Learning to paint without an airbrush. Continuation of the conversation. How to paint prefabricated models of tanks, ships, planes, cars and other equipment Is it possible to paint aircraft models with aerosol acrylic paint

Collections of prefabricated models are a whole miniature world. Small, so detailed and realistically executed copies of military, and not only, equipment - planes, ships, cars, motorcycles - often become the subject of enthusiastic collectibles. Moreover, it is pleasant not only to collect a collection of prefabricated models, creating, for example, a mini-exposition of a military event, but also to directly participate in their creation. The object model is sold disassembled as a set. This is a kind of volumetric puzzle that needs to be assembled, clearly focusing on the attached instructions. The models are made of high-quality plastic with preservation of all the smallest details inherent in a real object.

In some models, the parts are already painted, but in most cases, the parts in the set have a solid gray color, which you need to add picturesque to yourself.
It is worth noting that painting a prefabricated model is a rather painstaking business. But do difficulties frighten us? Then let's get started!

What is required to paint prefabricated models 1 Paint Choosing a paint for modeling is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Water-soluble acrylic paints are excellent and can be applied with a brush or sprayed with an airbrush. Modeling paints are conveniently sold in sets specially selected for the color of a particular type of equipment, for example, "Military equipment", "Ships", "Aviation", etc. There are also nitro paints, but this is an option for professional modelers, behind whose shoulders there is already more than one painted model. In addition, it is worth considering that such paints have a very pungent smell. Attention.

2 Brushes Brushes will do whatever you like, as long as the pile is soft and does not leave marks. Although in some cases, such traces can give a realistic texture to the model. For example, to convey the texture of wood on the planks of a ship, you can use small diameter bristles. You can use an airbrush instead of a brush, but this is a tool more for professionals.

In practice, you can achieve excellent results with a brush. Choose brushes of several sizes, round and flat, so that you can easily paint large surfaces and small details. 3 Primer When painting models with acrylic paints, a primer is required, otherwise the paint will simply "roll" off the surface without painting it. In addition, with a primer, it is easier to identify unexpected irregularities on the surface, so that later they can be putty, cleaned and primed again. It is not necessary to prime models for nitro paint, but nevertheless it will not be superfluous to identify and eliminate irregularities. Be sure to choose a primer that is suitable for polystyrene so as not to damage the model!

4 Varnish Varnish is an excellent protection of the finished model from all external factors. The model can not only be wiped from dust, but even completely "bathed" under the tap, without fear of rubbing off the paint or damaging something. For nitro paints, both nitro and acrylic varnish are suitable. But for acrylic paints, only acrylic varnish should be used! Otherwise, the paint layer may swell.

7 Thinner Whenever you work with acrylic, keep your acrylic thinner with you. It will help to keep the brushes in their original form and to erase random drops of paint.

For the model itself, you will need a model knife or paper cutter, nippers, sandpaper of various grain sizes, and a file will not be superfluous. You may need a one-component, designed for modeling, putty, flat spatula for applying putty on irregularities, and for very small models, you can take a flat screwdriver instead of a spatula.

A large number of varnishes, paints and primers are sold in aerosol cans. The paints do not need to be diluted, in general, this option is well suited for large models.

Preparation for work

Having prepared and protected the work surface and furniture around, you can start assembling the model. Carefully detach the parts from the sprues and carefully sand the cuts to smooth them out.
Carefully study the instructions and see which places you can paint over after gluing, and which not. Based on this, some parts of the model can be immediately connected to each other. Apply the glue pointwise with the very tip of a brush or a regular sewing needle, then press the glued parts tightly against each other and leave for a few minutes. The glue will dry completely in about a day.
If the model contains transparent parts, it is better to cover them with masking tape.

Do this in any convenient way, for example, dampen a cotton pad or lint-free cloth in a degreaser. Do not touch the part with your hands! Degreasers, such as alcohol and gasoline, evaporate on their own, and dishwashing detergents must be rinsed off under running water, after which the parts must dry thoroughly.

Let's start painting

First you need to decide on the base color of the model. See what color the finished product should have the most - take this color as a basis. It may need to be applied in several layers.

It's important to know!
When painting models of military and other equipment, do not use solid colors. Even if the color seems saturated and uniform, try adding a little black, white, or sandy yellow to it. Do not be afraid to experiment with the palette, and then the result will be very natural. For example, if a part looks black, try painting it dark brown and darkening some areas with black.

Having covered the details of the model with the main color and waiting for it to dry, you can start toning. To do this, you can use the same paints from the set, only diluting them strongly with water. You can apply darkening or imitate dried dirt in color. It is better to combine different toning colors, so the model will be "livelier". There are so-called "filters" that slightly change the shade of the main color, make it picturesque. To do this, you can use oil paints with any thinner for oil paints, for example, with white spirit. The paint is diluted very thinly and should be more like a watercolor, we cover the entire model with the obtained tinted liquid.

