Trowel for aerated concrete do-it-yourself drawings. Making a trowel for laying aerated concrete blocks. Wall chaser for gas silicate blocks

How to make a planer for aerated concrete with your own hands? Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in construction. The construction of walls from such material takes place quickly and efficiently. When using blocks, it often becomes necessary to level their surface, for which a special planer is used.

Aerated concrete blocks are of high quality and even shape, however, surface correction is sometimes necessary.

Building blocks have a fairly good geometry, but with all their high quality, surface adjustment is indispensable. The planer for these purposes has a very simple design. You can make a planer for aerated concrete without any problems.

Features of using planers for aerated concrete

An important advantage of do-it-yourself aerated concrete masonry is the use of adhesives that provide a small joint thickness. If, with large layers of mortar, it is possible to level the row plane due to different indentation of individual masonry elements, then when using adhesive compositions, this is not possible and all block size errors accumulate when laying the row. This property of aerated concrete masonry makes it necessary to level the blocks themselves.

Aerated concrete is fastened with a thin layer of adhesive composition and this does not allow leveling the plane with the depth of indentation of the blocks.

A planer is generally a tool for leveling a surface by planing. When processing wood, planing is carried out by cutting off a thin surface layer of the material. This method does not work for aerated concrete. It has a porous inhomogeneous structure, so cutting off a thin layer will lead to tearing out of inhomogeneities and significant surface roughness. Sometimes it is possible to use an ordinary planer to level aerated concrete with a minimum overhang of the cutting edge, but it quickly wears out and becomes unusable.

For high-quality surface treatment of aerated concrete blocks, it is necessary to combine the functions of a scraper and grinding. This principle should be laid in a do-it-yourself aerated concrete planer.

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Due to what alignment occurs: features of aerated concrete

In order to design a device for processing aerated concrete, it is necessary to understand the basic parameters of the material. Aerated concrete blocks are made on a cement-sand basis with the addition of gypsum, lime and slag, into which a gas-forming composition (aluminum paste) is introduced to create gas pores. After hardening under special conditions, the material acquires a solid structure, in which pores up to 3 mm in size are evenly distributed. One of the varieties of porous aerated concrete is aerated concrete based on lime and quartz sand with a small amount of cement.

Aerated concrete is cut into standard blocks that have fairly stable dimensions. Blocks are mainly sold with a size of 250x625 mm and a thickness of 50 to 500 mm. Particularly stable block geometry is observed in gas silicate concretes. When laying walls, the following block thicknesses are normalized: for load-bearing masonry - 38-40 cm; for interior walls - 25 cm; for facing works - 10 cm.
When processing the surface, the strength and hardness of the material should be taken into account. The cement-sand base leads to a rather high abrasive wear of the tool. The strength of the blocks depends on their density, which varies widely depending on the porosity (from 300 to 900 kg/m3). The strength in this case varies from 10 to 50 kg/sq.cm.

Structural blocks with a density of over 700 kg/m3 have the highest strength. Such blocks are used in the laying of load-bearing walls of large buildings and tall structures. More often, blocks with higher thermal insulation properties are used, having a density of about 500 kg / m3. Aerated concrete with a density of 400 kg / m 3 has a significantly lower strength and hardness, but it must be processed with caution due to the high content of pores.

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Planer design

Branded planers can be made from wood and plastic, or entirely from metal.

Aerated concrete planer is needed to align a number of blocks when laying walls from them. Their task is exactly as much material as is required to ensure the horizontal surface of the row. If too large a layer is removed, then such a block will have to be thrown away, since it will be very difficult to correct the situation. In this regard, the main requirement is put forward to the cutting elements of the planer. The height of these elements is set on the basis of work practice, therefore, consultation with a specialist is recommended.

If you consider any branded planer, you can see that in appearance it is a combination of a construction grater (half-grater) with a kitchen shredder. In other words, this is a platform (body) with a handle, at the bottom of which sharp blades are fixed in rows, and the rows are located in two different directions. On one side there are 5-6 rows of parallel knives directed at an angle to the edge of the body, and on the other side there are the same rows, but oppositely directed. The blades themselves are fixed vertically in the body.

This design of the device allows you to scrape the material from the surface of the block, while grinding it. The body material in branded planes is usually durable plastic. The tools are simpler made of wood. As practice shows, the material of the case does not matter if it is strong enough. The design of the handle matters only for the convenience of work, i.e. it should be well grasped by the hand of a person.

