How to paint the model of the tank well as a good brush. Painting plastic models acrylic paints. How to choose a way to paint

Preface
In general, I started writing this text before finally formed a more or less accurate opinion about the various colors and methods for applying to the model. Therefore, first will be a little verbalia, which is also desirable to read, because in it there is a little instructive.

So, at the end of 2013, carried away by modelism, and realizing that I just don't want to buy an airbrush, but I wish (with a small fraction of masochism) try to learn how to paint without him, I just went to the store "World of Models", bought what There was, namely the enamel "Tamia". And then in "Stationery" took a Chinese set of 10-charts for 65 rubles, and began to work. Of course, before that, I, first, tried something to read ... But it seemed to me that everything was so simple that it was not worth and bother to collect information on the question of interest.
In short, I began to paint and I did not succeed. In the sense - at all.
It discouraged me. But not so much.

Small retreat
The fact is that in the childhood, many people said that I could draw, and I need to go to study at art school. But I did not want to go to the art. It was enough for me that I could draw a female figure with a simple pencil (simplified and without explicit naturalism), well, something else ... for the mood ... the whole salt here is that I only painted a pencil. Simple. Since I never had any paints. And here life has collided me again with paints ...

I realized that I do something wrong, I decided to read yet.
And if you think that the Internet is filled with information about the technique of painting with a brush, then you are deeply mistaken.
Basically, all the answers to questions from the series "How to learn to paint with a brush?", Have one meaning - "Nafig you, better buy an airbrush!". True, some interlocutors remembered the legends about certain masters of the brushes, which painted with brushes better than the airbrush, but this was usually ended.

Nevertheless, I started a notebook, where all the interesting things and fineness of models began to write, including about the methods and techniques of painting with a brush. Sometimes consumed methods sometimes differed drastically, and only then I realized that the real painting with a brush is not just a "painting with a brush"! This is a process with a bunch of subtleties and nuances, and even somewhere - art.

And once in search of a video painting with a brush (by the way - absolutely unsuccessful) I came across the video painting with the help of a conventional kitchen sponge. It inspired me. And it was noted that the author of the video lesson painted tank! (By the way, I was built by airplanes, and this, as you understand, a little different) it was a chance to start painting not tormenting with the development of these sticks with a bunch of hair at the end (that is, the brushes)!

I want to say that I was waiting for another ambush on my path, which is better to say right away.
This ambush is impatient.
Without waiting for the drying of the applied paint layer, I started to put the next layer, and immediately spoil the previous one. And here it absolutely does not matter than to paint and how ... if you have not sustained the necessary (for drying or polymerization) for a certain paint and the method of application), most likely everyone will have to start first.
Do you think for what I write it all? Yes, in order to at least somehow take yourself, while the next layer of paint is dry on the model!

In general, after the first sponge-appointed layer she (sponge) I liked it. The most important thing is that it did not have terrible stripes and hair, like from the brush. But she had other disadvantages. The most important disadvantage that will interfere even when you get a hand in the package of paint with a sponge, it is a big difficulty in the proxim of small shorts and other places where the sponge simply does not break. Well, and some "coarseness" of the applied layer, even with well-dated paint.
It was this "coarseness," it was advocated to try to use a softer and less "pupyr" sponge instead of the sponge (which women are used to apply cosmetics). But he also turned out his disadvantages - he is either immediately clogged with paint and ceases to be a "sponge" or, under certain conditions, it begins to "stick out" to the surface and drag behind him already cut paint. In this case, the result is terrible, especially if it happened on the last layers or on the exterior of the exterior surfaces.

Having at the very beginning of its path a completely small range of species and producers of paints, I tried to paint "manually" (brush and sponge) by the enamels of the company Tamiya (Tamiya). And although these models still like me, but I confess that they are terribly painted.

Then I found and read a wonderful article. "ABC acrylic" (Walt Fink (Walt Fink) Fine Scale Magazin 09 2001) After that, quite fruitfully trained to paint acrylic in different ways and with different diluents (the article itself can be read or download in PDF format for this link). I used acrylic paints from the same "Tamiya". The training was held on the next "cat", which did not become a model - on the "Harricsein" in a 48th scale from the infamous firm "Ark". All these experiments with me were described here in LJ in "Learn to paint without an airbrush. Acrylic" Tamiya "(Tamiya). First experience." (link to PDF file).

