Phalaenopsis orchid care. Phalaenopsis orchid care at home Phalaenopsis orchid care transplant and watering

Orchids on the windowsill are the dream of most amateur flower growers. But many do not dare to plant them, fearing difficulties in the course of work. Indeed, these flowers are quite capricious. But there are exceptions, for example, the phalaenopsis orchid. They look no less impressive than other varieties, and caring for them at home is incomparably easier. The flower is quite suitable for a novice grower who wants to "work out" before starting to cultivate Cattleya, Miltonia and Ludisia.

What does a phalaenopsis orchid look like?

Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis) is one of the many representatives of the Orchid family, a perennial epiphytic plant. In nature, most varieties of this orchid can be found in Southeast Asia, the Philippines, Indonesia, and other islands of the Malay Archipelago. They also grow in other regions with a humid tropical climate.

In nature, phalaenopsis most often settles on tree trunks, using them as a support.

The name ("phalaenopsis" means "resembling a moth"), the plant owes a curiosity. One night in the dark, the director of the Leiden Botanical Garden, Karl Ludwig Blume, who studied the flora of one of the islands between Asia and Australia, mistook these flowers for butterflies.

The average height of an orchid is 50–70 cm. The stem is very short. The leaves are large, fleshy to the touch, up to 30-35 cm long. On each orchid, a maximum of 4-6 leaves are formed at the same time, no more than two per year.

The stem of the phalaenopsis is almost invisible, there are no pseudobulbs, the peduncle often bends

The root system of the plant is very developed, because in nature it absorbs moisture and nutrients for the most part directly from the air. Healthy roots are greenish-silver. Phalaenopsis is an epiphyte, therefore it does not have pseudobulbs typical of most other orchids.

The roots of phalaenopsis are covered with a thick layer of velamen - a tissue with which the plant draws moisture and nutrients from the air.

In the countries of North America and Western Europe, phalaenopsis are practically "disposable" plants. A blooming orchid is purchased, when flowering ends, it is simply thrown away.

The height of the curved peduncle reaches 70–80 cm. Each of them has from five to twenty or more flowers with a diameter of 3–8 cm. The central petal (labellum or the so-called lip) contrasts sharply with the rest, standing out with a brighter color and / or a pattern of specks, strokes, stripes, spots. Most often there are different shades of pink, yellow, lilac, green, as well as white and creamy beige. The buds are formed at any time of the year; this orchid does not have a pronounced dormant period. Flowering, depending on the species, lasts from two months to six months.

Phalaenopsis is distinguished by the duration and abundance of flowering

Video: description of phalaenopsis

Varieties popular with flower growers

In nature, there are about 40 varieties of phalaenopsis. But not everyone has adapted to the climate of modern apartments, which is radically different from their usual conditions.

Most often, gardeners grow:

• Phalaenopsis horse (Equestris). It grows naturally in Taiwan and the Philippines. Peduncle inky purple. When the first buds open, it gradually lengthens, more and more flowers are formed. Due to this, flowering stretches for 4-5 months. The flowers are pastel pink, medium-sized (2-3 cm in diameter). In optimal conditions, it blooms twice a year - in spring and autumn.
• Deer-horned Phalaenopsis (Cornucervi). It is most common on the islands of Kalimantan and Sumatra. It owes its name to the unusual shape of the peduncle - it is flattened, branched, with small outgrowths where the buds are formed. Its height is about 40 cm. Each peduncle has 7–12 flowers. The petals are greenish-yellow with red spots, the “lip” is snow-white.
• Phalaenopsis adorable or pleasant (Amabilis). One of the most common varieties in home floriculture. The height of the plant is about 70 cm, the length of the drooping intensively branching peduncle is up to 1.5 m. Each of them has 20-30 flowers with creamy white or pinkish-yellow petals and a white-yellow-purple "lip". In nature, their number reaches a hundred. Flower diameter - 8 cm or more. The peak of flowering occurs in late spring and early summer. The buds spread a pleasant aroma reminiscent of orange blossom.
• Phalaenopsis Stewart (Stuartiana). Distinguished by the variegated color of the leaves. The peduncle is intensely branching, on each “shoot” there are 15–20 flowers 4–5 cm in diameter. The main tone of the petals is white or cream (with a dark scarlet spot at the base), the “lip” is orange-yellow with small burgundy spots. Blooms mainly in winter.
• Phalaenopsis Schiller (Schilleriana). "Parent" of most breeding hybrids. It occurs naturally only in the Philippines. The bright green leaves are covered with silvery and dark emerald spots on the outside, the underside is dull red. Peduncle up to 1 m high. Flowers 6–7 cm in diameter. Petals are pinkish-lilac, the shade saturated at the base gradually turns pale closer to the tip. The "lip" is forked, somewhat similar to a two-pronged fork. The peak of flowering occurs in the winter. Properly cared for mature plants often form whole cascades of buds.
• Phalaenopsis Luddemann (Lueddemanniana). The plant is about 15–20 cm high, the peduncle stretches up to 30 cm. Each has a maximum of 7 flowers 3–4 cm in diameter, which have a pleasant unobtrusive aroma. The petals are lilac-pink, sometimes there are blotches and stripes, white, as well as various shades of yellow and burgundy. Blooms almost all year round. The leaves are light, salad shade.
• Phalaenopsis Sander (Sanderiana). Quite a rare variety. The leaves are variegated. Peduncles 1.5 m or more high, drooping. On each up to 50 buds. The petals are white-lilac, the "lip" is cream, with yellow veins. The peak of flowering is in the summer.
• Phalaenopsis pink (Rosea). A natural miniature orchid no more than 10–15 cm high. The leaf length is 8–10 cm. The peduncle is curved, it has 10–16 flowers up to 3 cm in diameter. The petals can be white-pink or crimson.
• Phalaenopsis Parish (Parisii). Another natural miniature orchid. The height of the peduncle is up to 15 cm, the length of the rich green leaves is about 20 cm. On each peduncle, 8–10 small (1.5–2 cm in diameter) flowers bloom simultaneously with cream or vanilla-colored petals. The "lip" is very wide, painted maroon or purple. The aroma is rich, sugary-sweet, like candy.
• Phalaenopsis giant (Gigantea). The name, as you might guess, owes its size. The length of the leaf is up to 1 m, the peduncles are short, only 40–50 cm. Each bud forms 25–30 buds with a diameter of 5–7 cm. The flowers have a slight smell reminiscent of the aroma of citrus. The color of the petals varies from white and pale yellow to lime and olive. A pattern of purple or chocolate spots and stripes is characteristic.
• Ambon phalaenopsis (Amboinensis). The length of the leaves and the height of the curved peduncle is approximately 25–30 cm. Every year a new peduncle is formed on the orchid, while the old ones continue to grow and branch. Accordingly, flowering gradually becomes more and more abundant. Up to 10 buds are formed on each branch, but they bloom in turn. The orchid blooms mainly in summer. The color of the petals varies from pale yellow to golden orange. The pattern is dull red or brownish stripes.
• Phalaenopsis Philadelphia (Philadelphia). A very popular breeding hybrid, bred on the basis of Schiller and Stuart's phalaenopsis. Flowers 4-6 cm in diameter are painted in various shades of pink and purple. Valued for unpretentiousness and cascading flowering.
• Phalaenopsis hieroglyphic (Hieroglyphica). Another common hybrid The height of the leaves and peduncle is 30–35 cm. The flowers seem to be made of wax, with a pleasant aroma. There are 3-6 of them on each peduncle. The petals are snow-white, covered with a pattern in the form of pink and burgundy specks and strokes.
• Phalaenopsis Royal blue (Royal Blue). Forms two flower stalks at the same time. The petals are sky blue, the "lip" is dark blue. The height of the peduncle is about 60 cm, the diameter of the flower is 8–10 cm. The duration of flowering depends on how regularly top dressing was applied.
• Phalaenopsis Black butterfly (Black Butterfly). selective hybrid. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm in diameter. The petals are very dark purple with a thin white border around the edge. "Lip" white-yellow-lilac.
• Phalaenopsis Golden Beauty. On the plant, 2–3 peduncles are formed simultaneously, each with 15 flowers or more. Petals pale yellow, with a white spot at the base. "Lip" pink, crimson or scarlet.
• Phalaenopsis Mini Mark Maria Teresa (Maria Teresa). It is considered the best variety in the Mini-Mark hybrid series. The length of the leaf is no more than 15 cm. The flowers are medium-sized, 3-4 cm in diameter. The petals are snow-white, strewn with small specks of different shades of yellow, orange and pink. "Lip" terracotta. Flowering lasts 3-4 months.
• Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan (Amsterdam Jordan). Quite a rare hybrid. It was bred in the 19th century, but still has not lost popularity. The height of the orchid is about 50 cm. The petals are raspberry or crimson, covered with burgundy spots with a white border. "Lip" dark cherry shade.
• Phalaenopsis Harlequin (Harlequin). One of the so-called Novelty Phalaenopsis, a hybrid native to Taiwan. They are characterized by a compact rosette of leaves, the presence of numerous peduncles and the correct shape of a flower that looks like a star. In this hybrid, lemon-yellow petals are covered with rounded burgundy spots. In the light, they shine glossy, as if lacquered.