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Homemade design

To make a planer, it is necessary to put the maximum available materials into the design. The body, the easiest way is to make it wooden. For these purposes, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm and a width of 10-12 cm is suitable. Any handle that is available can be fixed. If it has to be made, then it is better to do it from a wooden board or bar.

Hard alloy files should be used as cutting elements for aerated concrete planer with your own hands. Wood saws can be used if foam concrete or aerated concrete with a density of not more than 500 kg / m3 is processed.

To make a planer for gas blocks, it is necessary to glue wood and metal together, as well as wood to wood (if necessary). Usually, Moment glue is recommended for such a connection. At the same time, any adhesive composition capable of reliably gluing metal is suitable.

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Planer making

A wooden base for a homemade planer, due to its lightness and availability of material, will be the best option.

Do-it-yourself planer for leveling aerated concrete is made in the following order. A board 30-40 cm long is cut off. The cut board is processed with a planer. All edges and corners are rounded or simply cut off. The location of the cutting elements is marked. The markup is done as follows. On one side of the board (on an area of approximately 40% of the total area of the board), 5 parallel lines are drawn at the same distance from each other. The lines should be at an angle of approximately 70° to the longitudinal axis of the board (tilt to the right of the crosscut). The same lines are drawn on the other side of the board, but with an inclination to the left. The lines in different halves of the board should be directed towards each other.

The jigsaw makes cuts along the marked lines. The width of the slot must be sufficient to accommodate the saw blade. Cuts are made, stepping back from the edge of the board by 2-3 cm on both sides. The board is carefully processed with an emery cloth. The saw blade is broken into pieces of the desired length and inserted vertically into the slot. Before placing the file in the cut, its blade must be carefully coated with glue. The length of the saw blade over the surface is about 5 mm, but it is better to consult a specialist in each case. The area where the file is placed at the base is treated with glue. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to check the quality of bonding of each cutting element with the base. All excess glue is removed.

If the cutting edge of the file is not sharp enough, then it should be sharpened with a file.

The aerated concrete planer will be ready after fixing the handle on the top side of the base.

Given the relatively high cost of the instruments, many wondered whether it was possible to make them yourself. The article provides instructions that describe in detail how to make a tool for laying concrete with your own hands.

The use of aerated concrete as a building material greatly simplifies the construction of houses or other structures. Since it is easily processed, you can get by with a set of simple hand tools, some of which are quite possible to make yourself right at the construction site. This will allow both not to waste time on making a purchase, and to optimize costs. Moreover, it is not difficult to make a tool for laying aerated concrete with your own hands if you follow the instructions.

Homemade trowel for laying aerated concrete

With the help of a trowel, a solution is applied and leveled, which holds the blocks of aerated concrete together. It is a figured scoop, on the bucket of which there is a row of teeth. The width of this tool must match the size of the blocks with which it is used. This allows not only to reduce the consumption of glue, but also to make laying more accurately and faster. With the help of a trowel, the application and leveling of the solution is done in one motion.
But the trowel has a weak point - it often breaks where the handle connects to the work bucket. Moreover, such a breakdown is typical for all models, regardless of the manufacturer of the tool and its cost. This is due to the fact that in the process of applying glue to the block, you have to apply a little effort, plus the solution itself has a fairly large mass. The peak of the dynamic load occurs at the junction of the bucket and the handle, as a result, the fastening gradually loosens over time, and the handle breaks off. As a rule, this happens after a month or two of intensive use of the tool.

The technology for making the trowel yourself is quite simple, as a rule, all the tools necessary for this are always on the construction site. First of all, you will need to make a bucket template out of paper (it must be laid out on a plane) and transfer it to a piece of sheet steel. After that, the workpiece is cut out, then, using a mallet, the ladle is bent properly on the anvil. Welding is used to fasten the seams. To cut the teeth that cover the working edge, you can use the grinder.

To ensure reliable fastening of the handle, its wooden base must be drilled through the length through. A steel bar of appropriate thickness is inserted into the hole formed. One end of the rod must be riveted in such a way that a “hat” is formed. The back side of the bucket is drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the handle. A rod is inserted into the hole formed so that the “hat” completely covers it. On the opposite side of the bar, thread should be cut, then put on a wooden base and fix it with a nut. After that, the tool is ready to work.

Important! Do not forget to place a lock washer under the nut, this will significantly increase the reliability of the connection.
With certain skills, making a homemade trowel will take about half an hour, which is much less than finding a tool of the required size in specialized stores, not to mention the cash costs.

