When it comes to installing windows in the house from cellular blocks, two different approaches to the fastening technology are facing.

Supporters of polyurethane foam argue that this material is so reliable and sealed that it does not require the use of fittings. Fans of dowels, on the contrary, make a bet on the mechanical contact of the metal and blocks.

Truth, as often happens, is in the middle of polar opinions.

Therefore, we decided to consider in detail the features of the high-quality installation of windows in aerated concrete and foam concrete walls.

When is it better to put plastic windows?

There is no consensus on this issue. Newbies developers are asked when you can install windows in a house of aerated concrete or foam block. They give advice one of another absurd. Some argue that cellular blocks have a very large shrinkage and mounted windows only a year after construction of the box.

Others are trying to undergo a "scientific" base approval and reason from three types of shrinkage of gas silicate and foam block. At the same time, all the advisers together ignore these manufacturers. They are clearly stated that the natural shrinkage of cellular blocks does not exceed 0.3 mm per 1 meter wall in height. Therefore, it is not necessary to talk about her critical exposure to the window frames. The confusion arises due to the substitution of the concepts of shrinkage of light concrete and the sediment of the building.

The deformation sediment of the structure (walls and foundation) does not occur due to evaporation of moisture from concrete and blocks. It causes uneven settlement and rise of the soil under the action of freezing and watering water. Here is from such a shrinkage and you need to protect the supporting structures. For the foundation, frameworks from fittings are used, and for walls from aerated concrete and foam blocks - which are poured at the level of inter overlooking. If these measures are not accepted, then cracks in the walls and foundation in construction on weak and water-saturated soils are guaranteed.

What practical conclusions can be made from our theoretical reasoning?

Very simple: to put windows in the house from gas or foam concrete blocks can be 2-3 months after the completion of the wall masonry. This period is enough to ensure that the foundation also gained the necessary strength.

Someone may argue, saying that the house should have to stand at least 1 year before the installation of windows and finishes, so that the processes of soil stabilization are completed. We will respond to that that the process of soil movement is continuous. Therefore, hope is not necessary for the complete completion of the sediment of the building, but on the quality of construction - a solid foundation and bearing walls.

Nuances of high-quality installation of windows in aerated concrete and foam blocks

Let's just say that insert the plastic window in the foam block is easy. It is much more difficult to ensure the irrepressibility and durability of the junctions between the wall and the plastic frame.

For this you need to perform three conditions:

• Seam tightness.
• Protection of contact zone from heat loss.
• Mechanical strength of contact "Window-wall".

The seamlessness of the seams can be partially secured by quarters - protrusions that are cut in blocks. In addition, it has to use sealing materials - frost-resistant sealants or self-seeping tape (psul). The zone of contact of the frame with the wall is insulated by the traditional method - foam based on polyurethane. Dowels or mounting plates are responsible for the mechanical strength of the attachment.

Secure the window frame in the opening in two ways:

1. Having removed the glazing, drill a hole in the plastic profile under a long dowel-nail, attach them to the frame to the wall and put the glass in place.
2. Without removing glazing, lock the anchor plates throughout the perimeter of the frame around the perimeter. After that, you need to set the window to the mounting position and fasten to the wall of the dowel-nail through the holes in the plates.

The installation of plastic windows in a house of aerated concrete in the first way has its drawbacks: dismantling and installation of the glassworks of time consuming, and the position of the frame in the opening after its fixation cannot be changed. The second installation method is more convenient, because if necessary, the position position before joining the foam can be changed and only after that it is completed.

The standard installation of windows in aerated concrete begins with an installation under the frame of remote gaskets from plastic or wood. They are needed to create a gap in which insulation foam will be blown.

Before this operation, mounting plates must be fixed. For this, the screws are used with a length of 19 mm and a diameter of 4.8 mm.

The depth of the window installation can be from 8 to 12 cm (from the edge of the frame to the edge of the opening) and depends on the wall thickness (20 or 30 cm). If the external part of the masonry is insulated, the window can be put closer to the outer edge of the outlook on the thickness of the insulation.

These indents choose not from the reasons of aesthetics of the appearance of windows, and due to the need to protect the bounds from the condensation of moisture and freezing (the dew point should be outside the frame).