Varieties of phalaenopsis grown at home, pictured

Phalaenopsis horse, if favorable conditions are created for it, blooms twice a year Phalaenopsis deer-horned owes its name to the unusual shape of the peduncle Phalaenopsis adorable - one of the most popular varieties among gardeners Phalaenopsis Stewart can be identified by the variegated leaves Phalaenopsis Schiller is widely used by breeders to breed new varieties of orchids Flowering in Phalaenopsis Luddemann almost continuous Phalaenopsis Sander - one of the rarest varieties of this orchid Phalaenopsis pink - a miniature orchid created by nature itself Phalaenopsis Parish stands out for its unusual "lip" shape - one of the most common breeding hybrids. The pattern on the petals of hieroglyphic phalaenopsis really resembles letters in an unknown language. orchids of this shade, you need to be very careful - often their petals turn out to be simply painted
Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly petals of a very dark shade Phalaenopsis Golden beauty stands out for its abundance of flowering Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Theresa - one of the most successful miniature hybrids Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan was bred more than a hundred years ago, but is still popular with flower growers Phalaenopsis Harlequin petals are glossy, like as if varnished

Optimal growing conditions

The humid subtropical climate familiar to orchids is radically different from the conditions of modern apartments. Nevertheless, they successfully adapted to them. When caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, nothing supernatural is required from the grower.

Table: what conditions do phalaenopsis need

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Window sill facing east, southeast, west. It should be taken into account that the plant really does not like cold drafts, but needs a regular influx of fresh air.
Lighting	Phalaenopsis should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Light partial shade is best. Selected hybrids can exist even under completely artificial lighting. In winter, additional lighting is desirable with the help of conventional fluorescent or special phytolamps. The optimal length of daylight hours is 12–14 hours.
Temperature	Throughout the year, the optimal value is 23–25ºС. The difference between day and night temperatures is no more than 5–7ºС. The critical minimum for a plant is 10–12ºС. Above 35ºС is also undesirable.
Air humidity	Permissible value - 40–50%, optimal - 60–70%. However, good ventilation is essential. If the indicator drops to 30% or lower, the air next to the plants is sprayed daily or the humidity is raised in other ways. Such a procedure is also useful in winter - heating batteries dry the air a lot. The only thing that can not be done in any case is to pour water directly into the pot tray.

It is undesirable to place phalaenopsis on the south window, if there is simply no other place, the plants must be shaded, protecting from direct sunlight

Phalaenopsis tend to reach for the sun, so every 15-20 days the pot is rotated 180º. The exception is the period before flowering. While the buds are forming, the peduncle is carefully tied to a support in the form of a peg. Their pedicels "harden" after about two weeks, after which they will no longer be able to change position.

Material on growing Bauhinia, whose flowers are shaped like orchids, will also be useful:

Embarkation and transfer procedure

Phalaenopsis, like any other orchid, will grow and bloom only in a suitable substrate, which bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word. Therefore, a plant bought in a store needs to be transplanted as soon as possible. You can purchase a special soil mixture for orchids or make it yourself from small pieces of charcoal, dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, pine bark, dried fern roots. All ingredients are taken in approximately equal proportions.

Soil for orchids is not at all like soil in the usual sense of the word.

The pot is chosen transparent - it is easier to control the condition of the roots. In addition, they are involved in photosynthesis in orchids. At the bottom, a drainage layer with a thickness of at least 2–3 cm made of expanded clay or foam chips is required. It is desirable that the container has "legs" - in this case, the substrate does not come into contact with the water in the pan.

A transparent pot allows you to control the condition of the roots and substrate, adjust the frequency of watering

The soil becomes unusable quickly enough, it is salted and caked. Therefore, phalaenopsis are transplanted annually. Any time is suitable for the procedure, with the exception of the flowering period. To remove an orchid from a pot, it is soaked in warm water for several hours. You can replace it with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent fungal diseases.

The roots are cleaned of pieces of bark. Dried and dead areas are cut off, the sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated charcoal, cinnamon. Then it is desirable to dry them for 6-8 hours. Phalaenopsis is transferred to a new pot, the substrate is covered without compacting it. In this case, the plant should be stable in the pot. Soil should be filled approximately 3/4 of the volume of the container. If aerial roots stick out, this is normal.

There is nothing complicated in transplanting an orchid, even a novice florist can handle the procedure

During the first week, the transplanted orchid is especially carefully protected from direct sunlight. It is watered for the first time only after 5–7 days, top dressing is applied no earlier than a month later.

It is also practiced to grow phalaenopsis (especially miniature ones) on pieces of bark, snags, pressed coconut fiber, imitating their natural habitat. Such compositions look very impressive. Orchid roots are wrapped in a layer of sphagnum moss and securely attached to the support with pieces of wire. Water such plants by spraying sphagnum moss.

Phalaenopsis in compositions that mimic the natural habitat of an orchid look very impressive

Video: how to transplant an orchid

Important nuances of plant care at home

Phalaenopsis is one of the most unpretentious orchids. Even a novice grower can take care of her. The plant does not have a pronounced dormant period, therefore, during the year, watering and fertilizing are carried out in almost the same mode.

Water for irrigation is used only soft and settled, at room temperature. The frequency is adjusted based on the weather outside. In any case, you need to let the substrate dry completely. This can be determined by the fact that condensation ceases to form on the walls of the pot.

If in doubt, it is better to wait a few more days. Phalaenopsis will endure this quite easily. But frequent and abundant watering of the plant is categorically contraindicated. Under normal conditions, once every 3-4 days is enough.

As a general rule, the colder it is outside, the less light and the finer the fraction of the substrate, the less often orchids are watered. Watering at night is highly discouraged.

Water orchids by immersion. The pot with the plant is lowered into a container of water so that it completely covers the soil. As soon as the bubbles stop coming out, the orchid is removed from the container and dried well.

Phalaenopsis is watered by immersion methods, or at least so that drops of water do not fall into the axils of the leaves

Once every 2-3 months it is useful to wash the substrate, getting rid of excess salts. The pot is kept under running water for 5-10 minutes.

Top dressing is applied every 10-12 days. Fertilizers choose those that are specifically designed for orchids. Before this, the plant must be watered. Foliar top dressing is also practiced, but in this case it is necessary to ensure that drops of the solution do not fall into the axils of the leaves, on flowers and buds. At the same time, the concentration of the agent is halved compared to that recommended by the manufacturer.

For feeding phalaenopsis choose special means for orchids

The fact that the phalaenopsis lacks nutrients is evidenced by the “torn” or “corrugated” edges of the petals.

Phalaenopsis bloom

Phalaenopsis flowers can appear at any time. Particular attention should be paid to temperature - the hotter the room, the faster the blooming buds dry and fall. Ethylene, which is released by ripe fruits, especially apples and bananas, has a similar effect.

To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to reduce watering to the required minimum for 2-3 weeks and lower the temperature of the content to 16-18ºС. A difference between day and night temperatures of at least 5ºС is required. Practice shows that the "summer" peduncles are shorter than the "winter", and the buds on them are more crowded, almost without intervals.

In order for a peduncle to form on a phalaenopsis, a small temperature difference is required during the day

After the end of flowering, if the peduncle is not completely dry, cut off only that part of it that has changed its shade and dried up, smearing the cut with greenery. From the buds remaining on it, lateral "shoots" will form, and buds on them. Such a procedure is undesirable only for young and miniature phalaenopsis, prolonged flowering greatly weakens them.

Phalaenopsis flowering - a well-deserved reward for a florist

Typical florist mistakes

Often, the florist himself is to blame for the deterioration in the appearance of the Phalaenopsis orchid. It is necessary to correct individual errors in care in time, and the state of the plant will return to normal.

Table: how errors appear in caring for an orchid

What does the plant look like	What is the reason
No flowering	Excess or deficiency of nutrients
Withering, drying buds	Changes in temperature, other sudden changes in conditions of detention, cold drafts
rotting roots	Low room temperature combined with abundant watering
Sluggish, shriveled leaves, sometimes with small sunken spots	Damage to the root system or too high a content temperature
dark green leaves	Lack of light
Longitudinal cracks in leaves	Mechanical damage. Or a whole range of factors - abundant watering, heat and low humidity, excessive feeding. Also, the cause may be a sharp drop in temperature immediately after watering.
Watery blisters on leaves	Too much watering
Dark spots with a yellowish border on the leaves	Sun burns. Especially often they appear if drops of water fall on the leaves during watering.
Yellowing or browning leaves	Stagnation of water in the axils of the leaves, especially in combination with low temperature and light deficiency

Yellowing leaves indicate improper watering, combined with less than ideal orchid conditions.

