Distance between gutter holders. What you need to prepare for the installation of the drainage system - the stages of the work step by step. Plastic gutter bracket

Consider in the article how the installation of the drainage system is carried out. What elements does it consist of, and what must be considered when assembling it. After reading the information, you will be able to easily talk with the contractor, plus optimize the cost of purchasing a drainage system from the roof of your own house.

Gutter system at home Source edelveis72.ru

What is the drainage system

It includes two main elements:

gutters, they are also trays that are installed on the roof eaves, and their main task is to collect rain or melt water from the slopes;

pipes into which water enters from the trays are located vertically, and their task is to discharge water into the storm sewer.

There are additional items:

funnels through which water enters the pipes from the trays:

bends for pipe assembly, if it is necessary to lay them along architectural ledges on the building;

brackets for mounting trays;

clamps for fastening pipes to walls;

plugs for closing the rear ends of the trays.

Elements of the drainage system Source donstroyservis.ru

The sequence of installation of the drainage system

First of all, the installation of gutters is carried out. They are attached to brackets, which are fixed either to the first element of the crate, or to the rafter legs, or to the frontal board. The best option is the first one. But it can only be carried out if the roofing material on the truss system has not yet been installed. If the roof is already covered, then the brackets are attached according to the last two options.

Installing brackets on the frontal board Source krovelson.ru

Fastening brackets to the crate

For this, brackets with a long leg are used. It is simply bent back to the required length, applied to the crate and attached to it with self-tapping screws through the holes made.

Bracket with long leg Source www.braersnab.ru

It is important to adhere strictly to two parameters during installation:

distances between fasteners;

distance from the middle of the hook to the edge of the roof overhang.

The last parameter should vary in the range of 30-40 mm. This is done so that the water coming from the roof gets in the middle of the gutter. So that there is no overflow over the edges of the trays and splashes of water.

Installation and fastening of brackets to the crate Source rooms-styling.com

Attachment to rafter legs

If the roofing material has already been laid, then one of the options for attaching the brackets is to the rafters. For this, all the same fasteners with a long leg are used, only they have it turned by 90 °. Thus, it is simply more convenient to mount.

Source profiroof.com

Attachment to front board

One of the top photos already shows how to attach the bracket fasteners to the front board. For this, short products without legs are used, but with a stand in which mounting holes are made.

It should be noted that today manufacturers offer various models, which mainly differ from each other in the way of fastening. The photo below shows an option where the fastener is a bar with a full-length groove. It is attached to the frontal board, and the brackets themselves are inserted into the grooves.

Mounting plate with gutter brackets Source oookifa.com

Other options

If it is not possible to install the brackets according to the options described above, then it is possible to fasten the roof overhang to the filing. For this, brackets with a long leg are used, which are bent to the required angle and length. The photo below shows this setup.

Roof eaves attachment Source ms.decorexpro.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey roofing services of any complexity. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Gutter Assembly Rules and Sequence

The main task of the work foreman is to fasten the gutters of the gutter system at a small angle equal to 3-7 °, since the gutter is a gravity system. Therefore, on one side of the slope, the bracket is installed closer to the roof eaves, and on the opposite side of the slope, lower to form a slope. Then, a thread is pulled between the two fasteners, along which other brackets are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

It remains only to lay and fasten the gutters to the fasteners. The main thing is that the laying is carried out with an overlap of the edges of the trays, this is when the edge of the upper tray is laid over the edge of the lower gutter. In this way, the problems of leaks at the joints are solved. To reduce the possibility of leaks, the joints are treated with silicone sealant.

Source ko.decorexpro.com

Pipe installation

The second stage of the installation of gutters is the installation of vertical pipes. There are strict standards that determine the installation location of pipe elements. This is the distance between them, equal to 12 m. For example, if the length of the front part of the building is 12, then one pipe structure is mounted on its surface. If the length is greater than this value, but less than 24 m, then two risers are installed.

The pipes are fastened to the walls of the house with clamps in increments of 1.8 m. If the height of the house exceeds 10 m, then the installation step is reduced to 1.5 m. The clamps themselves are fastened to self-tapping screws through plastic dowels. The main requirement is a strict vertical installation. Therefore, at the installation site, first determine the vertical along the wall using a plumb line. Then, measuring the installation step, make notes in which holes are drilled for the dowels.

Installation of a pipe riser Source krovlyakryshi.ru

The assembly of pipes, the length of which is standard - 3 m, is carried out by the socket connection method. This is when one side of the pipe has a larger diameter than the opposite. That is, the pipes are inserted one into the other. In this case, a large diameter pipe is installed upwards. For one hundred percent sealing of the joint, they are treated with silicone sealant.

Between themselves pipes and trays are connected by funnels. A drain is mounted at the bottom of the pipe riser - this is a branch at an angle of 45 °. Here it is necessary to take into account that the lower edge of the drain should be at a distance of 25 cm from the surface of the soil or blind area.

An important point is the installation of a drain (riser) at the roof eaves, where bends are used. Because the overhang of the roofing material is located at a distance of 30-50 cm from the wall surface. This means that in order to connect the funnel to the pipe riser, two bends at 45 ° are needed. If the roof overhang is large, then a piece of pipe is mounted at an angle between the branches.

Connection of a funnel and a pipe riser with two branches Source obustroeno.com

How to choose the right drainage system

Just go to the store and buy a gutter system without deciding on its parameters, it's wasted money. There are certain standards regarding the size of the roof, or rather, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope from which water will be collected in the drainage system. And the larger the area, the larger the trays and pipes should be in terms of their diameter. Therefore, before proceeding to the installation of a gutter system, it is necessary to accurately select it in size in accordance with the area of ​​​​the roof slope.

If the roof slope area does not exceed 50 m², then gutters with a width of 100 mm and pipes with a diameter of 75 mm are installed in the gutter system.

The area is within 50-100 m², gutters are used - 125 mm, pipes 87-100 mm.

The slope area is more than 100 m², gutters 150-200 mm, pipes 120-150 mm.

Video description

Installation of the drainage system is shown in the video:

Heating cable in the drainage system

Ice and snow inside the drainage system create a blockage (plugs), which prevents the melted water from draining. As a result, it overflows over the edges of the trays, forming icicles. How dangerous they are, everyone knows. In addition, a large amount of ice and snow inside the trays is a high probability of the collapse of the entire structure or the deformation of its elements. To prevent this from happening, a heating cable is installed in the drain. It is a conductor of electric current that releases heat energy.

Heating cable inside the gutter of the gutter system Source rooms-styling.com

The installation of the heating cable is carried out after the installation of the roof drain. It is simply laid inside the gutters (along) and lowered inside the pipe risers. In trays, it is fixed with special clamps made of either stainless steel, or galvanized steel, or plastic.

In addition to the cable itself, the kit comes with a power supply and a thermostat. The first one supplies the current of the required voltage and strength, the second regulates the temperature of the cable depending on the weather conditions. For example, if the temperature outside is within -5C, then the cable does not heat up much. If the temperature drops lower, then the current strength inside the conductor increases, which increases heat transfer. This is what the thermostat controls.

It must be added that the thermostat itself does not determine the temperature. To do this, sensors are added to the system: either temperature or humidity.