Adjusting the window position with the help level, the holes under the dowel (unstressed drill) are drilled in blocks. From the edge of the block, the extreme hole of the plate must retreat at least 5 cm so as not to split it. First, the plate is fixed with one dowel (diameter 6 mm length 80-100 mm). After final alignment, the second is screwed.

Making sure that the windows of the windows are easily open and closed, proceed to the stupid of the joint throughout the perimeter of the frame. For this work it is better to take a frost-resistant foam with a low expansion coefficient. This will increase the durability of insulation and reduce pressure on the frame. To improve the quality of the adhesion of the foam with the block and the window before it joining the entire seams need to be treated with water from the flavor.

After the foam freezes, her surplus, protruding, cut off. Adjustment wedges take out and the forms of voids are fought. Having finished these operations, the outer joint of the frame with the unit is sealed with an expanding ribbon (psuli) or protected by frost-resistant breathable putty. Another common option is to install around the perimeter of the waterproofing tape on glue-sealant.

Sealing sealing ribbon

The inner joint is treated with a putty, carefully aligning it throughout the contact zone with insulation.

Completes installation installation of low tide and windowsill. An important nuance of this work is the correct placement of holes in the plastic profile, along which the condensate from the window goes out. They should be higher than the popular, so that the moisture does not fall into blocks.

In conclusion, I want to say about the quarters that protect the joints of plastic windows from purging and freezing. Any cellular concrete is well cut, so in the process of masonry you can make a quarter of the desired quarter in advance.

Another option is to install quarters from dense (extruded) foam. It is well insulates the slopes and frame, but quite complicated in the finish, because it needs to install the grid and high-quality putty. Polyfoam is fixed on glue and additionally fixed to blocks with plastic dowels with wide hats.

" Question answer

Question 1. I have void flooding slabs on the project, will the blocks sustain this load?

(Olga Sobchak)

Ceramzite concrete blocks (ceramzitoblocks) are used as carriers up to 3 floors inclusive.

Installation of plates is carried out on a prepared pre-monolithic belt, which evenly distributes the load on the walls. The monolithic belt on the bottom should be a height of 200 mm. Formwork is exhibited, reinforced and poured concrete M-200. Therefore, you can safely buy a ceramzitobetone in such cases.

Some private developers drive a series of three of the full-scale brick, they are used on the base.

Question 2. Is it necessary in the process of construction a ceramzite-concrete block to protect from moisturizing as a gasoblock?

(Markov Alexey Maksimovich)

The main difference from the gasoblock is a large moisture product of a ceramzitobetone. Practice shows: let him move in the rain, snow or hail - the sun looks like and he will take the initial species to get even more strength! So in the climatic conditions of the Perm and Perm region, this feature of the ceramzite-concrete blocks is one of the key factors that ensure reliability and durability.

Question 3. What a minimum width of the wall is allowed to be warm and cozy in the house.

(Alexey Burkov)

The minimum wall width is 400 mm with high-quality masonry and perfect filling vertical and horizontal seams to avoid cold bridges.

You can consider options 450 mm and 500 mm and others. If the wall is laid out in half a 200 mm, then a heater is needed (URSA. Keramzite, Penopelex, etc.).

Do not forget the same thing that the structure should be heated and must be present and exhaust ventilation.

Question 4. What cladding is applied to your blocks? Do you need to stucify on the grid?

(Ovchinnikova Elena Aleksandrovna)

There are several facing options:

• Facial brick.
• Plaster (ceramzit concrete has excellent adhesion). Additionally, it is recommended to add a lime paste to the plaster solution so that the solution turned out more plastic and the plaster after drying did not crack. The optimal layer of the plastering layer is 20 mm. The use of the grid is impractical.
• Facade putty. Applied to exactly laid out walls. Applied along a plaster grid, a thickness of 2 to 4 mm, or according to the instructions for using putty on the primed surface of the block.
• Block house
• Siding
• Porcelain strain plates
• Natural stone.

The use of clay-concrete blocks (ceramzite concrete) gives you a huge selection of finishing material. You can buy any of the above facing.
.

