One of the most commonly used materials for finishing internal premises is drywall, allowing not only to align the walls as soon as possible, but also create partitions, niches and other designs. However, it is not enough only to build the desired structure, it must also be brought to a decent appearance. As a rule, constructions from drywall are separated by the same materials as carrying walls: paint or wipes. And if the light paper wallpapers used earlier, which were often glued to the Vangest, today the use of modern materials requires special attention to smoothness and evenness of the walls of the wall. Therefore, we propose to consider how the plasterboard putty is done with their own hands. Step-by-step instructions will be presented below.

Why put plasterboard plasterboard?

Despite the fact that the plasterboard has a fairly smooth surface before performing the finishing finish on it, it is necessary to crate all flaws formed on the material during installation. In addition, it will be necessary to close the joints of the sheets both in the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall and in the corners. For this, two types of preparatory finishes are used: plastering and shtlock.

The plaster is a coarse material and is used to align the surface at large flaws, therefore usually applied on concrete walls. The putty has a fine-grained structure that allows you to almost perfectly align plasterboard for finishing finish. This moment is most important during the subsequent coloring and pasting with wallpaper. If the wall does not have an ideal smooth surface, the wallpaper will begin to disperse, and even the most minor irregularities will be visible on the painted drywall.

In addition, the spacure of the walls (drywall), its own hands produced, is an additional protection, which is important when finishing. For example, if you stick the wallpaper directly to the GLC, there is a high probability that it will swell from glue, and new wallpapers will be blocked. In addition, when changing the finish, you are guaranteed to remove not only the old material, but also a layer of plasterboard.

Features of Shpalian

The rope process is a fairly difficult and requires special accuracy and care. Therefore, many prefer to order these works from professionals. However, in order to save it, you can perform such a procedure as the putty of plasterboard, with their own hands. To do this, you just need to be patient and learn some of the surfaces of the surface processing in each case. And also to master the basic techniques of shtclovania, as the putty of plasterboard under the wallpaper, with their own hands made, differs from the work on the preparation of the wall under painting. It is necessary to consider.

Special attention deserves the shtlocking of joints and corners, since this work requires preliminary laying of sickle tape (special building material to strengthen the seams). It will prevent the appearance of cracks that may appear from vibration or expansion of drywall under the action of moisture.

Selection of material

Today, the market presents a sufficiently large number of different which differ in structure: coarse-grained start and smaller finish.

The starting, the price of which is the lowest of all options, is used to equalize irregularities with surface drops from 0.5 to 2 cm. Therefore, it is practically not used for drywall. As a rule, this material is immediately covered with an finishing putty, which has a more fine-grained structure. With the help of it, you can immediately align the surface to the perfectly smooth state suitable even for painting. However, in the case of improper installation of plasterboard or visible damage, it is recommended to first impose a layer of starting putty and wait for it to complete grazing. After that, to process to and then process the surface with the finishing agent.

Varieties

In addition, they make a difference in the composition of putty. It happens on a plaster, cement and polymer basis. Depending on the room in which repairs are carried out, and the operating conditions are chosen the most appropriate means for finishing. Each view has its advantages and disadvantages:

• Gypsum putty has a very small structure, so it is precisely it often acts as an finishing finish. However, the use of this material in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since such a composition absorbs moisture from the air well, and in this case, even the surface of the surface will not help.
• For high humidity places, it is preferable to use a cement-based putty, which is very resistant to such an influence. In addition, this species is characterized by high strength and durability of the coating.
• The polymer species is the most plastic and is best applied to the surface, so the putty is most often performed by this material.

What putty to use better?

Another difference in the material is the view in which it is sold. There are two options: a dry mix in bags and a finished solution, similar to sour cream, in buckets.

On the one hand, the ready-made putty is most convenient, which can be applied without prior intimidation. While the preparation of a dry mix requires certain knowledge and skill.

On the other hand, a finished solution is 1.3-1.6 times more expensive. Therefore, it makes sense to carefully approach the selection of material. It should be borne in mind that the cement putty is produced only in the form of a dry mixture due to the characteristics of its composition.

If we talk about drywall, then in residential rooms it is preferable to use a gypsum putty, and in such rooms, like a bathroom, kitchen or bathroom, polymer.

How to put plasterboard: step-by-step instructions

Before proceeding to such work like a putty of plasterboard with your own hands, the base is pre-cleanedly cleaned from dust and dirt after mounting work. In case, in some places there are details of the material, they must be removed and cleaned with shallow sandpaper. Also, do not forget to check how the screws are spinning. Ideally, they should be slightly recessed in a sheet of plasterboard and do not perform above the surface.

After that, the surface is ground, not leaving the untreated areas. At the same time, it is best to apply 2-3 layers of primer. This is necessary for good adhesion material. When applied, it will not only further clean the surface from dust, but also impresses the pores of the plasterboard. After applying each layer, the primer is mandatory to be left to complete drying. Drying time can be viewed on the packaging of a particular means.

By the way, it is worth knowing that the technique of putty drywall does with their own hands implies the finishing of the entire surface of the wall. Do not save on building materials and process only angles or joints. Subsequently, when painting or plasterboard, without a coating, it will be strongly allocated.

Preliminary preparation of plasterboard

At the next stage, it is necessary to close all the more or less noticeable depressions on the surface of the plasterboard. These include holes from unsuccessfully screwed screws, damage obtained during installation, and other flaws. For these works, a small spatula is usually used.

