Sewer pipe diameter: how to calculate. Drain height for a washing machine into the sewer: connection in the wall and to the siphon Features of plastic pipes

From this article, you can find out the features of such a communication element as a sewer drain pipe: its purpose, varieties of existing products that can be purchased in stores, their characteristics and prices. The text describes the specifics of drains and recommendations for installing a sewer riser, including instructions for dismantling the old pipeline.

Sewerage is one of the most important communication systems associated with housing water supply. For this reason, it is very important to pay special attention to the choice of components, their quality, in particular, drain pipes.

Drain pipes are used for the installation of a sewer communications system. Manufacturers offer a wide range of these products, differing from each other in material, functional characteristics and purpose.

Types of sewer pipes for internal sewage and external

Classification of existing drain pipes according to the material of manufacture:

• asbestos;
• copper;
• cast iron;
• plastic;
• reinforced concrete;
• steel;
• ceramic.

By purpose, all these products are divided into two categories. External pipes are laid outside the premises, while internal pipes are intended for the installation of water supply and sewerage in the room.

External sewerage systems are mounted outside the building or in the soil adjacent to it. Since their operation is carried out in outdoor conditions, such products must have improved properties:

• high strength;
• frost resistance;
• resistance to deformation changes;
• resistance to the influence of aggressive environments;
• resistance to high pressure on the walls.

Note! To organize an external drain system, it is better to take products made from materials with high corrosion resistance. These include painted metal, polymers and galvanized steel.

The most popular for internal sewage are pipes made of polymers. They have many advantages:

• affordable price;
• long service life;
• simple system of installation of internal sewerage;
• resistance to corrosion;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to alkali and chemicals;
• a wide range of sizes and shapes;
• light weight;
• safety.

Plastic sewerage: which pipes are better to use in the system

For the manufacture of plastic pipes, various polymeric substances are used. This product category includes elements made of polyethylene (corrugated and smooth), polypropylene and low pressure polyethylene. To determine which of them are most suitable for installing a sewer riser, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of pipe.

Features of plastic pipes:

Material type	Advantages
Polyethylene (rigid pipes)	chemical resistance
	possibility of trenchless installation
	increased strength of nodal joints
Polyethylene (corrugated pipes)	high degree of flexibility
	possibility of installation at a depth of up to 20 m due to reinforced ring stiffness
Polypropylene	affordable price
	high reliability
	simple installation system
	possibility of quick dismantling
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene)	high resistance to mechanical damage
	resistance to the negative influence of environmental factors

The choice of pipes for sewerage: dimensions and prices of products

If a drain pipe is required in the bathroom, then the use of rigid or corrugated products made of polypropylene would be appropriate. The recommended pipe diameter in this case is 40 mm. The cost of such an element varies from 50 to 120 rubles. depending on length. If the room does not have free space, you can limit yourself to one knee. A large bathroom can accommodate two knees.

To organize a drain under the toilet, it is better to buy a PVC pipe for sewage, the price of corrugated products with a diameter of 110 mm is about 300 rubles. Due to the increased flexibility, the system can be adjusted to any toilet model and conveniently connected.

Helpful advice! Experts advise choosing pipes with thick walls. Such products will last longer before they wear out.

For arranging the drain from the sink into the sewer, corrugated products are most often used. It is allowed to use diameters of 40 mm, 32 mm, and in some cases this figure can reach 50 mm. It depends on the modification of the sink and siphon. The price of such products is in the range from 250 to 400 rubles.

System of standard sizes of internal diameter:

Inner diameter size, mm	Scope of pipes
5-10	drain element used to supply plumbing to a common system
10-11	details of drains and risers
11-15	elements of risers in multi-storey buildings
over 15	connecting parts between internal and public sewerage systems

To connect the drain of the washing machine to the sewer, a special hose made of corrugated material is used, which is present as standard with this equipment. The connection is made through a siphon, and for these purposes, you can use the fork located under the sink.

HDPE drain pipes for sewerage: dimensions and price of outdoor products

External drain pipes are also used to drain precipitation from the roof into the sewer. For these purposes, it is recommended to take products with rigid walls. The optimal material is polypropylene and HDPE. The diameter of the elements is selected taking into account the dimensions of the building.

The size of products for the removal of precipitation from the roof:

Building size	Recommended diameter size, mm
	Channel	gutter
Small building	50-70	79-115
Medium sized building	75-100	115-130
Large building	90-160	140-200

Most often, products with a diameter of 110, 160 and 200 mm are used in residential buildings. The wall thickness of such pipes is 3.2 mm.

The price of sewer pipes 160, 110 and 200 mm:

Product diameter, mm	Product length, m	price, rub.
110	1	210
	2	302
	3	428
160	1	296
	2	552
	3	785
200	1	525
	2	1020
	3	1530

How to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer

Connecting the washing machine to the internal sewerage system and water supply can be done independently. This procedure should be approached responsibly, because the result depends on whether the equipment will work correctly and without interruption.

In itself, connecting the washing machine is not difficult. Difficulties arise during the organization of the drain. If the procedure is performed incorrectly, an unpleasant odor may appear in the room where the equipment is installed. In addition, there is a risk of contamination of the machine with water coming from other plumbing fixtures.

Helpful advice! For cutting metal elements of the pipeline, it is better to select a hacksaw with small teeth. Such a tool allows you to minimize the likelihood of chips. The smaller the teeth, the neater and smoother the cuts are.

Ways to organize a drain:

1. By installing a special siphon.
2. Through direct installation of the hose into the sewerage system.
3. Throwing the hose over the edge of the bathtub or washbasin.