Most often, the heating cable is installed not only inside the trays and pipes. They cover part of the roof, or rather the overhang area. Here the conductor is laid with a snake and fixed to the roofing material with special clamps. You can see this clearly in the photo below. At the same time, it should be noted that the heating cable both inside the drain and on the overhang is a single system with one power supply and a thermostat.

Heating cable on the roof overhang Source tiu.ru

Video description

How the drainage system works is shown in the video:

Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Traditionally, gutter systems were made of galvanized steel. And today this material has not left the market. They simply began to cover the galvanized drain with paint, thereby adjusting it to the color of the roofing material, creating a single design design for the house. Plus, it became possible to extend the service life due to an additional protective layer.

Today, manufacturers offer galvanized gutters, polymer coating. In this case, the polymer coating is applied both from the outside of the galvanized sheet and from the inside. This is a better protection and a huge variety of colors, not limited by anything.

Gutter made of plastic Source rooms-styling.com

Plastic gutters are the most popular today. They are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). But this material is not used in its pure form, because by itself it becomes brittle at low temperatures. Additives are added to it, which increase the strength of the polymer, so PVC gutters are not afraid of temperature extremes and sunlight. And the biggest plus is that plastic is the cheapest material.

The modern market today offers gutter systems made of copper or stainless steel.

Copper drain Source pinterest.com

Generalization on the topic

Installing roof gutters is a serious process. The main task of the manufacturer of works is to correctly select its elements in accordance with the area of ​​​​the roof slope, correctly set the angle of inclination of the gutters and correctly fasten the structural elements.

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into a storm sewer, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating a crate for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve the fastening of drainage systems after roofing. In addition, there are other situations, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is facilitated by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided for different cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, among other things, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" drains quickly became very popular with customers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, it is worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be immediately noted that each from materials from which drains are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• Plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal an option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, it is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit snugly against the windboard and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant drawback.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well, outwardly they look very elegant, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, polymer-coated steel parts are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Great care is needed when assembling and working with fasteners.

• Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly voe bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems can be called the fact that some of their parts can be much easier to fit to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. Reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, supporting brackets of various designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only as a set with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit in shape and size to the gutter.

Learn how to produce by reading the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after the roof is covered?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the points when circumstances may force us to engage in the installation of a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated details of the spotlights installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more efficient, and therefore they plan to fix the gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished, and the former owner did not provide for their installation in advance.
• Very common the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and exhausted is that the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

• If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the cornice overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along cornice overhangs

Gutter bracket types

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

• Long hooks are most often used for fastening under the roof covering before its decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid crate.
• Short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the front board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is mounted both before laying the roofing on the truss system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Ways to fix gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets on the elements of the truss system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the end, and on their upper or side sides.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the crate or on plywood (OSB) of a solid crate.
• At the edge of the roofing.

The first way - to the rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the batten. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Fastening hooks to the boards (sheets) of the crate

If the roofing has already been installed, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the bottom row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be dismantled carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without violating integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In the situation when it is equipped on the roof, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood coating. The next step bituminous tile or roofing material is returned to its original position and fixed to the surface with the help of bituminous mastic.

Video: Installation of a gutter system with edge dismantling of tiled roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks on the side of their timber. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent mounting platform turned into a horizontal plane - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are large enough in cross section, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow during heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to try on, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second way is to mount the brackets on the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For mounting a drainage system on a frontal board, the following are suitable:

• Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has large enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg of the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

• Short brackets are designed to mount them on the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as on the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be doubtful due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will hold the gutters firmly.

In addition to the usual brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function is indispensable, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Prices for brackets

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special brackets-holders. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on the side of the profile and move along the guide, with the arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this mounting system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in terms of level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is beaten off on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters per linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation site for the first bracket.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (the systems of some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area of ​​​​installation of the drain funnel, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such markings, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third way is to fasten the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing

This method is applicable to install a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Hook-holders are fastened with the help of special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to fix some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, stepping back from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling of the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave cover, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. Under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, it is recommended to place rubber pads on both the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be remade independently by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fasten the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with the previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets on the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on one that has already covered slopes, the brackets can be mounted directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
• Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of the right width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, by analogy with the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the appropriate diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If it is planned to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the downpipe funnel is provided.

• A pull-up suspension mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes such a design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which hooks the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastener is screwed into the wall or frontal board.

This type of fasteners can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fasteners are chosen, then the gutter must be closed from above with a protective net, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water from roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Gutter parameters and slope angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store to pick it up, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of an insufficiently large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. In this regard, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the slope cornice has a size of up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a drain vertical pipe. With longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to mount two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the diagram above by the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of ​​​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which a downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two guttershaving a slope towards the corners of the building, where the drains are installed.

gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm per linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what dimensions of the gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, given the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m²	Gutter cross section, mm	Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60÷100	115	87	-
80÷130	125	110	-
120÷200	150	-	87
160÷220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can also use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

The location of the drain pipe	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, downpipe 110 mm
	Catchment area, m²
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

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gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having dealt with the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and with how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays an important role in the design:

• A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be needed in two-pipe drainage systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its ends on both sides.
• Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain chute on one or both sides, depending on the selected installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to a vertical downpipe.
• Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then the elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has large enough width, due to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the drainpipe on the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the holders of the gutter and downpipe will be attached.

• Brackets-holders for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the eaves and choose the optimal installation step.
• Brackets-clamps for holding drain pipes are fixed on or into the wall with a step of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. They can be installed on each slope two or one.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools needed for the job

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required for the installation of the drain. It must be correctly understood that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will turn out to be not very neat and will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
• Hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for the installation of clamp brackets for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
• A rubber mallet (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
• Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
• Reliable ladder-ladder or scaffolding - for the convenience of work and ensure its safety.

Prices for a hacksaw for metal

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems with a hacksaw or scissors for metal, and in no case with a “grinder” (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When performing a cut with a grinder, metal or plastic gets very hot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of ​​the metal and the melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymeric protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off at a distance of up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the details drains only with those tools that above.

We believe that everything necessary for the installation of a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing pie is already mounted, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix the short holders on the windboard. And, it should be noted that many roofers find the short version of hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• Short holders do not have to be bent, as they are already ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, the work can be done independently, without calling the masters.
• The cost of short holders is somewhat lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a scheme for arranging a drain. In this case, a system with one funnel and a downpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Marking begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the windboard. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the frontal board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. The cord tied to the nail is stretched along the length of the windboard to a mark made on its opposite side.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the eaves, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is beaten off. Markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The rest of the steps are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The mounting step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme marking points, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as a stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point for fixing the hooks.
	Next, intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord with the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the windboard, the cord must be removed and the correct installation of the hooks must be checked again. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the drain without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the coating will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn scheme, is to mark the holes on the gutter for installing a funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, two cuts are made with a hacksaw at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this way they will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooked onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "lugs" that need to be bent into the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, the most reliable fastening of two parts - a gutter and a funnel will be obtained. Here it is also necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is higher.
	The next step is cutting seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, easy to bend and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals may come with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately from the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in this case the second side of this gutter will join with another segment that goes around the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be put on the metal edge quite hard. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into place.
	Instead of a rubber seal, roofing sealant can be used, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the plug. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some masters use both components for sealing, that is, they first install a sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, they also apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters in the brackets fixed on the windboard. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, it must be gently pressed so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for drains in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a latch is installed under the joint, having a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on its edge from above. From the outer edge of the gutter, it snaps into place with a special clip. To increase reliability, from the inside the joint of the gutters is covered with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer, and then smoothed out with a finger, as it should not create obstacles for the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if it is provided for by the project. The first of these is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the latch on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of home tools, it will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter with a metal strip, which is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a wide cap or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be slightly bent. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow loads and spring ice. In addition to such stretch marks, hooks are additionally screwed between the brackets to hold the gutters on the windboard, hooked only on the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the brackets-holders, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow in the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The knee is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second knee, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe, is measured. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe, which will connect the two knees. To the obtained value, you need to add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee mounted on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on its second side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid the flow of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above should go inside the bottom.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm from the resulting size will go to the docking of a flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that the standard length of the pipe, just like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the clamp brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed in increments of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are fixed on it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly by bending, which can be done with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. Plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ ​​300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drainage pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowing the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent suitable for the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the master in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