Diseases, pests and their control

Phalaenopsis rarely suffers from diseases and pests with proper care. Nevertheless, not a single flower grower is immune from this. Therefore, do not forget about preventive measures:

• regular ventilation of the room;
• free, without crowding placement of flower pots on the windowsill;
• at least a two-week "quarantine" for newly acquired copies;
• the use of only sharply sharpened tools for any work with the plant, the treatment of all “wounds”;
• immediate removal from the windowsill of specimens with suspicious symptoms.

Table: diseases and pests typical for phalaenopsis

Disease or pest	Symptoms	Control and prevention measures
spider mite	A thin translucent "web" braiding parts of the plant, fading and discoloring leaves	Prevention: maintaining high air humidity, weekly irradiation of plants with a quartz lamp, spraying with infusion of onion or garlic gruel, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Fight: use of acaricides (Neoron, Sunmite, Apollo, Vertimek). For each subsequent treatment, it is recommended to take a new drug, the pest quickly develops immunity
Aphid	Small insects sticking to the underside of leaves, flower stalks and buds. Affected tissues are covered with small beige dots, the plant dries	Prevention: regular shower for plants, spraying with any infusions with a pungent odor. As raw materials, you can use the arrows of onions, garlic, lemon peel, tomato tops, dry tobacco leaves and so on. Fight: apply a foam of household or green potassium soap to the plant, wash in the shower. If there are few aphids, you can use the same infusions, treating the flower 3-4 times a day. If there is no effect, Iskra-Bio, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm are used.
Shchitovka	Flat "growths" of a gray-brown color, gradually increasing in volume, the tissues around them, acquiring a reddish-yellow tint	Prevention: keeping the plant clean, regularly airing the room. Fight: remove visible scale insects (for this you need to lubricate their shells with kerosene, turpentine, machine oil and wait 2-3 hours), treat the plant with Fufanon, Phosbecid, Aktara
thrips	Small black "sticks" on the leaves, blurry yellowish spots on the front side and thin silver strokes on the wrong side	Prevention: spraying the plant with laundry soap foam, the same infusions that are recommended for fighting aphids. Fight: the use of drugs Mospilan, Spintor
Anthracnose	Small brownish spots on the leaves, gradually darkening and tightening with a layer of pinkish-yellow bloom	Prevention: periodic replacement of water for irrigation with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate; adding sifted wood ash or crushed chalk to the substrate. Fight: removal of all affected tissues, disinfection of “wounds” (wash with 1% copper sulphate, sprinkle with activated carbon powder, cover with brilliant green), reduce watering to the required minimum, use fungicides (Ridomil-Gold, Bayleton, Horus)
powdery mildew	Powdery whitish coating, similar to spilled flour. Gradually it darkens and "compacts"	Prevention: regular shower for the plant, spraying the soil with a solution of soda ash or mustard powder. Fight: washing the leaves with soapy foam, treating the flower with a solution of colloidal sulfur. If there is no effect - spraying with Immunocytophyte, Topsin-M, Fitosporin
Brown bacterial rot	"Wet" translucent brownish spots on the leaves, gradually increasing in size and merging with each other	Prevention: competent care of the plant, especially proper watering, monthly spraying of the substrate with 1% copper sulphate. Fight: for resuscitation, the plants carry out the removal of all affected tissues, the disinfection of “wounds”, the reduction of watering to the required minimum, the treatment of the flower and soil with any fungicide. Then the plant is placed in quarantine for 10-12 days. In case of relapse, it remains only to throw it away
root rot	Blackening roots that are slimy to the touch, browning leaves, mildew on the substrate	Prevention: proper watering, periodic water replacement with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, adding Trichodermin, Gliocladin granules to the soil, monthly spraying with 0.2% Fundazol. Fight (only possible if the disease is noticed at an early stage): transplanting the plant into a new pot using a sterilized substrate. The roots need to be cut, removing all infected tissues, treat the "wounds", then soak them in a fungicide solution for 3-4 hours. Dry well before planting
Fusarium	Yellowing leaves that have lost their tone, gradually twisting into tubules and acquiring a pinkish tint	Prevention: creating optimal or close conditions for the plant, monthly treatment with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Control: the same measures apply as for the control of brown bacterial rot

External manifestations of symptoms of phalaenopsis damage by diseases and pests: photo

The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special preparations are used to combat it - acaricides Aphids are one of the most "omnivorous" pests of indoor plants, they also do not disdain folk remedies in the fight against scale insects - the pest is reliably protected by a strong shell Small black "sticks" on the leaves are nothing more than thrips themselves The development of anthracnose is promoted by stale air in indoors and high humidity Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless plaque that is easy to wipe off from a leaf, but in fact it is a dangerous disease. the disease is noticed at an early stage of development. Orchids, which have created optimal or close conditions, suffer from fusarium quite rarely

Reproduction methods

At home, phalaenopsis reproduces vegetatively. - a very complex and time-consuming procedure, which also requires absolute sterility and the use of special nutritional formulations. It is also impossible to guarantee compliance with varietal characteristics. The optimal time for breeding is the end of winter and spring.

Reproduction by "offspring"

"Babies" of phalaenopsis are formed at a slightly lower temperature of maintenance (20-21ºС). Under normal conditions, the plant is likely to produce a flower spike. Most often they are formed at the base of the stem or from "sleeping" buds on the peduncle. The latter can be treated with cytokinin paste.

"Babies" in phalaenopsis are formed mainly on the peduncle

The “offspring” are left on the orchid until the leaves on them grow up to 2–3 cm in length, and the roots grow up to 5–6 cm. . Until they begin to grow, it is advisable to cover the container with a plastic bag or a cut plastic bottle.

Cytokinin paste - a drug that stimulates the flowering and reproduction of orchids

Video: rooting "babies" of phalaenopsis

Reproduction by peduncles

The peduncle remaining green after flowering 1.5–2 months after all the buds have fallen off is cut off at the base and divided into 4–5 parts no more than 20 cm long. Each of them should have a growth bud. Cuts are made at an angle of 40-45º.

On each part of the peduncle there must be a growth bud

Then they are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, crushed chalk. "Shanks" are horizontally placed in a container filled with fine expanded clay or sand, covered with wet sphagnum moss on top. The container is covered with a plastic bag or a glass cap. In order for the growth buds to “wake up”, a temperature of at least 25–27ºС, daylight hours lasting 14–16 hours and lower heating are required. The "greenhouse" is ventilated daily, getting rid of the accumulated condensate, the substrate is maintained in a moderately humid state.

The "greenhouse" with cuttings must be regularly ventilated, otherwise the development of rot is very likely

Video: propagation of phalaenopsis by cuttings

plant division

The method is suitable only for absolutely healthy, powerful and developed plants. In the outlet they have at least 6-8 leaves. To get a new orchid, the top is cut off from the old one. It must have aerial roots. Places of cuts are sprinkled with any powdered biostimulant, disinfected. The top is transplanted into a separate container. Flowering from it can be expected in 2-3 years.

After dividing, the orchid “comes to its senses” for a rather long time

If the title of “Miss Popularity” was played among the orchids, a beauty named Phalaenopsis would certainly win it. It is she who most often decorates houses. The reason is obvious: this plant combines sophisticated beauty and unpretentiousness, delighting with abundant and long flowering in exchange for simple care.

Brief information and photo

Phalaenopsis orchid is an ancient plant. She is already 130 million years old. The birthplace of the flower is considered to be Oceania. According to local legend, phalaenopsis are fragments of a rainbow that fell from the sky to the ground, where they were caught by trees.

But the name of the flower - Phalaenopsis came to us from the Greek language and is translated as "the appearance of a butterfly." The Hellenes gave this plant another name - Aphodite's slipper. His flower really resembles a small shoe. Well, who should wear such exquisite and sophisticated shoes, no matter how the goddess of love and beauty.

Phalaenopsis do well on our windowsills

Phalaenopsis has been known since ancient times in the east. In China and Japan, these orchids were also valued for their medicinal properties. From them received a strong anesthetic medicine. However, phalaenopsis drugs were used to treat several dozen diseases, from rheumatism to infertility. And as scientists of the 21st century have proven, they did it not in vain. Phalaenopsis root contains a substance that can activate the production of the "longevity gene" - a cytokine. Thanks to him, orchid flowers can not fade for up to eight months.

plant care

Substrate selection

In nature, phalaenopsis grow on trees. But at home this is not possible. However, you should choose a substrate for planting that resembles the plant's natural environment.

You can make it yourself from pine bark, charcoal, perlite and sphagnum moss. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made in a specialized store. The substrate is selected based on the humidity of the air in the room where phalaenopsis grows. The higher it is, the less moss is required. You can adjust its amount yourself by sorting and removing components with your hands before planting a flower. For rooms with extremely dry air, make up a substrate containing 30% moss.