The third way can be classified as temporary measures. In this case, you will not need to work with pipes and install a siphon, but further operation of the bathroom or sink will be accompanied by certain inconveniences. Waste water from the machine will leave traces of dirt on the floor. In addition, the method of fixing the hose is not very reliable, which is fraught with flooding. The hose break occurs during the spinning of the laundry due to strong vibration or when the pump is turned on to drain.

Features of the organization of the drain for the washing machine into the sewer

In the plumbing market, you can buy special-purpose siphons for sinks, bathtubs and sinks. They have an additional branch for connecting a hose with a diameter of 22 mm. The process of connecting with a siphon is not complicated, in contrast to the organization of draining the washing machine directly into the sewer. The fact is that pipes with a diameter of 32 or 50 mm are used for the general sewerage system. However, there is no adapter that can combine them with a 22mm hose.

To connect in this case, you should use a rubber reduction with an adapter for a 22 mm hose. If the washing machine is located in close proximity to a common pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm, you can crash into the system using a tee.

If the equipment is far away, a PVC pipe with a diameter of 32 mm can be laid between the hose and the outlet. To connect a PVC product to a common system, you will also need to use a rubber reduction. In this case, it will not be necessary to place the plastic pipe at an angle, since in this case the water is drained by force.

Note! For some washing machines, the drain hose may have different diameters at the ends. From the side of the unit, its size is 19 mm. The diameter of the end that connects directly to the pipeline is 22 mm. This nuance should be taken into account during operation.

Before work, you need to make sure that there is a non-return valve on the drain of the machine, which is capable of passing water in only one direction. If it is not available, refer to the manufacturer's information for the height level to accommodate the hose loop. In this place, you need to create a water seal so that unpleasant odors from the sewer pipe do not enter the room through the machine.

Most modern automatic washing machines have a backflow valve, so there should be no problems connecting the hose. It will only be necessary to correctly connect the end smooth pipe and the rubber reduction. In some cases, fixation is performed to an additional outlet of the siphon. To prevent damage to the rubber reduction, it must be lubricated with a liquid dishwashing detergent before packing into the socket. Thus, the element will be easier to install in a smooth nozzle.

If an additional siphon outlet is used for connection, then it will be enough to remove the factory tube and install the nozzle from the hose in its place. To ensure sealing, a special coupling is used. It will seal the joint. The factory tube in the siphon is intended only to maintain the performance of the elements.

If the length of the standard drain hose is not long enough to make a tie-in, an increase can be made by adding a piece. To connect these parts, it is recommended to use fittings. Insurance with steel clamps will not interfere. The optimal size of these elements is 2.7x1.6 cm. Modular hoses are available for sale to meet any requests regarding distance. These products are divided into fragments 50 cm long.

Note! The longer the hose, the more difficult it will be for the sewer pump in the apartment to cope with the movement of water.

How to connect the drain of the washing machine to the sewer through the water supply

It is much easier to connect a washing machine to the water supply than directly to the sewer. To do this, the piping system with the water supply must be located at the unit. In addition, the presence of shut-off valves is required. It can be in the form of an angled or straight screen.

The drain hose has a pair of clamp type nuts. Therefore, on the shut-off valves and on the washing machine, there must be a fitting with an external thread for fixing these nuts. Their working diameter is ¾ inch. For this reason, valves must have threads of the same size. A special tap corresponds to the same parameter, in contrast to the distribution of the plumbing system, which is much smaller. For such cases, a reducing fitting is needed.

Specificity and types of pumps for sewage in an apartment for the kitchen

The pump for pumping has the form of a plastic tank, similar to the toilet bowl. It has threaded holes that are used to connect pipes.

Internal parts of the pump:

• engine;
• automatic starting device;
• chopper.

The pump has a simple functioning system. Water coming from household appliances or from a sink enters a plastic tank. When the container is full, a switch is activated, equipped with a float, which starts the motor and chopper knives, if any. The crushed remains of garbage, together with water, are driven through the filter system, and then, under pressure, enter the sewer.

There are several types of sewer pumps for the kitchen, which differ in purpose and characteristics:

• sanitary (simple devices under the sink);
• forced sewerage stations;

• stationary.

Sanitary pumps are not capable of removing hot water and most often do not have knives. Their operating temperature is only 35-40 ºС. For the kitchen, it is better to take forced sewage stations that can handle large volumes of liquid, perfectly grind organic waste and have high power. Stationary devices are suitable for installation in the pantry, however, they are rarely used in an apartment.

Installing a sewer pump at home

Installation of the sediment under the sink is carried out in the following order:

1. The outlet tube is disconnected from the sink.
2. A mounting bracket is installed on top of the rubber gasket on the sink, which is included as standard with the pump.
3. The body part of the device is connected to the sink drain using polypropylene pipes.
4. By means of plastic pipes, a connection is formed between the outlet of the central sewer system and the pump housing.
5. Connecting the device to the mains.

Note! It is not allowed to combine several pumps into one network.

Installation of a pressure pump is also possible in other places. For this, open areas of the room, niches or cabinets located under the sink can be used. At the same time, you can choose an inclined or vertical position to place the pipes, because the liquid will move by gravity.

How to clean your own sewer in an apartment or in a private house

Most often, blockages of a local nature occur in apartments. You can get rid of them yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. But if a clogged main pipe has become the source of the problem, you cannot do without the participation of utilities, because the consequences can be serious. With private houses it is much easier, since there is no risk of flooding the neighbors on the floors below.