It is also done to put the junction of plasterboard joints with their own hands, and it is preferable to choose the composition specifically designed for these purposes. Initially, we are making a sulfyan tape. To do this, on a putty, pre-applied to plasterboard, applied the tape, which is closed by another layer of composition. After that, the material is thoroughly recurrected by a wide spatula and a further putty plasterboard is performed with their own hands.

The angles are treated in the same way, the only difference is that special plastic or metal corners are used for these joints. They protect the edges of drywall from mechanical damage. It is especially relevant for external angles, such as partitions or niches. For inner corners, if the sheets are tight and there is no big gaps, it is permissible to use the same sickle tape.

Application of spacure material on the wall

In order to properly apply putting on the surface, two types of spatula are used: the material itself is superimposed and spacked with a large spatula, small apply as an auxiliary tool.

If it is initially assumed to apply a starting putty, then, depending on the state of the drywall, it is applied a sufficiently thick layer in the range of 0.5-2 cm. If a layer of greater thickness is needed, it is theoretically, it can be performed in two stages. However, the cost of such repairs will be quite expensive. Therefore, for the first leveling layer it is better to apply plaster. This material is much cheaper.

In any case, the first layer is necessarily left until complete drying, after which it is ground and dried again. Next, you can apply the next leveling layer. The starting spacure of the drywall is performed to the maximum smooth surface. After that it will dry and ground.

Features of the finishing putty

After the layer of the starting putty (if it was needed), the finishing composition is applied. This operation is more painting, as it is performed by a layer of literally several millimeters. The finish putty is applied very neat and small portions. Align the maximum and dry. After that, it is necessary to carefully check the smoothness of the surface. The fact is that there are sometimes small bumps or, strung, the material, on the contrary, falls somewhat. The depressions are permissible to livert on some other composition, the hillocks are fairly easily removed by fine-grained sandpaper.

After the perfectly smooth surface is reached, it must be stuck with zero sandpaper to absolute smoothness.

Ceiling processing

A particularly complex measure is the shtlocking ceiling, which is recommended to be carried out by a polymer elastic putty. Despite the fact that the material is enough plastic, the application of the composition on the horizontal surface will require a lot of effort. Shpening is performed by smooth movements towards themselves. This process is quite complicated for beginners in construction business. Therefore, it is better to first see how someone else is performed to put the ceiling ceiling from the plasterboard with their own hands. Video works of professionals will clearly show all the nuances of this procedure.

All preliminary and subsequent operations, such as sandpaper, are carried out in the same way as in the case of a vertical surface.

How to put on different finishing finish?

There are several nuances of drywall processing, which depend on the subsequent decoration of the walls:

• If it is later planned to stick to light paper wallpaper, the putty of drywall under the wallpaper should be carried out especially carefully, with the mandatory alignment of all flaws. Otherwise, after finishing works, all the flaws come on the material.
• For heavy wallpapers, on the contrary, it is preferable to use only a starting putty, which will create a rough coating. This basis will be easier to stick wallpaper due to good material adhesion.
• The most complex is considered to put the plasterboard with their own hands under painting, in this case the surface is smoothed to the perfect state. Professionals even use lamp for these purposes, under the light of which the slightest flaws are revealed.

After decorating the ceiling and walls with standard sheets, the question of how to put plasterboard, each developer or host of the room dried to the new-fashioned repair. The need to sharpen plasterboard becomes apparent when looking at smooth walls, overshadowed with nonethetical joints and fastening elements between them. The putty of drywall do it yourself is quite a real and simple case, especially if you know what is better to put the plasterboard.

The need for work and infirm materials

Putty for drywall is a mandatory component if further finishing works are planned. Even building firms producing finishing tiles and decorative coatings are specified on the need for putty in GLCs and decorative coatings, however, some insist on putting on the plasterboard walls in places of fasteners and joints.

The need for alignment and shtcocking becomes especially obvious when not only joints and fastenings are detected, but also deformations, chips and cracks that were formed during transportation. The main axioms of working with plasterboard says:

• putty on plasterboard must be carried out in a full amount, provided that the wall decoration consists of them;
• the plaster of plasterboard walls at least in one layer of leveling coating is necessary under the wallpaper with their own hands, and under paper wallpaper plasterboard walls need to be thoroughly processed;
• under the decorative tile or plaster, applying putty on the joints of the seams and the corners of the plasterboard, the masking of the fasteners and the putty of the inner corners;
• if the final decor consists of natural and expensive materials, the putty of the jacks of drywall is carried out with the grid.

The technology of gypsum carcarter is available even to the amateur, and the finishing putty of drywall is necessary in any case, if further decorative decoration is supposed.

Plasterboard walls in some cases should be carried out using primer. Its use as a separate means for alignment, and not to prepare drywall for putty, recommended by some specialists.

The use of primer, before shaking the drywall, allows you to achieve two additional prerogatives, one of which is to reduce the likelihood of bubbles on plasterboard coatings, and the second is the maximum alignment of the compound while reducing the moisture ability of the gypsum.

From the main tools for the process they will need spatulas, and from materials - primer and putty.

How to choose the appropriate composition

Before placing drywall, it is necessary to decide with the type of room, because it depends on it and the plasterboard and the further durability of the work being carried out. It is necessary to calculate the placement of the room, to make an approximate view of the quantity that will be required and to decide on the estimated budget of the upcoming stage of repair.

