Simple brick stove with your own hands. Instructions for masonry brick furnace with their own hands. What is better to use for masonry: materials and tools

Brick ovens, even the smallest, have many advantages Before metal heating devices.

Iron stoves are heated very quickly, but also quickly cooled, not warming air. Brick mini oven long gives heatand keeps a comfortable temperature for several hours.

This heating structure can be made independently without resorting to the help of a professional bubble.

Schemes of brick mini-stoves

Small furnaces occupy a small area, the size of their foundations fluctuate from 50 to 70 centimeters in width and up to 65-100 cm long. Height The heating structure is 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A cooking flooring is embedded in the furnace, a wardrobe, a hot water tank. Hecks also developed instruments intended only for home heating.

Small heating construction

This is the easiest heating structure. We will analyze the model of the following dimensions:

width grounds - 51 cm;
length bases (depth) - 89 cm;
height — 238 cm.

The mini stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or at the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. Interior partitions are erected around the oven, which allows heating the kitchen, and the adjacent room.

Inside the device There are:

coaching chamber;
confused;
smoke channels leading to chimney.

Machine door mini stove ( cast iron or glass) It is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the home owners. The door from the heat-resistant glass, through which the firewood is visible, gives the design with a fireplace. In the middle and top Furnaces are installed two smoke valves. There is one door to clean the channels. To build this model, you will need:

260 pieces Brick ceramic;
130 Shamotnaya pieces brick;
cOLOs (40x23 cm);
equipment (30x20 cm) and inflowable (20x14 cm) doors;
2 doors for clean holes ( 20x40 cm);
metal foremost leaf (50x70 cm);
two sheets ruberoid size 60x100 mm;
sand and clay (or finished clay and sand mixture for masonry), clay-chamoite mixture.

Reference. The masonry solution increases the volume of the device on the thickness of the seams.

Base and top The mini-furnace is laid out by ceramic brick on the clay and sandy solution. Fire Put from chamotte brick on the clay and chamotte mixture.

On the long side Bases felt three and a half bricks, on the short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In the height of the laying consists of 35 rows.

Little heating and cooking stove

This is a mini-furnace model for heating and cooking - a comfortable and very compact structure. Optimal square of heated room For minus temperatures - 20-25 square meters.

The device has the following dimensions:

lengthbases (depth) - 64 cm;
width grounds - 51 cm;
height — 215 cm.

The design is elevated in the kitchen. The device includes:

confused;
coaching chamber;
smoke channels leading to chimney;
cooking flooring;
niche for a brass cabinet.

Cooking flooring Cast iron has a hole closing the disc and circle. There are also solid flooring on sale. IN niche for the oven Feature a metal oven or a water tank with a crane. If niche leaves free, it serves to dry things. For the construction of the stove need:

222 pieces of ceramic brick;
colonse (40x25 cm);
door for firebox ( 20x20 cm);
door for pushed ( 14x14 cm);
warmer flooring (35x38 cm);
metal oven or water tank;
iron foremost leaf (50x70 cm);
two doors for clean holes ( 20x14 cm);
two valves;
a piece of flat slate;
steel corner;
clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture For masonry.

Before proceeding with the masonry, preparatory work is carried out. They include the following steps:

choice project;
choice and purchase materials;
metal purchase details of the stove;
preparation tool, the tank for the solution;
preparation places To build a stove;
building mini furnace.

Choosing a project

On the Internet and in textbooks on a chimney there are challenges-drawings of a dozen mini-stoves.

Selection is greatBut if the home master does not have experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built such stoves. Choosing a device that is planned to erect your own hands consider several factors:

area heated premises;
quantity heated rooms;
temperature air in winter;
frequency use heating facility;
purpose mini furnace;
experiencefurnace construction and repair;
material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction, it is very useful to simulate the appearance, sizes and a friend of the future stove.

If planned cook, Preferred will be an option with cooking filling and a brass cabinet. Need in hot water In winter and in the offseason, the water tank will close in a niche. In her, removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things. If there is always an electricity or gas stove in the house, choose the window without hobs and niches for the oven.

For regions where winter temperatures go down below 20 degrees and keeps at this level weeks, suitable large oven oven with thermal screens. Mini stove not recommended Turn continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people matters design Designs. It can be littered with tiles or lay a brick with a relief surface.

Materials

For the chosen project, the mini-furnace will need high-quality brick. Should be chosen smooth brick 1 varietyuniform painting, without chipping and cracks.

For masonry bricks, homemade master without experience, it is better to choose ready mix in a construction store. It is bred according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If the wizard creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay. The ratio of materials is determined by the experimental way. The solution is drawn with a spatula and tilted its working surface. by 45-50 degrees. Masonry mass normal composition Does not fall coming from the spatula and does not flow from it.

Instruments

You will need all the tools of the liver and the table to which you can get up when laying upper rows. In the list Tools include:

spatulas: Wide and narrow:
master OK;
opening for the formation of beautiful seams;
trowel;
a hammer Flat and kirk fader;
kiyanka;
level long construction;
plumb building;
wooden bar for frame;
threads, fishing line, chalk for the markup of the base;
bulgarian with a set of disks for cutting and grinding;
rule Aluminum.

Important! The temperature in the room during furnace laying and drying it should be a plus (from plus 5 degrees).

