How to unscrew the accurate rusty bolt or nut? How to unscrew the bolt or nut with torn edges? The nut is spinning what to do

How to unscrew the nut with torn edges, a rusted nut or accurately tight? Everyone came across such a problem who kept a wrench in his hands. The solution of such a task has several ways:

Chemical - we wat the thread and nut (brake fluid, acetic acid, iodine, splashing WD-shock) several times and we wait until the solution wins rust and oxides. But, I must recognize the method of the mutual and not very effective. You can not wait;

2. Thermal - heating the brass nut and sharply cool (for example, we water water). After that, about 90 percent, the nut is unscrewed. The method is effective, but not always possible (the nut may be where the fire or strong heating is categorically contraindicated);

3. Surgical - the body of the nut cut the grinder, drilling a drill, rub the chisel (if it turns out to get it), while it is a high probability to damage the hairpin or part, which is attached to this nut, and at the same time, or what else falls in the operation zone. The method is effective, but risky and not always possible;

4. Masokhistic - web knobs for metal (as a Count Monte Cristo) sawing a poor nut to victory over it or our patience. To help the great and mighty Russian, as well as idiomatic turns of other well-known dialects and adverbs. The method is reliable and sometimes the only possible in hard-to-reach places;

5. Fantastic - we will not consider;

6. Realistic - to use the special tool-adaptation by Gaikol, is also called a guycoresis or a gaicocol. Elegant solution for ripping nuts, while saving time and abnormative vocabulary, preserving studs and bolts. The way is not deprived of the shortcomings, there are places in which the developers and designers placed the nuts where the guykoreau does not work out, but the delights do not become less.

How does Gaikol work?

Like all ingenious, it is the most simple to use the principle of the chisel, allowing you to split nuts with minimal efforts, without damaging bolts and studs.

The device is attached to the nut, while it is clamped between the cutting edge of the chisel, when the nut is moving, not only splits, but also is inflicted. If the nut climbeds very much and one fault is not enough for its removal, we make the face of the face opposite.

How is Gaicoroz?

The housing, cast on the nut in the form of a ring, can be with a slot, cutting knife (chisel) movable or fixed. The knife drive can be mechanical or hydraulically.

Mechanical is much cheaper, but if you roll nuts not every day, then this is the optimal choice. During the network monitoring, there was such a set of hypo-sizes for three sizes: 9-12 mm turnkey 12 mm; 12-16 mm turnkey 14 mm; 16-22 mm turnkey 19 mm.

Most of the nuts are becoming one with the supplied bolt. They are so stuck in place that they are even difficult to disrupt. Rusty equipment can cause serious harm to any node. If they are not covered, they are at risk of rust and corrosion. There are some special conditions that increase rust propagation rate, such as the wet climate and too much exposure to moisture. Not all kinds of rust can be found immediately. They can harm equipment and even lead to its malfunction. Rust and corrosion can lead to failure of the entire component. Therefore, it is important to solve quickly before the damage will be caused.

Options for how to unscrew the rusted nut or bolt by car.

Why a rusty nut or bolt is hard to unscrew

If the components are exposed to wet weather or moisture, they quickly rust. One of the components, which is the highest degree, are the fasteners present in the automotive components. Moisture can lead to fasteners degradation, which makes devices on the verge of destruction. It is difficult to remove these stuck fasteners, especially if rust affects the metal head or thread. Rust makes it difficult to capture fasteners using a screwdriver or wrench.

What tool is better to use

Removing rusty mounting elements can be performed in several ways. These are the most commonly used and most effective.

Lubricant

If the node is stuck in place due to rust, then the ideal solution will be the use of WD-40 Penetrant Spray. If the rust has reached a thread, then there is no better way to weaken it than using the WD-40 penetrating spray. Apply it to the details and then knock on it using the hammer. It will help the WD-40 penetrate inside and weaken the knot so that it can be easily removed.