The preparation capacity of the package and the nature of the acquired material depends on how expensive or cheap will cost the upcoming spreading of the putty. With the relative freedom of the expendable tools, you can purchase different types under the base and finishing layer, to buy very high-quality compounds with additional functionality.

Do not make the preparation of putty mixtures from the dry composition, but to open a bucket and immediately begin to perform work.

The starting mixture can be separate to create a solid layer or targeted for spitting and processing a corner, joint, fasteners and deformities of a sheet formed during the transportation and work of work. To determine the budget, it matters whether the mixture is purchased in a dry or finished form, and whether specialized additives are submitted to it in order to improve and add properties in the apparent putty.

Dry makeup can be stored for a long time and at any temperature, and ready to use immediately.

How to determine the choice of composition

The finishing can be carried out using a special composition, but recently becoming increasingly preference is given to universal mixtures when they are going to put a putty. These compositions can also be used for the basic, and for the finishing layer, and thus disappears the need for a particularly inflating over the spray layer.

How to put plasterboard and what to apply the composition, solve, mainly by the type of placed room:

• kitchen and bathroom, and sometimes a toilet (rooms with high humidity) is preferable to cover with polymer or concrete composition;
• living room, bedroom, children's (dry rooms) will be perfectly perceived and plaster putty;
• buildings where dry and high temperature is observed, it is better to cover with a polymer or plaster, because the concrete can give shrinkage.

The easiest way out when choosing and how to put plasterboard, gypsum and concrete mixes, which have shortcomings and dignity in the form of a relatively low cost.

The most optimal output is to buy an acrylic universal dry putty in a large package: and will be relatively inexpensive, and you can cook as much as necessary, and dry residue to store until the next time. And if the composition is universal, then the finishing finish, and the spacure of the seams, and can be used for any room.

Plate Corners, joints and fasteners

The optimal option in the choice: how to put the joints of the plasterboard, the use of special compositions and some necessary devices is considered. The shelving for the joints of the drywall is used either special or universal, but the optimal output should be noticed not in the composition of the problem of the problem zone, but how professionally it is done, and what kind of techniques were used. Seam, butt and fasteners are the main goal of the shtclothesia, and under heavy finish, some builders are only limited. For such work, you will need:

• serpian ribbon;
• perforated plastering corner;
• two spatulas: metal and rubber, different sizes;
• ready-made composition for work with seams;
• isolation from drafts;
• the temperature is not lower than +10 indoors;
• purified from dust and other contaminants work surfaces;
• special clothing to not get dirty;
• capacity for mixing the solution;
• basic to work in which a ready-made spittle is placed;
• surface equalizer;
• grinding means.

detailed instructions

Step-by-step instructional of such work consists of approximately as follows: the selected primer is applied to the wall and the joints are close to dry out, which are formed between the plasterboard sheets fixed on the metal profile. To decide how drywall is, it is necessary to see how expanding the gaps between the sheets that are formed from the bevelled edge.

Previously, check the fasteners elements, make sure that the screws of the self-press are on the same level with the surface, and, if not, eliminate existing shortcomings using a drill or cross screwdriver.

The technologies of the splocks of the seams are relatively simple and is that the seam is filled with the composition of up to half, after which it is closed with adhesive tape or sickle ribbon, which is pressed into a wet mixture with a spatula. The type of reinforcing ribbon matters depending on the intended outer decorative component. For greater strength, fiberglass serpent is taken, and for a smaller - paper component.

Outdoor angles are formed using perforated plastering corners, and how to put plasterboard angles applied from the outside of the angle, depending on the thickness of the metal perforated profile used.

How to put the inner corners of the plasterboard, it is best to look at the video:

In order for the masking of the fasteners to be made competently and qualified and performed its purpose, the composition is applied crosswise, only this can be made of sampes grooves, which, if not close, can be corrosion and spoil the wall.

Splashing of the main surfaces

Once the primer and the starting layer of dried, the outer angles are strengthened with perforated corners, which are fixed with the construction stapler and plate. After cutting, the perforated corner is installed on the corners. Window and door profiles are fixed and closed with a putty. After performing the most difficult stages, the application of the finish layer is no longer particular difficulties. It is simply applied to a smooth and homogeneous layer using two spatulas and leveled by subsequent grinding.

There are special compositions for finishing putty, which allow you to do without a encrypted process, because they are finely dispersed particles of the filler

Plasterboard sheets - the process is quite laborious and requiring a lot of time that is necessary to dry out the layers. The type of decorative coating, its visual component and ensuring long-term operation of the walls is those things that cost such costs. The decorative component can be changed over time, but the putty will help not damage the sheets of HCL and save the walls.

Plasterboard is the most popular and demanded building material, without which it is impossible to do when finishing the modern interior. It is a composite raw material, having a form of sheets of different lengths. Plasterboard is an environmentally friendly and safe material, it does not highlight toxins, it is non-combustible and fires, it is distinguished by good soundproofing and thermal insulation qualities. It absorbs moisture when it is excess and returns back if the air indoors are sufficient. Thanks to these qualities, plasterboard is a microclimate regulator, which is particularly important for residential premises. All of the above advantages fully explain great demand for this type of building material.