It is recommended to put a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, which will absorb excess moisture and prevent root rot. Expanded clay, which is sold in flower shops, is suitable for these purposes. However, some flower growers are sure that it will contain harmful substances and can harm plants. It is more useful to use river sand or pebbles, previously washed and heat-treated ...

Pot selection

When choosing a pot for a Phalaenopsis orchid, remember that the roots of this plant are not buried in the ground in nature. They are used to freedom, air and light. Therefore, hiding them in dark pots that do not let in a single ray of the sun is bad. The plant will not die, but it will feel worse.

Phalaenopsis do best in transparent pots with large drainage holes.

To provide the roots of the plant with air access, large-diameter drainage holes are made in the pots. Sometimes not only at the bottom, but also on the walls of the vessel. However, in this case, you need to carefully monitor watering: in "leaky" pots, the substrate will dry out much faster.

If the pot that exposes the roots does not seem aesthetically pleasing, put it in an opaque pot so that there is a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm between the walls of the two containers. Then a small amount of light will still flow to the roots, and the photosynthesis process will not be disturbed.

It is important to choose the right size of the pot. In too spacious, the roots of the phalaenopsis will begin to develop strongly to the detriment of the growth of leaves and flowers. This plant generally has this principle: until the pot is completely clogged with roots, do not start flowering. Therefore, it is better to plant the plant in such a way that it creates the feeling that the capacity is “a little too small” for it. In this case, it is unacceptable for the roots to grow through the drainage hole. This is an indication that the plant is time to repot.

Watering

When watering phalaenopsis, the main thing is not to overdo it: due to excess moisture, the roots will rot and the plant will die. Water the orchid only when the substrate is completely dry. It is not difficult to determine this: fold the top layer of pine sawdust and determine the condition of the soil at a depth with your finger. If it is wet, it is better to postpone watering.

However, it is also not recommended to delay the period of "dryness", otherwise the tips of the leaves of the plant will dry out.

Phalaenopsis is best watered by immersion. That is, put the flower in a large container of water. As soon as the top layer of the substrate is moistened, the plant is taken out.

For watering it is better to use soft water. Ideally, in summer - rain, and in winter - melt. However, you can get by with ordinary tap water, which is still better to boil or filter.

Important! If moisture has got on the leaves of the plant, and even more so in the sinuses, it should be immediately removed with a soft cloth or napkin. Otherwise, the orchid may rot.

Required air humidity

Phalaenopsis, like any other natives of the subtropics, love high humidity. If it is insufficient, the plant will shed flowers, and its leaves will lose their elasticity. You can determine if an orchid has enough moisture in the air by the state of its aerial roots. If soon after watering they become grayish and "sluggish", take action!

There are several ways to increase indoor humidity. Place water containers next to the flower or place wet towels on the battery. Phalaenopsis will also respond well to spraying. Spray water carefully, from a distance, and be careful not to collect drops on the plant itself.

Temperature regime

The optimum temperature for phalaenopsis is 15-25 degrees Celsius. At first glance, maintaining it is not so difficult, usually this is exactly what reigns in homes. But when choosing a place for a flower, pay attention to the presence of nearby heating devices, batteries. They can give an additional 1-2 degrees of heat. This plant will not be destroyed, but it will not bloom so willingly.

Phalaenopsis suffers hypothermia much more painfully. At temperatures below 12 degrees, he has no chance of surviving. Therefore, if the plant is on the windowsill, make sure that it does not blow from the window.

The flower will begin to show signs of dissatisfaction with the "weather in the house" if the air temperature drops below 15 degrees. In this case, Phalaenopsis can shed its peduncle or buds, its leaves will lose their elasticity, and the root system may also die.

Phalaenopsis will be very grateful if you can create a difference between day and night temperatures for him. Ideally, at night it should be 5 degrees colder. Although the plant can be content with smaller differences.

Lighting

Phalaenopsis loves good lighting, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. They cause burns on the stem and leaves. They look like dark spots and signal that the plant needs to urgently begin to shade. For example, it is easy to cover a window with a curtain.

Best of all, these orchids feel on the east or southeast windows.

The optimal daylight hours for phalaenopsis are 12 hours, and all year round. Therefore, with the onset of autumn, many orchid lovers use additional devices - fluorescent lamps with a white glow. Otherwise, the flower may fall into hibernation, that is, it simply stops growing and blooming.

Important! Do not often rearrange phalaenopsis from place to place. For this plant, “moving” is a big stress. It may stop growing and bloom.

Phalaenopsis leaves determine the quality of care

Whether the phalaenopsis is satisfied with its care is determined by the leaves.

1. If the leaves turn pale, spots and plaque appear on them, then the plant has too much light.
2. If the leaves darken and stretch, then the orchid has little light.
3. If the leaves lose their brightness, then the plant is “starving”, you need to apply fertilizer.
4. If the tips of the leaves turn black, then the flower is freezing or receiving too much liquid.
5. If the leaves wither, it means that there is not enough water for him or there are pests in the pot.

Transfer

Phalaenopsis are transplanted every two years. The best time is right after flowering. This procedure is not complicated and consists of several stages:

1. Take the plant out of the pot. To make this easy, carefully knead the container with your hands. This will reduce the risk of damage to the roots. You can carefully cut the pot with a knife.
2. Unravel the roots and carefully clean the old substrate. This is not easy to do: in a healthy plant, they are thick and strongly intertwined. At the same time, evaluate the condition of the roots. Remove areas that begin to dry out or rot. This should be done with a sharp knife or blade, pre-treated with an alcohol solution. Treat the cut sites with activated charcoal or an alcohol-free antiseptic.
3. Remove old leaves and flower stalks. Disinfect cuts.
4. Dry the plant, removing excess moisture with a soft cloth, and leave for at least two hours.
5. Place drainage at the bottom of the selected pot, place the flower exactly in the middle and carefully fill it with substrate. It is not necessary to bury the plant deep, the upper roots are only lightly sprinkled with bark.

Reproduction methods

peduncle

The best time is the beginning of spring. If during this period the phalaenopsis released a new peduncle, then, without waiting for the buds to appear, cut the shoot to the first bud. Then place the plant in a well-lit window. The orchid may react to the pruning of the peduncle with the appearance of a brown coating. be afraid! After a week or two, it will disappear on its own. And three months later, a new plant will appear on the cut peduncle.

cuttings

To do this, carefully remove the orchid from the pot, unravel the roots and, with a sharp disinfected blade, carefully divide the plant between the tubers. Then sprinkle the slices with crushed charcoal and let dry for several hours, then plant them in pots.

This video shows how best to propagate phalaenopsis by cuttings:

babes

They appear on adult healthy plants between peduncles. Separate only those shoots on which their own aerial roots have already formed. They can be immediately planted in a separate pot. It happens that Phalaenopsis shoots begin to bloom while still remaining on the mother plant. In this case, wait until the end of flowering and only after that send the young plant to its own "house".

How to get an orchid baby is shown in this video:

Species diversity

The Phalaenopsis orchid genus has more than 70 species. They differ in size and color of flowers and leaves. The conditions for keeping all species are the same.

Phalaenopsis pleasant (Phalaenopsis amabilis)

In size, this type of phalaenopsis is average. Its dark green leaves reach 50 cm in length, the diameter of the flowers is 10 cm. It can bloom twice a year, invariably white flowers with a yellow or purple lip. At the same time, 15 to 100 flowers bloom on the peduncle. They open sequentially and stay on the plant for several months.

Phalaenopsis Schiller (Phalaenopsis chilleriana)

This view is similar to the previous one. The main difference is the color of the leaves: they are reddish below, and gray with dark green spots above. There are legends about the flowering of Schiller's phalaenopsis. And not from scratch: he is really capable of blooming flowers several times a year, releasing several peduncles at the same time, up to 150 buds can fit on a flower at the same time.

Stuart Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis Stuartiana)

It differs from other species in the peduncle, which can branch in it, as well as in the bizarre color of the flowers. Their petals are white, with small spots at the base, and the lip is “smart”, golden yellow with bright purple spots. Phalaenopsis Stuart prefers to bloom in autumn and spring.

Phalaenopsis Luddemann (Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana)

This species is compact in size. Light green leaves grow no more than 25 cm long. The flowers are also medium-sized, up to 7 cm in diameter. They are painted in various shades of pink and purple. There are usually no more than 7 of them on the peduncle. But an adult healthy phalaenopsis Luddemann can bloom almost all year round. Its buds exude a delicate aroma.

Phalaenopsis giant (Phalaenopsis gigantea)

This species is not in vain got its name. The dimensions are really impressive: the leaves can grow up to 1 meter in length. Peduncle - up to 40 cm. It can accommodate up to 10 buds. On an adult healthy plant, several flower stalks usually appear at once, so that up to a hundred flowers can bloom on the plant at the same time.

That's all with the views. We turn to the flowering of the plant.

Bloom

Flowers are the main advantage of an orchid. Phalaenopsis is able to bloom often, abundantly and very beautifully.

