Close up a hole in an enamelled saucepan. Repair of enameled pan. Technology performing work

Soldering of stainless steel is a rather laborious procedure, but will not cause special problems, if you know all the features of its execution. With a much smaller way, labor costs can be soldered, which contain no more than 25% chromium and nickel. Moreover, the soldering of stainless steel with such chemical makeup allows to obtain reliable compounds of products from heterogeneous metals, excluding alloys with magnesium and aluminum.

To minimize the risk of carbide compounds in the structure of the stainless steel under the soldering, the composition of the alloy add titanium, and after the compound is generated, the product is subjected to heat treatment. It should be very neatly approaching the soldering of stainless steel stainless steel, the surface of which under the influence of the heated solder can be covered by cracks. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to exclude the load of the parts connected during the soldering process. In addition, you can perform a preliminary annealing of the combined products.

To choose a solder, with which it is possible to solder a stainless steel, affects both the chemical composition of the alloy and the conditions of the technological process. So, if this process is carried out with increased humidity of the environment, then silver alloys should be used, which include a slight amount of nickel. Soldering under the oven conditions, as well as in the relative dry atmosphere, is performed using chromonichel and silver-manganese soldiers.

The most common type of flux, which is used when soldering the stainless steel, is a beara that is applied to the place of the future compound in the form of a paste or powder. The melting of the drill on the surface of the parts connected contributes to the uniform and most accurate heat of the portion of the future seam to the desired temperature - 850 °. Only after the required heating temperature is achieved, which can be determined by changing the color of the place of the future connection to light red, in the joint between the parts is injected with solder.

After the soldering is completed at the connection site there are flux residues that are removed by washing with water or. To perform such a procedure, nitrogen or hydrochloric acid cannot be used, which, although effectively purify the remaining flux on the surface of parts, have a negative impact on both the main metal and for the solder used.

How to execute a soldering at home

With such tasks, as a combination of stainless steel parts with soldering and soldering of stainless steel with copper, often face at home. Stainless steel products are actively used in everyday life for many years, therefore, when they come into disrepair for any reason, any home master arises a natural desire to repair them on their own. It should be immediately to say that it is not so difficult to solder details from a stainless steel, the main thing is to strictly adhere to technology, as well as stock appropriate tools and consumables.

Before starting to solder the stainless steel, it is very desirable not only to explore the theoretical material on this issue, but also to get acquainted with the rules of its implementation with the help of educational videos.

To solder stainless steel products, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• a soldering iron operating from electricity whose power is at least 100 W;
• special soldering acid, which will be used as a flux;
• fire or sandpaper;
• solder, specially intended for connecting steel parts, the basis of which is tin and lead;
• cable made of steel;
• metal tube.

Selecting a soldering iron to work with a stainless steel, you should stop your choice on a tool with a power of 100 watts. The use of a more powerful device to perform such works is simply inappropriate.

The process of soldering parts from stainless steel is performed according to the following algorithm.

1. First of all, it is necessary to carefully clean the place of the future compound, for which the sandpaper or file is used.
2. After preparing the surfaces of the parts connected on them, it is necessary to apply flux, which has already been mentioned above, a soldering acid is used. The main task of the flux is to provide high-quality logging of parts connected.
3. After the surfaces of the connected parts are processed by flux, it is necessary to perform their conjugation, which is to apply on them a thin layer of solder consisting of tin and lead. If it is not possible to perform the logging from the first time, it is necessary to repeat such a procedure, pre-warmed the parts connected.
4. Even after the heating of the products and their re-processing, the fossi may not be crowned with success - the solder will simply roll from the surface of the parts, and do not lie on them with a thin film. In this case, it is necessary to take advantage of the tassel with metal veins, which is easy to make from the tube and. Before using such a brush to the surface of the parts, it is also necessary to apply flux (soldering acid) and only then, heating the place of the future soldering iron connection, clean it with a metal brush. Such a simple technique allows you to effectively clean the surface of the stainless steel from the oxide film, which is usually the main obstacle to the implementation of high-quality logging.
5. After the connected products managed to apply a thin layer of tin, you can start to solder them. This procedure is performed using a soldering iron and solder, which fill the joint between the details.