Application of drywall

Plasterboard is widely used for decoration and decoration of residential premises: it is used for alignment and interior decoration of walls, ceilings, manufacturing decorative elements, niches and construction of interroom and spatial partitions. It is also used in bathrooms and kitchens due to its waterproof and refractory properties. Material is in demand due to its versatility and excellent technological properties. Due to the fact that the plasterboard has a small weight, it is always easy to work with it. Plasterboard sheets can be given different shapes, they are easy to separate columns, arches, various transitions and differentials from one plane to another.

Basically, the ceiling finishing technology is simple, you can cope with it without special skills. The main problem when working with plasterboard is final finish. This article is on how to put plasterboard after mounting it on certain surfaces.

Necessary materials and tools that will be needed:

Narrow and wide spatula.

Universal primer and container for it.

Wide brush and roller with telescopic handle.

Serpenty or reinforcing tape.

Finish putty.

- sandpaper or other abrasive materials.

Screwdriver or cruciform screwdriver.

What you need to know about putting the surfaces covered with plasterboard

Mount the frame and shelter it is only part of the case, a lot depends on whether you know how to put the plasterboard. The main task of the putty is to align the surface.

Despite the external smooth sides of the plasterboard sheets, they have places that need to be smoothed: these are traces of the installation of self-tapping and shelves.

Plucking of drywall

First of all, the entire surface is ground, it is desirable to do in two layers. Next, you need to give primer to dry, and at this time you can dilute a dry mixture of putty and mix it thoroughly before the formation of a homogeneous mass, a consistency of similar with sour cream without lumps and any other foreign inclusions.

The putty can be sold already at the finished form, you do not need to dilute. The spacion mixture is applied to the surface and smoothes with a wide spatula. After drying, a primer is applied to the surface of the roller, and on top of the finishing layer.

The last putty is placed as follows: two spatula is taken first. On one there is our mixture, with the help of the other it is removed with small portions and applied to the surface at an angle so that all irregularities can be lured. Surplus are removed by auxiliary tool. And in the completion of the finish, the surface of the drywall is cleaned with abrasive materials. Next, the stripped wall is rejected again, and it is ready for the final finish.

Why is it necessary to put plasterboard?

Before placing drywall, you need to understand why do it. If you skip this important process, then the paint consumption will increase by about twice: it will have to apply not two layers of paint, but all four, since the plasterboard has properties to absorb moisture.

When the surfaces are covered with paper wallpaper, unpleasant situations may also occur. Through the thin layer of paper, the location of the self-position, joints and seams will be clearly noticeable. In addition, when replacing it will be impossible to remove old wallpaper, as they will disappear only with slices of drywall. Therefore, without processing these places, it is simply impossible to do, and the question of whether the plasterboard should be placed, disappears by itself.

Features of mounting sheets of plasterboard

When assembly work, small fragments of the sheet are used, which are attached to the profile frame close to each other. Only in rare cases are used whole sheets of plasterboard, which do not need to be broken.

It is cut by a building knife along the marked lines. Soldering on the one hand, the sheet breaks strictly along the markup line. Then the cardboard is cut from the back. After cutting and breaking the edge of the cut fragment will be uneven. For alignment, special plasterboard plaster plans are used. After all manipulations, it is necessary to make sure that the piece of sheet is suitable in size, and then proceed to its extender.

Fishing gypsummock

The gypsum wake-up extension is the processing of the cut fragment edge at a certain angle (from 30 to 45 degrees). The meaning of this action is to expose the inner gypsum base to expand the shit places of the joint. After all, if this is not done, then cracks will appear in this place, and in general, all the work on the finishing of surfaces will be done in vain. Especially since the cracks are usually visible after the finishing finish - pastiles with wallpaper or painting.

Methods of sealing jacks of plasterboard

The putty of the joints and holes from the self-tapping screws is a responsible and important thing, so it is necessary to provide high-quality processing of these places. How to put the jokes of plasterboard? Before you come close to this task, you should be stockpons of the necessary materials and tools. In addition to different sizes of spatulas, abrasive skins and, accordingly, the putty is the reinforcing tape itself.

The first stage on the sealing of joints and recesses from self-sufficiency begins with applying a ground layer. The primer reduces the costs of putty materials.

The next stage is the processing of all longitudinal junctions and recesses from fasteners. For these purposes, you can use a special or starting putty. Although it does not matter what is better to put the plasterboard, the main thing is that it is a dry mixture from the well-known manufacturer.

Depending on the purpose of the goal, it is possible to put out from 2 to 4 times, only after each layer it is necessary to apply a layer of primer.

Self-tapping screws are closed without the participation of reinforcement, they simply rub into a small spatula in the rest of the surface. Hats of selflessness in no case should stick on the surface, as they are rushing even through several layers of paint or putty.

Treatment of drywall is made only after complete drying of the reinforcing film, otherwise cracks may appear. The profile frame should be durable and tough, otherwise no reinforcement and even the use of better putty will save the design of the butt cracks.

Preparation of plasterboard walls to pasting wallpaper

After the plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall, it is necessary to prepare these surfaces to further finish. Next, consider the question of how to put the plasterboard under the wallpaper, because this processing of the wall allows you to get a qualitative result. It is not necessary to ignore this question, even if the work surfaces in the future will be covered with foam vinyl wallpaper with reinforcing effect.