How to clean the sewer in a private house or apartment:

1. By chemical means.
2. With the help of mechanical action.
3. hydrodynamic method.

The chemical way to eliminate blockage involves the use of specialized products based on acid or alkali. These include products of such brands as Mole, Domestos, Tiret, etc. Before use, be sure to check for compatibility with the pipe material.

If chemicals do not help, you need to use a plunger, which will allow you to mechanically remove the blockage. If there is a hard object or a rag in the pipeline, a plunger will not help. In this case, a plumbing cable is required. It is made of metal and is able to pick up a stuck object. Before using it, you need to remove the siphon. Hydrodynamic cleaning is used in cases where other methods. It must be carried out by a specialist.

Of the listed types of pipes, plastic products are considered the most practical. If the elements for the pipeline are selected correctly, the system is able to last for a long time.

With this publication, we open a series of articles "piping in the bathroom", which will address the issue of installing rough plumbing in the bathroom, bathroom. The first stage is the design and installation of sewerage.

Why sewer? Yes, because all subsequent wiring depends on it. If water supply pipes are usually not difficult to stretch to any point in the bathroom, then it is a little more difficult with sewer pipes. The presence or absence of ducts depends on the drain pipes, because of the need to observe the slope towards the riser, all the little things must be taken into account, including the height and location of the bath. In other words, the entire wiring of rough plumbing directly depends on the sewer pipes.

Planning (dimensions of plumbing fixtures)

In general, this stage is partially intertwined with the planning and design of the bathroom as a whole, but let's try to state everything in order.

Even at the stage of creating a project (even if it's just a picture in your head), you need to analyze the possibility of installing a bathtub or toilet bowl, a shower cabin and other things. After all, the installation of a toilet bowl necessarily requires laying a pipe of 110 mm, and therefore the erection of boxes or other measures to hide this pipe. Like it or not, the D110 pipe cannot be hidden in a gate in any way and you will have to reckon with such an important point.

Often, in new buildings, an unacceptably high outlet of the vertical riser is made, and if the required slopes of the sewer pipes are observed, then simply the outlet to the bath (for example) will be located above the bottom and this will be a gross mistake. Therefore, you will have to think about reworking the common, vertical riser.

In general, planning includes an understanding of the process of the entire sewerage installation even at the design project stage. To begin understanding, let's define the standard dimensions required for certain plumbing fixtures.

Toilet. In general, the height of the outlet under the toilet is not so important - there is a wide variety of fan pipes, with which you can use it without problems. If there is an idea to hide all the pipes in a box along with a fan pipe, then you need to start from a specific model of the toilet bowl.

The pictures below show the average dimensions of many toilets. The information is given for a general idea and when designing, it is still recommended to take into account the dimensions of a particular model.

For models with a direct drain, the height of the outlet axis from the floor is on average 175-180 mm.

When planning, you should take into account the so-called "comfort zone of the toilet" - the distances to the left and right for convenient use, so that when sitting, the legs do not rest against walls or other objects. It has been experimentally established that a gap of 25 centimeters on the sides satisfies the requirements of "users" even of large build.

Bath. When organizing a drain hole for a sewer pipe for installing a bath siphon, it is important to consider the maximum height of this drain. The height of the drain must not exceed the height of the bottom of the bathtub at the point of attachment of the siphon, otherwise the water drainage will be very poor or the remaining water will stand on the bottom.

For most baths, the height from floor to bottom can be 13-15 cm. It is easy to calculate that for a bath with a "clearance" of 15 cm, a sewer pipe is 50 mm. should be located no higher than 12.5 from the floor (height along the axis of the pipe, the upper edge is at a height of 15 cm), in fact it is better to make the drain a little lower, if possible.

Considering that it is necessary to observe the slopes of the pipes, the maximum height of the axis of the drain hole of 12 cm is quite low. It happens that due to the vertical riser tee being installed too high, there is no way to observe all the slopes and withdraw drain on the bath is not higher than its bottom. In this case, options are considered with the alteration of the vertical riser and the lowering of the tee or a decrease in the slope of the horizontal pipes. There were cases when a "podium" of 10 cm was erected for the bath to ensure normal flow - this option is rather an exception.

slopes. To calculate the slopes of horizontal sewer pipes, it is customary to follow the instructions of SNiP 2.04.01-85. However, due to the insufficient volume of discharged water, the calculation does not make sense. Therefore, this document should be guided by the following standards:

In cases where it is not possible to fulfill condition (33) due to the insufficient amount of domestic wastewater flow, undesigned sections of pipelines with a diameter of 40-50 mm should be laid with a slope of 0.03, and with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm - with a slope of 0.02.

I would like to add from my experience: for the drainage of several plumbing fixtures (washbasin, bathtub and kitchen sink), it is quite enough to observe a slope of 1-1.5 cm per 1 m of the D50 pipe. Of course, it will be correct to observe 3 cm by 1 m, but sometimes this is problematic (as is the case with a bathtub and a high tee).

Wash basin. It is generally accepted that, by default, sewerage is taken out of the wall 50 cm from the floor to the washbasin. However, this size is more applicable to washbasins with a cabinet ("moidodyr"), for a sink on a leg it is not necessary to raise the outlet from a horizontal pipe. It is worth noting that not all cabinets have a size of 50 cm from the floor along the axis of the pipe. Some washbasins are designed for different outlet heights.

It is worth noting that for a high-quality installation of the “moidodyr”, it is necessary to observe the height of the sewer outlet so that the top drawers of the cabinet do not touch the sink piping. Therefore, it is desirable to know the mounting height in advance. If there is no water data, do it at a height of 50 cm from the floor.

