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Pictures make themselves with their own hands. Technology LUT. Textolite - what is it? Properties and characteristics of the field of application and new features

Hello, dear blog readers. Now the street is wonderful, and I have a wonderful mood. Today I want to tell you about how you can make high-quality printed circuit boards at home.

] In general, the method of manufacturing printed circuit boards with laser Iron Not complicated. Its essence lies in the method of applying a protective pattern on foil textolit.

In our case, the protective pattern we first with the help of the printer are displayed on the photo paper, glossy to its side. Then, as a result of heating with iron, the softened toner is pressed to the surface of the textolite. For details of this action, read further ... But in the following articles you will have even more useful information from the field of radio amateur technologies so be sure to subscribe.

So proceed.

For the manufacture of board on technology, we will need:

  1. foil textolite (single or bilateral)
  2. laser printer
  3. scissors for metal
  4. glossy photo paper (Lomond)
  5. solvent (acetone, alcohol, gasoline, etc.)
  6. sandpaper (with small abrasive, the zero is quite suitable)
  7. drilling (usually a motor with a collet cartridge)
  8. toothbrush (very necessary thing, not only for the health of the teeth)
  9. ferric chloride
  10. actually, drawing board itself drawn in sprint-layout

Preparation of textolite

We take into the hands of the metal scissors and cut out a piece of textolite to the size of our future printed circuit board. Previously, I cut the textolite with a hacksaw of metal, but it turned out that it was not so comfortable compared to scissors, and the dust of the textolitic dust.

The resulting workpiece of the printed circuit board is a good skin with sandpaper - zero to the appearance of a uniform mirror glitter. Then we wet a piece of tissue with acetone, alcohol, or some other solvent, carefully wipe and degrease our fee.

Our task to clean our fee from oxides and "sweaty hands". Of course, after that, we try our fee do not touch.

Preparation of Picture Figure and Transfer to Textolol

Drawn in advance picture of the printed circuit board, we print on the photo paper. Moreover, we turn off the toner saving mode in the printer, and the drawing is displayed on the glossy side of the photo paper.

Now we take the iron from under the table and turn on the network, let it be heated. Freshly printed sheet of paper laying on the textolite pattern down and begin to stroke the iron. With a photo paper, unlike tracing, the substrates from self-keys are not necessary to ceremony, "Elzim" Iron before the start of the yellowing of the paper.

Here you can not be afraid to reap the fee, or overdo it with pressure. After we take this sandwich with a root paper and carry it into the bathroom. Under the jet of warm water, the pads of the fingers begin to scroll paper. Next, we take into the hands of a harvested toothbrush and carefully pass it on the surface of the board. Our task is to contempt a white chalk layer from the surface of the drawing.

We succeed in the fee and under the bright lamp checkered.

Often the chalk layer is moving from the first time with a toothbrush, but it happens that this is not enough. In this case, you can use the tape. White fibers stick to the isolent leaving our scarf clean.

Etching board

To prepare a grassy solution, we will need a chlorine iron FECL3.

This miracle powder in our radio car car costs about 50 rubles. We pour into non-metallic vessels and fall asleep there with chlorine iron. Typically, three parts of the water take one part of FECL3. Next, immerse our fee and give her time.

The etching time depends on the thickness of the foil, water temperature, freshness of the cooked solution. The more hot solution, the faster the etching process will pass, but at the same time in hot water there is a chance to damage the protective drawing. Also, the etching process is accelerated when stirring the solution.

Some adapt to this "Bulbuiler" from the aquarium or fasten the vibromotor from the phone. Remove the etching fee and rinse under the jet of water. The etched solution merge into the jar and hide under the bath, the main thing is that the wife did not see.

This solution will then come in handy. The etched scarf clean the toner from the protective layer. I use acetone for this, but it seems like alcohol or gasoline is also not bad.