Walls must be treated with primer, having hide all the holes from the screws and the seams. After drying on the surface with a spatula, a ready-made putty can be applied or a hand-made solution of water and a dry mixture, then it is recreated. After drying, the primer layer is applied again, and then the finish putty. At the end, the entire surface is treated with clouded abrasive materials and is again covered with primer. From this section, you learned how to put plasterboard under the wallpaper. This can be done personally, without the involvement of specialists.

Preparation of drywall under painting

On how to put the plasterboard under painting, we have already figured out almost everything, since the processes of preparation of walls under staining or pasting with wallpaper do not differ from each other. Painting of drywall provides for the application of the final layer on the starting putty, and before that, all the joints and recesses must be taken out, which leave the screws.

The thickness of the finish layer must be minimal - from 1 to 3 mm. Significant excess of the permissible thickness of the final layer of putty can lead to the formation of small cracks on the surface, which are very noticeable after painting. These are the basic rules concerning how to put plasterboard. Observing them, you can get a high-quality surface.

Gypsum County Partitions

Plasterboard is an excellent material for the construction of various partitions indoors. They have different thickness and configuration: can be straight, wave-like, with niches under the closet, etc. For example, a stepped partition is very functional: it simultaneously separates the space and at the same time it can carry a decorative function - it can be placed on her kashpo with flowers or Collection of statuettes or books.

With the help of a partition, you can visually combine the hallway and the living room: the interior will become air and lighter. Using drywall, old walls are aligned and updated old walls, they can be given any form and relief. Built-in racks will help to significantly save space, which is very important with a small apartment area.

Frequently asked questions about how to put the walls of plasterboard, we considered above, therefore it is not necessary to repeat. The main thing is to understand why it is necessary to prepare the walls: for pasting wallpaper or just for painting.

Ceiling of plasterboard

Plasterboard ceiling is an ornament of each interior. It may be single, two- and multi-level. The latter is more interest in the embodiment of designer designs. With the help of drywall, the ceiling can be given the shape of an ellipse, a circle, polyhedron and another, it all depends on the overall style of the room

Who already had experience in decoration of the walls in this way, he knows how to put the ceiling of plasterboard. All materials and tools are used the same. After complete drying of the past ceiling, it is necessary to make grinding so that there are no divorces. After you can proceed to color.

Plasterboard place is easy, the main thing is to adhere to the basic rules and techniques. The use of this material will help to give the walls desired relief.

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How to put plasterboard with your own hands - 2 common ways

For more than 20 years, plasterboard has been firmly held by the palm of the championship among the materials used for the interior decoration of the premises. But simply mount the frame from GLC little, the surface still needs to be prepared for the finishing finish. And while still building science did not come up with anything better than putty. In this article we will talk about two ways to put plasterboard at home and about all the intricacies that are connected with this process.

Why don't you need a putty GLK

I have repeatedly had to hear from home masters Questions such as you need to put off the GLC under the wallpaper or is it possible to paint drywall without putty. I will say right away, such a finish is obligatory and there are several good reasons:

• First, about the need to apply putty under the wallpaper. In theory, if you take paper on paper, then everything will be kept very firmly. But this is exactly the problem. When the time it comes to change the pretty faded wallpaper, you will not be able to rip them, or rather, they will remove along with the top layer of cardboard. After that, you have to change all the cladding, since without the top layer, the GLC will not last for a long time. The ripples of drywall performs the role of laying, and with such a gasket you can change the wallpaper at least every year;

• Now it is possible to paint drywall without putty. Again, paper only at first glance seems perfectly smooth. It is worth you to apply any liquid as it will inevitably begin to deform slightly, but on the walls, and especially on the ceiling, such deformations will be very noticeable. And no soil will help in this case. Only putty drywall is capable of perfectly align the surface;
• There are some more powerful nuances: Well, if you hired a brigade of real professionals and everything is mounted with high quality. But according to my observations, this happens not always, among the workers there are sometimes halchiers, and after them there remains a lot of small defects. Plus, some home masters are taken to make a frame for plasterboard with their own hands, as a result, all the same small defects are obtained. And here also to the aid comes technology to put plasterboard;
• It happens, people are far from construction wisdoms are interested in what is better than plasterboard or putty. So, if you do not take into account the creation of a different kind of suitable attachments, then both start-up and finish putty should be applied to smooth walls or ceiling. But in our homes such walls are extremely rare, and drywall is the fastest and easy way to perfectly align the surface. Believe me for the word, plastering is much more difficult, longer and dirtier, there is nothing to do without experience.

There is another little moment, indirectly related to this topic. Often disputes arise about how to speak and write, putty or putty. I asked the philologist, and it turned out that both options are correct. Just through the "T", the term is written in official documents, and in everyday life there is a shit.

We are determined with the material

It is no secret that the modern market offers a lot of diverse materials. And here sometimes even quite an experienced person is difficult to decide which putty is better. And most importantly, the better to put the plasterboard.

There is no unambiguous answer here, so I dare to tell about my own experience and observations. Experienced masters often take one composition for treating corners and joints, and the decoration of smooth, large areas is performed by another material.

For corners and joints now selling excellent material from the German brand "Knauf". These are the dry compounds "Fugenfuller" or "Uniflot". The corners and other responsible places they keep perfectly, but the problem is that these compositions are quite capricious.

Let's start with the fact that they are very quickly frozen, we need to be kneaded, because after 20 minutes the mixture will begin to be captured and diluted with water is useless. Materials from "Knauf" are quite sensitive to the purity of the container and the tool, if there are particles from the old kneading, the composition will grab much faster.