Types of soldiers

Products made of stainless steel can be soldered as soft solders made on the basis of tin and lead and solid types of twisted material, which includes more refractory metals.

Soft solder due to the fact that its basis is tin, is a low-melting material that is characterized by high plasticity and liquid procession in the molten state. What is especially important when performing a soldering of stainless steel products, it has a good deoxidizing capacity.

More reliable compounds both in production and at home allows you to get a soldering performed using solid solders. Metals from which they are made are melted at a higher temperature than tin, which makes it possible to get reliable and durable connections with them. Very often, materials of this type are based on technical silver, which in their composition may be contained up to 30%.

One of the popular types of solid solder is the material of the HTS-528 brand, which is successfully used for soldering not only stainless steel, but also copper, brass, bronze, nickel and other metals. It is convenient that it is produced in the form of a rod, the surface of which is already covered with a layer of flux. Working with such a privacy in production conditions or at home, it should be borne in mind that its melting temperature is 760 °.

Cooking Fluice

When soldering a stainless steel, it should be very carefully considered to the question of choosing a finished flux or a recipe for its independent manufacture. The classic composition of the flux that can be prepared at home includes the following components:

• buru (70%);
• boric acid (20%);
• fluoride calcium (10%).

For soldering of products that differ in small sizes, you can prepare a flux that will consist only of boos and boric acid mixed in the same proportion. Mixing the components of the flux in dry form, it must be dissolved with water and the solution already obtained to process the place of the future connection.

To perform a soldering of stainless steel, you should take advances in experienced specialists.

• The power of the soldering iron, which should effectively warm the connected metal, is in the range of 60-100 W, but it is better to stop its choice on a stove device. For soldering of overall details, such as stainless steel pipes, it is not necessary for an electric soldering iron, but a gas burner.
• Choosing an electric soldering iron, it is better to stop your choice on models equipped with tips that do not burn.
• The most economical and universal solder type, allowing to obtain high-quality stainless steel products, are tin-lead rods. In the event that the ware will be sold, which will be in contact with food or liquids, it is better to use a pure tin, which does not contain harmful impurities.
• The room in which the soldering work is performed should be well ventilated.
• By performing a soldering, it is necessary to use individual protective equipment to not harm your health.

What else should be known about the solder of stainless steel

In cases where special requirements are presented to soldered joints from stainless steel products, special brands of solders can be used, which includes materials made on the basis of nickel and phosphorus, as well as nickel, chromium and manganese. Solders of the second group are used, in particular, in cases where the soldering is performed in a protective gas medium consisting of a mixture of argon with a three-meter boron. When performing soldering along such technology, clean copper can be used as a solder, which wets the metal well and forms a reliable connection.

Nickel-based solders make it possible to obtain compounds that differ in high strength. Meanwhile, there are materials and disadvantages to which low plasticity should be attributed. That is why such a additive material is not used to connect elements of stainless steel structures, which will be exposed to shock and vibration loads during its operation. In addition, the soldering seam from such material is very critical refers to low temperatures. The solder soldering of the nickel group, which melt at a temperature greater than 1000 °, can be performed in a dry hydrogen, argon and in vacuo.

Thus, the soldering of stainless steel products (overall pipes operated under pressure, dishes, furniture or interior items) has its own nuances that must be taken into account when choosing both soldering modes and consumables. There are many directories, guided by which, it is possible to optimally choose all the necessary materials and get a high-quality, reliable and beautiful soldering connection.

Enameled dishes are distinguished by durability and durability, but with improper handling it can quickly fail. Various factors affect the appearance of products, for example, frequent overheating or drop from height. The repair of enamels on the dishes is a difficult thing, but, in some cases, it is possible to renovate it on its own.

How to restore damaged enamel

The easiest way to finely repair the damaged surface is the use of enamel paint, which is produced in the canopy:

• "Nitroemal";
• "White enamel";
• "Enamel for baths."

Before restoring the enamel on a saucepan, you need to clean the place of damage, degrease it and dry. After that, you can spray paint on the chip, following the instructions on the label. You can only apply enamel on those places that are not in contact with food products.