Cut

If the item rustually rustled that it is impossible to turn it out, only one option remains - cutting it out. This will make the component unsuitable for use, but will help you get rid of the problem. You can use pliers to get a good clutch with fasteners head and turn it hard to free from the position. Another viable way to weaken the rusty bolts and nuts on the car is to use the heating burner on a weak or moderate heating. Heat will allow rusty details to expand so much so that they can be loosen. However, it is important to be very careful with this method. Many lubricants applied to the stuck components are flammable and can ignite when exposed to flame.

Checked Rust Removal Methods

Although you can get rid of a rusty nut and replace it with a new one, this option is not available in all cases. There are many old nodes and details whose fasteners cannot be replaced by new ones. In such cases, you need to restore them using rust removal methods, which is the most cost-effective way to maintain the working capacity of the car. Here are some general methods used to remove rust.

Grinding

As soon as you finish the removal of rust, you can grasp it with steel cotton or sandpaper to remove the remaining rust. This is an inexpensive and relatively simple method. It can take a lot of time, and also requires lubricant to reuse fasteners.

Hydrogen peroxide

Applying hydrogen peroxide on fasteners and leaving for a while also remove rust. Hydrogen peroxide dissolves rust. Cleaning with a rigid brush will help you get rid of rust. It is also an inexpensive method of combating rust, but it can leave residual stains.

Repainting

The coating of nuts and screws can also prevent them from corrosion. Remove rust from fasteners before covering their paint, which protects against moisture - the main cause of rust. A wax or oil-based coating can also help prevent rust formation on the body and auto parts.

Rust converter

You can find a number of rust converters that can help get rid of rust. The penetrating spray WD-40 not only helps to weaken the rusty and stuck nuts and bolts, but also from the re-appearance of rust in the future.

Safety technique

Compliance with safety regulations - the key to successful work. Adhere to the recommendations of specialists to secure and simplify the process:

All tools and equipment must necessarily be regularly without damage.
Wrap the nut is needed counterclockwise.
Immediately before attaching an effort to unscrew the bolt or nut, make sure that the tool or equipment is reliably fixed and does not injure you.
Use special shopping gloves to not be injured.

Methods of unscrewing rusted parts at home

In most cases, you can unscrew the rusted bolt, unscrew the nut with a wrench or chisel. However, if he rusted or stuck, you will need to find another way to remove it. If the hex surfaces are not cleaned, try heating the propane burner bolt to weaken it. In some cases, really stuck components cannot be removed, and instead they need to cut. You can purchase all the necessary materials in a large shopping store or supermarket of home products.

Method 1. Weakening the bolt with a wrench or pliers

Spray penetrating oil under the head of the bolt and around the nut. Such penetrating oils like WD-40 will be fastened to the base, and help lubricate the thread on the bolt and unscrew the rusted nut. This will make it easier and will be especially useful if the bolt rusted. Give oil for at least 20 minutes to absorb. You can buy penetrating oil in any economic store. You can also find it in a large supermarket.
Wear a hollow piece of metal on the handle knob. Use a piece of metal at least half a meter. It will effectively extend your wrench for this length and will give you more strength when you try to unscrew a rusty bolt. You can find hollow metal rods in large household appliances or home products. Look for a rod with a hollow inner diameter of at least 19 mm. If you want, take your own end wrench to the household appliances store to make sure that his handle fits into the metal bar that you choose. Remember that the use of a hollow rod to increase the lever can lead to its damage or breakage.
Try to unscrew the stuck bolt using an elongated wrench. Hook the end of the end wrench over the fastening head and hold the wrench at the very end of the extension rod. With the other hand, grab the nut with large pliers. Dramatically pull the end of the wrench to try to loosen the stuck bolt. Ideally, the penetrating spray destroys the resistance and allows you to unscrew the rusty nut. If you are too uncomfortable to simultaneously hold a wrench and pliers, ask a friend or family member to help you.
Use pliers for fixing. If the sharp hexagon sides of the junction bolt have been cleaned and rounded, when trying to unlock the knot, the end wrench will slip away. Pliers for fixing have teeth on the inside of rounded sponges and can be firmly fixed on flat surfaces with jar. You must be able to wear a hollow piece of metal at the end of the pliers, as on any other wrench.

