Learning to solder SMD. Fast sprinkling SMD components using an iron how the SMD component otpa

When some instrument fails, it is not necessary to immediately throw it into the garbage. If you are interested in electronics and radio engineering, it will be wiser to drop the working elements of the chip. Suddenly, in the future you will need a condenser, a transistor or a resistor if you decide to do. In this article we will tell you how to drop radio components from the board so as not to damage anything.

What is needed for this?

There are many devices for feeding parts. Of course, it is not necessary to do a radio amateur without a soldering iron, which will be the main assistant in this matter. However, in addition to the soldering iron, in order to fall out an element, you will need:

You also need to prepare a workplace. It should be with good lighting. It is best if the lamp is above the workplace so that the light fell vertically, without creating shadows.

Methods of dismantling

So, first we will tell about the most popular technology - how to fall out the part of the soldering iron board without additional devices. After that, briefly consider simpler methods.

If you want to fall out an electrolytic capacitor, it is enough to capture it with a tweezers (or a crocodile), warm the 2 output and quickly, but gently remove them from the board.

With the transistors of things in the same way. We drip on all 3 output by the solder and remove the radio metal from the board.

As for resistors, diodes and non-polar capacitors, very often their legs bend during the soldering on the reverse side of the board, which is difficult when evaporated without additional devices. In this case, it is recommended to warm up one conclusion at first and with a crocodile, with a little effort to pull out part of the part from the scheme (the leg must raise). Then the same procedure is carried out with the second conclusion.

We looked at the technique when there is nothing at hand except the soldering iron. But if you have acquired a set of needles, then the element will be even easier to fall: first heal the soldering iron contact, after which we dress the needle of a suitable diameter (it should pass through the hole in the chip) and wait until the solder cools down. After that, we take the needle and get a bare output, which can easily withdraw. If there are several legs with radio components, we also act - warm the contact, wear the needle, waiting and removing.

Everything we told about in this article, you can visually see on the video in which the technology of feeding elements from the board is provided:

By the way, instead of special needles, you can even use the usual who go with the syringe. However, in this case, initially you need to break the end of the needle so that it is at a right angle.

Drop the part with dismantling braid is also not difficult. Before starting work, wet the end of the winding of the alcohol-rosephole flux. After that, put the braid at the scene of the dropping (on the solder) and warm the sketch of the soldering iron. As a result, the preheated solder should absorb the braid, which will allow to release the conclusions of radio components.

With the tin cover of things in the same way, the spring is divided, the contact is heated, after which the tip is brought to the molten solder and press the button. A vacuum is created, which retracts the solder inside the tin cover.

That's all that I wanted to tell you about how to fall radio components from the board at home. We hope for the techniques and video lessons were useful for you and interesting. Finally, I would like to note that you can drop the elements from the chip by a construction hairdryer, but we do not advise you to do so. Hair dryer can damage the details located nearby, as well as the one you want to extract!

Interesting

It happened here the other day one trouble - diped the power track on the UART-USB converter board (attiny2313). It was necessary to replace the burnt track with a jumper wiring. It seems that everything works as it should, but this posting began to annoy me. I decided to update the converter's scarf under this case, so to say prof-image to version number 2. And once the microcontroller can be added and rearranged and rearranged on a new board. Since I promised to show how to get enough, then, at the same time, I fulfill my promise.

Desoldering SMD components.
Of course, for SMD components, the best tool is a hairdryer, but for the lack of a hair dryer, it is necessary to get out to be turned out to be twisted. There are many methods, ranging from the manufacture of special soldering iron nozzles (to warm all the legs at the same time), the use of mica, chemical etching and ending with exotic methods, like warming up the board with a closely attached powerful spotlight. Most of these methods do not differ in particular humanity to the board and tracks. They are obstaciously overheated and become poorly suitable for re-use.
For myself, I chose the method as possible as possible for both the board and tracks and the exhaust components. In addition, for this method you do not need any special materials or technologies.

Materials Tools:
1 Special "braid" to remove solder. Nothing is not a problem - is not a deficit. Can be replaced by the beam of thin wires (of course not oxidized);
2 Liquid flux. I buy a flux with the name F5. Can be replaced by alcohol-rosin, but the effect will be worse;
3 Needle or thin awl, tweezers.