Use a building mixer and a large container to knead German putty from "Knauf", at home there is no point, you can simply may not work out. Even experienced masters once seen 1 - 1.5kg and bred it by hand by the usual spatula.

For the processing of large surfaces, at the moment, the "Old" mixture is popular, the finish from the brand "prospectors" and "Log". They are all good, but before choosing a putty of any brand, it will be worth familiar with the recommendations.

Popular gypsum wrappers brands
Trademark	General characteristics
Sheetrock.	The mixture of "LCD" is produced from us, but on the American license from the company USG. It is realized in the finished form and is packaged in the container from 3.5 to 17 kg. Consumption of putty on 1m2 approximately 500g. The composition is quite thick, so sometimes it has to dilute it with water to the desired viscosity.
Vetonit lr.	The composition "Old LD" is also implemented in the finished form, it is made on the basis of polymers and is characterized by excellent quality, the consumption of putty on 1m2 of about 800g. After opening the container, the putty is in working condition for at least a day. But that all the buckets are not tested, it is better to select the right amount from it, and the rest of the mass is polyethylene. Just impose on a viscous mass of a segment of polyethylene and see that there is no air under it.
Students	The finishing putty from the "prospectors" is produced in dry form and is packaged in bags of 12 and 20 kg. Consumption of putty on 1m2 - 700g. After kneading, such a mixture is kept in working condition up to 40 minutes.
Students	The brand "Students" also produces a mixture of PVA glue prepared for use. The price of it is certainly higher, but it is gross superb.

From myself I can add: generally putty are on cement, plaster and polymer basis. So, the materials on a cement basis are more suitable for wet rooms and rooms with large temperature drops: kitchen, entrance hall, services, etc.

Gypsum mixes are easier to apply, but they are used solely in dry heated rooms. As for the polymers, they are often universal and it's nice to work with them, it is only bad that the price is sometimes biting.

Naturally, all the material brands in one article cannot be remembered. So when I still do not know with what putty I will have to work, in general, I expect that it will take about 1.1kg on cement formulations for 1 m². On the gypsum about 1kg per 1m², and the polymer putty on the plasterboard usually goes in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Policalogram on 1m².

What putty to choose a little figured out, now a few words about choosing a soil under plasterboard. From the most famous brands you can call "Tiefengrund" from "Knauf" and "Cerezite St17", but besides them there is a mass of other decent compositions. The main thing is to choose a soil for highly absorbing surfaces.

There is another golden rule of soil selection: try to take the soil from the same manufacturer from which you took putty. After all, all decent firms engaged in the production of putty mixtures necessarily produce soil under them. And when you buy a soil from another company, there is always a risk of rejection.

In no case do not think to take the soil on an alkyd basis. For drywall, it is categorically contraindicated. If you apply an alkyd soil onto a sheet, the cardboard will begin to flap and the surface will go with bubbles.

Method # 1: Standard putty under wallpaper and painting

As is known in the overwhelming majority of cases, drywall are covered with wallpaper or just paint sheets, this method is considered to be basic. Therefore, I will stop in more detail on it, a step-by-step instruction will be given here for novice home masters.

Stand in detail on how to apply the primer I do not see much sense. Soil Substance, it is just necessary to shake it, after which you can dip your brush or roller into it and apply on drywall. As a rule, there is enough 1 layer, but for complex surfaces, which we will talk about in Method 2, you need to primitive GCC in 2 layers.

As for the instrument, there is also nothing complicated here. In addition to the tanks, you will need 3 types of metal spatulas with a length of the blade 6 cm, 12 - 15 cm and 30 - 40 cm.

Work with corners

According to his own experience, I know that for a novice master, the question is how to put out the external and internal angles correctly and the internal angles is hardly the most important. Both external and internal angles need to be strengthened, because it is the most vulnerable part of any design.

For reinforcement of external corners, 2 types of special perforated corners are available:

1. Metal, most often aluminum;
2. Plastic.

• Smooth, right angle is strengthened with aluminum corners. They are usually and reinforced. The size of the wing of a conventional corner often does not exceed 2 - 3 cm. On the enhanced corner wing, a small up to 5 cm reinforcing grid is still attached;
• In order to fix such a corner, you need to base the small or medium spatula to 10 mm putty. Too much equal composition on the basis is not worth it, it is not necessary for special accuracy and beauty;
• After that, the corner neatly, with the control on a plumb or the level, is consumed in the putty. It is necessary to press until it stops, but without fanatism, so that the composition is squeezed through the holes of the perforation, and the corner took its place and did not be rejected;

Aluminum corners are fragile, and quite often with transportation bent. So, if the deformation is strong, then attempts to align them will not lead to anything, forget for it. Light strain can be fixed and installing somewhere in the distant corner so that it is less visible.

• Now the outdated composition of the middle spatula should be as high quality as possible. Your task is to make the corner completely disappeared under putty. As a rule, what got out of the corner is not enough. Therefore, do not hesitate to add the composition as needed;
• But this is not all: one starting layer you will not be able to perfectly remove the angle. Make how can you, and leave it alone for 2 - 3 hours to grab;
• But now the finish layer you need to try to bring to mind. I will say right away, you are ideal for you hardly, but you need to try. The greater you will apply the finishing layer, the less later you rub it with a sandpaper or plaster grid. Although it is necessary to rub in any case;
• There is one professional trick here. So that the angle is really smooth, the finishing, aligning layer needs to be applied in turn. That is, you first align one side of the angle, and when it starts to be captured, go to the second.