Need for the preparation of the solution big Buck. Paste need for mixing wooden mixer (paddle) and construction mixer.

Preparation of space for the furnace

Before masonry, a mini-oven prepare in advance foundation. It is necessary, because even the smallest device with a brick tube weighs from 500 kg and more.

Such pressure on the floorboards will lead to the deformation of the floor and the furnace walls. It can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for the construction of foundations. Construction base for a mini-furnace includes next steps:

excavation Kotlovana 50-70 cm deep;
dumbness of the soil in the pit;
laying in the pitting layer of rubble ( 20-25 cm);
laying in the pitted sand ( layer 15-20 cm);
sand and crushed stone;
waterproofing with rubberoid: joints seal by tar, mastic bituminous;
installation of steel reinforcement with cellular diameter no more than 8-10 cm;
pouring concrete and sealing by its vibrate;
laying on a dried concrete of two layers of rubberoid for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is elevated on the foundation, which stands for its perimeter by 10-20 cm. From the side of the furnace it is recommended leave 50-70 cm The foundation to mount the premutoral platform on it.

Masonry coach

The laying of ceramic brick is carried out on the clay and sandy solution on the prepared foundation:

1 and 2 rows. Solid masonry.

Photo 2. The layout scheme of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. Then follows the chimney pipe.

3 row. Lay out the camera for pushed. Install (on wire or metal sheets) the door pissed.
4 row. The masonry continues to strengthen and strengthen its door. The ledge is laid out for a grasp grille.
5 row. On the ledges, free, without a solution, put a grate. Around him leave clauses of 5-7 mm.
6 row. In the portal of the furnace install the fuel door. It is attached by styling in steel wire seams or with steel planks. Planks also fit into the seams per solution.
7-11 rows. Firework laying, final fixing the door laying wire (steel plates) in the seams per solution.

Photo 3. Installation and mounting of doors for firebox and cleaning. With the help of a plumbing is followed by the accuracy of the public.

11a. Upon completion 11 rows Place the metal strip (or corner), to which the cooking flooring will be relying. After that, the cooking flooring is put.
12-15 rows. Walls around the cooking flooring (cooking chamber) are erected, the chimney is laid out from the furnace.
15a. In order for the hob of a non-combustible material over the cooking chamber, a flat slate sheet is put on it.
16 row.The hob of the cooking chamber is closed with solid masonry, they continue to lay the chimney.
17 row. Installing the doors for cleaning the chimney (on wire or steel strips).
18 row. Fastening the door.
19-22 rows. Layout for the selected scheme.
23 row.Laying a niche for the oven.
24 row. Laying of the walls of the brass cabinet, installing the oven. At the bottom of the chamber around the perimeter lay asbestos cardboard bands. The oven is wind asbestos (for more contact with brick masonry and heat accumulation) and finally install in a niche.
24-27 Rows. A brickwork is brought around the oven.
28 row. Installing the second door for cleaning the smoke channel.
29 row. Installing valves over a smoke canal.
30 row. Layout for the selected scheme.
31 row. Installing the second valve over the smoke channel.
32 row. Completion of masonry.

Besides, 32 rows is the basis for erection chimney. It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini stove with decorative trim. The design is not provided for cooking, but it will warm the house well.

Problems in the construction of a mini-furnace with their own hands

Lovers-lovers in inexperience commit errorswhich then lead to problems. Consider the most common cases:

Laying furnaces S. deviation from the project. As a result, there are no normal thrust in the flue channels, the walls are unevenly heated. Solving the problem will be furnace analysis and climb schemework.
Laying furnaces "on the eye", without using the level, frame, plumb, rules. The device is thrown away, the center of gravity is shifting, during operation, the device is quickly crumbling.

Ovens Heating as a method of heating private home ownership is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional binder, many country property owners are forced to develop the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to be stocking appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare the tools and acquire building materials for a significant amount.

Types of stoves

A brick stove with your own hands for the house can be:

russian;
swedish;
dutch.

Also distinguished furnaces:

baths;
garden;
heating;
heating and cooking;
fireplaces.

Russian oven.

Among the liveshiks, it is considered the most multifunctional construct of bricks. It is equipped with a place to relax, called the Lena. Under it, they have a cooking chamber - a firebox or a fool, under which he was pushed. It should ensure continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such brick furnaces for home with their own hands also have a niche for kitchen accessories and storage of cooked food hot.

Standard dimensions of this type of furnace units: in a height of 2 meters, in length is 2.5 meters and a width of 1.5 meters. Due to the impressive sizes, the Russian oven is able to heat the living space, which exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - there is a lot of solid fuel for its functioning.

Swedish stove

Its sizes are more compact compared to the Russian oven. The height of the Swedish structure of the brick is about 2 meters, and the length and width is not more than a meter. This small brick oven is designed:

for heating rooms;
for cooking food.

A cast-iron plate on 2 burners is placed on the furnace of the Swedish unit, and the overall cabinet is located on the side. In the construction of the stove in the kitchen, we build a stove, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious disadvantage of the design is a high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedt stove is supplied with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of furnace aggregates must be owned by Russian cookies, they were them invented. The "Holland" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To completely warm it with its help, the cold room will be required 10 hours.

During the off-season, the Dutch stove with their hands from the brick is capable of holding heat during the day. Its structural device provides high heat transfer due to a winding chimney. In addition, the furnace has a spacious fuel.