You can repair a saucepan with a soldering iron. To do this, you will need an electric soldering iron, solder and soldering acid. To make such a procedure, it will take pure tin, which melts at a temperature of 232 ° C.

When you first work with a soldering iron, you must remove the isolation from it. To do this, it is necessary to clean the end of the grinding paper, heat the device and rub it about the rosin. To secure a saucepan, you should walk along the necessary sections of the surface with emery paper, and clean from fat and rust.

Only after that you can take a hot soldering iron, separate them a small part of the solder and distribute it throughout the surface of the working end of the device.

A damaged place should be heated and lubricated with flux, with a wooden stick. Further, you need to apply a drop of tin and evenly distribute it on the surface, making moving back and forward. When solder is smoothed, you should take another small amount of tin and repeat the procedure until it fills all microcracks and displaces the flux.

Repair saucepan at home

It is possible to restore enamel at home with the help of own cooking. The following components will be required:

• white clay - 220 g.;
• burned Bura - 50 g;
• sodium metasilicate - 25 g.;
• haashed lime - 25 g.;
• powder glass - 30 g.;
• clean water - 15 ml.;
• capacity;
• mortar.

All reagents can be purchased in chemical stores, as they are sold in consolidated access. The components must be folded in the pitch, grind and mix thoroughly. The place of the chip should be treated with sandpaper, remove fat, apply the cooked splock and leave for 48 hours. During this time, the putty is completely grabbed with enamel, it will only stay to ginger the plot to make it beautiful and smooth.

Even if they manage to close the hole and restore the coating, then such a dishes still will not last long. In addition, it should not store products for a long time and exposed to high temperatures. Consequently, it is better to initially preserve the pans in the original form and carefully handle them.

1. The enamel is destroyed with sharp drops of temperatures, so the dishes with such a coating can not be empty on fire.
2. To avoid the appearance of chips at the bottom of the pan, you can use wooden spoons and spatulas for stirring.
3. If enamel has already begun to disappear, then you should not use the kitchenware. It cannot be prepared for food and boil water, since metal compounds can enter the organism, and cause poisoning.
4. It is better to cook in the enameled saucepan of first dishes, compotes and kisins, since porridge and some second dishes can hardly burn. Naturally, rigid brushes that destroy the coating will be laundering such a nagar.
5. Before first use, a new saucepan must be washed using dishwashing tools and wipe dry.

So that the enamel retains its qualities as long as possible, the dishes with such a coating can be hardening. To do this, it is necessary to fill with a pan with water, add salt, at the rate of 2 tbsp. per 1 liter Water and boil. You can only merge water when it completely cools. If you comply with these recommendations, you can achieve the fact that the dishes will serve many more years.

Restoration of enamel

On damaged enameled dishes

Enameled dishes are beautiful, convenient, hygienic, you can not only cook food, but also to store it, and for quite a long time.

Enamel coating in the dishes protects food from the penetration of the ions of harmful metals, besides, on the smooth surface of the enamel are not able to multiply the bacteria.

Enamels (glass email), powered by metal, are slightly melting, transparent, white or painted glasses; They serve to protect the metal from corrosion and to give metal products a beautiful view.

Enameled cast iron dishes do not require special training before use. It is enough to rinse with soap in hot water. The dishes are harmless, hygienic and resistant to the action of food acids (vinegar), alkalis and salts.

Absolutely harmless will be the enamel of the following colors: cream, white, gray-blue, black and blue. All other enamel colors, especially bright, contain chemical compounds of manganese, cadmium and other metals in large quantities. Therefore, choosing enameled dishes, pay attention to the color of the enamel, and even better, look for labeling GOST.

But this dishes also have its drawbacks: sometimes it is too heavy, and most importantly, when she is often chips enamel. After that, the enameled dishes loses resistance to acids and alkalis and quickly fails: the metal under the enamel is very quickly rust, sometimes even through.

If enamel is already shaking, try to restore it. However, keep in mind that in the dishwashed enamel coating, it will not be possible to pick up cabbage, keep milk, cook jam.

To restore the damaged enamelled layer on dishwashing products operated in everyday life and high temperatures (up to 350 ° C), such as gas tiles, gas speakers, pots, industry produces white enamel KO-5102. Enamel is applied to the cleaned and primed metal surface by spraying the jet from the aerosol cylinder.