Method 2. Heating the bolt

Heat fastening with propane burner if he still succumbed. If the fastener does not move when you are trying to remove it with an elongated wrench, it's time to try to use heat. Turn on the propane burner and keep the flame at a distance of about 15 mm. from the surface. Keep the flame for about 15 seconds. Heat from the propane burner should lead to the expansion of the part.
Apply the flame from the propane burner to the nut for 15 seconds. As soon as you apply the flame to the node, and it will start expanding, switch and heated the nut for 15 seconds. Alternate the heating of components for about 2 minutes. The end of the bolt to which you do not apply the flame is compressed, and the end you are heated, expands. This will change the shared form of the node. Ideally, the expansion and compression will break any corrosion holding it in place.
Loosen with an elongated wrench. Insert the end of your end wrench into a hollow metal rod. Put the wrench and take the nut with two large pliers. Hold the nut on the spot and pull the end of the wrench. Make 4-5 sharp jerks and see if the mount is shifted. If the bolt is still not weakened, he heat his propane burner for another 10 minutes or go to another method.

Method 3. Removing a rusty bolt

Remove the rust as much as possible with a wire brush. Take a hard bristle wirebrush and aggressively clean the mount from rust. It is almost impossible to remove the fastener, which completely rusted, so wipe it within 4-5 minutes, until you remove almost all rust. Large shopping stores can sell wire brushes specifically designed to remove rust.
After removing most of the rust, pour both ends with a liquid threaded weeketer. Give liquids to absorb metal about 30 minutes. Effective lubricant brands penetrating through rust - Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and Royal Purple Maxfilm. Do not use WD-40 for this. Although it is an effective lubricant, it is not effective for penetration through rust layers.
Hit the base 6-12 times with a hammer. After the concentrate penetrating the rust will weaken the fastening, heavily hit it with a hammer to knock the knot from the position in which it is stuck. Hammer's blows can also lead to the formation of microcracks, which makes it easier to remove. Change the direction of hammer strikes so that they do not fall into one place. Once all 6 sides of the jammed nut at least once.
Unscrew rusty fasteners using an ends with a long handle. The long wrench handle will give you a larger lever than the typical key with a short handle. Hold on for the very end of the wrench and pull, exerting constant, sustainable pressure and increasing. With a sufficient effort, the bolt on the machine must succumb to get out. If you are not sure of the size, try 3-4 different size of the socket until you find the one that suits best.

Method 4. Destruction of the jammed bolt

Buy a screw extractor that matches the size of your bolt. Find an extractor of the correct size, which can remove the bolt-stuck on the car, measuring the diameter of its threaded part. Find the screw extractor about 0.3 cm already. If you have sizes, trading personnel can help you find the correct size extractor.
Drill the rod of the jammed bolt with a screw extractor. The screw extractor is a long, thin piece of metal with a thread, which is screwed into the usual electric drill. Install the hood point in the center of the bolt and slowly press the drill piece. Grind the screw extractor down through the base of the attachment and let it unscrew the bolt from the inside. Although it will destroy the bolt, it will be much easier to remove it.
If the screw extractor does not remove the bolt itself, pull out the bolt using a wrench. Set the end of the end key over the head of the drilled bolt and turn it counterclockwise to weaken the bolt. If the screw extractor destroyed the bolt, and the pieces of the bolt remained inside the material through which it was wrapped, you may need to hit the bolt head and the hammer nut to remove them.
If the screw extractor cannot pull the screw or if the screw is too rusted, so that the extract can penetrate it, the only output is to cut off the bolt from what it is attached to. Insert the knife blade into the piston saw and press the blade to the shaft of the jammed bolt. Turn on the saw and ride the bolt and shaft. When cutting a stuck bolt, hold your fingers and arms away from the blade.