"Dutch" is erected only with the use of chimney brick, which accumulates heat quickly, and gives gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to put the furnace and what is needed for this

Having considered the projects of furnaces and making a choice, you can proceed to the next step. In addition to the design design, the chimney design must comply with fire safety requirements, so the stage of preparation for its construction, which implies:

Developing a detailed masonry scheme oven with a slab or without it.
Determination of the construction site.
Choosing materials.
Selection of tools.
Drawing up estimates for construction costs.

In addition to the above events, it is necessary to determine the number of utility workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

From how correctly the project of the house with furnace heating is developed, the final result of construction depends. Now you can not develop schemes - furnace drawings with their own hands, but to purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you must make sure that the numbers specified in it also will not prevent the presence of a phased detailed description of the construction.

When the place of placement of the furnace is chosen, first of all, pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the design of the furnace. Since the process is how to put a brick oven in the country or in the house has many nuances, experienced cooks advise novice crafts to build reduced layouts of future aggregates.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex furnace structures are selected - masonry furnaces with their own hands for inexpressible masters, it may be unbearable. In this case, you should seek help to professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of which type of furnace to be undertaken, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The focus must be given to the selection of bricks.

There are 4 varieties of bricks for the construction of furnace units:

manual molding;
ceramic;
refractory;
silicate.

For facing the unit uses ceramic products. It is desirable to acquire a M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform, the cheaper products. It is able to withstand multiple heating cycles - cooling. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when it is erected by his hands a brick stove for giving or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and different impurities and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for furnace units is normal, skinny or fat. From what kind of variety is chosen, the proportions of the preparation of the solution and the technology of masonry of bricks are dependent. People are preferred to use clay having normal fat.

Preparation of instruments

To make your own hands oven in the country or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools you need:

for trimming bricks - Bulgarian;
for sifting sand - metal sieve with a cell no more than 2 millimeters;
soviet shovel;
to compact the solution - extending;
for masonry mix - Combined Kerma;
perforator plus nozzle-mixer to it;
for cutting bricks - Molotok-Kirk.

Also need to prepare measuring instruments:

roulette at least 5 meters long;
to control the verticality - plumb;
wooden chimney length about meters;
to check the mechanism of laying - the rule (between it and the wall can not be slots);
construction and flexible levels.

Support tools include buckets, capacity, etc.

Foundation for a brick oven

When we put the furnace with your own hands, first of all provide the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof overlapping, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can proceed to the markup of the foundation, which must exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it with the arrangement of a general-friendly basis. To serve the oven for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the basis of home ownership. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of loads.

First, the boothes are poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Pre-put a wooden formwork.

When the base is ready, its upper level should be lower than the floor surface for 19 centimeters. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but carry out the load on the floor of the upper floors. The base will certainly be hydroizing, using rubberoid or only.

Laying brick furnace for home

First of all, you need to study the stove drawings with your hands from the brick. Then the solution is prepared and put the first row with the help of a spatula and a trowel. Often novice homework are confident that the solution should not be "sorry." In fact, on the contrary - the layer thinner, the stronger the brickwork will be.

Work is performed as follows:

One hand hold brick on weight.
Applying light blows, make a mark of the spot.
Holding a brick on weight, perform its sharp and accurate slaughter on the parts according to the stamps.
When you take your hands the furnace on firewood for summer cottages or at home, the first row must be postponed. First, the outer row of bricks are placed, then the middle, and the seams are thoroughly filled with a solution, not allowing the formation of voids.
The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not match. But then the bricks need to break. They are placed chopped side inside the array of construction. This moment is important in the construction of chimney channels and the fuel. The fact is that the chips will be the place where the soot accumulates, littering chimney.

Features of the construction of Arches and Arches do it yourself

When archings and vaults are built, they also use the drawings of a brick furnace with their own hands for giving or other building. Bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual intake, and a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of this overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the hole of the furnace use the "lock" display or laying by the "jumper" method - bricks are installed on a metal corner vertically. Metal product can be changed on a wooden frame.

For the pipe structure, a silicate brick is used, capable of withstanding temperature differences and atmospheric precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic medium formed by contacting smoke and water vapor. It is important that in the chimney there is no irregularities and chips. When the furnace design is ready, after 2 - 3 weeks spend the control furnace.

Large and small furnaces with their own brick hands in private homes are popular. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that he serves dozens of years.

Despite the fact that in very many today are those or other heating systems, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and folk crafts are being developed by all new furnace models, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, the furnace heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it will be able to rescue the owners in different situations. For example, in the fall or in the spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to include autonomous heating, the drowning oven will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them from excessive humidity. The oven will help maintain the optimally favorable atmosphere and the temperature balance, comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query about how to fold the oven with your own hands the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not come down from the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who do not have the experience of the liver, show the desire to try their strength in this craft. If it is decided to install the furnace in the house with its own forces, then beginners it is recommended to choose a simple version of this facility with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, it is designed for heating. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what I would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick stoves

There are several main types of furnaces - some of them perform only one main task - this is heated at home, others are used only for cooking, and the third includes several functions in their "set of features". Therefore, in order to decide on the desired model, you need to know what is each of the species.

