Installation of the railway stairs: wood preparation and mounting handrail. Install the railing on a wooden staircase How to collect wooden railing on the staircases

The construction of a good staircase is only half an important thing: stair fences are equally important and significant for the interior. The stairs fencing not only perform a protective function, preventing random drops from height, but also play an important decorative role: they serve as a prominent detail of the interior, with the right decoration perfectly fit into the appearance of the surrounding space.

The company SMKVADRAT-STADER offers the design and installation of turnkey staircases.

Our specialists work with the wishes and features of the room. We will help you emphasize the selected interior style by you: Classic or Neutral, Country or High Tech. Fences manufactured in our company can be any of two types:

warring handrails. It is a railing that are attached to the wall, along which the staircase is elevated. Their main task is an addition, the completion of the image of the entire premises or the staircase separately. This type of handrail can be created from any materials, while most often ordered variants of stainless steel, wood, glass and their combinations.
the usual railing. These railings consist of two parts - racks and handrails. The handrail is fixed with the balasine (they are also racks). It is Balyasins that play a major role in the design of fences, since the entire style appearance of the stairs depends on their design. Racks can be made in the form of conventional cylindrical columns or carved columns, made of stainless steel or with separate elements of wood or glass.

What material is better?

Modern fences for stairs most often combine elements of wood, glass and metal. At the same time, if the classic and rustic styles are in a tree and stone, then in modern style, solutions from metal and glass are dominated. Metal fences are significantly more practical than others and expand opportunities in design. Such decisions include forged fences, stainless steel handrails and brass products.

Our company is ready to fulfill for you any constructive and design decision, including complement the fencing by the rigels and other elements. Rigels are special metal elements that are installed between the racks and give the fence greater safety and a stylish look. To date, such solutions are popular not only in public places, but also in private houses. Glass elements are added to the ladder of light, while maintaining the desired degree of security. Glass in fences should be as strong as possible, so we order a glass of glass only in reliable suppliers, as we are confident as we, and our already consisted of customers.

What is the complexity of the design of fences?

If the staircase already exists, it turns out to be the correct fence for it is quite difficult - and technically, and technologically. It does not always have access to project documents: by that time, when it comes to the manufacture of fences, they are either lost, or do not exist initially, or do not correctly reflect the design of the stairs.

As a result, experts performing an order for a fence have to restore this documentation again, conducting many measurements. Often there is a need to mount in the workshop, to keep all the nuances of the geometry of the marches, as well as to "try" made fragments of fences. In addition, it is important to correctly calculate the maximum allowable load on the bearing elements, for which the knowledge of the technical characteristics of the materials applied, as well as the designs of the nodes, often by this time already hidden finishes.

In other words, to create a right, beautiful and convenient fence, a technically competent project is necessary. To draw up such a project and conduct a whole cycle of work on the manufacture and installation of fences from the beginning to the end, serious specialists who have the necessary software, knowledge and extensive experience in carrying out such orders are capable of being able to the end.

Learn all the subtleties of the manufacture of stair fences and order quality products in the company of the Smqdart-stairs by the phone numbers specified in the "Contacts" section.

With the arrangement of the stairs, it is important to know how to fix the balusters and railings correctly, so that the design is not only reliable and stable, but at the same time also looked neat. The technology of performing such a work may differ depending on the materials and design used.

Functions and types of products

To begin with, it is necessary to deal with the device itself and balaasine, their functions and varieties, and only then consider the installation directly. Both of these elements form a fence with handrails, the installation of which in most cases is mandatory for the arrangement of the stairs. Balaasins perform the following functions:

create a decorative design of the march;
serve as a support for handrails;
give fencing rigidity;
protect from injury or fall from the stairs.

From above on balasins should be installed directly by the railing. They provide the convenience and safety of movement on the stairs. In addition, they are a peculiar ending element of fences and carry a certain aesthetic load.

In one design, various materials can be combined. At the same time, methods for fastening such bassine and rail can differ radically. In order to better figure this issue, three main categories of materials used for fences should be distinguished:

metal;
wood;
concrete.