Do-it-yourself planer for aerated concrete

Using a planer, the protruding parts of aerated concrete blocks are leveled. It is a wooden board, to one of the planes of which a handle is attached, on the opposite plane from it, at an angle, are working elements made of several segments of a hard alloy saw. There are ten such elements in total (five pieces on each edge).

Such a tool needs to be “felt”, otherwise it will be difficult to maintain one level for the entire “driving”, because if more than necessary is removed from the block, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. The only way out is to take another block instead of the damaged one. Note that a factory-made tool does not guarantee the quality of processing, it all depends on experience. Many craftsmen prefer homemade planers, because it is easier to adapt to such a tool.

To make a planer, you will need to prepare the following materials:

thick board (preferably "fifty");
a pen, it can be taken from a broken tool or made from a wooden block;
glue that allows you to glue metal and wood together, you can use "Moment" or any other with similar properties;
fragments of a fine-toothed saw blade consisting of several segments.

When all the materials are ready, you can start assembling the tool, it is performed according to the following algorithm:

cuts must be made along the edges of the board (five pieces on each side). They must be made at an angle of about 70 ° relative to the longitudinal axis;
the saw blade or its fragments must be broken into pieces of suitable length, and then inserted into the sawn grooves, after applying glue to the parts to be joined;
after the glue dries, the planer will be ready for use.

It is recommended to make a special device for the planer that limits the layer to be removed from aerated concrete blocks. This will require two boards with a thickness of 20 to 30mm. They are fastened crosswise with two rails so that they form an opening equal to the thickness of the block (respectively, height or length, if other sides are processed).

Do-it-yourself manual wall chaser for aerated concrete

This tool is used in cases where it is necessary to cut strobes in aerated concrete blocks (for example, to strengthen the structure, the masonry is reinforced with reinforcement).

Handheld wall chasers can have a curved or straight handle shape. Both are equipped with holders for two hands, which is very convenient, since this design allows you to evenly distribute the pressure in the process of cutting through the strobe. Thanks to the presence of such a tool, the work is done with high accuracy and quite quickly. Considering that a manual wall chaser is easy to make on your own, it does not make sense to spend 300-500 rubles on its purchase.

To manufacture, you will need a half-inch metal water pipe about one meter or more long and a small piece of sheet steel.

Now let's move on to the list of necessary tools, we need:

metal welding machine;
angle grinder, as well as a cutting wheel for metal to it;
sledgehammer (the more, the better);
an anvil or workbench equipped with a vise.

Almost all the necessary tools, as a rule, are on the construction site. Now let's move on to the process of making a manual wall chaser. This work includes the following steps:

With the help of a grinder, the pipe is cut so that its length is from 70 to 80 centimeters;
Using a sledgehammer, we bend one of the ends of the pipe at an angle of 90 °;
We bend a small steel plate in such a way as to get a u-shaped bracket, it will play the role of a cutter;
Using a grinder, we sharpen the cutter, after which we weld it to the pipe (to its straight part);
From cutting the pipe we make a handle 12 to 15 centimeters long and weld it to the frame of the wall chaser, after which the tool can be used in work.

Among the new progressive materials used in construction, aerated concrete can be distinguished. It is an aqueous mixture of quartz sand, cement, lime and aluminum powder, which forms, as a result of autoclaving, a porous monolithic material. Aerated concrete is lightweight, durable and easy to handle. To work with it, you only need skills in conducting construction work and special equipment.

The Wall-Block company offers a complete set of tools necessary for aerated concrete work. These include:

● Tools for marking and cutting;

●Devices for applying the adhesive mixture;

● Leveling tool for masonry;

●Devices for laying communications.

Seven times measure cut once.

When laying aerated concrete blocks, it will be necessary to “adjust” them to the required dimensions. In order for the structure to turn out neat and comply with the project and building codes, a special hacksaw is needed, with victorious soldering on the teeth. A conventional tool will also cope with aerated concrete, but will quickly become dull and wear out. Even a special tool will have to be changed after processing 25 cubic meters. aerated concrete.

In marking before cutting, a metal square will be the best helper.

Smooth, solid, neat

Fastening of aerated concrete blocks is carried out with a special adhesive. Before applying it, the surfaces to be glued should be leveled. For these purposes, a planer for aerated concrete (grater) is needed. Outwardly, this tool resembles a plaster trowel. Its lower surface is equipped with strong inclined metal elements (teeth) that can cope with aerated concrete blocks, make their surface smooth and level the height at the joints.