Get rid of rust nuts and bolts and weaken the threads - a difficult task. If you are looking for the best lubricant to facilitate the task, then nothing compares with an aerosol for the penetration of WD-40. All you need to do is spray it into rusty and torn nuts and bolts. The market also presents rust transducers from other popular manufacturers. If there is no WD-40 at hand, use the subwoofers that every motorist in the garage. And first of all it is gasoline, kerosene, turpentine and others. The standard procedure is the place around the fastener is cleaned and poured with kerosene, diesel, gasoline. After 10-15 minutes, when the fluid penetrates deep into the thread, the bolt or nut can be twisted.

Such "solvents" such as vinegar, COCA Cola, alcohol solution of iodine or even brake fluid are also suitable for this purpose. The instruction for all means is the same - apply a means to a rusted bolt or nut, wait 15-30 minutes, and then try to disrupt it. WD-40 Penetrant is a high-speed powerful and fast penetrating spray, which is sent to hard-to-reach places and weakens stuck and jamming attachments. It also helps to weaken the rusty moving parts and is waterproof. Thus, it saves moisture, keeping your nuts and bolts in safety from future rust and corrosion.

In this article, we will tell about how to unscrew the baked nut, a rusty nut, a nut with torn faces or quite round. Separately disassemble cases with non-standard nuts - plastic and large size.

The material also describes the most appropriate tool, incl. Special tool professionally used to work with fasteners.

The material is useful for those who intend to unscrew the crankshaft fasteners, hubs, wheels, generator, exhaust manifold, variator, and on other nodes and car units, motorcycle or other equipment.

Than unscrew the nut

As a rule, the nuts are unscrewed by a manual plumbing tool - cash or horn keys, heads using a turning or ratchet. However, the problem situations often occur.

How to unscrew the nut when the nut is not unscrewed by a conventional tool with the usual forces? In this situation, it follows from the existing tool to choose the one that is best suited:

thin short horn keys, especially with too free (broken) yawn, are the worst option, from which it is immediately better to abandon the situation with the unscrewing of rusty supplied nuts (the horned key will lead to torn edges and further difficulties);
cauly keys with an elongated handle preferably of the horn, since the perimeter of the nut is more dense;
The 6-graded cape key or head is preferable to their 12-face versions;
gorotok because of the simplicity and strength preferably ratchet, because For the latest application of increased efforts, it may damage the mechanism (especially the ratchets with a large number of teeth, each of which is less than the size and not so durable);
impact pneumatic actuator will better cope than the hand tool;
in combination with a long gate or shock pneumo-robber, the best solution will be the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (faces), and to the planes, which eliminates the mufflation of the nuts;
moment amplifier (multiplier) will help to apply an effort to a large baked nut, inaccessible when using only human physical capabilities.

Which way to unscrew the nut

In the absolute majority of cases, the fasteners have the right direction of the thread: unscrew the nut is needed counterclockwise (we look at the nut from the side of the free threaded end of the bolt or hairpins through which the nut is to be driven).

Accordingly, unscrew the nut with the left thread clockwise.

By defining which way to unscrew the nut, it is enough to look at the fastener:

on the side of the turn of the threads under a small angle is visible - unscrew the nut aside, into which the thread "rises";
even if the threaded part is not visible, you can see the desired direction on the ends of the nut at the place of the release of the last turn of its inner thread.

How to unscrew the baked nut

In order to unscrew the baked nut, we recommend that several preliminary preparatory operations are recommended:

pull fastening fasteners from rust and dirt with a metal brush;
obtain a nut in a circle with a hammer without damaging her face and open threads.

Relaxed how to unscrew the baked nut, it is necessary to take into account several possible ways, based on the actual state and availability of fasteners for the instrument, the composition and parameters of the existing tool, the expediency of the destruction of the nut or the threaded part on which it is fixed.

