Do-it-yourself repair and modernization of Lentel, Foton, Smartbuy Colorado and RED LED lights. How to repair a LED Chinese flashlight yourself. Do-it-yourself LED lamp repair instructions with visual photos and videos Elect

Hi all! Reviews on Mysku of this flashlight or shocker inspired me to buy it as a dog repeller. The device came to me partially working: the flashlight shone, the shocker sparked, but the battery did not charge from the network. Therefore, the lantern was dismantled, as a result, I myself was somewhat shocked by its internal contents, although I assumed that I would see something similar. My review is an addition to existing reviews, that is, a description of the internal structure of this shocker flashlight.

I bought the flashlight after the review, it was my second order from TinyDeal. An order came to me after about 50 days, a “simple” (in the words of postal workers) parcel without any registration - even mail notifications are not sent to such parcels. This is the first time I received such a package.

Brought home, unpacked, inspected, checked. The flashlight works, the shocker sparks very loudly, which is what I needed. Of the defects, I immediately noticed a crack on the plastic glass that covers the flashlight, and in general the glass itself is somehow unclear. He shook the lantern - it seems that nothing is hanging inside him.

I involuntarily experienced the shocker on myself when I pressed the "start" button once, without making sure that the "shocking" was turned off. It so happened that I was holding the flashlight by the body, and my hand slightly went over the “crown” of the flashlight. The electric shock was strong enough, without a spark discharge, and the campaign broke through the plastic of the crown, since I did not touch the contact plates. I have been repeatedly shocked by voltage sources from 110 volts to 30 kV (the scars have not disappeared yet), and in general I am not very sensitive to this, since the skin on the fingers is quite rough. I estimate the “shocking” effect of the flashlight as quite strong, approximately equal to an electric shock from a 220 volt network. 380 volts hit me only once, and this was perhaps the most dangerous case. The kilovolts in this shocker are purely for the visible effect, and so that the clothes are pierced. If the goal is to shock, not spark, then a voltage of 500 volts would be enough, given that this would increase the current strength significantly. Well, the place of application of the current is very important.

After playing with the flashlight for a bit, I did not bring it to a full battery landing, but still decided to charge it: it was interesting what happens when you plug the flashlight into the mains for charging. It turned out - nothing! Nothing at all! The LED on the end of the flashlight handle did not light up, and by all indications, charging was not going on. Okay, I check the cord (who ever thought of making the cord so short?!) - the cord is in order. So why isn't it charging? Flicked the switches - the result is zero. The review says that charging from the network goes only when the switch on the end of the handle is “On”, but in my case nothing has changed.

Without much hesitation, I unscrew the two self-tapping screws that secure the plastic back of the lantern to the metal one. With a little effort, I remove this plastic part from the lantern. And there…

I took pictures after I took everything apart, so some of the pictures come as if “ahead of it”.

I haven’t seen such a collective farm for a long time ... the wires from the terminals for connecting the charging cord are soldered to the capacitor and the rectifier assembly hanging on the capacitor leads. The wires from the output of the rectifier assembly go deep into the device.

The capacitor even crumbled the body material due to excessive bending of the output.

And the main thing is that all this is not isolated by anything, even just a coil of electrical tape over a conder with a rectifier. If we consider that the wires are thin, and the quality of the insulation does not suffer, then it is quite possible to expect a short circuit and fireworks. There is no fuse. Self-tapping screws protruding inside the lantern, fastening the back cover, can also lead to a short circuit inside the lantern. It's good that at least the wire connections to the BB converter are isolated, I would check what is there, soldering or twisting, but I forgot to do this.

Next, we look more closely inside the back cover, and we find that the charge indication LED is soldered through a resistor to the terminals, that is, it should light up immediately when external power is applied, and burn all the time while the flashlight is connected to the network. The review says that the LED goes out when the battery is charged - is there really a charge controller in that lamp? I doubt something, maybe there is an inaccuracy in the review? Well, it’s clear that the switch does not need to be switched to “On” for charging, it is included in the BB circuit of the generator, and not charging the battery.

But why does the LED not light up when external power is applied? It is unlikely that it is faulty like this, since new. Ah... Here's the thing... The LED, along with the wire going to the rectifier, just fell off the terminal stupidly: bad soldering. Well, it’s clear now why there is no charge, and the LED does not light up. Solder.