Sweep technology as follows:
1 Abundantly wet the flux, both the feet legs and the "braid" itself;
2 With the help of "braid" and the soldering iron, we remove the solder as possible. This will require several passes. Do not save "braid"!
3 After the solder is removed as much as possible, proceed to breaking the legs from the tracks. This is done in the following way: to fly the needle as a lever, we slightly use the leg, leaning on the neighboring. Of great effort is not necessary - the legs are very easily with a characteristic click. This procedure is done with all legs. If any leg is not amenable to - do not, we leave as it is;
4 After all the legs are torn off, the chip will not hold anything - just take it from the board. If several legs did not break away from the tracks - nothing terrible grabbing the housing with tweezers (or we use the seed) and gently adjusting a small force we tear off.

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054-drop SMD components.: 29 comments

Hryam.
Of course, it is much easier to get a hairdryer, if there are additional nozzles so that there is a song in general. Gray - you take off. Your method is slightly vandal, it is quite possible to tear off with the foot of the chip and the track under it, well if only the chip is needed, and if on the contrary ... ...
Getchiper Author Record
In this I agree. But this is less than a vandal method than for example, to fill the rosin or a high-spirited spotlight or an industrial hairdryer.
We need to understand that this method is suitable only for single feeding if you have it often happens - the soldering hairdryer is required!
Semleik
And also, SMD elements are only on computer boards ??
Getchiper Author Record
Why only on computer boards? They are used very wide. Manufacturers are more profitable to make electronic equipment on SMD components by reasons:
- SMD is cheaper
- under SMD you do not need to drill holes in fees (it greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of production)
- SMD less place and stored in convenient ribbons for automatic mounting
- SMD easier to mount machine guns

For the same reasons, besides the last item, for radio amateurs, it is also more profitable to apply SMD components
Kosmogon.
Greetings. And what hair dryer will advise to work? What brand, type. Not only to fall out, but also to solder. Fan in the handle, in the block? What is better or different? What is the price, in what limits about?
Getchiper Author Record
I will not say anything on the hair dryer - I don't have anything. I wonder the soldering iron.
Anatoliy.

Hairdryer Rulez !!
And even steeper technological convection oven 😀
It's just no words alone emotions! More than positive
I tried somehow sake a maternity to peel. Dried put the thermostat for 290, it was blocked bored. I quickly took out the board and right in the frame about the edge of the open cardboard box. Batz !! All the details of Tama 🙂
And you are just a fairy tale. I smeared pasta. Put the detail. Wrapped the fee. Chose profile. Turned on. 30 sec. Bicked took out. Cooled, washed back. All items strictly in the center of the site. All at one height.
With a well-known skill, you can collect from household electrophovka 🙂
AUI2002.
It is rumored that instead of the oven you can take a few powerful halogen spotlights. Also nothing fry.
Anatoliy.
It turns out IC. You still need to control the temperature. We have guys made from the household oven. Microcontroller 4 thermocouples. And how is it ??? Well, IR sensor from the motion detector.
Differences with industrial did not notice. Is that in price!
Getchiper Author Record
Wow is already industrial technologies! Although the advantages of the stove already see (even for small boards).
AUI2002.
Well, then it's easier to buy a cheap autoclave stove (used in chemical laboratories) a new low-temperature or old high-temperature (high-temperature is heated somewhere to 1000 Celsius, but over time "losing a grip" and do not hear above 400-500. They are usually They write off or sell for snot.)

The advantage over the oven is a small size (30x20x40cm) and the built-in heating speed control system.
Anatoliy.

Logical 🙂
But this is not everywhere available! I would have extracted such. On the glass conductive coating apply. There you just need 400s.

Yes, even when soldering, it is important not the speed and the so-called temperature profile. Which must be strictly withstanding.
Another important part of the frame there. In which the board is fixed. It should be possible to remove it from the oven as in cold condition and in hot. Moreover, the demon jesters. Otherwise, the details are squealing.
AUI2002.

In them, as a rule, there are 1-2 pairs of guide (salazzo) for them the frame is fairly easy to combine.
And about the temperature profile, so such stoves are just "sharpened" under the uniform heating of the entire volume.
Anatoliy.