The construction is capable of not only to warm one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil the water. If the model is equipped with a brass cabinet and drying niche, then the possibility of bake bread appears, and peel vegetables and fruits for the winter.

The heating and cooking furnace is often embedded in the wall or itself performs the role of the wall - for this it is rotated by a slab and a firebox in the direction of the kitchen, and the back wall in the residential area of \u200b\u200bthe house. You can solve two problems immediately - the heating of the premises and the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, the furnace will work not only as a functional structure, but it will become a decorative decoration of the house.

The heating variety of furnaces is designed only for the heating of the rooms at home. Some models have not only a fiber chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the furnace can function in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are involved both simultaneously. Most often, the heating stoves are embedded in the wall between the rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, separating it into zones.

Such a building is being built for both the main heating of the house and as an additional, which is used in the spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. The heating furnaces are usually established when the kitchen has already implemented its ability to prepare food, or in a large total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, where several furnaces perform various functions.

In the country area in a small house, it is better to establish a multifunctional structure that can help immediately in several situations.

The cooking furnace is erected in the kitchen, and its design is designed for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it and heating capabilities, since its entire body, the rear wall and the cast iron stove are well warmed, giving heat and room.

The main function of this stove - cooking

The cooking furnace is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in the country or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact, but functional unit, one can exclude the risk to frozen or remain without dinner and hot tea, even if the electro- and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be completely miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models before stocking materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw it the base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to install it. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much the free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the furnace?

So that the furnace worked effectively and maximally gave heat into the premises of the house, and was also a fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this moment if the furnace is embedded in the finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling overlap beams, and accidentally do not stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The furnace brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. What place it is better to choose - will be considered further.

To get the maximum effect from the furnace, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool quickly and can hardly be able to heat more than one room.
Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or shifting it from it in one or the other side. This location is selected if the room is required to divide into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure can have a different decorative finish, made in the style corresponding to the design of a particular area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Quite often, the furnace is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the heat generated as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, the ceiling and the attic overlap at the location of the passage
When choosing a place of installation, it is necessary to envisage that each of the sides of the foundation under the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the base of the furnace itself.
To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the furnace, it is recommended to always select the model to which the order scheme is applied.

By choosing and place for its installation, you can acquire all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the furnace model, and masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work it will be necessary to prepare a very "solid" set of tools.

From the tools for masonry brick and fill the foundation, you will need:

Rule - This tool is used to align the surface of the basement with concumen.
Kirk's hammer is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
Veel is a wooden blade, which is used for rubbing the clay and lime solution.
The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and removing the dried, speaking outside the masonry of the solution.
Makeup made of urine is intended to clean the internal furnace channels from sand and solution in them.
The lead drain is needed for marking in the event that the furnace is separated by tiles.
The construction level is necessary to control the levels of rows and the surface of the walls.
The diaper is the rod applied for marking.
The plumb is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
Building corner with a ruler to verify the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
Pliers are used to bend and bite the wire for fixing the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the seams of masonry.
Raspil - This tool is used to remove the influx and wrecking lumps in the dried masonry.
The chisel is used to split the brick and the parsing of old masonry.
The rubber hammer is necessary for the alignment of the brick-labeled solution.
(Trusks) of different sizes are used to apply a solution when laying bricks and removing the mixture speaking from seams.
Fishing - a tool for aligning the solution in the seams of masonry. It is used if the laying is produced "under the extection", without further lining.
Manual tamping will be required to seal the soil and layers of frustration in the pit for the foundation.
Capacities for kneading the solution and pure water.
Sieve with a metal mesh for sand sifting.

Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device has sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the wizard, but also for the installation of a container filled with a solution.

Foundation arrangement for brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually preparing together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so - to be combined into a single design. New foundations, as a rule, give a shrinkage that can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will pull the damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the event of an end of the oven in the already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the furnace will be installed, the floorboards will have to be removed, drinking the hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected furnace model is not too massive, then the design can be erected on it, the material for waterproofing is pre-installed.

The foundation should be in the form of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its parties is made greater than the furnace at 100 ÷ 150 mm.

If the floor in the wooden house, it makes the markup on which the boards will be peeling.
Then in the soil of the sample in the form of the future foundation rotates, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
The bottom of the pit is rambling, and its walls are lined with a polyethylene film or rubberoid.

Then, a sand pillow is 100 ÷ 150 mm thick on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted with a manual tamper.
The next layer, on top of the sand, is falling asleep rubbing, which, too, if possible, is rambling. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
Next, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or rubberoid remain inside it, and then fixed on the walls using a stapler and brackets. This waterproof material will keep the solution flooded into the formwork, not giving to leave it moisture, which will give the plate the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of "clean" floor, that is, the finished base will need to put two rows of bricks so that it rises to the floor with the floor.
Some wizards in order to save brick, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution consists also in a simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor coating.
The next step in the formwork, for its entire height, the reinforcement grille is installed, made of 4 ÷ 6 mm thick with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The bars are associated with a wire twist.
Further, in the lower part of the formwork, a rough concrete solution, mixed from cement and gravel, can be pouring into a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm in the proportions of 1: 3, or cement, rubble of the middle fraction with the addition of sand in a 1: 2 ratio: 1. But, In principle, a conventional concrete solution from sand and cement can be used.
If the coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for its setting, the thinly mixed solution is laid on top.
The flooded is aligned with the rule on the upper facets of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to put and drown on 15 ÷ 20 mm into the solution of the reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

The surface of the foundation is resurrected again, and, if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork, on top of the grid.
Further, the foundation leaves to stick and recruit strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layer of the flooded solution. So that concrete is more durable, recommended daily during the first week, starting from the second day, spray it with water.
From the top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing, consisting of two or three rubber carriad sheets, which are stacked by one to another.