We fasten "for centuries"

Applying an adhesive layer is a process that requires special care and skill. It is from the correct conduct of these works that the strength and reliability of fastening the masonry elements will depend. A ladle-trowel is used to apply a thin adhesive layer. It is a container with a handle, the working edge of which has a serrated configuration. "Teeth" with a height of 3-5 mm ensure the uniformity of the applied layer of glue. The width of the bucket is equal to the width of the block and is 100, 200 or 300 mm.

When working with large straight sections, a professional version of the trowel is used - the glue carriage. It will provide a stable dosage of the solution, the uniformity of its distribution over the surface.

All the comforts of home

After the masonry is completed, the next stage of work begins - the laying of communications. A wall chaser will help to accurately cut grooves in blocks for electrical wiring, fittings, pipes, etc. It can be either manual (cutter), for small amounts of work, or electric. A drill is used to drill holes in aerated concrete walls.

Faithful Helpers

If you approach the construction of cinder blocks, you should seriously purchase an additional tool that facilitates the work and improves its quality. This category includes:

Level - a device for controlling the leveling of surfaces;

Rubber mallet - for tighter fixation of blocks, alignment of masonry without damage,

Here you can buy any tools for aerated concrete of good quality and at affordable prices. We work only with proven manufacturers and guarantee the quality of products. Thanks to special tools for working with aerated concrete, your new home will be warm, reliable and cozy.

In this review of building tools, we will consider only those that are needed for laying aerated concrete. We will not consider other necessary tools, such as a hammer, grinder, electric jigsaw, puncher, concrete mixer and others.

The most necessary tools for laying aerated concrete blocks:

Now let's look at each of these tools in more detail.

Carriage

Carriage for aerated concrete is the most convenient tool in our review. Work with it goes very quickly, and the thickness of the seam is as uniform as possible. In the process of work, the carriage is filled with masonry glue, and led along a row of gas-block, the glue is evenly distributed along the jagged edge of the carriage.

Carriages come in different sizes, and these sizes are created specifically for gas blocks.

Overview of tools for laying gas blocks

Conventional trowel and notched trowel

You can use the usual building trowel and notched trowel . Apply glue with a trowel, level with a spatula. Such a pair can handle both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The disadvantages of these tools is that it becomes more difficult to regulate the thickness of the adhesive, and this thickness depends on the inclination of the spatula, the greater the inclination, the thinner the layer. Keep the spatula will always need to be at the same angle.

Bucket with teeth

Bucket with teeth makes it possible to apply a uniform layer of glue in any direction, an aerated concrete bucket costs about half the price of a carriage (about 500 rubles).

If there are irregularities on the blocks, or the height of the blocks differs by a couple of millimeters, then in such cases it will be convenient to use grater for aerated concrete , which will even out the unevenness. Thus, the laying of the next row of blocks will be simpler and of better quality.

Also, with a grater, you can level the horizontal plane of the walls, which simplifies the interior and exterior decoration of the house.

wall chaser

wall chaser for aerated concrete - a tool for creating recesses (grooves) in blocks into which fittings, electrical wiring and other internal communications fit.

Hacksaw

During construction, aerated concrete blocks will need to be cut many times in order to get smaller additional elements. For these purposes, you will need a hacksaw with large teeth.

square

For the most accurate cutting of aerated concrete at a right angle, use a special metal square .

Rubber mallet

In order for the thickness of the adhesive joint between the aerated concrete blocks to be the same, and for the block to stand exactly at the building level, the blocks must be leveled by tapping them with a rubber mallet (mallet).

Device for more convenient transfer of gas blocks. It becomes especially useful when laying wide (300-400 mm) and heavy (D600 and above) blocks.

If it is necessary to make holes in aerated concrete for fasteners, for example, for anchors or dowels, then it is necessary to use impactless tools so as not to destroy the already fragile material.

It is better not to use a hammer drill, a conventional drill or screwdriver will be enough.

In aerated concrete masonry, construction cord is used mainly for laying the first row of blocks. Two blocks are laid and leveled on the foundation at the corners of the house, after which a building cord is stretched between them, along which further laying of this row will be made.

A high-precision electronic device that emits two lasers, one strictly vertically, the other strictly horizontally. Levels differ among themselves in accuracy classes and laser power.