The long-awaited appearance of the peduncle

The fact that the phalaenopsis is ready for flowering is indicated by the peduncle that appeared between the axils of the leaves. The rate of its growth depends on the lighting: the more light, the faster it will form. The plant does not require additional care during this period, leave the temperature and watering the same.

Orchid- a house plant, distinguished by its beautiful flowers, which have a variety of shapes and colors. Every day, orchids are winning more and more hearts of indoor plant lovers. And this is not surprising, because scientists work every day to create varieties that will be most suitable for growing not in specially equipped greenhouses with an artificially created tropical climate, but on the windowsill in any house, apartment or office. And now such new unpretentious species already exist.

Today, orchids intended for indoor cultivation are sold in stores and flower markets.

General information about orchids.

There are many myths and legends about the origin of the first orchid. Some of them say that the appearance of this magnificent plant is connected with the gods, for example, that the orchid grew in the place where the ancient Greek goddess Aphrodite lost her shoe, others "claim" that this plant appeared on the site of fragments from a broken rainbow.

Scientists have found the first orchid fossils that date back over 130 million years old. The orchid received its first real distribution three to four thousand years ago in Japan and China as a medicinal plant. At that time, there were few types of orchids, and it was very difficult to grow them in houses or apartments, since special tropical conditions had to be created for them, otherwise the plants died.

About 200 years ago, orchids were first brought to Europe, and with the help of the painstaking work of many botanists, new species of these plants began to appear. Now there are more than 30,000 species of orchids, many of which are perfectly adapted for home conditions. But this does not mean that their cultivation does not require any additional knowledge and features when caring for them.

To make the orchid feel great and delight you with its beautiful flowers, follow the simple rules for caring for it.

Varieties of Phalaenopsis orchids.

Due to the huge variety of orchids, scientists have classified them into species that differ from each other in flowers (size, shape and color), leaves (shape and size), frequency and period of flowering, as well as the absence or presence of smell. There are so many of these plants that it is difficult to understand them not only for a beginner, but also for experienced flower growers.

All orchids are divided into two types, such as monopodial and sympodial.

Orchids monopodial have only one shoot with a growing point at the top. Peduncles, from which beautiful flowers later appear, grow in the axils of the leaves, and nutrients and vital water accumulate in the leaves of plants.

Orchids sympodial have a large number of horizontal shoots connected by a rhizome. The sprouts of these plants turn into so-called pseudobulbs, which store nutrients and water.

All flower growers grow in 90-95% of cases Phalaenopsis orchids (lat. Phalaenopsis) related to the monopodial species. Based on this, you can be sure that in most cases when you are given an orchid or you buy it in a store, it is a phalaenopsis. Some of these plants are better adapted to indoor conditions, and some are worse. For example, if you see "mix" in the name on the label when buying phalaenopsis, then this means an excellent adaptation of the flower to growing at home.

The flowers of these orchids are monotonous (solid) or variegated (with veins, dots and spots), and their color range is simply huge: from pure white to purple. The sizes of phalaenopsis flowers are also different - from 2 cm to 15 cm in diameter. If your plant feels good, then it can bloom up to 40 flowers at the same time. The dark or light green leaves of these orchids can also be monotonous or dotted and/or spotted.

Stores sell standard (up to 1m in length) and miniature (about 30cm in length) phalaenopsis. These orchids are able to bloom up to 4 times a year and do not fall off for a long time (more than a month).

As I said earlier, I have two orchids and both phalaenopsis growing at home, so in my article I will focus on this particular variety.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home.

Despite the fact that phalaenopsis has delicate and at first glance fragile flowers, it is not at all difficult to care for them. Often you can even hear about it that this is a plant for beginners. And yet, if you want your flower to grow happily ever after, and also constantly please with its beautiful flowers, you need to create conditions for it that are as close as possible to natural ones. When growing orchids, the main thing is proper lighting, timely watering and top dressing.

Phalaenopsis orchid lighting.
Good lighting is one of the main conditions for this beautiful flower, but like most indoor plants, such as violets, for example, the orchid does not like direct scorching sunlight. The day length for this orchid should be at least 12-14 hours, so in winter it must be illuminated with a good fluorescent lamp or a special fitolamp for plants. Phalaenopsis feels great on eastern or western window sills. If you grow your orchid on a south window, then in order for the plant not to get sunburn during the hours of maximum solar activity, it must be artificially shaded. And when keeping phalaenopsis on the north window, she will have to turn on additional lighting.

Also, if the plant can be grown in the depths of the room, but only under the condition of a bright 12-14-hour daylight hours.

In order for the orchid to be even (not skewed), it can be periodically turned on the other side to the light. But when she begins to release buds, it is not recommended to disturb her, otherwise the flowering will end there.

Temperature conditions for Phalaenopsis orchids.
These flowers can tolerate temperatures from -10 0 C to +40 0 C, but do not think that this will be normal for your orchid. At low temperatures, air (wet) roots can get frostbite, and at high temperatures they can dry out, especially if the air in the room is dry. All this has a detrimental effect on phalaenopsis.

The correct summer temperature depends on the specific species, but the average is 20-25 0 C. In winter, it must be slightly lowered (to 16-18 0 C). If in winter the temperature in the room is above 25 0 C, then the phalaenopsis may not bloom.

When growing an orchid, it is also important to observe the difference between day and night temperatures of about 4-6 0 C. This stimulates the plant to bloom.

Watering phalaenopsis orchids.

Many people on the Internet are looking for answers to the questions "When to water an orchid?", "How often to water an orchid", "How many times a week to water an orchid?" etc. But such a statement of the question is not entirely correct. In fact, all orchids are different and watering for each should be individual. It cannot be said in the affirmative that, for example, phalaenopsis needs to be watered once a week or something like that.

Orchids in most cases are grown in transparent pots and it is from them that it is easy to determine when to water the plant. For example, if you see moisture or drops of water on the inside of the pot, then it is too early to water the orchid. This should be done when there is no perspiration in the pot.

For irrigation, water that has been settled for a day is not lower than room temperature, it is even better if it is 2-4 0 С higher, but not hotter than 26-27 0 С.

For watering orchids, the water must be soft. In our taps, it is usually hard, and in order to soften it, it is recommended to boil for 20-30 minutes. After that, cool the water to room temperature and you can water.

After a while after irrigation, salts accumulate in the soil, which must be periodically removed by washing the soil. This is done once a month and when the plant does not bloom. To flush the soil, place the orchid pot for 10-20 minutes under a small stream of warm water.

Watering orchids during flowering.
During flowering, moving the phalaenopsis pot is strongly discouraged, so during this period I water the orchid with a watering can with a narrow spout through the top of the pot. At the same time, excess moisture that flows onto the stand (saucer) through the drainage holes must be drained.

When the orchid does not bloom, I water it like this:
I take a transparent container slightly larger than the pot in which phalaenopsis grows. Then I put a pot with a plant in it and fill the ground around the entire perimeter with warm settled water so that its level is 1-2 cm below the top level of the earth. In this form, I leave the plant for about 1-3 minutes, but no longer than 10-15 minutes. As soon as the air bubbles stop "running", I take out the pot with the plant and put it on a tray (possibly in a saucer) for about 20-30 minutes, into which excess water flows. All excess moisture that has leaked out in the saucer must be poured out. After such watering, be sure to put the plant in the same place in which it grew before. This completes the watering.

With such irrigation, the soil, which mainly consists of the bark of trees, is well saturated with water, but it does not stagnate, since all excess water is drained from the pan (saucer).

Humidity for orchids. Spraying Phalaenopsis.
Orchids are very fond of spraying with warm settled water, so this procedure must be done regularly, especially if the room has dry air. Usually, phalaenopsis is moistened once a day in the morning, and on hot summer days, and especially if the orchid is located near the included heaters (for example, near the battery) in winter, the plant must be sprayed 2-3 times a day.

During the flowering of an orchid, it must be sprayed very carefully so that water does not fall on the flowers, as it causes ugly spots on the petals, and the flowers quickly fade.

An excellent solution for humidifying the air near the phalaenopsis is a pallet with wet expanded clay placed under a flower pot or several flat containers of water placed near it.

Phalaenopsis orchid fertilizer.
Botanists have developed special complex fertilizers for orchids. They can be purchased at any flower shop. The package must be marked "For orchids"!!! Other top dressings can burn the roots of the plant. To feed my phalaenopsis, I use a liquid complex fertilizer.

For excellent well-being, it is necessary to fertilize an orchid from March to October (active growth) about 2 times a month. During flowering, top dressing should be done a little weaker in concentration than usual and no more than 1 time per month.

Before fertilizing my orchids, I water them well, and only then do I fertilize at the concentration that is written on the package (maybe even a little weaker). This protects the roots of plants from possible burns.

Soil for phalaenopsis orchids.
I will not talk much about the soil. The only thing I can say for sure is that it should be loose, fertile and well breathable.