A brown, gray filter, ocher will do, or you can apply several filters one after the other. After applying the filter, leave the model to dry for at least a day.
You can make the model even more realistic. For example, the image of adhering dirt is good with a sponge, and splashes are easy to depict if you put paint on a toothbrush and run your finger over it, spraying the paint on the desired surface. You can achieve texture, for example, adhering lumps of earth, by mixing the paint with PVA glue and putty. Rubbing paint in with a dry brush will also give interesting effects. And if you slightly blur some areas on the model with thinner, you get an imitation of paint fading in the sun.

That's all. Now you can show your friends a real miniature model, not only assembled, but also painted with your own hands!

If this article was helpful to you, please rate it (at the top of the page). Thanks!

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One of the important roles in the design of prefabricated aircraft models is painting. Sometimes for some scales of models, for example, 1:72, 1: 100, 1: 144, painting takes the main role and here the most important thing is to make the correct selection of paints and apply them with high quality, it depends on whether you emphasize the merits of the model or not. In this article, you will learn about the basic painting technologies.

Consider the two main methods of painting prefabricated aircraft models: painting the models with a brush and painting with a spray gun (airbrush).

Brush painting

This method is considered the easiest and most accessible to everyone, both beginners and experienced modelers.

Paints

The most common type of paint is nitro paint. But this paint has one big drawback - it is a very pungent and unpleasant smell. These paints are suitable for work areas with good ventilation.

The optimal paint for painting plastic models is alkyd enamels. These enamels have a good texture, they are evenly distributed in a thin layer, giving the surface of the aircraft model a shine, and also have a weak odor. The drying time of such enamels is from 6 to 12 hours, this factor depends on the thickness of the applied coating and the ambient temperature. To create a different palette, the desired shades, you should stock up on the basic six colors: white, black, red, yellow, silver and blue.

Brushes

Now let's consider the question, which brushes should be purchased for painting aircraft models? You will need different brushes: large, small, thin, round, flat. Here the choice depends on the model that you will paint, i.e. the smaller the model, the smaller the size of the brush, and, accordingly, vice versa.

You should choose brushes with even bristles, semi-rigid, hairy (for example, sable, badger, squirrel).

After each use, the brushes are cleaned with a paint solution, rinsed thoroughly with water and dried.

And let's move on to the very process of painting over the aircraft models.

1. Preparing the model for staining... To do this, wash the model in warm soapy water using a toothbrush to remove the greasy layer. Then we thoroughly dry the model, for this we leave it in an inaccessible place to minimize the ingress of dust and dirt on it. Or use a special degreaser.

2. Primer... Before applying paint to the surface of the aircraft, the model should be primed. This is done to smooth out various types of irregularities on the surface of the model, as well as to ensure that over time your paint does not peel off the plane. The soil should be applied evenly to the model.

If, nevertheless, some irregularities remain after the priming, and they do not suit you, you should grind. The airplane model should be sanded with the finest sandpaper to avoid traces of the skin.

Then we repeat the priming process. The soil should be chosen in light colors - white or gray.

3. Dyeing... If, after priming and grinding the aircraft model, everything suits you, the surface is even, without potholes and cracks, then you can safely proceed to the painting process. One of the basic rules for applying paint to a model is to apply light tones first, and then dark ones. First of all, the lower parts of the model should be painted, then the upper ones. We paint over the upper parts of the model only after the lower ones are completely dry.

To achieve an even layer when applying paint, work in only one direction.

In order not to leave traces of brush strokes, you should dilute the paint so that it becomes more liquid and apply 2 - 3 coats to the aircraft model. It is worth mentioning that each subsequent layer of paint should be applied to the dried previous one.

4. At the end of the painting, leave the aircraft model to dry.

Airbrush painting

An airbrush is a tool designed to spray liquid paint with compressed air onto various surfaces.

Before painting airplane models, it is important to adjust the level of paint supply so that no smudges and dust build up on the object to be painted. If you are using an airbrush for the first time, you should, before painting on the most home-made model of an airplane, test the capabilities of the airbrush on any other unnecessary parts of the plastic.

For safety precautions, when using the airbrush, gloves and a respirator should be used.

So, here are the basic principles of airbrushing an airplane model:

• Before painting, the model must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
• Then the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.
• The next stage is degreasing and drying the product.

4. After complete drying, the model should be primed and, if necessary, sanded again.

5. When painting the entire aircraft model, tape or masking tape to mirrors, headlights, glass, landing gear, etc. Apply the paint in one direction. After applying one coat of paint to the airplane model, let it dry for a few minutes, and then apply the next coat. After that, let the paint dry completely, leave it for 2 - 3 hours. Then we start painting the rest of the aircraft.