Drilling board

The etched and purified fee needs the drilling, as it does not always have the possibility of using surface mounting. For drilling the board, I have a slight florid car. It is a motor type Motor with a collet cartridge planted on the shaft. I took it in a radio car market for 500r. But I think you can apply any other motor for this, for example from a tape recorder.

Drilling fee with a sharp drill, trying to preserve perpendicularity. Perpendicularity is especially important in the manufacture of bilateral boards. It is not required to drag holes for the drilling, as the holes in the foil were formed during the etching automatically.

We take place on the board with a hule, removing burrs after the drillings, and are preparing for the congestion of our fee.

Logging

I try to rant my fees, and do it for several reasons:

  • The listed fee is more rack to corrosion, and in a year you will not see tracks of rust on your device.
  • The solder layer on the printed pattern increases the thickness of the conductive layer, the resistance of the conductor is reduced.
  • At a pre-listed fee, it is easier to attach radio gatherings, prepared surfaces contribute to high-quality soldering.

Degrease fee and clean from oxide. We use acetone, and then literally for a second, having fooled into a solution of chlorine iron. The porous fee is plentiful to the flux. Next, get a soldering iron more powerful and, by typing a small amount of solder on a sting, fast movements go through the paths of our printed pattern. It remains only to walk a little emery paper in the drawing, and result in a beautiful, shiny scarf.

Where can I buy

Where can I buy foil textolitol? But however, not only textolit but also other tools for amateur industries.

Currently, I do not have any problems with this, as in my city there are several points of decent radio markets. There I also buy textolit and all that is required.

At one time, when in my city there was no normal radio log, I ordered all materials, tools and radio components in the online store. One of these online stores where you can find textolite and not only this is the gearbox, I'm even.

Prints to order

There are situations when there is a picture of the printed circuit board, but absolutely I do not want to face technological troubles and the printed circuit board is as needed. Or it happens that it is not against try, comprehend all the sacraments of this process, but there is no time for evil, and it does not know what will lead to (the first result is not always close to the ideal) in this case you can do it easier, you can also get a qualitative result.

So attention !!! If you are interested in making printed circuit boards to order, then be sure to read!

Well, here we got acquainted with the way of making printed circuit boards with your own hands at home. Before subscribe to new articles because there will be a lot of interesting and useful.

In addition, a relatively recently appeared another progressive way to subscribe through the form of email service service, this method is notable for the fact that each signatory receives a gift !!!And this gift will undoubtedly appreciate any radio amateur. So people subscribe and get nice bonuses, so welcome.

So create your own devices, do printed circuit boards, but technology LUT. It will help you.

Sincerely, Vladimir Vasilyev.

I suggest to see a good selection of videos for each stage of LUT - technology.

Printed circuit board - This is a dielectric base, on the surface and in the amount of which conductive tracks are applied in accordance with the electrical circuit. The printed circuit board is designed for mechanical mounting and electrical connection with each other by soldering the conclusions installed on it electronic and electrical products.

Operations for cutting a billet from a fiberglass, drilling of holes and etching the printed circuit board to obtain current-carrying tracks regardless of the method of applying a picture on the printed circuit board are performed by the same technology.

Manual application method
Tracks of printed circuit board

Preparation of template

The paper on which the printed circuit board is drawn is usually thin and for more accurate drilling of the holes, especially in the case of using a manual self-made drill, so that the drill does not learn to the side, it is required to make it more dense. To do this, glue the pattern of the printed circuit board for more dense paper or thin dense cardboard with any glue, such as PVA or moment.

Cutting blanks

The billet of the foil fiberglass of the appropriate size is selected, the printed circuit board is applied to the workpiece and is described around the perimeter with a marker, a soft simple pencil or risks with a sharp object.

Next, the fibercstolite is cut according to the applied lines with scissors for metal or cut off with a metal with a metal. Cut with scissors faster, and no dust. But it is necessary to take into account that when cutting with scissors, the glasskestolit is very bent, which the strength of the coppe foil deteriorates somewhat and if the elements are required, the tracks can be compressed. Therefore, if the board is large and with very thin tracks, it is better to cut off with the help of a handcraft for metal.