Question 5. Tell me how you can saw the clamzitoblock, if necessary, we have a half block wall.

(Mironov Dmitry Pavlovich)

The easiest way to take a "grinder" with a diamond circle with a diameter of 230 mm. The result is neat, smooth cut.

Specialist of the Industrial and Civil Engineering Department of Bakaev Viktor Khasanovich was responsible for all the questions.

Set your question

Send your question on the ceramzite-concrete block to us - we will try to answer it and publish here.

Often, when conducting construction work, there is a need to cut. How to do it, what tool for this will need? Some "folk crafts" manage to not even cut, and chop blocks with an ax, but this approach has several drawbacks:

• it is not always possible to cut the unit exactly
• the block may be too thick,
• this is not quite safe.

Also, you should not even try to use chainsaw: the chain will not stand it, and the dust, which will be very much, can generally bring the tool in order.

Manual knob

The first tool that can be used - manual hacksaw with thick metal web and carbide attacks on the teeth. It is designed to saw aerated concrete, but if the scope of work is small, you can try to cope with it with it. A serious disadvantage of this approach is that it will have to be powered manually. This means that the man's working man will quickly get tired and will not be able to drink many blocks. Discovered for foam concrete, our blocks do not cut ...

Bulgarian

The following option is a corner-glare machine (Bulgarian) with a metallic segmented circle with a diamond spraying on the cutting surface. If you take a non-banned circle, the likelihood is great that it is strongly heated and deformed, as a result of which it may even fly into several parts during sawing.

The main disadvantage of this method is that the depth of the cut is limited by the radius of the disk. You can make cuts around the perimeter, and then the block will have to split. However, this is not a very difficult task, you can cope with the help of the ax (it is inserted into the cut, and then the hammer is applied on the outer) or a wooden bar (you need to raise the unit and lower it to the line of the cut line).

Saw "Alligator"

You can find the "Alligator" electrooper, designed specifically for cutting bricks. Such models are produced as large foreign brands (Dewalt, Bosh, etc.) and domestic companies. Alligator is fully able to cope with a large number of clay-concrete blocks, provides high accuracy of sawing, is quite safe. It is quite easy to use it, and therefore not only professionals can work with the Alligator, but also people with small experience.

In this article we will tell about how to cut the concrete wall and how to cut the concrete slab. Moreover, we will offer to your attention those methods that will be able to cope with this task simply and relatively quickly.

Cutting concrete structures is the task with which it is necessary to encounter when conducting capital repairs with elements of redevelopment of premises, in the process of laying of certain communications, as well as in the course of correcting the errors made in the manufacture of the concrete.

Common methods

Since the first railway structures have appeared, there was a need for their cutting, and the development of specialized equipment designed to perform these works began.

The market presents a wide range of concrete processing techniques, list the most relevant of them:

• cutting a perforator;
• use of an angular grinding machine (Bulgarian USH);
• the use of a chain saw;
• cutting reinforced concrete diamond circles by applying specialized equipment.

Punching perforator

In the photo - cutting down concrete - long and inefficient

- This is the most affordable way, since many compatriots in the household have a more or less powerful shock drill.

Catching concrete is carried out as follows:

• under the contour of the future cut, the holes are drilled by a brother with a win-coat surfacing;
• then, according to the outlined contour, the material is cut down and selected by a chisel.

Among the advantages of the method, you can note the possibility of doing with your own hands using the available equipment.

However, there are significant disadvantages, including:

• the presence of a shock effect on the surface being processed;
• high noise;
• dust and dirt;
• the inability to work with reinforced concrete;
• the low accuracy of the contour, according to which deforestation was carried out.

Application Bulgarian

In the photo - cutting seams with a grinder

The angular grinding machine (USM) "Bulgarian", unlike the perforator, is a type of disk saw. This is the optimal solution for those who do not know how to cut ceramzite blocks or concrete structures with high precision cut.

Among the advantages of the method, we note the availability of equipment and the low cost of a diamond disk. But along with the advantages there are disadvantages, among which the impossibility of timely dust leads, as well as a limited diameter of the discs and, as a result, the possibility of cutting structures with a small thickness.