But since I partially dismantled the lantern, I could not stop there. Moreover, I have already seen the end of a plastic cylinder, inside of which two wires went. I guessed that this is a 400kV high voltage generator, as its description on Aliexpress says (review). But if there is a voltage converter, then where is the battery? I pulled the voltage converter towards me - it did not really resist, and I decided that the high-voltage wires were long enough that I could remove the converter. And indeed, I took it out, but only together with the BB wires, which turned out to be very short, and which, it turns out, I tore out of the “crown” of the lantern. It was a surprise, because I thought that the BB wires were soldered to the contacts, but it turns out that soldering is a luxury in this case (in Chinese).

Well, I tore it out and tore it out ... It is impossible to put the explosive wires back without further disassembly, so I continue to gut the lantern. From the side of the handle you can see a plastic part - the holder of the button and switch, fixed with a retaining ring.

Just in case, I twisted the BB wires, leaving a gap of about 1 cm between their ends - if I decide to check the operation of the BB converter, it will not burn out due to an excess voltage at the output, which would be if the ends of the wires are separated in different directions. I could not stand it, and checked the discharge in disassembled form - there is a discharge.

But how to remove the plastic "crown" from the lantern? Moved it, I feel a slight backlash. At first I thought that the crown was glued, but it turned out that two self-tapping screws were hidden under a black strip with an inscription pasted on the edge of the metal part of the lantern. I peeled off the strip, unscrewed the screws, removed the crown, and after it a plastic “bucket” with an LED fell out onto the table, as well as a very remarkable battery.

At first, looking at the battery, I was very surprised: was it really produced in 2010? But for bourgeois, the first digit is usually the year of manufacture, and it turns out that the battery comes from 2013. Since the flashlight arrived charged, then perhaps the battery is not so bad, at least in terms of self-discharge. Its type and capacity from the "FEIYU 3.6v 1" marking are unclear, but it is 100% nickel-cadmium, and for three of its series-connected cans, I measured about 3.8V. What capacity can it be? To prevent the battery from dangling, it was pressed with a fabric pad (visible in the photo). No insulation, not even one layer of electrical tape.

Also, there is no insulation in the super-duper LED driver - resistor, and a moving resistor could easily short out the battery. But the fact that the resistor is present, as I understand it, is already good, sometimes they don’t put a cut. I wrapped a little electrical tape around the rezyuk.

I understood the reason for the appearance of a crack on the glass of the lantern: this is a self-tapping screw that entered the side surface of the transparent “glass”. The reason is the crooked installation of the “glass” - if it is placed evenly, the self-tapping screw only slightly touches its end, and does not lead to cracks.

Began to collect the lantern back. When disassembling, I completely in vain removed the “snap” (slider) from the flashlight mode switch, and the plastic sleeve with the switch and the shocker on button turned inside the flashlight housing.

At the same time, the top of the button popped out, and it took me some effort to return it to its place, turn the sleeve to the desired position and put the slider on the switch.

I must say that during the fuss with the disassembled lantern, I was mentally prepared for the fact that poorly soldered wires would fall off the switch or button, but nevertheless the soldering survived, even though I pulled the wires in the process of examining the lantern.

I stuffed the high-voltage generator back into the lantern housing, stretched the wires to the crown. When screwing the back cover, the screws pass through the plastic of the high-voltage generator housing, preventing it from chattering. The wires to the aluminum contact inserts in the crown are not connected in any way, the design simply provides some small distance between the BB wires and the crown contacts. In this case, it is impossible to guarantee whether there is or not an electrical contact - this is the will of chance. If there is contact now, then with strong vibration, blows of the lantern when the wires fall, they can “run away”, and an extra spark gap will appear. At the explosive wires of my generator, the cores were even slightly deepened into the insulation, respectively, in addition to the visible external discharge, small discharges also occurred along the way inside the plastic crown, as evidenced by the burn marks left by the discharges on the aluminum inserts. To prevent aluminum inserts from popping out during vibration, etc., it is advisable to grab them with glue.

To increase the likelihood of electrical contact between the BB wires and the plates, I cut the insulation so that about 0.3 mm of the central strand of the wire stuck out of it, inserted the wires into the holes in the crown, and hoisted the crown into place. This operation had to be repeated, because a couple of times when installing the crown, the wires slipped out of my destinations. There is no way to fix the wires better, as they are too short. It was possible to drip glue, but I didn’t, you never know you have to disassemble (almost for sure).

Well, everything seems to be ... So far I have assembled the flashlight, everything works, shines, sparks, but has not yet charged, and the main question is how long it takes to charge this battery of unknown capacity. If anyone has worked with this and knows its capacity, please tell me. I did not find any similar ones.