A printed circuit board pattern is glued on the cut blank using glue moment, four drops of which are applied in the corners of the workpiece.

Since glue is captured in just a few minutes, you can immediately begin drilling holes under radio components.

Drilling holes

Drilling holes is best with the help of a special mini drilling machine with a carbide drill with a diameter of 0.7-0.8 mm. If there is no mini boring machine in the presence, then you can drill holes with a low-power drill with a simple drill. But when working a universal manual drill, the number of broken drills will depend on the hardness of your hand. One drill is definitely not bypassed.

If the drill is not able to clamp, then it is possible to wrap its shank with several layers of paper or one layer of the emery skirt. It is possible to wind the tight turn to the tweet of a thin metal wire to the shank.

After the end of the drilling is checked, all the holes are drilled. It is clearly visible if you look at the printed circuit board on the lumen. As can be seen, no missed holes.

Application of topographic pattern

In order for the foil places on the fiberglass, which will be conductive tracks, protect when etching from destruction, they must be covered with a mask resistant to dissolution in aqueous solution. For the convenience of drawing tracks, they are better to pre-stand with a soft simple pencil or marker.

Before applying markup, you must definitely remove the traces of the glue, which was glued in the printed circuit board. Since the glue does not harde it hard, it can be easily removed by pulling your finger. The foil surface should also be defentuling with a vehicle with any means, such as acetone or white alcohol (so called purified gasoline), can be used by any detergent for washing dishes, for example Ferry.


After marking tracks of the printed circuit board, you can proceed to apply their drawing. For drawing tracks, any waterproof enamel is well suited, for example, alkyd enamel of the PF series, diluted to suitable consistency with a solvent White alcohol. Draw tracks by different tools - glass or metal raysfededer, medical needle and even toothpick. In this article, I will tell you how to draw the tracks of printed circuit boards using a drawing range and balletics, which are designed for drawing on paper ink.


Previously, there were no computers and all drawings were drawn by simple pencils on Watman and then translated into a tracing in a tracker with a copy of copies.

Drawing patterns start with contact pads that are painted by a ballet. To do this, you need to adjust the gap of sliding sponges of the Ballerinka Rysfeheder to the desired line width and to set the circle diameter to perform adjustment with the second screw with a raysfededer from the axis of rotation.

Further, the ballerica raysfeder for a length of 5-10 mm is filled with paint brushes. To apply a protective layer on a printed circuit board, the paint of the PF or GF brand is best suited, as it slowly dries and allows you to safely work. The paint of the brand of the NC can also be applied, but it is difficult to work with it, as it dries quickly. The paint should be good and not spread. Before drawing, the paint needs to be dissolved to a liquid consistency, adding a small solvent into it with intensive stirring, and trying to draw on the string of fiberglass. To work with the paint it is more convenient to pour it into a vial from a manicure varnish, in the twist of which a brush is installed, resistant to solvents.

After adjusting the ballerica raysfededer and obtain the required lines parameters, you can proceed to apply contact pads. For this, the sharp part of the axis is inserted into the hole and the base of the ballerina turns into a circle.


With the correct configuration of the flight and the desired consistency of the paint around the holes on the printed circuit board, the circles are perfectly round. When the Ballerinka begins to draw badly, the remnants of refrigerated paint and the raysfededer are removed from the closure of the raysfeder. To distinguish all the holes on this printed circle circle, you needed only two refills of the raysfeneder and no more than two minutes of time.

When round contact pads are drawn on the board, you can start drawing the conductive tracks using a manual raysfededer. Preparation and adjustment of the manual raisfeceder does not differ from the preparation of the balletics.

The only thing that will optionally need is a flat ruler, with a piece of rubber with glued on one of its sides, with a thickness of 2.5-3 mm, so that the ruler does not slide when working and the fiberglass, without touching the line, could freely go under it. It is best suited as a ruler wooden triangle, it is stable and at the same time can serve when drawing a printed circuit board for hand.