Reinforcing plastic corners are considered universal material. They can be equipped with both smooth and rounded corners, for example, arches or curly two-level ceilings.

But novice masters, I always advise you to use plastic only on rounded structures. On the even angles it is worth a little more flexible plastic, and the angle will become a curve. Therefore, remember, the metal goes to smooth corners, and the plastic on the rounded.

The plastic fastening to the plasterboard base is slightly different from the previous version. More precisely, this method can also be used, but there is an output simpler: plastic corners can be "targeted" to GLC construction staple number 8. Otherwise, it's all the same, put on a putty in 2 layers, and when everything finally dries, grind.

Internal angles are reinforced by fiberglass ribbon sickle. Previously, she had to glue on PVA. Now it is already sold with an adhesive composition applied on one side, so no problems arise:

• This very sickle you need to stick on both sides of the inner corner. Note, on each side it is necessary to glue a separate tape. If you bend one tape and stick it into the angle, then wrinkles will go with time;
• Just as with an outer angle, first put sand and align one side, and when it snacks slightly, go to the second side;
• Internal angles, especially in the ceiling area there is another disease. Real builders often leave between the wall and the gap ceiling, sometimes clearances can reach 20 mm. And if you didn't make such a marriage in time, then you will have to correct everything. There is nothing particularly difficult here, but it will be necessary to believe;

• It will be necessary to mix a thick putty solution and with the help of a small or medium spatula, gradually apply it to the edge of the sheet. It may take a certain time, since immediately the big slit is hard enough and you will have to wait until the putty will be filled with a layer behind the layer;
• When the slot is eliminated, you will need to be slightly fired with the defects with a knife, if any and further act on standard technology. That is, on both sides of the angle with glue sulfyanka and in turn, these parties align.

Close up of joints between sheets

Before shaking plasterboard on the joints, these joints will need to be trained. Often, people who have never come across the arrangement of plasterboard, believe that if the joint is connected in qualitatively, it is practically not visible in other words, it is not necessary to put it.

As a result, after sticking of wallpapers on such joints, unlucky wrinkles and chances are obtained, because even the most durable and high-quality design in any case will be slightly "walking".

• In order to compensate for minor framework mackelings, any joint should be reinforced by the same sickle tape;
• But before sticking the sickle, the connection between the sheets needs to be slightly expanded, otherwise the thin layer of putty will inevitably crack and peel;

• The trimming technique is elementary simple: in turn, the edge of each leaf will need to be cut off with a regular construction knife at an angle of 45º. Such a groove should be buried at least half a sheet;
• After the trimming, it will not be superfluous to go through the groove of the ground, so that the composition took better. Naturally, the soil must be given to dry;
• Now it's time to paste our sickle over the top and thoroughly smear the joint with a spacure composition;

• You need to take a middle spatula, impose a little putty on the center of the blade and holding a spatula perpendicular to the cut gradually to smell the joint;
• The first layer is the most important, here you need to ensure that the groove is fully covered. There should not be bubbles of air or any other defects;

• When the composition grabbies, he will give a small shrinkage and the groove will manifest itself again. With the help of the second finish layer, you see the perfectly smooth surface, of course, as much as possible.

Go to the arrangement of the plane

Now let's talk about how to properly put the plasterboard on the plane. But before proceeding with the main part of the work, we will need to "figure out" with fixing screws.

These elements of the design in no case should not perform above the sheet plane, otherwise they will then be shown. To determine "peeking" self-tapping screws, take a spatula and blade along the sheet.

You don't need to crush hard, you will feel so you feel when the spatula blade hooked for such a "partisan". Then just touch him slightly.

Note, the self-sufficiency hat must be divered into a sheet of no more than 1 maximum of 2 mm. If you have found a self-tapping screw that recessed half a sheet or even deeper, then according to the instructions you need to unscrew, and in order not to check it, fix it with a new self-tapping screw. But only a new self-sufficiency should be driven no closer than 50 mm from the old one.

Although if you feel honestly, I do not bother with such work. If I found a strongly recessed self-tapping screw, then for insurance, I chase about fifty millimeters from him a new one and everything. In any case, then everything wiles.

Mazing Self-tapping screws on drywall. An occupation can be said to "children's". Take a small spatula and cross-closer pumps. I give you a guarantee if you even do it for the first time, after the tenth screw, you already have two confident smears to cope with this work.

Sometimes people are interested in how to find self-tapping screws in a plasterboard under putty. I heard a lot of ideas. Some offered to use a magnet, others advise to buy a dear scanner and "enlighten" design. And another mass of different, to put it mildly, unreasonable ideas.

But on the basis of my experience, I can say that without damaging the putty layer, you will not find the exact place of self-contained input.

Therefore, at first it will be necessary to catch a plane and decide where this plank is passed. And then take a sewer and start picking. Sooner or later you will be lucky. Having found in a row 2 Samorza, it will be easier for you to find all the others, as they often drive on one line.

Well, yes, we were a little distracted from the main topic. Corners are covered, jokes are embedded, self-tapping screws. Now it's time to start the plasterboard shlasaw on the plane. Although it is considered not obligatory, but I prefer to breach the entire design before putting on the plane.