Varieties of stair fences depending on the material of manufacture

You can also meet a metal combination with glass or plastic and other spectacular combinations.

Hardware

Consider the installation process of the BALASIN and the railings do it yourself starting with metal products. Such elements may differ in the type of alloy used, form and the principle of use. First of all, such categories should be allocated:

Painted iron. The easiest option. Balasins are represented by metal tubes, plates or cast elements covered with paint to protect against rust.
Stainless tubes. Standard option for both residential and office buildings. Well combined with plastic railings. Have a nice look and are not corrosion.
Wrought items. Figure and openwork bales, created by cold or hot forging.

Metal fences for stairs can be made of various alloys

Fastening of such products can be two types: welded and screw. In the first case, by welding, individual fragments are connected to each other and with a fencing frame. The seams should be stuck so as not to spoil the appearance of the design. In the second case, all parts are fixed with bolts. It is in this way that it provides for the mounting of the railing to metallic balasins. Metal supports and wooden handrails are perhaps the best combination for both the interior and outdoor use.

The fencing sections themselves are attached to steps or wall with bolts and support plates. If there are metal parts or fittings, they can be welded.

Methods for fastening metal fences

Wooden fences

Another popular type of design for stairs is a wooden fence. Also available various attachment methods that allow you to install railing and balasins from a natural tree. First of all, the types of support should be distinguished:

Flat - products from plywood or flat board.
Simple planks - sawd on the desired segments of a tree strap with a square or round cross section.
Figured - manufactured by processing the billet from the tree on the milling machine according to the template.
Carved - decorated with carvings, are the most difficult performed.

Varieties of supports of wooden staircase fences

In order to mount such a fence, you can use multiple receptions. In most cases, balasins are better to install directly to the surface of the steps. It can be fixed on the cosos, if their dimensions allow. In some cases, it is possible to take them outside of the boomers. Also sometimes are used lower sheets, especially on march sites.

The balusters themselves can be mounted in the following ways:

on glue using the wanks;
with self-tapping screws;
on metal studs and oiled loops.

Methods for fastening wooden fences

According to the same principles, it is necessary to fix the railings. In order to remove a flat design, the height and position of each element are checked by level. The upper part of the balaasine is supported if necessary. From above to the beveled slice, installation of the handrail is made.

In order not to have no problems with the angle of tilt fasteners, it is best to use installation on conformats or screw loops. The latter are especially good for docking elements on the rotary areas of the stairs.

Concrete models

Separately, consider the installation process of the rail and balaasine from concrete. It is not always possible to fulfill such work with your own hands alone, since structural elements often have a considerable weight. Such an option of the ladder is more suitable for street buildings, but will also be appropriate in spacious buildings with concrete or stone stairs.

Concrete structures are more suitable for street use

Made such bassins most often by filling the solution into the form. To make them easier to carry, you can make half fragments, and then combine them with a fresh solution. For greater strength, concrete is reinforced with metal. In the future, items that can serve as the basis for connecting fragments of the fence. Such balusters are welded at a predetermined place where a metal rod is pre-laying in concrete.

Alternative installation option - Installation based on the basis. In this case, it is necessary to provide for the presence of holes in the bar. As the basis, it is best to use all the same reinforcement. The same principle is stacked by concrete railing, additionally strengthening with a solution. In the future, they can be separated by tiles or stone.

Concrete Balasine Installation Scheme

In order for the installation of fences with their own hands, it was performed efficiently, regardless of the material, be sure to check the strength of the mounts and the desired level.

Railings are elements of the fender construction on the stairs. Railings ensure the safety of movement during the descent or lift along the stairs. The railing is distinguished by the variability of forms and materials. Some designs are simple to appearance, safe and comfortable. Some can become the most real designer decoration, especially if the staircase is located in the room.

Make a railing for the stairs can be made of various materials: metal, wood, concrete, plastic. It is easiest way to make it easier to make barrier structures from metal and wood. In the article you can find detailed information on how to choose the right material, process it and make beautiful and reliable staircase railing.

The height of the fender construction should be not lower than 90 cm.