But in spite of the experience gained, it was not possible to paint the next model (Yak-1) normally (Yak-1).
Although I painted it most successful (judging by the experiments) in the way.

After that, I sat down again for the textbooks ... I began to search for information about painting with a brush on the network.
And the search was crowned with success - a wonderful article was found. "Our tassel"written by Maxima Label and published in the magazine "M-Hobby" (reference to PDF). And I inspired again - here it is! Deciding Immediately try the received recommendations, I again went to buy paint (which I have been abused by this time). This time it was the enamel "Revel" (Revell). I started painting another "cat" (R-40 "Tomahawk") read in the article in the way, and again I did not work.
No, something went better than enamels from "Tamiya", but it was still bad ... Now I understand that the enamel "Revelly" will dry for a very long time (even the day for one layer will be little), and the main problems of I was because of this.

In parallel, I built a "focus" (FW-190A), which was trying to paint the same as "Tomahawk", but enamel from Tamiya.
After five layers of paint, I still erased, and "I consulted with the comrades" began to repaint "focus" acrylic, trying to combine painting style everything I read before.
"And then I was flooded!" (from)
Although at painting, I continued to kosych, but it was no longer a coloring method, but to my curves hands.

Therefore, at this stage of my research, I was able to scream as cat Matroskin - "Zarled !!!" - And began to hone out his skills ...

And now I will write, for what, in fact, all this was written - my modest view according to ways of painting models without an airbrush. Moreover, this article discusses exclusively technology for applying a base color. Everything else - Moting, Obagading, Composition and other perversions is a completely different story ...

So let's go!

Below I offer you an option to paint the surface of the model with the use of brushes to which I came long by trial and the errors described above, and which I use it now.

Immediately I want to clarify that for applying basic color I use exclusively Acrylic paints and varnishes of the company "Tamiya" ("Tamiya"). And as a diluent, ordinary vodka (the cheapest) is used to this day.

Separately, I want to say about the brushes ...
Paint brushes are mainly flat, synthetic. Their size, depending on the surface, fluctuates from No. 2 to No. 8. And for the application of varnish - up to No. 16. I also note that the brush is better to buy in specialized stores, as the cheap brush will spoil all your work, no matter how you do not tried. I buy brushes in the store "Leonardo" from "Gamma" (Series "Gallery"), "Mr.Painter" and "Colonsky Sable". Or other good manufacturers.

Well, actually a little technology ...

1. A acrylic layers on vodka I impose with a rather small interval - sometimes less than a minute.
This is possible due to the properties of the diluent - vodka evaporates quickly, and as soon as the paint ceases to glisten, you can safely paint the following layer. And it is better to make a semi-dry brush and, no matter how hard it is not yet angry. Note:In this case, the paint should be sufficiently liquid - I interfere with one part of the paint at least (!) Three parts of vodka. But more often launched more - 1: 5. Layers I do not consider and their number is determined visually on the quality of the resulting coating. If the paint is divorced pretty liquid and in itself it is transparent (for example white), then the layers can be 10-15 ... And if the paint is divorced a little bit thick, and shelter is good (for example, silver), then the layers can be 2-3.

2. If the lacquer, which will be covered with paint, also acrylic, then impose it (also brush) better minimum A day. Otherwise, there is a high probability to lubricate not yet to the end of the dried paint. I lacquer laughing as well as paint, but after applying I do not care, but I give dry yourself.

3. Polish felt acrylic paint (which sometimes I do to determine the quality of the color and correcting some small coating defects) can already be somewhere after 15-20 minutes after the layer is applied. I usually spend felt on the surface somewhere in the middle of work, and, if necessary, at the end of painting.

ATTENTION!
1. Acrylic paint from "Tamiya" is washed off by soap solution ( !!! ) And very good! Therefore, before applying varnish (preferably enamel) no water procedures. Otherwise you have to paint everything again.
2. All of the above is written on the basis of my personal experience and skills. And if you suddenly did not work out - no need to assume that I deceived you somewhere.

Good luck !!!

P.S. Almost all my works (painted exclusively with tassels) you can look at the project Karopka.ru, going to my page here on this

30.06.2016

Painting the airbrush models can wear both auxiliary character in the form of a janning of the base and the performance of the detail without the use of the brush. You can also apply soil and lacquer and dirt and mud can also be "airbrush", it frees from the sublists and irregularities of the imposition of paint, material overruns, also makes the work much more thin and easy. Perhaps the main advantage of airbrushing is to create smooth color transitions.