6. Complex drawings should be done using stencils. It should be borne in mind that with each subsequent layer of applied paint we use a new stencil.

7. After finishing the painting work, disassemble and thoroughly rinse the airbrush.

Summing up this article, I want to say that high-quality paint will come to you with experience. While doing this work, you should be patient, diligent and accurate - and the result will delight you!

Here is a great workshop methodology from Jerry Yarrish's workshop. The products may have changed over the years, but today, painting your model plane with canned spray paint is a less expensive alternative than using an air compressor and a hand spray gun.

When you start creating models that have plastic or fiberglass parts such as the engine hood, fender or wheel covers, you will be faced with the added challenge of painting them to match the rest of your model's color scheme. Spray paint is a convenient and easy way to finish these molded parts, but if you don't take the time to prepare them, your paint results may wear off or chip off after a few flights. Here's a sure-fire way to achieve long lasting, attractive paint results with minimal effort.

Basic items you'll need to include 150 and 220 grit sandpaper, vinyl masking tape and paper masking tape, a sharp hobby knife, paper towels, and denatured alcohol. You will also need protective paper for protection (wrapping paper or double-folded newspaper) and a tacky automotive cleaning cloth. If possible, use the same brand (manufacturer) of paint, primer and varnish. Here I am using white, light red, white production primer. Coverite 21st Century and varnish.

1. The first step is to wash your hands to degrease your fingers before sanding your part of the model (here, an example would be the engine hood for my Giantscaleplanes.com Super Decathlon). Use 150 grit sandpaper to remove all gloss from the surface of the part. Go into all small corners with it and smooth the inner edges of all holes. Wipe off the part and make sure there are no shiny spots. Then repeat the same with 220 grit sandpaper. Sanding the part allows the primer to "grab", hook onto the surface and help it "stick" to the part more firmly.

2. Wipe the hood again, then use denatured alcohol to degrease the surface of the hood. Even fingerprints can disrupt the process and result in poor results.

3. Before spraying the primer, make a wire hook and hang the part from it. Shake the can vigorously until you hear the mixing ball inside the can - stir the paint well and roll evenly inside, then apply the primer in a few light coats. Let each layer dry for a minute or two before proceeding with the next. When spraying, hold the can about 25-30 cm from the part.

4. After the airplane part has dried for several hours, wipe it with a cloth to remove dust from the surface. When machining a part, try to hold it from the inside to minimize fingerprints on the outside.

5. Hang the piece again and start applying the base coat - in this case, shiny white. Whenever you paint a multi-colored piece, always start with lighter colors and add darker on top. Also, if you paint one bright color like yellow, orange, or red, first apply a white base coat to the part; this gives the next color a richness and correct tone.

6. Prepare your masking tape by cutting the tape into thin strips of 5-6 mm. The top red section of my engine hood has two rounded front corners that require duct tape to be folded around them. The thin stripes make this possible.

7. After the paint has dried overnight, place the hood over the model, making sure it is properly seated against the propeller and airplane body. Use a ruler to draw the main lines with a pencil so that in the future, the painted areas will match the fuselage design.

8. Using the prepared strips of electrical tape, cover the border edges of the areas of the part that you do not intend to paint over - according to the design. Do not stretch the tape in straight lines, but stretch it slightly along the curved edges and planes of the model. If the tape is too stretched, it will peel off before you finish painting the part.

9. Check the tape to make sure it is applied correctly. If you don't like something, remove the tape and reapply until the result is correct.

10. Cover the rest of the hood with masking tape (masking tape). Start the application from the tape and move away from the painted surface until you have protected about 5 centimeters of the unpainted area of ​​the part.

11. Use plain paper, tissue paper or newspaper to mask the rest of the hood and make sure everything is completely closed. Double check the curved edges to make sure the tape hasn't come off.

12. Cover the work surface with paper and lift the hood with a few paper cups to raise them off the surface. This will prevent the paint from sticking to the paper. Now start painting the unmasked part of the bonnet. Apply the paint in very light coats and let it dry for a minute or two before applying more coats.

Here you see the first layer. Note that it does not completely cover the white base coat. Apply a few more light coats until the white is visible.

It looks red after applying six or seven layers. Now let the paint dry for about 10 minutes, then carefully remove your masking tape.

13. After the paint has dried overnight, stick your decorative graphics (decals). Here I have placed a black star on the hood. Notice the small white triangle I left at the top of the star. This little trick makes masking unnecessary before painting the red part of the part where the star will be placed.

14. Here I glue two black stripes that complete the trim design. Once you're done with all the trim work, wipe the hood with a cloth and hang it on a wire hanger and apply a few clear lacquers to hold everything in place. Let the clearcoat dry overnight and you're ready to install the hood on your model.

Here is the finished hood on the Super Decathlon. Coloring with aerosol cans is very easy and the results are impressive if you have the time to get the job done right. The clear lacquer really models shine and seals all edges at the same time.