The drainage system of the house is a rather serious construction, which requires accurate calculation and competent installation, where special attention is paid to the fastening of elements. The drainage of water from the roof of the house itself consists of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The first consists of gutters (trays), which are installed along the edges of the roofing material. It is in them that water merges from the roof in the form of rain or melted snow. The second is vertical pipes connected to the trays using a funnel. Through them, water is drained either into the ground away from the foundation of the house, or into the storm sewer. Usually, the fastening of the drain begins before the roof is covered with roofing material.. But sometimes the installation is carried out after the roof is covered, for example, when the old drain has become unusable during long-term operation and it is replaced with a new one. In the two cases, the installation is done differently. And the difference is in the attachment.

Types of fasteners for gutters

As for the installation and fixing of the trays, brackets in the form of hooks are used for this. There are a huge number of different modifications, but they are all divided into two large groups: long and short. The first are designed to attach the drain to the roof, namely to the crate or rafter legs. The second to the frontal board. By the way, it is the latter that are used when the roof is already covered with roofing material.

Today, manufacturers of Eastern systems offer universal mounting brackets, the leg of which is two plates with a through groove. Both parts are interconnected by a bolt and a nut through a groove. That is, relative to this bolt, you can reduce or increase the length of the legs. When the required length is reached, the bolt is clamped, which leads to the fixation of the length.

Hooks with a long leg are also used for roofs already covered with roofing material. True, in this case they are attached not to the rafters or batten elements, but to the filing of the cornice overhang. This option does not fit into the recommendations for the construction of drainage systems. And the appearance of the cornice filing is clearly reduced in terms of presentability. But sometimes this is the only and rational way to fix gutters.

There are other fasteners for gutters of drainage systems, which are the same hook, only in their design there are other mounting elements. One of these is a bracket, the leg of which is rotated 90 ° relative to the hook. This model is usually used if the roofing material already lies on the rafter system, and it will have to be fixed to the rafter leg, or rather to its side end. Most often, this variety belongs to the "long" group. It is necessary to fasten the hook to the rafter with at least two self-tapping screws. The only requirement for this variety is that it can be used if the rafter legs have a sufficient cross section, for example, 150x50 or 120x50 mm.

Rules for fastening drainage elements

The simplest process of attaching a drainage system is associated with the installation of vertical pipes. For this, special clamps made of metal or plastic are used. A purely structural fastener for pipes is a clamp with a stand or leg. The latter are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws on plastic dowels. At the installation site of the fastener, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill or a puncher, insert dowels into them, attach a clamp and fasten it with one or two self-tapping screws. The connection is reliable.

The choice of clamps depends on how the drain will pass through the house. More often pipes are carried out directly along the wall with a snug fit to its plane. For this, short clamps are used, which are attached to the wall through a rounded plane or through a short stand. If there are protrusions in the architecture of the building, then sometimes it is necessary to carry out installation at a short distance from the surface of the walls. To do this, fasteners on the legs are used.

Attention! Fixing the drain to the wall is the easiest step in assembling the entire system. But they carry it out last, that is, after assembling the horizontal tray part.

Attachment to front board

The front or wind board is installed at the ends of the rafter legs. It protects the space between these roof elements from wind, dust, birds and insects. Attaching the gutter to this board is the easiest way to mount them. The board is in plain sight, the approach to it is not limited by anything, so there should be no problems.

In this case, both long and short brackets can be used to fix drains. The first ones are used if the width of the board is sufficient to fit the mounting legs of the hooks on it. More often used short models. A practical example is shown in the photo below:

As for the “short” modifications, manufacturers today offer several positions that differ from each other in the installation bar. In this regard, plastic models are represented by a wider list than metal ones. The latter are usually standard designs made from steel strip. But there are also special metal structures on the market, which are a hook with a small stand in which there are no mounting holes. That is, the bracket itself is not attached to the frontal board. A metal tire is attached to it, into which they are inserted. On this rail, the hooks can be moved along the eaves, setting them at the required distance from each other.

This option is convenient in that it is easier to install the tire itself at a certain angle than to do it with each element separately. After all, the drain is a gravity flow system. So, it should be installed with an angle of inclination equal to 2–7 °. At the same time, the joint of the bracket bus is quite strong and reliable, therefore, by installing it, you can guarantee the long-term operation of the gutter system at home.

The next type of brackets differs from others in the ability to change the angle of inclination of the hook itself. The latter is connected to the stand with a pin in the form of a bolt. That is, a swivel joint is used. The angle of inclination is changed by bolted thrust elements. If it is necessary to increase the inclination of the hook, then the bolts are screwed in, pressing on the delivery. And vice versa . When changing the inclination, the hinge bolt must be loosened, after setting the angle it is tightened. This modification is used when installed on an inclined frontal board, or if the gutter system is installed on a log cabin.

Fastening to roofing material

Brackets for attaching gutters to roofing material have appeared on the market relatively recently. They can only be used if the roof is covered with a strong and rigid roofing material. Mounting method - on clamps (clamps), with the help of which the hooks are fixed along the edge of the roof.

Today, manufacturers offer two varieties of this bracket model:

1. For clamps, it is necessary to drill holes in the roofing.
2. Without drilling holes, clamping is made additionally with a screw.

Let's take a closer look at the second option for fixing gutters:

The nuances of installing gutters when using this type of hook:

• the distance from the edge of the roofing material to the place of the jam is within 5 cm;
• if a modification is used without drilling the roof, then it is recommended to place rubber gaskets under the support planes of the clamp (both from the top side and from the bottom);
• if the installation is carried out to the wave material, then the installation can be carried out both to the lower waves and to the upper ones, taking into account the exact location of the clamp relative to the height of the wave;
• it is better to give preference to plastic brackets, as they are lighter, since the load from the entire drainage system on the roofing material, together with the discharged water, will be impressive, which can lead to a break in the latter.

Combined variant

These types of fasteners for gutters are a structure consisting of two parts: a short plastic hook and a long L-shaped holder, the short part of which is rotated by 90 ° relative to the long one. Holes are drilled in the short part or a groove is made through which the hook and holder are fastened together. Holes are also made in the long part of the holder for fastening the structure to the rafter leg.