In order for the circuit board when drawing tracks does not slide, it is desirable to place it on the sandpaper sheet, which is two rounded paper sides of the elaborate sheet.

If, when painting tracks and circles, they sparred, then you should not make any measures. You need to give paint on the printed circuit board to dry up to the state when it will not be packed when touched and with the help of the knife is the unnecessary piece of the pattern. In order for the paint faster to dry the fee, you need to be located in a warm place, for example, in winter on the heating battery. In the summer season - under the rays of the sun.

When the picture on the printed circuit board is fully applied and fixed all defects can be moved to its etching.

Printing Figure Technology
Using a laser printer

When printing on the laser printer, it is transferred by electrostatics formed by a toner image from a photo of a drum, on which the laser beam painted the image, on the paper carrier. Toner is held on paper, keeping the image, only at the expense of electrostatics. To secure toner, the paper rolled between rollers, one of which is a heat supply heated to a temperature of 180-220 ° C. Toner melts and penetrates the paper texture. After cooling, the toner hardens and is firmly held on paper. If the paper is heated again to 180-220 ° C, the toner will again become liquid. This is a toner property and is used to transfer the image of current-carrying tracks to the printed circuit board at home.

After the file with the pattern of the printed circuit board is ready, you must print it using a laser printer on a paper medium. Note, the image of the circuit board pattern for this technology should be viewed from the part side of the details! The inkjet printer is not suitable for these purposes, as it works on another principle.

Preparation of a paper template for transferring pictures on a printed circuit board

If you print a picture of a printed circuit board on ordinary paper for office equipment, then due to the porous structure, the toner will deeply penetrate into the body of the paper and when the toner is transferred to the printed circuit board, most of it will remain in paper. In addition, there will be difficulties with the removal of paper from the printed circuit board. We'll have to warm it up for a long time. Therefore, paper that does not have a porous structure, for example, a photographic paper, a substrate from self-adhesive films and labels, cottage, pages from glossy magazines are needed to prepare a photo shop.

As a paper for printing the pattern of printed circuit board, I use tracing from old stocks. Carticle is very thin and printing the template directly on it is impossible, it is fluttered in the printer. To solve this problem, it is necessary before the seal to a piece of cartridges of the desired size in the corners of any glue on the droplets and glue the A4 office paper sheet.

This technique allows you to print the pattern of the printed circuit board even on the finest paper or film. In order for the thickness of the pattern of the pattern to be maximum, before printing, you need to configure the "printer properties", turning off the economical printing mode, and if such a function is not available, then select the cooler paper type, such as cardboard or something like that. It is quite possible from the first time a good imprint will not work, and you will have to experiment a little, pickup the best print mode of the laser printer. In the path obtained, the track drawing and contact pads should be dense without skipping and lubrication, since the retouching at this technological stage is useless.

It remains to trim the cushion of the contour and the pattern for the manufacture of the printed circuit board will be ready and you can proceed to the next step, transferring the image to the fiberglass.

Transfer pattern with paper on fiberglass

The transfer of the pattern of the printed circuit board is the most responsible stage. The essence of the technology is simple, paper, side of the printed pattern of the paths of the printed circuit board is applied to the copper foil fideline and pressing with a large force. Next, this sandwich is heated to a temperature of 180-220 ° C and then cooled to room floor. The paper is moving, and the drawing remains on the printed circuit board.

Some craftsmen offer to carry a drawing from paper on a printed circuit board using electricity. I tried such a way, but the result was obtained unstable. It is difficult to ensure simultaneously heating toner to the desired temperature and uniform press of paper to the entire surface of the printed circuit board when solidifying toner. As a result, the drawing is transferred not fully and spaces remain in the pattern of circuit board tracks. Perhaps the iron was not breathing enough, although the regulator was set to the maximum heating of the iron. Update the iron and reconfigure the thermostat did not want. Therefore, I took advantage of a different technology, less laborious and providing a 100% result.