Well, what should I try 🙂 Do you understand the volunteer for the experiment? The powerful trinistor MK and 4 thermocouples and you will be happy to be able to organize for a sharp discharge of temperature. And the suitability is easy to determine. Put the thermocouple warm at maximum power up to 300Grads then turn off sharply and build a profile in seconds heating cooling. Then compare with the recommended soldering. There are practically in any dataschete on SMD detail. And aware of the fitness for alteration.
IMHO with soldering need to sharply heat and smell so cool
Zagzag.
Here I was looking for info about the definition of SMD components.
Well, with resistors everything is clear. 3 Figures: 2 - Nominal, the latter is a degree.
Examples:
102 \u003d 10 * 10 ^ 2 \u003d 1000 ohm \u003d 1 com
103 \u003d 10 * 10 ^ 3 \u003d 10 com
Article in the subject.

Cases of errors have repeatedly found when dismantling by an unprepared specialist of SMD components with printed circuit boards, in particular - damage to the contact pads and conductors on the foil textolite of the printer control boards and MFPs. I want to suggest a safe way to dismantle complex SMD components (QFP, PLCC, TSOP and SOIC) in order to prevent the failure of the components themselves and conductive elements on the foil textolite.

As a rule, difficulties occur when dismantling elements of surface installation in the absence of a tool base (soldering station, fluxes), as well as experience with SMD components with heating temperature control.

CHIP QUIK taking into account this moment and released a product that allows you to disassemble with a sting antistatic soldering iron with an adjustable temperature of heating, special flux, solder and cleaner. The principle of operation is based on a decrease in the melting point of the solder, which is used when installing the elements by the manufacturer (melting).

Consider the dismantling process on the example of the new Chip Quik SMD-1 Removal Kit set. In the novelty, we took into account the possibility of working with lead-free installation of boards.

The set includes: flux in a hermetically packed insulin syringe, the applicator (resembles a shortened needle), the piston for the syringe, the lightweight solder (melting point 58 ° C / 136 ° F), alcohol napkins, instructions in English.

The dismantling process can be divided into six stages:

Carefully prepare the work surface: cleaning from dust; removal of the soldering place and contact with solvent (rarely found); Cleaning with alcohol wipes that are included.
Apply a flux evenly using an applicator to all component contacts.
Transfer over flux of low-temperature solder melting flat steering of the soldering iron with a heating temperature of 55 ° C-65 ° C to all contacts SMD component.
Uniform heating of all contacts of the resulting "sandwic order" temperature up to 182 ° C-190 ° C until the solder and the formation of the "ball" around the contact. To speed up the process, you can pre-warm on the reverse side of the board with a hairdryer or bathroom to 150 ° C. If the melting point of the factory solder was within 260 ° C-320 ° C, the melting point of the resulting alloy will be in an area of \u200b\u200b100 ° C-120 ° C.
At the moment when all contacts are in the molten solder, using a vacuum extractor, tweezers or other, dismantle the component from the board.
We clean the working surface from the flux and contacts the dismantled component with alcohol napkins. We remove excess solder using a stripper for feeding, impregnated in the usual flux.

For clarity, the dismantling process with the use of a kit from Chip Quik can be viewed video rollers.

I had a lot of questions on the topic dismantling microcircuit In various buildings. I suggest you familiarize yourself with the most common options. dropping microcircuits In DIP and SMD enclosures.

First of all, you should talk about dismantling microcircuit The process that is the most affordable radio amateurs, but also somewhat difficult, compared to the one that will be described a little later.

The method of dismantling the chip in the DIP is a housing with a soldering iron and several items that can be found in the house.

Need a soldering iron and needle from a tenkube syringe. Cut the needle's edge so that it is flat, without island. We insert the hollow hole to the needle into the leg of the chip from the bottom side, slowly heating it while the needle does not pass through the hole in the board. Without removing the needles, we give to cool the surface and arrive, take out the needle. We remove the surplus of the solder from the needle, repeat the process on the remaining conclusions of the chip. With some skill, it turns out neatly and efficiently - the microcircuit itself falls out of the board without effort from the side.

The soldering iron and braid of the copper cable will be required. We apply a layer of flux to the copper braid, we put on one side of the chip leg and heating. When heated, the braid "pulls" the solder from the surface of the board on which the microcircuit is located. When saturating the braid simply cuts off the unnecessary part, and dismantling continues. It must be said that this method is suitable for dismantling the DIP components and for SMD components.