If an advanced modelist goes on and does not stop at the level of drilling the base of the airbrush, all the light, glare, points and minor parts can be drawn with an airbrush. However, the instrument accuracy in this case should be above the level. Like the masterfulness of the author.

Preparation of model to painting

As with any work with plastic or on metal, the surface must be prepared before painting:

• matting - the formation of clutch by applying the smallest sanding abrasives with the value of grain 1500 or 2000;
• degreasing - before applying the picture you need to degrease the surface with a universalantisilicone cleaner and special napkins for degreasing because Possible touching with their hands to the surface or other ways to fall into her fat;
• printing - applied after the surface will acquire a smooth matte shade without irregularities, perhaps even in several layers.

Painting airbrushing models - applying the base

The base is applied on top of the soil with repeating movements in layers in thin deposition. That is, you need to press the airbreaker trigger with each wave of the hand, opening the way the air flow and pressing the air valve, and then remove the lever on yourself, giving out the paint output.

If you simply press the trigger down and back and led back and forth near the surface, the paint will fall with air bubbles and fights, forming "shagren." Therefore, when applying the base layer, it is not worth a hurry, it is better to work fine and layerly. You can immediately expose accents on lightning, based on the logic, from where the light is dropped, where it will be denser and darker.

Those areas that need to paint in different color and protect against possible pollinal, can be covered with a camouflage ribbon or a very thin vinyl contour ribbon.

Features of working with acrylic paints

When painting the airbrush models matters quality of paint, its shelterness, dispersion and other properties. Among the paints for models, enamels and paints on a water-acrylic basis are distinguished. Enamels have several advantages:

• metallic look more realistic;
• transparent enamels are able to create a Candy effect, as on real cars, if the task is required;
• all enamels fall and fixed on the surface better than acrylic.

Painting models acrylic paints is overwhelming due to the fact that all enamel advantages are usually crossed at home with a rather caustic smell. Possessing a wide palette in rules, with a water-acrylic ruler there may be problems with breeding in newcomers in models. Especially with the small course of the trigger on the needle, the particles acrylic quickly frozen and quickly clog the nozzle, so it is better to breed the paint to the state of "milk". As a diluent, you can use vodka or corporate diluent from the manufacturer (Airbrush Thinner). If, after the dilution, the paint continues to score thin nozzles with a diameter of 0.15-0.2mm, dried retarder can help - Retarder Medium.

When choosing the desired airbrush, you can rely on the following rule:

• 0.15-0.3 mm - drawing camouflage airbrush and other subtleties by the method of "free" hand;
• 0.35-0.5 mm - applying the base layer, primer and varnishing model. Therefore, an airbrush with a narrower nozzle is extremely inconvenient to breed the soils and varnishes, always more dense consistency.

Especially relevant, the problem of density and possible sticking on the needle stands in painting models acrylic paints. And when breeding, they can lose their original qualities. Also, the soil may be large, form a hard film on a thin diameter.

After painting the airbrush models and the completion of working with acrylic rules, it is necessary to drain high quality tool with the same vodka or alcohol, if the case has already been running and remained dyed particles of dried paint, wash and wash their pusher, wash fluid will help.

If after the stage of painting models, the airbrush is scored, video on the role and collection before the last bolt will save on the possible breakdown of spare parts. Although it is better not to bring to the capital blockage and blow the tool immediately after working with alcohol or flushing.

Prayes tank airbrush

It is almost impossible to get a homogeneous paint with paint with paint, the level is almost impossible, the level neatly for such works can be used. For a number of paints, it is possible to apply an airbrush exclusively. Camouflage bands on the tank are drawn on a small distance from 1.2 to 1.4 bar. The thinner it is required to create a line, the less you need to press the airbrome trigger and closer to the surface to draw, with the thickness in the hair, you can even remove the needle's protective cap, making the performance of the "open" needle using the Aerographer. The airbust nozzle is better to keep the normal surface to the surface so that the edges of the camouflage are not created too blurry. When painting a model of a tank with an airbrush, the tool cannot be kept in one place near the surface, it is better to make movements along the contour of the model.