Try this spray paint technique and you will love the results with this technique.

Based on materials from the site modelairplanenews.

Foreword
In general, I started writing this text even before I finally formed a more or less accurate opinion about the various paints and how they are applied to the model. Therefore, at first there will be a little verbiage, which is also desirable to read, since there is also a little instructive in it.

So, at the end of 2013, carried away by modeling, and realizing that I just don't want to buy an airbrush yet, but I wish (with a little bit of masochism) to try to learn how to paint without it, I just went to the World of Models store, bought what there was, namely the enamel "Tamiya". And then in "Stationery" I took a Chinese set of 10 brushes for 65 rubles, and got down to business. Of course, before that, for a start, I tried to read something ... But it seemed to me that everything is so simple that you shouldn't even bother collecting information on the issue of interest to me.
In short, I started to paint and it didn't work out for me. I mean, absolutely.
This discouraged me. But not that much.

Small digression
The fact is that in childhood, many told me that I can draw, and I must definitely go to study at an art school. But I didn't want to go to art. It was enough for me that I could draw a female figure with a simple pencil (simplified and without obvious naturalism), well, and something else ... depending on the mood ... The whole point is that I only drew with a pencil. Simple. Since I never did anything with paints. And here life again pushed me against the colors ...

Realizing that I was doing something wrong, I decided to read some more.
And if you think that the Internet is filled to capacity with information about the technique of painting with a brush, then you are deeply mistaken.
Basically, all the answers to the questions from the series "How to learn to paint with a brush?" True, some interlocutors recalled legends about some Masters of the brush who painted with brushes better than with an airbrush, but that was usually the end of the matter.

Nevertheless, I got myself a notebook where I began to write down all the interesting things and subtleties of modeling, including about the methods and techniques of painting with a brush. The subtracted methods from different authors sometimes differed dramatically, and only then I realized that real painting with a brush is not just "painting with a brush"! This is a process with a bunch of subtleties and nuances, and even somewhere - art.

And then one day, in search of a video of painting with a brush (by the way - absolutely unsuccessful), I came across a video of painting with an ordinary kitchen sponge. This inspired me. And it didn't matter that the author of the video tutorial painted the tank! (by the way, I was building airplanes, and this, as you understand, is a little different) It was a chance to start dyeing without having to suffer with the development of these sticks with a bun of hair at the end (i.e. brushes)!

I want to say that another ambush awaited me on my way, which is better to say right away.
This ambush is impatience.
Without waiting for the applied layer of paint to dry, I started to lay the next layer, and immediately spoiled the previous one. And here it does not matter at all what to paint and how ... If for a certain paint and method of application you did not withstand the time required (for drying or polymerization), most likely you will have to start all over again.
Why do you think I am writing all this? Yes, in order to somehow occupy yourself while the next layer of paint on the model dries!

In general, after the first layer applied with a sponge, I liked it (the sponge). Most importantly, there were no creepy streaks and hair left from her, like from a brush. But she had other flaws. The most important drawback, which will interfere even when you get your hand in the paint with a sponge, is a great difficulty in painting over small bumps and other places where the sponge simply does not fit. Well, and some "roughness" of the applied layer, even with well-diluted paint.
It was this "roughness" that prompted me to try using a softer and less "pimply" sponge (which women use to apply cosmetics) instead of a sponge. But it also had its disadvantages - it either immediately clogs up with paint and ceases to be a "sponge", or, under certain conditions, it begins to "stick" to the surface and drag the already dried paint along with it. In this case, the result is terrible, especially if it happened on the last layers or on surfaces that are important in terms of the exterior.

Having at the very beginning of my journey a very small assortment of types and manufacturers of paints, I tried to paint the first two models (LaGG-3 and R-39) "by hand" (with a brush and a sponge) with enamels from TAMIYA. And although I still like these models, I admit that they are painted badly.

Then I found and read a wonderful article "ABC of acrylic"(Walt Fink Fine Scale Magazin 09 2001) after which he quite fruitfully trained to paint with acrylic in different ways and with different thinners (the article itself can be read or downloaded in PDF format at this link)... At the same time, I used acrylic paints from the same "Tamia". Training took place on another "cat" that never became a model - on a 48th scale Hurricane from the notorious ARK company. All these experiments were described by me here in LJ in "Learning to paint without an airbrush. TAMIYA acrylic. First experience." (link to PDF file).

But despite the experience gained, I again failed to paint the next model (Yak-1) normally.
Although I painted it in the most successful (judging by the experiments) method.