The handrails must be smooth and not too wide.

On narrow staircases, one side of the adjacent to the wall is set to the fencing. If the staircase is wide, then it is recommended to install two guidelines.

If a steep or high staircase is mounted in a house where there are small children, it is preferable to mount an additional low fencing for which the child will be comfortable to hold.

The distance between the balusters should be so that the child can crawl into the opening. Optimally -15-20 cm.

Handrails. This is the top plank located above the railhouse design. It is for the handrails that people hold down when descending down. The handrails should be smooth, monolithic, so that they were comfortable to hold for them.

Balaasins. These are racks that are attached to the steps or a tutor (carrying an element under the tilt, located on the edge of the stairs). Balaasins are attached to the design through a certain length.

Cabin. This is an end powerful rack located at the end of the stairs. The handrails are attached to the end.

Selection of material

Aluminum. The design of this metal make it yourself quite difficult. Most often, various fasteners and elements of the fence are sold in the finished form. Collect the railing with their own hands from the details set is simple enough, most importantly, choose the design and calculate the number of parts required. The material itself does not have the high operational and properties, bend on blows, scratched, fades, is covered with corrosion stains.

Chrome-plated fences Also sold in the finished form, the main thing is to correctly calculate and purchase all the necessary elements. The lack of chrome details is the rapid abrasion of the coating, especially if the staircase is located in crowded places.

Forged fences. Hot forging is predominantly factory work, make elements of hot forging fence at home very difficult. Cold forging - more executing work, if there are special tools, you can make a railing with your own hands. Pros - multivariate decoration of fence, minuses - a fairly high value of the material, a special tool, the complexity of the technical process.

Stainless steel. Metal has a glitter that does not fuss. Fencing for stainless steel stairs are strong, reliable, but for their erection, the skills of the welder and metal cutter are required.

Video - Installation of stainless steel fence

Set of tools and material

Welding machine, tutu electrodes, access to electricity, protective suit and mask.

Corner grinding with circles for cutting and polishing metal.

Place for welding work.

Metal profile and metal rolling. It is desirable that the profile has a small cross section so it is easier to cut it.

Order of work

First of all, the height of the railing and the distance between the balusters is determined. On the upper step, as on the bottom, the cabinets are installed - elements that fix the entire design of the fence. The couches must be thicker in diameter than balusters.

The height of the fence is calculated. Standard - 95 cm. But the rayl frame should be raised over the steps of 10 cm. It is also worth considering 5 cm on the handrail. Total, from 95 cm is taken away 15 cm and it turns out to be 80 cm. It is on such a size by metal-turn on the stands and balusters.

If the frame length is 3 meters, the transverse upper and lower profile on which the balasins are attached between the couches should also be drawn to 3 meter elements.

Welding frame. A frame is laid out of the outline profile and slightly grabbing welding. You do not need to immediately determine the elements, in case of marriage or skew, you will have to perform an extra work. The welded frame is reinforced: Balasins are brewed after 10 cm. It is worth considering that extreme stands should be at least twice as thick as internal metal vertical jumpers.

If the design fully complies with the standard and does not have distortions, you can start the finish welding of all items. It is recommended to weld the seams on both sides so that the fence is as strong as possible.

After the frame is ready, to the bottom profile, you need to first steal the pillars with round or square plates having a height of 10 cm. The holes for fasteners are dried in the plates.

Folding the appearance of the design

For this purpose, you need an angular grinder with a credit circle. It is necessary to carefully polish all the remnants of welding: drops, thighs.

Experts are recommended to give a self-made product a beautiful and unusual view using purchased forged elements. Specialized stores offer many forged accessories that can be welded to the frame of the frame: a curly vine with leaves, flowers, ornament.

It is also required to consider the type of handrail. Most often they are made of wood. Wooden billets are spinning from three sides and polish carefully.

The first layer is a primer that will protect against corrosion. Then you need paint for metal. The color depends on the individual preferences, but the black is most often used. Designers recommend to give chic homemade fence. For this purpose, Patina is used - the material giving the metal old and noble appearance. Metal railings are ready for their own hands.