The billet of the foil fiberglass is cut into the size of a printed circuit board and a degreased acetone, glued along the corners of a traction with a pattern printed on it. I put on the track on top, for a more uniform clamp, the heels of the leaves of office paper. The resulting package put on a sheet of plywood and topped with a sheet of the same size. This entire sandwich is covered with maximum strength in clamps.


It remains to heat the made sandwich to a temperature of 200 ° C and cool. For heating, electrophovka with a temperature regulator is perfect. It is enough to place the created design in the closet, wait for a set of a given temperature and after half an hour to remove the cooling board.


If there is no powerover at the disposal, you can use the gas oven, adjusting the temperature with the gas supply handle along the built-in thermometer. If there is no thermometer or it is faulty, a woman can help, the position of the knob of the regulator is suitable, in which the pies bake.


Since the ends of plywood jumped, just in case it was published by their additional clamps. To avoid a similar phenomenon, it is better to clamp between metal sheets with a thickness of 5-6 mm. You can drill holes in their corners and clamp the printed circuit boards, pull the plates with screws with nuts. M10 will be enough.

After half an hour, the design cooled enough to solve the toner, the board can be extracted. At the first glance at the extracted printed circuit board it becomes clear that the toner switched from the tracing fee perfectly. Tighting tightly and evenly adjacent along the lines of printed tracks, rings of contact pads and labeling letters.

Cataca easily broke away from almost all circuit board tracks, the drain remains were removed using a wet fabric. But all, it did not cost without spaces in several places on the printed tracks. This can happen as a result of the non-uniformity of the printer's print or the remaining dirt or corrosion on the foil glassstolite. Spaces can be painted with any waterproof paint, manicure varnish or nourish the marker.

To check the suitability of the marker for retouching the circuit board, you need to draw it on paper line and paper to moisten with water. If the lines do not blurry, it means that the retouching marker is suitable.


Pour the printed circuit board at home is best in a solution of chlorine iron or hydrogen peroxide with lemon acid. After etching, the toner from the printed tracks is easily removed by a tampon dipped in acetone.

Then the holes are drilled, conductive paths and contact pads are pushed, radio elements are searched.


This species took a circuit board with radio components installed on it. It turned out a power supply and switching unit for an electronic system that complements the ordinary toilet with the function of the bidet.

Package etching

To remove the copper foil from unprotected sections of foil fiberglass in the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, radio amateurs usually use a chemical method. The printed circuit board is placed in the etching solution and due to the chemical reaction, the copper, unprotected mask, dissolves.

Recipes of coarse solutions

Depending on the availability of components, radio amateurs are used by one of the solutions shown in the table below. Therail solutions are located in the order of popularity of their use by radio amateurs at home.

Name of solution Structure number Cooking technology Dignity disadvantages
Hydrogen peroxide plus lemon acid Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) 100 ml In a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide to dissolve citric acid and cook salt Accessibility of components, high etching speed, safety Not stored
Lemon Acid (C 6 H 8 O 7) 30 g
Salt Salt (NACL) 5 g
Hydrochloride Water (H 2 O) 300 ml In warm water dissolve chlorine iron Sufficient etching rate, reuse Low accessibility of chlorine iron
Chlorine Iron (FECL 3) 100 g
Hydrogen peroxide plus hydrochloric acid Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) 200 ml In 3% hydrogen peroxide solution pour 10% hydrochloric acid High etching speed, reuse High accuracy required
Hydrochloric acid (HCl) 200 ml
Aqueous solution of copper Water (H 2 O) 500 ml In hot water (50-80 ° C) to dissolve the cook salt, and then copper Accessibility of components Poisonousness of copper mood and slow etching, up to 4 hours
Copper KUP person (CUSO 4) 50 g
Salt Salt (NACL) 100 g

Pour printed circuit board in metal dishes are not allowed. To do this, use glass, ceramics or plastic containers. Dispose of the spent etching solution is allowed in the sewer.