The following options are possible to unscrew the accurate nut:

apply the heating of the nut (preferably to red and multiple);
apply a bolt thread (stud) penetrating composition (WD-40, liquid key or their analogues) in the contact slot (WD-40, liquid key or their analogues), to withstand the time required for the preparation (from 20 minutes and more from the fortune and activity of the means);
increase the power impact on unscrewing, a rising lever of the application of the forces by applying the elongated tool (or extension nozzles to the conventional length tool);
apply a special device - the moment amplifier (another name - torque amplifier, multiplier of the moment);
apply the tube key by holding them the nut and putting the force in the unscrewing direction;
clamp the nut into rigidly fixed vice and unscrew, rotating the entire part or the unit, if possible;
clamping small separate vice and try unscrew the nut them;
apply pneumatic shock wrench;
drill the threaded rod on which the nut stalled.

How to unscrew the torn nut

Damage to the faces (their breakdown) gives serious difficulties. The main solutions in this case are several:

use the Super Lock head (affects the plane, and not on the edge);
clamp a torn nut in a pipe veneer (in vice, clamp, pliers, etc.) and unscrew it;
score from above on the nut with the linked grooves suitable for the size of a larger nut, the inner diameter of which allows you to put it in the tension, to additionally sew the recess in the contact zone of nuts, inserting a metal rod (chip drill and a piece of nail) as a knap to exclude a gross) and unscrew fasteners by applying a tool to the size of a larger diameter nut with work facilities;
wear a larger diameter nut, cook both nuts together with a welding semiautomatic (closing the thread of the heel or a tube with a suitable wall thickness), unscrew the large nut together with the welded small.

How to unscrew the round nut

For round nuts, when the faces are cut and knew completely by previous unsuccessful attempts, or the nut is made in this form initially, you can also apply a few approaches:

put a standard six-sided nut of the larger diameter and on the line of their contact to leave the hole and lock the key and unscrew the screw for the large nut;
with a sufficient height of the side surface, use a special tool - pinching;
wear a round nut of a large thick thickness on a round nut (comparable with a height of the nut), cut from one side and with the inner diameter of the washer exactly corresponding to the outer diameter of the round nut, clamp the nut with a pipe key or visets, leaving the compression nut in the context will choose the gap to the dense coverage of the surface Round nut, unscrew fasteners.

In the latter way, pick a puck of having a stock probability is small, so it is easier to make it yourself from a suitable piece of metal.

How to unscrew the nut with its heating

Heating nuts is often available, simple and efficient way. When the metal is heated, the threaded surface of the nut is distributed, the corrosion clutch is somewhat destroyed and weakens the grab to the thread of the bolt or hairpins.

For heating, you can use any suitable heat source: matches, wax candle, lighter, burner from the gas spray, soldering lamp, gas cutter (carefully, at a sufficient distance, so as not to cry fastener), etc.

If there is an opportunity, it is better to warm up the nut and unscrew the nut. If it did not work from the first time, then the heating should be repeated several times. This is especially true may be for nuts planted for a special means - a thread retainer.

How to unscrew the nut with soching

The molding of fastening grabs with soching is a further development of relatively fast (20 minutes or a little more) the use of special penetrating compositions.

The threaded part of the nut is generally not characterized by a high height, therefore, if there is a sufficient time of long-term immersion in penetrating or chemically active with respect to rust, the composition is a productive solution.

The main approaches are two:

rudely moiste with rusty fasteners in the thread zone by the active agent, wind the available threaded shank of the bolt or stud in the zone of the nut moistened in this agent in this agent or put it on top to the end (if the shank does not protrude for the nuts plane), close with cellophane or rubber and wrapped;
immerse fasteners in chemistry completely.

It should be ensured that the penetration of the active composition occurs strictly vertically from top to bottom.