The plane is put off with a wide spatula and one of the main conditions of success is the quality of the blades of your tool. If there are jar on the blades, do not attempt to stick and pollery them. Better buy a new spatula, it is easier than then on all planes to grind divorces from such defects.

• The processing of the planes is always starting from the corner, from which it is already your business. I always recommend taking newcomers to take the farthest and imperceptible angle. While you come to the central parts, you already learn something;
• Put a bucket with the composition next, each step to the side will take your time, and the composition, as you remember, quickly freezes;
• On the blade of a wide spatula, the putty is superimposed by a small or medium spatula. And do not try to impose more. If the solution on the blade is much, then on the plane you will have a breath, and then you will have to grind out the emery, which believe me, is not so easy;
• The composition is applied with wave-like movements and levels from the center to the edges in different directions;
• After you finish with the first layer, let him slightly grab, but not to the end. On the raw surface immediately begin to apply the second finishing layer, the technology of putty here will be the same;

• Now you need to wait until everything dries, as a rule, it takes no less than a day;
• Ends all grinding. To prepare the surface under the flooding wallpaper, it is enough to take the grinding mesh No. 180 - 220, consolidate it on the block and walk throughout the plane, aligning all visually noticeable defects. And after that it is once again projected;
• Preparation for staining more laborious. First, the above-mentioned grid is also used for grinding, but it is impossible to align the surface. Therefore, then you go to medium and subtle emery;

With ordinary day lighting, you will not be able to polish the walls and the ceiling to the perfect state. Here you will need to take a lamp on the long carrying and as they grind, allow this lamp to direct the light at an angle to the plane. I usually keep the lamp in one hand, and the other grinding plane. Of course, it is heavy, but otherwise there is no way.

• When the surface is brought to the ideal, it will be necessary only to brush dust and everything. Under painting the walls and the ceiling is not necessary, you can spoil everything.

Method number 2: putty under decorative surfaces

As I mentioned, for the most part, plasterboard is floating with wallpaper or painted. But there are cases when decorative, for example, Venetian plaster is placed on top of GLC. Then the design must be reinforced not only in the corners and on the junctions, it should be strengthened throughout the plane.

The same thorough preparation requires construction mounted in new buildings. After all, a new home, regardless of what it was built, in any case will be the first 2nd year to give a minor shrinkage. Visually this is not visible, but attachments can squeeze and then the coating crackles.

For reinforcement on the plane, the so-called glass cholester is now used. In the people, it is also called a cobweb. It is glued on the PVA or not a special glue, designed for glasses.

In fact, this technology is a slight improvement in the described method, because almost everything is done herein in a similar sequence.

• It all starts with the arrangement of the angles, seal the seams and the smell of self-tapping. After that, it will be necessary to apply the starting layer of putty across the entire plane, slightly sweep it and process to it;
• Further improvements begin. First of all, the surface is abundantly lubricated with glue and the peaks are glued in advance the cutting glasses of glass cholester. Taste is made at 3 - 4 cm;
• A spatula or just hands will need to be expelled from under the canvas all air bubbles;

• In order for these adolescents on the borders of the cloths, did not spoil the view in the future, you will need to take a building knife and cut out the back of the middle. After you remove the segments, the canvases will comply clearly;
• It is impossible to allow the joints between the sheets of GLK and the cavalry of the cage coincides;
• When the surface is completely saved, it will need to quarrel again with glue and leave to dry;
• The next day you can proceed to finishing shuttering. For decorative plaster, we prepare the surface as well as under the wallpaper. That is, slightly sneak and coated with soil;

• How GLC is preparing for dyeing, I have already written above. You can theoretically paint and without applying the finish putty, but the surface will not be perfect. Although in some cases everything can be issued for the creative idea of \u200b\u200bthe designer.

How much everything goes in time

In fact, the question is far from idle, because each of us appreciates your time. In addition, there is little pleasant, living in a state of repair. Any owner wants to complete all quickly.

Let's walk away from the very beginning. We will not take a whole room, take one plane, for example, a smooth wall.

• At the applying of the soil will take no more than half an hour. But now so that he will need, it will take about 5 - 7 hours. And this, provided that the temperature in the room hesitates around 20 - 25ºС;
• Cutting the joints, sticking the sickle and putty will occupy 1 - 2 hours, but for at least a day will go drying. By the way, you can immediately close the self-tapping screws, you will spend no more than half an hour;
• The arrangement of the corners takes an average of 2 to 3 hours. After that, you need to wait again until they dry;
• Putty on the plane is the longest process. Depending on the wall square, it is spent up to 7 hours, plus a day per drying. And layers of these, how do you remember should be two, so consider;
• On the grinding under the wallpaper you need no more than an hour, plus the ground. But under painting you can grind and 3 - 4 hours, this is already how you will be obtained;
• As you can see, even if one day combine the arrangement of corners, screws and junctions, then everything, about everything, with all drying of primers and grinding will take at least 3 to 5 days.

In no case cannot be used fast drying methods, for example, a thermal gun. Such high-speed drying will inevitably lead to an abnormal shrinkage and cracking of putty.

Output

Summing up all the above, it should be noted that before putting the plasterboard with their own hands, you need to think about several times. In the theory, there is nothing particularly difficult here, but in practice it is pretty hard and considerable time.

In the photo and video, this article shows some subtleties of the process. And if it is not clear, welcome to the comments, talk.

October 6, 2016.

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