To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make marking on the waterproofing material, denoting the location of the base of the furnace. Due to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to assemble the first row of bricks and observe the solidity of the parties and the corners.

After these preparatory work, you can go to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced masters, starting the laying unfamiliar to this design, first produce it dry, that is, without a solution. This process helps to figure out the intra channels of the furnace and do not make mistakes during the main masonry. Every majority rises dryly, each of the rows should be posted in accordance with the furnace applied to the model.

Performing dry masonry, it is necessary to observe the thickness of horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to withstand the same throughout the masonry, you can use 5 mm thick racks. Of course, the vertical seams will be difficult to measure with small segments of the ridges when drunk dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, the rails need to be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the design, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of using the RESEK, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is performed under the extection, and will not be further separated by additional decorative materials.

Mastering dry, it is important to understand the channel configuration through which the smoke will go from the furnace, and climb the pipe. If, when laying out this passage, an error will be made, you will have to shift a part or even the entire design of the furnace, as the reverse thrust can be formed, and the room smoke will go.

Having lifted the oven dryly before the laying of the chimney pipe, the design disassemble. Moreover, if the ranks used not only as well, but also their small fragments, then when disassembling, each of the rows can be folded in a separate stack, putting a number of rows on one of the bricks. Sometimes, additionally, the brick number is also affixed in each of the ranks. Such a system will accelerate the work, since all the material will be fitted and decomposed in the right order, and will remain only to soak it alternately and put into the ranks of the furnace, but already per solution.

Performing basic masonry, two rails are installed on the edges of the previous series, between which the solution of 60 ÷ 70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is put on it, aligns and embarrassment until it is stored in the rail. It is necessary to have such calibration devices into three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after grapping the solution. So, laying out three rows, the rails pull out of the lowest seam, clean and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no confidence that the vertical seams are the same thickness, for them you can also prepare a short rail, which will be rearranged in the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling out the calibration peeks from the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, which is cleaned by a trowel, and then put in order using the bunch.

Processing of seams "under the extection"

If the calibration rails laid out of both edges of the brick, then the inner side of the wall will also leave the recesses between the seams. They are also needed to carefully close, since the seams should be hermetic, filled with a solution across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, performing masonry on the solution, check each of the placed rows by the construction level so that the entire design does not occur.

Such simple auxiliary devices, as calibration rails, will help perform the masonry gently with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire furnace surface will look like the design is made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout work.

Brick stove construction schemes

O. O. Proskurin with Hepiculture and Hall Functions and Drying Chamber

A model developed by the engineer Y. Solkurin can be called one of the simplest structures of the heating and cooking furnaces, which even a novice master can be mastered. Despite the compact sizes of the structure, the stove is able to fulfill all the functions necessary for a small home, since it is equipped with a hob and a chamber for drying, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water tank.

Such a furnace is able to warm one or two rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b17 ÷ 20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms at home. At the same time, it is definitely necessary to orient in such a way that the design is deployed to the stove toward the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows for the warm season to use only the hob, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full-fledged protostka is 1700 kcal / h.

The following materials will be required to build this heating structure:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry)	281 ÷ 285.	250 × 120 × 65
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-8	82 ÷ 85.	250 × 120 × 65
Opening door	1	210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140.
Door for confused	1	140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney	1	130 × 130.
Flashing	1	130 × 130.
Hob	1	130 × 130.
Colonnik.	1	200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel	1	410 × 340.
Steel band	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310.
Foremost metal sheet	1	500 × 700.

To fill the foundation it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, rubberoid, reinforcement rod or steel wire with a thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber on the hot water tank, you will have to purchase or make it.