Fravic solution from hydrogen peroxide and citric acid

A solution based on hydrogen peroxide with citric acid dissolved in it is the safest, affordable and fast. Of all the listed solutions for all criteria, this is the best.


Hydrogen peroxide can be purchased in any pharmacy. Sold in the form of a liquid 3% solution or tablets called hydroperite. To obtain a liquid 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide from hydroperite, it is necessary in 100 ml of water to dissolve 6 tablets weighing 1.5 grams.

Crystal citric acid is sold at any grocery store, packaged in bags weighing 30 or 50 grams. Craw salt will be found in any house. 100 ml of the pool solution is enough to remove the copper foil with a thickness of 35 μm with a printed circuit board with an area of \u200b\u200b100 cm 2. The spent solution is not stored and cannot be reused. By the way, citric acid can be replaced by acetic, but because of her caustic smell, it will take a printed circuit board in the outdoor.

Chlorine Fravic Solution

The second poorer solution is an aqueous solution of chlorine iron. Previously, he was the most popular, as in any industrial enterprise, the chlorine iron was easy to get.

The etching solution is not required to the temperature, etched rather quickly, but the etching rate is reduced as chlorine iron spending in solution.


The chlorine iron is very hygroscopic and therefore from the air quickly absorbs water. As a result, yellow liquid appears at the bottom of the bank. This does not affect the quality of the component and such a chlorine iron is suitable for the preparation of the pools.

If the used chlorine iron solution is stored in a hermetic container, it can be used repeatedly. It is subject to regeneration, sufficiently pour iron nails into the solution (they immediately cover the loose layer of copper). If you get on any surface leaves hard yellow spots. Currently, a chlorine iron solution for the manufacture of printed circuit boards is applied less often due to its high cost.

Polish solution based on hydrogen and hydrochloric acid

An excellent etching solution provides high etching rate. Hydrochloric acid with intensive stirring is poured into a 3% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution with thin flowing. Pour hydrogen peroxide into acid is unacceptable! But due to the presence in the etching solution of hydrochloric acid, when the board is etched, it is necessary to observe greater caution, as the solution corps the skin of the hands and spoils everything to which it falls. For this reason, the etching solution with hydrochloric acid at home is not recommended.

Copper Machine

The method of manufacturing printed circuit boards with the use of copper sulfate is usually used in case of the impossibility of making the pools based on other components due to their inaccessibility. Copper vigoros is a kerifier and is widely used to combat pests in agriculture. In addition, the injury time of the printed circuit board is up to 4 hours, while it is necessary to maintain a solution temperature of 50-80 ° C and to provide a permanent solution to the surface of the surface.

Printing technology etching technology

To etching the board in any of the above film solutions, glass, ceramic or plastic dishes are suitable, such as dairy products. If the suitable size of the capacity did not turn out, you can take any box of thick paper or cardboard suitable size and fasten it with a polyethylene film. The container is poured into the container and the printed circuit board is tightly in its surface. Due to the strength of the surface tension of the liquid and a small weight, the fee will float.

For convenience to the center of the board with glue, you can glue a plug from a plastic bottle. The cork will simultaneously serve as a handle and float. But here there is a danger that air bubbles are formed on the board and in these places copper will not break.


To ensure uniform straightening of copper, you can put a circuit board on the bottom of the container up the pattern and periodically swing the bath with your hand. After some time, depending on theratile solution, plots will begin to appear without copper, and then copper will dissolve completely on the entire surface of the printed circuit board.


After the final dissolution of copper in the etching solution, the printed circuit board is removed from the bath and is thoroughly washed under the jet of flow water. The toner is removed from the tracks with a rare moistened in acetone, and the paint is well removed by the rag moistened in the solvent, which was added to the paint to obtain the desired consistency.