I myself have never made the soil, but, studying the composition of the one that I bought for my phalaenopsis, I can say that it consists of:

1. Pine bark (base), about 1.5-2cm in size;
2. Pieces of peat;
3. Dry moss.

Phalaenopsis orchid transplant.
Orchids do not require an annual transplant, but due to the destruction and subsidence of the soil, as well as the appearance of new aerial roots, it is advisable to do this at least once every 3-4 years. In the spring, all life processes are activated in the phalaenopsis, and if it is transplanted during this period, it will be easier to endure the stress that has arisen, but this is not recommended during flowering, otherwise the flowers will quickly fade.

For a transplant you will need:

• A transparent pot, the diameter of which is 1-2 cm larger than the previous one;
• Special soil for orchids, based on pine bark, 1.5-2 cm in diameter.

For transplanting, use only soil specially prepared for orchids from a flower shop.

So, let's start with the transplant.
First, I pour boiling water over the soil, consisting of pieces of bark, for 1 minute. In this case, possible pests will be destroyed, and the bark itself will swell a little and become soft. Then it is necessary to drain the water and allow the bark to cool, after which it will become dark in color and saturated with moisture.

Then water the orchid abundantly (the roots will soak from the walls of the pot and from the soil) and after a few minutes remove it from the pot along with the old soil. After that, gently shake off all the old bark (soil) from the roots and proceed to remove dried roots and peduncles, as well as yellowed leaves. I cut them with regular scissors or secateurs. Living green roots do not need to be touched.

If there are normal pieces of bark in the old soil, then they can also be used for planting in a new pot, and the small "dust" must be thrown away.

Once the plant is cleaned, you can start planting in a new pot of larger diameter, in which it is possible to completely bury the roots in the ground and in which the plant will not warp. To do this, put the orchid in a pot so that all the roots are inside it. Then slowly add new soil and compact it well, covering any empty spaces. I use a pencil or a wooden stick for this.

The transplant is over as soon as all the roots are covered with bark. Our soil was moist, so there is no need to water the plant anytime soon. Do this when the soil is dry.

Reproduction of the Phalaenopsis orchid.
At home, these plants are propagated by lateral shoots, that is, vegetatively. They can appear on the mother orchid on a peduncle or near a leaf rosette. After the shoot has one or more of its own roots, it can be transplanted into a separate pot. Transplantation of a young shoot is carried out in the same way as an adult plant.

Problems in growing phalaenopsis orchids.

If you properly care for the orchid, then it will have good immunity to diseases and pests. But even with excellent conditions of detention, no one is 100% immune from them.

Orchid leaves become flabby?
Most likely, this can occur if the root system is damaged or the temperature is incorrect.

Holes, black and dry spots, growths, bumps appeared on the leaves of the orchid?
In most cases, this is due to direct sunlight on the plant, which leads to burns.

Do longitudinal cracks appear along the entire length of orchid leaves?
This can be either mechanical damage or a sharp temperature drop during irrigation with cold water.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests.

Do orchid leaves dry or rot?
These can be pests of domestic plants - mites living in the center of the outlet. For treatment it is necessary to use insecticides.

A cobweb appeared on the underside of the orchid leaves, after which they turn yellow, rot and die?
This is direct evidence that the phalaenopsis was attacked by a spider mite. To combat it, you can use a soap solution or acaricidal preparations.

The orchid blooms very badly, and has stopped growing?
These are most likely nematodes that live on the underside of the leaf and feed on the vital juices of the phalaenopsis. To defeat them and save the plant, it is necessary to use the drug nematocide.

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Phalaenopsis orchid, home care for which is not difficult even for beginner gardeners, is an epiphytic plant from the rainforests of Australia and Southeast Asia. The flower owes its name to its resemblance to a butterfly, which was noted by the head of the German botanical garden, Karl Blum.

Certain features of its cultivation at home are associated with the natural habitat of the butterfly orchid:

• Pot and soil for Phalaenopsis orchids are required as a support.
• The presence of roots in the air and in good light, which promotes photosynthesis, is ensured by choosing the right location and light substrate;
• The presence of aerial roots requires the grower to constantly monitor the plant in order to exclude the possibility of their nutrition from pots with other indoor crops.
• The possibility of three flowering plants throughout the year due to the lack of a pronounced dormant phase.

Home care

To be the happy owner of a frequently flowering and healthy plant, you must adhere to certain rules for caring for an orchid that resembles a moth.

Location and lighting

The flower needs a lot of soft light, which the plant can get from the windows of the western and eastern directions. If the window faces south, then during the peak of solar activity, a slight shading is created with a loose curtain to prevent spots on the shoots, indicating burns. To keep the plant symmetrical and not tilt to one side, the orchid pot rotates around its own axis twice a month.

Important! During the budding period, the flower should not be disturbed.

What soil is suitable for phalaenopsis orchids?

The substrate for cultivating a flower can be purchased at a flower shop, both in finished form and in separate components, the main of which is moss.

When preparing the mixture yourself:

• Two days before planting the orchid, the pine bark is soaked in clean water to swell.
• A drainage layer of expanded clay or small pieces of foam is placed in the pot.
• Large fractional parts of the bark are located on top.
• The last layer is prepared from the bark of a fine fraction mixed with crushed moss.

Temperature

To ensure optimal conditions under which a beautiful flowering of the culture occurs, a temperature regime is created in the range of 18-25 ° C.

Important! For a short period, the orchid is able to tolerate high (up to 42°C) and low (up to 12°C) temperatures.

Watering the flower and air humidity

The frequency of moistening, between which the substrate must dry completely, is influenced by a number of factors:

• content temperature;
• composition of the substrate;
• phase of cultural development and time of year.

When the pot becomes light and there is no condensation on its walls, the flowerpot is half placed in water to saturate the substrate with moisture through the drainage holes. Boiled water is used for irrigation. In hot weather, to ensure the required level of humidity, which should not be too high, the container with the flower is placed on wet pebbles. To prevent rotting associated with stagnation of water in the leaf axils, and burns due to the evaporation of drops from the leaves, the orchid is not sprayed.

Important! Lower watering will avoid water getting on the shoots, which provokes the development of rot.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Additional nutrition of the orchid with liquid mineral fertilizers is carried out simultaneously with watering and only during the period of active vegetation - building green mass, budding, flowering.

Rules for care after flowering

After the flowering of a beautiful flower is over, the grower needs to carefully monitor the peduncle. With yellowing and wilting, the arrow is completely removed. If the peduncle remains green, then after resting, new flower buds will be laid on it. Therefore, the arrow is only shortened: the cut is made 1 cm above the developed kidney.

Transfer

Phalaenopsis orchids are transplanted every 2-3 years, during which the substrate loses the necessary qualities, and the branched root system is shown from the drainage holes.

The transplant technology is as follows:

• After flowering is completed, a new pot of larger diameter is prepared.
• A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the tank.
• By transshipment into a pot, an orchid is planted.
• The remaining voids are filled with new substrate.

How to care in autumn, winter?

With the advent of the cool season, the development of the flower stops. During such periods, top dressing is excluded from the above measures for caring for the plant. But often it is at this time that the phalaenopsis throws out the peduncle again, it all depends on the species and variety.

Protection of orchids from diseases and pests

Orchid diseases manifest themselves in violation of agrotechnical requirements for care.

Among the most common are:

• Fusarium- a disease that occurs due to an excess of moisture is not treatable. The affected plant is destroyed to prevent spread.
• Rotten- fungal diseases that are caused by overmoistening of the substrate are treated by spraying the culture twice with a fungicide with an interval of 10 days.
• Hives- the disease, which manifests itself in the form of large spots, is eliminated by ensuring the appropriate temperature regime and systematic ventilation.
• Botrytis- a disease that affects orchid flowers stops development when the humidity level normalizes and free air circulation is ensured.

Along with diseases, the culture can be oppressed by harmful insects, among which mealybugs, thrips, scale insects and spider mites are noted. To control pests, it is better to resort to treating the flower with an insecticidal preparation.

Propagation of phalaenopsis orchids at home

At home, phalaenopsis propagates by a vegetative technique - the separation of lateral shoots.

In order for children to form, you must do the following:

1. At the base of the faded peduncle, a dormant bud is determined.
2. At the edge of the scales covering the kidney, a semicircular incision is made with a sharp knife.
3. The scale is removed using tweezers.
4. The released kidney is treated with a growth regulator.
5. A month later, rosettes are formed, and after three months - air roots.

When there are already children, the breeding procedure is carried out 1-2 months after the orchid blooms as follows:

• The shoot, on which two leaves and aerial roots 5 cm long, are formed, is separated on the peduncle or at the base of the rosette of leaves.
• The shoot is dried during the day and planted in a fine-grained substrate.
• The planting container is covered with a glass cap to maintain the temperature within 22-25°C.

The lack of aesthetic beauty of the pot in which the flower was purchased is not a reason for a transplant. Moreover, if the purchased orchid is in bloom, then the procedure should not be carried out. Such manipulations, carried out at the wrong time, can cause irreparable harm to the plant.