As a rule, in annotations to the model are accurate colors with paint numbers under each manufacturer. It is possible to rely on this by selecting the desired colors or simply choose similar analogues and disconnect.

The Affective Act - Based on the model scaling: Pretty far objects are like light air thickness, which are located under the blue light filter. We multiply the number of meters through which we are watching the model and we see it entirely on the scale. All colors obtained are all colors.

Washing, special effects, decals and other tricks of models

You can manifest additional volume using the correct completed model toning, i.e. Emphasing the relief and surface textures due to darkening of recesses and highlights highlights of the upper parts. Washing - These are liquid diluted paints with a reduced pigment content, which is pumped in recesses and rays. When the wash dries, the surplus is cleaned with a cotton disk. It is important to pay attention to the chemical composition of the washes that can contain solvents and affect the acrylic painted surface layer.

Dry Brush Method - Light pigment or slowly drying paint rubs into a basic coating on the brightest areas. The brush should carry a minimum of the coloring effect, so it should be turned off initially to dryness.

Decal - Methods of applying translation images, most often used to transfer symbols or attributes in various types of troops in models. Deal may look with a fallen tint due to the fact that the remains of air bubbles accumulate between the decal and the model. Most often it occurs when weaning the model of a matte varnish. Therefore, there is a disposition of places allocated under decali, covering separately glossy varnish. General alignment can be done by blurring the surface with the final layer of matte varnish.

Effects of dirt and flows

Tank, being part of military equipment, is subject to the effect of corrosion, is constantly in dirt and oil drifts. Over time, the effect of "weathered" paint from the surface occurs.

Painting the model of the tank airbrush stages:

• coating the model of the tank is the main color;
• the lifting of the most driving surfaces of the model with paint for several tones is lighter than basic;
• in life after a short exploitation around the most speaker points on the details of the tank, a dark film of dirt and inclusions is formed, which accumulates in all deepening models. It is necessary to realistically reproduce these moments, which will help the black wash. Also with her it will be possible to cut dark and bright transitions. Black bow highlights small details of the tank - welding seams, bolts and rivets, etc.;
• pressing the gloss of the surface - gloss makes the protruding parts even more speakers and makes the surface similar to the type of painted steel instead of plastic. You can add glossy varnish into a mixture to paint, and blend over the paint;
• The bottom of the casing of the tank can be covered with the effect of the imitation of the Earth.

Weathered -the effect that gives any military technique more realism. With the right execution, it helps to hide the "kosyachki" of the paint, with an imperative handling or to relieve the appearance of the work and negates the result of the first stages of the color. Also, weathelation focuses on small details of the model. To impart realism, when weathered, the modelist must reproduce for itself the conditions in which the technique (climatic and natural corrosion, historical and military) were provided.

Weathered stages:

• imitation scratches and chips on the surface -hand-made wear with a piece of a spruce with a small bend at the tip. Then, on all the faces and corners, models are applied to paint, better on an oil basis. The amount and depth of scratches and chipping depends on the prehistory of the model of the tank, based on the historical context or personally invented the theme. However, the protruding elements of the scraps should be much stronger than the top of the body and the tank tower. For greater realism, in addition to the faces, scratch it easy, as a continuation of traces, and the surface is near.It is better not to forget about scratches that are applied along the housing, tumor elements that manifest themselves from the passage of obstacles and davalov. At the end of this stage, after a solid drying, it is possible to walk in the center of scratches and cracks with a black stylist pencil, but selectively, and not for all.
• imitation of dirt and dust -many models usually simply take a filtered land, moss and water-acrylic paints with shades of the Earth, interfere with the PVA and water and apply to the model. Then follows drying length per day. The dirt is logical to apply the housing and caterpillar elements. The main thing is not to overdo it.
• washing -the washes superimposed in several layers helps to achieve a more realistic effect. The model is covered with a brush with a thin layer. The movements of the brush go in one direction: on vertical and inclined - from top to bottom, on horizontal - from the center to the edge. After applying the first layer of washing, you can take a brush to the sewn and work out flat surfaces, and not just to check it in the recess and depressions. After a short burnt, 10-15 minutes can be brushed to remove excess washouts. You can also complete this stage by the third layer at the bottom of the housing.
• oswieetleeni. e. - bristles brushes with value number 00 cropped up, then the color of the color of light earth is applied to it, then wipes the napkin. And the method of "dry" brush to go along the bottom of the case.
• fresh dirt and caterpillage installation.
  