It would be dishonest to keep silent about the fact that for the installation of a cabinet-washbasin, it is possible to provide an outlet near the floor, when the pipes are closed with a horizontal box, and the cabinet is partially sawn.

For the sink in the bathroom, you can use pipes from D32, but still it is better to look at a diameter of 50 mm., And save smaller sizes for difficult to solve, non-standard situations.

Drain for washing machine. For a washing machine, the height of the sewer outlet is not at all critical, well ... if you do not bring it up to the ceiling (just kidding). In a grooved wall, in a box, near the floor or at the level of the upper edge of the machine - the main thing is that it is technically convenient and looks aesthetically pleasing. D40 and D50 pipes are suitable for draining. It is quite possible to use D32, but then, theoretically, during the drain, a slight pressure may form in this pipe and this can lead to leakage in the collar joints of the pipes.

Accessories for installation of sewer pipes

Consider the various corners and joints for plastic sewer pipes, with which the installation is carried out.

Tee 90 degrees, diameters: 32, 40, 50, 110 mm. One of the main and most common spare parts. It is used for the organization of drainage to the toilet and in other solutions. Often one hears from "very experienced" plumbers that the outlet to the toilet should not include a horizontal lounger (pipe) at an angle of 90, otherwise there will be constant blockages. I can state with all responsibility: this is not so - in my practice there are a great many connections of the toilet bowl with such a tee and during operation there are no hints of blockages.

In general, plumbers have a rule: if possible, do not make 90 angles on the "canal", it is better to put two corners of 45 each. This is true and it is worth adhering to this rule, however, in the case of a toilet bowl, in 9 out of 10 cases it is technically more convenient to make a connection with a 90-degree tee. And there is nothing wrong with that!

Coupling transitional eccentric 110-50 mm., popularly referred to as the "bottle". Designed for transition from the 110th pipe to the 50th. In the sewerage of the bathroom, it is used, as a rule, after organizing the outlet to the toilet - then the 110th diameter without the need and installation continues with the fiftieth.

In the photo above we see the assembly assembly: cross 110-110-110-50 and "bottle". Thus, the output to the toilet is organized, the continuation of the D50 lounger to the left and the output of the D50 upwards. The top output in the above example is used for draining the washing machine.

When purchasing a cross, you need to be careful: they differ in left and right.

In addition to the cross and bottle, there are many variations of transitions from 110 mm. by 50 mm. Most of these connectors vary in left and right. Some examples below:

Unlike tees 110 mm., for a diameter of 50 mm. and less is better to use smooth 45 degree corners - technically there is no barrier to using two 45 degree angles instead of one 90.

Regardless of the diameter of the pipe (32, 40, 50 or 110 mm.), 45 and 90 degree angles are not the only ones. There are angles of 30, 67, 87 degrees. Thanks to them, various installation tasks are solved when, according to the idea, it is necessary to turn the pipes at an angle other than a straight one.

It is worth noting that recently a great many variations of angles and transitions have appeared, it is almost impossible to show all the existing ones.

Increasingly common sewer pipes and fittings white colors. They fit perfectly with the gray ones and differ only in the color of the wall thickness. The walls of these pipes are thicker, so the movement of wastewater is more silent.

Now we will discuss the fastening of pipes. Standardly, there are two types of brackets for fixing sewer pipes - adjustable and non-adjustable.

Non-adjustable plastic clips are mainly used for wall mounting, because there is no possibility to create a slope when mounting on the floor. Although the "savvy" master will find a way to fix the clips on the floor, at different heights - if there is no way out, you can attach the clips to bars of different thicknesses.

Clamp sizes are standard, for pipes D32, D40, D50 and D110.

A pipe clamp on a stud gives more room for action: diameter adjustable to a small extent, adjustable height of mounting on the floor or mounting on walls. These fasteners are very versatile and are suitable for any pipes, not just sewer ones. Dimensions suitable for plastic sewerage:

"1" (adjustable diameter 32-36 mm. for D32 mount)

"1¼"(38-43 mm for D32 socket and D40)

"1½"(47-51 mm. for socket D40 and for D50)

"2" (57-61 mm. for socket D50)

"4" (110-116 mm for D110)

The studs of these clamps are found in different lengths, with M6-M10 thread. Sometimes it is convenient to purchase a long hairpin separately and make the desired length yourself.

Fasteners should be placed near the sockets (or on the sockets directly). Usually one fastening per one horizontal elbow is sufficient. When mounted on a socket (as in the first photo of the publication), the assembled pipes will be difficult to disassemble without loosening the clamps, this must be taken into account.

Mounting Features

Actually, most of the information has already been told, it remains only to assemble the purchased components in accordance with the design idea.

The pipes are assembled from the riser (inlet pipe) towards the consumer. In other words, pipes are installed first, which are closer to the point of discharge into the common house riser.

In each connection, the pipe should enter the socket of the previous one by about 50 mm. If the cuff in the socket is too tight and it is impossible to insert the outlet, then you need to lubricate the cuffs with liquid soap or detergent - things will go much easier.

Plastic pipes are cut by any improvised means: a grinder, a hacksaw for metal. You can even cut with a regular wood saw. The main thing is to clean the cut edge from all kinds of burrs - burrs inside the pipe will provoke a blockage, and burrs outside will not allow you to assemble the parts normally.

Some craftsmen practice applying silicone to the cuffs of the assembled parts - supposedly the joint is even more airtight. I would like to note that the cuff connections that any sewer plastic pipe is equipped with do an excellent job without silicone. Therefore, it is still recommended to refrain from amateur performance.