Enamel coating technology for dishes without special equipment

Method 1. Putty for enameled surfaces:

kaolin 225 g, dripped fine ground 60 g, borerized 40g cake, silica powder sodium 30 g, glass powder 20 g, lime harated 20 g, water 50-125 ml.

After thorough mixing of these substances in a porcelain cup, a homogeneous mass is formed. The cracked enameled surface is purified, degreased and rubbed with putty. Drying lasts 48 hours.

Method 2. Putclone for enameled surfaces:

13 pieces of casein, 4 parts of hawed lime, 10 parts of sodium calcined, 6 parts of sodium silicate, 15 parts of ground quartz, 5 parts of the pile glass, 50 parts of kaolin.

The putty before use is wetting a little water and stands until the casein connects with alkalis. Then dilute the smelting to the consistency of the liquid test, the places from which should be previously removed by rusting the rank and fat, and leave to dry in the air.

Method 3. Putclone for enameled surfaces:

Mass in pieces

Casein 12, glass Liquid sodium 6, Bura 10, Quartz flour 14, Powder of gripped glass 5,

All components are mixed and adding water to the form of a tough mass; The damaged place is well purified, degreased and applied to it prepared mass. After drying, the coating becomes waterproof and is well withstanding the heat.

The scratched dishes are restored, polishing it with pasta, which prepare, mixing white magnesia, mela powders, iron oxide ("crocus"), tremped, and adding water.

Advice

With a sharp change in the temperature of the enamel cracks, therefore it is impossible to put an empty pan on a hot plate.

Trying food, do not hit a spoon about the edge of the pan, to shake the remnants, stir in it better than a plastic or wooden spoon. Try not to drop it. Enamel begins to smooth out, chips may appear and at the bottom.

It is impossible to cook in a saucepan with a breakaway enamel - eating substances harmful to health (can be poisoned by metals). In it, even water should not be boiled.

The second drawback - the food in it can burn even more than aluminum. Therefore, cooking porridge in such a dishes is not worth it.

Cooking in enameled dishes is best soup, borsch, soup, vegetable stew, kisyl and compotes.

It is possible to boil pasta in it, rice - but surely, as soon as the cereal (in boiling water), you need to immediately interfere, so that the croups do not adhere to the bottom.

Before the first use of enameled dishes, it must be washed with warm water with a liquid detergent and wipe dry.

New saucepan can be handled. Pour into it water to the edges, add 2 tablespoons of salt (per liter), boil, give cool and then drain the water.

The color of the pan choose when buying is preferably dark, and the bottom is better when you are crushed.

The thicker and massive dishes, the better it resists shocks.

When the favorite pan "gives to flow," it can be returned to life, shoven the hole. In the same way, you can extend the service time of any metal kitchen utensils (kettle, water bucket).

Hole in a saucepan: how to secure

To eliminate the hole in the favorite pan with the soldering, we will need:

1. Prepare Patchwork Material (Copper Plate)
2. Clean surfaces (sandpaper / file)
3. Degreased and soldering (gasoline / acetone / solder / flux / soldering acid / soldering iron)

And now about all this in order.

1. Preparation for work

In the case of a small hole in a saucepan, you will need quite a bit aluminum wire and tin solder. The holes latch more with the imposition of a copper patch on the projected area of \u200b\u200bthe dishes. This is the main secret of how to repair the enameled saucepan. For soldering using a copper plate, a cut-out patch should be slightly exceeding the paws in a saucepan.

2. Stripping surfaces

When all the necessary tools and consumables are prepared, you can proceed to stripping surfaces. To do this, use:

• fellow
• file
• emery paper

Surfaces should be cleaned from plaque, rust, scale, corrosion, etc. If the soldering is performed with a copper patch - platinum is cleaned up to the brilliance.

3. Degreasing surfaces

The next step must be treated with solvent, gasoline, acetone, and after a flux (which will remove all the remaining pollution and oxide films). If the flux is not, it is reasonable to replace it with "soldering acid" / "soldering fluid", which is freely sold in any specialized store.

4. Web

The soldering iron warms up and falls down in the rosin or ammonia, for cleaning oxide films. With the appearance of light haze, know the soldering iron is ready for work!

