you to tightly connect the adjacent boards, giving the trim some tightness.

Modern types of the panels of this type can have a different profile and when sheeling creates surfaces from almost smooth to pronounced.

Block House is the same lining, only with a rounded facial surface, which when sheel creates a very realistic impression that you have a wall from a round rounded log.

Simulation of timber - This profile is formed by removing the champers along the long side of the board, which when installing on the surface, it creates a look of a wall folded from a bar. Bilateral lining is a storing material on both sides and is mainly used not to cover the walls, but to create thin wooden partitions. The advantages and disadvantages of the lining are determined by the material from which it is made - wood.

The benefits of the material include the following:

environmental purity of the material;
high thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics;
aesthetic appearance due to wood texture;
ease of installation;
the ability to repeatedly tinting the facade in the desired color;
relatively low cost.

Disadvantages are the same as the source material:

high combustibility that decreases by regular processing of material with antipirens;
low biological resistance - the predisposition to the formation of rot and damage by pests - is leveled by antiseptics;
high water absorption, which can be reduced by applying varnishes, but the environmental friendliness of the material and its ability to air exchange is reduced;
dense covering can be boring due to the impact on it moisture and temperature drops, which spoils the type of facade.

Currently, the usual flat lining is mainly used to cover surfaces inside the house - it is here that there are most favorable conditions for its long-term use.

A large disadvantage of all tank materials (and lining including) is the impossibility of rapidly replaced by damaged elements.

In order to remove a defective board, you will have to disassemble a significant part of the cladding.

New enough in our market material. It is a wooden board planed on all sides, at all the corners of which the chamfer was removed. Thanks to this, the skin has rounded edges.

There is a planken of various types.

But the main varieties of two:

straight - has a rectangular cross section;
spit - has a beveled side side of the board.

Planken fastening is made on the frame and fundamentally different from the mounting of the lining. In this case, the adjacent plank is placed at a distance of 2-5 mm from each other. Thus, the linear expansion of one element does not entail any consequences for neighboring. In addition, the spoiled board can be easily removed and replaced by a new one.

When using direct planken on the facade, small gaps are formed, which contribute to good ventilating material of the main walls. Kosy Planken is also mounted with a gap, but due to the beveled edge, the slots are not visible, although the functionality of such a sheat is not worse.

Planken, like the lining, produce from wood of various varieties, which is reflected both in its appearance and cost.

Optimal for our climatic conditions is plaquen from larch, which is well opposed to the adverse effects of the atmosphere.

It is somewhat more expensive than pine and firing, but will serve longer.

Currently, you can find an impregnated plankin. It is obtained by impregnating elements in the autoclave. Mostly for this use cheaper pine wood, which has increased permeability and therefore well sustains impregnation.

It has advantages over usual:

the cost of impregnated material is lower than larch (not to mention more expensive wood rocks);
it does not require additional processing with protective impregnations;
the material does not smell, not dumping and completely safe for people and animals;
perfectly opposed fungus, mold and rot.

As a facing of the facade, such a material meets the general requirement - the optimal ratio of price and quality. Unlike lining, such material is more convenient in installation and operation. In addition, with its help you can give facades a noble view.

It is a product of high technologies and is a composition comprising wood flour and a thermoplastic polymer in a different ratio.

DPK containing a large amount of wood flour (70% or more) is less resistant to moisture and more fragile. If the polymer is larger than wood, then the product resembles plastics. Therefore, the 1: 1 ratio is considered to be the most successful - it provides the product with natural appearance and properties of polymers.

The DPK is used mainly to finish objects actively subjected to atmospheric influences - moisture, the sun, temperature fluctuations.

The material has the following positive qualities:

high resistance to abrasion, scratches;
resistance to ultraviolet - the trim practically does not fade;
resistance to moisture - cladding does not absorb moisture. does not breed, does not change linear dimensions;
the ability to operate in a wide temperature range: from -50 to +70 degrees;
not exposed to pests and mold;
durable - withstands high loads and is not afraid of strikes;
does not require processing with antiseptics and special care;
racks to the effects of aggressive substances;
high fire resistance, does not support combustion;

convenient to install;
environmentally safe;
on thermal conductivity, compare with natural wood;
aesthetic - has many variants of texture and painting.

A significant disadvantage of the material is its high cost.

Sometimes the sellers are offered as a covering thermal. In fact, this is not any separate material, but a method of processing wood in order to give it special durability and strength.

Most often, the larch wood is used for the manufacture of thermal modes, which is subjected to high temperatures. Wood texture is fully saved.

But at the same time, it acquires unusual characteristics previously:

high density;
resistance to moisture;
lack of thermal expansion and swelling;
ability to use without additional processing with protective impregnations.