How to do this correctly is shown in the example of attaching a drain to a roof overhang:

This option is sometimes the only one. For example, if the roof covering extends beyond the rafter legs to a distance of 15–20 cm. Of course, you can use a clamp modification, but the roofing material does not always allow this.

Universal option

This design is a pull-up element, which is located inside the gutter. Trays in this regard are attached to it with the help of bends located on the bracket itself. One fold clings to the outer edge of the tray, the other to the inner. The fastener has a bushing with an internal thread. A screw is inserted into it, with which both products are attached to each other and to the wall.

This model is rarely used. But, as a fastener for trays, it belongs to the category of universal, because with its help installation can be carried out both on the frontal board, and on the wall, and on the rafter legs.

Other ways to install brackets

There are other ways to fix the gutters of the drainage system with your own hands. Because it is not always possible to install them along the rafters, crate or frontal board.

Mounting method	Description
On the wall	Usually this option is used for installation on a mansard roof already covered with roofing material. The main task of the manufacturer of works is to accurately mark the installation site.
On spotlights	The option is not the best, but sometimes the only one. The main thing is that there must be a certain width of the spotlights, corresponding to the length of the holder. Often combined designs are used here.
On metal pins	This option is used in two cases: if there is no frontal board in the roof structure, the width of the soffit or filing of the cornice overhang is too narrow.

The last installation option is simple and has several options. If the gutters are installed on a wooden house, then the metal pins (with one sharp end) are simply driven into the wood. If the house is brick or concrete, then first holes are drilled in the wall with a perforator to the required depth, where the cement-sand mixture is placed, and only then the pin is hammered. Installation of gutters can only be carried out after the fastening solution has completely dried..

Video tutorials on fixing gutters

The nuances of fastening elements of the drain

1. The slope angle of the gutters is 3–7°.
2. The distance between the fasteners of the gutters is 50–60 cm.
3. The distance between the clamps of the drain pipes is 1.8-2.0 m. If the installation height exceeds 10 m, then the mounting step of the clamps is reduced to 1.5 m.

Conclusion

Before you fix the gutters with your own hands, you need to accurately carry out all the installation measurements and decide on the types of brackets. Choosing one or another installation option, you solve the issue of not only saving money, but also the strength of the entire structure.

The drainage system should be selected at the design stage of the house. This will allow you to calculate all the nuances and correctly select the desired design. Its main role is to protect the foundation of the house from rain. Therefore, it is so important to correctly determine the material from which the drain is made. On average, the service life of a drainage system is from 5 to 100 years. But with improper installation, it can fail much faster. Consider how to properly install a roof drain with your own hands.

Drainage Design Tasks

• First of all, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future roof and each of its slopes is calculated separately. Thanks to the data obtained, the required throughput of the roof drainage system, the diameter of the downpipes and the size of the gutter are determined.
• The next step is to draw up a preliminary plan for the placement of drainage elements, which will determine the sequence of work, calculate the number of components and their approximate location. For greater convenience, this is done on a copy of the roof drawing.
• It is also important to choose the right material from which the gutters for the roof are made. Due to the wide variety of options, making a choice is not so easy. To a greater extent, it depends on the general appearance of the house and the aesthetic ideas of its owner. In terms of service life, inexpensive plastic drains are practically not inferior to metal ones. But they are unlikely to look harmonious with real tiles or copper roofing.

Components of the drainage system

brackets

With their help, the gutter of the drainage system is attached to the roof. They are produced in different shapes and from different materials, but the color completely matches the entire drainage system.

Depending on the shape, they can be fixed in several ways:

• the simplest and most commonly used method is to attach the bracket to the frontal roof board. Thus, the gutter is easily installed on an already finished roof. Basically, such brackets are completed with PVC systems. Thanks to highly developed vertical ribs, they are able to withstand heavy loads. In metal structures, brackets for this type of fastening are made short. In the absence of a frontal board, combined brackets are suitable. They have steel extensions, with which they are attached directly to the rafter leg. When access to the rafters is not possible, special metal crutches are mounted into the wall, and a gutter is attached to them with the help of studs.
• With the second method of installation, the drain is mounted before laying the roofing material. The gutter is attached to the rafter leg. This method is rational for roofs with a large area, on which heavy roofing is used. For reliable fastening, the step between the rafters should not exceed 600 mm.

• The third option is optimal for roofs where the distance between the rafters exceeds 600 mm. In most cases, these are roofs coated with metal tiles or ondulin. This method involves the use of combined brackets or long hooks that are attached to the first lath of the batten or to the lower edge of the deck (if shingles are used). Only compliance with the rules and procedures for installing hooks will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutters

They also come in different forms. There is a round, semicircular, rectangular, oval or combined section. It is important that the gutters and hooks have the same shape and are from the same system.

A symmetrical gutter is considered universal, to which it will not be difficult to pick up components. This will simplify the work even at the stage of designing and calculating the required number of components of the system.

In addition, they are distinguished by the method of connection with the bracket. The fastest way to assemble will be a system with a simple snap. It is equipped with swivel latches, thanks to which it will be possible to easily dismantle a certain part of the gutter for repair or replacement.

When choosing them, linear fluctuations in their dimensions should also be taken into account (especially when choosing PVC structures). To compensate for them, couplings are produced, on the inside of which there are notches.

Tip: gutters made of PVC do not connect end-to-end - this can lead to cracks and breakage.

Despite the fact that the gutter made of metal has a much lower thermal expansion, during its installation a coupling is also used as a compensator.

To protect the gutters from icing, they are insulated or a system of electric heating cables is installed.

Seals

They are made from ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber. This is a modern analogue of the rubber mixture for the tightness of the joints. It has high elasticity, which allows you to restore its original shape even after prolonged use.

It is moisture resistant and unaffected by the environment. Most often, the seals are coated with silicone grease, which makes installation easier and additionally protects the rubber.

Drainage funnels

As the name implies, their function is to collect water flowing down the gutters and direct it into the drainpipes. In PVC systems, they are made as a separate part. In addition, the funnels are divided into left, right and through passages. The left and right have a wall that acts as a gutter plug and are installed at the end, and the through passages are installed anywhere.

In a metal drainage system, funnels can be placed anywhere, but you will need to cut a round hole under it.

They look like a short bent pipe. They are used to connect drainpipes and funnels, as well as to drain water from the foundation. On average, each drainpipe will need three elbows: two at the top and one at the bottom.

Downspouts

They can be rectangular or round. This does not affect their functionality in any way and depends only on the design of the facade of the house and the entire drainage system. Their length varies from 1 to 4 meters. The main difference between PVC pipes and metal pipes is that they have the same diameter along the entire length. This means that couplings will be needed to attach them to each other, which will lead to additional costs.

Clamps

With their help, pipes are attached to the facade of the building. They are made of different materials and different shapes: plastic with two points of support, metal with one long hardware, snapped into place when around the pipe or with screwed elements.

Materials for the drainage system

The price of gutters for the roof depends primarily on the material from which they are made. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Plastic

This is a modern material that is durable, lightweight and easy to process. The dyes that are used in its production retain color saturation throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer, which is about 20-40 years. In addition, it has a low price.

Plastic drainage systems are made from several types of polymers:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• nPCV - unplasticized polyvinylchloride;
• PE - polyethylene;
• PP - polypropylene.