In some situations, it is necessary to fix two parts together so that during operation one does not come out of the other. It is categorically impossible to do this with the help of self-tapping screws, which some masters twist into the end of the socket. The sharp tip of the self-tapping screw sticking out inside the pipe will collect hair and cause blockage. If for some reason the assembled assembly experiences mechanical stress "to undock" - you need to fix both parts with brackets or other fixing methods.

To form and control the required pipe slopes, it is very convenient to use a laser level. By constructing a horizontal beam a little higher than the horizontal bed, you can control the slope by substituting a tape measure on the controlled areas and comparing the distances from the pipe to the beam.

On this, in principle, and all. We have considered the main points of the installation of sewerage in the bathroom, perhaps I will add something over time.

Making a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands + photo

Today, there are a lot of gutter systems in hardware stores that are made of metal and plastic, and you can buy any set - from a well-known manufacturer, and from a very young company. Such systems work well, and in terms of design and operational characteristics they meet all the requirements. But factory systems have one big drawback - the high cost. For 10 meters, even the cheapest drain will have to pay 11,000 blood. Installation of a drainage system for a medium-sized cottage will cost at least 55,000 rubles. Not everyone can afford such amounts, and it’s a pity to give such money only for this element. There is a way out - to make a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands.

The cost of such a product will be 5-6 times lower than the factory one, but the price will largely depend on the material chosen. In addition, if you have little experience, there is a chance that you will only spoil the purchased pipes and additional elements.

To make a gutter with your own hands, you can use the following types of materials:

Let's take a closer look at the last option:

• Sewer pipes are made from the cheapest plastic, and often not primary, but secondary. Also, they are not affected by ultraviolet, they do not thaw or freeze, they do not contain mineral dyes.
• Well-known manufacturers of drainage systems set others on top of some extra charges for brand promotion, but this does not apply to sewer pipes.
• Fine shapes and decent looks will make drain production difficult and you will need special machines as well as multi-part molds, and a set of fixtures can contain dozens of units.
• High quality is possible due to the fact that the process is controlled at each stage of material production.

Making a drain for a roof from sewer pipes is the only acceptable option in all respects, which is why we will talk about it in this article.

What function should the drain perform?

Regardless of what material the drain is made of, it must necessarily protect the foundation and basement of the house from melt and rain water. If the ground near the house becomes waterlogged, this can cause premature damage to masonry building materials or subsidence of the foundation of the house. If the bearing performance of the base decreases, this will become a huge problem, and it can only be replaced when cracks appear on the front wall of the house. Restoring the strength of the foundation is extremely expensive and difficult, and only professionals can perform such work. But believe me, even they cannot give a 100% guarantee that the activities performed will be beneficial. Other functions of the drain (collecting water in a container, decorating the facade of the building) are secondary and will not affect the safety and duration of the operation of the building.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a drain from sewer pipes

Before you start work, you should understand some technical issues in order to avoid annoying mistakes and improve the performance of the structure.

Components of a drain

This analysis was additionally created in order to know about the purpose and operating conditions of each element of the water drain, in order to avoid mistakes in the independent manufacture of the structure.

• Step number 1 - preparation of tools and materials. Pipes with a diameter of 11 cm are good for draining, but most factory systems are made with a diameter of 10 cm. This is a universal size that is used for most homes. If you have very large slopes in area, then for a straight section of the gutter, it is worth installing not one funnel to drain water, but several at once, at a distance of 6 to 8 meters from each other. The standard length of sewer pipes is 2.5 meters and is made of polypropylene.

Note, that one should understand the difference between pipes for external and internal sewage.

Some inexperienced craftsmen believe that pipes for external sewage will not deteriorate from ultraviolet rays and low temperatures, as they are installed outside the house and connected to an external main. Indeed, such pipes are intended for external sewage, only they are usually installed in trenches, and not in open space. And yes, there are no UV rays in the trenches, as well as low temperatures, but there are large mechanical loads. In order for the pipes to withstand them, the walls were made thicker, and the price became higher. There are no additives so that the rays of the sun and negative temperatures do not harm, no. So, for a drain, it is better to buy pipes that are designed for internal sewage, since they are several times cheaper.

You will need to calculate the footage of pipes, and at the same time you should know the length and height of the building. Two gutters can be made from one pipe at once. Be sure to find out how many turns you will have, and at what angles they should be, the number of bends with different angles of rotation, plugs and tees. So, 1 meter of pipe costs about 200 rubles, and ten meters will be about 2000 rubles. This is much cheaper than buying a factory drain system with the same length.

To work, you will need a circular grinder and several thin discs for metal of a selected diameter. Bulgarian should choose the minimum. Cutting plastic does not require a tool with great power, and working with a light grinder in one hand is much easier. So, prepare in advance hardware, a tape measure, rulers, a metal bar, measuring and locksmith tools. It is advisable that you draw a sketch in advance, once again think over and count everything.

Helpful advice! To get started, try to make a drainage system for not the most important buildings - a bathhouse, a garage, a workshop and more. So you will gain experience and understand how the manufactured system will look at the facility.

An additional important nuance is that a rubber ring must be installed in the end of the pipes, which will seal the plug. Screw the screws so that they do not damage the rubber ring, but press the pipe socket. About 4 cm should be retreated from the end, but the specific distance will need to be measured independently, as it may vary somewhat due to differences in pipes from different manufacturers.