Even before opening the lantern, I wrote on TinyDeal that the lantern was faulty, not charging, I attached a couple of photos in which the lantern was plugged in, and the “charging” LED was off. The reaction of the store was interesting. In general, after some dispute with TinyDeal, I was offered a $7 refund in the form of TD points. Or, when ordering over $45, TD promised to send another such flashlight-shocker free of charge, which is very strange: this flashlight has long had the status of “sold”. Since I already looked after one flashlight on TD (just a flashlight, without a shocker), I agreed to a refund of 7 bucks, especially since I don’t plan to buy anything big there in the near future.

Maybe someday, if I can get my hands on it, I'll remake this flashlight for a lithium battery with a USB charging controller and a normal LED driver, and maybe with a different LED. True, in order to put a more powerful LED, it will be necessary to grind out a heat-removing adapter to replace the native plastic holder. The main question is what kind of lithium-ion battery or battery of batteries will fit here, what format? Certainly not 18650, so perhaps installing a more powerful LED does not make sense.

Perhaps the first modification of the flashlight will be its alteration to charge the battery from a voltage of 5V from USB, you just need to install a resistor, maybe even plug a mini-USB connector into the flashlight. The charge time will be decently reduced, although this time will need to be controlled by yourself, but most importantly, the likelihood of fireworks when charging from the mains will decrease. Haven't done it yet.

I plan to buy +9 Add to favorites Liked the review +24 +58

POLICE series flashlights are now very popular, which can be purchased both on the market and by ordering on the Internet. In addition to a good flashlight, this device has the function of a stun gun.

With a rather loud crackle and a visible discharge of electricity, it effectively causes even large dogs to run away.

Although the device looks quite high quality, over time, it stops working from falls or from the rapid discharge of the battery. In such cases, you want to do something to return the lantern to its former life.
And sometimes it can be done, the question remains, how to disassemble this device to get to its insides? From the outside, this seems rather difficult, since the case looks cast and impregnable.

This article will describe how to disassemble one of these lights and possibly find the cause of the breakdown.
Since the lanterns are structurally almost the same, the disassembly method is also suitable for other models in this series.
Start by removing the protective tape for the mounting screws. The photo shows how to do it.

It happens that this film falls off over time.
So, using a suitable screwdriver, unscrew all the mounting screws, both in the front and in the back. Usually there are only four of them.

Next, pull the back part until it is removed.

There you will see wires going inside the device, charger elements and a piece of foam for more density.
Everything has a hinged installation and is rather flimsy. Therefore, be extremely careful not to tear off anything and make it worse.
Here is a diode bridge quenching the capacitor and soldered connections, and not insulated.

Now let's remove the front. Just pull it to the side - as with the back - and it comes out easily.

Two wires are pulled out of it - these are high-voltage conductors, through which electric current flows to the front spark gaps.

Strange, but they are not even soldered, but simply inserted into the holes opposite the electrodes. Apparently, even without direct contact, the voltage breaks through the necessary distance for the formation of an arc.
The rest of the front is essentially a normal reflector. When it sits in place, the LED hits exactly in the center, appearing to be inside the reflector.
Let's go back to the back. We extend the bridge with the capacitor as much as possible and take out the high-voltage coil filled into the compound from the inside.

When you pull this coil, two high-voltage wires go inside the lantern from the back side. They need to be aligned, then this procedure will be easier.
As you can see in the photo, these conductors are simply pushed into the internal holes of the case from the coil to the front electrodes.

This is how the extracted high-voltage coil looks like.

Push the wires back when assembling, a thin copper wire tied to them will help. You will need to tighten both ends at the same time.
With the back part figured out, go back to the front.
We pull out the panel with the LED and behind it we find a battery pack assembled in one design.

They look like micro fingers, but have a slightly shorter length.

There are five of them in total and they are connected by metal plates, as if welded to their conclusions.

The whole block is placed in a polyethylene casing.
It has some inscriptions on it. Namely, the voltage, which is six volts, and the date of manufacture. It turns out that each element has 1.2 volts, like a conventional AA battery.

From this we can conclude that if you want to replace the battery, you can pick up something. The main thing is to stick it inside the lantern body.
From the battery to the LED, the voltage goes through a resistance that has a value of about 15 ohms.

This photo shows the interior space where the battery should fit.

There is not much space, but you can pick up something.
Assemble the lamp in reverse order. Given the extremely unreliable assembly, everything must be done carefully so as not to tear off the wires and avoid short circuits between them and on the case.

Many have various Chinese lanterns powered by a single battery. Like this:

Unfortunately, they are very short lived. About how to bring the flashlight back to life and about some simple improvements that can improve such flashlights - I'll tell you later.