Wood selection for design

Pine. This material is quite affordable and very often used in construction. Pine is soft, its wood has an uneven structure, due to which when painting, the observed material absorbs with different intensity. It is a good processing, withstands the temperature and humidity drops.

Birch. Dense and durable material, practically unheardless. It is well processed, polished. But, wood has a number of disadvantages: it is susceptible to rotting, with a change in temperature and humidity cracks.

Beech. In physical characteristics, this wood is not inferior to the oak. But, the beech is not recommended. The tree layer at low humidity breaks through the fibers, which leads to the damage of the elements.

As in the metal, in wooden structures, the handrail, balusters and stands are distinguished. But, in products from a tree, balusters are not only a supporting element, but also decoration. Most often, they are made of glued timber and are pulled out in the form of various columns.

The milling processing of the BALASIN is to cut the screw patterns on the surface of the elements.

In case of turning on the elements, you can see several combined geometric shapes: balls, squares, rectangles, etc.

Video - railing for the stairs do it yourself. Installation of figured balasine and installation of the handrail

Hand cut Balyasin is a real work of art. Patterns, ornaments and more are cut on the surface of the parts. Some wood cutters perform these elements in the form of animal figures.

Flat balusters are the homes that patterns are cut. This is the easiest way to decorate the staircase with your own hands.

As described above, the standard and safe height of the structure should be at least 95 cm. The width of the handrail - 5 cm, the distance between the steps and the fence is 10 cm. As a result, the height of the balassine is 80 cm. For these elements, wooden planks are needed, 10- 15 cm, 30-35 mm thick.

To create a carved and beautiful fence, skids need to give a form. Specialists who have mastered the lathe can cut the threads on the ends of the board using the equipment. If there is no machine in the presence, then there is a manual power tool ton, for example, a jigsaw.

To do this, on paper or cardboard you need to draw a template with real dimensions. Then use a pencil to circulate a template on each plate and cut the shape of the tags. After all the balusters have purchased the necessary form, you need to carefully treat the ends, clean them with fine-grained sandpaper and polish to shine.

Flat balusters, unlike wooden figures, it is not recommended to mount to the steps. The fence will be unreliable and shaky. Elements need to be mounted on a transverse timber, which is located 10 cm above the taper. It turns out that the handrail, the lower bar and the upper and the lower tubes form a frame that requires to insert flat bassines.

Bashed crossbars need 15 cm, but not more. You can use two types of connections - in the grooves and metal studs. If the balusters are inserted into the grooves, then on the bottom of the handrail and on the upper end of the transverse timber, you need to pull the grooves, 2 cm in depth. The length of the deepening should be equal to the width of the balusters.

Do not forget about the slope of the stairs. It is worth knowing that the lower ends of the Balyasin should be smooth, but the upper is cut under the angle of inclination of the stairs. It is on cut off the ends will be attached to the handrail.

At the metal studs of the balusters are attached if there is no possibility to mount a transverse timber. In this case, there will be no clearance of 10 cm, between the transverse timber and steps. The height of the balusin in this case should be 90 cm. It is attached to a baluster to a step by one stud, in the process of work it is important to attach the element smoothly, without distortion. For these purposes, you can use angle.

After all the fender elements are attached to the steps, you can mount the handrail. For it, a bar is used, which is rounded from three sides and is carefully polished.

The last stage of creating wooden railing for the stairs is the finish finish. For this, you can use acrylic paints, varnish, a sampling.

Beautiful staircase with her hands is ready.

The surface on which the product is installed must give a dense adjacent of the installation flange, and the foundation should be durable to supply normal anchor operation. The presence of voids under the tiled / floor tile is not allowed.
Balaasins can be installed both on one on the step and two.

Poor-quality mounting surface (low strength characteristics of carrier elements, leveling solutions, concrete, i.e. less than C20 / 25, voids under tiled tiles, etc.) can lead to low strength of the design of stair fences and manifests the work of the installation surface, such as , cracks, tile chips. All this can reduce the service life of the rail. How is the installation of fences?
Preparatory work

Scheme of fences elements.