They are resistant to mechanical damage and UV radiation. They are not subject to corrosion and do not require additional care.

Steel

Galvanized steel is the most popular due to its low price and availability, but has an ugly appearance and is short-lived. Much more practical gutter systems made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating. They are stronger than plastic structures, and thanks to the coating they are durable. They are made from the same material as the metal tile. In most cases, they are either white or brown, other colors are painted only on individual order.

Copper

The most expensive, but durable and beautiful material. The service life can reach IV centuries. To prevent the formation of electrolytic fumes that destroy copper, all components must be made of the same material. Contact with titanium zinc or galvanized steel is especially dangerous for her. Over time, copper changes color to green, which does not affect its performance.

Aluminum

Lightweight and durable material that can be dyed any color. Its service life exceeds 50 years.

Zinc-titanium

This light alloy has a shiny surface. It is very durable and can be used in regions with extreme weather conditions. But in working with it, you will need to follow a number of rules. Zinc-titanium should not come into contact with PVC, vapor barrier membranes and roofing material. Work with it is prohibited at metal temperatures below +10°C. This is a very expensive material, so all work must be done by professionals.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

After the material is selected, the calculation of the amount of required materials begins. Consultants in companies selling gutter systems or a roofing company that performs installation work can help you with this. But you can do it yourself.

First, the number of gutters is calculated. Their total length corresponds to the length of all roof slopes from which water will be collected. Knowing the length of the slopes, it is easy to calculate the required number of drain funnels. On average, one is installed for every 10 meters.

The number of drainpipes also depends on the number of funnels. Their length is equal to the distance from ground level to the roof.

The number of turns is determined by the feature of the facade and is calculated individually. You can always buy the missing items.

Clamps and brackets are very easy to calculate. You will need one bracket for every meter of gutter. The number of clamps depends on the height of the building, the main rule is that each individual section of the pipe must be fixed with at least one clamp.

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters on the roof

To install metal gutters for the roof, you will need the following tools:

• hammer;
• marking cord;
• universal screwdriver;
• tape measure from 3 meters long;
• pipe pliers;
• hook bender;
• hacksaw for metal.

It is not recommended to cut metal pipes and gutters with a grinder. Since the polymer coating heats up during cutting, which will lead to damage to the elements of the drain.

Installation steps:

• determination of the location of the brackets (gutter holders). The distance between them should be 40-50 cm;
• marks are made on the brackets that determine the slope of the gutter, which is 5 mm per 1 m. It is worth noting that, according to the instructions, one downpipe can serve no more than 10 meters of the gutter;
• brackets are bent according to the finished marks. The fastest way to do this is with a hook bender. Then two extreme brackets are installed, and a cord is pulled between them, along which all other holders are installed;
• preparing the gutter for installation. A gutter of the required length is assembled from the components. It is possible that for this you will have to saw off the excess with a hacksaw. But before it is installed on the roof, the parts are not fastened together. For a drain funnel, you will need to cut a hole at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the gutter in the shape of the letter V and with a diameter of 10 cm;
• the outlet funnel for the downpipe is mounted. Its outer edge is brought under the curved drainage chute and pressed tightly. Then the flange petals of the funnel are bent;

• chute is installed. Alternately, all the components of the gutter are laid on ready-made brackets and attached. Further, a cornice strip is attached to the crate in such a way that its lower edge descends into the gutter. And the edge of the roofing waterproofing starts over the cornice strip. Due to this, all the condensate that may form in the under-roof space will enter the drainage system;

• the connection of the gutters of the drain is overlapped on each other by 20-30 mm. Rubber seals provide additional tightness to the joints;
• a protective mesh is installed on the spillway, which will protect it from debris. It is mounted in the hole of the outlet funnel in the gutter and is called a spider;
• overflow limiter installation. They are needed in the places of the gutter, which are located under the fragments of roofs with adjoining;
• fastening of connecting pipes. This design involves connecting two knees of the drainage system to each other. The length of the connecting pipe is calculated individually;
• fastening of drainpipes. First, holders (clamps) are mounted to the wall of the house from below, above and at the pipe junctions. The distance between the drain elbow and the blind area is about 30 cm.

Installation of a drainage system with rectangular gutters

Their installation is a more laborious process. To connect the individual parts, you will need rivets (riveter) and sealant.

System differences:

• the weir funnel is attached to the gutter with rivets and sealant. The hole is cut cross-shaped or round.
• the plug, corners and gutters of the drain are also fastened with rivets and sealant.

Homemade gutter for the roof

For a small summer house, you can make budget weirs with your own hands. For example, by making them from galvanized drywall profiles without holes. They come in different sizes, so choosing the right one is quite simple. The profiles are folded in a “box”, and the excess is cut off with metal scissors.

Not only manufacturing, but also fixing the drain to the roof will not take much time. Mounting galvanized tape 2 mm thick with holes is fastened under the roof overhang. It is fixed on bolts, rivets or screws. Then bending the fasteners, the required level of inclination is reached.

As a result of a home-made gutter device from the roof, an inconspicuous but durable structure is obtained.

Gutters for the roof photo

Installation of gutters

Before installing the horizontal part of the drain, which is a series-connected gutters, you need to measure the total length of the eaves and mark the places where the brackets will be fixed. The distance between the brackets should not be more than 60 centimeters. If you have doubts about the strength of the design of the plastic gutter, then fasteners can be placed even after 30 centimeters, this will make the system even more durable and will not allow it to collapse in heavy rain or a lot of snow.

Then you need to determine the angle of inclination of the horizontal part of the system. To do this, you need to determine the position of the first and last brackets, and then stretch the cord between them. Following this, you need to make markings for fixing the remaining brackets, observing the interval of their placement.

The installation process of the gutter should begin from their edges, at the same time it must be taken into account that the vertical part of the drain pipe should be no further than 15 centimeters from the nearest mount.

Advantages of PVC over metal for drainage systems

Gutters for roofs of houses are made from various materials:

• polyvinyl chloride;
• steel with anti-corrosion galvanization;
• metal coated with polymers;
• copper;

The choice of a plastic gutter base is more optimal for several reasons, the main of which are: lower load on the structure of the house and lower cost.

Many people believe that metal is much stronger and more reliable than PVC, but modern technology creates a modified and reinforced plastic that can work properly in constantly changing weather conditions. Companies with their own production, including Alta Profile, add modifiers to the composition of polyvinyl chloride, which seriously increase the stability of the plastic. The advantages of plastic gutters Alta profile are many:

Wide temperature range. Plastic parts are specially designed to withstand large drops.

This is very important for the climate of Russia, when the heat is suffocating in summer, and the frost in winter is crackling and penetrating. PVC from the company Alta profile retains its qualities from minus to plus 50 degrees Celsius

Important. You can be sure that in the summer the drain will not melt, and in the winter it will not burst

High strength characteristics. Naturally, PVC is inferior to metal in this regard, but this technological material easily withstands the loads that are placed on the drain during operation. If you install all the details of the system correctly, then the plastic drain will not be afraid of heavy melted snow falling from the roof in the spring.

Durability. In this indicator, polyvinyl chloride outperforms metal - if under atmospheric conditions, with regular contact with water, metal parts, even galvanized ones, last about 7-8 years, plastic drains - about 25 years.