• Step 4 - labeling. Yes, this is for pipes, so that you can cut them into two even halves. Everything should be marked with a felt-tip pen, since the pencil simply does not draw on plastic. You will need to apply a straight line throughout the pipe.
• Step number 5 - sawing. It has already been said above that it will be tedious to hold the grinder with one hand, and fix the pipe with the other. As you cut, the pipe will move towards the tool. If it is so difficult to work, you will have to do everything with an assistant who will hold the pipe, and the master will work with the grinder with both hands. By the way, this is exactly how it is recommended to work on TB.
• Step 6 - deburring. The disc does not cut, but melts the plastic, and therefore large burrs remain on it, which can be easily removed. Some use disc grinding for this, but we do not recommend this method, as the disc will remove old burrs and leave new ones, and the plastic will melt due to high speeds. For this reason, the work is carried out without a tool, and they simply cut everything off with a mounting knife or break it off manually, but then you have to make an effort. The third option is to use an abrasive disc and work manually with it. If the cut is wavy, then it is desirable to straighten it immediately. Don't be discouraged, another pipe will be much better and easier to cut, and a gutter that is a little damaged can be installed on the back of the house where it won't be visible.

In the same way, continue to cut the remaining pipes for the gutters. Two gutters should be connected using self-tapping screws, and in places of overlap, be sure to install rubber gaskets in special technological grooves.

The parts of the connection of the gutters of the drain from the sewer pipes are the most dangerous, since it is in this place that leaks most often occur. The problem is that the gutter is long and the little effort on one side increases 10 or more times through the mounting brackets, so it works like a lever. The second end can be slightly shifted. In order to fully eliminate the possibility of leakage, we recommend using a sealant. You can buy the cheapest one, since UV resistance is not required, the material will not be outdoors, but a half of the pipe will lie on top and protect it. But be sure to pay attention to the indicator of plasticity and adhesion.

funnel making

This element is one of the most complex in the system, and for its manufacture you will need to prepare:

• Turn.
• A piece of pipe of the required length.
• End cap.
• Cross for connection.

So, first you need to assemble all the elements into a single structure, and also re-check the length of the pipe section. Further, individual parts can be fastened with self-tapping screws. Remember to always lubricate the joint surfaces with sealant, as rubber seals are not very reliable. Next, find the middle of the structure, make lines on both sides, and then cut the structure along them with a grinder. Don't forget to remove the burrs. Work carefully, don't rush. Pay attention to the fact that individual parts do not move when cutting.

Advice: it is better not to cut the end caps in the gutters into halves, but leave them whole, so they will be held more firmly. To do this, you do not need to cut the pipe socket along the axis, but cut the half along the circumference. The appearance of such a gutter will differ from the standard one.

Water will be diverted to a storm drain, which is buried in the ground, and rainwater will be useful for watering plants in a summer cottage, especially if you do not have a centralized water supply. Almost all elements of the water drain system are prepared, and you can start making metal brackets.

Bracket manufacturing

Prepare a metal strip with a thickness of 0.2 cm and a width of 2 cm. Measure the length of the brackets, which should be equal to the length of the section fixed to the rafter system and half the circumference of the gutter. In order not to be mistaken, we recommend using a soft wire. You need to make a template out of it, adjust it several times to the optimal position. When everything is in order, we align the wire and measure the length. Experts recommend making a margin of 3 cm. We make marks on a long strip and cut blanks for brackets, and then make holes.

Drain installation

If the ramp has a short length, and they help you, then the brackets can be attached to the gutter while still on the ground, and an already assembled structure can be installed on the roof. You will need to work very carefully, during installation there is a possibility of damage to the assembled gutter. Do not forget that a slope will be required for the water to drain, for every 10 linear meters about 3 cm. More is not needed, because otherwise the gutter will be too far from the roof and water will not enter it.

Collect the drain pipes, attach, and put the other end into a container to collect water. Vertical pipes can be attached to the wall with clamps, but it is not necessary to over tighten. It is desirable that they be in a place where they will rest against the protrusions of the sockets. If there are buildings near the houses, then tape the plastic pipes to them with tape.

Helpful advice: in order to 100% exclude the possibility of depressurization of the vertical joint of pipes, self-tapping screws should be screwed in at the junction. They will not let the pipes fall out under their own weight.

Manufacturing of hook bender

The method described above is considered extremely risky for fixing the gutter, and it is advisable to use the traditional one - first fix the hooks, and then install the gutters on them. But sometimes it can be extremely difficult to bend homemade metal strips correctly, and in order to simplify the process, use such a simple device as a hook bender. To do this, you will need to buy two pieces of a square pipe, the length of which will be 0.3-0.4 meters. Select the cross section of the pipes in such a way that they go into each other by about 0.8 cm. For example, the width of one pipe is 3 cm, and the second is 2.5 cm. You need to carefully clean the ends of the pipes, remove all burrs and level the plane. A bracket should be inserted into the gap between the pipes, which will control the size of the gaps. Insert the bracket into the slot.

Helpful advice: the width of the gap should be slightly larger than the thickness of the metal bar, and this will make it easier for you to use the fixture. Not all planks made of metal are perfectly flat, usually there are small bends. The increased gap will make it possible to bend them in the fixture without problems. To get the required dimensions between the metal strip and the fixture, you will need to insert a piece of sheet iron with a thickness of about 0.1 cm over the plank. After you grab everything by welding, you can get it out.

When you grab everything at the bottom with the help of electric welding, carry out a similar operation from the second end. Next, remove the bracket and weld the pipes as firmly as possible, and then clean the scale. Now the device is ready for use, and it will be extremely easy to work with it. The blanks according to the mark should be inserted into the hook bender, while holding the fixtures with one hand, and bending the part at the required angle and at the specified distance with the other.

The device will make it possible to make not only a smooth bend, but also at a different slope. To do this, the workpiece does not need to be pressed against the side wall, but only slightly turned to one side. Depending on the angle of rotation, the bend angle will change. Over time, you will gain experience, all hooks will be bent to exact dimensions, taking into account the roofing features and the drainage system.