  

PRIMER. Grounded brush from jar, white paint. I decided to try for the first time without a special soil, because of the toxicity of soil-spray and intolerance to me such chemical smells. About the primer with a spray is very well written here [link] And we will still talk about the primer with a brush.

Unlike the spray, grinding the brush is longer and harder.
- It does not hold so hard as spray.
+ faster dries (1 hour), spray - day
+ non-toxic (spray it is better to use not in the room)

The main thing is to determine the consistency of paint, which is primer. It should not be too liquid, so as not to spread over the plastic, but not too thick, otherwise it will fall too thick layer, and as you know, the thick layers are subsequently twisted))). So, the brush must be dipped into a jar with water, pressing well, and take a little paint to the tip of the brush. Paint from the jar is better to immediately cast a little bit somewhere, to the cardboard or on the cover, and the jar is tightly closed so that all the paint does not dry.
I prefer to be grined with white - it can see all flaws and unnecessary places, but it is easier to grind black.
Further drive a brush on the figure, look - if the paint is bubble, rolls on the plastic in the droplets and poorly paints - it means there is a lot of water, you need to press a brush. If it falls on plastic, but not too rolls, and it does not cover it with a thick, middle layer - then the consistency is chosen correctly. Kras and do not worry, if you need, "driving" paint with a brushes back and forth for the most uniform distribution. Particularly follow the deepening - the paint loves to pour into thick layers and bubble). For this, washed, pressed with a brush, its tip, we carry out additionally on the deepening to remove the surplus of the paint.
The most basic task of primer (and the most difficult) - put the paint as evenly possible. There's already .. depends on your patience and diligence. But prepare for the fact that at first the color of the plastic still sticks out through the layer of primer - this is a normal phenomenon and should not disturb you. Worse, if the plastic does not stick - this will mean that the primer layer is too large, and perhaps even slightly changes the relief of the figure. Ideally, there should be a single-layer, thin, uniform coating (see photo 1).
If you are painting a lot of figures, it is certainly better to use a special spray for primer.

PAINTING. After the primer, we can proceed to the long-awaited painting. And God forbid you, friends, at this stage will shift, like me, and neglect the Dryibrash method, then you mean a dry brush that the technologist has writes so insistently in its instructions. In general, I decided that I was the smartest, and the usual moistened brush began to apply paint. As a result, he received the effect of "smear", as in watercolor children's albums. At least with the paint "Star" I had so. Then I pressed a brush, and then painted only with a dry tassel, taking a little paint at her tip. When the dribsh is best to take a little paint brush, but often. Because I remember the artistic principle - the paint in general, "put", and do not smear over the surface. After all, in the end, we want to get a spectacular, pouring the paint figure, as if from the store, not the work of the children's artistic creativity of the preparatory group. It noticed that the relief area on the plastic is painted better than smooth.
To begin with, at least 2 brushes - let's say a triple, and a thin unit.
So - we wat the brush only once, first, we press very well, and then you can paint when it is necessary to make the brush tip in the paint. Praying layers - carefully impose each layer - first the main color (or 2 is the most in the color solving the figurines). Small details still paint the primary color - we will highlight them after. (See photo 2). With each layer, paint the larger details first and leave the last minute. In total, you must have at least 3-4 layers of paint on the figure (although experts sometimes bring up to 10). When the colors are applied, we go from darker shades to light.
When the basic layers of colors are superimposed (between them, the figure must be sinking), paint small parts with a thinner tassel (see photo 3,4).
If you do everything right, the drive method is not afraid, the paint falls quite smoothly and there should be no problems, do not be afraid to put the smears, you yourself feel in the process, as you better do it.
Face and hands advise to paint the last place (for maximum accuracy and avoiding stains). (See photo 5).
Also, quite often you will have to mix paint, somewhere in a separate container - with the help of mixing, you can achieve the necessary shades that are not in the palette. For a start, you can completely do the basic palette, say 6-7 onowing colors. Weapons and armor is better to make paint "Metallic".

Fastening. After dyeing, paint on the figure is best to fix special varnish.