Preparation of a printed circuit board for radio components

The next step is to prepare the printed circuit board for the installation of radio elements. After removing the paint boards, the tracks need to be treated with circular motions of small emery paper. It is not necessary to get involved, because the copper tracks are thin and you can easily run them. Just just a few passes with an abrasive with a weak clamp.


Next, the current-handing tracks and contact pads are covered with alcohol-rosephole flux and pour a soft solder to the eclectric soldering iron. So that the holes on the printed circuit board are not delayed by the solder, it is necessary to take a little on the sting of the soldering iron.


After the manufacture of the printed circuit board is completed, it will only be inserted into the intended positions of radio components and pour their conclusions to the sites. Before soldering legs, it is necessary to moisten the alcohol-rosphole flux. If the legs of radio components are long, then they need to trim it up to rubbing to the length of the protrusion above the surface of the printed circuit board 1-1.5 mm. After the installation is completed, it is necessary to remove the remnants of rosin with any solvent - alcohol, white alcohol or acetone. They all successfully dissolve rosin.

On the embodiment of this simple scheme of the capacitive relay from wiring tracks for the manufacture of a printed circuit board before creating a valid sample, there are no more than five hours, much less than on the layout of this page.

Reinforced fabrics. Thermoreactive synthetic resins play the role of a binder element. And it is not so important what kind of textolite is considered. What it is, understanding quite easily even by description

Some parameters and properties

Depending on which nature the fibers are possessed, the textolites are divided into several groups.

  1. Basaltotextolites based on
  2. Carbon-texts from carbon.
  3. Asbotextolites with asbestos fibers.
  4. Boxes of glass fibers of different types of glass fibers.
  5. Organotextolites of artificial and
  6. Actually, textolites, fibers here cotton

There are other varieties. Sarthen, satin, linen - types of weave, which differ the threads themselves. Various surface density, thickness, number of threads per unit length in the direction of the base and duck of the fabric, the structure and thickness of the thread or harness are different. There is a special technology due to which the textolite is obtained. What it is, we have already found out.

If the interlayer strength should be particularly high, the tissues of a multilayer type are used. Sometimes there are products where fibers are made of several varieties of materials.

What else to pay attention to?

It also matters the technology of manufacturing, the number and properties of the binder, the characteristics of the tissue itself, the nature of the fibers - the parameters that determine what qualities the textolose itself will be possessed. As for the production process itself, it is the basis of a layer-by-layer winding or laying of tissues, when a binder is applied on the mandrel on the form of the product. Foil textolite is made in the same way. Next happens. In addition, the textolite plates, stoves or sheets necessarily pass mechanical processing.

Not only tissues, but also binding elements playing the role of impregnation for filler can be diverse. Thermoreactive most often perform this role, foil textolite - no exception.

About the merits and other parameters

There are a number of qualities inherent in such material as textolite. What it is, it is easy to understand from the description of its characteristics.

  1. Operating temperature range - from -40 to +105 degrees, if the current frequency is about 50 Hz, persists
  2. Textolite is a good dielectric, thanks to which it becomes an indispensable assistant in the electrical and energy industry.
  3. Ease of mechanical processing.
  4. High strength.
  5. Low density.
  6. Low friction coefficient.

Additional Information

Textolite sheet is used in many spheres of vital activity. It can be structural, antifriction, friction, electrical insulating, thermal insulating and radio engineering material.

In many respects, it helps to easily carry mechanical loads, even quite serious. So, especially widespread use is in the electrical engineering industry. On the basis of the textolite, various parts are manufactured with structural purposes.

Applications and new opportunities

For the production of rings, the sleeves use the diverse textolitol. What it is, you can understand even without special dictionaries. In shock absorption panels and gaskets, you can also see this material.