As chemistry can be applied:

penetrating compositions, in addition to the previously mentioned WD-40 and the "liquid key", can be used kerosene, gasoline, carburetor cleaner, locking locks and others;
rust converter;
chemically active in relation to rust compositions - table vinegar, iodine, alcohol, coca-cola, etc.

How to unscrew the big nut

For large nuts, 6 main ways can be effective:

apply a special tool that is intended for repair and maintenance of agricultural machinery, tractor and special equipment - the moment amplifier (other names - torque amplifier, multiplier of the moment);
use the appropriate nut size key with a long handle or a head with a long gate (if necessary, use a special extension cord or wear a suitable tube to a rotated external end;
in the absence of a suitable key or head, cut in a solid metal strip, the recess from one edge is strictly by the distance of parallel faces of the nut, thereby creating an individual key for a large nut;
use chisel and hammer for shocks in the verge of nuts in the direction of unscrewing;
welded with electric welding to a large nut Metal rod (as an option - a corner, a channel, or another profile) as a T-shaped or M-shaped handle for which unscrewing;
if the threaded end of the bolt or hairpins does not protrude for the outer surface of the nut, then you can drill in a large nut 2 of the recesses from this side, then at the same distance drill 2 holes in the thick metal strip (corner or other profile), combine the holes and insert into them Metal rods, apply an overclock force (the rods will work as a key with a slice by transmitting the torque of the nut).

The last 2 ways can be combined: to weld with welding to the outer upper plane of a large nut metal profile with a flat surface, further sew a pair of holes and insert the thick metal rods that will work like a slope on a slice when applying forces. This will significantly strengthen the welded connection.

Solving how to unscrew a large nut, it is necessary to proceed from the need to respect the integrity of the nut.

How to unscrew the plastic nut

Plastic nuts, as a rule, differ in the form and size of working surfaces from conventional metal nuts. The compliance of the material limits, although it does not always exclude, the use of a tool compressing from two sides (tubular key, vice, etc.) - it is necessary as possible coverage of most of the perimeter.

You can unscrew the plastic nut:

a special key of factory manufacture, the working surface of which repeats the profile of the perimeter of the nut;
independently manufactured key;
puller for oil car filters that firmly cover the circle with steel ribbon or several metal legs (the stronger the effort is stronger than the coverage);
click to the protrusions of the plastic nut wooden lumps and two opposite sides and together to simultaneously hit hammers in the unscrewing direction;
with a small diameter - pliers with wide disclosure;
pipe (gas) key.

If the regular key is lost, it is easy to make a key with your own hands from not the most difficult metal (steel or aluminum) or tight plastic. First, it is smarter from the cardboard to make a template, check the landing density on a plastic nut, after which it is to transfer the contour to a suitable piece of sheet material and cut with a handle.

How to unscrew the nut in a hard-to-reach place

A special tool is used to work with hard-to-reach fasteners:

key or ratchet with a short handle;
ratchet with a large number of teeth in the mechanism (gives a small angle of rotation, which is relevant in cramped conditions);
extension cords for heads;
flexible drives for heads.

I solve how to unscrew the nut in a hard-to-reach place, you must first find a suitable tool - purchase or ask for a while.

How to unscrew the nut with its destruction or damage

In the most hopeless cases, when all available methods and tools did not give results, the mount remains separated by the destruction of the fastener:

adding chisel to the harms of the nut, hit the hammer on it in the direction of unscrewing;
spin fasteners with power tool with cutting circle;
cut with hand-hacksaw for metal;
destroy the nut with the drilling of numerous holes;
cut the nut with a chisel and hammer (easier - after pre-drilling holes);
apply a specially created tool - Gaikol;
wear a larger nut, cook both nuts together along the perimeter with a welding semiautomatom (closing the threaded part of the bolt or tube with a tube with sufficient wall thickness to exclude the welding one), unscrew the key for the large nut.