The tool is touched by the fact that the sorry of the soldering iron does not cover the characteristic film. Capturing a little solder, we transfer it to the place of the spike, spread the holes on the edges in a saucepan (from the external and inner side). Thus, we climbed the places of the future spike.

In the same way, slices of solder are gradually transferred to the hole, which close the hole in the saucepan. Small lumens can be filled with whole.

In the case of the laying of the plate (in order to repair the enameled pan), the nearby surface of the hole is repaired, and the copper plate is put on top of the solder. To carry out better fastening of metals, the plate must also warm the soldering iron. It is important to ensure that the surfaces of the patchwork and pots come into contact as tight as possible. The emerged lumens are filled with the solder.

5. Preparation for use

After the solder cools and the pan will be cashed, the surface of the margins can be cleaned with the same sandpaper to give the spike place a more accurate look.

Additions and notes

When soldering aluminum pots come somewhat differently. After stripping the surfaces, they immediately float prepared in advance by the melt of the rosin. This will avoid the formation of oxide films that appear on aluminum products in seconds.

In addition, to spare an aluminum pan, you will need a more powerful soldering iron (minimum 100 watts). The mixture is necessary as a solder:

• 80-95% tin
• 5-20% bismuth

How flux need to apply stearin / paraffin.

In general, both in general, sowing a hole in an aluminum saucepan (repair the enameled pan) only more complicated than in copper or metallic. Show patience and excerpt, and the desired result will not make yourself wait. The award will be a renovated pan, which for many years can be used for appointment instead of going to the landfill and metropolitan item!

If your favorite saucepan has become happening, try to secure it. With the help of this method, it is allowed to increase the life of this desired dishes. You need to solder for each rules, because these exploitation of the pan (high temperature and water) can lead to the formation of a new hole.

You will need

• - solder;
• - copper plate;
• - Fire or sandpaper;
• - gasoline, flux or "soldering acid";
• - soldering iron.

Instruction

1. If the hole is small, take a piece of aluminum wire for soldering or tin solder. For a large hole, detect a slice of the copper plate and cut out the latch with a little much more than a hole.

2. Before starting to solder pans , Clean the surface of the bottom of the napfil, with a file or sandpaper to the metal so, so that there were no raids, the copper plate also polish to the brilliance. Fat fatty with gasoline or other solvent, then lubricate the flux with a brush (flux is necessary for the complete cleansing of fatty clogs and removal of oxide films from the metal). In addition, the flux is allowed to apply "Soldering Liquid" or "Soldane Acid".

3. Take a soldering iron, heat it and lower the rosin or ammonia in the powder (in order to clean from metal oxides). If there is a light smoke, the soldering iron is ready for work. Take the tool to the solder and hold it there until it covers the entire sparkling film. After that, capture a slightly solder sting and transfer it to the soldering place. Role over the bottom of the bottom of the pan around the hole (we will find the place of falling).

4. Take the solder of the soldering iron and carry the desired for a strong attachment to the place of the spike. Small holes are allowed to fully fill the solder. For fastening the plate, apply solder around the hole, crumple and top the patch. So that the plate was perfectly seized and fixed, adding a soldering iron to the entire surface of the march.

5. Later, how the solder will cool, wipe this place with a crude cloth and read the file or emery paper.

6. If you need to spare aluminum pans , Consider that it is somewhat harder, because aluminum is difficult to solder. In order to form the oxide film, the oxide film did not sleep, immediately later the stripping of the place falling immediately pour the pre-molten rosin. Soldering are driving a strong soldering iron (at least 100 W). Use solder from 80% or 95% tin, 20% and 5% bismuth, respectively. Flux Choose from stearin or paraffin. If you fulfill all this data, it is permissible to easily pans From aluminum.

Even the most neat hostess occurs such trouble as a burnt dish. It is worth only to turn away - in the MiG of Oka, the prepaid food is managed to turn into coal and, in addition, to stick to the bottom and walls of the dishes. Extremely easily burns food in aluminum saucepans, so that the elimination of the consequences may pose any hostess. However, it is not worth putting the cross on the powerfully burnt dishes. Clear aluminum pans allowed with the help of several available funds.