In speeds, in the distribution mechanisms of various engines, the gearboxes are often noticeable for conical and cylindrical gears based on such material as textolit. Price happens different. Elements of centrifugal pumps, turbines are textolite bearings. Textolite can successfully replace Getinax as a material for the production of electrical insulating parts. The bases for printed circuit boards made of textolite are made in electronics. In addition, in modern tournaments it is the textolit that becomes the basis for the manufacture of weapons - this application is quite unexpected.

A little about brands

There is another type of textolite, which is called asbiloplasty and allocate separately. This is fire-resistant and durable material that can withstand heating to +250 degrees. Differs in chemical resistance, anti-corrosion and electrical insulating properties. The type of binding substance and filler determines in many respects, which characteristics will be to have a particular product. For example, high acid resistance attached materials from anthofillite asbestos. The method of manufacture and degree of filling can also have an impact on the existing parameters. In each case, everything is determined individually, this is worth tracing separately.

Homemade textolit


Here I will tell you how to make textolit with my own hands. The material is very useful. It is durable, does not absorb moisture, durable, easily processed.
In essence, it is plastic, but plastic reinforced fabric fibers, which attaches not only additional strength, but also beauty, that's just about the beauty of the resulting material we will try to take care.

So from what the textolite consists is glue (epoxy resin) and cotton fabric. I got into my head to be frowning with the manufacture of textolite when I searched from what would make a handle for a knife, I came across a piece of ordinary factory textolite, I think, a good handle will come out, but the color and texture did not suit me at all, so I decided to try to do something more pretty
Epoxy resin is easy to buy, the first fabric that came to me in the head it was old jeans, plus they were still on the one hand and with the other white, then it turned out an interesting picture similar to a tree drawing.
I took jeans cut into pieces of size I needed, then spread the food film on the table, cut off 2 wooden bars so that there is a future textolite to hold the future textolit between them, wrapped them with a food film, then dressed disposable medical rubber gloves and began to prepare epoxy glue. I was preparing Epox in a conventional tin can. Most people neglect the instructions written on a package with epoxy resin. Try to add a hardener more, getting better, so that no one considers it faster, it does not consider it necessary, but with an increase in the number of hardener, the glue though hardening faster, but becomes a stone, more fragile, less elastic, and therefore suffer strength, except than slower Holding will occur, the better the glue is impregnated with fabric. Now about heating - the heated components of the glue are not only easier to remove from the vials and mix, heated glue will be better to impregnate the fabric. In general, it is advisable to keep glue in the gluing process in a slightly heated state. I will immediately say I underestimated the absorbency of the tissue and I had to mix the glue 2 times, it is theoretically undesirable, for however trying to accurately dispense the components of the proportion, they will most likely be slightly different, but as a result, the properties of the final product are just different, but I don't think in practice So that it had any noticeable difference, but nevertheless.
Let's return to our epox cooked in a tin can
I took one slices of jeans, pokunal in a jar with glue slightly "fireing" in the glue passed between my fingers, to remove the excess glue and put on one of the wrapped food splices of bars. I put the wrong side to the invalid, faithful to the front, in my case it did the future picture of the details larger and clearing .. In this case, we must try, so that there were no air bubbles between the flap ..
In general, it is possible to include fantasy on the full and use various combinations of tissues, combinations of layers, you can try to impregnate anything. Imagine one of your households walks around the house with the words "Where are my favorite warm socks" and you shrugged with a satisfied view, turn a knife with a handle from homemade textolite in your hands and insert it into the sheath, which in the past life were whose boots :) ) Or, say, you can make a handle for a knife from any of your clothes, which has some kind of symbolic meaning for you, but which you never go, leads a knife with a story, something like a talisman;)
Putting the last flap I left at rest at 12. For compression, it is also possible to use clamps or drums from the hole in the bars to pull them on the bolts, or making the rings from a durable rope and dressing them on the edges of the bars to pull them with a twist, using, say, two nails at 150mm. In general, who has what opportunities and to whom is more convenient.
After complete hardening, the textolite is ready for use in any project.
I got this such a handle