Thus, subject to the simple requirements for the maintenance of phalaenopsis, the orchid will become an ornament to any interior, creating even more comfort and harmony in the atmosphere in the home.

phalaenopsis orchid- one of the most famous and brightest representatives of her family, who was very fond of our flower growers. Most orchids grow in the humid equatorial and tropical forests of Africa, Australia and the Philippine ridge, as well as in Southeast Asia. Of all its relatives, phalaenopsis is the easiest to care for, therefore it easily took root on our windowsills.

During the Great geographical discoveries, Europeans were happy to master not only new types of spices, delicacies and precious metals, but also flowers. Why are only Dutch tulips! Our homemade phalaenopsis orchid comes from the spicy Moluxy Islands, where it was first studied in the wild by the German naturalist Georg Rumph. But it owes its name, which in Latin means “butterfly”, to Karl Blum, who headed the work of the botanical garden in Leiden.

In the wild, most orchids are epiphytes - that is, they grow on trees, taking nutrients from the air through a developed system of aerial roots. Trees, stones, sod-podzolic soils consisting of large fractions are their favorite habitats. When buying phalaenopsis in a store, you probably noticed that the composition of the substrate in which this phalaenopsis orchid grows is very different visually from the usual humus soil on which most flowers grow.

So, an exotic beauty, although unpretentious, requires compliance with a few simple growing rules. If everything is in order with this, she will delight you with lush flowering more than once a year.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home

Like all tropical flowers, phalaenopsis has its own care requirements. Most of them are connected with the fact that for him it is necessary to try as much as possible to reproduce the natural conditions of growth - the conditions of a humid tropical jungle. The orchid has its own interesting features:

Part of the roots belongs to the wandering air type, therefore, homemade phalaenopsis, if not followed, can easily “crawl” into a neighboring pot.

Since phalaenopsis initially grow in a climate in which there is no pronounced cold period, they do not have a special need for an anabiosis phase or a dormant period. They bloom 2 times a year, subject to simple care standards, and some especially persistent flower growers get even 3 blooms from their pets.

Dense leaves are located in a basal rosette in 2 rows, flower stalks are long and curved. If the flower receives good nutrition, then the inflorescences are large, racemose, the leaves and petals are juicy. The color palette is simply amazing - there are just no colors:

• purple;
• light lilac;
• snow-white;
• orange-green;
• orange.

Often a flower is built on the principle of contrast: the lip is a long base, has one color, and its petals are another.

Lighting

Very often, the fiasco in the cultivation of phalaenopsis is associated precisely with the choice of the wrong lighting. This factor is extremely important for all flowering and deciduous plants, since the access of light provides the plant with the key process of photosynthesis, during which carbon dioxide is split into water and oxygen. To understand exactly what conditions phalaenopsis needs, you need to remember the conditions of its habitat. The tropical selva, forming a dense dome over low-growing plants, does not let a large amount of light down, but heat and evaporation create the necessary microclimate.

In the conditions of a home window sill, the plant will need a little more light, it is quite possible to place it on the south side, but still monitor the light intensity. If it is too bright, the plant will signal a change in leaf color. Ideally, they are a bright green juicy shade.

Darkening will indicate a lack of lighting, but the appearance of whitish spots, or redness, will indicate that the light is too bright. By the way, phalaenopsis belongs to the group of orchids that like to have a lot of light, but when placing a flower on a brightly lit window sill, do not forget to monitor the condition of the leaves. If something is wrong, the flower will signal this.

Particularly advanced flower growers help plants with lamps. In this case, it is better to use fluorescent lamps of cold white and warm white spectra. The former provide short blue wavelengths that stimulate photosynthesis and growth, while the latter provide short red wavelengths that create a microclimate during flowering. At the same time, you should not use incandescent lamps - they give too much red waves, this can cause burns.

IMPORTANT! A little life hack - as you grow, you should also raise the lamp up so that the leaves and inflorescences do not fall under too close exposure to heat waves.

Temperature

In the wild, Phalaenopsis orchids prefer to keep the temperature at 22 degrees, and the maximum temperature of the cold period does not fall below 7-10. The fact is that in the tropics the cold season is the period of rains, when the temperature drops by no more than 3-4 degrees. Phalaenopsis prefer more or less even temperature conditions and our seasonal jumps are unacceptable for them.

Phalaenopsis belong to the warm temperature group. The maximum allowable temperature range for them is from 25 - 28 degrees on a summer day and 15 - 18 on a winter night. Daily fluctuations should not exceed 3 - 6 degrees, therefore, if you turn off the heating at night in winter, it is better to leave the orchid in a place where heat exchange is not so intense and the temperature drops slowly. How long and intensively the orchid will bloom depends on how correctly you choose the temperature regime.

Air humidity

This factor is perhaps the most important for orchids, because in their homeland - in tropical forests, it can sometimes be from 80 to 100%. With a lack of moisture in the air, you can compensate for the lack of spraying, but it is important not to overdo it, otherwise the orchid can easily rot.

As we have already said, orchids are epiphytes, accustomed to do without a moist substrate, and the humidity of the air from which they take moisture is of great importance to them. But even in case the flow of moisture suddenly dries up, orchids have reliable defense mechanisms - for example, a waxy layer that covers the leaves and roots, protecting them from excessive evaporation, and the porosity of the roots, which take all the necessary amount of moisture from the air.

Phalaenopsis have a special daily regime - in case there is not enough moisture. The leaves have microscopic holes - stomata for absorbing carbon dioxide. During the day they are closed, which prevents the evaporation of moisture, but at night they open when evaporation is minimal.

For potted plants, it is enough to get moisture from the substrate. But for plants that are grown on blocks of bark or tied up, air humidity is very important. It can be increased by spraying or using electronic humidifiers, decorative fountains. Spraying should be carried out regularly, and preferably - not in the midday heat, but in the morning or evening, more intensively - if the orchid stands near a radiator, heater or central heating battery.

Watering

Among the owners of orchids there is no consensus on how to properly water. There are 3 main ways:

• Watering with a thin stream from above using the shower method;
• watering in a pot with constant immersion in water;
• brief immersion in water.

The first method is not only not effective enough, but also unsafe for the plant. When water is poured in a thin stream over the substrate, the latter does not have time to absorb moisture, which it could then give to the plant. It simply evaporates, and the rest flows into the saucer. It turns out that the roots are not saturated with moisture evenly - the upper ones dry out, and the lower ones, constantly being in water, rot, and the plant may die.

It is better to water the plant by immersion once a week. In pre-prepared and settled water at room temperature, it is possible with the addition of fertilizer for orchids, the pots are immersed for 10 - 15 minutes, until completely saturated. In the hot season, you can repeat the procedure several times a week.

The leaves of the plant serve as indicators of the correctness of watering. With an excess of moisture, swelling and decay appear on the leaves. It is impossible to cure them, you need to trim the damage to healthy tissue.

top dressing

Often flower growers mistakenly believe that the more intensively they feed orchids, the longer and more often they will bloom. However, fertilizing and fertilizing phalaenopsis is not always in favor of the plant:

• If the plant was just bought and brought home, it is not worth transplanting and feeding it. The substrate is nothing more than a fulcrum, and the supply of nutrients can be enough for more than 2 to 3 years.
• You can not feed the plant during the flowering period. From greenhouses to store shelves, orchids are supplied blooming, before that they are intensively fed in nurseries, and if you add top dressing at home, the inflorescences and buds will quickly fall off, because the plant will begin to “prepare” for the next phase of flowering.
• For newly transplanted, diseased or weakened plants, top dressing is also not suitable. They require professional treatment, and for this there are a number of other drugs.

What to feed? Orchids need nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus to grow properly. During the period of cultivation of the vegetative mass, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is needed; phosphorus and calcium are needed for the full laying of peduncles and budding.

It is especially important to initially give the plant a large amount of phosphorus, which is responsible for the processes of respiration, photosynthesis, growth and metabolism. If you do not ensure its stable inflow, it will be difficult to compensate for the shortage. It is phosphorus that provides lush flowering, and for a full-fledged nitrogen exchange, you need a lot of potassium.

Feeding is worth every 2 weeks, after soaking the roots. Immerse the phalaenopsis pot in water for 10 minutes, then add fertilizer and soak for 20 minutes.

What to do with phalaenopsis immediately after purchase

If you bought phalaenopsis in a specialized store, where it was looked after and prepared for sale properly, then no resuscitation will have to be carried out. But in most stores, unfortunately, they use temporary containers for flowers, in which they cannot grow for a long time. The flower will have to be transplanted if:

• The orchid does not stand alone in a pot due to a mismatch in size;
• there is too little substrate in the pot, and the orchid “dangles” in it;
• if the orchid's roots are damaged.

In any case, you should first try to put the flower in a heavy glass pot and do without a transplant, at least until the flowering period has passed.