Sign the platforms and staircase marches to install the racks that are set in 900-1200 mm. Racks on stair marches are usually set through two steps on the third, sometimes through three to the fourth. It is desirable to install the final stacks of flight marches opposite each other.
This will allow them to be born in themselves, which will significantly increase the strength of fences.

It is necessary to check the correspondence of the kit received after the markup and the ordered set of fences. If you do not match, make adjustments to markup or apply to the required kit.
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Installation of fences: Preparation of racks

Rapid installation circuit.

Racks are supplied in the form of pipe segments with holes for fastening holders (seg) filling the fencing. According to the lengths of the length of the racks: 850,1000,1200 mm.
When equipped with a two-stroke earring and mounting to the outer wall of the rack To install the holders in the rack, you need to install threaded rivets M5. Put them. Strengthen the support part of the ISO7380 screw earrings (internal hexagon of the semicircular head) 5 * 40 to the rack. The second part of the earrings is open and secure them with 4 * 4 lock screws.

When configured earring and fasteners through the rack, strengthen the earring on the rack using the ISO7380 6 * 35 screw.

Installation of the crankshaft tripod. It is set assembly with a plug. The planting part of the plug and the inner tube degrees. Use for degreasing alcohol or acetone. Apply two-component glue to mount the plug - Loctite3450A & B glue, 50 ml. Apply glue, registrarize the standing standards, install and put on polymerization.

Installing a horizontal straight tripod. Secure the ISO7380 8 * 20 trigger on the stand. Stick the rack plug.

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Installation of fences: installation of stairs

Sketch - fences scheme.

Installation of anchor.

Drill at the placed points in the concrete hole with a depth and diameter, respectively, with the selected view of the anchor.

Clean the metal brush and blow the hole with the pump. Repeat the operation twice.

Fill the injection hole by an opening by approximately 2/3. The resulting composition must be completely mixed, and it must be uniform color. It must be remembered that the first 10 cm with non-occurring will come out of the nose. Consider the fasteners manufacturer tips.

Mount the rotational motion anchor to the desired depth.

Mount the rack mount flange, checking the strength of the finger connection and the flange ring. Flange must be firmly twisted. Strengthen the fastening flange of the rack, tightening the nut M14 thread. Tightening torque - 55n * m.

Arrange the "dry" racks. Mark the height of trimming the racks with a marker. In most cases, the rack is cut from the bottom. Cut at the height of the rack. Make sure that the rack's height is assembled with the handrail. Use for this or cutting machine, or a tantopile machine having a low ribbon speed. When working with a cutting machine, use steps with a thickness of 1 mm. Run (change from the temperature effects of the color of iron) and burrs remove the sandpaper and the file. Using the cutting machine, it is necessary to pay special attention to the literature of the cut line. To form straight cut, wrap the tube with a sticky tape and swipe the radial line. It needs to be cutting.

Installation of racks. It is necessary to degrease the bonded surfaces of the rack and the flange. Apply glue. Put with rotation rack on the flange. Orient a relatively staircase rack. After the transition into the tough mass, remove neatly excess glue. At this stage, it is convenient to cut the glue with the blade knife type "Master". You can also apply other techniques for working with glue. For example, when the glue is not simply removed, but rubbed with a rag dipped in a solvent in the connecting seam to disguise very uneven cut. Use by working with glue, manufacturer tips.

The final staircases of the stair marches advise to connect the pipe between 12 mm and the M6 \u200b\u200bthread. Drill for this in the racks through holes with a diameter of a little more than 6 mm. Pipe cut into size, which is equal to the distance between the racks. Looking through the pipe M12 and rack threads, tighten it on both sides with cap nuts M6. Make two links of the connection.

Next you need to make sure that the racks are firmly cost. Do not stick and have no backlash. The rack should perceive the elastic load. If it is possible to drive a rack, it means that a certain error operation is made. The insufficient strength of the anchor ("pulls" anchor), the surface (tile cracks), mounting to the flange of the rack (the adhesive compound is incorrectly produced). The assembly connection can be disassembled by heating to 120 ° C using a construction dryer. Try the items do not overlay.