Treatment of wood occurs in a special chamber with a gradual increase in temperature, allowing to avoid wood deformation and ensure that it has its burden. Next, the fir is made, during which the internal voltage of the material fibers is removed and it solidifies.

From such a material, the facade facing of any of the listed species can be made. But it will be much more expensive than usual. Therefore, deciding to spend on such a material, buy it in a safe place, otherwise you can buy the most ordinary cladding (under the type of thermal-aging), but for big money.

Thus, if necessary, the device of outdoor cladding at home, to choose a material you need to come seriously and responsibly. Here, unreasonable savings may increase in large costs of maintaining the appearance of facades in a decent state.

The speed with which modern technologies develop is stunning. Only yesterday he finished the house with ultra-modern materials, and today they are completely irrelevant.

In pursuit of novelties of the building market, you can rebuild your home at least every year. But there is something that is defiantly and never comes out of fashion. I am now talking about a tree, the material that was in the go many centuries ago, and remains so to this day.

But as it turned out, even the tree is amenable to modernization, and a modern facade board is not just a wooden plank, nailed to the wall, but a high-tech material with high characteristics.

Types of facade board

So what are the facade boards? Answer this question is definitely very difficult. Since this is a generalized concept that includes a whole list of various facade finishes. And each option has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

In order to figure out in detail what a front board is, we will stop more in more detail on each embodiment.

Unedged forest

The most cheap option. Straight, the concept of the facade board is not entirely applicable to the unedged. But after decoration, the house acquires a completely new, original appearance. Unedged board is used in construction for a very long time, and earlier such facades were simply the result of using this material. Most often, for finishing the facade, boards from larch are used. They are more resistant to our changeable climate, and cost cheaper than, for example, beech or fir.

Today is rather tribute to style and design. Unedged board gives the house deliberately simple view of the rustic hut.

Tip! Putting the facade of the unedged board, it is necessary to carefully remove the entire bark and treat the tree with antiseptic impregnations.

Plakenken

Facade Planken Board, from innovations, except, name. In fact, it is simply processed boards with different connections configuration. By type of compounds, plaquen can be:

Wagon type, that is, with a connection "Schip-groove"
Rounded. In this case, the boards are installed to each other.
Angular. This version of the edge was washed under the corner, and the installation was made by "Van." This method of installation prevents falling under the facade of precipitation and holds the wind.

Also, Planken may differ and by type of wood, from which it is made. Sometimes it is exotic parties that are not growing in our latitudes. Some unique characteristics does not have a tree, but at cost it is very much reflected.

The most popular among the consumers are planken from oak or larch. Of course, the oak is stronger and more expensive, but larch boards have more easy weight and cost. In addition, the indescribable smell of the needle is unable to repeat any exotic tree.

By the way, most of the finishing materials are made from the larch.

DPK.

The facade of the DPK, or the woods of the polymer composite, is rightfully considered the most reliable of all the options of the facade board. This is a relatively new material made from a tree-based mixed with polymers.

The finishing material, created on the basis of a wooded polymer composite, has a whole body of essential advantages that the other supply board does not have.

No need for additional processing and protection.
Wood base fully retains an external natural look.
Fully not sensitive to temperature drops and precipitation.
Does not need a regular reproduction.
Fireproof and does not support combustion.
High strength that allows you to use such a board and as an outdoor coating.

Of the minuses can be allocated, except that relatively high cost, but it is fully compensated by the positive qualities listed. The presence in the composition of the PCD polymer allows you to use this material in difficult conditions when the usual forest requires protective processing or simply not used.

Thermodoska.

In fact, it is not the name of the material, but the technology of wood processing. Most often, the thermal produce is made of larch, which is treated with high temperatures. As a result of which the tree fully retains the texture, but at the same time acquires a number of qualities that were not previously.

Elevated density.
Resistance to moisture and almost complete absence of swelling and thermal expansion.
The ability to use as a finishing material without additional processing with protective coatings.

The facade board can be thermally processed in any of the species listed above, except if it is unedged. This processing is reflected and at the final cost. The process is quite complicated and passes in several stages. A gradual increase in temperature in the chamber allows you to evenly dry the forest without causing it to deformation.

After that, the firing stage begins. As a result, wood fibers lose internal tension and harden. That is why the thermodilose does not have thermal extensions and does not absorb moisture.

Price ratio

Decking, deck board

Immediately I want to make a reservation that all prices presented are an exemplary rounding. Depending on the manufacturer and the region, they can differ significantly. This table sets the goal to show the approximate ratio of different materials.

Consider the facade boards on the example of the larch of the extra class:

I intended did not mention the unedged board in the table, as this is not a finishing material by definition, and is sold in cubic meters.