One of the important roles when designing prefabricated aircraft models is its painting. Sometimes for some scale of models, for example, 1:72, 1: 100, 1: 144, painting occupies a major role and here the most important thing is to make the right selection of paints and their qualitatively, it depends on this, you will emphasize the advantage of the model or not. In this article you will learn about the basic technologies of painting.

Consider two basic methods of painting team models of aircraft: painting with brush and staining with a sprayer (airbrush).

Brush staining

This method is considered the easiest and most affected by each, both beginners and experienced modelmers.

Paints

The most common type of paints is nitrocracy. But this paint has one big drawback - this is a very sharp and unpleasant smell. Such paints are suitable for work premises with good hood.

Optimal paint for staining of plastic models is alkyd enamel. These enamels have a good texture, they are evenly distributed with a thin layer, giving the surface of the model of the aircraft glitter, and also have a weakly expressed smell. Drying time of such enamels ranges from 6 to 12 hours, this factor depends on the thickness of the coating and the surrounding temperature. To create a different palette, the necessary shades, you should stock the main six colors: white, black, red, yellow, silver and blue.

Pussy

Now consider the question, what brushes should be purchased for staining of aircraft models? Various brushes need: large, small, thin, round, flat. Here the choice depends on the model you will be painted, i.e. The smaller the model, the smaller size it is necessary to choose the brush and, accordingly, on the contrary.

It is necessary to choose a brush with even bristles, semi-rigid, hair (for example, sable, badger, squirrels).

After each use, the brush is cleaned with a solution for paint, washed thoroughly with water and dried.

And we turn to the process of writing the aircraft models.

1. Preparation of model for staining. To do this, wash the model in warm soapy water with a toothbrush to remove the bold layer. Then we carefully dry the model, for this we leave it out of the reach of it to minimize dust and dirt entering it. Either use a special degreaser.

2. Primer. Before applying paint on the surface of the aircraft, the model should be processed by primer. This is done to align the various types of irregularities on the surface of the model, as well as in order to do with the time, your paint has not penetrated from the aircraft. On the model, the soil should be applied evenly.

If there are still some irregularities after the primer, and they do not suit you, it should be grinding. Grinding the aircraft model follows the smallest skins to avoid traces from the skin.

Then we repeat the primer process. Soil should choose bright tones - white or gray.

3. Coloring. If, after the primer and grinding the model of the aircraft, everything suits you, the surface is smooth, without picking and slots, then you can safely move on to the staining process. One of the main rules for applying paints on the model is that it is first to apply light tones and then dark. First of all, the lower parts of the model should be colored, then the upper one. The upper parts of the model are scoring only after the bottom is finally dried.

To achieve a smooth layer, when applied, paint should work only in one direction.

In order not to be traces from the brush strokes, you should dilute the paint, so that it becomes more liquid and apply 2 - 3 layers on the model of the aircraft. It should be mentioned that each subsequent layer of paint should be applied to the dried previous one.

4. At the end of the staining, we leave the model of the aircraft to dry.

Aerograph staining

Airbrush is a tool designed to spray with liquid paint with compressed air on various surfaces.

Before starting staining of the aircraft models, it is important to adjust the level of paint in such a way that the samples are not formed on the stainable subject. If you use an airbrush for the first time, before painting on the self-made model of the aircraft to try the capabilities of the airbrush on any other, not necessary, parts of the plastic.

To comply with security measures, when using an airbrush, use gloves and respirator.

So, here are the basic principles of painting the aircraft aircraft model:

• Before the painting model must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
• Then the surface should be treated with emery paper.
• The next stage is degreasing and drying the product.

4. After complete drying, it is necessary to handle the model of the primer and if you need to abandon again.

5. When staining the entire model of the aircraft, you should take a tape or painting ribbon of mirrors, headlights, glasses, chassis, etc. Paint is applied in one direction. Apply one layer of paint to the model of the aircraft. Let us dry for a few minutes, and then apply the next layer. After that, we give paint to dry finally, we leave for 2 to 3 hours. Then proceed to the color of the remaining parts of the aircraft.

6. Complex drawings should be performed using stencils. At the same time it is necessary to take into account that with each subsequent layer of paint, we use a new stencil.

7. After completing work on staining, it should be disassembled and rinse the airbrush thoroughly.

Summing up this article, I want to say that it will come to high quality to you with experience. Performing this work should be patient, perfected and neat - and the result will pleasantly please!