After that, I again sat down to textbooks ... I began to search the Web for information about painting with a brush.
And the search was crowned with success - a wonderful article was found "Ours for you with a brush" written by Maxim Bylkin and published in the magazine "M-Hobby" (PDF link)... And again I was inspired - here it is! Deciding to immediately try the recommendations received, I again went to buy paint (which I still had plenty of by that time). This time it was REVELL enamel. I started to paint another "cat" (P-40 "Tomahawk") in the way I read in the article, and again I failed.
No, something came out better than the enamels from "Tamia", but it was still bad ... Now I understand that the enamels "Revell" dry for a very long time (even a day for one layer will not be enough), and the main problems have me were because of this.

At the same time, I was building "Foku" (FW-190A), which I tried to paint in the same way as "Tomahawk", but with enamel from "Tamia".
After five layers of paint, I erased everything, and "after consulting with my friends" began to repaint "Foku" with acrylic, trying to combine everything that I had read before in the painting style.
"And then I got flooded!" (with)
Although I continued to mow when painting, this no longer related to the method of painting, but to my crooked hands.

Therefore, at this stage of my research, I was able to shout, like the Cat Matroskin - "It worked !!!" - and began to hone my skills ...

And now I will write what, in fact, all this was written for - my humble opinion on the methods of painting models without an airbrush. Moreover, this article deals exclusively with the technology of applying the base color. Everything else - motling, gadding, aging and other perversions - is a completely different story ...

So let's go!

Below I offer you a variant of the technology for painting the surface of a model using brushes, which I came to through a long trial and error described above, and which I am using now.

I want to clarify right away what to apply base color I use exclusively acrylic paints and varnishes of "Tamiya" firm. And as a diluent, I have chosen and still use ordinary vodka (the cheapest).

I would also like to say about brushes ...
I use mostly flat, synthetic brushes. Their size, depending on the surface, ranges from No. 2 to No. 8. And for applying varnish - up to No. 16. I also note that it is better to buy brushes in specialized stores, since a cheap brush will ruin all your work, no matter how you tried. I buy brushes from Leonardo from Gamma (Gallery series), Mr. Painter and Colonsky sable. Or other good manufacturers.

Well, actually a little bit of technology ...

1. I apply layers of acrylic on vodka at fairly short intervals - sometimes less than a minute.
This is possible due to the properties of the thinner - vodka evaporates quickly, and as soon as the paint stops shining, you can safely paint the next layer. Moreover, it is better to do this with a semi-dry brush and, as it were, shading the not yet dried out areas. Note: At the same time, the paint should be quite liquid - I mix at least (!) Three parts of vodka for one part of the paint. But more often I dilute it even thinner - 1: 5. I do not count the layers and their quantity is determined visually by the quality of the resulting coating. If the paint is diluted quite liquid and in itself it is transparent (for example, white), then there can be 10-15 layers ... 2-3.

2. If the varnish with which the paint will be covered is also acrylic, then it is better to apply it (also with a brush) minimum in a day. Otherwise, there is a high probability of smearing the paint that has not yet completely dried. I dilute varnish in the same way as paint, but after application I do not shade, but let it dry on my own.

3. It is possible to polish acrylic paint with felt (which I sometimes do to determine the quality of painting and correct some small defects in the coating) in about 15-20 minutes after applying the layer. I usually go over the surface with felt somewhere in the middle of the job, and, if necessary, at the end of painting.

ATTENTION!
1. Acrylic paint from "Tamia" is washed off with soapy water ( !!! ) And very good! Therefore, before applying varnish (preferably enamel), no water procedures. Otherwise, you will have to paint everything anew.
2. All of the above is written based on my personal experience and skills. And if something suddenly did not work out for you, you should not assume that I deceived you somewhere.

GOOD LUCK!!!

P.S. You can look at almost all my works (painted exclusively with brushes) on the Karopka.ru project by going to my page here at this

In fact, the first model is usually not painted, so we go straight to the second step in the development of the modeler - to the moment when he first thought that the heap of "naked" plastic, decorated with "decals" is somehow not very beautiful ...

Part 1. The essentials

The very first thing a modeler needs to start trimming models is money. Much money. So much money. Regardless of what and in what ways you will paint, you need the following things:

1. Actually, the paints themselves (or enamels)

Paint is something that cannot then be dissolved or washed off with something just like that. The ceilings in the apartment, for example, are painted with water-based paints, diluted with water, and after drying, you will wipe them off. Enamels - they can be washed off, and easily, with their own solvent. Example - watercolors, dissolve with water, and then wash off with water. Models are painted with both, you can not get hung up on this for now; in the future in the article they will be, both, just "paints", but if necessary, they will be highlighted.

On various forums you can find fierce disputes "which colors are better", strong arguments are given, sometimes it will come to a fight ... Do not get involved in such discussions - firstly, if you have not worked with this, then your subjective opinion is only " will add fuel to the fire ", and secondly," every cricket praises his pole ", and every modeller works with those paints and varnishes that he could get and to which he had time to get used to.

So which paint should you choose?