Conclusion

It will take one, maximum two days to create a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands, and the financial savings will be very large. The only drawback of the system is that sewer pipes are very afraid of ultraviolet radiation, and if you have the opportunity, we recommend that you take measures to protect the plastic from sunlight, otherwise the system will not be able to "live" for more than 5 years.

Drenched neighbors, bad smells in the apartment, standing water in the bath - all this may be the result of improper selection of sewer pipes and installation with violations. You need to figure out how to avoid this.

Types of sewer pipes

For internal sewerage, gray PP pipes are used.

There are three main materials from which sewer drain pipes are made: cast iron, ceramics, and plastic. The first two materials are used for the manufacture of risers, sometimes they can be found in the wiring of old apartments and houses, and external networks of ceramics have also been preserved. Plastic is a more modern material. It has its drawbacks: worse heat resistance, sound insulation properties. However, polymers are distinguished by durability, reliability, low cost and ease of high-quality installation.

In practice, two main types of plastic are used: polypropylene and polyethylene. Polypropylene is highly heat resistant and can be used in homes with hot water drains. Polyethylene is suitable for outdoor sewerage systems laid underground.

Dimensions and design

Socket connection

Pipes are distinguished by outer diameter, length and wall thickness. The diameter is used to select fittings. Wall thickness is a less important parameter. In accordance with the sewerage project, a specification is drawn up: how many and what kind of pipes are required for the facility, how many connectors and gaskets for them, clamps, and other assemblies are needed.

Based on the needs of one family, when laying a conventional drain network, diameters of 40 and 50 mm are used, and for draining toilets and laying risers - 110 mm. 40 mm is suitable only for a separate connection of a washing machine or dishwasher, 50 mm for all other cases. Such diameters allow you to easily clean the drain with a plumbing cable.

Pipes can be straight or bell-shaped. Straight lines are spliced ​​along the length using fittings. No fittings are needed for flare fittings - you can get a system of any length without using any connectors.

Smooth sleeves are usually used when laying horizontal wiring, bell-shaped - for laying risers. Corrugation is also used. It is convenient to use for connecting sinks, household appliances.

Connecting elements

Types of fittings

When laying a socketless pipeline, various fitting connections are required:

• drives;
• tees and crosses;
• squares;
• bends;
• revisions;
• adapters.

Squares are found in 15-degree increments, usually using 45-degree angles. Turns of 90 degrees are undesirable, as the likelihood of blockages increases. They also try to put the bends not straight, but at 45 degrees, given the possibility of cleaning through the opening of the plumbing fixture, the flow from the bend should enter along the flow in the main pipe. Revisions are built into other fittings. The adapters are asymmetric - the smaller hole should be higher when mounted longitudinally.

All connecting elements have seals-gaskets that ensure tightness. They must exactly match the diameter of the pipe and the type of fitting.

Installation of internal sewerage pipes

Sewer wiring example

Before proceeding with the installation, you should have a project in hand. It is done in accordance with the location of plumbing fixtures, the design of the room, the location of the main risers in the house. You can order a project from professionals with a license and work experience, but for a private house you can do it yourself - draw up a drawing and specification for it.

There are two basic rules for installation: ensure a slope of at least 1% and install without reducing the diameter. In practice, they make 2%, with a margin, but no more. Installation without narrowing the diameter implies that it is possible to exit from a 50 mm network to another network of 50 or 110 mm, but not to 40 mm.

Pipes are laid according to the drawing, marking the walls and floor. Everything must be fixed on clamps, adjustable supports and racks. Fasten every meter, but at least two points per segment. Access to revisions should be provided, cleaning with a cable should be thought out. Only one pressure pump is allowed on one line, that is, the washing machine and dishwasher must have different entrances to the riser.

Under the sinks, you need to put siphons or install water seals from corrugated pipes so that odors do not penetrate into the room.

Use a special roller cutter. The place of the cut is cleaned with a file, they also perform a lead-in chamfer. Having lubricated the connection gaskets with petroleum jelly, insert the pipe into them and fix them in pre-installed clamps according to the markings. Some types of toilet fittings require the additional use of silicone sealant. At the last stage, turn on the water and check all joints for leaks.

Every homeowner needs to understand how a sink drain system works. This will allow you to independently disassemble it and carry out preventive maintenance. Equally important is the correct choice of fittings. After all, its quality affects the operational life of all plumbing equipment. What nuances should be taken into account?

How is the drain

A pipe for draining water from a sink is a part that connects the entrance to the sewer and the drain hole at the bottom of the bowl. This is a mandatory element, the installation of which is carried out when installing a bath, sink or shower. It is a prefabricated curved structure, consisting of the following elements:

• exhaust pipe;
• body, or glass;
• cuffs and seals made of rubber or plastic;
• protective metal grill on the drain hole;
• fixing screw;
• plastic nuts.

There are also plums with overflow. They differ from ordinary ones in the presence of an additional drain hole located above the main one. It is connected to the siphon body by a corrugation. The overflow prevents the sink from overflowing and water from pouring out of the bowl.

The drain pipe performs different functions. For example, it provides timely and prompt transfer of dirty water from the sink into the sewer. It also filters out small debris, hair. In addition, the siphon prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer into the room. The part is designed in such a way that a natural water barrier (water seal) is formed in it.

Kinds

Depending on the shape and configuration, bottle and pipe types of plums are distinguished. A bottle is a device in which a water seal is created by two cylinders immersed in each other. First, the water passes through the inner tube of the siphon bulb. Then it enters the sump and rises into the drain pipe through the gap between the cylinders. Further - in the sewerage.