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Installation on the crankshaft trigger of the ladder fence

Scheme measurement of stair fences.

Attach a pipe to tripods. Specify the end point of the pipe and fastening the tripod to the pipe and the marker. The removal of the handrail is not recommended to do more than 100 mm.

Setting the pipe on the steady horizontal surface, cut the pipe and drill the holes at the attachment points 9.2 mm. Under the installation of threaded rivets (or under cutting threads M6 hole 5.2 mm), mount the threaded rivet.

Temporarily remove the top of the tripod and strengthen it to the handrail of the screw DIN 912 (internal hexagon, cylindrical head) 6 * 20.

Strengthen to the rack handrail with tripods.

The tube of the handling of stainless fences is supplied for 6 pounds. M. However, to save pipes and reduce the price of railil, it is recommended to produce splicing. For splitting angles of rotation and handrail, use the handrail connector.

To mask unsuccessful cut, you can use glue. Apply glue on the seam. Give a little bit and, rubbing a rag moistened in a solvent, achieve a uniform filling with a seam glue.

On the end of the handrail, put the rotation or plug. Adhesive connection plugs with pipe.

Assembling the railing for the stairs is completed by installing the handrail. What could be the mount of the handrail, how to make it right, not everyone knows and imperceptibly. Some common ways for wooden and metal stairs describe here.

Fastening the handrail to the bassins of a wooden staircase

It turns out that the wooden railing makes the harder. All because there are many different ways and techniques for working with wood and almost no ready-made solutions, as each staircase is individual, has features. For example, the fastening of the handrail to the balusters can be made using the drums, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, special ties (zipball), glue. In addition, you can set the railing to "disembark" directly to the balusters and pillars, but there are options with an additional slat, which is sometimes called a "submeritator". And all this is the "right" ways to connect racks with the handrail. That's how you can do it and we will talk in this section.

First of all, cut off a piece of handrail of the desired length. It can be a fragment from one support post to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper / lower column and until the moment of rotation. It all depends on the design of the stairs. If there are places of joints of two fragments, they must be well treated, having achieved an ideal coincidence. Then the handrails for the street should be covered with protective impregnations, and then - paint / varnish. After you can already deal with the fastening of the handrail for the stairs.

How to cut bales for the installation of the handrail

After installing the baluster on the steps, their tops are at different levels, and without trimming, you will not install the handrail - it does not lie like that. To mount the reference handrail on the stairs, it is necessary to cut the top of the racks at a certain angle. This angle is determined by a steep staircase, and it is not necessary to calculate it. It is determined by "on the spot."

To find the angle of the underrut of the balaasine, you can use a strained between the support pillars of the thread. It is tied at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where on the idea, the lower boundary of the handrail will be held. With this stretched thread, the pencil is transferred to the top of the racks. Instead, the thread can be used and you can still temporarily secure the guide (any level bar).

This should turn out - the staircase railing is ready for installation of the handrail.

The line was obtained, now strictly on it screaming the tops of the columns on the stairs. Next, you can continue fixing the handrail for balusters or pillars.

Allow one tip: If for the subsequent installation of the railing, you will need to drill holes for the sewages or studs, make it better before trimming. It's easier to find the center, it is easier to keep perpendicular to the drill. After the holes are made, you can take a saw / jigsaw and to focus on the scheduled rack markup.

Balaasine compound and rails with drains and threaded studs

Consider one of the traditional ways: fastening the handrail with a wanking or studs. Under this type of connection, you must make the coinciding holes in the handrail and racks of the rails of the stairs. If you put the studs, they can be screwed into the holes done in the center, install the handrail to the position in which it should stand. Checking, whether everything is true, go along the handrail, grabbing a fist over each baluster. The protruding ends of metallic studs will be left on the back of the handraille. The handrail is removed, the resulting labels for reliability mark the marker / pencil. Now you can drill holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its "landing".