If you have a small child in your family, then nitro paints will not work for you - they have a very pungent smell. In this case, you should pay attention to a number of water-based or acrylic paints. If you see the words "Diluted with water" or "Diluted with alcohol" on a bottle with paint, you should know that these are your paints. If you have a hood and everyone is calm about the smell of the solvent, then you can choose nitro paints - they are easier to use, but they are worse washed off the hands. It is also easy to "burn through" transparent parts with nitro paints and spoil the plastic. Both are worth about the same.

Almost all models require the following paints:

• White
• Black
• Silver

The rest of the paints required for a particular model can be purchased gradually, as needed. Remember, under no circumstances mix paints from different manufacturers or paints on a different basis (nitro and water, for example) to obtain the desired color, the paints may deteriorate!

As a rule, one jar is enough for 2-3 models (if painted with an airbrush) and 1 model for painting with a brush, or 8-10 sets of soldiers. The model is average, such as an aircraft on a scale of 1:72, or a tank or soldiers on a scale of 1:35. There are also special paints for an airbrush, very liquid, but it is better not to buy them for now - they are not suitable for a brush; in cans, the paint is universal. Hence the difference in paint consumption - when using an airbrush, the paint is diluted, it "becomes more" and is enough for more models.

2. Ground

This is a liquid applied to the model that prevents the paint from falling off the model after drying. For nitro and water-based paints, the primers are different and cannot be changed.

There is one more nuance. If, when painting with a brush, you put nitro paint on plastic, then it slightly dissolves this plastic, "gnaws", and the primer is not really needed; then when painting with water-soluble paints, the primer is always necessary - the water does not dissolve the plastic, and the paint will collect in droplets on the surface. This phenomenon is called "adhesion", i.e. simplified "wettability", or the ability of something to spread evenly over any surface. If you don’t believe, then try to “paint the plastic” evenly with plain water. When painting with an airbrush, the primer is always necessary, regardless of the type of paint - the paint lays on the surface already "at the end" in small portions, and it simply does not have the strength to normally "eat" the plastic and "stick" to it.

3. Varnish

Varnish is necessary so that your model will delight your eyes for a long time, and you could calmly, for example, after a holiday and a prelude display of your achievements, go and wash the model under the tap, without fear of ruining the decals (decals) and paint. Varnishes are also nitro- and water-soluble. If you painted with nitro paints, then the varnish can be nitro or acrylic (water or alcohol soluble); if you painted with water-soluble paints, then nitro varnish can ruin everything, the surface will "swell" and "rise". In addition, when using water-soluble acrylic paints, almost every layer should be varnished - these paints are extremely delicate. Usually firms that produce water-based paints also produce varnishes for these paints, so be sure to buy.

Primer, varnish and paint are also sold in aerosol cans. You can buy for both models and cars - if only the color fits. They do not need a solvent, they are already diluted. But this is for extreme lovers with a big wallet - the consumption of paint and varnish material is large, and in the apartment, in addition to the model, you will paint everything that will be "in the line of fire" of the spray can.

4. Solvent

Everything is simple here - take what is written on the paint. At the initial stage, this will save you from unnecessary hassle. Then, when you have experience and a bunch of unnecessary paint cans, you can start experimenting, buy "third-party" solvents, etc. As well as for varnishes, manufacturing firms must also produce a solvent (sometimes called a thinner) for their paints. If it says "Diluted with water", then you can safely dilute it with boiled, or better distilled, if you get it. It is not recommended to dilute raw from a tap or a spring, after all, there is a lot of all kinds of salts, minerals, etc.

5. Flushing

Unlike the wash used by the modellers in the sense of “aging the model”, the technical wash is a liquid used to wash brushes, tools, hands, furniture, etc. etc. after painting. As a remover, you can use the same solvent with which you diluted the paint, or you can buy a special one. If you painted with enamels, then you can wash it off with a solvent, and if with paints, then it is better to use a special remover. It is better to wash the tool immediately after the end of the work, otherwise then you will be tortured to clean the dried paint.

6. Container

As a rule, the colors in the jar are thick, and these jars are sold filled to capacity. To work with a brush, paint can be dripped into caps from beer or vodka, solvent can also be dripped there, mixed and painted with this. After painting, you do not need to throw away the cap - firstly, over time, you will accumulate a palette, according to which you can select the desired shade for a particular model.

Secondly, in this cap, you can dilute the same paint again (if you try to dilute another, they may mix and get a different shade), and thirdly, if you painted with enamel and you have an accidental scratch on the old model and paints no, you can try to dilute what is left in the lid and "cover up" it. I also recommend going to the pharmacy or walking around your house and ask old women for glass medicine bottles. Rest assured, they will be immensely happy if you offer them a cash reward for each bubble. You, who buys paint (and one jar costs at least two loaves of bread), it will not be expensive at all, and they, in the modern world, will really need it. If you are shy, then go to the pharmacy and buy the cheapest medicines in the required container. At the moment, for the price of one can of paint, you can buy a dozen bottles of "Naphtizin".