Pipe drain systems do not have a bottle-like body. They consist of one curved pipe in the shape of the letter S or U. The water backwater is formed by bends. Such designs are rarely used, since they do not have a sump. The advantage is easy installation. Flexible corrugated pipe takes any shape.

Depending on the location, there are sinks with a central and side drain. In the first case, the drain hole is placed in the middle of the bottom of the bowl. Thanks to this, water does not stagnate in the sink. The disadvantage of this location of the drain pipe is that you cannot install furniture or household appliances under the sink.

In the second case, the drain is located on the back wall of the bowl. It is convenient in that the body of the siphon can be taken out of the sink. The sink can be installed above the cabinet or washing machine. The disadvantage is that the water does not completely drain from the bowl. Lime deposits form on the bottom of the plumbing.

Manufacturing materials

The material of the drain pipe is an important selection factor. It affects the functionality of the valve and its service life. The most commonly used metals and their alloys are brass, copper, cast iron. Advantages: strength, resistance to household detergents, durability, safety for health. Disadvantages: suitable for the manufacture of pipe-type drains only. Products have a rigid shape, so it is difficult to install.

Recently, plums have been made from strong, lightweight, and inexpensive polymers. They can be given almost any shape. Due to this, the range of pipes is very wide. The products are highly resistant to corrosion. Disadvantages: the service life is much less than that of metal ones. If the washbasin is actively used, plastic pipes have to be changed frequently. The material is corroded by aggressive household products. Dirt and debris settle on the corrugation. Also, the weak point is the connections between the elements (due to the low waterproofing properties of plastic).

Features of choice

The performance of drain pipes depends on how they are arranged, on the pressure of water from the mixer and household appliances (dishwashers, washing machines). The larger the volume of drained water, the larger the cross section of the outlets and the device. For example, if the sink is installed in the kitchen, then it is advisable to choose a part with a 40 mm outlet pipe diameter. Food residues will pass through the drain system. Gradually, they accumulate and clog the pipes.

When choosing a pipe for draining water from the sink, consider its type, diameter, as well as the force of water pressure.

When choosing fittings, be sure to evaluate the quality of its manufacture, completeness, reliability of the screws, nuts and gaskets supplied. If you're on a budget, stick with the standard white plastic model. It is cheaper, easy to install and stable in operation.

Drain Assembly

The process of connecting the drain depends on the type of siphon design. Its general algorithm is presented below.

• A drain pipe and a mesh with a gasket are fixed on the drain hole of the sink.
• The main part of the siphon is assembled (if the element is glass type) and attached to the sink with a screw. It is connected to the branch pipe with a rubber cuff and a nut.
• A drain pipe and a rubber seal are inserted into the sewer socket.
• Water is supplied for a short time. The tightness of the device and its connections is checked.

Mechanical removal of blockages

The sink drain pipe may be clogged. Cork removal is carried out depending on the type of construction. If the drain is a glass type, there is a lid in its lower part. Unscrew it and take out the debris with your hands. If it is made in the form of a corrugation, remove it from the sewer pipe, free it from the clips and straighten it. If necessary, push the blockage with a cable or wooden rod. Do this carefully so as not to damage the corrugation.

If the siphon is not separable or a plug has arisen in the sewer pipes, it can be eliminated in two ways: mechanical and chemical. The simplest mechanical method is a plunger cleaning. Take a small amount of water into the bowl. It should cover the drain hole. Plug the overflow hole. Put a rubber bulb on the drain and make a few active movements. If the water is not gone, repeat the procedure. Once the blockage is cleared, fill a pot with hot water.

With a serious traffic jam, a plumbing cable will help to cope. Proceed in the following sequence: pass the end of the cable into the sewer through the drain hole. Slowly turn it clockwise. Make sure that the cable does not sag or twist during operation. When reaching the stop, perform several reciprocating movements. This will destroy him. Then the cable must be removed and washed with water.

Chemical removal of blockages

If there is no plumbing cable, remove the blockage chemically. For this, there are special formulations. Before purchasing a product, make sure it is suitable for your type of pipe. The most popular are "Mole", "Tiret", "Mr. Muscle", etc. They are produced both in the form of a dry powder and in liquid form. The principle of their operation is the same.

Clean the pipes as follows: scoop out the water from the bowl. Pour or pour the product into the drain hole. Leave the sink in this form for 1.5–2 hours. After the specified time, fill the sink with a small amount of water. Perform several active pushes with a plunger. After these manipulations, the water forms a funnel and goes into the sewer. Wear gloves when using aggressive substances. Avoid contact with clothing or skin. If this happens, flush the affected area with plenty of water.

Blockage Prevention

Maintenance of the sink drain system comes down to the prevention of blockages. It consists of the steps below.

• Periodic heat treatment of pipes. To do this, it is enough to pour a pot of hot water or boiling water into the sink 2-3 times a week.
• Prevent food, hair, etc. from getting into the sink. To do this, install a mesh on the plumbing fixture.
• Correct selection of the diameter of the sewer pipe. The optimal values ​​​​are at least 40-50 mm.

Pipes for draining water from the sink are of different types and may include a siphon of complex design. In all cases, the principle of connection and further maintenance is the same. When choosing fittings, give preference only to high-quality materials - metal, plastic. Carefully check the conformity of the pipe sections, use rubber gaskets and sealants. Remove minor blockages promptly. A plunger, a plumbing cable and chemicals will help you with this. If the plug has formed deep in the sewer pipes, seek help from specialists.