So that work has passed successfully, before it began, it is strongly recommended to learn my friend very carefully, and in the process of masonry to keep this scheme is always at hand.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several cuts. Here you can clearly consider how the chimney channels pass inside the design, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney pipe.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration submitted on the scheme. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its proper masonry. The series consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the form of the ash bar is laid (a subpend chamber) and the bottom part of the two channels that will be vertically. Laying the row, leave the openings to install the door of the pensive and the clean cameras. On the same row they are installed. The row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In the cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided in which the harvested segments of the wire are inserted. Further, their ends twist together and fit into the seams between the side walls. To make the door not shifted from the installation site until its fully fixation, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. It raises the walls of the pensive and the cleft chamber, and in the seams between the rows of bricks, the ends of the wire are fixed, with which the doors are fixed. For the masonry of the row, there will be 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The camera of vertical channels is divided into two, as they will be laid out separately. Channel cross-section over their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, this row is overlapping the installed door. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made by refractory chamotted brick, as it is the formation of the lower part of the furnace. In bricks that determine the place of laying a grate grid, from the inner of their edge, is made at right angles. The cutout size should be approximately 10 × 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are stacked above the infideling chamber. For the masonry of the row, 16 chamotte bricks will be required.
	After that, in the fifth row in the prepared deepening in bricks, a grate is established. It is sometimes mounted on a clay solution, but often - completely without a solution. In the latter case, the gaps between the grid and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. The laying is carried out only with chamotte brick. The series consists of 12 chamotte bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, the coil door is mounted, which, as well as confusing, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, the coil door before installation is equipped with not only wire mounts, but also wrapped around the perimeter asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a heat gap, which will allow expanding the metal during its strong heating.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to a co-order scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and the vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the ranks goes firstwarding.
	When laying a ninth row, the door of the furnace chamber overlaps. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, with bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the heat chamber are cut under the same angle of 30˚. These sections will serve as a peculiar stand for the middle brick cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should be perfectly signed between two extreme bricks. 12 chammatory bricks will be required to the row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with an extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace went to this hole. In order to provide the smoothness of the stroke of hot air, on the middle brick, separating the flue hole and the closed channel, the cutting corner is made. For this row, 11 chamotte bricks will be required.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry, going around the heat chamber, is distinguished by the fact that it uses bricks with a cut-out bricks at 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed to lay the cooking panel. For masonry will need 11 chamotte bricks.
	After the 11th row is posted, the step on the bricks will be supplied with asbestos stripes or layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (under the condition of the thickness of the cooking panel in 5 mm). These gaskets will serve as a pillow and a thermal gap for the hob. Then, a cooking panel is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the angular part of the masonry is strengthened with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, the masonry will be made only with red bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and again closes the jumper open earlier vertical channel. For the masonry of this series you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel is formed a place to install a gate, designed to switch the furnace modes to a winter or summer course. To do this, cutches are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sandy solution. The row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	The 14th ÷ 18th row - for each of them it will take 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber overlaps three steel corners, which form the basis for the masonry of the following rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is set at a distance from it in 250 mm (the size of the brick), and the third corner of the back side is pressed to the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it, 12 bricks overlap the cooking chamber, but the hill of the hood of the steam is formed above it, in which the valve will be installed. To install this item in the edges of bricks installed on three sides, cuts are made, and from the external brick is removed by layer, making it thick less. Further on the prepared platform on the clay solution fixes the valve.
	The 20th row is postponed according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is overlapped, and channel holes are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is shy for a smooth flow of heated air. For a number it will take 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and a hole for the vapor chamber pair is combined into the overall space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth care of steam into the chimney pipe. For masonry you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row it is overlapping the resulting space with steel stripes, which will provide the basis for the installation of the metal plate and the masonry of the following rows.
	The next step, which is performed on the same row is the installation of a plate of roofing iron. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located in the opposite side from the window to exit the steam from the hob.
	On the 22nd row of brick masonry, a metal plate is overlapped. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only channel holes remain open. Then, from the outside of the furnace, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front of the bottom of the drying chamber. It will take 15 bricks on the laying of a row.
	The 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its rear wall makes out of the brick installed side - it will separate the camera from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels are formed, as well as the drying chamber.
	The 25th row - the work continues according to the scheme, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, vertical channels are prepared for combining into one space, so for the direction of smoke in the desired direction of bricks in the vertical channels are cut under a small angle. For laying a number, 11 bricks will be required.
	On the 27th row, with a masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a clear door is installed on this general camera. The rear wall of the drying chamber rises another brick, which is installed on the side. The series consists of 11 bricks.
	On a 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, a masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to 27 nearby. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, all practically the area overlaps with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. It is left open only a hole above the drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in sections made on bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making less than its thickness. In the arrangement of the "nest" on the clay solution is installed valve. The series consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely overlaps the surface of the furnace. The exception is only the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half the brick.
	For 31 ÷ 32rd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to produce independently, then work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with full responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to all the recommendations and the provided scheme-co-order, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of masonry a miniature brick furnace for a country house.

Video: Compact brick oven for small kitchen

The construction of complex embodiments of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires tremendous patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, in the presence of funds, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace should explore the advice of specialists in choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict compliance with the masonry scheme will be allowed to obtain a reliable thermal unit and with its further use will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Consequently, any furnace is obliged to meet the basic requirements - do not smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety. Newcomers for construction is better to choose a simple device model to independently carry out high-quality furnace masonry.

Construction tools and equipment

For mounting work uses:

acute and rectangular sledgehamps;
plumb;
brackets (moor);
kelma combined;
a hammer;
tribes;
putty knife;
level, square and roulette;
meter (folding);
suture greens, markups for openings, patterns for channels;
brick and clay (red);
cement;
sand;
cooper
doors, stove (cast iron) and valves;
aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. The first stage.

To make sure the accuracy of the calculations, first perform the masonry on the finished scheme of the unit, but without the use of the mixture. The furnace is attached to the foundation that meets all the rules of technical safety. To do this, dump the pit (depth of 1 m), where sand (layer 11 cm) falls asleep, and the concrete is loaded from above. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the base for the furnace. Using the level, check the horizontal of the masonry. The pair of bricks are wetted with water so that they are easier to be fastened with the solution, put them on the mixture and pressed (slightly), and its excess is removed by the spatula and the further process of the construction continues on the same principle.