Conclusion

Solving how to unscrew the nut, it is very reasonable to immediately use the appropriate effective tool and perform preliminary preparations based on the status of fasteners. An unprepared application of a rough strength of an inappropriate tool with a high probability may result in damage to the faces of the nut, breaking the stud or tool.

Before unscrewed the nut, it is worth cleaning the threaded part of the hairpin or bolt, apply the penetrating composition and only after that apply forces. Taking into account the methods described in this article, even the most difficult cases may end with a positive outcome, if you spend some extra time for the preparation.

Returning to this article when it is necessary, you can find the necessary hint in response to the question of how to unscrew the crankshaft nut, hubs, wheels, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and on other nodes and aggregates.

It is difficult to find a master who has never come across his life with an accredited threaded compound. Today we will tell about the best ways to deal with a similar problem with a different type of compounds and using a variety of tools and devices.

What wrench keys to use

The breakdown of the rusted thread requires a significant effort. Unfortunately, ordinary horn keys for these purposes are unsuitable. They are not only not effective enough, so you can simply spoil a good tool. Even the horns from CR-V are able to raise and lose its original size forever.

In the old workshops, the horn keys enhanced, welding the segments of the reinforcement on them and using specially for the breakdown of rusty threaded connections. Today there is no need for such modifications: end heads and cape keys that are suitable for breakdown are common.

There is, however, a small warning: keys and heads having 12 or 18 faces for breakdown, are not suitable, the probability of slipping is large. It is better to use for breakdown hexagon tools. Even better if the heads have so-called swivel or screw faces. They are called - heads for torn faces. When unscrewed, they themselves provide the desired clamping force.

If the appropriate end heads find enough simple, then the cavities with six faces are extremely rare. However, they are indispensable for the breakdown of nuts with a large departure of the thread, where only an elongated head can serve as the only alternative cape ring key, and it is not always. Caucasic keys with twelve floors on highly boiled nuts with a high probability will come into disrepair.

In some situations and end, and the cavities are useless. Nuts and bolts with completely linked faces can only be unscrewed using tube separating keys or self-activated clamps. Tip from Car service: Use small plumbing vices for clamping nuts (or vicechard) with an adjustable key as a lever.

Lubricants and chemistry for etching

The processes leading to the scan of threads due to rust occur in a microscopic scale. The nearest analogy on the macro level - when the cereals get stuck in a funnel: crushing each other, the particles of rust and salts are tightly scorn with the constrained space. The situation is exacerbated by the fact that, oxidizing in air, the rust increases in size and as if he cuts the thread from the inside.

The simplest way to get rid of such an effect is to turn the crystalline particles into a viscous porridge. A solvent can serve as a wide range of liquids - from water to kerosene and machine oil. The more fluid will be lubricant, the more efficient its work in the weakening of the rustic thread. In high yield and consists of the advantage of universal lubricants of the WD-40 type.

Note that the chemical composition of rust may differ from the case of the case and attempts to lubricate the threaded connection do not always lead to success. An alternative may be an attempt to dissolve the deposition of salts inside the thread with water, or weakly concentrated solutions of acids or alkalis. The only drawback of such a method is time for the reaction, it is necessary, often quite long. However, if you leave the threads moistened with coca-cola, a tool to clean the sinks with hydrochloric acid or even ordinary water, for several hours, then twist the rusted nut will not be easier to twist.

What does "imitate" thread

Solve the problem is quickly possible only with the help of mechanical impact on the threaded connection. At the same time, the impact must necessarily be dynamic: there is no point in the croup-stuck in a funnel, but if you shake it, the grains will start waking up again.

In common, it is called "to warm the thread" - to apply a series of point shocks in different parts of the connection. It is the vibrational impact that helps to weaken the jammed threads and subsequently breaking the usual key can occur at all without tangible effort.

To warm up the thread, it is necessary to cut the nut both in the edges and in the axial direction. Bolt strikes can also be crowned with success. The greatest effect is provided by the perforator in the dilution mode, but the nut is needed periodically.