Part 2. Choosing a painting method

The overwhelming number of modelers can be divided into two opposing camps - those who paint with a brush, and those who paint with an airbrush. We will not go into such heated discussions about who is stronger - an elephant or a whale, but let's try to figure out how they differ and what we need.

Now it is not important for us how we will paint - the main thing for us is to get a beautiful model, so that next time we will not be told “You are doing daubbing again”. For the first time, buy a model that practically does not need to be painted - the set includes multi-colored plastic. Especially manufacturers who produce models of cars and ships like to indulge in this. If you see a large, beautiful, non-Russian box with a typewriter or sailing boat, then most likely there is multi-colored plastic, although it is better to consult with the seller. You just have to glue it and tint it a little with a brush for heightened effect. But you can say "I painted!" and continue their hard way in further improving the finishing of models.

Made? Got the consent of your family (moms, dads, wives, children, etc.) to continue the experiments? Moving on - we buy a model that needs to be painted ALL. FROM and TO.

When painting large surfaces, it is already worth considering - paint with a brush or airbrush? The first method is cheaper and more affordable; but the second is prettier, faster and more expensive. When painting with brushes, you only need the brushes, and when painting with an airbrush, you need an airbrush and also a compressor. Take a sheet of glass and try to paint it with a brush so that it is even, without bumps and streaks. Happened? Then you don't need an airbrush, keep up the good work. If it doesn't work, try again. Doesn't it work even after the tenth time? You are hopeless, you have to buy an airbrush ... Or aerosol cans, for the first time.

Have you chosen what to paint with? If with a brush, then buy brushes, all sorts of different, tasty and sweet, squirrel and kolinsky, large and small, round and flat ... If with a spray, buy the colors you need. If an airbrush, then an airbrush and a compressor. In the last two cases, you will also need an extractor hood. Although the prices of both the latter methods will be equal by the end of the first year, and in the future the airbrush will start to fall in price.

Part 3. Assembling the model for painting

First, we carefully review the assembly instructions. As a rule, it is designed in such a way that the model remains unfinished after assembly. How? Very simple - after gluing the last part, you can no longer paint in most places.

Therefore, we CAREFULLY study every detail and evaluate where we can climb after gluing, and where we cannot. If we can, then we glue, if not, then we paint first, and then we glue it.
For figures, you can glue everything except weapons, for armored vehicles - everything except wheels, tracks, boxes, shovels, crowbars, etc.; also first we glue and paint the cabin. As a rule, after gluing the body, it is no longer possible to reach the steering wheel, seats and pedals with a brush. For aircraft models, you do not need to glue weapons, landing gear, antennas - they are painted separately from the fuselage, wings, etc. Choose the time for painting the cab as far as you can: you can paint it separately and carefully insert it - paint it separately.

Each model is individual, so be guided by your experience, ingenuity and luck - you can always tear it off and remake it, there can be no unequivocal recommendations here. But if you are afraid to ruin everything, it is better to buy two identical models, train at the first, and do the second, focusing on the mistakes of the first.

Part 4. Finishing the model.

There is a certain sequence to follow if you want to get a beautiful model.

1. Surface preparation

It is generally known that paint adheres better to a rough surface than a polished one. However, a rough surface on a small model will significantly impair its appearance. Therefore, before applying the first layer of paint and varnish material, the model should be made as smooth as possible, and we will achieve the reliability of the coating in another tricky way, which we will talk about below.

Most modelers use sandpaper to smooth the model. If you will not buy skin in model stores, then take the M40 and smaller. If in model stores, then they will offer you a ready-made set of skins, it is more expensive, but also less headache. Take the skin, soak it in water and third model until you have rubbed off the glue seams and glue-stained parts to such an extent that they are not noticeable to the touch.

The skin should be changed from time to time to a finer one until you sand the model with the smallest one you have. If the model has a lot of protruding small parts, such as rivets, imitation of the joints of the sheathing sheets, etc., then you will suffer for a long time. This is not scary - do not hesitate to admit that you smoked one model for six months. Firstly, it will emphasize your patience, and secondly, it will emphasize the fact that you are thinking about modeling thoughtfully, and not a blooper. In the future, you will find a lot of good things in yourself, and your household will be immensely happy that you do not waste your salary, do not hang out at night, do not cheat on your wife or just your girlfriend (once it is simple), and your golden hands are growing. Well, or at least pretend ...