The second version of the marking of the handrail for the installation of studs and the waders is carried out before they are installed in balasins. First of all, apply a sliced \u200b\u200bpiece of handrail into place. Then the pencil note from two sides where balaasins are installed. Before applying marks, check the distance between neighboring columns below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, put the marks, if not, correct the position of the rack and only then we apply marks. The adjustment is needed in order for all the supports of the staircases vertically. It will make the railing more reliable.

After all the balusters are noted, remove the handrail. From the reverse side, the marks applied by us. Between pairs of lines that outlines the baluster, are diagonally. At the place of their intersection, we put the mark. Here and it will be necessary to drill a hole for the wanking or stud. We also find centers on balasines (if there are no holes in them). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railings, problems may arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit with the rack. The good news is that in some limits, the baluster can be moved. While it is not fixed - there is a certain freedom, it can be used when installing the railing. Just navigate it so that the spike entered the groove. In general, the fastening of the handrail for the seasons you know.

In order for the installation of the railings, it is more reliable, besides the waders or studs, you can mix with glue. This will make the design more rigid, will extend the service life without the backlash.

With auxiliary plank - submer

Agree that the most simple installation of the handrail for balasins is through self-drawing or nails. What does it stop from such a decision? Overly unsightly result in the form of fasteners, spoiling all kinds. But there is a very similar way, guaranteeing a good appearance of the staircase railing. Auxiliary plank is used, which is also called the submerch.

The auxiliary bar is cut with a spike, which in the mirror reflection repeats the shape of the groove at the bottom of the handrail. It is put on the fastened balusters with a flat side, they are attached (self-tapping and nails - your choice). Do not forget to check the distances between adjacent racks.

Then the upper part of the subucleor is riveted with glue and "plant" handrail. Everything. No traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding. The only thing that must be taken into account is that the height of the handrail is obtained somewhat more, as it is added even the thickness of the auxiliary plank (if the plank is wooden, it is at least 2-3 cm).

There is another way to fasten the handrail on the submeritator - small nails or self-pressing from the bottom, at an angle. But with this attachment you can see the caps. They can be disguised as one of the well-known methods, but it is long ...

The easiest way is to fasten with self-draws

As you know, over time, the wooden railing "break down" due to the fact that under load they are risen, wood fibers are fitted, the backlash appears. For the ability to the backup, two or more self-press / nail can be used for each balaasine. So the mounting of the handrail will be tougher.

Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Any, thin metal suitable. Although steel, even aluminum. But then it will be necessary either to crop the bar in the size of the excavation on the handrail, or to modify the groove so that the handrail is well for the design. And yet: if the plane is metallic, glue must be found universal, which is well glued wood with a metal. This is the mount of the handrail on the staircase simple, beautiful, reliable. Suitable for those who decided to make a railing for the stairs with their own hands for the first time.

On the spikes of different shapes

It is possible to install the handrail from the tree without metallic fasteners: on the spikes and glue. The spikes are cut in the top of the balusne. Under them in the handrails form the recesses of the same form. Schip / groove form - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, oval. The main thing is that spikes and grooves perfectly coincide. You can achieve this by making a template and exactly repeating it on each fragment. The minimum spike height is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.

After a spike is formed on each baluster, and at the appropriate place on the handrails, the groove is cut, they are sampled. When installing the handrail for balasins, they can be slightly shifted to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after drying the glue (time is on the package).

Complete of the handrail and reference pillar

Often the handrail is not on top of the post, but connects to its side face. How in this case, dock the handrail and pole? The easiest way - after trimming the handrail under the desired angle, fasten on the self-tapping screw or nails, driven at an angle. Cons are obvious - the fasteners hats are visible.

There is another way - use a zip-bolt, which consists of two movably connected spills and gearboxes. Under its installation, a technological hole is needed, which is done at the bottom of the handrail. It is then covered with a stub into the tone of wood and it becomes almost imperceptible. The second plus of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent), if suddenly, the backlash will appear.

Even under Zipbolt, it is required to drill holes under the heels - one in the post and in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made on the handrail. It is located so that it is possible to twist the thread under the reducer (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is the size of the spills (from the connection to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the heel.