Low weight of the entire structure

This is important because the greater the load on the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house, the faster they collapse. Given the weight of the entire roof (rafter system, roofing material), it makes sense to choose a drainage system made of plastic

Tightness. For a quality drainage system, this is of high importance. The absence of leaks protects against the ingress of liquid on the walls, the foundation of the building. Alta Profile company creates systems with effective insulation of parts - all elements of the drain have rubber seals that prevent the flow of water even through minimal gaps. Special sealants are also used, which additionally protect against water.

Excellent conductivity. Plastic pipes have a smooth surface, which prevents the occurrence of blockages - leaves and other small debris, simply do not stick to the inner walls.

Attention. The surface is so smooth that even the ice is not able to catch on

Low noise level. PVC is made in such a way that it is well soundproofed and does not create noise when rain is removed from the roof. This is an obvious advantage over metal gutters.

Easy installation. The whole design of the drainage system is logical. When buying an Alta profile kit, the consumer receives detailed instructions to install the system on the roof with their own hands.

Great look. A gutter is not just an impersonal mechanism for removing precipitation from the roof, now it is a design element that makes the house more beautiful.

What is important, it does not set off the architecture of the building, but emphasizes all the advantageous places. In addition to functionality, the system adds neatness and style to any home.

Low cost. This indicator is important for most Russian families, especially when building their own house, when the costs are already high. Plastic gutters Alta profile is an opportunity to purchase quality products at an adequate cost.

Description of the elements of the drainage system

Before describing the installation process on the roof, you should find out what the drainage system generally consists of.

Gutters and pipes. They are necessary for the collection, removal of precipitation. Gutters are installed at the edge of the eaves so that water from the roof gets on them. They are mounted with a slight slope so that the liquid does not linger, but moves towards the pipes. Alpha profile produces these parts with a length of 3 m or 4 m. The pipe diameter is 8 or 10 cm.

Water funnels. This part, which connects the chute to the pipe, directs the liquid down. There are two types:

• internal funnels;
• external funnels.

The difference between them is that the installation of the former is more difficult - they are installed directly into the roofs (if they are sloping or straight). If the roof is pitched under a fairly steep slope, gutters with external funnels are mounted along its perimeter, which remove precipitation.

Attention. Pitched roofs are accepted in Russia, therefore systems with external funnels are used in the field of private housing construction. knees

They are used to connect funnels and pipes, they are designed to ensure high-quality drainage, because they are made at an angle of 45 degrees. There are also parts with an angle of 72 degrees

knees. They are used to connect funnels and pipes, they are designed to ensure high-quality drainage, because they are made at an angle of 45 degrees. There are also parts with an angle of 72 degrees.

At the edges of the roof, where the direction changes, corner gutters are used, most often with a right angle.

Protective grilles and plugs. The former protect pipes and gutters from getting large debris into them, which can create an obstacle to removing precipitation from the roof, the latter are attached from the edges of the gutters to isolate the system.

At the bottom of the pipe, for more convenient removal of liquid, drain outlets are mounted - being at an angle, they drain water from the roof away from the foundation.

Brackets, clamps, couplings for attaching parts to the roof and walls of the house.

The most common mistakes in the installation of drainage systems

When installing a drainage system on your own, you must carefully adhere to the technical recommendations at each stage.

This will help you avoid common mistakes:

• the distance between the brackets should not exceed 60 cm in order to avoid deflections at the maximum load on the drainage system;
• it is impossible to pinch the pipe with clamps in order to give it the opportunity to expand or contract under the influence of ambient temperature;
• if the geometry of the house contains internal corners in which a drain pipe can be located, which is rather difficult to maintain and carry out preventive measures in the future, and it is possible to redistribute water flows from the roof, then it is better to avoid installing it inside and transfer it to external corners or place it in the middle .

The presence of a drain ensures the drainage of water from the roof, protects the facade of the walls, but the final withdrawal of water can be provided by the arrangement of a system such as a storm sewer.

Mounting brackets

• gutters;
• drainpipes;
• funnel;
• additional accessories.

According to the shape of the gutter, they distinguish :

According to the material of manufacture :

Construction forms

The easiest way is to make a gutter with your own hands from painted or galvanized metal sheets. You can give it a rectangular or semicircular shape.

Most often, round gutters are installed.

You can make a semi-circular shape with a rolling tool by cutting a piece of galvanized pipe. First you need to cut the metal sheet of the desired size. To give sufficient rigidity and structural strength, its edges should be bent and connected with planks.

Similarly, you can make round pipes with your own hands. At the edges of the sheet should be bent (make folds). Then connect, and then bend with a mallet. A rectangular pipe can be made using a bending machine or a simple rail. The elements of the gutter system, made professionally, look beautiful. They can be purchased and installed with your own hands.

The resulting gutters with a slight slope are mounted around the perimeter of the roof and fixed. Connectors cut from a steel sheet are used at the joints of the gutters.

The procedure for installing downpipes made of polymer

To install a plastic pipe system for a drain, you need to perform work divided into several stages:

1. Initially, it must be taken into account that the installation of the drainage system must be carried out at a certain angle with a slope in the direction of flow in order to exclude the possibility of water stagnation.
2. Details of fastenings of the drainage system must be mounted during the construction process of the building.
3. Directly during the installation of the system, gutters for the drain are first laid, connected to each other and funnels are installed to collect water. Covers are installed at the ends of the gutters.
4. After completing this step, the vertical part of the downpipe is installed to the catchment funnel.
5. The vertical section of the drain pipe is attached to the wall on pre-installed brackets.

Features of installing a water drainage system

The gutter is fixed to the building and the roof using special brackets. As a rule, the rule is accepted, according to which the gutter is fastened every meter

When calculating downpipes, take into account the fact that every 10 meters of the gutters must be equipped with one downpipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It is very useful to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof, and even better its projection

This is due to the fact that a roof with an area of ​​100 m 2 with a slope of 30 ° will receive more precipitation than the same roof with a slope of 45 °. Specialists in the construction industry have long established that every 100 m 2 of the roof projection must be equipped with one downpipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Downpipes are also fastened with clamps, only of a slightly different type than for gutters. Very often, buildings and structures have a complex roof structure that requires additional installation of downpipes. In this regard, when calculating the drainage system, experts take into account the presence of gables, ledges, bay windows and other architectural features.

One of the cheapest options for a modern gutter system is galvanized steel systems. They have good performance properties and long service life. The main advantage that distinguishes them from plastic systems is the preservation of all mechanical characteristics, regardless of the ambient temperature. Another important advantage is their low price and ease of installation. This makes it possible, even for people with average incomes, to independently equip themselves with a high-quality and inexpensive drainage system.

Especially often the question arises of how to fix the galvanized drain to the building. This can be done very simply with the help of special galvanized clamps and brackets available on the market. One of the design features of galvanized systems is the presence of a protective polymer layer under the paint. When this polymer coating is deformed, corrosion will spread very quickly throughout the damaged area. In this regard, during the operation and installation of galvanized elements, it is prohibited to use sharp objects and tools, as well as to carry out excessive bends and other operations that are dangerous for the polymer coating.

When choosing the color and texture of the drain, special attention should be paid to the color of the roof and facade of the building. The drainage system must harmoniously fit into the design of the structure and not spoil the facade with its appearance.