Using a chain saw

The chain saw for cutting concrete with electric or gasoline drive is a more progressive technology, since such equipment can process the material to a depth of more than 30 cm depending on the modification.

The equipment is designed to work with unarmed and weakly reinforced concrete. A special diamond chain is applied to work.

During operation, the chain is subjected to significant heating. In order to eliminate the overheating of the cutting tool in modern saws, water is provided. The jet of water is served on the hose on the chain and at the same time cools the cutting tool and removes dust.

The chain saw can be used as an independent tool for cutting the progress, but the greatest efficiency of the operation of this equipment is achieved in combination with wall-cutting machines.

Application of gas stations and swordzer

In the photo - Compact gas

Cutting reinforced concrete diamond circles is performed by a special tool - fuel oils and squeezing. This equipment works with the use of segment laser circles with a diameter of up to 600 mm.

Equipment is used to effectively process both unarmed and reinforced and reinforced. In addition, such tools are successfully used for cutting solid granite and marble.

Cutting is carried out at high speeds, and therefore, in order to avoid overheating, the concrete disk for the circular saw is cooled with water. At all, without exception, the tools of this type provides the possibility of dust leading.

Cut concrete for a small depth

Do not know how and how to cut a concrete for a small depth? It is completely simple and from the tool will be required by the ESM or as it is also called "Bulgarian". As a rule, such a tool can be equipped with sintered diamond disks with a diameter of 105-125 mm. If this size is enough, it's time to work for work.

Important: The use of grinder requires the use of specialists and protective equipment, including glasses, gloves and respirator.

We work as follows:

• Hold the lock button on the grinder and unscrew the locking nut on the landing pin with a special key.
• We dress the disc, complying with the recommendations in the direction of rotation and hold the lock button, tighten the nut with the maximum force.
• Bottles on the concrete contour line cut.
• Turn on the grinder, and tightly holding the instrument in the hands, we lead them on the surface towards the opposite rotation of the disk.

IMPORTANT: Ensure in advance that on the cut line you will not meet hidden metal parts that can damage the disk.

We cut concrete to a big depth

In the photo - Shvonrezer on the wheeled platform

If you need a tool for making a concrete to a greater depth, in this case you need a salary. In fact, it is a large circular saw on which a large diamond disk is installed. The market presents various tool modifications. The main differences between these modifications is power and dimensions and, as a result, the maximum allowable disk diameter.

IMPORTANT: The work of the bulboresis requires not only the skills, but also a certain physical training. The tool weighs a lot and should be taken into account when choosing a particular model.

All gas stations are conditionally divided into two types:

• Dry cutting modification - There is no fixture for dosage water supply.
• Modifications for wet cutting - Equipped with nozzles for water supply to the cooling casing and cutting disk. The price of such a modification for obvious reasons is much higher.

Output

If you need to do a hole in the wall, the ceiling or at the base of the floor, you will certainly need a diamond drilling of holes in the concrete. But, if you need to cut through the window in a solid wall or hatch in the overlap, you will need completely different equipment equipped with diamond spraying discs.

In this article you have learned about what such tools represent such instructions and what is the instruction of their use. Fir needs additional information, you can get them, looking at the video in this article.

how to cut clay blocks?

The question is resolved I. closed.

Best answer

Answers

0 0

8 (115658) 8 15 115 5 years

are they sawing? we cut them with an ax
Well, you want beautifully - probably disk on the stone. Stone as-in no way) Big Flex.
I do not advise with a hacksaw, fill it instantly. But if not sorry ..

0 0

7 (92208) 34 176 787 5 years

Cutting of large-format wall blocks - an inevitable process when the walls are erected. It is necessary to cut blocks when erecting window and doorways, frontones, and in the process of erection of a solid wall without cutting can not do. For cutting, various tools are used, and which tool is suitable for which it depends on the type of blocks.