The weakest point of such lamps is the button. Her contacts are oxidized, as a result of which the flashlight starts to shine dimly, and then it may stop turning on altogether.
The first sign is that a flashlight with a normal battery shines weakly, but if you click the button several times, the brightness increases.
The easiest way to make such a flashlight shine is to do the following:

1. We take a thin stranded wire, cut off one vein.
2. We wind the wires onto the spring.
3. We bend the wire so that the battery does not break it. The wire should protrude slightly
above the swirling part of the flashlight.
4. Tighten tightly. We break off the excess wire (tear off).
As a result, the wire makes good contact with the negative side of the battery and the flashlight.
shine with proper brightness. Of course, the button with such a repair remains out of place, therefore
Turning the flashlight on and off is done by turning the head.
My Chinese worked like that for a couple of months. If you need to change the battery, the back of the flashlight
should not be touched. We turn our heads away.

RESTORING THE FUNCTIONALITY OF THE BUTTON.

Today I decided to bring the button back to life. The button is in a plastic case, which
It's just pressed into the back of the headlight. In principle, it can be pushed back, but I did it a little differently:

1. We make a pair of holes with a 2 mm drill to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Now you can unscrew the case with the button with tweezers.
3. Remove the button.
4. The button is assembled without glue and latches, so it is easy to disassemble it with a clerical knife.
The photo shows that the movable contact has oxidized (a round garbage in the center, similar to a button).
It can be cleaned with an eraser or fine sandpaper and assemble the button back, but I decided to additionally irradiate this part and the fixed contacts.

1. We clean with a fine sandpaper.
2. We serve with a thin layer of places marked in red. We wipe with alcohol from the flux,
collect the button.
3. To increase reliability, I soldered a spring to the bottom contact of the button.
4. We collect everything back.
After repair, the button works fine. Of course, tin also oxidizes, but since tin is a fairly soft metal, I hope that the oxide film will be
easy to break down. Not without reason, on light bulbs, the central contact is made of tin.

IMPROVE FOCUSING.

What is a "hotspot", my Chinese had a very vague idea, so I decided to enlighten him.
Unscrew the head.

1. There is a small hole in the board (arrow). Using an awl, twist the filling,
at the same time lightly press your finger on the glass from the outside. This makes it easier to roll out.
2. Remove the reflector.
3. We take ordinary office paper, punch 6-8 holes with an office hole punch.
The diameter of the holes of the hole punch perfectly matches the diameter of the LED.
Cut out 6-8 paper washers.
4. We put the washers on the LED and press it with a reflector.
Here you have to experiment with the number of pucks. I improved the focus of a pair of flashlights in this way, the number of washers was in the range of 4-6. On the current patient, it took 6.
What happened in the end:

On the left - our Chinese, on the right - Fenix LD 10 (at a minimum).
The result is quite pleasant. Hotspot became pronounced and uniform.

INCREASING THE BRIGHTNESS (for those who are a little versed in electronics).

The Chinese save on everything. A couple of extra details - an increase in cost, so they don’t put it.

The main part of the circuit (marked in green) can be different. On one or two transistors or on a specialized microcircuit (I have a two-part circuit:
choke and a 3-leg microcircuit similar to a transistor). But on the part marked in red - they save. I added a capacitor and a couple of 1n4148 diodes in parallel (I didn't have any shots). The brightness of the LED increased by 10-15 percent.

1. This is how the LED looks like in similar Chinese. From the side you can see that there are thick and thin legs inside. The thin leg is a plus. You need to navigate by this sign, because the colors of the wires can be completely unpredictable.
2. This is how the board to which the LED is soldered looks like (on the reverse side). Foil is marked in green. The wires coming from the driver are soldered to the legs of the LED.
3. With a sharp knife or a triangular file, cut the foil on the plus side of the LED.
We sand the entire board to remove varnish.
4. Solder the diodes and the capacitor. I took the diodes from a broken computer power supply, and soldered a tantalum capacitor from some burnt hard drive.
The positive wire now needs to be soldered to the pad with diodes.

As a result, the flashlight produces (by eye) 10-12 lumens (see photo with hotspots),
judging by the phoenix, which in the minimum mode produces 9 lumens.

And the last: the advantage of the Chinese over the branded flashlight (yes, don't laugh)
Branded flashlights are designed to use batteries, so
with the battery down to 1 volt, my Fenix LD 10 simply won't turn on. At all.
I took a dead alkaline battery that had served its time in a computer mouse. The multimeter showed that she sat down to 1.12v. The mouse no longer worked on it, Fenix, as I said, did not start. But the Chinese - it works!