On the first level of the steering roar roofing (triple layer), which carries out a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach with special brackets a subductive door for a furnace, wrapped with a wet asbestos cardboard. The third level should consist of chamotte bricks, the grace of grace on the confusion. Laying of building material on the 4th tier occurs on the edge. The chimney is constructed inside the oven. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges moved a little bit from the main row, which will make it easier to cleansing the garbage of the hole for the passage of smoke.

The door for the firebox turns into the asbestos cord and fixes on the 5th tier of bricks (temporarily) and wire. Material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is plastered (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are reheated, the flush is fastened with a grain, and the bricks are placed on the edge. Chimney is recommended to wag a wet cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) lay out the plastics, and on the back wall of the furnace a couple of pieces attached to the edge. The eighth tier of the masonry is covered with a flue door.

2. The second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues on the finished scheme before the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier on the solution (with a minor displacement of back), the plate of cast iron is mounted (with a masonry perimeter, the cord is passed from asbestos, which is covered with corners from above. Supports of bends create strips of steel, inserted into the walls of the camera for cooking and reinforced from the fourteenth row, through 2 subsequent, to twentieth. This tier is placed: corner, frame and exhaust channel from sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between it is plated and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. Third stage.

After making with their own hands, the thermal unit is cleaned by chimney, temporary bricks are removed and painting works begin. The furnace surface is dried before performing shockting and lime blots. As a coating, a mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of composition is applied to the outer side of the masonry, and after drying it is more dense. White oven lime mortar with salt. Olife or oil dyes for coating masonry are not suitable, as when heated, they highlight harmful pairs for health.

1. When building a furnace, durable and properly buried bricks should be applied with their own hands, with a flat surface and without various damage, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, with the help of a hammer, it is necessary to split one brick if it disintegrates into large pieces, it means that it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the zone where the fire is divorced, a refractory appearance, withstanding strong heating, is used.

2. The reliability of the oven design depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. Qualitative is the composition with plastic and thick consistency.

3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared recesses in bricks intended for the installation of perfume, dampers and doors provide the last longer work. The depth of the grooves must match the casting thickness.

5. Bricks on masonry tiers have as close as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedures of the action are constantly checked with the finished scheme of the device, which allows you to control its accurate observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by setting the implex leaf of iron or plinth. To protect the corners of the design from possible damage, the frames are advised to attach protective devices (using bolts).

7. Bring out operation is permissible 14 days after the completion of the installation work. Hardening an aggregate is recommended to start burning thin sins to prevent its cracking. After the end of the furnace process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed using valves.

Cost of materials and wages

An independent construction of the furnace costs much cheaper, compared with the services of a qualified employee. The minimum price for the work of the masters begins with 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding the contract. Payment of work and the cost of masonry for various types of furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and locations in the house. The procurement price of the building material and its amount required for the construction of the selected type of construction, design and color solution are the main indicators in determining the final payment. The types of facing are also played. Finishing with tiles costs 1200-2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount of equipment for masonry).

The average cost of building accessories:

The cost of brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per 1 piece. The difference in rates is present and when buying casting and other materials for masonry. If the door for the furnace of Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag of finished mixture for erection of the furnace (consumption of 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of the masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, removing all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to acquire additional equipment. Expenditures also take into account the cost of shipping and unloading materials for masonry, which is assigned by carriers.

Articles

The problem of heating of dacha and country houses is associated with the lack of central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already managed to be disappointed in metal bourgearies, but a small stove of bricks - with their own hands built - gives comfort and warmth that cannot but rejoice.

Brick furnaces for country houses

Benefits

In the past two or three decades, modern metal furnaces took an indisputable monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:

Comparative cheap compared to;
Ease of installation and installation;
Sliding deadlines for the installation of the heating device at the end of use;
The manufacturer declared high performance coefficient and fire savings;
The seeming complexity of the construction of a brick furnace and the difficulties associated with finding a decent specialist in this area, fear of independent construction such a monumental object;
The lack of the need for complex work with the roof when installing the chimney pipe;
Relative compactness, which is important for the country house;
Advertising campaign of metal furnace manufacturers, approving their indisputable advantages.

However, it is worth the owner of the metallic device once to be indoors equipped with a stone stove, his views change dramatically.

It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such a stove is incomparably comfortable and more pleasant. In the room it is easy to breathe, it is a pleasant smell, a special atmosphere and comfort.

Also different food cooked in a stone furnace. Special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the effect of the oven gives it a unique taste and aroma.

In addition, there are many data on some therapeutic properties of thermal radiation emanating precisely from the warm clay, heated to 70 to 75 ° C. We will not go into the debris of physics and biology, we note the fact itself.

So, the advantages of a brick oven collected into a single list:

Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to protrude such a furnace once, and it will take a long time to give heat into the room. Even in severe frosts, the amount of furnaces does not exceed two per day;
The oven does not overheat from the outside, and it is impossible to burn it about it, which is extremely important for families with young children;
The furnace does not dry the air as metal analogues do;
The thermal radiation is much softer, not so aggressive and severe, both from steel and cast iron surfaces;
Food consumption is less (controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
Incomparably longer service life;
The smallest brick oven creates more comfort and comfort than the largest metal;
Easily allows you to heat large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, warm water will always be;
In the oven and furnace you can burn a large amount of bread and other flour products, as well as cook porridges and other dishes;
Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, create an inexplicable comfort and a special entourage indoors.