The most common types

Despite the fact that phalaenopsis is often considered a separate plant species, under this designation a whole family of orchids has united, which are the least whimsical and suitable for growing them at home. This class has about 70 varieties that attract the grower with luxurious inflorescences and a wealth of colors. Today, on the shelves of flower shops, you can most often find varieties:

• Amabilis;
• Schiller;
• Stuart;
• Sander;
• Giant;
• Deer-horned;
• Hieroglyphic;
• Ambonian;
• Pink;
• Parish;
• Horse;
• Luddemann;
• Mini mark;
• Amsterdam.

In addition to those mentioned, variegated phalaenopsis and phalaenopsis with a special aroma, as well as intergeneric hybrids - blue, blue and pelorics, enjoy the love of buyers.

Bloom

It's no secret that we love orchids for the beauty they give us with their blooms. And if the purchased flower does not bloom for a long time, or gives too small and faded inflorescences, this is disappointing. Let's try to figure out why phalaenopsis does not bloom, and how to stimulate flowering. Phalaenopsis, whose life cycle is 7 - 10 years, blooms under normal conditions 1 - 2 times a year, and the flowering period is from 2 to 6 months. In any case, the orchid should bloom at least once a year.

Why phalaenopsis does not bloom

As mentioned above, the main condition for flowering is proper care. If the conditions of care are violated, flowering is disturbed. Phalaenopsis flower stalks disappear if:

• Phalaenopsis watering is wrong - the roots do not have time to dry out. For phalaenopsis, it is important to have a stable constant source of moisture, and not an excess of it.
• There is a violation of the temperature regime. For normal flowering, it is important for phalaenopsis to ensure a daily and seasonal temperature difference in the range of no more than 3 - 4 degrees.
• There is a re-fertilization. Due to incorrect dosage, useful substances often “drive” the plant into growth, but there is simply not enough strength for forcing flower stalks and budding.

How to make it bloom

• Do not create stress for the plant by rearranging - do not change its location;
• buy plants aged 1.5 - 3 years, they are ready to bloom; younger plants should gain sufficient vegetative mass;
• create conditions so that a sufficient amount of light hits the photosynthetic roots of the plant, if there is no natural source, buy a fluorescent lamp in the “cold white” or “warm blue” range;
• ensure temperature difference.

If you want to outwit a flower and force it to bloom again, create a stressful situation for it: move it to another place, stop watering, create a sharp temperature drop. The phalaenopsis will have a “population conservation” mechanism, and it will most likely re-bloom.

After flowering

After flowering, the peduncle should be cut off - it will take nutrients from the plant. Toward the end of flowering, the stalk will take on a waxy hue - usually this period can last from 1 to 6 months. After all the inflorescences fall off, the leg will begin to dry out and after that it can be safely cut off.

Transfer

Above, we have already considered cases when an orchid needs to be transplanted, and when not. If phalaenopsis transplant needed - it is important to do the procedure correctly so that the flower takes root and feels good “in a new place”.

• To easily separate the subtrates and roots from the pots, you need to hold it in a bath of warm water for several minutes. It is worth transplanting a plant only at rest, otherwise it may simply drop the inflorescences. For transplantation, it is worthwhile to prepare the substrate, plastic pots, activated charcoal, secateurs or a knife in advance.
• After softening, we take out the orchid from the pot, clean the roots of the remnants of the substrate, rinse, cut off the rotten or dry roots, put them on a napkin and let them dry for about 20 minutes.
• After drying, the cut off places of the roots should be lightly powdered with activated charcoal previously crushed in a mortar.
• We insert the roots vertically into the pot and slowly begin to fill the substrate. It is better not to use the old one - even if there are no visible signs that the substrate is damaged, anyway - it can contain bacteria and fungi organisms, mold.
• The pot should be lightly tapped on the walls so that the bark is immediately rammed and there are as few voids as possible between the particles of the substrate.
• After transplanting, the plant must be watered and placed in a warm and bright place. But never in direct sunlight.

reproduction

Orchids are divided into two main types - sympodial and monopodial. The first have several points of growth, the second - one. Depending on the type to which the plant belongs, you can choose the most convenient way to propagate orchids at home:

• The division of the bush (in sympodial species) after the end of flowering and the dormant phase;
• cuttings - in monopodial, in the spring;
• cut peduncle after flowering;
• child sockets;
• seeds.

Diseases and their treatment

Like all plants, phalaenopsis are also susceptible to a number of specific diseases that can be caused by pests, fungi and bacteria. Each of them requires special treatment with chemicals and care procedures. And for the correct selection of means of struggle, it is necessary to correctly “diagnose” the disease.

Fusarium

In 99% of cases with orchids, infectious fusarium is caused by specific fungi that reproduce by conidia. If you notice pink, white, reddish balls on the roots and base of plants, it's time to start countermeasures. The disease affects the roots, they begin to rot, and the plant dies. Fusarium occurs if:

• The substrate does not dry out periodically, and at high humidity, a low temperature is kept inside it;
• the substrate is oversalted;
• the substrate contains too much peat or foam.

To treat Fusarium, isolate the plant, cut off the affected areas and dry the roots and substrate thoroughly.

Hives

In conditions of high humidity and poor ventilation, orchid leaves are often affected by hives - these are yellow-brown spots up to 3 mm in diameter, which quickly cover the entire plant. It is impossible to save the affected areas, but you can prevent the spread of the disease if you equalize the conditions of detention.

Botrytis

Botrytis is a fungus that provokes the development of gray mold and spotting on the leaves. The fungus actively multiplies in damp and warm air, affects those weakened by poor care or plant transplantation. Botrytis affects not only leaves, but also flowers. Fungicide treatment is ineffective unless affected leaves and flowers are selected and trimmed.

Pests and control methods

Despite the exotic origin, orchids relished our pests. If you do not identify them in time, do not isolate the affected plant and do not start sanitizing it, the lesion can lead to the death of the orchid.

Slugs

The class of snails and slugs has over 75,000 species. Fortunately, only a few representatives of this group are capable of harming orchids. On phalaenopsis in conditions of high humidity, you can most often find:

• Reticulated and striped slugs;
• Opeas pumilum;
• Oxychilus draparnaud
• Rounded snail.

Their danger lies in the fact that slugs scrape real holes in the leaves and stems with their radula. The areas become thinner, the tissues in this place die off. You can fight them by hand-picking, replanting the plant, and of course - by treating them with chemicals.

spider mite

A dangerous pest for phalaenopsis is a spider mite. It feeds on the sap of the plant, but during the "bite" a specific substance, which is produced by the glands of the spider, enters the cell. It destroys the membranes, the leaf eventually becomes covered with silvery spots and dies.

The most effective way to prevent a spider is to periodically water it with a hot shower, and also treat it with a solution of Neem tree oil. In addition to the fact that the larvae die during processing, it also strengthens the immunity of the orchid.

thrips

Traces of this inconspicuous insect can be identified by the appearance of excrement - small black dots, and characteristic "strokes" - whitish stripes on the leaves, spreading in different directions. Thrips are illegible, they settle both on flowers and on leaves, but mainly on the back side. There are more than 7,000 species of thrips in the world, but they can be easily removed by treatment with systemic insecticides.

Shchitovki

The shield is easy to see, even if it lives on the back of the sheet. This insect has a strong brown shell, feeds on the sap of the plant, due to which it depletes the leaves and stems. It is quite difficult to get rid of scale insects, and often its young larvae are invisible in the substrate. Therefore, before you put a plant just bought in a store in the thick of your flower garden, it is better to quarantine it.

Mealybug

Getting rid of mealybugs on orchids is perhaps the hardest thing to do. This is possible only if the leaves and sinuses of the plant are treated with an enteric-contact insecticide. The mealybug lays larvae deep in rosettes of leaves, outwardly they resemble dirty cotton wool.

These insects feed on the juice of the plant, but during contact, their digestive enzymes get inside the plant and disrupt the metabolic processes inside it. The orchid weakens and, if left untreated, may die.

How to crop

Phalaenopsis often have to be cut - during transplantation, cuttings or removal of dried flower stalks. Since the vegetative body of the orchid is saturated with bearing vessels and quite juicy, it is important to know how the correct pruning of the Phalaenopsis orchid is carried out.

How to cut a peduncle

We have already mentioned above that trim the flower stalk of an orchid stands after flowering. It is important to wait until it dries completely, and the base turns yellow. Then you need to cut it off completely, only leave a small process 1.5–2 cm high near the outlet. last kidney.

How to cut roots

It is important to understand that hanging roots for an orchid are normal. In epiphytes, part of the roots necessarily protrude beyond the base of the plant, because they must take nutrients from the air. But if the roots rot or dry out, are affected by pests, and it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of orchid roots, certain rules must be observed:

• Trim the roots a few millimeters from living tissue;
• wipe the cut points with crushed activated carbon;
• when pruning, treat with fungicides, dry the roots and substrate.