Left - Chinese, right - Fenix LD 10 at a minimum (9 lumens). Unfortunately, the white balance is off.
Phoenix has a temperature of 4200K. The Chinese is blue, but not as bad as in the photo.
For the sake of interest, I tried to finish off the battery. At this level of brightness (5-6 lumens per eye), the flashlight worked for about 3 hours. The brightness is quite enough to illuminate under your feet in a dark entrance / forest / basement. Then for another 2 hours the brightness decreased to the level of a "firefly". Agree, 3-4 hours with acceptable light can solve a lot.
Let me take a bow for this.
Stari4ok.

Z.Y. The article is not a copy-paste. Made in me, especially for "NOT DISAPPEAR"!

No, after all, miracles do not happen ... A good flashlight cannot be bought cheaply. This is an axiom. But it has no reversibility. A high price is also not a guarantee of quality.

Well, the lyrical digression is over, now about the flashlights.

The flashlight I want to talk about now is probably the record holder for participating in reviews. This is one of the most common models in Chinese stores. COVEX lens, CREE diode, lots of lumens, cheap and nice enough design. These flashlights are bought by almost everyone who chooses an inexpensive flashlight.

I did not become an exception. This flashlight was my first zoomable flashlight with a Covex lens.

Everything on the seller's website was very beautiful: a lot of photos, descriptions, gifts for simpletons who suddenly buy a lot of this g ..., photos of production and many, many certificates (ha ha). Looking ahead, I’ll say that the flashlight, of course, is a basement-knee assembly made of incomprehensible materials, and everything on this seller’s page is a hoax.

Facade of some kind of production.

Here is a photo supposedly from the production of flashlights. I don't know where the seller scammed this photo...

Unreadable certificates. Of course, not to this product and not to this production.

This is how this flashlight shines:

In fact, something like this flashlight and shone. This is with the lens fully extended. When retracted, an even circle of light with a clear boundary was obtained. That's why I like zoom flashlights. Here the seller did not deceive, but this is not his merit, this is a COVEX lens.

Outwardly, everything is beautiful, nothing to complain about. The flashlight came with a cartridge for three AAA batteries. The diode inside was, of course, not a CREE, but some incomprehensible, seemingly ordinary EPISTAR, but with a square luminous surface. It shone well, brightly (looking ahead, I’ll say that not for long), so I planted AAA elements with incredible voracity. At the same time, the flashlight did not heat up at all.

Now I have already gained experience, but at that moment I did not understand what was wrong with the flashlight. I just had a native extension ring for this flashlight, which allows you to put a Li-Ion 18650 battery in it. then blue light. After examining the diode, I saw that it turned black, obviously due to overheating. I disassembled the flashlight. This is where everything fell into place.

Here is an almost complete dismemberment, I did not remove only the sealing rings.

There are no complaints about the body. Aluminum is clearly factory, quite decent. Let's put it aside.

Yes Yes. Only a super-greedy pervert-sadist could think of such a thing. Sharpening this aluminum module is, of course, more expensive by a few cents. And the fact that the LED will burn out very quickly from overheating does not bother anyone. That is, the one who came up with the idea to do this knew in advance that the reliability of this product would be zero and the buyer would not be able to use it.

Oops, a spring in the back. Strange, they could save a tenth of a cent here too.

What about the driver? Naturally... no.

There is one detail in the driver - postings. But what reliability. He won't burn. What an elegant piece of work.

Etched some number. A! that's why there is a spring, this finished factory product was bought ready-made, already with a spring.

But the incomprehensible "left" LED. It's already burned out, poor thing...

This is the part that is the culprit. Even if it were the same shape but made of aluminum, it would still be bad. She is irregularly shaped.

Let's talk about the shape: there is a hole inside it and the LED board rests on a small threshold, the contact area of the aluminum LED board and this ring is very small. And through this ring, heat should be removed to the body. Under the LED board there should be a flat area with a maximum contact area. With zoomed flashlights, heat dissipation is already a big problem, not only would the thermal contact here be minimal, but there was no heat dissipation with the plastic part at all. This plastic part must not be used.

Let's finally admire the light-and-black pattern ... and into the trash.

What's next? To grind a new ring (heat-removing module) and buy an LED and a driver? Such a solution to the problem could be if I had a lathe or a good turner friend. I’m not going to order just a turner to the factory, taking into account the prices they break. It will be cheaper to buy another flashlight. The option is gone.