Important! Calculating the cost of the entire facade finish, do not forget about the components necessary for each option from those listed in the table.

Benefits of using wood for facade finishing

Probably the most important and weighty argument speaking in favor of a tree for many is its environmental friendliness. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine a more natural material. Even the DPK containing persistent polymers in its composition, first of all remains a tree.

If a desire to hesitate his own house of the billboard, they usually try to solve two main tasks.

First of all, it concerns atmospheric influences. Consequently, it is necessary to protect the walls of the building, for example, made using foam concrete. It is necessary to make reliable protection of the laid layers of the insulation.

Also, the building will get a beautiful, original and decorative look.

Cover house board: Some features

To make the lining house of the board, you will need finishing materials that must comply with the solution of these tasks. They have to make the house beautiful and provide reliable protection.

Horizontal covering around the window: A-sheathing Vansel, b - sheathing tanted brackets Vansel, B - half-pounded profiled covering, G is a pinned profiled cover, d - baseboard, E - without a base refrigeration board, W - Corner Corner Corner , and - the covering of the corners to the neutrals.

In most cases, the construction of a fastener frame is required to perform a wooden board. Certain exceptions are mounted panel houses. Such houses can be sewed directly through the mounted power frame.

Creating a frame depends on the material used, which will be shed walls.

Not the latter role is played by the types of fastening of future skin. The choice of fastening is influenced by the facade device. Sometimes its device does not have ventilation.

The design material for the sheath of the walls of the house is very often the board, which has two types. It can be edged into a certain size or unedged. It all depends on the design of the frame and applied materials. In some cases, wooden bars of different sizes are also used.

Make a trim at home, applying other materials, such as siding. It is installed on factory metal profiles.

However, you will be interested in the external covering of the building with a wooden cutting board or clapboard. Such a block house imitates the surface of the walls, they become similar on the walls of a chopped home.

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How the mount is performed

The cover of the house board (clapboard) begins with its lower part. The bottom item is installed in terms of level. It is attached to the frame, and the spike should turn out to be up. It is put on it the following product made in her groove.

It must be said that in some cases the elements are laid with difficulty. This is due to production defects, with the deformation that appeared, which originated during drying. From the length of the system, its uniform installation on the bottom board depends.

To put the element correctly, gaskets are made, for which a small piece of the same lining is taken. Through the laying in places where the gap was formed, clog the board.

You often hear the phrase "Cleaning Vangest."

This refers to the overlap of the inner structure with two outdoor details.

To trim the house, use 100 mm width products. The amount of the allen is equal to 25 mm on each side. In other words, the best distance from the front board to the inner is 150 mm.

This size must be set down to the entire perimeter of the trim. When the floor tightness is performed so that no gaps remain between the fitted trim and tiled floors, it is necessary to fix the additional board to the tiles and mount the screed. In this case, the cover of the house will turn into a kind of continuation of the base.

Before the cover of the house board begins, it is necessary to determine the length of the products themselves. Since later finishing works will be carried out, there is no need to withstand high accuracy.

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Internal boards, their installation and installation

The board is installed according to the tags pre-made. Fasteners are carried out in the middle of a metal nail. For the installation of such a trim, it is not necessary to use a novelty pistol.

But if the board fastening is performed with a self-tapping screw, a mechanical screwdriver will provide effective assistance. The elements located in the inner row are bonded by nails (80 mm), the same length should be self-tapping.

Before installing the product is measured and cut to suitable length. When the roof is trimmed, having a very large angle of inclination, you can immediately cut two or three elements.

When installing, you must not forget that the boards are installed by the "face" side out. On this side, the bodies have bending directed up, very much resemble a smile.

Fastening boards can be made using a nail gun. But to use such a tool, you need a certain experience. The newcomer is unlikely to be able to score nails exactly in a straight line. That is why it will be better to use a mechanical screwdriver.

Wedge-shaped boardsThe horizontally naval and braziness, in North America, are called Clapboard in North America. Such an outdoor finish of the house is very interesting - the walls of the building look and noble, and modern. The same notorious "Vinyl" often imitates this type of skin. Yes, and the protection of the walls in this case is very reliable - water is almost no chance to get into the cavity of the wall. However, all this is possible with one important condition - if you do it technically correctly.

Recently, many prefer polyvinyl chloride wood. In North America, the panel from this plastic is almost three times cheaper than wooden boards, it does not require much to work with the "vinyl" and does not require care. However, customers, middle-weight people, still prefer artificial material natural wood. We have been engaged in boards for many years and, believe me, we know the lot in this, at first glance, easy work. As in any case, we also have a whole arsenal of techniques, determined, allowing you to quickly and efficiently "dress" a house.