Studs are installed in the drilled holes. It is screwed into the post, it is simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole in which there is a hole for the hex key (6 mm). Deploy the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turning the key, tighten the thread, attracting the handrail to the post. It is necessary to do this after the balusters are connected to the handrail. Attaching the handrail to the post, we can assume that the railing is installed.

Installation of the handrail for prefabricated metal fences

In general, the assembly of handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome) pipes is similar to the constructor. There are pipes of different diameters, decorative elements to them, and a whole set of different mounts. From all these parts and collected railing. Therefore, they are named "teams." I decide how to mount the handrails for metal balusters / pillars / racks, your task is to choose those elements that are better than the rest suitable for solving your task or more than others you like.

To connect metal racks / Balyasin with the handrail, there are special tips, which on the one hand are attached to a round / square / rectangular tube, on the other to the handrail. There are models of different types. You only need to find the most suitable, choose the desired: on the size of the racks and the type of handrail.

In metal precast fences, handrails can be different:

round metal pipe;

profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;

plastic handrail (round, oval or original form);

wooden any profile.

Under each of these handrails there is a mount, and, usually, not one. Choose what you like. Fasten them simple: clamping bolts. But, for reliability, and if it allows the thickness of the metal, you can all connect two metal parts to weld. "It's not easy thing, but if you know how to handle the welding machine, there is nothing impossible. Welding takes more time, but this is the fixation of the handrail will be very reliable.

When connecting elements of a metal staircase with plastic or wood, it is necessary to use that fastener that manufacturers are recommended. Additionally, you can skirmize the joints with universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, there is no particular sense: the grip will be very low. But still…

Fastening the handrail for a welded or adhesive fence for the stairs

On adhesive or welded fence usually put a wooden handrail. In the lower part of it, they do the size of the upper jumper of the finished fence. The depth of planting the handrail is about 2 cm. It is possible and more or less - depends on the desire. Connect the railing with the handrail of self-pressing, which are twisted through the holes in the upper jumper. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be a little (minimum - by 5 mm) less than the height of the handrail so that the screw does not stick on the surface.

In this case, the installation of the handrail for the staircase is simple:

There is still an opportunity to glue a wooden handrail to metal welded or wrought-iron railings. When choosing glue, it is necessary to watch it can connect wood and metal. For external stairs (for, for example), you must also pay attention to the range of operating temperatures. Otherwise, no difficulties:

smear the glue on the instructions;

press parts, fix clamps;

leave before drying the glue;

remove clamps.

To reliably fasten the handrail to the steel staircase, you can use both of these methods. One thing does not interfere in any way.

Methods for fastening the handrail of stairs to the wall

The wall is fixed by the handrail if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made from the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but fasten it to the wall.

To mount the handrail on the wall there are a number of fixtures - brackets - under different profile (round, oval, curly). On one side of the fastener is a round or square fragment with a flat surface and holes done in it. This part is installed on the wall. We select fastener depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws, if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to a light concrete.

The quantity and size of fasteners for the installation of a staircase on the wall are selected based on reasons of reliability. On each bracket manufacturers make minimum four holes. Here are four self-press / dowels / nails for each and put. When the length is selected, it is better to proceed from reasons "the longer, the better." Still, there may have a solid load on the wall handrail, so it is better to be restrained than to fly down ...

The second part for the wall mount of the staircase railing is where the handrail itself is attached - may be different. Under round pipes can be a ring of a certain diameter, a smooth area usually goes under rectangular or square handrails. In this part of the bracket for the staircase, too, there are holes - so that the railing can be fixed. And in this case, the quantity of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (according to the same considerations).

There are brackets for wall mounting handrails with different angles of inclination. Choose them on the basis of their own ideas about the convenience and planned support altitude. There are still telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and / or angle of inclination. There are still end wall brackets, which simultaneously with the fixation of the edges of the handrail also decorately declared them.

The number of brackets depends on its handrail length. It is usually put on one element in terms of edges, and the calculated number, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The smaller the bearing wall capacity, the more often we put the wall holders for the railil.