You will need

• - soda;
• - sponge for washing dishes;
• - plastic brush;
• - jar of silicate glue;
• - laundry soap;
• - Huge boiling capacity.

Instruction

1. Lay out from the burnt aluminum pan with a spoon of the renings of the prepared food. Do not try to scrubly pans To remove the prigar, it only scratches the coating and will result in the damage of aluminum dishes.

2. In primitive cases of food burning, take advantage of the hostess in all in the moment. Pour into aluminum pans So much water, so that she reached the end of the burnt line on the walls of the dishes. If only the bottom burned, pour water by 1-1.5 cm above the bottom of the pan. Put citric acid into this container or drinking soda at the rate of: 1 tsp. on 1 l of water. Close pans Lid, put on fire and boil for 10-15 minutes.

3. When burning, the pan is stronger than the ordinary boiling of one soda may not fit the dishes. In this case, pour in the store by a cake of silicate glue. Fill in pans Water liter, pour into it a tablespoon of soda, add the same number of silicate glue. Stir the resulting solution and close pans lid. Boil on fire this mixture for at least 30 minutes. Later, turn off the fire and leave pans With a solution to cool. After that, pour the cooled mass of the dishes and sweat its walls and the bottom of the plastic brush.

4. If the pan's clogging has spread to its outer walls, try cleaning the dishes of the whole, boiling it to the greater saucepan. Chumazay dishes should be freely placed in this container. Pour the burnt dishes in greater tank with water so so that the water was on the tier 1-1.5 cm above the purified pan. Stit into the capacity of the economic soap and add a transparent silicate glue there. For one liter of water, the ratio in grams of soap and glue is 20:10. Boil the resulting mass for 2-3 minutes and leave until complete cooling. Later, wash the purified aluminum pans running water with a soft sponge.

Video on the topic

Note!
Do not use different hostile acids and abrasive substances for cleaning aluminum saucepan. They are damaged by the surface of aluminum, and the metal particles later enter the food.

Aluminum Die hot is difficult to solder. When soldering on the surface, an oxide film is formed. But from aluminum make a lot of home appliances, automotive spare parts and mechanical parts. If the device has failed, not everyone can allow themselves to acquire the newest, the more that the dilapidation is absolutely permitted to fix themselves.

You will need

• -sandpaper;
• - ammonium chloride;
• - zinc chloride;
• -water;
• - Standing sawdust;
• -rosin;
• -tin;
• -bismuth;
• -people;
• - Pyatnik.

Instruction

1. First you need to prepare the surface for soldering. Clean it from dirt, dust or paint. Clean the sandpaper either with a file and degrease the alcohol. Understand the surface, from the fact that the raw aluminum is unrealistic to solder. Prepare a flux in advance, the one that helps to remove oxide films. Flux is allowed to prepare further: in 60 ml of water, 10 g of ammonium chloride and 30 g of zinc chloride should be dissolved. As a flux is allowed to use mineral oil.

2. Mount the rosin and add minor steel sawdust to it. The burning soldering iron applines this solution on the seam and add to the solder slightly, continuously conducting a soldering iron on the seam.

3. Special bismuth solders are applied for more strong seam. Such solders are allowed to make independently. It is necessary to melt tin and bismuth in the ratio of 19: 1. After that, apply this mixture into a navalized surface in advance. Do not forget that in the process of each work, the soldering iron must be heated.

4. Another exciting and efficient method. The surface of the aluminum part must be cleaned with sandpaper and apply several drops of intense copper sulfate solution. Connect the part to the negative pole of the current source (battery, battery). To the positive pole, it is necessary to connect a copper wire, which concerns one end of the solution of copper mood, but at the same time does not touch the aluminum. The sense of this method is that a copper raid should be formed on the site of the spawning, which is allowed to solder by the ordinary method.

Video on the topic

Note!
Later, the soldering will certainly clean the seam from clogging and oxidation.

Helpful advice
When soldering a thin surface is allowed to apply a soldering iron with a power of about 50 W. For aluminum parts with a thickness of 1 mm - 90 W. And for more than a thick sheet of aluminum, each previously, you need to warm the surface with a soldering iron.