We begin the trim after fixing thermal insulation mats. First, we set the angular. For internal angles, we use the bars with a cross section of 25x50 mm or 30x30 mm [Fig. 1) - with smaller cross sections it is difficult to achieve the desired joint seal.

Outdoor anglesDepending on the circumstances, we do in different ways. The simplest way is to fill on the edges of the adjacent surfaces of the board with a cross section of 25x100 mm (Fig. 2a). In this case, in this case, we establish an approach with side faces of angular elements, which allows not to suffer with compounds of the Clapboard boards "on the US".

If the customer wants the corners to look more solid, we do somewhat differently (Fig. 26). First you feed the rail with a cross section of 25x75 mm, and then, after the end of the trim, we close the joints with wide (25x150 mm) boards. In addition to the external massiveness, such angles provide better waterproofing - and possible "flashers" in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints will be closed. True, there is in the last way and disadvantages - in the corners are formed by secluded places, which are very likely to make different insects. But here, as they say, the customer is always right, and our task is to prevent the possible consequences on time.

To minimize the possible boobing of boards, their ends in all cases we are thoroughly shuckat, because it is the fibers that are capillaries through which wood absorbs moisture. By lenght corner boards We are cut only after installing drain aprons.

The roof over the side walls usually has Svet (Fig. For). In this case, the top plating board we nourish the ignition with Sofit, and then additionally closes the angle with a decorative bar.

With end walls sometimes have to do differently (Fig. 36). FRONTON often does not have a sink, so here we do about the same as in the case of "solid" angles. On the top of the end wall you nail the rail with a cross section of 25x75 mm, the top row of the trim establish an online jack, and the seam is additionally closed wide (cross section of 25x150 mm) board.

Most often, we have to deal with wide (130 mm) boards (Fig. 4). When the trim, approximately 100 mm of surface remain open, since the cloepboard is installed. Why approximately? Yes, because this type of sheath is just good because it is possible to vary quite flexibly the amount of overlapping.

For example, we always try to calculate the ranks so that the lower edge located above the window of the row of the trim is at the level of the opening of the opening. Similarly, the board should pass continuously and without any cutouts. Note that the walls of the walls are greatly simplified and looks better if all windows are located at one height.

When the walls are trimmed with a cabboard - a homemade pattern. It can be made from a rather long rail with a cross section of 25x75 mm. By setting the workpiece on the drain apron, we mark on it the upper and lower cuts of windows and doors, and then, having calculated the number of rows, carry the markup from the template on the wall (Fig. 5). At the same time, it is necessary to place the upper edges of the calepboard, since the bottom will be closed by the already nailed boards of the lower row.

The calculation of the series consists in dividing the distance between the extreme (upper and lower) points of the surface of the surface at equal gaps (from 100 to 115 mm). In some cases, when the board installation step fails to be adjusted to the windows and doors, we act in accordance with the circumstances, for example, we do the appropriate cuts in the plates.

We work usually threesome: one saws, two nourish the trim. First, we mount the refrigeration board and close it with an aluminum apron, which is attached to the wall of the whip about 4 ... 5 cm. Then we cut the blanks for the object of interconnecting intervals.

On top of the apron, we bring a block of a cross section of 30x30 mm to set a single slope to all boards. This, of course, is 130 mm wide for boards. For a narrower chapboard, the lining thickness can be different. If a series of trim needs to be made up of some billets, under each joint we laid down the pieces of roofing or runneroid to eliminate the penetration of moisture through the seam in the cavity of the moan. Windows we seal around the perimeter with silicone sealant, and outside, around the openings, make an improvised pool framework.

And a few more advice to those who decided to see the house by wedge-shaped boards.

1 If one side is ominous, and the other - no, it is advisable to install Clapboard with a side of the outside. In this case, the primer and the paint hold on the surface better.
2 You should not navigate the plating board only at the top or bottom. In the first case, the board may be splits (and in the second - the capeboard will be uncontrolled expanding when the moisture is absorbed. Otimal variate - fastening the rotor with a step of 30 ... 45 cm.
3. We tried various wood species: cedar, red tree (mahagony), pine tree and spruce. Best of all, of course, cedar behaves. In Mahagony, it is difficult to drive a nail, without a breaking board, although in all other relationships the red tree is great - it does not breed, does not sit down and perfectly holds the finishing coating. With pine, we prefer not to work, because this wood is prone to splitting, warming, shrinkage. Spruce is rarely used, but in general it is quite suitable for outdoor skin.
4. It is better not to save on nails. Even galvanized nails, in our opinion, are not very good for the trim. When driving from the surface of the Hat, a fragile coating and a nail begins to rust, like the usual black. The most reliable nails are stainless steel. Of course, they are much more expensive than galvanized, but it is worth it.