Ceramzit concrete wet-free blocks can be cut with a grinder (a corner machine) with a cutting circle diameter of 230mm. The cutting circle should be metallic segmented with diamond spraying on the cutting part. If you cannot use a segmented cutting wheel, then it can operate in the process of sawing from overheating, this does not occur with the segmented circle, since the slots in it allow the sectors (segments) of the cutting circle to freely deform when heated. The disadvantage is that the cut is obtained a depth of only 55 mm, even if the block is cut from all sides, it will eventually have to chop out, but having a slot around the perimeter, it will be quite easy to do it. You can put an ax in a slot and hit the hammer on it, and you can put a wooden bar and with effort to lower the block on it the cut slicer - a fairly effective way.

Better, of course, cut the ceramzite-concrete blocks of the type "Alligator" by Dewalt for cutting bricks. Also, Dewalt exists a whole series of alligator saws for cutting foam concrete, bricks and large-format ceramic blocks of Porotherm. Alligator from Dewalt will be perfectly cope not only with blocks, but also with a brick, so if the means allow, it is better to purchase it. There are also Russian analogs of such dies, for example, the Perm Alligator is at times cheaper than the Devoltovsky, in terms of professional instrument may not fit, but for one house, I think such a saw should be enough.

Foam concrete blocks can be cut with a special hand-hack for cutting foam concrete - a hacksaw with a thick metal web and carbide attacks on the teeth (similar to the tree with a tree). It cuts such a hacksaw pretty good, minus only in what cut, more precisely, to cut, you will have to handles, and this is a decent waste of forces and time, although if there is no way to hurry ...

The best tool for cutting will also be a devolt alligator, but the price of it greatly limits the acquisition of this tool in Russia. Many adapt to cut foam blocks by Russian "alligators" or just saber saws, which are at times cheaper than alligators, applying special saw blades for cutting for cutting of foam blocks (including the canvas for alligator, which drag under the desired mounting type).

Ceramic pricked blocks of type "POROTHERM" will turn out to be cut only by the saw "Alligator". The saber saw here is unlikely to cope, but I do not advise extreme with a grinder - cut in the respirator and protective glasses, in the heat, tin. Bulgarian can be cut in principle, only it will be a very long and tedious process with a constant very neat chipping of interfering cuts of parts, plus a huge amount of dust and small fragments that are flying under the clothes and shoes. By the way, manufacturers of ceramic blocks recommend that the "Alligator" company "Dewalt" is recommended, I think that it is not for nothing that it is recommended. The price bites, but the saw standing, especially if you are a bricklayer and you need it to work.

If it is required to cut a block into two equal parts in length (width of the wall), and the quality of the cut will not matter, for example, to look at the ceiling slabs around the perimeter, then the unit can not be cut at all, but simply split it. I used the canvas for these purposes from the old hacksaw on the tree and the hammer. Due to the voids, the block is fine, each inner partition is sequentially breaking through, one after another - as a result we obtain two facial halves.

In no case do not use blocks, even foam concrete, chainsaw. No chain will endure, even if you cut a foam concrete, and the cutting dust will simply kill the mechanism of chainsaws - the gears will fall into the gearbox, the gears and bearings will begin to be worn.

from the middle class of Take Chieftec, FSP, they really showed themselves and work on the stated power and in some cases even exceed it, and the price is less accessible.

about Codegen In general, forget the Chinese hidden consumer goods, the power in them does not correspond to reality, so there are 10 lats

Perhaps capacitors are dry. From heat.
It is strange that the plugs knocked out - there are 2 fuses in the blocks - fuse and semiconductor.

Description See what burned - it will give a picture. Yes, and sometimes there are cockroaches. They climb under the fee itself, which is screwed with screws to the body of the block inside it. Contacts closures (high frequency of 20 kHz on which the unit works, it goes easier through a cockroach than 5-Hz networks). The insect is roasted, the block burns.

It may be destroyed by a voltage fuse (a green flat disk with contact wiring) and the chain closed - it happens from jumps.

When you turn on the vacuum cleaner when the refrigerator motor is turned on - the network is inserted above 230 volts.

Years there are only tapes of transformers ... throw out the block. Do not finish. It is more expensive. Next buy - 24 Lata stands. It will be better. Now they all go with improved cooling, pushing from below, and it is quieter, and the chip of the pulse formitor is more perfect.

Does it seem to me or is it the most banal charge for a laptop? In no stores Stopudoft have

Everest - not quite a power supply, but you can run heating;)