The more powerful the laser beam, the better it can be seen, especially on a clear sunny day. In general, the level helps to build planes at right angles.

Building level

Just an indispensable tool, without which no construction site can do. Building levels are mechanical (bubble), and electronic. Different levels differ from each other in terms of accuracy. Often, the more expensive the level, the more accurately it shows. For laying aerated concrete, models of levels of the middle and low price range are quite suitable.

The optimal length of the building level for masonry is 80 cm. But it is not always convenient to use a long level, there are situations, especially inside the house, when a short level (40 cm) would be preferable.

Of the specific manufacturers of building levels, we would advise Kapro . These levels do not need to be rechecked and calibrated, the accuracy is excellent.

Building a house from aerated concrete blocks is faster than building a house from bricks. In order for the material to retain its heat-insulating properties, the thickness of the seam between the masonry elements is reduced to 2–5 mm. With the right glue and application tool, you can save time and nerves. In the article we will tell you what and when it is better to use, and whether there is a difference between the quality of specialized and universal equipment.

Tool overview

1. How to cut?

To cut blocks, you need a sharp hacksaw with a fine tooth. There are special saws for aerated concrete. They are thicker than other types in order to cut high-strength elements, however, builders also use non-specialized saws, as long as they are sharp and soldered on the teeth. It is faster and more convenient to cut with a reciprocating or band saw. They cost starting from 10 thousand rubles. Mark the gas blocks or cut them with a square so as not to spoil the geometry. The square can be soldered independently.

It is necessary to lay strobes for communications and fittings with a special cutter. They are manual and electric. If you want to save money, you can attach a second disk to the grinder, which would remove dust during operation.

2. How to apply glue?

For glue, use a trowel one block wide with cloves. Aerated concrete manufacturers such as Aerok, H+H and Yitong produce it according to the size of their products. But scooping glue with a wide tool is inconvenient. The trowel is easy to break, so it is better to buy a spare one so as not to interrupt construction at the wrong time.

If these companies are not represented in your area, finding a suitable trowel can be a problem, but it is easy to find templates on the Internet to make it yourself from a sheet of metal or attach a grater to a scooping bucket. Some articles suggest using a trowel instead of a notched trowel, but if you have little laying experience, this will waste the adhesive. To increase the speed of work on straight sections, it is convenient to use the carriage. Its size should match the width of the blocks to create a thin seam.

3. How to equal the wall?

The edges of aerated concrete blocks must be smooth and even. To do this, use a grinding board, if the flaws are minor, and planers for concrete, in more serious cases. Products with good geometry do not need much adjustment, so choosing a quality building material will simplify all the work. To increase the speed, use a grinder. You can tightly fit one block to another with a rubber mallet. A metal hammer will damage the wall, although there is also a way out - pick up a rubber nozzle.

4. How to measure?

Do not forget to check the evenness by level and building cord after each laid block. After 10-20 minutes, depending on the glue, it will be difficult to change the situation. It is especially important to correctly lay the first row.

5. What to lift?

If you have blocks without special handles, it is inconvenient to lay them evenly in a row, so large aerated concrete manufacturers sell grippers for different sizes.

List of tools:

trowel, carriage, spatula;
hand saw for aerated concrete or electric saw;
square;
wall chaser;
level and rope.

In addition to the main set, you will need:

brush for cleaning blocks from dust before laying;
pencil;
bucket, mixer or drill with a nozzle for stirring glue.

When choosing equipment, you need to take into account the period of time (it is better to lay blocks in the summer, in clear weather) and the number of workers. In one season, it is difficult to build a box of a two-story house with hand tools if you do not work all day. Electric saws, a grinder increase the rate of construction at times.

Not everyone will be able to make a quality tool with their own hands, so if you have the opportunity to purchase everything in a store, you should not neglect it.

Price

The table shows average prices as of the beginning of 2016. The data was collected on the websites of official suppliers and large construction stores in Russia.

The prices for Ytong, H+H, Aeroc aerated concrete masonry tools do not always differ from other manufacturers, but their products are ideal for working with blocks. In order for the wall of cellular concrete to be even, durable and warm, it is necessary to make a thin seam. Working with special tools is easier and faster, do not be lazy to purchase them. Most companies that produce gas blocks offer everything for the job, so when ordering material, think in advance what you need for masonry. The use of home-made and universal construction devices is not prohibited, but all equipment must comply with the technological parameters.