Otherwise, the drain should be hidden from the back of the house, which will be the best solution if it is impossible to choose the right color. When using soft tiles, experts recommend installing a plastic gutter system. This is due to the presence of a layer of mineral chips with abrasive properties. With large flows of water, it is washed into the drain, scratching the surface of the gutter, funnel and pipes, and this, accordingly, can lead to damage to the polymer coating and the development of corrosion.

Installation of gutters

Installation of gutters

To install the gutters of the drainage system, perform the following steps in sequence :

• according to the results of measuring the total length of the cornice, the need for gutters is calculated;
• the need for consumables is calculated in order to fix the drain to the roof;
• make markings for the installation of fasteners of the elements of the drain;
• install brackets on pre-designated places, taking into account the necessary slope of the gutters towards the funnels;
• fasten gutters to the roof using pre-installed brackets.

It is important to know that in order to carry out high-quality markup, you must have the following tool: a tape measure at least 3 meters long, a skein of thread, a level, a pencil

What are drainage systems made of?

Nowadays, the most popular materials for the production of gutters are plastic and metal. Each of these materials has a number of undeniable advantages and several disadvantages.

In the near past, gutter systems were made exclusively from one material - galvanized steel. It was widely used not only for the production of pipes and drainage systems, but also for the manufacture of roofing. Despite this, in recent years, galvanized steel in the construction market has increasingly been replaced by plastic structures.

The use of plastic products in the installation of drainage systems has several advantages. For example, the polymer can be molded into almost any color shape. This makes it possible, with the help of downpipes, not only to preserve the structure of the building from undesirable moisture effects, but also to implement any design ideas.

The designer himself can choose those plastic drainpipes that are best suited for the appearance of your home and will not stand out from the general background. Another important advantage of a drainage system made from polymers is their production in ready-made kits that can be easily assembled without the help of specialists.

It should be borne in mind that any ready-made set is usually more expensive than all the elements separately. You can save on this if you do not purchase ready-made structures, but make your own drainage system by choosing gutters and plastic pipes from the widest range in the construction markets.

One way or another, you need to know that a clear disadvantage of plastic drains is a weak level of resistance to regular frost and defrosting. It is necessary to think over the design of the plastic drainage system in such a way that the water in it does not stagnate and, most importantly, does not freeze in the winter. During winter thaws, snow melting can often be observed, while at night it is still quite cold in winter.

This can damage the polymer pipes and lead to the formation of cracks in them. Of course, in addition to the plastic systems that have become widespread in recent years, drainpipes can be made of other materials. There are gutters made of copper or other alloys on the market. However, often these designs are quite expensive and can seriously affect your budget.

With all this, the majority of Russians still choose a galvanized steel drainage system, due to their reliability and simplicity. Now an alternative solution has appeared on the market - metal structures coated with a polymer. They combine all the advantages of the two materials, excluding mutual disadvantages. But this could not but affect the cost of the product, these pipes are about 2-3 times more expensive than usual ones.

Drains from plastic bottles

It is not difficult to make a drain from plastic bottles with your own hands. From the point of view of aesthetics, such a system will be inferior to those made from purchased elements and even from plastic sewer pipes, however, in terms of functionality, home-made gutters meet all the requirements.

According to the masters, bottles with a capacity of 2 liters are best suited for these purposes, although containers of 1.5 liters can also be used. The neck and bottom are cut in such a way that an even cylinder of the maximum possible length is formed. After that, the cylinders are cut in half and overlapped with each other. Fixation is provided using pieces of wire or a stapler. For vertical pipelines, the bottles are cut so that the cylinders are tapered on one side. By inserting the cylinders into each other with the help of the narrowed sides, a pipe is obtained. Funnels can be made from cut necks. Gutters from plastic bottles are attached to building elements using wire rings.

Scheme for the manufacture of drains from bottles

Horizontal gutters for additional rigidity can be installed on a wooden board pre-attached to the roof.

General rules for installing a drainage system

In order for the drainage system to work effectively, certain rules and factors must be observed.

These factors and rules include:

• accounting for annual precipitation for a given area;
• architectural and geometric features of the building, the roof on which the drain is mounted. So, if the distance between the extreme points of the roof (overhangs) does not exceed 10 m, then it is enough to install only 1 pipe to organize a drain. For larger distances, more than 1 will be required, which can be installed not only at the extreme points.
• the material from which the roof and walls of the facade are made;
• taking into account the characteristics of the material of the elements of the drain.

In addition, it is necessary to design a drainage system or make a drawing. This will allow you to correctly calculate the materials for installation, as well as identify the features of the drain at the initial stage.

Fixing the drainpipe to the wall

Gutter systems are needed to collect melt and rain water from the entire roof, thereby protecting the surface of the roof and walls of the building from premature destruction. When installing a drainage system, you will definitely come across such a thing as fixing downpipes to the wall. The reliability of your entire gutter design will depend on the correct fastening.

Why do we need grips in the drainage system?

Drainpipe grips are the key elements for securing a gutter system. This element is mounted with a pin in the wall of the building, and pipes are installed there. It is intended to ensure reliability when installing vertical elements of the drainage system and the grip should not allow pipes to deviate to the sides under the influence of wind and other power loads. To prevent rusting, the pins must be made of galvanized steel or coated with an anti-corrosion compound. Drain pipes are installed at a distance from the wall from 30 to 35 centimeters. Convenient bolted connections provide easy and quick installation of pipes. Grips are of three types:

Pin grip. Designed for fastening drain pipes to brick and concrete buildings;

Grip hardware. It is intended for installation of pipes on wooden constructions;

The grip is universal. It can be attached to both wooden and brick houses. It is also used for buildings made of sandwich panels.

For installation, you will need to know the diameter of the drainpipe and the depth that is enough to attach the tong pin.

Why do we need clamps in the drainage system?

Clamps are used to attach drain pipes to the walls of the house. This is another name for the same grip. Clamps are made of metal-reinforced plastic or metal. Metal clamps are attached with one long hardware, and plastic fixtures have two attachment points. When choosing clamps, the following points should be considered:

Also read: Why water pipes hum

The depth of fastening of the hardware, which should be at least 50-70 mm;

The distance between the front wall and the pipe, since it is forbidden to attach the pipe close to the wall of the house;

The thickness of the insulation layer on the facade of the building.

Important advice! You should never fasten the clamp in such a way that its hardware is in the insulation layer, this is a very unreliable fastening!

Rules for fixing the drainage system to the wall

During installation, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

Pipes are mounted from top to bottom:

In the wall of the house, you need to make holes for attaching the pins to which the clamps are fixed;

Fasteners for downpipes are mounted under a certain slope;

When building a new home, fasteners are installed during construction.

When installing the clamps, you need to make sure that they do not cover the pipe very tightly, especially for a plastic drain, otherwise the plastic will expand or shrink with temperature changes, and cracks will appear on the pipes.

• Fixing the drainpipe to the wall. Clamps for fastening
• Fixing a plastic pipe to a wall
• Fixing sewer pipes to the wall

Mounting brackets

The correct answer to the question of how to properly fix gutters depends entirely on the type of system and the properties of the building itself. During the construction of the drainage system, the following installation options are used :

• Mounting brackets in a horizontal plane on the roofing front board is used in the case of using plastic gutters.
• In the absence of a frontal board, the gutter is fastened to the rafter legs. If it is impossible to carry out this method, special brackets are used, adjustable in height of the studs.
• Quite often, installation is carried out with fastening to the bottom of the flooring or roof sheathing.
• The downpipe is fixed to the wall with clamps (plastic or galvanized).