How to burn a rusted nut

Alternative to the previous method - destroy large crystals of salts and oxides, reducing the force of friction inside the thread. This can be done due to the temperature expansion of the metal of the nut and bolt. In the simplest case, another, but larger diameter welded to the garlic nut. Due to the warming up the thread and the presence of fresh faces, the thread becomes very simple.

The bugger of the threaded connection helps almost 100% of cases, but it is not always convenient for two reasons:

There is no suitable equipment on the spot;
Connected or adjacent details are sensitive to heating.

However, it's not necessary to roll a thread at all. It is enough to ensure the heating of about 450-500 ºС, while the expansion into several microns will be quite enough. Even the usual gas burner on the propane can cope with this task.

A more sophisticated way is to wind the nut with several shorts of nichrome or faheral wire and apply the voltage from the car battery. Such local heating will save the sensitive parts from the effects of the flame and will help substantially weaken the threads.

How to use the aging of nuts

The bolted compounds remaining rusty in the top ten or more years may turn out to be completely relevant. To disconnect the parts before the nut buried or weakened with a chisel. There are enough two notches on different faces, but not only in the neighboring.

Today, this purpose provides a special tool. Cuts are similar to the cavities, but on one of the faces there is a movable hardwly cutter with a screw feed mechanism. It is very easy to use: taking the cutter close to reliable fixation, you need to throw the tail of the screw knob and make another 2-3 full turn. The sharpening angle is specifically selected in such a way that the nut is deformed, and at the same time its inner diameter increased.

There will be enough couples from different sides that the carving began to turn freely. However, it is worth it to be neat: the steel of the cutter is rather fragile, plus there is always a chance to damage the thread of the bolt, which in most cases is undesirable.

If the hairpin boiled: Learn to work by extractor

If the bolt is screwed into the inner thread in one of the details, then heating, calcining and other effects on the connection are strongly limited. Very often in such cases, the bolt breaks down and a fragment remains inside the part.

If a large diameter bolt (M10 and more) broke around, and at the same time can be used smaller fasteners for fixing, it is much more profitable to drill a new hole and produce smaller threads in it. It is possible to reverse: drill a bolt to a larger drill completely and cut the larger threads.

With such operations, you need to be very careful and carefully monitor the drilling direction. Especially in cases where the solid steel bolt is surrounded by a softer material, for example, as in the engine cylinder block.

If there is a special debris tool, you can completely unscrew. It makes sense to use an extractor with the sizes of a broken bolt from M6 and above, smaller studs require an almost jewelry approach.

To unscrew the chip by an extractor, first need to be done along its central axis a longitudinal opening of such a diameter, which specifically used the extractor is calculated. Before that, the visible edge of the debris is becoming perpendicular and driven exactly in the center.

The extractor has a left thread with a small taper. When screwing it into the body of the bolt or the stud occurs when the friction forces in the inner thread becomes higher than in the outer, and then the boiled fragment is broken and can be relatively easily removed.

When using the extractor, it is necessary that there is enough "body" in the fragment, and otherwise the conical screw can crush the remains of the hairpins and swam it even stronger. It is also very important to accurately adhere to the installed diameters of the preparatory openings and use extractors of the appropriate size only.

Ways to prevent corrosion on thread

When you restore the threaded connection, take care that the problem does not appear again. Conduct corroding threads with neutral acid lubricants or weakly alkaline. This GSM class is referred to as conservation, typical examples - graphite lubricant Uss and Solidol.

It will also help the protection of the threaded connection from the environment. For this, most paints and enamels are suitable on an alkyd or polyurethane based. It is not necessary to use silicone, for its high acidity only contributes to the formation of rust.

Finally, do not forget that some threaded connections need maintenance and a drawing. If the compound must remain terminated, it is necessary periodically (once every 2-3 years) and lubricate at least conventional machine oil.