Tip! Any heating device on firewood is a potential source of danger, so it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, it is not necessary to take for complex large ovens, but little brick oven do it yourself- quite real option.

Naturally, there is nothing perfect and absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating devices.

disadvantages

Since we have listed the advantages of brick stoves, let's be fair and remember about the disadvantages. We do not conduct an advertising campaign, therefore not worrying objective estimates.

So, among the shortcomings of stone stoves, you can list the following features:

A very time-consuming structure, especially for a person who has no experience in the construction of such products;
A fairly costly event, especially if you attract an experienced Master-kindergarten, the price of effort and skills of these guys are definitely high;
There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and the alteration of a stone monolithic structure, as you understand, the occupation is not the simplest;
The danger of operation of a faulty or incorrectly constructed furnace is associated with carbon monoxide poisoning, which can lead to very sad consequences;
Requires more space in the house than a metal analogue, although today there are more and more projects of small stoves, which this deficiency is practically levied;
High inertia is associated with rather long warming and extract, so in order to properly protruding the room, may take several hours.

Tip! If you use the Cottage for rare raids for a day or two in the warm season, however, and in the cold too, then you do not make sense to try the construction of a brick oven, as the heating will take from three hours, and in the meantime you are already taking place back. The brick oven is needed to people who love a country rest and allow themselves to spend on the country long winter weeks.

Here the question of appointment of the furnace is faced. Obviously, the stoves are different, both in design, and size, and functions.

Purchase destination

Another important point is the correct choice of configuration, design and assignment of the stove. Since we are talking about the dacha, it follows from the requirements of temporary country housing.

There are four main types of furnaces in general:

Heating;
Cooking;
Baths;
Mixed.

Strictly speaking, bath furnaces can be attributed to the specialized meaning of heating devices. But we will not deepen in the subtleties of the classification, since the occupation is, in general, it is useless.

Let's just say that for the cottage I would like to have a mixed type - something like, as it is irrational from the point of view of saving space.

Therefore, it is possible to voice the requirements for a dacha brick furnace based on the foregoing:

Simplicity of design so that you can put the construction with your own hands;
Compact sizes, this is a cottage, not a lock or residence;
Multifunctionality, that is, a mixed type furnace, with which you can cook food, heat the water and warm the house.

Construction of a country brick furnace

We will need a clay-sandy solution, a building brick (double silicate brick M 150 not suitable, need clay), trunk, bucket, trough for kneading, plumb, level, asbestos cord, chamotte brick, doors, valves and other furnishings, steel galvanized Wire, hammer with pickaxe, Bulgarian with a disc on concrete.

The furnace will take 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without the foundation. If you have a weak floor, then it is better to make a screed for masonry.

So, laying a small country stove along the steps:

On the selected place the place to put rubregaoid or pergamine size 530 × 780 mm for waterproofing;
From above smear sand with a thickness of one centimeter and recall;
According to Scheme No. 1 (drawing at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks, without fastening, and align it using a level;

We apply a thin layer of the clay solution. We take a pensive door, wind the dual layer of asbestos cord and fix the twisted wire.
Lay out the second row of bricks.

We take chammatory brick and lay out the third row. After its formation, we establish a grate grid. Observe the gaps on the temperature expansion of materials up to 1 cm.

Brick installed on the edge, lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney canal make a stand for the inner partition. "Hosted bricks" of the rear wall laying without clay with a slight protrusion outside.
We establish a flue door wrapped by asbestos. Confirm with twisted wire and temporarily fix two bricks: one put the back on the ass, the other on it and the door on top.

We lay out the fifth row plastics along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. Smoking walls wear a wet rag.

The seventh row put the plastics from three-quad (3/4 of the whole brick cut off with a grinder) for a bundle with the eighth side. Rear wall again on the edge.

Eighth, close by closing the fiber door with two bricks over it. Over the furnace we install the bevelled brick for centering the flame under the burner.

The ninth row put on the offset back (small) to maintain an open door. Before masonry, lay a wet asbestos cord for sealing of brick and hob joints.
The tenth begins the formation of a chimney pipe, which will gradually expand back. The pipe will make an appropriate, so as not to shift the center of gravity of the design, or a light iron nozzle.

In the eleventh row, we laid the valve, weave its asbestos cord, an incelave clay.

Next is the smoke trumpet in the chimek, which is joined with a metal light tube.

Now we take out the elevation of bricks and clean the lower part of the chimney from the garbage.

We close the gap between the first round of the brick and the floor of the metal M-shaped sleeve and nail the plinth.
We blele the furnace or cover it with a stove varnish, we seal all the joints between the metal and brick. Metal parts can be painted with black refractory paint.

We make a test tube with paper and small branches, then give 2 weeks to dry.

As you can see, all manipulations are not so difficult to produce yourself. Material and labor costs are relatively small, the site does not occupy a lot.

At the same time, we got a warm-cooking device, which perfectly protrudes a small country house, will give your streaming the unique taste and aroma of smoke, will create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.

Tip! If you can invite a little more experienced in a person's oversee, at least as a consultant, use it enough, as it is difficult to build a book on the book, it is better to see once.

Output

Brick stoves are considered cumbersome, expensive and complex in construction. However, it is easy to verify specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and you can build an inexpensive compact dacha brick stove, and independently.

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.