The choice of mounting clamps is carried out taking into account the following requirements :

• fastening the clamp to the wall must be carried out with a hardware with a working length of at least 50 mm;
• the depth of fastening should be selected taking into account the heat-insulating layer of the wall;
• there must be a gap between the wall and the pipe.

You should be aware that when tightening the clamps, you need to leave a gap of 1 millimeter for possible thermal expansion of the downpipe due to changes in ambient temperature.

Downspout fixture

The installation algorithm for drainpipes has already been described many times on various forums and construction sites. You can use the method of mounting the pipe "from the top", or you can use the "from the bottom" option. Let's start in more detail with the first method of installing a drain.

1. Initially, it is necessary to determine the place of fixation of the uppermost fastener of the vertical part of the drainpipe. Be sure to take into account the dimension of the pipe elbow and the width of the overhang of the roof eaves. In a situation where the water intake funnel on the gutter is located quite far from the wall, it is recommended to make a bend on the vertical part of the downpipe, which can bring it closer to the wall. For this, finished parts are usually used - elbows with different angles and short pipe sections.
2. It is necessary to fix the vertical part of the drainpipe no closer than 5 centimeters from the outer surface of the wall of the house. In this case, the bracket is initially installed on the upper section. Already from it, using a plumb line, a vertical line is marked along which the fasteners for the remaining sections of the drain will be located. The distance between the brackets on the vertical part should be about a meter.
3. After installing the brackets, install a branch that will supply water from the gutter through the catchment funnel to the vertical part of the pipe.

At the end, you can proceed with the installation of this section of the drain. After fastening the vertical part at the bottom of the system, install the water outlet elbow

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the junction of the pipe and the outlet must be attached to the wall using a separate bracket. In some cases, the answer is not installed at the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe sends water directly to the storm sewer

Now consider the option of installing a drainage system according to the “bottom-up” principle.

1. Initially, holes must be drilled in the wall for mounting the brackets.
2. Marks are attached to the lower clamps (parts of the pipe with a cut corner).
3. After the previous steps have been taken, you can proceed to install the remaining links. Each part is attached with a separate clamp. If some section of the pipe is quite long, then special clamps should be installed for it. According to the rules, the interval between the clamps should be no more than 180 centimeters.

Manufacturers usually include all the parts that may be needed during the work to complete the drainage system kits. A manual is always attached to the design, after reading which you can understand how to properly install this particular type of drain. Models from different manufacturers may be mounted differently.

You may find it useful:

Choosing the location of drains and the necessary tool for installing a drainage system

The choice of a place for water drains is influenced by the length of the roof overhang. If the roof overhang is up to 10 meters long, one drain must be installed, with a roof length exceeding 10 meters, two drains are used.

The location and installation of drains depends on the type of roof and for proper installation with your own hands, you can use the diagram below.

To install a gutter with your own hands, you will need the following tool :

• spirit level (hydraulic level);
• hook bending tool;
• rope, tape measure, pencil;
• hacksaw for metal;
• rivet pliers;
• cordless drill or screwdriver;
• metal and rubber hammer;
• ticks;
• metal scissors.

Installation instructions for the drainage system

1. Installation of the drainage system begins with the installation of hooks. Basically, they come in three types: short, adjustable and long. They can be attached to the bottom board of the batten, to the rafter or on top of the rafter. For each of the cases, different types of hooks are used.
2. Calculate the angle of inclination of the hooks. The recommended slope must be 2-3 mm/m. Hooks are placed side by side, numbered and mark the fold line. Further, using a tool for bending the hooks, they are bent according to the markup.
3. The installation of the first gutter hook is carried out in such a way that the distance between the imaginary continuation of the roof and the outer side of the gutter is 20 - 25 mm.
4. Hooks are mounted at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 meters with an angle of inclination of 2-3 mm / m relative to the horizon. The installation starts from the edge of the eaves from where the slope relative to the horizon will go. The first and last hooks should be at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the edge of the roof edge.

   If the hooks are installed not on the frontal board, but on the rafter or on the last bar of the batten, then grooves are made to align the surfaces of the hooks with the surface of the rafter or batten.

5. If it is necessary to make a hole in the gutter for the funnel, then mark the desired place with a pencil and cut a hole with a hacksaw. With the help of pliers, the funnel is given the necessary shape, and the burrs are removed. The place where the metal is cut is treated with a special paint to prevent corrosion.

   The funnel is first attached to the outer bend of the gutter, and the fixing clamps are clamped from the inside. Next, the plug is installed on the end of the gutter using a rubber hammer or manual pressing. The assembled structure is installed on the hooks by pressing on each hook.

   If possible, elements such as: funnel, plugs and corners should be installed before the final installation of the gutter on the roof!

6. The connection of the gutters occurs with the help of connecting locks. To do this, a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the ends of the parts to be joined. Sealant is applied to the rubber gasket in the form of three lines: one is applied in the center, the rest on the sides. The back of the lock is attached to the inner sides of the gutters. Next, the lock is pressed towards the outside to ensure a snug fit of the gasket to the gutters. Snap the lock and fix it by bending the clamping terminals. Residues of sealant must be removed.
7. When installing internal or external corner elements, between the ends to be joined, it is also necessary to make a gap of 2-3 mm and connect using clamping locks, as indicated in the instructions above.
8. Installation of drains takes place in previously designated places. For fastening pipes to the walls, clamps are used, which are fixed with dowels. The distance between the clamps should not exceed two meters. The pipe must be at least 40 mm from the wall. Pipe cutting must be done with a hacksaw.

   If it is necessary to connect two elbows, then measure the distance between the ends of the pipes. 100 mm is added to the obtained value (in this case, “a”) for the connecting pipe to enter the ends of the elbows (50 mm for each elbow).

   The drain finish elbow is fixed to the pipe with rivets. The distance from the edge of the drain pipe to the ground must not exceed 300 mm. This completes the plumbing installation.

We bring to your attention a video that will help you understand all the nuances of installation.

This manual describes the main stages of installing a gutter with your own hands. In each specific case, it is necessary to ask the supplier for instructions, since each manufacturer has slightly different installation of gutters.

Fastening gutters to walls and roofs

During the construction of the roof, special attention should be paid to the drainage of water, for the purpose of which a drainage system is installed. Its main purpose is to protect the roof, facade and foundation from excessive water ingress.

The drainage system is fastened with clamps, which are attached to the wall with dowels. In most cases, the pitched roof of the building is equipped with a drain. It consists of the following components:

• gutters;
• drainpipes;
• funnel;
• additional accessories.

Gutters are classified according to the shape and material of manufacture. According to the shape of the gutter, they distinguish :

According to the material of manufacture :

In addition, they can have a very wide variety of colors, which allows you to choose the most harmonious option in each individual case.

During the calculations, the shape of the gutter must be taken into account, since it determines the usable area and, accordingly, the throughput. In addition, the material from which it will be made is taken into account, plastic elements during operation at low temperatures are very fragile and unreliable.

For this reason, the choice of these parameters should be approached very wisely.