After you have sanded everything, the parts of the model need to be planted somewhere (usually called a mandrel) so as not to paint your hands, and after painting, do not keep the parts until dry. Very rarely, model sprues are designed in such a way that you can paint parts without cutting them off the sprues, so everything that the eye fell on can be used - toothpicks, the same sprues from models, ice cream sticks, etc. It is necessary to glue the part to these mandrels in the place with which it will then be glued to the model. After that, the mandrel must be stuck somewhere so that the part does not touch anything. For the first time, the mandrel can be put on the edge of the table and pressed with a book, and in the future you can come up with a board with a bunch of holes into which you will insert the mandrels, like pencils in a glass of a desk writing instrument.

Planted? That's it, you can't touch the details with your hands anymore.

2. Degreasing

In order for the paints and varnishes to hold better, the model must be degreased. You can use everything that comes to hand - soap, fairies, gasoline ... Anything that dissolves fat. It is best, of course, to degrease with a thin layer of alcohol, but where can you get so much of it? Not sure how to degrease with alcohol? Take a sip, breathe on the cotton wool, and wipe the model with this cotton wool, in a thin layer. Yes, it's a pity that the alcohol ran out quickly, and the model is not even half fat-free ...

Well, after degreasing, you need to remove all traces of the degreaser - if alcohol or gasoline, then it dries by itself, and if soap, fairies or some other kitchen chemicals, then you need to rinse the model under running water and put it to dry. The main thing is not to touch the model with your hands. If you see a speck or hair, brush it off with a degreased brush.

3. Primary priming

In fact, it has already been said about the need for priming, but it is better to repeat: "A primer is such a liquid applied to a model that prevents the paint from falling off this model after drying." If you don’t want to primer, please don’t. Just carry out an experiment - apply primer on a piece of the sprue from this model, let it dry, and then paint the sprue and uncoated sprue at the same time. Let the paint dry, and then try scratching it off with your fingernail. If there is a difference, then do what is best. If there is no difference, then it may be true that the primer on this model, for this paint, with this method of applying the paint and varnish material, is superfluous.

Apply a protective coat to the transparent parts. As a rule, masking tape is suitable for this. The protective coating will be removed after the final varnishing (or the last coat of paint if you do not want to varnish it). Then apply the primer evenly to the model. If you planted a drop with soil, do not wash it, but wait until it dries and go to the next step.

4. Intermediate grinding

If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the surface after priming, intermediate sanding is your chance to fix it. Take the finest skin you have and sand the soil. At this stage, the shortcomings made in the preparation of the surface for the application of the primer are already becoming noticeable. If you are dripping from the ground- we also grind it off. If you get carried away, and sanded the soil to plastic, then the priming operation in this place will have to be repeated.

5. Final priming

If you used intermediate grinding, then you just need to perform this operation. Firstly, with its help, you finally cover the entire surface, and secondly, you finally make sure that the evenness of the surface satisfies you (at this stage, you seem to imitate the application of paint). If the surface does not suit you (the risks from the sandpaper are visible), then either you sanded with a very coarse sandpaper, or you missed something during intermediate sanding. Troubleshooting solutions - Repeat steps 4 and 5 again, decreasing the grain size of the skin and increasing the duration of the sanding process.

6. Application of the main tone

Look carefully at the color scheme and figure out which color zones are larger (by area). This will be the main tone. The exception is light colors - yellow, silver, red, blue, light gray, etc. If the main tone is light, then it is best to first paint the entire model with white paint (light colors look brighter on it), and only then apply the main tone. You can paint the entire model with the basic tone, provided that it is not red. It is not worth blowing out the model with one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish.

At this stage, the risks from the skin become even more noticeable. If you do not want to see them, repeat steps 4 and 6. If, at the same time, you again sand the paint and primer to the plastic, then you must complete steps 4, 5, 6; at the same time, point 5 is not performed on the entire model, but only in those places where you have reached the plastic.

7. Application of camouflage

Careless movement of a brush or airbrush can ruin the entire appearance of the model, so be careful with this operation. In fact, every modeler performs camouflage in his own favorite way, but there are a few rules that everyone adheres to. Here they are: first, light tones are applied, then dark ones; non-working (not painted) areas are covered with masks (anything you like - from a piece of paper and scotch tape to any special liquids). Also, as with applying the main tone, it is not worth painting the model at one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish. If the camouflage is multi-colored, then varnish should be applied after each color application.

8. Final finishing

Here you can do what you want - assemble the model, apply decals, age, wash off ... There are no strict recommendations at this stage - everyone for himself, everyone builds what he wants and how he can. Sometimes it is more convenient to apply decals and then glue, and sometimes glue and then apply decals. But it's best to age afterwards - to age both the model and the decal at the same time.

The main thing is that if you apply varnish after all this, then do not remove the masks (protective coating) from the transparent parts. Otherwise, transparency may be lost from varnish, especially if it is nitro varnish. Although matte lacquer on glass is also not good enough ...

Part 5. Conclusion

If you have read the entire article carefully - you can do modeling! The most important thing is patience, and the rest will follow. Modeling - it is so, it takes a lot of time ...

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