We need to work all the same soldering iron and something thin, such as a tweezers or a clock screwdriver with a flat sting. Gently fit flat pieces of screwdriver (or tweezers) between the chip and plata. On some reasonable depth, heating the legs on the reverse side, and slowly lift the side. We repeat the same process, but now on the other side of the part: insert a screwdriver, heating the legs, lifted. And repeat this process until the microcircuit is removed from the board. The method is very fast, simple and even rude. But do not forget that the tracks on the board and the chip itself have its own temperature limit. Otherwise, it is possible to stay without a working chip, or with exhausting tracks.

Soldering iron and solder suction is required. Sleeping suction is something like a syringe, but with a piston working on the principle of suction. Heat the output of the chip, immediately apply sucking for the solder, press the button and the created weave inside the suction "pumps" solder from the track. Unfortunately, everything is so easy and just looks only in words. In fact, heating the leg, you need to almost instantly get onto the feet of suction, and "roll out" solder, which requires high speed of execution, for the solder freezes almost instantly, and if you have a soldering iron longer, there is a risk of getting a spacing tracks or a burned component .

Now it will be discussed about dismantling components using a soldering hair dryer. The method of the simplest, effective, fast and high-quality. But, unfortunately, the soldering hair dryer is not cheap tool.

The method of dismantling the chip indip - case.

We need a soldering hair dryer, tweezers, preferably non-magnetic. Flux is applied by the legs, and warming up with the same side. Visually controls over the state of tin on the conclusions - when it has become sufficiently liquid, gently grab the items from the body side and stretch out of the board.

Dismantling chip B.sMD execution.

The principle is still the same - flux along the tracks, heats up at a certain temperature, the degree of heating is determined by easy pushing the part of the tweezers. If the item became movable - slowly and gently remove it from the surface of the board with a tweezers, holding the edges, and trying not to hook the tracks.

It is very important not to overheat dismantled parts and surface! Each chip and details have their own temperature limit, crossing which, part or fee will be spoiled. The hairdryer must be kept strictly vertically, pushing the desired nozzle, evenly warming up the entire surface of the chip. And do not forget to put the flow of air as such in order to accidentally do not blow the adjacent components.

Well, perhaps, all available ways to dismantle chip. I hope you received an answer to the question: how to fall out a chip.

When I once again disassembled in my amateur "bins", I found a large number of boards with SMD components that occupy a rather much space. It seems sorry to throw out, as the fees contain a large number of radio components that can be useful in operation. Therefore, I decided to fall from these boards the most valuable details - semiconductors, chips, inductors, quartz, etc. Those. Those elements that can be identified by labeling.

Cashboards with SMD components can be in several ways, including a conventional soldering iron. But this is a very uncomfortable way, leading to the overheating of parts and peeling the contact pads. Especially difficult to supply chips with a large number of conclusions. The most convenient tool for this case is an industrial hairdryer or soldering station with a built-in hairdryer. Unfortunately, I have no such devices, so I decided to build a small "stove" for the mass supply of SMD elements.

Design

The base of the device was a tin box taken from the "Leatherman" multitole, the size of 15x12x3.5 cm. 118 mm was used as the heating element. 300 W halogen lamp with R7S base. I did not find the cartridges for the installation of these lamps and ultimately had to remake the ceramic cartridge of the other type of lamp (pin).

Initially, I made mounts for two lamps, but as practice has shown and one lamp has enough "for the eyes"

The halogen lamp connects to any regulator of the appropriate power. I have it homemade, collected on the PR1500ST integral regulator. The application of the regulator allows not to overheat the board and maintain the "working" board temperature to easily remove the items.

Work

The process of dismantling the elements is quite simple. The board of the board, which is necessary to peel placed on the lamp, at an altitude of 1-3 cm. The lamp turns on almost complete power. After a while - usually 30-60 seconds. The board begins to smire slightly (it evaporates the protective varnish, the remains of fluxes or glue). At this time, I try to shoot elements in the heating area by tweezers. It is usually easily managed by a week after 30-40 after it went smoke. As soon as the elements begin to easily remove from the board, I reducing the power and start to "clean" the fee methodically. The details are placed on a sheet of paper or cardboard. In this way, the elements are removed easily, without "snot", even if they were glued to the board (such fees are found quite often).

For heating a narrow board, such as a cell phone I use two metal rails.

Conclusion

That's basically it. As a result, it turns out a neat handproof, which is further sorted, catalochized and becomes ready for re-use in amateur radio devices.